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File: Johnny got his backpack.jpg (2.11 MB, 5464x2975)
2.11 MB JPG
Emergency bake edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin:
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

Previous threads:
>>98255767
>>98244948
>>98236673
>>98226823
>>
How are Vallejo’s acrylic pigment binder and terrain fixer?
I’m more interested in the pigment binder but if the terrain fixer is a genuine upgrade over white glue whether it is school or tacky (if there is a difference) then I’d love to know.

Also this is stupid but how efficient is it to take dark pigments and mix with paints?
Is it worth it or not? I’m looking at black pigments in hopes it will darken gunmetal paints without the acrylic gunmetal then darkened losing the metallic look.
>>
>>98270276
Black/brown/blue inks work well with metallics.
>>
>>98270276
Mixing non metallic paint with metallic will diminish it's metallic effect. Tinting it inks is your best option, since they're transparent.
>>
File: 1782572417183.png (1.33 MB, 1044x901)
1.33 MB PNG
first prototype for modular ruins
>>
>>98270307
>>98270313
Thanks I have a black ink. I am unsure if I have a dark grey. But I now remember that to make white paint work better one should mix white ink with it instead of water if I remember correctly.
So if I mix black ink with say gunmetal does this mean the water properties or the black ink has “thinned” the gunmetal acrylic paint already?
>>
>>98270333
Assuming your ink is runny, sure. Though I don't thin metallics either way.
>>
Progress on my imperial fist captain
>>
>>98270370
Top part of the sword. Any advice to improve it? Cause I’m kind of stumped on what else I can do besides obsessively glaze and layer over and over again for marginal benefits
>>
>>98270378
add a highlight to the filament, clean up the edges of your highlights (some look a bit shaky right now), maybe add some extra detail/patterns for visual interest
otherwise, it looks pretty good
>>
>>98270332
Looks great, you could easily market those as a product, patent the fuckers
>>
File: secondb.jpg (36 KB, 327x411)
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Does any company make a coloured primer that's just a less obnoxiously yellow version of GW's Zandri Dust, or something like AK's Reddish Grey? I'm not buying an airbrush but Ideally I won't have to brush paint another vehicle as long as I live.

TTC Sandstone nailed the midtone I'm going for (heatwave delirium-inspired desert marines). Duncan may charge the earth but he made a tidy little paint there.
>>
>>98270386
>I'm not buying an airbrush
Why not? It would literally solve all your problems. It's not even that expensive, and much better value over time than rattlecans.
>>
>>98270378
Darken up the part near the hilt so it's not so scruffy. The small chips/lines don't make any sense as wear or shine and the blade would probably look better without them. The gradient and the etched writing is more than enough flair.
>>
>>98270398
It's also probably the best tool for painting models ever made. If you are serious with the hobby, get an airbrush, simple as.
>>
>>98270384
there's already a ton of magnetic modular buildings out there
>>
>>98270398

Seconding this. I thought I'd never get any use out of an airbrush because I thought I'd have to learn an entirely new skillset just to get to anywhere near the level I was at with regular brushes.

Never been so happy to have been wrong. Airbrushes are a legit game changer.
>>
>>98270384
Its rather high effort for what can be replicated with 3D printed STLs. Looks great though and its what everyone had to do before 3D printers.
>>
File: facedownassup.jpg (375 KB, 1581x679)
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>>98270398
This is not a £50+ problem. I'm just being a bitch after getting some repex PTSD that if I'm honest was caused more by ambitious modelling plans (yeah I'll leave a door open so I have to paint the inside before assembly, that won't be a problem, right?) than just putting brush to model. Large models and terrain haven't been quite so traumatic.
>>
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>>98270459
> before 3D printers
i do own a 3dprinter, but i can't stand layer lines or the work to hide them and design everything in cad (i also don't have the skills for proper sculpting)

this has the internal structure printed so the magnets will always match but everything else will be made by hand, i't easier to improvise shapes and stuff and imo it looks better than printed
>>
>>98270495
NTA, but my nigga, everything is better with a good airbrush. Don't buy cheap shit, and you'll love it, guaranteed. And you can do little details with it, too.
>>
>>98270522
It's like a fucking cult.
>>
>>98270533
>everyone is wrong but me
It's your hobby, do whatever you like.
>>
>>98270533
The key is to not turn into one of those airsloppers who only painted with air brushes and does cringe dynamic lighting paintjobs where they bukkake bright colors in 5 inch diameters around every lightsource.
>>
>>98270533
>I need to screw in 1000 screws, which screwdriver should I buy?
>dude, just buy an electric drill
>you people are a cult!
>>
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These guys are taking a bit longer than I was hoping
>>
>>98270451
I'm an airbrushlet who just bought an airbrush, compressor, and spray booth, but isn't sure where to set it up. I live in a pretty small apartment. Any suggestions? I have a small desk in my bedroom, but I'm not sure spraying in there is such a good idea.
>>
>>98270612
Is the spray booth collapsible? Some are, and it means that you can just take it out and set it up whenever needed.
You're right, you shouldn't set it up in your bedroom. Get a small table to make a workstation in another room, close to a window and with good ventilation.
>>
>>98270621(me)
Your airbrush workstation doesn't need to be close to your regular painting desk.
>>
>>98270621
It's this one from tamiya, the spray work painting booth ii.
My only other choice is in the living room next to the screen window. I think it should be easy enough to route the extractor fan out there.
>>
>>98270612
NTA but I have an airbrush in a small APT. my desk is next to my window so I open that shit, put on my mask, and put some newspaper on my desk.

I've never had an issue desu. I don't get why people need spray booths unless I've been slowly poisoning myself for a years idk.


>>98270386
>>98270495
>>98270495
if you're not getting an airbrush then just mix paints yourself and drybrush it on, idk what to tell you.
>>
>>98270673
>I don't get why people need spray booths
It's usually two reasons. Lacquers and/or not wanting to wear a respirator.
>>
Need help figuring out the right paint. I want to paint some stone features in the color of pink tuff stone. Anyone know of a good paint or process to get this color and look?
>>
>>98270573
I used to think "airbrush-slop" was an ironic thread meme but after seeing some bad paint jobs here and there on the internet I see it's very real. Idk which is worse, contrast slop or very lazy airbrush slop.
>>
>>98270370
Looks great
>>
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>>98270681
I dream of the day I can have a proper integrated airbrush and painting setup with a full size booth like pic related. I want to paint with lacquers and enamels as well as acrylics and to be safe I heard you should make sure to use a booth and wear a respirator as well.
Anyway thanks for the advice anon(s), I'll get a smaller more portable table and set it up on there in the living room.
>>
>>98270673
>I don't get why people need spray booths
what the other guy said, lacquer fumes
>>
>>98270685
Use an indian red or hematite or brick red add white tp pink it out, and orange in small amounts
>>
>>98270720
Respirator with correct filters (3M 6059, for example) + any non-utter-shit booth (something like PK-520 if you are Eurofag) is enough even for lacquers. The pic you've posted is awesome, but imo a bit of an overkill. You ain't spraying nitro paints or some hardcore solvent for printing that will liquefy your lungs if you whiff it.
>>
>>98269445
>This often happens if the mini was oily prior to priming/painting. It's a normal thing, especially if you were handling it a lot with your bare fingers. It's a good practice to wash your model with some soap and/or spray IPA on it before painting to degrease it. Old toothbrushes are good for this.
Is it safe to use a little IPA on milliput or greenstuff? I'd like to clean all of my minis before priming them.
>>
>>98270754
A note on respirators, if you can afford it be sure to get one with mesh instead of rubber straps. The mesh covers more of the back and top of your head but spreads the pressure more evenly. The cheaper ones with rubber straps will concentrate all of the pressure in a couple bands that will give you a splitting headache over time.

