Work in Progress, "Gamer Cleanliness Advisory" Edition>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin:https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paintshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s>Paint thinning 102https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI>Darren Latham's 20 top tips for miniature painting successhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERXNObqeNb8>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginnershttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM>Decal Like a Prohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c>How to Edge Highlighthttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk>How to use contrast style paintshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI>How to Paint with Tremors https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special wayhttps://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny>Previous Threads:>>93128046>>93108901>>93086095>>93067410
stop
>>93146813no
>>93146813
So, i have bunch of thin plasticard. I want to use it for bases for scatter terrain, but the shit is too floppy. Any ideas how to make it more rigid without significantly increasing its thickness?
Reposting from old thread: which shade of pink for House Bolton?
Greenskin assortment I sculpted, printed, and painted. I want to base them, but I can't be assed to spend $10 on a bag of sand. The fella in the helmet is a little homage to the ironclaw orcs from oldschool mtg, one of my favorite cards.
>>93147305for reference
>>93146777Basically done with my terminator chaplain, converted from the librarian leviathan. Was a fun little project, and I'm mostly satisfied with how it turned out>>93147300Definitely left, fits better with the rest of the colours and that's pretty much the tone of pink I pictured in my mind when reading about the boltons>>93147305You sculpted them yourself? Good stuff
>>93147349librarian from leviathan*, pic rel
>>93143007does anything you are going to paint actually have the same texture as that? i would be putting some basing materials and bits of sprue glued into piles on there and stuff like that for some texture variety. that's assuming your goal is to judge how your brush is going to apply the paint to an actual model before you go for it. three quarters of that thing is just the tops of standard lego blocks, doesn't look very helpful
>>93147349>You sculpted them yourself? Good stuffThank you anon! Yeah, the paint is nothing too fantastic, but I'm happy enough with the sculpts.
I'm at a loss for which color to paint the yoke. Maybe red, but I'm not sure if I should go Khorne Red or Mephiston
>>93146777Got back into painting after a year long hiatus. Found a box of dark angels veterans, and I decided to make them in a redeemed color scheme. Not my best work, but I need to get back in the saddle.
>>93147425here's the back, C&C welcome
>>93147305I think you missed a mould line there.Jokes aside these are fantastic, I would never have guessed they weren't original.
>>93147393Texture palates are actually for wiping excess paint off of the brush without drying it out like a paper towel does, both preventing accidentally brushing instead of dry brushing or getting a powdery finish.
>>93147425>>93147461Mephiston red would make it stand out too much. With the way you painted the rest of the chariot and armours, either khorne red or plain metal are your best bets imo>>93147441Well it's not bad. A few highlights on the robe would make it much more interesting as well
>>93147300I prefer the pink that's on the grey beard
>>93147596I ordered some screaming skull for that very purpose. Trying to do this one with no wash as a challenge.
How do typical game paints hold up to being kept in a car at high temperatures? I drive a van for work and have a lot of downtime that could be spent painting inside of said van, but I'm worried about ruining the paints/minis by keeping them in a van when it's getting to high 90s/low 100s.
>>93147136Use old cds/dvds, they are rigid and flat. you might break some of them apart to better fill the surface. mask their shape with pva soaked paper and styrofoam cuts or cardboard, then cover everything with grout.
>>93147575so does the side of your hand though
>>93148629You can say the same about wiping your ass with toilet paper, but oddly enough most people prefer to use it anyway.
>>93148309Toss them in a hard sided lunch cooler. Even on a hot day it will be a bit cooler than the ambient temp.
What's a good material to practice pinning on? Now that I think about it I do have one medium-sized mini that's DOA but other than that I'm actually short on minis I'm ok with messing up. I already botched a wing joint on a mini I like but it will be immaterial once it's assembled.
>>93149351Old ork boyz for minis, the torsos and arms are flat for easy measuring.
>>93149351Just pin chunks or random plastic together. Like spures or other shit that you'd discard otherwise. If you can get smaller and smaller stuff, along with the right sized drill bits, then you can pin anything.
>>93148309Should be okay for both paints and minis as long as they're not stored in direct sunlight.
Do the Vallejo xpress colors bubble? I see a lot of people here saying that Vallejo paints now bubble easily, but do their contrast paints equivalent bubble?
>>93149583I'd imagine that they would if they use the same polyurethane medium that Vallejo is using. I'd recommend using AP speedpaints instead if they bubble because I hate supporting Citadle, but I hope the Xpress colors don't bubble. I plan on following this tutorial I stumbled on with AP speedpaints: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYpo0kzlWcM
>>93149351Just pin sprue pieces to each other
>>93147305>but I can't be assed to spend $10 on a bag of sandMichaels sells "fine stone granules." Those should be fine for sand basing if you can't find sand in your local area.
>>93146777Is this enough or i need to priming on it too?
>>93149583I use the new Vallejo paints to wash my dishes since they're so soapy and bubbly
>>93149583I bought the whole set of Xpress and haven't had any trouble, though I never had any issues with the new game color either.
>>93149852Forgot my pic
>>93150005you fell for the meme, enjoy dust in your drybrysingalso lego gore
>>93149852>>93150005>having this much lego not allocated to specific kitsYou have to be 18 years old to post here
>>93150030NTA but I have lots of Lego and their counterparts from China and Poland and I'm 35. Why throwing away something that your potential kids might still use?
>>93147300RIGHT pops way way more. Remember most of the time you're not looking at them from an inch away under a bright ringlight, you're looking at them from 3 feet away on a gaming table or on a shelf somewhere. The brighter pink will stick out more.
So the new eceleb-fueled meme is to build 'drybrush palettes' out of random shit?Is this some kind of terminally online syndrome?Not long ago it was that 'ebic pop it toys but as a dry palette!!!!!!!!!'
>>93147349what color gold is that? outstanding job
>>93150030why did you get rid of all your old legos
>>93150030Well, it's lego pieces from like 20 years ago
>>93150066Anything as long as it has texture, and Lego piece has a lot of textures
>>93150156We've been drybrushing fine for over 30 years without that meme shit.
>>93150203The future is now, old man
>>93150030You will never be a father.
Which one would you say works best? This is for an old skaven army so minis will be quite dark apart from claws and teeth.
>>93150537I'd say the top middle works the best.
Hoping to have the basecoats and cleanup finished today.
>>93147349Absolutely love it mate, top job
>>93149857Back in the day, in the before time, we used to add a little bit of dish washing liquid to GW inks and use that to panel line our space marines.
