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File: 1711804624080783.png (3.56 MB, 2400x1694)
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Flamin' hot Edition

Previous thread: >>10927705

This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin, PE, wood, etc) models kit
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others

Always remember:
>No manufacturer is purely perfect or awful (except for Revell). ALWAYS research your kits before buying.

Some helpful guides to get started:
https://www.scalemates.com/
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/
http://www.modelersite.com/en/area/98/scale-models-techniques
http://fichtenfoo.net/blog/model-tutorials-and-in-progs
http://ipmsstockholm.org/
https://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/
http://www.primeportal.net/home.htm
https://www.flickr.com/photos/156268995@N04/albums

Plus there are tons of people on YouTube with pretty good videos on techniques etc.

Some sites to purchase models, extras, and supplies:
>ebay
https://www.dersockelshop.de/ (GER)
https://www.scalehobbyist.com/index.php (US)
https://www.alfahobby.se/ (SWE)
http://spruebrothers.com/ (US)
https://freetimehobbies.com/ (US)
http://www.hobbyeasy.com/ (HK)
http://www.luckymodel.com/ (HK)
http://www.hlj.com/ (JP)
https://www.modellbau-koenig.de/en (GER)
http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/m/ (JP)
https://www.hannants.co.uk/ (UK)
https://www.jadarhobby.pl/index.php?language=en (PL)
https://www.bnamodelworld.com/ (AUS)
http://volksusastore.com/webstores/scale/ (US) (Carry Mr. Color and GaiaNotes paint)
https://www.emodels.co.uk/ (UK)
https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/
https://www.super-hobby.com (EU/UK/RU/US/PL)
https://plastmodel.pl/ (PL/EU)
https://agtom.eu/en/(PL/EU)
https://exito.site/en_GB/index(PL/EU)
https://m-zone.pl (PL only)

Jannie feedback for really, really big retards:
https://www.4channel.org/feedback
>>
why is it purple
>>
>>10955437
because you touch yourself
>>
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just painted the very first part of my very first model.
I'm honestly surprised. I thought it would have been a lot harder to paint tiny ass details like this, especially with how clumsy I know I am.
I'm just glad I didn't get filtered by this hobby so far and hope I can finish this model sooner rather than later
>>
>>10955561
what is it
>>
>>10955565
Stick for a 1/72 plane
>>
>>10955567
looks tidy enough. even if you fuck up though, it's hard to see those internal parts once it's complete
>>
>>10955141
is it worth visiting the shop irl
>>
Why is it so hard to find polishing wheels that don't eat up model kit paint? Tried ordering a load from aliexpress now to try but everywhere here has those rock hard felt wheels, not the fluffy cotton wheels

>>10955360
Based
>>
>>10955360
I can hear the intro
>>
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new 'toss just dropped on zvezdas vk page
>>
>>10956339
>best REDFOR model builder
>>
>>10955141
Brexit probably.
>>
>tfw building the variant you want requires a $50 kitbash
I hate this. Still cheaper than paying the AM jew but I'd be left with half a kit when done. I should start wargaming to make use of any salvageable scrap.
>>
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>>10956339
nice fictional dio
like a panzer ยด46 scenery
>>
>>10956339
>not enough anti-drone gizmos on the T-90
eh, 3 out of 10
>>
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Which one is your favourite tank?
I'm planning to build T14/T90/Type 10 at next.
>>
>>10956973
>tanks
you mean targets, right? imma say the merkava
>>
>>10956977
Sorry for my bad English, just wanna know about Leo2/M1/Merkava which one is the most popular at here.

I just finished Merkava so yeah, that one is my favourite so far haha.
The UFO shape turret of Merkava Mk4 is too boring to me, I'm more prefer to the asymmetrical design of the old model.
>>
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>>10956973
leo2 has the most soul
merkava has bonus points for crushing muslims, as well as the abrams, but both lack the 80s vibes the leo2 brings, esp. the a4
>>
>>10957023
ps: thats a Tamiya 1/16 PzIV full option
with atak zimmerit, which is really nice
>>
>>10957023
I can see you're WW2 fans, and your PzIV is beautiful~ good job anon
>>
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Are metallic paints meant to be used with airbrushes only?
I've never used them before and trying them no, they look like absolute shit (it looks even worse in person than on the picture, especially if the light isn't hitting it. Do I need a basecoat or something below them?
I tried thinning them to different amounts, but it all gave me the same results of it just clumping together like this.
>>
>>10957094
>Are metallic paints meant to be used with airbrushes only?