Also look up online how to do a fit test, most people make the straps way too tight when all you need is just enough pressure to make a seal.
>>
>>98270761
Yeah, it is. Just make sure it's fully cured and don't let it soak like overnight or something.
>>
File: 20260627_181248.jpg (1.12 MB, 2989x1849)
1.12 MB JPG
Currently /WIP/ing with my gf.
I build a Gundam (manly, cool)
She builds French Beaded Flowers (girly, cute)
Life is good.
>>
>>98270685
Martian ironearth. Wash with a pink shade, lightly drybrush some orange.
>>
>>98270780
Couples hobbying is so nice. My only issue is my girlfriend gets her projects much faster than I do, so all of our hobby spending goes to buying her a new project.
>>
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>>98270780
>>
>>98270353
I’ll try out the black ink with acrylic metallic paints when I get test model and a chance to do so.
>don’t thin metallic paints
What metallic acrylics are you using that let you get away with avoiding thinning? This is contradicting the sacred code of always thinning paints.
>>98270398
Nta but
What’s a good airbrush that not only punches above it’s price but can take the punishment of an inexperienced airbrush user?
Also when I was looking at airbrush tutorials I came across a channel called “the art workshop” his videos are a bit like sloptubers like making top ten list videos but more straight to the point and presentation is alright. Is his advice trustworthy if anyone here has experience following his advice? He might be more reliable since his videos seem for airbrush painters than miniature painters.
>>
File: IMG_20260627_194819.jpg (2.56 MB, 4000x2154)
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Sat down and resumed painting the knights. Found a brighter red from a lgs today. Happy with the tone, but they still need a lot of work.
>>
>>98270398
NTA, but I refuse to buy one out of spite. No question I've ever asked about painting hasn't had a bunch of you faggots swarming in to insist the ONLY solution is to buy an airbrush, buy an airbrush, why don't you just buy an airbrush, you're not a real hobbyist if you don't want to piss around with this one niche tool that nobody gave a fuck about until twats on youtube started shoving them in everyone's faces, blah blah blah.

So I refuse, and I insert myself into every discussion where airbrushes are mentioned and shit on them which inevitably causes airbrushfaggots to begin pissing and shitting everywhere thanks to your whole identity being tied up in your stupid fucking airgun, because wasting a small portion of your lives is recompense for all the times I COULD have gotten a simple answer to the question I actually asked but instead got jUsT bUy aN AiRbrUsH DuRrRrrR.
>>
>>98271025
>What’s a good airbrush that not only punches above it’s price but can take the punishment of an inexperienced airbrush user?
NTA, but HS Evolution. If you buy 2in1 it's basically the only airbrush you'll ever need, and that includes spraying hair thin detail like quite similarly to Micron, which is roughly four times the price. It's also not as moody as Micron (or Infinity), and much, much more forgiving if you are learning with it. It's also built like a tank and designed for easy maintenance and cleaning.
>the art workshop
He's alright. Excellent advice on cleaning and general maintenance, sincerely don't think there's a better approach than his. Very minimal shilling, imo.
>>
>>98270780
tomorrow I'm meeting up with my dad to start planning our joint model train layout (N-scale) so that'll be fun. should be able to start laying track in the fall.
>>
>>98270386
Ammo by mig sand flesh one shot primer maybe?
>TTC Sandstone nailed the midtone I'm going for
Vallejo idf sandstone grey surface primer might be the closest. I didn’t find anything else. Judging by the Vallejo site’s paint swatches mostly.

If all else fails there’s proacryl’s black brush on primer and then there is Armypainter’s grey brush on primer then you brush on the desired colors.

>>98271060
I think your anger is a bit too much. As much as I want an airbrush for priming, basecoats and varnishes I don’t like seeing “beginner friendly” tutorials whip out the airbrush. Most beginners aren’t going to have airbrushes until they know this hobby is for them and by that point they are no longer beginners unless they’ve been away from the hobby like a Lego adult fan’s dark ages sort of thing.

But can you vouch for any brush on primers and varnishes as a good backup to spraying means of priming? I’m surprised gw discontinued the “imperial primer” paint and never made brush on varnishes because British weather is said to be terrible and they try to beginner friendly to get the most hobby newcomers in.
>>
>>98271060
You are huffing your own contrarian farts a bit too hard, anon.
>>
>>98271025
>What metallic acrylics are you using that let you get away with avoiding thinning? This is contradicting the sacred code of always thinning paints.
Regular ones. I find the metal flakes don't respond all that well to thinning.
>>
>>98271060
>thanks to your whole identity being tied up in your stupid fucking airgun
Sounds to me like you're the one making hating airbrushes part of your identity.
It's a very useful tool, the end. It's not a silly youtube trend, just because they didn't get much use back in the day. Mini painting evolves.
>>
>>98271199
>just because they didn't get much use back in the day
Scale model boomers have been airbrushing for decades. If anything, minipainting is catching up.
>>
>>98271096
Which hs evolution? The regular or one with “0.45mm?”
Looks pretty promising. The black 2 in 1 looks like it is no longer being sold but I’ll admit my phone is slow so got annoyed searching.
>built like tank and designed for easy maintenance and cleaning
That’s what I wanted to see.
Alright I’ll look into it.
>bought my iwata allegedly from some search results
Should I hurry before iwata of the land of the rising sun makes h&s set? Or are we going to see some future good stuff if German and Japanese product quality memes have genuine merit?
>>
>>98271205
I meant for mini painting, they got lots of use in all kinds of other fields.
>>
>>98271206
This one https://harderairbrush.com/products/evolution-2024-2in1?variant=47135632163120
You get 0.45mm (which is great for priming, basing, varnishing, and larger models), and 0.28, which is great for hair-thin shit. You can pretty comfortably shade/do gradients on roughly space marine sized stuff from Day 1. Much smaller with some training.
>Should I hurry before iwata of the land of the rising sun makes h&s set?
Iwata has owned HS for about a decade now. HS had meh management in the past, and it improved vastly under Nipponese control. They are pretty good together. Speaking of Iwata, Eclipse is a good alternative, but I'm much more willing to shill Evolution, because it's a lot newer, and it shows.
>Or are we going to see some future good stuff if German and Japanese product quality memes have genuine merit?
Imo, airbrushes are fairly "complete" tech at this point. There are definitely things to improve, but if you go with Evolution and above, the brush won't limit you in any way.
I would even go as far as to say that airbrushes changed fairly little in the last fifty years or so. I already posted about a scale modeler from my country who is still using an HS airbrush (Grafo) made in the Third Reich. It's still chugging along eighty years later, the only thing that was changed were o-rings and the needle. Modern higher range HS (and Iwata) airbrushes will probably outlast you, too, if you take care of them.
>>
>>98269198
>>98269267
weren't directed at me but i've spent like two weeks on the same model and still not getting the results i wanted and i feel like someone saying "just paint and stop caring so much" shook me out of this funk enough to move on so thanks anon
>>
>>98271256
Thanks for the link!
I checked the iwata airbrushes and one looks like they’re trying to appeal to spray gunners.
Maybe that kind of airbrush will be the next frontier in airbrushes.
Though I do accept that the traditional airbrush design looks like an unbroken concept like the Ak rifle still working and still reliable.