>>93150537I prefer smaller sand
>>93147305Can we acquire these sculpts anon? Love them, so chunky
Working on Grombrindal
Scoria turned out great, this was a lot of fun
>>93150537All of them are nicely made but I prefer top left and center.
>>93150537They're all nice even if a little simple. If I was the one picking I'd go with middle one on the bottom
sirs, is there a document with slaves to darkness color schemes?
I’m in the brainstorming stage right now for a city fight guard army. Does anyone have any tips for how to convey a rain-slicked effect on bases? I don’t want to just slap a gloss varnish on everything and call it a day.
>>93150071>>93150693Thanks ladsGold is Vallejo metal color gold, with a black wash, then highlights with the same gold and a silverUsually I'd add gsw gold pigments and use brownish washes, but I wanted to keep this somber and pale>>93150854Quite nice, base turned out great>>93150665I remember your ultraorks..>>93150537>>93151049I think they're fine, I'm not a fan of busy bases for rank and file models but that's my opinion
>>93151287Are you doing a modern city, historical city, etc? Something that might work is a very thin layer of water effects in the recesses (between cobblestones for historical, at the edge of curb/road joins and into drains for modern, etc). Not necessarily specifically Water Effects (though it'd be good for splashes), but I'm blanking on the generic term of for the pourable water resin stuff. That might be the nuclear option in terms of effort per base, but it'll look a bit more realistic than just gloss varnish.
>>93151287Dirty down moss effect or green ink or wash on the pavement to suggest slime and moss
>>93147349That looks fantastic. Excellent work
>was always too lazy and nostalgic to sell my lego sets even though I never use them>apparently that makes me smart and forward thinking>according to my peers in the "painting overpriced toy soldiers" communityMeh.
>>93149583They reactivate if you apply some washes, but otherwise they are fine.
>>93150773Thanks! Sure you can, I put them up on Cults3d, just search up Oldhammer and sort by date. The goblin thief is free :)
>>93149728Oh I might have to check into that! Thanks anon>>93147506haha thank you very much
>>93147349love the conversion but>edge highlighted space marine
Anybody have a good guide for making a damaged road base?
Does anyone have a good recipe for white? I see some armies painted in white/off white, either going for blue or cream in the shadows and it looks really nice and clean, but I have no experience painting large sections of white like that.
>>93150203We also used to walk everywhere. Get with the times grandpa.
>>93150203>continue to use inferior methods because people dealt with them due to a lack of alternatives in the pastretard
>>93152383I used this technique on a test model and really liked the resultcould easily swap the cold contrasts with something warmer for a different feel toohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UxkbEG2GwMI
>>93152383https://youtu.be/Z1JRL4Zc5iw
>>93152319Thin cork board can be a convincing asphalt texture, and you can gouge out pieces for believable damage.
>>93152531I like the guy but that white looks boring as fuck
>>93152383White and black are slightly more tricky than other colors but the layering is essentially the same. As a rule of thumb you go neutral shade, then warm or cold tinted midtone, then neutral highlight with as many in-between steps as you like. So for white that'd be light gray, blue or brown off-white, then white. Black would be pure black, then blue-or-brown dark gray, then gray.
>>93152383At the basic you'll need to decide how to approach the white. Either white first then shading or building up from your shadows to white.
>>93152383https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0N1JkDeylQEven if you don't want to use oil paint there is some interesting discussion with color theory, like using light turquoise or lavender makes for a more interesting mid tone.
>>93152315to be fair thats not gw eavy metal highlighting at least
I don't understand what is the point of dry brushing. It's just look sloopy and chalky
>>93152710The secret is to keep just teeeny bit of moisture in the brush You can use drybrushing to get great blends if you use it right.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kxuY2NXeI2MYou can substitute the branded brushes in this for others but the technique is solid
>>93152710It's neither of those things if you do it properly
>>93152710It's quick and it works on things that are supposed to look chalky, like rock or bone.
>>93152551You can change the tones of the shades and highlights you use. At the end of the video he gives an example of a blueish white.
How is Rustoleum's white primer as a primer for miniature use? I've been using the black primer and that stuff is retard proof. But given that white pigments are less forgiving than black pigments do I have to use the white spray primer differently than black primer?
>>931530132x paint + primer is unusable. They're expecting you to use solvent-based spray cans on top of it but acrylic won't stick to it.Pure primer version might be ok.
>>93152315>>93152150Thanks!>>93152710It's very useful when you have a model with a lot of edges (ex scales) and can't be arsed highlighting each one.>>93152383I usually paint something almost pure, flat white, then darken it with oils, then highlight it back where needed. My recipe for that first smooth, flat coat of white is mixing white acrylic paint and white acrylic ink.>>93153013White rattlecan primers will always give a grainier finish in my experience, I haven't tested many brands though and I have never tried anything rustoleum. You can slightly improve the finish with warming the can beforehand, spraying at the perfect distance with the perfect temperature etc but personally I'd shy away from pure white cans
>>93147305Good sculpt, how you'd do the skulls? I'm gonna get started in sculpting soon and looking for tips
Anybody have recommendations for a blue effect paint similar to tesseract glow?
>>93153013>How is Rustoleum's white primer as a primer for miniature use?It's the price/performance leader. Just don't, as >>93153169 says, get the "Paint + Primer" version. The cans are similar.Now, before you rush out and buy enough to spray your entire army, I would caution you that it can go on a little thick. Something like Citadel's Wraithbone is much better in this regard, but it's also triple the price! I would use the Rustoleum on the squadboyz and save the Citadel sprays for showcase units or characters.
>>93150818Holy fuck that is good.
>>93153524There's not really anything quite like tesseract glow in other colors but you could try experimenting with talassar blue or AP magic blue
>>93153645don't want to be a downer or anything but that layering is pretty crude
>>93153169>>93153192>>93153611Thanks guys! I'll test out the rustoleum white primer not the paint+primer version and try it out. If that fails I'll give James Workshop some money and use the White Scar spray primer.
>>93146777Anybody use acrylic pouring medium for water effects? I've had some success but I'm getting a lot of shrinkage when each layer dries. Pic is an example of the shrinkage. I think I need to use smaller layers but hoping someone here has some experience and can offer tips.
>>93153488Thanks! I dunno, I just sculpted them haha. Zbrush is great, just start with a sphere and have at it.
>>93154235I don't know the composition of pouring medium, but your result looks similar to most one component water effects. They are useless for depth, you only do water surfaces with them. For depth you go resin, or you don't borther.
>>93153676NTA but just because you can see the brush strokes doesn't make it bad. As a whole it looks very good, the drastic transitions are striking. Not everything has to be golden demon glaze blends.