Pretty much yes, you want them to go on with thin layers and dry quick so the metallic particles don't have time to sink into the layer.
You should have some success with water based metallics mostly made for wargaming mins though
>>
>>10957094
everyone seems to recommend gloss black underneath. I haven't had a problem brush painting them on tiny parts
>>
If I take a vacuum formed plastic shell and spray a silver metallic followed by a solid black behind it will it convincingly look like sheet metal?
Or will it just look like silver colored plastic from a cheap toy?
>>
>>10957323
You mean on the inside of a clear plastic shell like an rc car? It will look like silver paint.
>>
I bought myself 1/72 tqmiya focke wulf as my first airplane kit and i'm too nervoua to start it, any advice? At least painting armored vehicles and tanks is easy as fuck i don't know if i can do any camouflage on it
>>
>>10957637
start it
>>
>>10957637
I've been kicking my first model ever down the road for a couple of months.
Just start, who cares if it turns out bad? You can always build it again once you've gotten better
>>
>>10957637
Do a simple silver coat if you don't want to do a camouflage job first time round
>>
>>10957637
If you've painted tanks before then you'll be fine. If you're not confident about the camo then just freehand it.
>>
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You absolutely can polish Vallejo Mecha clearcoats if you let them cure at least two days. Not quite 2K auto paint tier results but this is WAY better than it was before
>>
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tamiyas leo 1 "summer of '69" oldschooler
not sure yet if its gonna be a german or a noregian... but with winter camo, tgats for sure
>>
>>10958125
"norwegian"
le ebin phoneposter
>>
>>10958125
nice tablecloth, I miss my old, thick vinyl flower pattern tablecloth
>>
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>>10958146
thats cotton, from my grandmum as the design might indicate.

the me163 slooooowly comes together. on the shelf of shame since fall '21
>>
>>10958128
huh? Wouldn't a phone poster have autocorrect?
>>
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>no cockpit details again
man i do really have to wait for eduard to make a PE set for this before i can start working on it.
>>
>>10958335
What is this?
>>
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Time for more color corrections and to apply the yellow paint on the skirts
>>
>>10958336
zvezda 1/48 ka-52
>>
>>10958192
ingles no mother tounge
>>
>>10958335
Give them another 10 years to figure out how to mold details on the dashboard, just like they did with the rivets. Decals only at 1/48 in this day and age is fucking shameful.
>>
>>10956339
Why are zigger dioramas always so soulless?
>>
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Main paintwork and polish and all that jazz done. Just a couple of tiny touchups and decals to go
>>
how do I into cars
>>
>>10958443
Don't start with AMT. I know hobby lobby is full of them but the
>>
>>10958443
Get a decent Tamiya kit of the cheap ones. Paint it with a suitable Tamiya spray can, not airbrush or brush. All the other bits are piss easy, only the bodywork is a different skillset to planes and tanks at least if it has to look "correct".
>>
>>10958473
>>10958487
do I need 6 million grades of wet sanding and polishing or whatever
>>
>>10958525
You don't "need" anything in scale models you need the equipment for whatever level you'll accept. If you want the full rundown on >>10958417 I've sanded the whole body before painting with 240/400/800/1200 to get rid of nasty 1980s mold lines and to smoothen it out a bit. Used sponge sandpaper not ordinary sandpaper apart from the 1200 grain wet sand. Painted, then clearcoated 4-5 times with Vallejo mecha gloss. Let dry for 48 hours. Polished with Tamiya Coarse polishing compound, then polished with Tamiya Finish. Not perfect result still for all that effort but it's good enough.

If you wanna go full autism mode you need to get automotive grade paint and post processing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EsT2_o5An5g

If you wanna just make some cars and not worry too much about the glossiness just do that it really doesn't matter. You can always weather the tits off them and build rally cars
>>
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>>10958543
>>10958525
Or paint them matte without clearcoat cartoon style these always look cool as fuck
>>
>>10958525
Coarse
Medium
Fine
Ultra fine

