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Work in Progress, "Classy Basing!" Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin:
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>Darren Latham's 20 top tips for miniature painting success
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERXNObqeNb8

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

>Previous Threads:
>>93108901
>>93086095
>>93067410
>>93050009
>>
What best fill gaps? Thank you much
>>
i was so excited for melted marine op
>>
>>93128123
milliput or sprue goo
>>
>>93128124
>melted marine
I feel like shit for starting the annealing discussion that lead to an anon basically murdering a white metal model for science.
>>
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Threw together some Sisters of Silence with flamers in blender to look a little more like the Excrutiatus Cadre in Sam Wood's old Hands of the Emperor art.
Was originally going to print off just the one as a proof of concept and go back in to tweak them further if the print worked out, but I'm happy enough with how they look in scale.
I think the bodies and legs were Diverging Realm, the arms and topknots were generic noname proxies, fuel tanks were stolen off of a Heresy Lab mini, and the head and flamer were scans of some Admech unit, then all modified here or there to better look the part and play well with eachother.
Not a 100% match to the art but reads well enough and give slightly fewer leather gimp fetish vibes.
Also fuck you jannie and the nigger you rode in on.
>>
>>93128146
What, why? He obviously didn't care that much about the model and we did learn a thing or two. I'd say it's a moderate success
>>
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>>93128146
I've melted a few that I had duplicates of here and there to see how much the properties of Citadel's material differed from some of the stuff I worked with. It was an interesting learning experiment. "CM1" and "CM3" were two different types of casting metal I got from some company I can't remember.
>>
>Non metallic metal is/isn't based
>spray cans aren't/are primer
>drill your barrels
>X colour is actually Y colour
>you missed a gap/moldline
>looking a little thick there
>wet palettes are under/overrated
>X brand is overpriced/for paypigs

Am I missing anything from the list of /wip/ meltdown topics or can we just have a civil thread for once
>>
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>>93128248
>last 2 or 3 threads were pretty much fine
>post every drama that ever happens here so at least one faggot will get triggered
great job you absolute retard
>>
>>93128248
Nothing will match 40k vents vs knees melty.
>>
>>93128248
how about everyone posts pics of what your working on then noone comments at all about them, really makes me love this place when that happens
>>
>>93128280
Don't expect people to comment on mediocre shit, ask for feedback and people will definetely reply.
If you want a hugbox post this stuff on reddit. I'm not even saying this in a derogatory way because it can help you stay motivated
>>
>>93128280
i disagree
i find that positive and negative feedback help motivate me more than none at all
>>
>>93128248
You forgot youtubers.
>>
>>93128248
paints are (non)toxic
You can(not) airbrush without a mask
Vallejo makes (no) bubbles
>>
>>93128095
How the fuck do you expect people to deal with gaps before they exist?
>>
>>93128545
I think what he means is that when you dry-fit two (or more, I suppose) parts of a model together, you might be able to see situations that would result in a gap, and try to take measures to alleviate this.

I sure hope that's what he means. Otherwise, I'm with you.
>>
Posting again because I did not see the new thread

I have some old citadel brushes but I think it's time that I get some new painting supplies. The only other brand I know of is Windsor and Newton series 7, which are too expensive to get a whole range of. What brushes would you guys recommend?
>>
>>93128754
I like synthetics as the main work horses of my brush collection and use pricier citadel ones for my detail brushes
>>
>>93128754
I use a Rosemary size 3 for my detail brush
>>
What's the verdict on the new Vallejo paint range? Is the bubbling really that bad?
>>
>>93128754
I do 90% of my basecoating with watercolor brushes from Michaels, and the other 10% where precision matters plus highlighting/freehand/etc with a Raphael 8404 size 1. Monument Hobbies synthetic brush for metallics, but it's just because I have it lying around and a Michaels brush would work fine too.
>>
>>93128227
That puts me at ease. I felt bad because I felt responsible for an anon's mini's destruction on one of the few (mostly) civil places on this website.
>>
Is it possible to decant a spray paint in order to apply it with an airbrush?
Anything I should take into consideration so it doesnt explode in my face?
>>
>>93129106
Why would you want to do that? You'd need to release the pressure inside somehow but I don't know how to go about that
>>
>>93129106
Point spray can at a disposable cup, spray paint into cup, decant contents of cup into airbrush.
Don't hurt yourself figuring out the right way to hold the cup, anon.
>>
>>93129154
>Why would you want to do that?
Spray primers are noticeably stronger than regular polyurethane ones, and I dont want having to deal with a rattlecan.
>>
>>93129154
>Why would you want to do that?
If I had to guess, >>93129106 wants the colour to match perfectly, but would prefer the performance of an airbrush over a rattlecan.
>>
>>93128280
Post something interesting or ask for feedback. Then you'll get a response.
>>
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People were saying this looked a bit uninteresting and flat, so I put a really thinned down purple shade over it
>>
>>93129231
Its more the wings that look flat honestly.
>>
>>93129231
You need to take better photos before you start taking advice from people online.
>>
>>93129231
I think you could stand to take a better photo, things look flat but I think it's the picture quality

A pin wash in the wings might help, I would think a black wash would work best here. You should also clean up the red on the fingers of the wing near the bottom claw.
>>
>>93129268
huh, I thought the wings were fine, the skin was the flat part imho.
>>93129231
>>93129354 is right, try painting in a wash into the places where the membranes meet his fingers(?). Skin definetely looks more interesting now but I'd go for a round of highlights. You said you were drybrushing so do that, only remove more paint than usual and moisten the brush just a teeny tiny bit. Focus on upward facing surfaces. Try taking a better picture, too. like this >>93129327 points out, even putting a white sheet behind your mini and putting a light in front of it will make it a lot clearer so it will be easier to give feedback. How long have you been painting for?
>>
Besides an aquarium focused store, where could I get slate rocks sized for basing miniatures?
Without stealing them of course.
>>
>>93129726
fine arts supply?
No idea how its called properly in english, but there are stores where mostly women go to buy small decoration things to craft
>>
>>93129746
An arts and crafts store might work.
Thank you anon!
>>
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>>93129268
>>93129327
>>93129354
>>93129439
I'll take that all into account, thank you anons, I've been painting for a few months now, I think, mostly undead like this, people usually only praise my stuff, so criticism like this helps, old photo for reference on what I've done so far mostly
>>
>>93129726
>where could I get slate rocks sized for basing miniatures?
>Without stealing them of course.
You can get roof shingles and whatnot. Add a hammer to that and you get any size you want. You can also get small chips specifically for basing.