>>93154235Any water-based medium is going to shrink when it dries, usually that effect is on our side but there's a reason you can't gap fill effectively with paint either.
>>93154520I'm not saying it's bad I'm saying it's just different colors stacked on top of each other which is, well, crude. That's why I thought "holy fuck that's good" is an exaggeration
>>93147349>>93147363Thear lord, that is such an improvement over the original model, great job.
>>93147349Sweet, how did you remove the runes?
>>93154680To each his own. I'm fine with harsh layering if it has the color theory and composition to pull it off. It can even look bold in a way smoother layering wouldn't.This isn't mine but I have it saved because I really like how it looks.I will say that Grombrindal anon could clean up the highlights on the cape a little bit, and the hair over the one eyebrow.
In fealty to the God-Emperor, our undying lord, and by the grace of the Golden Throne, in the name of the Holy Ordos, I call thee Diabolus, and in the testimony of thy crimes, I submit this Carta. May Imperial justice account in all balance. The Emperor protects.
What does /wip/ think of Squidmar Miniatures?
>>93155415this nibba gon get wax on he hed
>>93154685>>93154751Thank you, I filled them in with milliput and sanded it where I could, mainly on pauldrons, back and chest- I did swap the greaves entirely though.>>93153866Again, I'd be cautious with pure white primers, I have the gw white scars one and it's very grainy compared to my light grey vallejo one, only used it once on a tyranid test model and for a couple of panels on my dreadnought.
>>93155644He's allowed to have his style but it annoyed me when he made a general painting tips video and was down on washes and mediums. They're incredibly useful to the average painter.
>>93155687ya, that was really fucking confusing to me. Just be a professional photographer/ painter is not good advice for beginners
Washes are literally the midwit meme.With the 'don't use washes they're a crutch!' right there in the middle
>>93155644I see "man with stupid face" thumbnail, I scroll past.
>>93155644I auto hide every hobby channel with faggot clickbait titles and/or soiface. I haven't seen him in my feed so he must be one or the other. Or both.
>>93155885This is the way
Maybe it was a bad idea time investment wise to do every stone individually like this. And I'm not even at the highlighting stage.Then again you would ever paint 12 of these ever, if they don't change the rules drastically.
>>93156004wow realistic highlights anon!
>>93156027I have no idea how to read this comment other than weirdly vitriolic sarcasm.
>>93156004Nice shading on the crack
Working on a champion of khorne - would layering up to a reddish-orange on the red armor be too much? I'd like to make his red armor a lot brighter, but still have it read a red. Should I just mix a little bit of white with the red paint that I've been using so far, or would it being slightly orange work? Also, this is my first time really painting a model with trim & I'm really enjoying it. Needing to be more precise and methodical with highlighting red has been a fun challenge.
>>93156371Slightly orange is the meta, if you keep layering up with white you'll get pink.
>>93156440Orange it is, then. I definitely don't want him to look pink. Thank you for the advice anon, will post the results when I'm done.
What's the trick for non-speckly zenithal?Is it even worth it?
>>93156474>What's the trick for non-speckly zenithal?any half-decent airbrush
Anyone else in here monocular/have limited depth perception? I have very steady hands, but I'm making mistakes while painting because I can't perceive how close my brush is to the model and end up touching stuff I don't mean to. Any tips would be very welcome.
>>93156371You're on the right track, you can mix with a skin tone (that basically is a light orange) to highlight red.
>>93156764Can't help you with that anon, my eyesight is abysmal but both eyes barely work.
>>93156764I just turned thirty and I am starting to notice my very close-sight getting a little unfocused (which sucks dick because I'm already near-sighted), and the other day I had to hold my mini in a sort of sweet spot while I painted. Best tip is to just move extremely slow and careful and get a really good point on your brush for detail work. Sucks I'm probably going to lose more eyesight and start losing hair and getting back problems before I ever find my fortune so to speak and can ask out a girl for the first time since highschool without being deeply ashamed of my pathetic status in life =^)
>>93155415>We don't know who struck first.. but we do know it was us that scorched the sky.
Possibly dumb question but how long does a wet pallette keep paint useable?
>>93157119I got one with a closed lid and it keeps for like 3 days.
>>93157137ever had mold issues?
>>93157137Holy shit. I might switch to a wet pallette then. Itd be nice to just have paint ready to rock so l can do just a little bit during the week.
>>93154319>>93154547Appreciate it. It worked pretty well for the fountain, but I should probably try out resins. Any recommendations?
will tamiya plastic cement melt ABS?
Practiced painting a Flesh Tearer today>>93147349Big fan
>>93150854Your base is better than the model. I hope you majored in architecture, and not fine arts. Pic unrelated.
First finished model in a while, painted with the Army Painter starter set that includes him. No highlights on the metallics since I could not make the silver or gold lighter, but I did try making my own highlights for the red, green and brown using white + flesh color
>>93157155Yeah, if I forget about it there will be mold. There's organics in the paint, so it's pretty inevitable.>>93157156Yeah, make sure it closes though. I got some knockoff tupperwear thing.
>>93157137>>93157155NTA but my wet palette keeps for a day if it's open, and one time I left it closed over a vacation and some paints inside were still good.Fuck yeah we have mold issues lmao, the whole house is humid as shit. 55% humidity and we run a dehumidifier. The wet palette itself doesn't get mold because the sponges are antifungal, and if you replace it with rando sponges just put some pennies on the bottom.
>>93157400Plastic cement for miniatures doesn't work on ABS. I don't know about tamiyas specifically but they all probably have a similar formula
>>93156474Good quality white ink and more air than paint>Is it even worth it?Unless you are using translucent paints you can barely even see the zenital to begin with...
Printed this overnight, painted it today. Nice little tower for generic fantasy purposes, looks like I'm getting into Frostgrave
>>93158217I'm finally gonna paint some FDM prints. What was your painting process? It looks good!
>>93158381>Rattlecan prime black>Rough and messy paint over with a dark grey>Drybrush with light grey>Wash with three different washes to give different impressions of wear and staining at different heights
And now it has a roof
>>93157791That's a pretty big "unless". I would never airbrush yellow or a lot of reds without zenithal. And then there's inks and contrast paints. And nobody says the zenithal needs to be black and white.
>>93157549A liner brush will change your life.
Can i hightlight skintone with dry brushing?
>>93158688No. If you try I'll come to your house and beat you up.
LGS sells Vallejo, AP and AK paints and auxiliary products.What manufacturer makes the most idiot proof white primer that will go through my new airbrush?