>airbrush from the days Germany committed a continental school shooting after so much bullying
I don’t like that an airbrush has had a more interesting life than me but I’m pretty sold on this.
Thanks.
I’ll need to make a space for airbrushing at my desk.
Is a dedicated small desk for airbrushing a good idea? I might help Sweden’s economy by searching ikea. Any recommendations?
>>
>>98271271
>Is a dedicated small desk for airbrushing a good idea?
Yeah, but you can do without just fine. One larger table for all scale modelling needs is doable. I just spray over my cutting board and put a cardboard in the back. Occasionally clean the cutting board with cleaner and it's alright.
>>
File: IMG_1367.jpg (236 KB, 2516x795)
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Not super thrilled with the result but kinda over painting this guy. The awkward question is since he’s part of a Warband what do I do with the other ones.
>>
>>98271096
>not as moody as Micron (or Infinity)

NTA but how is Infinity "moody"? I thought it's pretty much the same as Evolution, just with different trigger and front covering.
>>
>>98270370
>>98270378
I thought he was dabbing until I saw the second image.
>>
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Enjoy what you‘re doing and you won‘t have to work a day in your life.
>>
>>98271314
Good shadows
>>
>>98270386
Any acrylic desert tan from a military paint line like testors will work, look for israeli desert if you want a greenish shade, sand for a lighter shade etc,
>>
>>98271314
>The awkward question is since he’s part of a Warband what do I do with the other ones.
Use one of the skin colors or the shadow color that you used here but mix it in with other colors. Make them all a little different, go slightly purple on a couple guys, brighter green on a couple others, maybe a hypothermia blue on another. As long as one color is shared they'll all look like they belong together in the end.
>>
>>98271350
It's generally more sensitive (from trigger to spray pattern), it's more prone to dry tip as the needle is a bit deeper (which also means a bit more difficult aiming), and generally speaking, if you mess something, it will let you know (usually by spitting or clogging). Evolution is more forgiving. It might not be as sensitive to every microscopic whim of your control, but it will chug along if you mess something up.
I have Infinity myself, and I love it dearly, but if I were starting, I would just get Evolution. It can do basically the same stuff, and the extra few percent of performance you get from Infinity is paid for dearly by it being more demanding of the user. Still, I would say if there's one thing Infinity is without challenge, it's the needle limiter design.
>>
>>98271385
actually really appreciate that. my main goal going in with this one was to really focus on and accentuate shadows. risked going too gimmicky and unnatural looking but felt like i learned a lot from the exercise.

>>98271397
and yeah was thinking something along these lines. or even doing like one other guy in a purpley scheme like this and then doing a different scheme for the other three. pulling the same colors but used/mixed differently is a good idea though
>>
>>98271361
Did you hand sculpt that or is that an stl?
I know of tortuga bay’s thunder warriors and makerscult and there’s another one.
They all have their problems but one is only in resin, the other is too legally distinct and the other got the gw dmca so some are hard to find.

Also you did good on the color choices. Most tw always get the Blanche colors.
>>
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>>98271478
It's an stl by HeroicScale. Tortuga Bay is fucking expensive, but the Tempest Legions look pretty sick. However, I only got an FDM printer and I don't think it could handle those. I probably won't get more of them though. It's just that every once in a while I like painting a space marine.
Also, there's a coat of gold paint under the black. I think the dark scheme fits the mini well.
>>
>>98271567
Compared to this guy, you can tell I went a little overboard with the primer.
>>
>>98271573
probably just the FDM vs Resin printer instead of over spray
>>
>>98271615
Believe me, it's primer and paint. FDM isn't that bad when you have an stl that doesn't need many supports. I'm printing another guy right now, I'll post pics when he's finished.
>>
>>98269158
>Everything looks chalky and low quality.
this is because you are slacking on fundamentals. there's no shortcut to getting better at it. you just have to sit there and grind it out with focused effort. you should be painting sprues, extra bases, and even plastic spoons or pieces of carboard to get as much practice in as you can before working on your miniatures. people want the instant gratification of seeing painted models and don't want to put in effort on something they can't show off, but there's no substitute for practice.

>>98269452
>>98269445
if your primer application is fucked putting more shit on top of it isn't going to fix it

>>98270333
if you mix ink with your metallic it will make the metal flakes more diluted and ruin the metal look. you want to thin metallics as little as possible in general.

>>98271025
https://spraygunner.com/products/gsi-creos-mr-airbrush-procon-boy-ps-289-0-3mm-platinum
>>
>>98271060
I was like that once, too. But ultimately it's just another tool, suitable for one use and not for others. When someone recommend it, they usually mean it as it really do help with many effects, large surfaces, batch painting, primers and varnishes, etc. It's not suitable all the times and most their users combine them with other tools. Myself I simply incorporated it into my workflow, along with brush and sponge, oil paints and drybrush techniques.

That being said, Im still salty internally and would rather prove they are not needed but I can't fight facts or deny that I was wrong.
>>
>>98271883
you dont need an air brush. sufficient skill and time can replicate the effects seamlessly. BUT for a normal painter, its just a cheat code. it does make things easier. it does speed up and lower skill barrier. you're right in saying its another tool, its the gradient tool. you can make a gradient with slowly blending or you can click and its done
>>
>>98271567
>heroicscale
Very good name as I can’t find it therefore gw’s legal team can’t.
By chance do you know the /3dpg/ encryption to give me a link please?
The amount of thunder warriors options makes me want to get into blender and do it myself with my awful tastes.
>>
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>>
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>>98271935
>>
>>98271942
i should really break out my KD game to paint and play
>>
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Wakka wakka
>>
>>98272199
feel like you have a really good tabletop paint style feels really vibrant and saturated but at the same time blends well as like a dusty battlefield army aesthetic
>>
>>98270522
>Don't buy cheap shit
if your goal is to get your priming, zenithal and basecoats down nice and fast there is simply no need to buy an expensive airbrush. my chinkbrush justwerks and only cost 50 dollarydoos
>>98270673
>>98270681
>>98270720
>>98270754
the pearl clutching about lacquer paint is always funny. respirators are like seatbelts, they're for fags.
>>
>>98272244
Low IQ, the post
>>
>>98272244
Posts like these make me feel smart.
Growing up around rednecks who have fucked up eyes, digits, and backs. Made me aware of how being too "cool" for safety, really is one of lowest bars in life to overcome.
>>
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Alright, tried adding to those Ork Boyz I started up a couple weeks ago. Yes, I know they're shit. Now, would anyone have any recommendations on what to do with axe blade colours? Pants too.