I'll say though that I would highly recommend using pine bark/mulch/plaster or resin casts over actual stones. Some people also just sandwich layers of different putties over each other and break that appart to get the look. If you ever want to pin a mini to a base you'll have a tough time with actual rocks. And because it's slate you might succeed in gluing something to the top layer, but that can come off.
>>
>>93129816
I forgot to mention, but the red spots on the wingarms were on purpose as bloodstains, I wanted him to look pretty bloody
>>
Anybody here mix inks with metallic medium? Does it work in creating unnaturally coloured metallic paints?
>>
>>93129726
Go outside and look at the ground some time. You'll find plenty of rock analogs and receive free vitamin d at the same time
>>
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>when your pile of shame looks like a fucking flgs

Does anyone else keep buying boxes because they think this will be the one that gets them interested enough to actually sit down and fully paint an army?
>>
>>93129834
Understandable, but instead of bloody it just kinda looks like you colored outside the lines. These also could use some washes or similar.
>>
>>93130135
No. I have a list of projects and I buy what I need for those projects a bit ahead of time, as I come across cheap 2nd hands.
>>
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I am the stud meister. My studs will be the perfect size. I have achieved hobby nirvana.
>>
>>93130135
A couple of those are boxed games so that's fine but I can't understand people that have mountains of unopened, unassembled minis. Like I have a sizable pile of shame but every single mini has been assembled and primed at the minimum.
>>
>>93130135
Any time a brand new kit comes out that I can imagine wanting to use in the next decade I buy. That way I have less mold lines to fuss with. But I have also gotten burned by fomo (or lack there of) so I plan out an entire army project at a time.
>>
>>93130135
Nope, I actually enjoy painting. I still have a small-ish pile of shame, like 10 boxes but that's because of TK fomo and the fact that I paint really slow. I haven't bought a kit in the past 3 months to work on what I have
>>
>>93130135
Consoomer brain rot
>>
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We're all in agreement that priming black is a meme and neutral greys, off-whites and even white are all superior undercoats, right?
>>
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Should i go for the bright or muted rocks?
>>
>>93130135
>that pic
Actual mental illness. I have 2 projects and a couple single minis that I will work on depending on my mood. I've planned out my next projects and will start looking at buying a box or two at a time/reassessing if I still want them when I get to painting the last of the current project so I don't keep a big backlog. The way I like to work is I'll build my minis and bases for the next minis while my current ones are drying, so when I break out the airbrush to varnish the finished minis I can prime the new ones at same time. Also gives me something to do while waiting for paint/varnish on transfers/glue etc. to dry on one project so I always have something I can work on.
>>
>>93130336
Always depends on what color you're going to paint on top. No sense priming in light grey or white if you're painting black.
>>
>>93130336
Zenithal over black so that the shadows that are very difficult to reach is true black is probably best.
But otherwise, working over black is a meme and is why all the fanatic army paints have white or grey added to them for coverage.
>>
Just bought a can of GW spray primer for dirt cheap because my LGS was having a super sale. Besides the price tag, is it really bad?
>>
>>93130570
>is it really bad
if it's not black, yes
>>
>>93130577
Even mechanicus gray???
>>
>>93130173
Shame that won't end in you painting more models
>>
>>93130348
Muted 100%>>93130570
Don't listen to
>>
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Back on track.
>>
>>93130601
you okay anon?
>>
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almost finished with this gal, just need to paint the bomb and detonator little screens
>>
>>93130570
As an FYI for the future, Games Workshop do not sell primers. It's just paint.
Read your can carefully, look on their website if you like, you will not find the word primer anywhere. GW's store managers have gone on record as saying that the paint formula is not a primer.
Don't let anyone try and convince you it is a primer. They're wrong, and no amount of screeching and anecdotal evidence (works on muh mini) proves otherwise.
You should always use a purpose made primer.
>>
>>93130768
oh boy here we go
you're right of course
>>
>>93130594
Imagine painting your minis and making it harder to see your conversions and custom sculpting.
>>
>>93130768
Ohhh ok. So if I prime THEN use the GW spray it'd be like a really janky airbrush?
>>
>>93130629
No i
>>
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>>93130768
> We used the Citadel Spray primer version of Macragge Blue for the Ultramarines, Grey Seer for the Apothecary Biologis, and Wraithbone for the Tyranids.
https://www.warhammer-community.com/2023/06/15/heres-how-to-batch-paint-all-72-miniatures-in-warhammer-40000-leviathan/

> a brand new bright white spray primer is coming!
https://www.warhammer-community.com/2022/06/17/10-dazzling-new-contrast-paints-and-how-to-use-them/