That should be all you need assuming you're using sticks instead of paper
>>
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>>10958543
you used acyclic gloss as your clearcoat? lmao, i can see the orange peel in your earlier images after you buffed it
>>
>>10958580
I don't want to work with anything else. I mean I used to, but It's a pain to clean compared to acrylic and the skin of my hands is too sensitive to it, I can barely work with Tamiya panel liners without my skin cracking. It's good enough for what it is.
>>
>>10958591
anon.... you arent supposed to finger paint with it
>>
>>10958594
You know what I mean, airborne particles will be there despite having a proper ventilation setup and it attacks my skin like no tomorrow. Shocking but the quality of my occasional car model is less important than my health
>>
>>10958543
sounds really autistic desu, and I don't much care for tamiya's selection
>>
>>10958638
Sounds like your problem then not the threads
>>
>how to achieve mirror finish
>mfw the before and after look basically the same
>>
>>10958575
What's the purpose of this post?
>>
>>10958638
Then enjoy your AMT and revell trash
>>
>>10958638
Tamiya is usually the first go-to when you're looking for quality. you choose other brands if you're looking for a model that Tamiya doesn't have, though some new models coming out lately are really good, especially the ones Meng is shitting out recently!
>>
>>10959289
meng is a small company, meng kits are like 1.5x the price of tamiya kits its ridiculous
>>
>>10959290
>meng
>small company
Last time I cared about what they were doing, they were trying to be the chinese tamiya. I guess that plan didn't work out?
>>
>tfw one of the paints on the chart that you might need was discontinued 20 years ago
>>
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>>10959093
Man who comes to website founded on weebs and anime addiction shocked to find even peripheral references to cartoons

>>10959289
I got a NuNu in stock I gotta find out what's like. Fujimi and Aoshima have been pretty decent too but I've tried exactly one of each so that's not a big base to make that opinion on
>>
>>10959433
Aoshima makes the best Lambo and Pagani kits, but unfortunately for everything else, they keep using the same molds from decades ago. despite the inaccuracy of the underside, i prefer Aoshima's R32 than Tamiya's for having a more complete interior. the recently-released Hasegawa R32 looks good too since it's a new mold.
As for Fujimi, not sure about their recent releases, but i never liked their car models especially their pre mid-2010's because they're hilariously off-proportion, especially the wheel sizes which makes them look more like a toy than a proper model.
>>
>>10959435
Lmao rally raid Mclaren F1. The only Fujimi I've built (don't have it to share a pic) was a Toyota GT86 and it looked pretty fine. Not that sort of off look like the Mclaren
>>
>>10959412
>buy 2 paints of the same color
>one paint has different hue because it was from a different batch
>tfw no face
>>
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>>10955360
Been working to make a diorama for this model I built 30 yrs ago. It's been broken multiple times and put back together. Hope this is the last time.
>>
>>10959435
Tamiya's R32 is ancient, that's why
>>
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Just waiting for the decal softener to do its job now, then I can put the side mirrors on and it's all done
>>
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>place decal on surface
>align decal
>apply decal glue
>decal gets misaligned
>align decal
>press with cotton swab
>decal gets misaligned
>apply decal glue
>align decal
>roll cotton swab over decal
>decal gets misaligned
>apply decal glue
>align decal
>press with paper towel
>decal gets misaligned
>cycle repeats
god fucking damn it
>>
>>10959559
you ruined it with the sticker application
>>
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>>10959563
>you ruined it by making it the way it was always supposed to be
go build your own sticker less race car retard
>>
>>10959566
Based
>>
>>10958125
Gun barrel is the wrong way round, son.
>>
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>>10959559
Done and very happy with this result
>>
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>>10959730
Once again thanks to the anon who told me my photos were shit a few months ago so I finally bought a tiny foldable photo studio, pics look so much better it's not even funny
>>
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>>10955360
>I have seen things you people wouldn't believe
>scale model ships made in the eras long gone
>paper dioramas with faux perspectives showing colonial properties
>longitudinal cross section of a ship-of-the-line with holographic, animated deckhands
>>
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>>10959743
Apparently none of these are modern, each was made to show what the commissioned end product would look like
>>
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>>10959751
>unga bungas as seen in the 17th century
and it's almost all paper, while nowadays we shit ourselves unless we get a 3D printer to make every extra part
>>
>>10959290
And those kits are usually 1.5 times better? Although this usually only really applies to cars. Mengs 1/35 toolings are usually priced the same or sometimes less than their modern tamiya counterparts (if you know where to look). 1/48 aircraft its the same story.
>>10959387
Their tools+supplies division/dspiae seems to be doing pretty well last i checked
>>
>>10959753
>>10959751
>>10959743
These are fantastic, what museum is this?
>>
>>10959095
I haven't seen amt here in the uk. are they bad?
>>10959289
I was looking at the icm old timey cars. tamiya are a fine brand, but the car kits they sell do not appeal at all
>>
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I only looked at the top of the Mr. Hobby bottle and almost started touching up the details on an Afrika Korps panzer with zinc-chromate.
>>
>>10959806
AMT much like other american companies like to rebox ancient kits (from the 60s-80s) and slap new on the box. And lets just say those kits are pieces of shit since they don't bother to maintain their molds properly.
>>
Has anyone tried doing filters with oil paints instead of enamels? I don't mean oil-dots, I mean the thin uniform film kind.
>>
>>10960049
It works fine.
>>
>>10959562
>Decal is 1mm out according to your eagle eye
>Spend the afternoon painstakingly nudging it forward and backward until it is absolutely 100% perfect
Such is life for decal autists such as us
>>
>>10959766
Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam
>>
>>10959751
Builders models are an old, old thing anon, that's where the modern tradition comes from. There's actually a lot of models of Napoleonic era ships still around even though all the ships themselves rotted away or sunk a century ago.
>>
>>10958342
zvezda or trumpeter?
>>
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>>10960453
Zvezda, it's better than the trumpeter one
It got crushed in transport and the sprues were warped hence the weird panel gaps
>>
>>10960203
When you place numbers next to each other, your brain will notice even the smallest misalignment
>>
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>another fucking 1/350 yamato kit
refit 1/350 iowa class when
>>
>>10955360
anyone knows where can i download free and quality-tier 3d models for 3d printing?
>>
Should I get a CMR 1/72 Short Empire? I need to finish a few kits first, but what do you guys think?