I figured I might as well leave it black or just edge highlight something metallic for the blades but I don't know. Also fuck I need to move my stuff. That attic is a goddamn sauna.
>>
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>>98272366
(And left posed differently for better exposure of the plating on his face.)
>>
>>98272366
Use your brown/bronze metallic for the axe shaft, then your silver (or whatever it is) it is for the head.
>>
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Started painting this big lad I finished putting together the other day, waiting on some lead shot to weight his base and stop his fat-ass metal klaw tipping him over
>>98272366
There's nothing wrong with having the blade and the haft be the same colour lad, half the lads probably just bolted an axehead to a pipe.
Id recommend a wash on both the weapons and skin though, they'll go a long way to adding depth
>>
My first model in about a year. My take on the new Skitarii Hastarii.
>>
>>98272423
Fair enough. I just wanted it to blend nicely with the rest of the weapon.
>>98272451
Washes were my next objective once I cleaned everything up and nabbed all the details. But thank you both for the advice.
>>
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And the one ol' ghost was fat, hoho
And the other ol' ghost was thin, heehee
>>
I've already asked in the WF general, but it probably makes more sense to ask here.
how do I take good full army pictures? I can take decent picture of units, single/multiple models. But for my full (and growing) army I'm always kind of stuck.

Is it even possible, past a certain size?
>>
>>98272618
Build a diorama for your display cabinet
>>
I was just varnishing my best work yet and the fucking spray goes off like a fire hose and has ruined the mini. What can I do anons? Am I just fucked?
>>
Done for now. Will redo the eyes eventually but I cba at the moment.
>>
>>98272618
>blue dwarves
Embarrassing
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>>98272618
do this >>98272683
>>
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>>98272788
I love my blue and green dwarfs and you can't make me change my mind.

>>98272683
I'm definitely not opposed to a display diorama. But there's no way that a diorama would bot fit all my models and also fit into the rather narrow space between the shelves
>>
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What paint(s) would you recommend if I wanted to get a blue like this?
>>
>>98272918
blue
>>
>>98272199
Did you prime with a brown primer, or was that just a basecoat?
I love how the Orks' skin came out.
>>
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>>98272918
The brighter blue here is Vallejo ultramarine 70.839, the darker is Vallejo Blue 70.925
>>
>>98272923
Silly
>>98272937
Thank you kindly. I'll keep my eye out for those next time I'm out
>>
>>98272772
You can just varnish over varnish to fix any finish issues, if you have huge globs of it fucking up the shape though you've gotta strip it to fix that
>>
>>98270370
Yellow recipe?
>>
>>98270498
Cool and clever
>>
>>98271137
Is your dad your gf?
>>
>>98271314
High quality paint job brother. For the others just do various colours , look up bruises, diseases, wounds, corpses etc for inspo.
>>
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>>98271361
What if I enjoy working a day in my life?
>>
>>98272772
>What can I do anons?
learn how to use a rattlecan. how the fuck are there so many people who struggle with this?
>>
>>98272772
I exclusively use Mr. Hobby Super Clear Matte now. It's a bit harder to source, but goes on well every time and the end result doesn't even look varnished. Varnish is one of the things I am super picky about.

For your situation, try spraying some gloss varnish on, give it a day, and see if things are clear, then matte varnish again. This works sometimes.
>>
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>>98270717
thanks

>>98272974
prime light grey, they spray it all with vallejo squid pink, then spray the top with TTC trooper white like a zenithal highlight, then Imperial fist contrast paint all over. All this was done via airbrush.

After the imperial fist dried, I mixed 60% nu-Vallejo sun yellow and 40% imperial fist together and did some light spot highlights on stuff like the kneepad, chest, gorget, toes,vambrace, backpack, etc. After that I got old vallejo Ice yellow, mixed it with the sun yellow and layered it very lightly over the sun yellow highlights.

more or less followed the procedure of this video but used my own colors. You can use magenta or pink or brown for the undercoat. I might try brown for my next model.

https://youtu.be/AFG0M1afhes?si=vbx7pl9hUzD0PngY

pic rel is one I did purely with a brush and the AP john blanche paints for the yellow and green. It's what I imagine a brown undercoat would look like with Imperial fist contrast
>>98270400
I think I can manage to darken the hilt, I'm gonna leave the scratches though. they're pretty light anyway.
>>
>>98272470
Skitariioli, Skitariioli, Give Me The Hastariioli
>>
>>98272618
Fucking kino as all hell anon
>>
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>>98272772
spray can? Once two of my cans jammed on me back to back a years back, I bought an airbrush setup in my rage.

It's worth it just for priming and varnishing. Vallejo ultra matte is my favorite.

>>98271314
It looks scary which is what I think you were going for. Personally I like high contrast styles but you seem to be aiming for subtlety. maybe highlight the two fangs a little bit more? A tiny white dot on each eye?

Is it done? the back looks unfinished
>>
>>98271269
You're welcome anon, it's easy to be hyperfixated on details and therefor waste time of them because you don't have the experience to make it look good anyway.

The best way to acquire said experience is to be carefree and try something new while accepting you can only improve one very small simple step at a time.
>>
new thread reminder that in america varnish is for wood and if you are american you should call the stuff you put on your miniatures clear coat. don't let europoors without air conditioning control your language.
>>
>>98273095
this mans got it. bought my airbrush for the same reason, just to escape the rattle
love the knight.high contrast and extra matte. beaut
>>
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>>98271942
Closer to done
>>
>>98273309
This reminds me ... I need to find a good clear coat for this guy.

I have some Mr. Hobby stuff left over and some AP Anti-Shine, but I want the metallic gold stuff to still be metallic after I spray him. I'd rather not have to go through and repaint all the gold parts just to keep the scribbles on his purity seals from rubbing off.
>>
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Some un-helmeted Blood Angel heads under construction.
>>
Bottle says varnish.
>>
>stand up from painting all day
>spine feels like it's about to pop out of my body

fuck. i think i got old.
>>
>>98273479
Sometimes after I sit for hours at anything from computer stuff to painting miniatures, I get a bit of a butt ache after standing up.
I need to get a better chair or have a timer of some sort to remind me to stand and stretch. But a timer might startle me.
>>
>>98273479
>back pops from breathing in
Take care of your back anon.
>>
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>>98271269
I'm just starting my painting journey proper as that's where I'm at mentally
>fuck it and just paint
Spent years not painting anything due to the usual smatterings of concerns and insecurities
I know I'm making mistakes and will continue to do so, I know the finished product isn't going to be close to what I envisioned, I know it's going to be messy, but doing and finishing is far better than the endless paralysis from seeking perfection
>>
I havent felt like painting for the last couple months so I did the sensible thing: I kept buying even more minis.
May God help me.
>>
>>98273676
I probably have over a hundred unbuilt unpainted minis

I can only finish like one or two a week
>>
I saw a thread about the grimdark painting style.
I thought. Ak changed the streaking grime enamel wash. Did they revert back?