Also this from the 2024 "how to build metal models PDF" and the same is included in the 2024 "how to build resin models"
There are many instances of the sprays being referred to as primers you silly billy.
>>
>>93130768
Imagine being this retarded
>>
>>93130860
I'm not sure what you mean exactly by "like an airbrush", but yeah you've got the right idea.
Use a primer all over to begin with, then the rattle can afterwards to achieve your base coat colour.
The primer is there to make sure the successive paint layers stick to the mini.
Using a non-priming paint from the get-go as you would a primer won't guarantee anything the comes next is going to stick.
Sometimes you can even use your primer colour in conjunction with the base colour creatively to achieve certain effects (For example, if you bought a dark primer and a light, contrasting base coat) but that's more of a happy side effect.
>>93130907
>>93130947
Do you think someone would do that? Go on the internet and tell lies?
Meanwhile, in reality, 0 mentions of the word primer here either, lol!
https://www.warhammer.com/en-GB/shop/Macragge-Blue-Spray-UK-ROW-2020
You disingenuous little faggot shills. What's James paying you to lick his ass, or do you just do it for free?
>>
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>>93130969
Nigga I posted multiple official things saying its primer.
Do you have anything that says "this isn't primer" that is official? Not just not saying the word primer?
Any link to where these store owners apparently say it's not primer?
I don't understand how I can show you evidence and you still deny it unless you have an actual mental illness. I'm not even joking.
>>
>>93131050
To be fair primer that can peel off doesn't sound like primer
>>
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So Hank Scorpio here has a symbol on his back and I'm torn between painting it in the accent colour blue and painting it a metallic.
On the FW painted model its a dark red but that really doesn't seem fitting.
>>
>>93130135
As someone that use to have a similar looking pile trust me when I say you will feel so much better and actually have more of a drive to paint if you sell 95% of it.
>>
>>93130628
Nice scheme, clean finish. That one guy seems to have tiny head syndrome though.
>>
>>93130662
Pretty good. Having four different greens looks kinda weird though.
>>
Are techniques like slapchop or zenithal considered cheating and frowned upon the community?
>>
>>93131412
A lot of people think the name is retarded but that the technique itself is fine fir quickly getting something painted.
It can also have a chalky appearance from the drybrush step
>>
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The only primer you should use is pic related
>>
>>93131412
Are you asking if there are elitists that look down on speed painting techniques or if painters at large look down on them? Yes absolutely to the former but the average painter doesn't give a shit.
>>
>>93131432
>>93131421
Well, I want to have nice figurines and those techniques seem the easiest entrypoints for most cases, for people with shaky hands. I’m just worried that I’ll get kicked out of the club because I brought a low effort army
>>
>>93131446
That's
A)not a thing
B)laughable if you've seen the amount of gray tide at any given LGS
>>
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About to do the base for this chaos champion. Do you guys have any advice for using snow effect paint like citadel's valhallan blizzard? Should I just do my regular basing first, then apply it in clumps?
>>
Are Two Thin Coats' metallic paints good? I'm moving away from Citadel but haven't been happy with Army Painter's metals.
>>
>>93131446
Nah, some people care about painting, others about playing the games. The latter doesn't care if your army is poorly painted, the former will write you off as someone who doesn't care about painting, the end.
The only issue with the slapchop thing is that you don't really learn to paint the traditional way, so you'll be stuck doing slapchop. So it's not really a great entry point into the painting side of the hobby.
>>
A-HA! So *that's* what's supposed to be on Dante's right pauldron!
>>
>>93131500
No idea honestly. I'm sure there's tutorials on youtube. I'd just make a test base (doesn't have to be an actual base).
>>
>>93132009
Makes him look like a retarded kid who can't say his own name, so they wrote it on his shirt so the caretakers know what he responds to.
>>
>>93128248
stainless stall balls as paint agitators.
>>
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Still needs some highlights and water effects, but he's ready for the table!
>>
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i'm going to paint these using some contrast/speed paints, if anyone has some advice for me it'd be appreciated as i've never used them before.
which brand is currently king for contrast/speed paints?
is it worth me pre-shading with a wash?
do any contrast/speed paints do a decent job of emulating metal or should i stick with regular metallic paints for metal?
i tried to get a decent zenithal going here. black, brown mid tone and white on top but think i went to far with the white in a lot of cases, thoughts?
>>
>>93130487
>working over black is a meme
>Why yes, I do spend an extra hour per model painting over every nook and cranny that was primed white instead of just leaving it black from black primer, why do you ask?
>>
>>93130969
I don't have to imagine him being retarded anymore, he's showing all of us in front of our eyes
>>
>>93131066
If you read the image you'd see that if your primer peels off that they tell you to contact support hinting at the fact that it would be defective if it peels off
>>
>>93131500
>it's both dusty looking and glossy at the same time
Impressively bad
>>
>>93132613
everything works. Velvet Red by Vallejo Xpress is good, should you decide to go for the classic scheme.
AP metallic speedpaints are good and work.
>>
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Alright first attempt at resin pour is over. Lot of mistakes but learned a lot.

- didn't add enough green ink
- fucked up super gluing the barriers so there was minor seepage, basically going to go through several sticks to make sure the barrier is solid and vertical
- a few rogue bubbles
- tried sanding smooth by hand but it's tedious and difficult with a small thin surface area, one of the cases where a rotary tool sander is going to be helpful, I've ordered finer grit heads to clean it up
>>
>>93132471
What about this unpainted part
>>
>>93132613
I think you actually want to go heavier with the white as contrasts really need a bright undercoat to show up at all
>>
>>93133019
Why would you do a resin pour on fully painted models and not do a test. You paint well enough to be smarter than that
>>
>>93133014
I like gloss varnish, it makes models look old and shiny.
The dustiness is just from drybrushing, it's a good kind of dustiness.
>>
>>93132613
>i've never used them before
Honestly they're marketed at beginners/"fast and easy" but genuinely they're a pain in the ass that requires deft and timely manipulation to avoid splotch city and patience to avoid reactivation.

- whatever brand you go with, use the medium to thin them
- after first coat, go back in and pick out highlights with light grey and white, then do a 2nd
- have fun with mixing colors or different layering
>>
>>93131427
>Primer, rattlecan
I sleep
>Primer, Japan
Whooaaaa
>>
>>93133104
You are entitled to your shit taste regardless of how shitty it is.
>>
>>93133042
I tested the ink ratio but the first attempt was too green.
Errors were more with the barrier which is hokey, but I can smooth and shape it with the dremel.
>>
In the
>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
video, when he grabs the paint from the pot, is his brush dry?
>>
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Scouts be done, one of the few new space marine miniatures I actually like.
>>
>>93133268
Unless your drybrushing your brush should never be bone dry if it's touching paint
>>
>>93133280
so then how wet does it need to be? Should just the tip be damp? Should there be water stored in the belly of the brush? How much excess you wipe off before grabbing paint? How do you get a consistent dampness on your brush? When you wipe off the excess do you only wipe the tip so water stays in the belly or do you lay it flat to get that water out too?
>>
>>93133278
>hate space marines
>paint space marines
Are they for a kill team?
>>
>>93133301
Just dip your brush in your water cup, then touch it lightly to a piece of kitchen towel. You can spin your brush slightly as well to achieve a sharper tip. You don't really want water in the belly as you should thin the paint on your pallette to the consistency you need, and excess water in the belly may cause overthinning. You just want a slightly damp brush.
>>
>>93133317
how far do you dip in the water?
>>
>>93133334
Bro come on you can figure that one out, you aren't that retarded
>>
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>>93133302
Kill team and 40k, I'm now 85 marines in to my company so makes sense to finish them and just convert the goofier miniatures. I tried my best.
>>
>>93133338
m8, I ask because I can never seem to get a consistent basecoat. Everytime I start to paint a model I just have to hope I thinned correctly. Also I've noticed that duncan will load up his brush and then be able to make numerous strokes whilst I'm out of paint in 2 strokes.
>>
>>93133382
Posing is kinda wack on these but paint scheme is crispy and well done
>>
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Group shot of the army so far.
>>
>>93133383
Ask a grownup to help you at your lgs. You're doing something retarded that you also can't put into words so we can't fix it for you
>>
>>93133015
thanks for the recs
>>93133033
i guess i'll see how it turns out
>>93133112
thanks, i'll keep it in mind
>>
>>93133389
They're magnetised so it can be tweaked, though the miniatures posing is fucked as standard anyway.
>>
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Did anyone else experience this?
I test painted a couple of models with Speedpaint and most paints behaved like you'd expect.
Only Rigor Mortis, the one used on the skin, felt like it was a regular paint slightly watered down. And it isn't even greyish green like it says on the bottle, but greyish yellow.
I shook the hell out of it and even stirred the bottom with a stick, so I don't know if I did something wrong or if it's just a bad bottle.
Any ideas?
>>
>>93133391
Looks amazing, love the blue, and the face paint is fucking rad
>>
>>93133391
thought those were smurfs based on the thumbnail and was about to start calling you names
they look great man
>>
>>93133116
Mr. Hobby stuff is so incredibly good you cannot even fathom it.
>>
>>93133513
Seems like it doesnt have a strong 'contrasty' effect
https://youtu.be/PTUU9Pzvdgw?t=285
>>
>>93133391
Very nice
>>
Made some bases for the next set of DG while waiting for the replacement water effect to cure. Not great for splashes, but works far better for the surface level water I wanted.
Not sure what to do with the count as wardog, that caught too much dust. I thought I had it all cleaned off, but after the gloss varnish it was back again. Not a big fan of the effect either way, rather than getting a metal shine back, the metal just looks wet.