If I do buy it, I will get a Short Cockle, Supermarine Sea Lions II and III, a Robinson R-44 and a K-Type Blimp.
>>
>>10960531
>battleships
no thanks. cruisers when
>>
>>10959562
you'd wanna put the swab next to the water drop first so it absorbs the water, then you can move the decal more freely with a toothpick. also, roll the swab over when moving it so the decal won't drag along and misalign itself.
>>
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>>10959540
Tamiya's Skyline R32 still holds up to this day as the most accurate scale model of that car and is the only R32 kit so far to have the most complete engine detail. it's only con for me are the lack of window masks and the tub interior that misses out most of the interior details. you'd probably wanna kitbash the Aoshima interior with it to fix it.
>>
>>10960476
>crushed in transport
Does it even matter? My Zvezda kits were never crushed but their parts still came in as if they were.
>>
What's the best F1 kit right now
>>
>>10960476
thats weird all zvezda kits I have came with a very sturdy box
>>
>>10960853
The Hasegawa one (2020 tooling) has way better interior and undercarriage details but sadly lacks an engine bay
>>
>>10960832
That same company has a 1/350 Des Moines class and Portland class cruisers
>>
I'm painting my first model with acrylics and brushes, nothing fancy. How long does it take a coat of acrylic paint to dry properly?
Also is there any fun weathering/shading I can do with what I have? All the stuff I've seen people do requires different types of paints or an airbrush. I do also have some varnish, if that helps.
>>
>>10961651
You can do a lot with only acrylics. For example:
https://youtube.com/watch?v=0ZfognJ7JZs
That guy does do hairspray chipping but you can achieve a similar effect with a brush and patience.
>>
>>10961651
>How long does it take a coat of acrylic paint to dry properly?
There's two states:
>Touch dry
You can go ahead of put on another layer of paint.
>Fully cured
Maximum toughness. Manufacturer should state this somewhere, usually 24h.

If you are an absolute beginner go and paint up some plastic spoons, unsued parts, sprues until you know how to stir properly, how to dilute properly, how to paint properly, how to take care of your brushes etc.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHYokCW2U0o

