Work in Progress, End of February Edition>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebinhttps://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD>WIP Tutorial Images Megahttps://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paintshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s>Paint thinning 102https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginnershttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM>Decal Like a Prohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c>How to Edge Highlighthttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk>How to use contrast style paintshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI>How to Paint with Tremorshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g>Airbrush Priming and Thinninghttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxEhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFghttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special wayhttps://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny>Previous Threads:>>97605414>>97589522>>97568566
>>97623555nice collage work anon.
I like the collage OP, somehow it grabs my attention and makes me go through each one by one. Although this one has some repeats.
>>97623555>>97623494thanks!>>97623494(posting again since it was at the end of last thread)Finally finished (outside of a few select grass placements and wash shading) my English and French early 1400's forces I have been working on for like a year. Pretty happy how they turned out!
>>97623645I was originally going to use just your army's picture as the OP for this thread, since they looked so nice - then I realized I had enough time to put together a collage before we hit page 10.These losers are just about done. I'm debating even bothering to put insignia on them, as I'd rather spend time painting nicer-looking things... but I'm getting tired of having to sub in a ancient Firstborn assault squad for games of Combat Patrol.
>>97623555love these collages
Skin for da B'rohg. Thinking about cutting out the rock and replacing it with a d20.
I made a new wash recipe I really like.>4 drops water>3 drops Deco Art Dura Clear Ultra Matte*>1 drop Liquitex Burnt Umber ink (any ink will do but that's one of the best)It has a Marine Juice sort of effect, and it will kill the shine on the mini while not clogging details. If you're gentle with your minis it's also essentially varnished afterwards.*not married to it but it's my current favorite, it's higher viscosity in the bottle so it doesn't separate like some others.
Ways to kill varnish fogging?
can someone explain the actual differences between the iwata hp-c, the hp-cr, and the hp-tr? I get that the r means it's part of the entry level revolution line but what is actually different about it? is the only difference between the cr and the tr the trigger design?
I tried to be more careful about paying attention to the light source for how the gems were shinning and it was a big pain in the ass and I think I would prefer to not do that anymore.
>>97624084How did you apply it? Can we get a pic?Olive oil is a traditional way but it never worked for me. Putting matte medium over it was more effective in my experience.There's a difference depending on how bad it is though. If it's frosted from too porous an application, then matte medium should help. If the matting agent clumped or collected in the recesses, there's not much you can do.
>>97624130It's really cool though. Good job.Unlike whoever designed this captcha, what the fuck.
reminder to stop calling it varnish if you are american. if you are esl I don't care about you and you are not invited to reply to this post.
0/10
>>97624179What do you call it, clear coat?It sure as hell ain't made out of a lac beetle.
stop samefagging your stale bait, faggot
>>97624197That wasn't a samefag I took the bait, sorry.
>>97624042why the varnish and not something like acrylic medium?
>>97624311Varnish tends to have better self-leveling properties. I've tried acrylic mediums and they tend to have more pooling.Matte also seems to have less pooling than gloss when used as a wash, from the exact same brands. I'm not sure why, it's what happened during my experiments.You can always experiment, that's the fun part, and if you're using different brands than I was, who knows what will happen?
I hope I didn't overdo the weathering. But it also means it's pretty much the end since next step is applying varnish.
>>97624353The weathering is very nice but I feel like this would benefit a lot from blacklining
>>97624363You mean thicker panel lining? I applied wash made out of oil paint before but tried to keep it more subtle. Maybe that was wrong and should go straight for contrasting black.
>>97624372>You mean thicker panel liningYeah. I might be wrong obviously but I feel it would look good
>>97624372>>97624378I can see what he means but IMO if it ain't broke don't fix it.
today's modeli want to put something silly for his base but not sure what yet, maybe a plushie?
>>97624431>maybe a plushie?What's the smallest Gryph-hound miniature you can find?
>>97624421with those sketch-styled scratches a more pronounced panel lining wold look good imo
>>97624444i should be able to sculpt a sufficently vague shaped plushie, don't like the idea of a gryphhound tho, id' rather do an owlbear or something from some other realm, or maybe a goblin?