>>93133019
Inks aren't great for tinting resin, as alcohol based ones have poor lightfastness and acrylic ones can mess up the curing process due to being water based. Alcohol based ones can break down the resin as well, but you usually don't need that much of them.
The lip of GW bases makes them terrible for putting puoring barriers around them. Replace with straight mdf bases or similiar, so you can put the tape directly on the edge and seal it with a little bit of pva.
Unless you invest in a chamber to get rid of bubbles, there will always be some bubbles. since the Kroot are supposed to be standing in some kind of water, that should be fine.
Depending on the surface your barrier leaves on the resin, you can get away with just applying some gloss varnish to it.
>>
>>93132860
White primer is a pain to paint over but it really makes your colours pop
>>
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Almost done base coats. Loving the Magnum PI mo.
>>
>>93133671
Guess I just got the one bad bottle. Thanks for the reference.
>>
>>93133935
No I mean that specific color doesn't seem to have a strong effect as other speed paints do, not that ur pot is bad
The one in the video looks similar to yours, doesn't it
>>
Will matte varnish kill the metallic look of metallic paint?
>>
>>93132613
Check the video in the op
>>
>>93133116
There is nothing wrong with rattlecans but if you start working with Mr hobby primers you will not be able to come back
Amazing coverage, works very good with brushes and airbrush, lasts for long.
Only issue is that you have to thin it, but as long as you’re fine with that it’s golden
>>
>>93134002
Kind of, but I'd swear the screamer killer had more contrast between the raised and shallow areas.
>>
>>93134200
It will kill the shine which is the major part of the metallics look, so yes. I usually varnish before painting metallics. Or you can varnish with a mix of matt and satin, I've heard some shittubers do that. Don't know the exact ratios or even what you should exactly be going for, though
>>
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>>93134200
kinda, left is ak ultra matt airbsushed all over, right is no varnish
>>
Anyone could teach me hown to paint eyebrows, eye socket and eyes?
>>
>>93134318
left looks better, metals included
>>
almost done
>>
>>93134318
Very cool. Do you thin down the AK varnish in any way when you airbrush it, and what pressure do you use? I've got an airbrush with a 0.2 or a 0.3
>>
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>>93134405
you are not wrong, it looks good in photo, but I really like the shine in person, since is not as harsh as a photo under a lamp

>>93134569
I didn't thin it I think, I used 20psi with a .3, only did that one as a test, later on I brushed it on to avoid the metallics
>>
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>>93133852
Hey cool I'm painting the same model at the moment. Well, not exactly the same anymore I guess

>>93134309
>>93134405
I prefer right personally, but I think they're both good it just depends on what you want to convey

>>93134475
Very nice stuff
>>
>>93134651
Thanks anon
>>
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>not in stock anywhere
>stock due keeps slipping in element games

FFS, wish I'd just gone all in on fanatic or something
>>
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Oh shit, i spray too much
>>
>>93134218
>Mr hobby primers
Is it lacquer or acrylic primer?
>>
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>>93134797
>uncleaned mould line
>gaps
>>
>>93132471
Sharks?
>>
>>93133278
Very clean sir, good job. Eyes are decent as well.
>>
>>93133383
Bigger brush?
>>
>>93134935
Meds
>>
>>93134200
It will take most of the metallic shine away and dull some of the other colours. You can re-apply a few highlights to the prominent parts after varnishing. It's less of an issue if you are painting something that is supposed to look corroded and dirty.
>>
>>93134318
What's the super short scatter grass you're using? Typical static grass is too tall for my tastes.
>>
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>>93135043
its dyed sawdust
>>
>>93122603
Update
I tried to bend the whole eagle in place and snapped off the superglue'd wing. Went "screw this" and clipped off the eagle aquila.
I'm still a sad pepe right now, but I'll live.

Don't underestimate your own strength, bros.
>>
>>93131197
Four shades of green is way more cohesive than using a dark blue shadow for the red cape. Either dark green, solid black or comic book blue shadows for earth tones.
>>
>>93131446
Don't listen to those retards. Everyone will HATE you for using the slapchop method, but only because of how COOL your minis will look next to theirs. They'll seethe at the ease and speed in which you've created masterpieces whilst they toil away countless hours to achieve little more than unpainted armies.
>>
>>93134935
please leave and don't come back
>>
>>93133023
It's eshin grey with corvis black in the vents, Still needs highights like I said.
>>
>>93135128
That's a fade, not shadows. Either way, stylistic shadows can look just fine. 4 different greens together doesn't.
>>
>>93133116
Havent met a Mr. Hobby product I didnt like yet. Their plastic glue is great for putting together vehicles and terrain, the brush in the jar is a nice flat brush so you can cover big areas quickly.
>>
>>93133383
Using a wet palette?
>>
>>93135354
In your head? Or on the table. It needs a fifth green to complete the harmonic, dumbass and why would you call a blended shadow a fade? Are you black?
>>
>>93134905
Tyberos the Red Wake is from the Space Sharks (Carcharodons) chapter.
>>
>>93135405
Because it's not a shadow nitwit. That's not the placement for a shadow. Being brash doesn't make you any less wrong.
>>
>>93135431
Still 12 year old boys, each thinking "that's fucking cool."
>>
>>93135431
So the sharks are official? I don't know space marine lore.
>>
>>93135440
I'm sorry to hear about your rash but I fail to see what it has to do with your ignorance of perspective painting. Please stay on topic, Blackanon
>>
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Finally got around to painting Helbrecht
>>
>>93135431
Is there an STL for that shark beaky armor and shark backpack?
>>
>>93131103
Man i was about to say you did really well but it needs some highlights and then i spotted it
>>
>>93135517
A good start anon. Your lines are very clean. Get that man a dip wash and he will look pretty good.

My only criticism right now is that there is something uncanny going on when I look at the model. Im not 1000% on this, but I think its cause you have such warm armour tones on everything but the vibrant blue, and that yellow comes across as cold as well.
fasts
>>
>>93134935
Dude, I just want them for the colors.
Orange red fills a definite hole in the line-up and the others are great, too.