>>93158704>What manufacturer makes the most idiot proof white primer that will go through my new airbrush?Mr hobby, never got any problem with their primer
He still needs a basing and a name on his shoulder but otherwise he's pretty much done. Might widen the barrels on the storm bolter as well.
Goddamn, doing edge hightlight with synthetic brush fucking suck
>>93159406>still using a combination of some old GW brushes I had around plus several brushes leftover from the time my grandma owned a paint and art supplies shopI have literally never tried using a synthetic brush in my life. I think I have some around from a paint set but never had reason to use them yet. What's the difference?On a related note, is brush soap a requirement to properly take care of kolinsky brushes, or can I get by just being careful and clean water? Would regular hand soap work?
>>93159439GW brushes is just synthetic brush though
Finished the basic zenithal jobs, but mostly got the eyes in. Her right eye is eeever so slightly too far to the left, but it's close enough, and would be too hard to move the amount it needs to.Don't at me about the chalking looking finish, for whatever reason this always looks worse when I take phone pics than it does irl or with my proper camera.That said I did try and use rustoleum primer for the first time, and I don't think I will again, it did impart some texture no matter how thin I tried applying coats that I never had an issue with with tamiya rattle cans before. So much for trusting people on the internet I guess.Anyway, I think the eyes look pretty good.
>>93159439>is brush soap a requirement to properly take care of kolinsky brushes, or can I get by just being careful and clean water? Would regular hand soap work?Brush soap is just hand soap with conditioner, so you can just use hair conditioner
>>93159406>doing edge highlights fucking suckftfy, edge highlights are a gimmick for making minis "pop" without any actual thought put into the paintjob
>>93159452it doesn't matter how it looks through a better camera or irl, this is definetely chalky aka you used a shit primer. I think people here said that they wouldn't use rustoleum for display minis only for some rank and file shit becuase it's not perfectly smooth. If it were me I couldn't stomach this finish, I'd strip it and reprime.That said, I like the eyes a lot. If you want to give this a nice paintjob the texture will be even more jarring later.
>>93159448Their regulars are not synthetic, they have a separate line for that.>>93159455That's good to know.
>>93159592their "natural" brushes are literally the bottom of the barrel though
>>93159606That's still not synthetic anon, drop it while you can.
>>93159606arent those just rebranded W&N + hobby tax?
Finished this caked up callidus assassin
>>93159626>rebranded W&NNah, probably from some chink factory
>>93159624I'm NTA bruh, just saying they're garbage since the topic came up
What is the best and cheapest synthetic brush brand btw
>>93159637Everything geedubs does is locally manufactured/sourced, so stop talking out of your ass for once
I've seen a few painters get a really great finish that needs no edge-highlighting out of just a zenithal+contrast paint that's mixed 50/50 with contrast medium. however i can't for the life of me make this work: on the darker parts of the zenithal the color is way too dark, and i still get tidepools everywhere despite the thinner contrast paint. unless this method is actually a meme and I just don't know it, i'd love to hear if anyone has experience with this sort of thing.>>93157579I like him, I think he'll really pop standing on the tabletop. good colors.
>>93159637There's not liking a brand and then there's pulling shit out of your ass to be mad about.
>>93150030>he keeps all his Legos in kitsThat's like, advanced autism. You build the kit once, then add it to the LEGO tote anon. Come on
>>93159632Could cheeked up on a Saturday morning.
>>93158688You can drybrush anything, the flatter the surface, the harder it gets. It will always have that typical drybrush texture though.
>>93159452Those eyes are pretty darn good. Is it smart to start with them though?
>>93159650>everythingall the tools are chinesium
>>93159909
>>93159923I'm not home but I'll take pictures when I get back from work, no problem
>>93156474how, i use a chinese AE airbrush and i never had this
>>93156474You're not balancing your dilution/air pressure properly. It happens because the pressure isn't high enough to evenly atomise the paint. You can either up the pressure, or you can dilute your paint a bit more
>>93159650>>93159909rulebooks and most paper/cardboard things (except novels and wd) are also from china, even diceI think only novels, wd, paints, models and brushes are local/eu
>>93159809What happened when i dry brushing on already painted mini?
>>93160351Nothing unexpected.
>>93150818another twitter anon. looking good!
>>93159696If you didnt have a space ship partly made from fort legorado you were legoing wrong.
>>93157228You have some pretty harsh shrinkage there too. You also run the risk of it not having cured at all under the surface layer yet, which can cause some distortion when it eventually does.Can't give you a specific name for resin, but you want a slow curing epoxy that is at least labelled as clear and UV resistend (they never are UV resistend). The slow curing time is important, so you don't have to worry about the heat given off by the reaction. You also want one that is mixed by weight and not by volume, simple for ease of measurement. We only need fairly little resin at once so getting the ratio off by half a gramm has a far bigger impact than when you use nearly the entire bottle.
>>93160049Appreciated anon, more knowledge spreading is a good thing.
>>93159632Good on ya! Looks great! Mine is the really old one, with a really old paint job to match.What's crazy is how much the current plastic model is going for on eBay!
>>93160879I do but it wound looking like flowing water so I'm not mad lol. Will give resin a try next time I make some water. Thanks!
>>93161049Ok I'm very sorry anon I was sure I have the boxes but it appears I threw them out. This shop shows country of origin though and the ones I was sure about(drill, nippers, knife) are all CN. www everythingairbrush com/product/citadel-tools-super-fine-detail-cutters/
>>93161778Np, I will check at the store next time, they shoul have some nippers.
>>93161478Well she's present in every imperial list, so of course she is. The plastic model looks great, but it's so damn flimsy. My metal one can be used as an actual weapon and I'd just have to touch up the paint, lol.
>>93161478Apparently it's not available anymore, for any reason, so that immediately makes prices skyrocket. Either a reboxing or a new model incoming I suppose, I don't see them squatting her now that we finally have all 7 temples. If anything they could make a new box including new versions of them all.
So, used airbrush primer on my metal models, and it almost instantly began chipping. Was advised to seal the primer before painting it.Is there any airbrush sealer that will work for this purpose? Trying to avoid rattlecans if at all possible.
>>93162004>seal the primerwhat retardation is thatclean you metals with soap and water and try again, if it still chips so much either your primer is shit, it arrives dry to the model because you are airbsuhing it wrong, or it has gone bad
>>93162004Never had an issue with priming metal minis even with a shitty primer like Vallejo. You're doing something wrong
>>93162004They sell purpose made primers for metal minis. Alternatively, try an automotive primer. They're designed to stick to cast epoxy and metal, where conventional primers that rely on acetone/toluene melting the surface won't. Cheaper on average too.As >>93162029 says though, you've probably got grease on your minis or your paint's not flowing properly. You've got the luxury with metal minis that stripping them is easy, so please try again.