>>97624339i was just wondering because I did something similar with water, matte acrylic medium, burnt umber ink and a little black acrylic paint. it never really got wet enough, so i was thinking of using something like flow improver instead of some water to make it a little more runny. i was trying to make something like nuln oil, just without the gloss.
>>97624179I think the language is historical. Varnishing is the verb for applying any protective coating, because the original protective coating was varnish. Probably because we are not woodworkers and so didn’t understand the difference.
When you are done samefagging your retarded bait, you are free to fuck off back to your containment.
>>97624467I don't use pure flow improver for a few reasons.A. It doesn't evaporate like water does. Say you put paint + flow improver on a mini. The only thing in that combo with water is a little bit in the paint, so when it dries it won't shrink that much. Having a lot of water in the mix means it will shrink when it dries, which prevents clogging details. (the lack of evaporation also makes the flow improver bottle really messy)2. It's easy to go overboard. Not objectively a problem but it's very potent and that makes it harder to deal with, and plays into:3. It reduces adhesion. Flow improver is essentially soap and you can break the paint's ability to bond, unlike water where even super thinned paint will stick once it dries.There is some flow improver in ink, so between that and the water you should have been able to make a decent wash. I would speculate you just didn't use enough water, it should be at least 50%. It's important to have some medium too though, so the wash flows evenly.
>>97624192I call it clear coat because that's what it says on the can in america, which you would (should) know if you're actually american and not just an esl that's irrationally mad that americans talk different than you.>>97624469I don't care what's historical because I'm not a historical reenactor or one of those "nonces" who thinks it's funny to talk like a 19th century englishman despite being from wisconsin. it's the 21st century and varnish is for wood.
Is the OSL ok? First time trying it with something else than blue plasma.
Should I drybrush before or after the wash/shade?
>>97624594After, like edge highlighting.
>>97624582I think it looks very comfy. meanwhile, I'm still cranking out some islands
>>97624594Yes. But if you're only going to do it once then after.
>>97624648needs a big statue island, christ the redeemer style.theres something comfy about a big statue in the sea, kinda spooky.
First time doing weathered leather>>97624648Awesome>>97624582Looks good and realistic
>>97624594Hot take, but doing the wash after the drybrush might smooth it out a little.
>>97624685I thought this is common knowledge? However if you do the drybrush smoothly enough aka use a soft bristle brush instead of something like those citadel pieces of shit it shouldn't really be necessary
>>97624594both
>>97624582the dividing line in the middle of the statue is too stark. also the opposite side should have more shadow
>>97624582all these areas should have penumbra or full shadow, and none of the fire colors
>>97624736>>97625066Thanks, I will try to correct this.
>>97624577I see your point, but in the same respect a “clear coat” is only for cars. So maybe the best way to say is to seal or finish it: I’m not even sure if the “varnish” we spray on minis is anything other than clear paint with a uniform surface finish.
>he's STILL trying to get his shit bait goingembarassing
>>97623555Anons... we need to try to pose our models in a way that lets baker make them like they're doing the spiderman pointing thing in the OP collage
>>97623555Man those OP collages are such a fantastic idea, thank you baker-san.>>97625357That'd be pretty cool, honestly
>>97623555>>97618921Sorry for the late replyI'm actually done painting one of the other 2 so here it is, just missing the base and some minor stuff.This would be my combi lieutenant kitbash. I unironically already own the standard gw model that came with the leviathan box, but I thought I'd rather have a more unique one for my army. It's a chimera of bits, starting from some phobos torso and legs, but he does have the right loadout and everything. Pretty satisfied with how he came out.