If I buy warpaints am I supporting Goobertown and Dana Howl?
>>
>>93135448
Have been for quite a while
>>
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>>93135558
2 minutes in Google

Look up Wai Toa shark riders by Atlan Forge, they have shark head backpacks, too.
>>
>>93134218
They have acrylic primers in aqueous surfacer, lacquer as finisher surfaced and colored acrylic surfacers as acrysion base color but acrysion cures very weirdly and does not work well with minis
>>
>>93135514
>perspective painting
You're just saying random terms now, give up.
>>
>>93135517
Nice medallion.
>>
>>93135900
how the FUCK didnt I notice that lmao
>>
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>>93135517
>the thing
Anon, if your life begins to unravel and your sanity begins to slip, burn that thing immediately.
>>
>>93135517
You must really hate Helbrecht, huh?
>>
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Finished
>>
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>>93136052
Also finished building my Nighlords Warlord.

the base is Haarken Worldclaimer, several 3D printed parts, the lance of the Vampire Lord on Dragon. Also because I couldn't decided I magnatized the head.
>>
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Some cute tonks i printed are waiting for a 2nd spray with the primer
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It takes me like 20 hours to paint a single marine.
>>
>>93136144
so? Is it a race?
If you have fun, all is good. If not: Get some Speedpaints.
>>
>>93136144
Lets see what those 20 hours get you then.
Im expecting display quality given the amount of hours.
>>
>>93136080
Tiddy.
Also, no helmet is always silly. Being naked with only a helmet makes more sense.
>>
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>>93136175
I'm not horrible, but I'm not 20 hours good.
>>
>>93136232
>box art style
ofc is going to take 20h doing all those highlights

it looks plenty good even if the video is foggy
>>
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Has anyone ever used that stuff?
Is it Instant paint (i.e. kinda bad contrast paint stuff) and primer in one bottle? So a primer that also shades? Or what is this supposed to do?

(just picked a random color for my screenshot because i just saw it in an online store when i was looking for spraypaint primers)
>>
>>93136250
Seems more like a contrast-like friendly coloured primer (since they cont really work over darker basecoats)
So its pretty much a bright coloured primer.
>>
>>93136281
Ah.. ofc, that would make a lot more sense. I was just confused by them naming it the same as their contrast paint range.
But you are right, i checked the other colors and its off-white, beige, light grey.. pretty sure to paint over it and not a shading primer in itself.
>>
>>93136232
You did also pick a model that has some of the higher amounts of detail among SM, so it's gonna take a bit to do well, but you get faster over time. Compare it to an intercessor, which has basically no additional detailing besides a reliquary on his belt.
From what I can see, that's also what GW would call parade ready, but you'd be fine with a base/wash/highlight if you don't want to spend too much time, it'll still look good at a reasonable distance.
>>
>>93136349
*a normal intercessor, deleted a word. No additional cloth detailing, a third of the pouches, it makes for less work to do well.
>>
>>93136080
I used to magnetize heads as well, now I got lazier and just put a tiny bit of blue tack underneath.
>>
>>93135590
Meant to respond to >>93135517 but i apparently had an aneurysm
>>
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Anybody here ever paint up sicarians in the voss prime color scheme? I'm wanting to do up a kill team in those colors and curious to see if anybody has references for how the quartering/cog trim would get applied to their models since the official reference is pretty barebones
>>
>>93136743
Don't bother with the body. Make the helmets half and half color, and the bodies only a single color.
>>
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>>93136139
Very nice tanks, anon!
And very nice prints too.

I gotta ask now. What printer, resin, and source on that gas mask knight helmet looking lad?
>>
>>93137408
Mars 4 Ultra with cheap basic Elegoo resin from amazon because i got it for 12€/liter.
The torso of that commander is from Quartermaster3D, should be some Artillery crew officer or something, i just saw it in a pile of printed bits and it looked nice in that open hatch so i used it, and the helmet is by Saint Decent. There is a big head pack by her, with several versions of those medieval helmets with gas masks, hoses etc.
>>
>>93137484
Thanks anon! I appreciate it.
>Mars 4 Ultra with cheap basic Elegoo resin
Man. The future is now.
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>>93136232
Do you paint in subassemblies?
>>
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>>93136743
Applying the source material to the Princep answers most of the questions I would have. Would recommend a solid color for the helms, though. Maybe a different color if some have a different loadout.
>>
>>93137484
Have you gamed with it yet? How does the resin hold up?
>>
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>>93133781
Hit him with some satin varnish then redid the lazy OSL. He is also the coloursheme test model for my Chaos Knights, but the sheme is so well trodden, it was really only the way I do it. Sadly it took over a year working on him on and off, so I forgot most of what I did.
>>
>>93133781
Also better pictures of my DG test models.
>>
>>93134708
Nice mods, terminator chaplain?
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>>93137791
Never had issues with that particular resin, but i'm gentle with my stuff either way. Probably those tanks wont survive a drop from a table without some bits breaking off.
>>
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>>93134708
Based Terimie Chaplain enjoyer
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>>93137912
Yeah, can't have a l*******n with my Templars

>>93137984
oh cool! Is yours gonna be a BT too? I actually put the chains on mine as well in its final iteration, and I removed the tubes under his arms. Matter of fact, I'm pretty much done with the painting.

Except after I spent most of the afternoon painstakingly painting the helmet, I tried to fix a little mistake on it as a final touch and the fix turned into a disaster that forced me to strip it, rip
>>
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Sure I could continue working on my backlog instead but building more minis is just so much fun.
>>
>>93135891
Wait, don't tell me. You didn't know orange is actually just red and green? What a godforsaken island. Probably the least cultured on earth.
>>
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>>93138316
Yeah he even ended up as a chaplain for the same reason.
I have run out of BT legal chaplains to collect anyway, so making my own was fun.
Yours looks great and I have saved it to my inspo folder to maybe steal ideas from and I look forward to seeing it painted up
>>
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Fanatic paints are a meme.

>oh the coverage is so much better
Yeah, because it's full of white or grey pigment.
Look at the old "pure red" versus the new one.
>>
>>93138416
Island?
>>
Need good 28mm desert base ideas for some Footsore Miniatures.
>>
>>93138421
That's a whole lot of chaplains...ever thought to branch out? There were some nice BA ones, and I think I remember one salamanders guy with crozius and power fist.
>>
>>93138472
sand
>>
>>93138474
I have an old metal BA one ready to paint somewhere and i'd like Lemartes.
I will probably pick all of them up at some point but the desire was mostly fulfilled once i got the last 2nd edition one painted.
>>
>>93138421
You must really like chaplains, then again, who doesn't. And they fit BT so well.

Thanks, I'll have to repaint the head and then it's pretty much done, base aside. Hopefully I'll get it done before monday. I'm a bit bummed out cause the helmet turned out exactly how I wanted it to be before having to strip it, and I'm not looking forward to those 100 "press shift to hold your breath" moments I went through to paint the eye sockets and teeth
>>
>>93138438
I’m looking to move away from citadel and I was wondering how fanatic held up. I have some old valllejo which are good but haven’t used them since the takeover. Are they at least better than GW shit?
>>
Thinking about buying picrel, drilling out their faces and G'stuffing little skulls in there. Will have to get some proper GW skelle shields and helmets, because I love the wing motiffs and horned helms.