What are all of your thoughts on grimdark and what really makes it done right instead of just throwing the model in a pool of brown or black wash or dumping the enamel wash on it?

Is there a way to truly meet a middle ground between grimdark and the eavy metal style?
>>
>>98273719
>paint mini in acrylics
>varnish
>do enamel wash
>wipe away excess with latex sponges
>dip a small brush in your solvent and wick out
>use the damp brush to remove the enamel wash completely where you want to highlight
>can do edge highlights in this manner with the shading of an enamel wash
>>
why is miniature painting considered different from scale modelling? are they not fundamentally the same thing?
>>
>>98273729
>latex sponge
Is this better than cotton swabs material wise? I would love to know if good reusable cotton swabs exist and if latex sponges can be as small as cotton swabs.
>>
>>98273732
Not really
>>
>>98273756
what is different? it's just painting small versions of big things, only the big versions of game minis are fictional so you have to use your imagination.
>>
How do I get mould lines off a model? I use the back of my exacto knife but it does fuck all I the long run.
>>
>>98273766
Semantics.
>>
>>98273786
so the difference is only semantics? why so much division between the two then?
>>
>>98273754
I buy cheap latex makeup sponge wedges online and cut them up with some scissors. Get 5 or 6 little sponges out of each one so a bag goes a long way. You get the latex because they wont crumble and get crumbs in your paint. They're also a lot softer than cotton swabs so less chance of wiping primer off and no chance of leaving cotton fibers stuck to your mini.
>>
>>98273784
Back of the knife to get the majority, fine sanding stick to smooth out the rough spots, then (on a plastic model) use your plastic glue brush to gently brush any spots that arent quite smooth enough.
>>
So am buying an airbrush. But have a few questions, watched some videos but there's always contradictory info.

Do I need a primer or just any paint is fine to use to prime?
Using non "air" paints, how do thin do you need to make them? Is just water fine or do you need those flow improvers?
Is there really much quality difference? Or is buying the Vallejo model/colour air fine?
>>
>>98273805
Because people are retarded. Arbitrary arguments make people feel good about themselves.People are tribal and like to be part of a team.
>>
>>98273879
>Do I need a primer or just any paint is fine to use to prime?
Primer isn't quite the same, but it does help. Mind that you need time for it to cure, Vallejo's ones want around 12 hours. A 60ml bottle of primer can also last you roughly 200 MEQ models and then some, shit's crazy efficient compared to spray cans.
>Using non "air" paints, how do thin do you need to make them? Is just water fine or do you need those flow improvers?
A fraction of the amount of paint you're putting in. The aforementioned brand's own suggests 1/4 parts thinner, but not all paints are equal, and I've seen people use a more generous amount when mixing their own paints up. Flow improvers are basically retardant for the purposes of trying to stop clogs, but they can be useful. Those are used in 1/3 parts.
>Is there really much quality difference? Or is buying the Vallejo model/colour air fine?
If you can master it, thinning gives you way more options. Being said, some airbrush paints can be applied with a brush just fine, they might be more convenient if you're painting an army, and I know some people even have luck with just casually shoving in Contrast/Speed/Xpress/etc paints into their airbrush. It Depends™.

Definitely get dropper bottles if you insist on GW's air paints for any reason.
>>
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>>98273879
>Do I need a primer
yes. prime the model. let it cure fully then use regular paint

>using non "air" paints
it depends on the paint and brand. You may be able to get away with water for some brands but I suggest getting dedicated airbrush thinners or flow improvers. Vince Venturella uses a mix of Vallejo's 80% flow improver and 20% airbrush cleaner but the airbrush cleaner makes my nu-vallejo paints seperate so I've since switched to just flow improver for that brand.

>buying the Vallejo model/colour air
not sure since I only own Vallejo model air steel. I never buy purely air paints.
the most important thing is actually cleaning the airbrush and caring for it. Don't let paint dry in the nozzle and keep the tip of your needle safe. When cleaning it in between paints, use alcohol and then rinse it with water. Don't spray the alcohol out of the brush. Back-feed it by covering the nozzle with your hand or thumb so the air shoots back out and bubble in the cup (like gargling mouth wash). Then dump it out the top into your water cup.
>>
>>98273095
I wanted to do more on the back, there’s a little more color variation going on irl that the camera washed out and flattened but it was mostly an issue of struggling to make the back look like it’s entirely in shadow while still getting some visible definition. Kinda backed myself into a corner of accidentally desaturating the front so much so I couldn’t really play too crazy with shadow colors on the backside. At a loss of where to take it next
>>
>>98272585
Looks cool anon, but you're better off asking for feedback instead of singing.
>>
>>98272781
Very nice, I know how small these are. The NNM on the trims is a bold move and it worked.
Too many value switches on the sword in my opinion.
>>
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>>98271726
not great but not terrible either

>>98271923
The name‘s terrible, yeah. I subbed to the patreon for a month, the guy does mostly grimdark stuff.
>>
>>98273931
>>98273927
Thanks anons
I'll get some primer and follow the thinner/flow guide and see how that goes.

Won't be using citadel, have used Vallejo for normal painting and quite like them and they're cheap so was looking to stick with them
>>
Space Marine head
>>
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asked in another general but this is probably a more appropriate thread

has anyone here worked with scale75, and specifically their metallics?

i've been watching some of cult of paints tutorials, and he frequently uses this color for a really good looking dark gold, but i've heard scale 75 is formulated with a different medium and requires some extra considerations when working with it.

is it okay for brush on? can i think it with water or do i need a special medium to thin it? hows the coverage on scale75 paints?
>>
>>98274036
thin it with water*
>>
>>98273879
>Do I need a primer
yes, especially for acrylic paints
>how do thin do you need to make them?
as much as is required for it to spray right. it depends on the specs of your airbrush, the brand of paint, and even the color. there is no universal rule that will always work. you should keep a notebook with mixing ratios for every paint you use.
>>
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greenstuffed some gore on the head/boot and i am fairly pleased with how it came out
>>
>>98274036
I answered you in that general. Don't thin metallics. The only practical difference using scale 75 metallics and other brands is the alchemy paints have to be layered on top of the base metallics (decayed, necro gold) as they have awful coverage on anything else.
>>
>>98273879
lacquer primer is the best. people shit their pants in rage arguing over why their chosen acrylic primer doesn't suck but the truth is they all do suck and lacquer is the way to go for priming.
>>
>>98274074
>Don't thin metallics
bait
>>
>>98274074
>dont thin metallics

that cant be true. half the metallics i've used from various brands have the consistency of glitter glue
>>
>>98274078
metallics work because the flakes are suspended in the paint medium. reducing it lowers the density of the flakes and could also increase drying time which would give the flakes more time to settle into a single layer. it makes sense that you would want to thin your metallics as little as possible.
>>
>>98273931
What mini is that?
>>
Anyone else feel kinda bad for all the new people who played some warhammer video game and decided to try out painting minis and then finding out the hobby is actually really hard?