>>97625644Attaching the image would probably help with visual aid
>>97625644>>97618921And here's the last one, still in need of a couple more touches; an intercessor sergeant that, for once, actually displays the loadout he's usually played with. By far the simplest kitbash of the three
Can we get some recast info going, any Australians know of a good Russian recaster?I'm not paying this
>>97625700nice try, James
>>97625712Anon Russians don't care about james and bong cease and desists, only problem is put country baning Russian mail which is why I want to know if any Australians know any that can get through
Yuru anon, I failed you, I'm sorry, it was too much work to put decent bruises on joints, way too many of it, and not super accessible.>>97625654>>97625697This is so peak godamnit
>>97625654This right here. This inspires me to lock the fuck in.
>>97624084>>97624133Apparently you could just apply a gloss coat and work from there.
>>97625132it's not just for cars. the rustoleum and krylon clears in rattlecans that people use on their miniatures obviously isn't meant for cars. the same goes for products like cerakote and duracoat. you can call up basically any paint shop or place that does custom graphics in the country and ask them if they can spray "varnish" on plastic and they won't have any clue what you're talking about.
Almost done with my Empire stuff from last year. Two characters left.
primed the predator ive been restoring for the past week.
>>97625755Just buy a different cheaper non-GW ogre kit and play a non-GW game with them. That's the best way to get their prices down.
>>97625700Sculpt some yourselfIt's fun and easier than you'd think, provided you're making something that is expected to be an ugly abomination
>>97626484>just sculpt some perry tier ogres that not not been improved in 30 yearsBrilliant stuff
>>97626521No, sculpt some (You) tier ogres that will be yours and yours alone that will always give you a sense of satisfaction that just painting someone else's sculpts can't match
>>97625700>I could buy 5 ancient ogre models for $195>Or I could buy 22 for $190And I consider KoW to be overpriced as well. If you just want 5 ogre mercenaries, you have plenty of cheaper options. You could get the wargames Atlantic ogre landsknechts, any of the smaller KoW boxes or any number of the 3D printing digital stores. There's a few in Aus but if you want Eastern Europe, Ukraine does a lot of 3D printing, but the shipping from Europe is going to fuck you hard, so look for something local.
>>97625700>>97626664You can buy a 3d printer, a kilogram of resin, a litre of isopropyl, a UV flashlight and a set of ogre STL's for that same price.Join us, come on... it's cheaper in the end!
>>97625827Thanks anon. I like how you did the molten screaming faces>>97625932Glad to hear that man
>>97626678Really depends on your housing situation. Printing resin in an apartment is kinda dangerous and annoying. Also not really sure what you do with the waste.
lol I found a 10 year old tin of army painter dip, migh actually use it to speed up my hobby progress the next necrons and admech are getting dipped
>>97626714It's not your problem.
>>97626714No it is not, if you cook in your apartment, if you use febreze, if you use name brand laundry detergents, if you drive or take a bus, you expose yourself to far worse air quality contaminants.wear gloves, dont drink the resin. That's it.If you can afford it and choose not too out of paranoid ignorance then you shouldnt bitch about expensive minis.
>>97626768>dont drink the resinI dunno if I can stop myself
>>97626800The solution to pollution is dilution.So just drink lots of water.
>>97623555Should i buy the GSI Creo 270 or 289? I already have a cheap aliexpress for primming and topcoating
>>97625357memes are temporary
>>97626611Show the minis you sculpt for yourself
>>97626678I have a new heygears in the shed that I haven't even unpacked, but sometimes I want GW minis
>>97626960why when you can use rattle cans with zero set up, zero clean up, and no hassle
>>97627027Because rattle cans is more expensive and i would like to spray skintone too
>>97623923Progress on my 4 armed masturbation monster. Waiting for the layers to dry then going in for the hair and the rock, before touching up the skin again where the other paints touched it.
>>97624648Those look great, but maybe you could add some kind of dock, or a beach. I mean, people have to enter the islands somehow.
Should i get an airbrush with nozzle size 0.3 or 0.5mm for primming, basecoating and topcoating?
>>97627352I can't help you with your question for I do not airbrush, but 2 things1) Very cute model, excellent detail work on her lingerie pattern, those roses (assuming they are a rose pattern) are 100% on point. (would sof)2) plz scrub under your nails, for I am vomit
>>97627352I have a .3 and I don't think it actually matters that much unless you're freehanding. There are so many variables that you can put out plenty of paint with a .3, and you usually won't want to. Maybe a .5 would waste more paint.