>>93135069
Oh, neat.
>>
Anyone have the Grimdark compendium uploads? fuck that homo for putting content he already had on YouTube behind a paywall
>>
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I'm doing some tactical teams for another game right now, trying new stuff
>>
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Working on some Necrons as well
>>
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>>93138990
I'm doing something adjacent with my GW Brets - some head swaps for old style zombie heads, some kitbashing to change head or helmet angles. I nearly have another 40 zombies for the horde.
>>
>>93138952
Most brands are similar in quality, including GW. They just suck because they charge double.
>>
>>93139224
Neat. I guess anything can be zombies.
>>
>>93139224
Oh nice.

Honestly one of the things putting me off re-purposing perry mini's as Skelle's is the assumption that they would be a Mousillon army.

Might just wait for GW to re-release the old 8th ed skeleton warriors.
>>
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Oh I am liking this so far
Tomorrow I might put some rust and moss on it, lightly
>>
What is a good burnt umber paint?
>>
>>93139637
Mummy brown by C. Roberson
>>
>>93137836
that's pretty damn cool
>>
Any ork playing fellas mind sharing their skin recipes? I got my hands on some commandos and would like to give them a whirl.
>>
I finally got around to making photo instructions and doing 9 chapter recolors for the derpy papercraft primaris space marine inceptors.
>>
>>93140386
Here's all the derpy papercraft Primaris marines I've made templates for so far. I need more vehicles but I don't know if I'm going to take the time to make my own templates for them or just use Patoroch's existing templates recolored.
>>
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>>93140529
Forgot to attach the pic
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>>93140560
Anon these are so charming.
If this is what you brought to the LGS to proxy an army you weren't sure about buying, I'd love to play against it.
>>
>>93140560
The redemptor has always been my favorite model you did. Super impressive
>>
>>93138952
My recent experience is that GW is higher quality than vallejo after the takeover. You do need to pay attention to the base/layer thing to an extent, the latter is more translucent which you need to take into account. I think that trips people up sometimes as the ranges are noticeably different.

GW are overpriced but really unless you're doing massive amounts of minis it's not a huge deal.
>>
>>93141326
You're a fucking retard.
No I won't elaborate because your retardation is so patent that requires no explanation.
>>
>>93141605
Minis or gtfo, mister weirdly nonspecific painting guru.
>>
>>93139240
>>93141326
Do we get gw shills even here or what? At this point citadel is the only major brand that has borderline unusable paints and the most duds out of any range. All that could've been forgiven if they priced their shit like everyone else and they came in droppers but you pay more money for less paint in those godforsaken pots. There's 0 reason to use them once you move past being a complete beginner
>>
Anyone tried that cyan basecoat for contrast paints
>>
>>93141754
>At this point citadel is the only major brand that has borderline unusable paints and the most duds out of any range
I'd say that's army painter by a long shot personally
Gw really do need to change their pots though
>>
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>>93139517
Oh I like this a lot
Time to put Scorpio together
>>
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>>93136232
>poo on the thumbnail
yeah i get tricky farts too when i paint
thumb plugging really is the best way to stop a shart
at least you didnt grimshart over your nice looking minis
>20hours
the only way i could think of cutting out time is >precise dry-brushing your highlights
>3D printing your stencils
>using a tamiya panel liner of whatever colour(s) you'd like for the recesses
other than that it feels average/fast to me for the high quality you have
>>
>>93136232
>20 hours
>for that
>its not even based
anon...
>>
>>93142274
well if he tried to autistically get the edge highlights as thin as he could I can KINDA imagine this taking that long? I dunno that marine is not even that detailed
>>
>>93141754
Don't get me wrong - the metallics are absolute dogshit, they don't have a pure black or a pure white and the pots are intentionally crap. But the regular acrylics are as good as any other and better than some.
>>
>>93142315
You forgot that their off-whites/creams/bright colors in general are at this point the worst out of all major brands. The colors they get right like reds, greens, blues(and even then it's not all of them) others do just as good or better. AP was the only one you could put behind them but it seems like they caught up with fanatic
>>
>>93142334
I quite like their off whites, Corax White has served me well.
>>
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>>93142355
>>
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Been working on a concept for a small group of My Dudes for a while. No plans for a full army, just a bit of story building with a friend and some models to represent it for fun.

Finished them all yesterday except for the swirling galaxy emblem on their left shoulder pad.

>At the very edge of the Imperium far from any regular supply routes, an inquisitor looked out at the emptiness beyond the galaxy and thought "We have no idea of what's out there". So he secretly founded a small chapter of space marines called Protectores Nihil, "Guardians of nothing", to monitor the fringe worlds, scrying the empty void for potential threats.

>Due to the remoteness these space marines are forced to do their own repairs, sometimes incorporating worn out practice gear into their battle armour when supplies are low.
>>
>>93142334
Can you recommend a better color match for Celestra Grey in particular than Celestra Grey itself, since you mentioned off whites? I've got enough already painted that a different shade will stand out.
>>
>>93142126
Is that the base for the one Dark-mec character?
>>
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>>93142380
>Specialist guys get premium treatment and do not need to use worn out parts in their armour
>>
>>93142381
vmc light sea grey
>>
>>93142381
>>93142397
AK medium sea grey also looks fairly close
>>
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>>93142380
>>93142387

>Current chapter master
>Former chapter master still in business on his backpack
>>
>>93133513
Earlier releases of speedpaint had this issue if they got to dry. You can fix it by adding some speedpaint medium or a little water in my experience.

>>93131412
>>93131446
A way to avoid the chalky effect is to dampen the brush you use just a little bit and use slightly more paint than normal drybrushing.


Does anyone know if army painter black primer is good? My hobby shop near me seems to be switching over to that and I haven't really used any of their primers outside of the matte coat and the white primer before.
>>
>>93142426
Armpainter sprays are fine but like GW way too expensive for the small bump in quality over bogstandard primer imo
>>
>>93141754
>Do we get gw shills even here or what?
No, I'm realistic instead of blinded by fury.
>>
>>93142126
Looks nice anon.
>>
>>93142380
Nice fanfic, but in the end they just look like slightly worn space marines.
>>
>>93142491
>people will even shit on /yourguys/ now
we've really reached the bottom of the barrel, eh
>>
>>93142517
Yourdudes are not automatically good. Space marines are boring, the story is whatever, the paint job is pretty good but simple.
>>
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I am currently working through my Kingdom Death backlog and find myself in need of industrial quantities of stone face base inserts. For my favorite of these figures I'll follow traditional basing approaches, but for the majority of the survivor figures in particular I'm honestly fine using a 'standard' predefined base just to make sure they fit in with the rest of the board.