You can buy cheap oil paints and art store odorless mineral spirits to make a wash. A simple dark brown wash will make your model pop.
>>
>>10961666
You can usually tell if a paint is touch dry with a little experience and if you're impatient use a hair dryer.
You'll want to wait for the acrylic paint to be fully cured if you plan on using masking tape.
>>
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just bought another kit I know I won't build for months/years
>>
>>10961659
Damn that looks good, I gotta give that a proper watch later and maybe take some notes.
I'm mostly treating this first model as a learning experience. Just want to get my toes wet and don't really care if the final result looks like a toy.
Then I can start introducing new techniques and stuff I want to learn one by one into future models.
>>10961666
>If you are an absolute beginner go and paint up some plastic spoons, unsued parts, sprues until you know how to stir properly, how to dilute properly, how to paint properly, how to take care of your brushes etc.
I've already started painting and got through some of the rookie mistakes on some parts that will barely be visible once the model is complete.
I'm treating this model as a learning experience anyways, as long as I'm having fun and I can identify something that I want to focus on for my next model, I think I'm happy.
>>10961669
>You'll want to wait for the acrylic paint to be fully cured if you plan on using masking tape
Uh, that's very good to know, I probably would have totally fucked that up
>>
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>>10961678
i have an entire wallboard full of unbuild kits
many in such handy scales as pic related
and i keep buying
how retarded am I?
>>
Aftermarket resin looks worse than the kit parts in 9 out of 10 cases.
>>
>>10961866
poorfag cope
>>
>>10961678
Good job m8, kit prices are only going to inflate over the year.

Better buy now what you'll build years from now.
>>
Didn't get to build the entire weekend.

Sucks, mang.
>>
>>10961666
>You can buy cheap oil paints and art store odorless mineral spirits to make a wash. A simple dark brown wash will make your model pop.
Oh, by the way, I was wondering. Why do I need oil paints to make a wash? Can't I just use heavily diluted acrylic paint for that, or are there some downsides?
>>
people here get autistic about washing with acrylics, they are committed to using enamel or oil for it
>>
>>10962337
Post your model painted with acrylic wash
>>
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>objectively the best F22 kit ever put out on the market
>completely non existant inside or outside of japan
>hasn't been reissued in years in favour of more recolours of fucking insects and yamato slop
i hate fujimi
>>
>>10962349
What's wrong with Academy?
>>
>>10962349
Fujimi made a bit of a comeback in the latter 2010's thanks to the kancolle but now all they do is insects with anime decals that they're passing off as anime merch.
>>
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Many moons ago I was interested in the greenstuff world mini-sandbags, and I just remembered they exist so I was wondering, does anyone have experience with them? Are they any good?
>>
>>10962631
I'll give you some used snus pouches for half the price
>>
>>10962349
>>10962582
You're telling me you don't want a lobster in Eva 01 colours?
>>
>>10962327
It is much easier to remove enamel/oil paint.
>>
>order batch of paints and some extra doohickeys
>shop couldn't ship for exactly two weeks now since they can't get Gunze H303
Is everyone else having trouble with this paint? It seems out of stock everywhere. My guess is because it's the go-to green in a lot of Trumpeter/Hobby Boss armor kits, like pretty much all their slavshit kit will tell you to paint it in H303.
>>
>>10963016
Super-hobby has full stock of it
>>
>>10962899
Not op, but ironically if there is one thing I can't buy at a sensible price is the Meng Eva 01.
>>
How does 3d printing models tend to go? There's a couple vehicles I'm interested in that are pretty obscure, as in there was a single entry on scalemates with barely any info, but I did manage to find an STL for it. So if I ever get me resin printer up and running I think that may be what I'll have to do.
>>
>>10963627
if it's a good model with a logical part breakdown it's fine. Just like a resin kit, except you make it yourself.

what's the subject?
>>
>>10963652
This one
>>
>>10962899
>lobster
They're crawdads, completely different creatures.
>>
>>10962631
I guess they work if you need to set up fortifications for wargaming but they look terrible as modelling accessories.
>>
>>10963986
well hes got completed build pics, so it looks like it'll print fine. Odd scale and kinda pricey though. If you were planning on upscaling it to 1/35 I wouldn't bother, just makes the details chunkier. Otherwise, I don't think you'll get screwed over
>>
>>10964073
What about Crawmoms?

>Carlos.avif
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>>10964073
So you want a Lobster? I'll notify Fujimi-san
>>
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>>10960531
yeah, bout time they offered it in 1/72, the official /smg/ scale
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>>10964330
looks like shit desu, check the Yamato museum example for an actually good large scale model of the class
>>
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Anyone here have experience with forced perspective?
I have a 1:144 scale stuka here, but online I can find exactly 2 divebombing/plane forced perspective dioramas, and they look kinda shit.
>>
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>>10964545
>>10964545
Quick mock up done in blender.
Plane wingspan 15m IRL, reduced to 10cm here. Typical bomb release height IRL 400ish m (I took a rather liberal 300m) reduced here to 20cm (at the scale of the plane, 1:144, it would be around 2m). Train wagons IRL 9m a piece, first reduced to 6cm for the 1:144 scale, then used some basic trigonometry to determine new length to keep angular diameter the same from the POV of the plane at the reduced height, resulting in train wagons of around 6mm.