Anyways what advice would you give them?
Here's a few things I wish I knew when I started

-Don't buy bad tools. Invest in good clippers that will last you a long while. Don't get stuff like mouldline removers when you can just invest in a good knife instead
-Learn how to properly clean a model, how to fill gaps and how to sand
-Don't cheap out on a brush. Invest in a quality kolinsky sable brush with a springy fine tip, and learn how to clean and maintain it. I started with a cheap one and it would drive me mad how it would constantly fray. Use a brush you don't care that much about for metallics though

And then there's this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=torvIsZqp68
>>
>>98273945
Thanks anon, and thanks for the advice. You're always welcome to give feedback, of course. My understanding is that that is implied by on this board even if not explicitly stated. The truth is that the intention to share the mini pushes me a bit to improve and finish it, and so far that has almost as meaningful as the feedback I've received here and elsewhere.
>>
>>98274133
no but I feel bad for people who played dawn of war and then found out the game is primaris shit now
>>
>>98274102
Looks like Rex from the fallout miniatures game
>>
>>98274133
Best advice at the start I think is to do what keeps you painting. Along with use a cheap synthetic for your first few models and practice. Many of those lessons will be learnt personally which makes them stick better. I'm curious, do you have a friend in that situation and want to help them, or is it a hypothetical? The level of advice that people have an appetite for varies person to person, and I've found that with some people leaving them to figure it out on their own, until they ask specific questions, is best.
>>
>>98274133
I don't feel bad for them. They're discovering a new hobby and that's exciting. As long as that doesn't make them instantly quit (in which case they may have not really been going to stay long anyway), some level of realization and then stepping up to the challenge is necessary and good to navigate.
>>
>>98273331
This is so cool anon. The layering up of the flesh makes it look so striking, and the neatness of the fur is veey impressive. I'm curious if an airbrush was used at all, outside of the priming, or if this can be achieved with only brush
>>
>>98274157
I played dawn of war back in the day, and knew a bit about 40k but never delved deep into it. Always sort of wanted to when I had some disposable income. I bought in last year and don't play it, but I do enjoy the painting. I'm somewhat interested in kill team, largely because there's a budding community for it here and the folks seem nice
>>
>>98273879
>Using non "air" paints, how do thin do you need to make them?
Everyone will tell you some vague thing "like milk" and shit, but it ultimately comes down to the range, and even the individual color. You'll get an eye for it after a while. Generally speaking, 1:1 paint : thinner/flow improver is a good starting point. The airbrush will tell you if it needs more/less thinning. Vince's mix (80% thinner + 20% flow improver) is also a great starting point to thin your paints.
>Or is buying the Vallejo model/colour air fine?
Vallejo's fine. Don't get stuck with one brand, though. Pretty much the only company I wouldn't recommend is AP, since a lot of their paints are just absolute ass through an airbrush. Contrary to popular belief, it is a good idea to thin airbrush paints too, just much less.
>primer
Vallejo is alright, I personally like VMC the best.
>>
>>98274102
Rex from the "Fallout: Wasteland Warfare - Ed-E, Rex and Veronica" kit by Mōdiphüs entertainment.
>>
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You support Norf FC, lad?
>>
>>98274093
keep your brush hydrated and don't have too much paint on the brush. recharge often. don't slop it on. thin paint is not actually the solution to many problems, it's just a tired meme.
>>
>>98274133
You should probably paint longer than a few months before handing out dogshit advice like this. "Buy good clippers" fuck off back to gundam generals, idiot.
>>
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Current WIP. I want to create a dusty Baneblade diorama where the tank and the crew are getting ambushed by chaos mutants.
>>
>>98274217
t. craftsperg
>>
Is +35 degrees Celsius too hot for priming?
>>
>>98274256
What does the t. mean?
>>
>>98274284
T. Newfag
>>
>>98274282
I primed yesterday in that and it turned out well. Was relatively humid too.
>>
>>98272873
Soul
>>
>>98274292
Thanks, I don't recall seeing this used around 2013 which was when I last used to frequent this board.
>>
>>98271567
Yeah I liked Tortuga's but the price made me laugh, puts forge world prices to shame
>>
>>98274153
Just saying, people are more likely to respond if you ask a question.
>>
>>98274313
I understand and appreciate that, but I'm not really fishing for responses as much as sharing my WIP. The general idea is that people will of course point out mistakes if they see them, but if no one says anything I assume people liked it and understand my relative skill level.
>>
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>>98274292
>when the internet was whiter.
take me back bros
>>
>>98274133
>then finding out the hobby is actually really hard
It's actually easier than it's ever been. The amount of tutorials online now and the quality of them for pretty much any hobby you can think of is insane.

If you want an easy good looking battle ready mini in an hour you can probably find a speed painting tutorial for just that.

If you want to learn all about painting in depth there's also way more information online for that as well.

My main advice would probably be to use a reference for what you want your minis to look like and work based on that instead of just vibes.

Also get an airbrush if you're doing space marines because it lets you do smooth gradients on flat surfaces that would take years of painting experience otherwise.
>>
>>98274166
It's more hypothetical. Statistically, many people try out the hobby and then give up after a short while when they figure it's not as easy as they though it would be

>>98274396
The problem isn't the lack of information, it's how to find it, and sifting the bad information from the good
>>
>>98272451
what mini is this? Cool mini and paint job
>>
>>98274410
>Hypothetical, statistical
Do you happen to have some stats, by any chance? I assume you're making a generalization but I would actually really like to see numbers if you have them. In my friend group, the people who got into painting through TTRPGs generally don't bounce, but I can't speak for the warhammer numbers. I imagine there is something about being overwhelmed by needing to paint a whole army compared to your single character at play
>>
>>98274396
>airbrush for beginner space marine painters
Airbrush is too much of an upfront cost and new skill to learn. Coloured rattle cans and beauty blenders solve the problem much more approachably and is more budget-friendly for a beginner, imo
>>
>>98274481
NTA, but this is a wrong mentality. If you are serious about the hobby and you actually want to improve, get an airbrush, simple as.
And you don't have to believe me, even Vince says this.

Rattle cans ultimately come a lot more expensive, too.
>>
>>98274494
Disagree, we're talking about absolute beginners and bouncing off of the warhammer hobby because of the high entry level difficulty of painting, not about serious painters serious about improving.
>>
>>98274502
Well, but where's the line in the sand, though? I bought my first airbrush like three months into the hobby and I don't regret it.
I do have a shelf of half-used rattle cans just gathering dust, though.
>>
>>98274502 (me)
Actually, re-reading >>98274133 it does appear that anon is talking about bouncing off of painting, not bouncing off of warhammer, so perhaps I am wrong for dismissing the airbrush suggestion. I have a few friends I paint with, though, and one of them has straight up told me that if an airbrush was mandatory he would probably not paint, since he doesn't have the space for it in his small apartment.
>>
>>98274525
I think the line in the sand, so to speak, is in what keeps you painting those first three months. Out of curiosity, if someone said it's really important for you to get your airbrush before you finish your third mini, would that have encouraged or discouraged you? And would you have done it or waited and got it when you felt comfortable with the idea and the investment? I think investment-appetite is a big variable here, since I'd call airbrushing an intermediate skill, not a basic one.
>>
>>98274525
You don't need multiple rattle cans, though. If you're painting blood angels, get a red primer and makeup sponge (optional). It'll carry you through your first mini and first army much more simply than an airbrush, then you can go for more advanced paint jobs next time.
>>
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>>98274185
All trad, no airbrush.
>>
>>98274542
>would that have encouraged or discouraged you?
Encouraged, because it's a 1) new thing to learn and that's already enough, and 2) one that can make a lot of stuff way better and easier. Again, if one believes he'll be sticking with the hobby, there's imo no early limit whatsoever.