I've been casting these out of milliput with heat activated molds (forget the company name, the packaging is Japanese and the raw material for the molds look like bits of candy), but it's got some problems. It takes an immense amount of pressure to get the milliput into the mold with sufficient detail, and that pressure is destroying the mold boxes I'm trying to use -- every five or six casts the thing becomes so bent I have to throw it out and find a new one. It's also a lot of work to get it all set up and ready and I can only do ~1 per 24h.

My other options appear to be:

>Resin Casting
Pros:
>Once you have the mold set up should be fire and forget
>Can make as many per batch as I configure the mold for
Cons:
>Have to make the mold as well, could be challenging
>Have to handle serious chemicals every batch

>FDM 3d Printer
Pros:
>Should be the least fuss out of all options
>Wouldn't mind having an FDM printer to print household objects
Cons:
>Up front cost is around $250 after printer and equipment
>Print lines will be pretty obvious -- can they be hidden? Probably not.

>Resin 3d Printer
Pros:
>Best quality of all 4 options
>Best throughput of all 4 options -- can print an entire plate of bases in ~1 hr
>Can use the printer to print bits and other minis
Cons:
>Highest up front cost of all options, at least $400 after all equipment accounted for
>Have to find a way to ventilate the printer
>Allegedly a bit user unfriendly with how many fiddly bits there are

Thoughts? I need hundreds of these, so buying the packs isn't really an option, want some way to be self sufficient producing them.
>>
>>93142475
I don't know which of those you are but
>Most brands are similar in quality, including GW
not true
>GW is higher quality than vallejo after the takeover
not true
>>
>>93142594
The former, and yes they are. All brands have duds, all brands have good colors, some of it is subjective as well. I don't buy GW paints (overpriced), but if you're gonna claim they have more duds, you're gonna have to prove it.
>>
>>93142588
Man I wish kdm actually made more MONSTERS. Going through their catlogue and its like 20-1 Booba to monsters blows. I dont hate sexy minis but I do enjoy most of their monster designs so to see so few is lame.

As for your question Idk. Ide say one of the 3d printing options at the end of the day they are bases so they dont have to be perfect. Alot of sins can be hidden with texture pastes/etc
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>>93142588
Perhaps there's easier materials than miliput? I woudn't know, but it seems like the easy solution.
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>>93142625
I'm guessing it's a sales thing. If your booba sell 20-1 compared to your monsters, you make booba.
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>>93142491
That's pretty much the point though
>>
>>93142616
>abaddon black
>corax white
>rakarth flesh
>wraithbone
>screaming skull
>ushabti bone
>ulthuan grey
>pallid wych flesh
>dorn yellow
>flash gitz yellow
>fire dragon bright
>most metallics, stormhost silver being the biggest offender out of the ones I owned
All of those are subpar paints. You can get similar colors from other brands that aren't shit. Those are the only ones that I actually own, I'm pretty sure there are more
>>
So much of an actual difference does gloss varnish makes for applying shit like tamiya panel liner? I'd kind of prefer just spray the matt I actually want instead of doing so many layers of varnish
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>>93142426
>You can fix it by adding some speedpaint medium or a little water in my experience.
I tried adding water and even strong tone on two different occasions and it still didn't work. I'll try applying it over a white surface, but I'm probably going to have to buy a different paint.
>>
>>93142654
And other brands don't have a similar amount of duds?
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>>93142703
out of the ones I've used(Vallejo, TTC, AK), not even close
>>
>>93142382
Yeah, that's him.
>>93142479
Thanks a lot anon
>>
>>93142654
I use Fire Dragon Bright fairly often and it's perfectly fine for my purposes (the highest point of highlights on red). Same with Uluthuan Grey, it's not the best off white ever but it's fine. Rakarth Flesh isn't great but I have yet to find another brand that does better at that shade.
Their yellows absolutely are terrible though, no contest.
>>
>>93142691
Wait, are you not using a white or light grey surface? You generally need to use a white or light grey primer to have the contrast or speed paints work well. You can get away using other light color base coats as well for certain effects, but white and light grey are the standard.
>>
>>93142654
What's the best Rakarth Flesh alternative?
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>>93142819
One had a black prime with drybrushed grey and white. The other was a medium grey with a white drybrush.
The rest of the paints applied without too much trouble, like the orange on the clothes and brown on the horns. That's why I got hung up on Rigor Mortis.
I applied it to white and while it does look better, it still feels like a regular acrylic slightly watered down.
>>
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I feel bad about the idea of weathering him, even if it would make him fit with the rest of my force better.
A little cleanup to do on the helmet faceplate, I think, and then it's either weathering or calling him done.
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>>93142965
At least some chipping on the clean panels would go a long way
>>
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How is my "texture palette"?
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>>93143007
What is this supposed to be for?
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>>93143017
Dry brushing shit
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>>93143007
Looks like it'll probably work, especially if you prime it so it has a little more texture.
>>
>>93128545
>>93128636
NTA but if you're pinning a model you can do the ol' "Greenstuff sandwich" technique.
IMO it's only worth it for big metal models and I'm in the thinned milliput camp, but it's a technique.
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>>93138470
Oh sorry, I meant Isle
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>>93142885
TTC Griffon Claw, AK Decomposed Flesh also looks pretty close but I don't have it
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>>93143249
Thanks anon, I'll try them both out.
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>>93143249
>TTC
Overpriced eceleb paint is your alternative?
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>>93143309
Yes, because it's actually a good paint. I don't mind paying a dollar more for a bottle if that's the case. I'm sorry you have to watch your finances so much that poses a problem for you, anon.
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>>93142588
Are you thinning the milliput? I can't imagine it would be too troublesome in a more liquid state but I don't have any experience with casting.
You could also paint FDM with very thinned milliput to fill the print lines.
https://www.planetfigure.com/threads/problems-with-milliput-wash.58353/
>>
>>93143309
>overpriced
>eceleb
neither of these are applicable :)
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>>93143321
Alright whale.

>>93143355
Denial. I get that he's your paint daddy or whatever, but get off his cock.
>>
>>93143309
>>93143366
My brother you're in a thread about painting the most overpriced toy soldiers on the planet, you must be utterly retarded to make a big deal out of paint prices
>>
>>93143373
>you must be utterly retarded to make a big deal out of paint prices
Have you missed literally every single discussion on Citadel paints?
>>
>>93128248
>X brand is overpriced/for paypigs
See >>93143355 >>93143366 >>93143373
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>>93143393
there's a difference between discussing price and mocking citadel for selling an inferior product in abysmal containers for twice the price
>>
>>93143393
Only reason Citadel gets shit is because it's more expensive while being worse.
>>
>>93143400
>>93143407
I genuinely don't see it. I have never had an issue with Citadel paints that wasn't universal to aqueous acrylics (yellows and reds are weak, whites are chalky, etc.)
>>
>>93143373
>most overpriced toy soldiers on the planet
You have no idea.
>>
>>93143415
>whites are chalky
only true for shitty brands
even AP's matte white manages to be smooth
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>>93143422
>only true for shitty brands
I've had it from Citadel, from Vallejo Model and Game, from P3, even Mr Hobby Aqueous
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>>93143415
>whites are chalky
Man, are they ever! I use Reaper's Pure White (pic related), but I'd be interested in Citadel's White Scar another go - if and only if - it was the "Air" formulation and not the regular stuff. Not holding my breath for that one, though.