I figured I'd box the thing to force the forced perspective. Considering pouring it in resin to allow for cloud effects and an easier time distorting the luminesence of the train.
>>
>>10958548
I like everything about these, other than the lack of steering on yellow.
>>
>>10957023
>feldgrau uniform
>panzercommandant
>>
>>10964571
>he doesn't zero-countersteer drift
NGMI
>>
>>10956339
Zvezda has give me nothing but headaches.
>>
>>10956093
Anon, they're simply called cotton buffing wheels, amazon has a ton of different ones in their listings, including for a dremel (i e. suited for minis)
>>
>>10960476
They were warped because Zvezda uses a very soft plastic and sometimes they don't let them cool off enough before taking out of the molds. Hence the warped pieces. Saw that several times. Annoying actually since the fit itself is pretty good.
>>
>>10964624
Due to this I have not had a single kit of theirs fit. I always need to break out the hairdryer and bend things to fit. Also some of their models are just plain garbage. The IR lights on some of their BTRs for instance are to be glued on via two tiny strands if plastic, if you don't go with PE or paperclip replacements on those brackets you can forget it. I wouldn't even mind if thet were cheap, but they are charging near tamiya&co prices. If it weren't for the fact that they have models which are hard to get in other brands, I wouldn't go near them.
>>
>>10961205
>>10961499
>>10964624
I'm pretty sure a washing machine was the culprit, but it was kinda my fault since I figured the kit might be useful as filler between the c piller of my car and my new washing machine
The box wasn't box shaped after going home
>>
>>10964549
My brother in christ, if that wingspan is 10cm then your box is what? 20x20x20? It woukd have to be at least that in the way depicted. That is 8L of resin. Your diorama will weigh well over 10kg. If you planned the base to be made of styrofoam of any type, it will be crushed. Also, a stuka at 1/144 sets yoi back a whopping 15-25 yurodollars depending on brand. A train at thatbscale doesn't exist retail afaik, so that's a scratchbuild, ritherway that translates to dirtcheap. Clouds will be something like microwaved soap or so I imagine. Long story short, it is a cheap build ... untill your epoxy resin enters the stage with a whopping 8 required liters. Which is going to cost more than 100 euros. Also at that thickness you'd likely need a vaccuumpump. Heatgun deletion of bubbles is nice when it is surface level stuff jn a 1cm deep resin layer meant to emulate water, but you want 20cm of absolutely crystal clear resin with embedded objects. That's a challenge my man.
>>
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>>10964688
Ye, I realized this myself, just don't know a way around it. There is no 1:288 scale stuka I know of (else I could do it in 10x10x10, i.e. 1L of resin). The alternative is to not use resin but suspend the plane, either via wire (eh, meh), or via a cleverly camouflaged stick ("wow, why is that cloud connected to the plane I wonder?").

The only realistic alternative I can think of is to tie a fishing line from the bottom of the box to the nose of the plane, then installing a magnet in the tail of the plane. Instead of an open top, a solid cover with peephole will be used. On the inside of this cover the peeophole has a washer glued around it. The plane is then placed in such a way that it can not reach the magnet and is suspended with the plane itself obscuring (from the peephole pov) the fishing line going down. This however sounds extremely finicky to line up right (can't have the plane bang in the middle if the peephole, or you won't see shit) and it also would obviously no longer work as a true diorama (though conceptually it sounds cool imo). The biggest benefit is that a mockup could me made in a day with a washer, magnet, cardboard placeholder models and an old (shoe)box, whereas resin would require, well, resin. Spicy pic to illustrate.
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>>10964723
Don't use a washer aroind the hole, offset it to the side, otherwise your plane will always have its tail towards the hole and its nise away from it, so you'd always be looking straight at the back of the plane rather than the plane being at the edge of vision. I also wouldn't do a nose-tail alignment, because that way your string wil always be along that same axis, and if you want to see part of the canopy of the plane you will always see the string.