>>93162029>>93162145I'm using this primer, and of course I've cleaned the minis, usually give them a 10 minute soak with Dawn and a soft brush scrub afterwards. I prime them wet(as in, I'm not just barely airbrushing on the primer).>>93162194There metal primers that'll run through an airbrush?
>>93162251>There metal primers that'll run through an airbrush?https://www.vms-supplies.com/product-page/vms-metal-prep-4k-primer-for-pe-30-ml
Is there a general consensus on which paint colours are the best? I don't mind buying from several different companies.
>>93162553kimera.There is a consensus and that's the answer.
>>93162553You might as well be asking our opinions on skub.
>>93162553>Is there a general consensus on which paint colours are the best?Ask a hundred painters here, and you'll get a hundred different answers, although most of those will probably tell you to steer clear of Citadel's whites and off-whites unless you absolutely have to match a specific colour.Personally, I'm partial to Citadel's Evil Sunz Scarlet, as it gives my Blood Angels that bright Second Edition red I prefer, and to Reaper's Pure White, which is so far the best white I've found.
>>93162586Nice purple
I'm experiencing a period when no matter what I do the model turns shitty. It's like my hands forgot how to paint. Not even doing anything new either.Sad.
adding weathering. need to stipple on some red for rust, finish rotors, and make bases
It's the fag with the custom Sisters of Silence from the previous thread again.Got them all primed last night and hit a little bump. Should I paint the hair on all of them blue to match the plumes on my Custodes' helmets, or do natural hair colours and give the unit some variety?There's no hard uniformity restrictions on how they need to look, I'm just not sold one way or the other at this stage. How does /tg/ prefer it's creepy topknot women?
I really need to practice freehanding more, but my chaos champion is complete. This model was really fun to paint. Dealing with the trim and actually having to layer paints properly was a good lesson. I think the symbol on the shield ruins the model, but I did what I could with what I had.
Is there a better alternative to the hobby barbed wire for basing that army painter and other companies sell?
>>93163330You could always make some yourself. There's an excellent tutorial for it over on dakka. If you search the forums for Nurgle's Rope you'll find it. Picrel shows the results, which imo are excellent. I'made barbed wire this way myself before, and after getting the steps down an hour or two spent twisting wires gives me about 2 metres of barbed wire and very sore fingers.
>>93157228how did you manage to do the streams of water that fountain looks gorgeous
>>93163806UV resin over fishing line
>>93162571>Kirill Kanaev approves this post
Any tips on how to cut out this river with minimum hassle and loose EPS? The foam cutter I bought kinda sucks and doesn't stay hot very long and it's hard to reach the flat river bed area anyway
>>93162251How much did you thin it? I was having the same issue with the black and dark neutral grey so I emailed their support. They recommended thinning it as little as possible, just enough to get it to spray. I usually mix it at 3:1 primer to 80% thinner/20% flow improver +3 drops in the cup before anything else goes in. Mix it with a brush then do a blowback mix, it will look thick but it should spray fine. When applying with a brush they recommended that spreading a drop on the wet palette was enough to thin it, don't add extra water just come at it with a damp wicked brush. Again it feels like its too thick but it will cover fine.
>>93163013luv me some deathskulls. well done.
>>93163928never tried this but you may be able to cup open a beer can and use the thin metal as a curved blade to cut it lengthwise, just dont cut yourselfalternatively spray acetone or plastic glue over the river to melt the foam and shape it that way
Currently doing a frost themed Ironjawz army and need color recommandations for my maw-krusha boys, but I dont want to make it blue like the orks.Any ideas?
>>93164213If you want it to stay cold then a cold purple with blue shadows or a cold green with blue shadows would look good while having a color in common with the rest of the army.
>>93163806Thanks! I used transparent jewelry wire and glued it into place first. Then I rubbed a bit of acrylic pouring medium onto it with a cheap small brush. The key is to use small amounts so it doesn't just slide off. I think I did 2 "coats" to make the drips a bit larger. >>93163833This guy is guessing.
>>93164279>guessingFuck you, you cunt. That's the way you're supposed to do it and it works. Don't try and discredit me oputright because your stupid ass did it the hard way.
>>93164303>the way you're supposed to do itlol
>>93164303lmao I'm GUESSING you don't have many friends
Any suggestions in recording painting tutorials? used to don't years ago and I want to do it again. Nothing fancy just the usual layering stuff and enjoying painting a model and sharing recipes.
>>93164303>the way you're supposed to do itGuess not, since he got great results doing it another way :^)
I have the twilight kin corsair harlots coming in the mail so I have to start getting through some of my backlog.
>>93159823I'm kinda following a rough guide, so we'll see if it's a problem eyelashes/liner kind of offer a buffer and the eyes pull the whole face together so I can see it being beneficial without being too risky. Trying to paint the face without eyes is always going to look strange. First 75mm scale model I'm doing, but the guide is for 150mm. I've got 3 of these models, I'm gonna practice on them, and then Probably get some more and maybe a 150mm version (or a different 150mm bust, idk).
Fucks sake this is taking way longer than I expected. At least I finished the cockpit and I'm decently happy with it
>>93164635Lookin' sharp! Could we get a close-up of that cool-looking cockpit?
Getting there! Still have some detailing on the base but I like how it turned out
>>93164794Sure, it's nothing particularly impressive. Didn't go that hard since it's gonna be obscured by the clear parts anyway
>>93159452Rustoleum is for army painters who want to save money and don't care about the final finish.
>>93165097Apparently. I should have tested it properly first, but it's too late now.
>>93165121I agree with the other anons, the eyes look great but maybe you should strip while you can. You can fix the lazy eye next time around
>>93164973Is Quentin Terantino behind the camera? Because the feet are the only part in focus.
>>93146777Built a servitor to use in Necromunda out of spare bitz, any thoughts on it?
>>93165223Here’s the backside of the lobotomized fella
>>93165223His lower body looks a bit too dynamic to be a servitor, upper body is good though.
>>93165198Was in a hurry but now that you mention it.....
>>93165198
>>93164132>never tried this but you may be able to cup open a beer can and use the thin metal as a curved blade to cut it lengthwise, just dont cut yourselfprobably easier to just go with a scalpel or razor blade at that point. It needs to be very sharp to cut through the small balls cleanly>alternatively spray acetone or plastic glue over the river to melt the foam and shape it that waycould work as long as it doesn't melt straight through. Definitely worth trying to clean it up though
I really want to rattle can prime some guys so I can get started on them, but it's 100°F outside. Is it really that bad to spray paint in the heat? Talk me out of it
>>93163973I thus far haven't had the need to thin it at all. It's gone through my airbrush without any issue.>>93162357I'll buy a pot of it and see how it goes, thank you.