>>98274558
>You don't need
That depends on user case. You can do basic zenithal with cans (which is what personally brought me to airbrushing), and you need at least two colors for that. Ideally more, if you want to do colored zenithal-ish shading.
>>
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I thought this model sucked until i built it now i think its awesome...this is a common pattern with me and gw minis

Im almost always impressed more when i get it in my hands
>>
>>98274562
Absolutely love it. I'm also a no-airbrush masochist (not really, I'm like >>98274529 and don't have space for one), so hearing you can get this level of quality with a brush (and more, that there are people who find it satisfying to do so) is massively encouraging. Thanks for sharing anon
>>
>>98274569
I will never understand what they were going for with a double underhanded grip. Makes him look like he's struggling to carry his staff
>>
Boy I miss being completely new to the hobby and being blown away by even the most mediocre paintjobs.
>>
>>98274576
>select
>duplicate
>mirror
>>
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>>98274576
One of my thoughts exactly originally

But in person i kinda get the feeling that he is lost in a magical surge and its not that awkward
>>
>>98274579
this lmao
>>
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Baptised in nuln oil.

Should I still be doing edge highlights for the underside of the hull, or only the topside bit?

Also thinking about adding some turquoise rust effects but that might be a bit ott.
>>
>>98274564
>encouraged
Hmm, fair enough. I know I'd have been discouraged, but I paint on the go, so I think we have different values.
>zenithal
Ah, certainly, if you're going for an approach that relies on sprays, you would want more than one colour available. It sounds like your approach leans heavily on the airbrush's strengths, so definitely the right choice in your case.
>>
>>98274585
>Should I still be doing edge highlights for the underside of the hull, or only the topside bit?
Its a style choice, up to you.
https://youtu.be/ExVQH3QUbbo
>>
>>98274580
Yeah, reading it as the same. Kind of like how the classic werewolf howl pose has both palms facing upwards, claws out. Makes it look less civilized, and just a little weird, as he's emptying his lungs. Maybe it's cope, but I do think it has a bit of character
>>
>>98274481
Doing base coat + main highlight colour on airbrush isn't too difficult.

I've only recently got back into the hobby after 15 years and it was a gamechanger for me because you basically lock in your highlights and shadows from the get go and it really teaches you how you should be painting light on your minis.

I spent hours trying to stipple highlights on space marine armour and it would always look shit and not be placed correctly - after doing 20 space marines volumetric highlights with an airbrush it's something that comes a lot more naturally.
>>
>>98274580
>pestigors
Those models are amazing. I'm starting to understand why trad artists like drawing fatties.
>>
>>98274594
Thanks anon. I admit, though, given the responses so far, and other posts in the meantime, I'm more inclined to file space marines under the airbrush-check category, rather than being convinced that an airbrush is a necessary tool for a beginner. It certainly seems a force multiplier for styles that benefit from it, though.
>>
>>98274577
Is this in response to something someone said, or just a general sentiment? If the latter, I know what you mean! It's really cool though, because it shows a bit about how far you've come and how much your critical eye has improved.
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>>98274481
where i live a chinkbrush and a chinkpressor can be had for less than $200 to get you started on airbrushing whereas hobby grade rattle cans that come in nice colours you might actually want to basecoat an army in cost $30-40 each. maybe the maths is different in your local economy but i doubt it. there's also the issue of colour matching rattle cans to a bottle of paint for touch ups later, this is not possible for all rattle can ranges and if it is you still have to buy the bottle of paint matching the spray can. the age of the rattle can is over.
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done with this lad, apart from that one fucking hair
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>>98274618
The roid vein, you mean? :P
Looking good anon, nice and clean as always
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>>98272932
I used an olive primer then dark jade over everything with zenethal of burnt red then rootpath

The skin is just varying opacities of army painter leafy green

I was somewhat inspired by ninjons underpainting and its an evolution to slapchop for sure

Mostly i paint like this because i hate basecoating and want my mini looking good in color asap before i even pick up a brush
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>>98274616
I paid €10 for a single rattle can, €2 for 4 makeup sponges, about €100 for a combat patrol, and about €30 for freestanding paints, and it got me through my first year of painting no problem. If you are already invested, and know you are going to stay, definitely agreed. But I don't think it's sensible to advise a new person that they need to double their initial investment off the bat. It seems clear that others feel differently? But for me that airbrush wouldn't have been worth it or what made me stick with the hobby if I was otherwise burning out, since I already felt ~€150 was a hefty investment.
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>>98274630
Solid results anon, looking forward to seeing the final product!
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>>98274644
>since I already felt ~€150 was a hefty investment.

I wouldn't call this "hefty", since it allowed you to paint for a whole year, and probably you still have some paints left for future use.

But i agree with you that an airbrush is just not needed at the start. I have an airbrush myself (the mentioned cheap compressor with tank and some brushes from aliexpress). It works, and i primed a lot of miniatures with it over the years, but i still keep a black and white rattlecan at hand, simply because its a lot quicker to do a zenithal spray that way, then to set up the airbrush, clean it and all the technical nonsense it involves. I bought it at some point of my hobby career, so its cost over the years is not really worth to calculate, but its just not really needed.

>>98274616
> to basecoat an army in cost $30-40 each
In what world do you life where you need 4 entire cans of spray to prime an army?
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>>98271912
It's the "put a shitload of paint on the entire model in 30 seconds" tool. It's basically just the mspaint fill tool.
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>>98274618
What about the cloth at his arm? It looks like it could need a wash at least. I would also recommend you take some more basing material to surround his plastic tactical rock a bit better.

And lastly, mabye its the picture: is there no lenses or lights in his sensor thing on top of his backpack?
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>>98271025
Anything by GSI Creos aka Mr Hobby. The other guy linked the PS289, but I personally use a PS270.
They're far from bargain-bin, but they spray just as good as airbrushes 2x to 3x the price.
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>>98274644
it probably makes sense to recommend the spray can for a noob's first squad, that's true. but if they like painting that first squad i think the airbrush is something people should be pushed to early. but i'm saying that as someone that doesn't like basecoating, i enjoy picking out details and highlighting.
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>>98274671
>hefty
Yeah I recognize that this is very subjective. I maintain that it is hefty because that is about my monthly entertainment budget after investments and other living/family expenses. I would not certainly not call it a bad investment, however. I might, at €300, if I had gotten the airbrush right off the bat, and that is exactly my point. Again, I recognize that it subjective. The context of my posts was specifically >>98274133 and >>98274494
Anywho, keep painting anons, hope you all have a good weekend
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progress on my imperial fist. I'm really liking how it's turning out.
Yes I know there are some rough transitions on the cape but they're really only apparent when you look at it really close and from odd angles. I might go back and try to polish it later once the shield and head are done.