OKC-anon also got me some VMC "Ivory" for Christmas, and that's worked out pretty well the times I've used it, too.
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>>93143395
It's always the same schizo that gets triggered by two thin coats. Watch him samefag and call someone hobbylet/paintlet. I've seen him trying to shit up 40kg too
>>
>>93143373
>It's already expensive, might as well spend more!
You know 2nd hand and printing exist?
>>
>>93143460
I've never complained about it before, so that makes at least two of us. We've doubled our numbers anon, it's too late for you.
>>
>>93142989
Yeah, probably what I'll do. Keep it minimal in contrast to the beat to shit other guys.
>>
>>93143329
I am thinning the milliput, yeah. Maybe I could thin it more, but I get it pretty goopy as is.
>>
>>93143030
NTA but I still don't get it
>>
Sorry for the shit quality but I was kind of having fun with building this
I called him Shas'Ui Vior'la Wutang Nem'Sha
I may have fucked up the naming convention but I tried, I think
I enjoyed making this one honestly
>>
>>93144037
wicks the excess paint off without sucking out the moisture like when you do the same with your drybrush on a paper towel
>>
>>93144037
Nta but it''s a meme artis opus came with, supposedely it's good for removing excess paint before drybrushing. You can literally use a regular palette or something though. All you need to do is remove paint without also removing the moisture from the brush
>>
>>93144037
It's supposed to be a better way to get paint off the drybrush than a paper towel as it doesn't dry the paint out quite so much and the results are not as chalky and you can also see clearly how the paint will go on to a model
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>>93144080
the texture catches the brush better than a flat palette so you can more efficiently remove paint
and it gives you a very easy gauge of how your paint will look when catching different shapes
>>
>>93134708
Almost done..

>>93140560
Based

>>93142965
I'd definitely do something for the face plate, it's a bit too flat at the moment

>>93142417
quite grim, quite dark, I like it anon
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I must say it - I hate myself for buying stuff and priming it to the point when I'm genuinely scared of starting to work on my ever growing box of awaiting minis that would probably take whole year to paint. Just had to say it. Sorry.
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>>93138472
More mesa than desert, but could work for you: Bought some terracotta texture paste for walls at the hardware store and brushed it with a flesh tone and a bone finish afterwards. Used the same for the rock in the back. The stuff is cheap enough for terrain.
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>>93138472
AKs Sandy Desert and Desert Sand are fantastic for desert bases
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Bad photos but some p'orcs progress that's taking forever
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>>93145078
Neat, who makes these?
I can see what you are going for with the brighter colors but the halberd guy is a bridge too far for me. I would say the crossbowman is my favorite scheme. Even then I think the bright colors will look better once you have a wash on them.
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>>93144695
Take a weekend to slap basecoats on all of them. Then refine them at your own pace.
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Got a bit of colour on six PM. Other than one character, these are the only marines I build that don't need some GS work.

>>93139766
Thanks
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>>93145719
What spray box is that?
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>>93145776
XPOTool followed by algorithm babble
It has a waterfall feature, which helps collect the pigment from overspray. I feel the suction suffers for it though. Still better than just an open window.
The main reason I got it, was that it is a bit larger than most other models.
>>
>>93145812
https://www.wiltec.de/en/xpotool-airbrush-spray-booth-with-waterfall-11m3-min-water-curtain-led-paint-overspray-extraction/34280
This here? Is it rated for thinners? What do you mean by algorithm babble? Sorry for teh many questions
>>
>>93145900
>What do you mean by algorithm babble
Nta but probably random related words so the products pops in search engines
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>>93145900
Yes
Also yes, as I assume you mean paint with toxic solvents that get airborne more than only the stuff in acrylic thinners. That is mainly depending one the filters you install and less on the spray booth itself. The filter the water goes trhough should be a carbon one, while I'm not sure on the type of the blue one, that sucks in the air, but you can always replace them to be sure. I point the exhaust outside, so I can't say how well the filter really works.
What >>93145908 said. I bought it on amazon, as it was slightly cheaper there.
>>
First time using speed paints, I definitely see the appeal especially with highly detailed models with lots of lil crevices. How does it work with larger flat surfaces though? Like space marine pauldrons, etc?
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>>93145947
Yes, solvents. I mean whether it has a motor which won't produce sparks and ignite the solvents
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>>93145998
just make sure the paint doesn't pool in areas and it works a'ight
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>>93145998
There's a video in the OP about proper use of contrast like paints, with speesh mareen pauldrons being one example
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>>93145999
You have the instruction right there on the site. It says you shouldn't, because the motor could produce sparks. This is true for any electronic devise. From what I could see it is working with some basic ventilators inside. The type you see in a computer, maybe set up the be a bit more powerful. If they produce sparks, they are usually nearly dead, and with normal airbrushing, you won't release enogh of those fumes at once to cause a real problem. The filter for those solvents is also in front of the ventilators.
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>>93145998
Terrible job dude unless it’s supposed to look like like you didn’t hit any of the edges.
>>
>>93144076
>>93144089
>>93144080

Thanks guys, not really a technique I use enough for rhat to be worth it but interesting to know.
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>>93146118
thanks
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Which colour of pink for House Bolton?
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>>93146589
Left blends in better with the palette, right is too saturated and sticks out.
>>
New thread:

>>93146777
>>93146777
>>93146777
>>
>>93145256
Otherworld miniatures makes these.
A somewhat blurry photo cuts out the highlighting I think, but they already had a wash and I'm not a fan of the hard segmenting for muscles.
I am in the fence about the halberd green tho, I get it. I do really like how it's just out there
>>
>>93145078
>>93145071
They're very nice anon. Makes me want to play a game of DnD using mini's. Would love to fight against them.

Mind if I ask how you made the tiles on your bases?
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>>93130135
That's a bit excessive. Unless you're collecting just for the sake of collecting. He will never assemble and paint everything in that picture without dedicating a significant amount of time.
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>>93130135
Lord no, I have a couple of miniatures from blackstone fortress still to do and some bits from leviathan but that's it. Even that is unusual for me, someone bought me the blackstone box and I mainly got the leviathan one because it was a cheap way of getting a bunch of stuff I didn't have.



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