>>976273520.3mm has worked well for me so far. i don't normally use it at full blast anyway, so I don't know why you would use a 0.5mm.
>>97627370Thank you>>97627377>>97627389I thought a 0.5 mm nozzle would distribute primer, paint, and varnish more evenly than a 0.3 mm nozzle ?
>>97627473You are welcome anon. Seriously great job I am super jealous of those details of roses. I tip my hat to you for your steady hand. (no hard feelings on your nails, I am a nail biter I cant stand shit on mine desu desu desu)
recast bros (and resin frens)is there anything better than super glue?its 2026we have dual cure resins yet we're still stuck with super glue?
>>97627570Here's the real secret: The best glue is also resin. UV resin, to be specific. Its a gap filler, its a glue, its 3d printing fluid, it does it all.Here's a censer and some purity seals I printed. There's 0 glue involved in the assembly of the censer. It's all resin.
>>97627595>UV resin,I tried this but it doesn't adhereMy guess is its fine with printed resin since its not entirely polymerised yetbut recast resin is all done
>>97627609>>97627595Why there are so many different version of UV glue? Which one is for gap filler, which one is for water effect, which one is for glueing?
>>97627624>Why there are so many different version of UV glue? Which one is for gap filler, which one is for water effect, which one is for glueing?probably dependent on viscosityyou can use them interchangeably I believe
>>97626368Nice basing anon.
>>97627473Imo, always use the bigger needle when you can, they don't clog as easily.
>>97627352I think .5 is recommended for primer. with .3 it can still work but some primers that are supposed to work out of the bottle will require reducing.
>>97627744I've been spraying Mr Surfacer with a .15 for a while because I'm usually too lazy to swap the needle nad never had any issues. Dunno about acrylic "primers", obviously.
>>97627018>but sometimes I want GW minisWhy?
>>97627240putting up the brush for the evening. any thoughts? (I need to watch where I stick my fingers to manipulate the model, I keep taking off flakes of paint on knees and other edges ;o;)
>>97627776NTA. They are the highest detail standard for models of 28mm size nowadays and are usually, although lately it's been debatable, of legitimately premium build quality that you can't get with the average consumer grade 3DP unit. Not shilling I fucking hate GW as a company but they do often have nice plastic.
>>97627822People who try to say GW models don't compare haven't tried other 25-32mm scale miniaturesSay what you will about their price gouging and monopose-ness, there's a reason why scale modelers always comment on how nice GW kits are when they try them out
>>97627822>legitimately premium build qualityare you talking about the minis that have nasty ass mold lines running right through the middle of extremely detailed areas, giant gaps between parts, and peg connections that don't fit without sanding?
>>97627744>>97627748I was spraying Vallejo "Mecha Color" primer just fine with 0.3mm needle, just added more flow improver than thinner (7 drops of FI, 3 drops of thinner per 10 drops of primer). But before that I sprayed just fine with 5 drops of thinner per 10 of primer so it should be fine.
>>97627862I think of blowing up GWs hq every time I have to clean mould lines on those ridged cables
>>97627822Detail just doesn't really mean anything to me. The models are so ugly. I really hate the style of most of their stuff. You can find better looking alternatives for a lot of their stuff even if it doesn't have as much detail. There's some outliers though. I do really love how their trolls in AoS look.
>>97627895Fair enough Anon, I won't twist your arm on that. I just enjoy the technical aspect of painting minis. If you don't care about details and plastic structural quality, 3DP blows GW out of the water.
>>97627895>You can find better looking alternatives for a lot of their stuff even if it doesn't have as much detail.People always say that but fold when I ask for examples. Not asking in bad faith or anything, I'm genuinely interested.
Finished the lads
Recently MTO Bjorn, fully metal vehicles are scary, feels like painting a brick.