>>93165688The primer will oxidize in the heat and make mustard gas
>>93165688spray in the AM, if possible. Also Texan here, I feel your pain with priming during the summer.
Oh this is good shit
>just used tamiya panel liner for the first timejesus christ this is so good and comfy to use
Do you just take contrast paint straight from the pot? Will it fuck up if it's on a wet pallet?
>>93166465Yes, and don't use contrast-alikes on a wet palate unless you want to use them on glazes.
>>93166465Water can change the way the contrast works but it wont destroy it or anything
>>93165829I don't understand what this effect is supposed to be replicating?
Did l fuck up by trying to paint battle sisters first? I decided ebon chalice was the coolest but good god is it fucking hard. Feels like no matter what l do l fuck up
>>93166620Coloured marble, kinda.I don't know, it just looks cool.
>>93166659Kinda looks like malachite, it's a neat effect for accent materials.
>>93166620I'd say galvanised steel but the bottom right pic has the wrong color.
Board seems extra slow today. Everyone okay?
Painting my Twilight Imperium ships, 2 players in and I'm working on the third (Yellow). Going for a Protoss vibe with them but I can't decide which drybrushing looks better (Retributor Armor on the left, Stormhost Silver on the right). Which should I go with?
>>93167452Forgot pic
>>93167648
Derpy papercraft jump assault intercessors
>>93167720Here's the template for anyone wanting to print and build their own on card stock.
>>93165055Looking good for a cockpit. Unlike some models, the windshield here is large and mostly transparent, even if it has lots of bars dividing the panes so you will get to see the effort when it is all said and done.>>93165223seems a bit weedy for a 40k servitor. They usually look swole and lobotomized. This seems more like a tech-thrall.>>93165829I'd like to see a side by side comparison with the stretched steel wool and airbrush method. Seems like this would make the paint too thick and textured in some areas.>>93167457The silver highlights give it more color variance . Go with the one on the right.>>93167639Your blue seems to go from bright and vibrant to neon with no shadows at all. It really detracts from everything else on the model. Add a dark blue wash to those parts, which should help to bring the shades closer together as well as creating shadows.
Has anyone ever leaked those Tale of Painters paint range swatch charts? If it were priced reasonably I'd generally want to support someone doing something like this but I'm not paying 22 fucking dollars just to compare a couple vallejo colors to citadel counterparts.
>>93164973Better picture, added more detail
Nearing the home stretch!
>>93165328>>93167879Thanks for the input, but I had worked with the bitz I had for the servitor, but I’ll see if I can’t do anything more to him before I get around priming and painting him.
>>93168493Nice job on they Ruby colored lenses.
Is Imperial Fist Contrast just bad? It's streaky and thin, and not nearly as vibrant as my baal red. I'm painting over a light grey.
Painted this little gaylord last night.
>>93159527Edge highlight schizo working full time at not painting models
>>93155644Worst tier hobbying slop.
>>93165829My parents painted our entire basement like this in the 90s with a purple and pink paint applied heavily across all the walls in random patches and then smearing it with a tarp
>>93168493Why he knee shiny bro
>>93167720>>93167740These are absolutely amazing. Thank you for sharing your work with us.
>>93168255>I'd generally want to support someone doing something like this but I'm not paying 22 fucking dollars just to compare a couple vallejo colors to citadel counterparts.we should make an anon patreon to crowfund buying that shit, post it here, and close it
>>93169394unironically let's do it
>>93169429Im not spending even a single cent on that balding soi grifter
Update on succubus girl. Not sure I'm pushing the shading enough, but I'm hesitant to push it much further with the face too.No idea what color her shirt should be to go with the purple.
>>93164213>>93164263Hows this then? Still have to drybrush the scales but I think I can tie it up if I use tin/bronze on the armor parts.
Any Idea how i can pull off a gem effect better? Also any tips on how to draw fine lines like that?
Is there a paint type like contrast metallic or anything I could use to easily paint metallic weapons on zenithal prime?
>>93169951I'm making this up, but just do a grey contrast over your zenithals, and then drybrush with a metallic. Imo TMM looks better just lightly drybrushed over greys/blacks than if you paint the whole thing metallic anyway.
>>93169951AP Metallic Speedpaintshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NAhPlY_YIlU
>>93169975That sounds reasonable, I’ll try it out
>>93169924Add some glitter or pearly color to it, I would try a thin coat of Mr Hobby pearl white
>>93170051What is pearl color? Some sort of glossy paint?
>>93170059Transparent glossy white paint we use in mecha and car modeling to make pearlescent finish, it uses microscopic ceramic fragments instead of metal specks example pic rel
>>93169758If anything that's too much shade. You need to keep things very subtle with pretty female faces.
Just some small things and a little clean up and he's almost done,I love this model so much
>>93169758My man please strip this shit and reprime it before you go too far, you're going to regret not doing it. You're obviously pretty good and that texture is going to ruin the finished look
>>93169893Looking nice, once the metallics/ork/bone/etc. are base coated you'll get a better idea of what else the skin needs.
>>93170646Looks like he going to heat his butler for bringing the wrong snack. Like the purple skin and the lime green is a great pop color, good stone as well.
>>93166281Related question, how long do I need to wait till I can varnish over the panel liner? It's been 24 hours, it will be fine at this point, right?
>>93171410Around 8 hours should be fine, I usually don’t wait as long but I’m using an airbrush for varnish. Also be sure that your minis have good cuts and have proper base coat, enamel panel liners are known to shatter plastic
>>93171439Thank you anon. I sprayed gloss varnish before going in with the panel liner, I'm guessing that should be enough. Don't know if you really can't put enamels directly over acrylics but I have an airbrush anyway so it's not much hassle to put a couple coats of varnish beforehand
i think snakebite leather was too dark for the teeth. also think I should've just done yellow for the quill instead of doing purple and red too
>>93171410>>93171487I often put enamels directly over paint without varnish, never had any accidents.Accidents happen when you start rubbing it too much white spirit and too harshly.Enamels dry faster than oils (they are essentially the same thing but with slightly different properties, one of them being drying time), 24hrs is more than enough.Hell if I had an airbrush I'd varnish over my oils as well after 24hrs if not even earlier; with brush strokes however it's much easier to mess up an oil coat, so I usually have to wait a bit more even if I often find myself ignoring good sense and still varnishing the day after (actual curing time would be 1week or more)
>>93171543>i think snakebite leather was too dark for the teethSo... you've never been to Appalachia?