>>98274570
NTA but brush will always be superior to airbrush. The airbrush has it's uses and can do amazing stuff, but I prefer the texture and flexibility that a brush affords you
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>>98274644
I am one of the biggest airbrush shills you'll ever meet, but I wouldn't recommend any new painter to buy one.
A new painter should buy a rattlecan, a paintbrush or two, 8-12 paint pots, and THAT'S IT.
Since many new painters drop the hobby after just a short time, they shouldn't spend more than they have to.
But if you've been painting for more than a year or two, have gone through a handful of rattlecans, and aren't going to suddenly stop, then you should be buying an airbrush expeditiously.
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>>98274708
cape is nice
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What are the best chrome paints availanle?
I saw this video from GSW and they look pretty good (I intend to use an airbrush for application)
Are there any others like these or do I just get em?

https://youtu.be/sMC2JOJe228
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>>98274711
Pretty much this. A year or two, 50-100 painted miniatures in, with no signs of stopping the hobby. This should be the time to make bigger hobby investments. Be it the $150 desk lamp, the air brush or dedicated paint rack and all of those things that are nice to have, but which you are only able to appreciate after you happen to paint for a while.
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>>98274731
Results online for these seem mixed.
Use a high gloss black basecoat.
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>>98274745
Are there other options?
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>>98274759
Tbdesu, the GSW stuff will probably work fine through an airbrush if you aren't stupid with it and use a gloss black undercoat.
But I've also seen good results from people using molotow chrome, and they sell really big bottles designed for refilling pens.
>inb4 memetuber opinion
Anything else would be lacquer.
The best chrome paint ever is from Born Paint, but that is a whole pain in and of itself, so I wouldn't recommend using it unless you really really really want the best possible chrome for a big vehicle or mech or something.
>>
>>98274708
I find this very pleasing to look at
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>>98274475
No not really, it's just when you check the second hand market, there's just way too many people than what I would have liked who are selling their unpainted or half-painted collections, which may indicate that they give up before completing their project
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>>98274806
>>98274718
ty. I've always wanted to paint something along the style of pic rel. Sugden's style is really nice too. I think I might push the highlights a tiny bit further to white, just a little dot
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>>98274699
>Anywho, keep painting anons, hope you all have a good weekend
You too, anon.
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>>98274711
I don't think anyone itt claimed that you should GET AN AIRBRUSH IMMEDIATELY, but only after you are sure you will stick with the hobby.
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Still wip but I think i'm starting to find a purple armor scheme/weathering style I like for my marines.
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>>98274897
hmmm idk about the brown but the rest looks really great
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>>98274814
That makes sense
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>>98274287
Everyone is new at some point. Others don't have the same grasp of language.

>>98274284
When you see "t." in the context of speech or dialogue it stands for the Latin word "titulus," which translates to "title" or "inscription."

In its original scholarly use (especially in classical studies, theology, or critical editions of texts), it was used to label or reference a specific speech, a saying, or a section titled with a speaker's name.
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>>98274905
Ya the brown is just a basecoat for areas I'm doing in gold
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>>98274865
These two anons did, but may not have realized that the context they were replying to was "advice for absolute beginners", and not "advice for enthusiasts seeking to improve"
>>98274396
>>98274494
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>>98274912
Please forgive the off-topic post, but it amuses me that I was called out as a newfag for not knowing what something meant (outside of the apparent usage for attribution), but then people who respond to my question earnestly >>98274912 and >>98274292
disagree about the actual meaning (if not the use). Curious about which one is originally accurate, but clear that it's bastardized internet slang at this point.
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>>98274203
Just paimt
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>>98273952
Thanks. I agree about the sword. I blindly copied a wraithblade sword I saw in a tutorial even though wraithblades are a lot larger. I don’t know why I did that because only doing 3 sections would have looked better and have taken a lot less blending.
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>>98274284
t. Stands for
>To Lurk More
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>>98275016
Paimpt 4 lyfe
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Saurus entering finishing.
Still painting King lizard.
Resurrecting my 90's Saurus, with AoS bases, and a new command squad to paint.
Particularly pleased with my converted 90's Saurus banner-man.
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>>98274912
>When you see "t." in the context of speech or dialogue it stands for the Latin word "titulus," which translates to "title" or "inscription."
That's not correct. It comes from the Finnish word "terveisin", which basically means "regards,". The shorting of it to t. comes from ylilauta, and it spread to /int/ and then the rest of 4chan.
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>>98275126
Damn it, looks like the rumors are true - Finland is governing world from behind.
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>>98274943 (me)
>>98275126
Thanks anon. This corroborates the first anon's claim so I feel my original question has been answered to satisfaction
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>>98275126
>>98275140
>>98275153
> The shorting of it to t. comes from ylilauta, and it spread to /int/ and then the rest of 4chan
no it comes from kuvalauta that died 2011 and was replaced with this travesty called ylilauta, that was 15 years ago rip
t. winland
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>>98275016
>bro I think you might be allergic to shellfish
>guahh...huhhh...huhh...gno I'b gnot...huhhh...huhhh...
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>>98275153
this sounds cringe as fuck but i think finland is the #2 most influential country on the globe when it comes to "meme culture" (behind the US who grab the top spot on weight alone)
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reps kops
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>>98275198
finland used to be top dog with australia but no more
good times long gone
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>>98275198
What about Japan? Say what you will about anime, but it's been REALLY influential on internet culture. Hell, this whole website was originally created for the purpose of discussing anime.
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>>98275246
how about we stop siderailing the already off topic discussion or it will just keep escalating into into infinity and nobody will not even post infinity models
anon has been properly taught where the thing comes from at this point
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>>98275261
derailing threads is a time-honoured /tg/ tradition
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>>98275246
There was never a significant amount of japanese posters on western imageboards tho.
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>>98275339
Are we talking about individual people directly influencing culture? Or cultural influence as a whole?
Japanese culture significantly influenced western meme culture, even if there were very few Japanese people actually posting.
>>98275071
this is sick as, the touches of blue on the coils are really nice
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Why is painting space marines so satisfying? Has anyone tried to address this question scientifically? Great designs, love how bulky and rough the armour and jump packs look. I'm also pretty sure these were cheaper than the plastic assault marines in the late nineties-early 00's.
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>>98274731
it's alclad and it's not even close
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>>98275365
>Japanese culture significantly influenced western meme culture, even if there were very few Japanese people actually posting.

Sure, that happened, but you never got to interact directly with japanese, in comparison to interacting with people from finland, poland and russia on /int/, which directly changed the way people posted.
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>>98275410
I don't think they are. The designs are pretty boring, flat plate is hard to paint well, and their bulk makes them hard to pose.
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>>98275410
Easy to paint and design, easy to customise and still having enough details to make them interesting. And space knights are cool. Simple as that.



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