>>97627835>there's a reason why scale modelers always comment on how nice GW kits are when they try them outThat's a bit wrong. A lot of scale modellers (me included) get surprised by how nice modern Citadel kits are, but that doesn't meant they are somehow great. Citadel stuff is slightly above average, yes, but they do ask for a premium price. Compared to say modern Takom, Meng, Hasegawa, MiniArt (and others) kits, it's still a day and night difference. All these have much, MUCH better and more detailed plastic, usually greater building comfort, way less cleanup, but also extra cool stuff like photo-etched parts, and more. And they ask for either roughly the same price or less.So yea, Citadel improved a lot over the years, but compared to the current golden scale model standard (let alone top class), they are still years, if not decades, behind. And that's talking about their modern kits. GW asking for a full price for kits like Devilfish or Land Raider, that's a complete travesty.
>>97628156NTA but you mention scaled models of vehicles - in terms of miniatures of people, GW stands ahead. When I tried getting some 1:35 or similar scale models from Tamiya or MiniArt, their guys were rather mediocre quality at best. Rainwear US dudes from MiniArt barely fits and will require serious gap filling while they lack elements for, say, gunbelts so I have to make them myself. If this is "high quality" then I'm afraid to think what is low.If I don't want yet another WWII guys, my only choices are basically Corvus Belli (which themselves are costly as well).
>>97623555So what do you do in that awkward moment when you are done with the mini, but don't like the color scheme as much as you thought?Like here I like this blue, but in hindsight would have switched the dark and brass on the splinter rifle. Maybe would have left the helmet and one of the pauldrons/knee pads not blue so it can be a tetriary color.
>>97628199Strip it and start again.
>>97628156citadel has good quality, but really shit choices when it comes to things like remembering someone has to paint the kit.not gundam kits, THOSE are fucking AMAZING, a joy to assemble, and no painted required , AND a mid sized one is about the cost of a GW character model 1/30th the size.
>>97628171Huh, how old was that MiniArt kit? Their older ones can be rough, but all the modern ones I have are great. That said, I've never built Americans, I only do Germans, so who knows. That said, I always liked Master Box when it comes to infantry. There's often a Citadel level tier of cleanup needed, yes, but the detail is just awesome.
>>97619983It's from Artisan Guild, I believe.
>>97628252No idea, honestly. It's this kit. If you say that Master Box is good, then I will try them next. I just want to do a single diorama in my life.
>>97628213Is that really viable with such fiddly parts as that rifle? Can't it just get a new coat?
>>97628299Tamiya's also usually good when it comes to infantry, but, as with any other brand, it often comes down to that specific kit, so research if beforehand. If you are buying locally, make sure it's not some ancient kit, too. A lot of small local stores sell shit that's older than most of the 4chan's userbase, and the quality is often not great.
New shark transfers from ebay, absolutely do recommend. Repulsor and Astartes technical rumbling on, a few recent assault intercessors in very old hats.
>>97628306Painting over it will always be uglier. Stripping is easy, even for small parts.
>>97628306You can probably just paint over it, especially if it's just one of a batch, just keep painting over it until you get a scheme you're happy with, do the rest of the squad/army/whatever and then come back and strip it if you still care
>>97627947I find Oathmark Elves, Dorfs and orcs look a lot better even if there's limited choice. Mantic undead are incredibly aesthetic and soulful. The problem with using proxies for Warhammer is that it just has so many units. I feel like most wargames just don't have that sort of variety, which is a blessing and curse for them really.
>>97628199It's just paint. You can put other paint on top of it.
>>97627822Nah whole quality certainly can be high there are better sculptors and minis out there, I just want some of the GW stuff I see sometimes
>>97627835>there's a reason why scale modelers always comment on how nice GW kits are when they try them outLmaoAre you serious? go buy a modern tamita or gundam kit, they literally shit all over GW
>>97627947Depends on what you want to compare
>>97628171>When I tried getting some 1:35 or similar scale models from Tamiya or MiniArt, their guys were rather mediocre quality at bestYou prob picked up a 20yo old kit, you need to check scalemates and see when it was tooled