>>93171543Looks fine to me
>>93168255https://taleofpainters.com/2023/11/top-tip-visual-comparison-of-all-61-contrast-23-speedpaints-24-gsw-dipping-inks/
>>93162251>>93163973I do not thin Proacryl Prime AT ALL, which might seem insane, but I have never had it clog in my Badger Patriot or my GSI Creos PS-289, despite priming for well over an hour. Thinning primer severely weakens its adhesion and strength, and Proacryl Prime is already a somewhat weak primer (all the matting agent and additives that make it matt and airbrush well). Stynylrez is a much stronger primer with better self-levelling capabilities, but it clogs all the time and generally sucks to use. I still use it preferentially on models that will see a lot of handling. I haven't tried it on a metal model, but it's cheap and available enough that you might try it (like $4 / 2 oz in some places). If you're really hardcore about airbrushing and have the setup for it, then look at a lacquer primer like Mr. Surfacer 500. Lacquer means "kills you".
>>93171543Small details like that can be any color without taking away from the scheme too much. The teeth you can clear up by adding some bone on top, though I don't hate them that brown.
>>93169758I think you should strip it before you get too invested. The texture is gonna fuck with the skin, and that googly eye is just gonna keep staring at you
>>93168674I mean, looking this. I felt I was fighting the yellow the whole time, and when I did the red it was miraculous.
>>93168949Put some ardcoat on it to help the sword decal stick
>>93172143Some colors are just hard to make well. Avoid yellows and whites if you want a smooth ride.
>>93172143Really needs to go over white to be punchy and bright honestly
>>93172143the only foolproof way to get smooth yellow is through an airbrush. I never used IF, but I remember Iyanden Yellow covering decently well over wraihtbone and giving nice, orange shadows. You can just layer with a regular yellow of your choice over that and it will be pretty smooth
>>93168674I've repeatedly been told here that Imperial fist yellow is like, the most opaque and saturated yellow on the market even compared to regular paints. Are people just.... lying on the internet?!?
Is priming by brush really as tedious as I think it's going to be? I live in a very humid area (Florida) so I think rattle can primers are not going to work well. I also don't have a great space (or money) for an airbrush. I've brush primed some individual minis for a DnD campaign, but never a lot in bulk such as for a Warhammer army. It took me about an hour to prime 5 small minis using the brush, because I was treating it like a normal base coat. Thinning with water, multiple coats, smoothing brush strokes etc. my fear is that if I have to paint 30 infantry models, I am going to spend and entire weekend just priming them (and no chance of the fancy zenithal priming I see is very popular now)
>>93172312This is one coat of imperial fist contrast over tamiya light grey primer.It's pretty saturated I'd say.
>>93172312Maybe, but it's still yellow.
God I fucking hate white. Web warriors are going to be the end of me I swear to god. Miles gave me a fucking aneurysm trying to get the lines on his suit right. I thought this model would be better since it didn’t have a web pattern but my freehanding on any of the details is still dogshit.
>>93172312It's not opaque at all
>>93172340I don't think you're supposed to thin primer. But yeah, that means it won't be as smooth a spray primer.
>>93172312it covers with one layer, which you usually dont get with yellow, especially with GW yellows.
>>93172439Jesus Christ anon just use masking tape or liquid
>>93168674>>93172312It's all about what you use as an undercoat. My favourite is a very light, weak pink.
>>93172518That’s a neat trick
>>93170659>>93171891I'm just going to stop posting this wip here, it's clearly upsetting people. If I order a new print and use better primer on it then I'll post that one in the future. Though I do think you are underestimating the pain-in-the-assedness of trying to strip actual primer from a model because of your experience with acrylics. It's enough of a pain to strip acrylics let alone actual paints and there's no way I'd first of all, go through the trouble of wasting my time doing it on a 12 dollar model, and second get through it without damaging the model. So it's painting it as is or in the garbage. If I decide I don't like it, I'll order another and paint it better having practiced on this one.
>>93172739That's reasonable enough, please post the finished result here when you're done, I'd like to see how it turns out.
>>93172739way to be asspained about it when it's your own fault for not properly reading when people use shitty primers and when they do not
I'm 90% sure the people who bitch and screech and shit their pants when other people paint in the heavy metal edge highlight style are just being crabs in a bucket because they can't paint for shit. It looks great, and you can read the details from across the table.
>>93172518Brown is great for painting metallic gold over.Blue is great for painting metallic silver over.
>>93171662Yeah that's his one free one, all the other ranges are $7 to $8 each. He calls it a "small donation" in his videos which I find a bit sillyI genuinely like this guy and appreciate the work he puts in, but fuck
>>93172143The hack for yellow is to use yellow contrast/speedpaint over white primer. Put it on thin, as in like, don't let it pool in recesses like you normally do with speedpaints. It's just to tint, not to shade.
>>93173105Idk what to tell you, dude. I should have tested it properly first, but I didn't. Absolutely. I was overconfident based on discussions I read specifically comparing it to other primer's and surfacers I've used and was happy with, and clearly that was my bad. But we've addressed it, and I'm not going to - and likely wouldn't be able to strip the primer anyway. So if every time I post a section that's finished or whatever progress, if the only feedback on it I get is that I should strip the paint then I'm not going to bother.
>>93173308>I genuinely like this guy
>>93173370I don't know man, his paint reviews are really thorough and it must take fucking forever to individually photograph and lay out every single swatch out of a 150+ paint range in the exact same conditions. it's something I'd be happy to pay for, just when the price is reasonable
>>93173286I'm still only about halfway done painting the number of Gaunts I own and have less than most Nid players, but I think it'll be nice to have them with all their highlights even if it takes me longer to do each individual one. I got around to re-doing all the gums and teeth for the ones that were done in the 'modern' pinkish style because I just really like how the black gums with white teeth look, then went and gave them all the red claws and hooves and painted the barrel ends so their guns had exit holes for the beetles. I'm happy with how they've come out.
>>93173286It's the opposite, people who paint eavy metal style are the ones that can't paint for shit. Sure, it's good for tabletop and all but it takes 0 thought to just highlight every edge no matter if it makes sense or not
It's another>'eavy metal is bad!>why?>Because it only looks good on the box and tabletop!>O-okay?episode!
>>93173361Nah man it's cool just do what you want. But you can't honestly expect people to not bitch about that surface when it's just not good. I'd still enjoy seeing the finished project though because you seem like a good painter so post that at least
>>93173450'Eavy Metal isn't just highlighting every edge.It's a more stylized and comic-book looking paint style for Miniatures compared to more 'realistic' methods. Both are perfectly great looking when done right, it just depends on personal taste.
>>93173474>it only looks good when you look at it!i never got this argument, that just means it looks good
>>93173549People are just mad at people copying the box instead of copying some youtuber.
So, does the 1:1 mix of matt and satin varnish actually give a good looking finish or is it another youtube meme
So these are my first Battletech minis, and the first minis I've painted in years. I was a bit rushed trying to get them finished in time for the game I had printed them for, which was incidentally arranged in this thread, but they turned out alright I think. However I'm sure there is room for improvement. I'm well aware that I am not a good painter. I was hoping I could get some advice for improving as I start the next set of four. Doing some Medium mechs next. The process for these was basically base coat in grey, Zenithal highlight in a lighter grey, undercoat in a darker grey from below, and then go over it all with Green. Then I hit some of the details, just a single coat in a metallic paint. Went over the metallic on the cockpit glass with a yellow shade and then put dabs of color on the lasers and ppcs. Sealed it all up with a gloss varnish and then did an oil wash before sealing it again with a matte varnish. I'm not sure if the oil wash did much, I feel like I brushed too much off and didn't do it right. In any case they feel a bit lacking to me but I'm not sure what to do to improve them. Does anyone have any suggestions?
>>93173625so I went ahead and sprayed it anyway and I gotta admit the finish is nice. It's not absurdly matt like with matt varnish on its own and it does reflect the light a little but in quite a natural fashion. Easy recommend
>>93173673>I'm not sure if the oil wash did much, I feel like I brushed too much off and didn't do it right.I can't be sure here... I was thinking a wash to darken some shadows (oil wash should have taken care of that), and highlights on other parts might breathe some life into these ladz, but maybe that *is* happening IRL, and it's just down to the lighting in the photographs.
>>93173306do you have any examples to show that?
>>93173939There is a visible highlight where there was the brighter zenithal, but it's over large sections of the mech so it still ends up pretty homogenous. I may need to look into some edge highlighting or dry brushing to make it pop even more. The oil wash really didn't do much. Holding them up I can see some places where there is a little pooling in the cracks and lower areas but I think I ended up taking too much off when I went back over to clean it off the raised and flat sections. I'm just not sure how to do the wash and have it do the job in the cracks that I want while also cleaning off the areas I want clean and bright. Maybe try going in with a really fine brush and just manually painting into the cracks rather than slathering it on and then brushing off the excess.
>>93173474Not bad, just limited.>looks good on the boxDisagree.>>93173608How about you don't copy anything?
>>93173718Yeah, you can mix varnish to whatever combination you want.
Does that look how zenithal prime should? Not sure if I did everything correctly
>>93172518Green is also pretty interesting for yellow
>>93174044Could maybe use another layer from directly overhead to really push the highest values but it looks fine assuming your lighting is making the shadows more stark than they are in person.
The fact that people think contrast paint is special and that it it isn't just a specific level of pre-thinned regular paint with water is hilarious to me.
>>93172739Your argument basically boils down to be being assblasted when you post a chicken recipe on /ck and people are telling you "hey man, you should fix your marinade or your dinner is going to be dry as fuck". Don't take the high ground of "oh you obviously don't get how hard it is to remove primer", we get it, we're just saying that it's worth it to save the model you spent money on
I'm making a DW terminator ancient with the termie that comes with the starter box. What can I add to the left leg? I want to practice freehand, and I'm not sure what could fit.
How to make this look more like wood and less like brown paint?
>>93174219Pick something simple to begin with. Scrollwork is pretty easy because it doesn't necessarily have to be symmetrical.
>>93174187>The fact that people think contrast paint is special and that it it isn't just a specific level of pre-thinned regular paint with water is hilarious to me.
>>93174187at least put some effort in and call them diluted inks or something
Are these durable enough for gaming pieces?I'm thinking black with army painter air white over it because I've had bad experiences with spraying inks in the past.
>>93174336Yeah it's fine, I've been using them for years. Just switched over to Synelrez for a bit cuz I got a deal on it and it seems to be about the same though it doesn't smell as good.
Redpill me on gold. Going to paint a lot of chaos trim and I need something that will go over black in a single coat and is also durable enough to game with without a layer of varnish over it.
>>93174352>though it doesn't smell as good.rip lungs
>>93174336Sure, if you want them to peal off in one nice piece. I guess you could make some cool dark eldar skinned terrain pieces with the leftovers.in seriousness, I prefer the vallejo mecha primer.
>>93174389I wear a respirator, the smell lingers for a bit before it fully dries.>>93174380>go over black in a single coatlol, lmao evenPro Acryl Rich Gold is probably the closest to what you're looking for, even then it looks better over brown.
>>93174419>I wear a respiratorgood man
>>93174402Are you saying if I don't use a rattlecan they won't last?Why's the mecha primer better?
>>93174258Drybrush a lighter shade going in a single direction to help imply grooves in the wood?
>>93174258A series of drybrushes ranging from khaki to bone white (careful with the pigments piling up in the lighter paints) then using a wash to achieve the final stain color of the wood. You can then finish it off with another drybrush of one of the mid to lighter tones for the edging
>>93174380https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=26_1W7zR-cA&t=424s
>>93174301I challenge you to make contrast paint with regular paint and water.
I'm going to be doing up a marine with the cliche Alpha legion colours showing through damaged paint.I was going to do the marine as a Minotaur as the warm subdued brown should contrast well with the strong teal alpha legion sections I want.What would be yhe best way to approach this, paint the teal sections first and then the brown armour around them. Or just paint the mini fully in thr brown armour and add the revealed teal as "battle damage"?
>current weather is a little under 90f with about 55% humidityWould you spray prime in this? It'll be cooler later, but the humidity is going to go thru the roof.
>>93174380Why don't you want to use varnish?
New thread:>>93174890>>93174890>>93174890
>>93168255i fucking HATE dreadful visage it doesnt fucking do anythingi had to put on so many coats to try and see ANYTHING it would make duncan blushmade me think my pot was faulty stupid fucking paintits like im being disappointed by slaanesh herself
>>93174813Yes, I spray primer yesterday at 55% humidity 98F. It's the lowest humidity I've seen in a month so I had to take advantage of it
Would this be acceptable to use to hold my contrast paint? I heard I ought to not put them on my wet pallette, so I wiped this down with water to make sure there's no dirt or whatever.
What's the best bang for your buck space marines set in 40k if you're new to painting? Was looking at grabbing Primaris Intercessors since it seems to come with quite a few models