Equally spicy pics to show what I mean. 1/3 your proposed method, nose to tail centered on viewing hole.
>>
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>>10964821
2/3 showing problem with nose to tail string alwas being visible if plane is to be in-frame
>>
>>10964647
Those BTRs are old so they can understandably suffer from crappy engineering, the newer releases should have been better but they're still let down this time by abysmal QC.
>>
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>>10964827
3/3
Imo better method not using nose to tail anchorage allowing string to be obscured while plane is offset so canopy is visible. In purple the magnet2metal connection.
>>
>>10964830
I suppose, btw, you could use your method and have the plane dead center going straight down at a 90 degree angle with the train offset so it is visible. But I am not convinced that would show off the stuka.

Gotta say though. I think it is a fantastic idea well worth making at least a mock up of.
>>
>>10964830
Oh man, that's an excellent point. My next problem will be to see "how much magnet" I will need to keep the plane suspended. I don't into magbets, so I have no idea if I put the magnet in the plane and the metal on the cover or vice versa, or how much of either is needed, or what distance between the two is achievable, it isn't like I am going to be generating superconductor style 7+ tesla. My guess is to have a magnet in the plane rather and reversed polarity stacks of magnets in the cover (and foregoing metal altogether with the attraction being weaker that way)
>>
>>10964855
Two N52 magnets of d 10mm h 10mm with poles aligned properly will exert a force of approximately 0.5 newton @ 2cm seperation (so it could hold just about 50 grams at that seperation). If you went mad and made the height 3cm withdiameter of 2cm you could hold about 150grams at 5cm seperation.

This is an approximation, magnetic calculations are 2much4me for a basket weaving forum, things like the dimensions of the magnet play a massive role, and when magnets mismatch (i.e. using a massive magnet on o e side and a small magnet on the other) the acurate calculations become more complicated.

Also magnets are unintuitive as fuck, you just have to know the theory and plug in numbers, you can't really have a "feeling" for if one of your calculations is right or wrong unless you work with magnets a ton, and very few people do.
>>
>>10964330
I won't gainsay the effort put in, but where the fuck are the railings and rigging? Why would you make something that large and then just not add the most important bits?
>>
>>10962349
i will always see Fujimi as the Revell of Japan >>10959435
>>
>>10965094
Likely because it is some weird custom model that didn't come with rigging, instead it only came with EPIC SCALE.
I am not aware of any commercial Yamato in the depicted scale. There is one (1) 1/10 scale I know of (which is obviously larger than that and a museum piece). So I am curious to know where that Yamato came from
>>
>>10965213
But... Rigging is literally just string - twine, probably, at this diametre - stuck on the extant poles. And, not to imply there's a lack of effort again, but adding metal rods and gluing your wire of choice to it isn't exactly a deal breaker after you've spent however many years filling and sanding that thing.
>>
>most important part of a warship
>railings and rigging
>>
>>10955360
Man, I can hear 'Like a Sea Gull' and 'Head First' like I'm a wee teen again. Sky Target was also banging.
>>
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>>10962530
Academy kit is okay besides the fact that fujimi would be about the same price (assuming competent distribution channels) if it was still in print today.
The fujimi kit blasts the academy kit out of the water in regards to surface detail. Academy kit is missing alot of rivets and panel lines.
Its the only F-22 kit on the market that gets the RAM surface mostly correct. Ilovekit+Hasegawa 1/48 kits overexaggerates the RAM surface while fujimi is much more flat.
Plus you can the engine out of display.
>>
>>10965323
I agree, but then I never like these, imo, OTT scales. The whole point is that it is scaled down. I honestly unironically think a 1:1200 diorama showcasing the yamato leaving port on its maiden voyage would look better than these mega scales. I find the only exceptions to this are museum pieces, but then they have entire teams working on those as their job, and the models often include cutaways and crossections.
>>
>>10959730
Daaamn son, did you align the sticker with a hypodermic needle?
>>
Haven't built shit in over a week.
I just get home from work, crash out, sleep like four hours, wake up, play an hour of Helldivers 2, doomscroll another then battle insomnia till 4AM, then start again.
>>
>>10966222
You're not missing much to be honest.
>>
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>>10966222
haven't built shit in over 4 months.
i just get home from work, take care of the kids, do some house chores, then after they're asleep i can't find the energy to build. i usually fall asleep in front of the screen and, on the good nights, get 5 or 6 hours of sleep. Chronic sleep deprivation has given me the 'skill' to fall asleep in under 60 seconds at any time of the day..

thanks for reading my blog post.

you don't know the worth of the time you have for yourself until you lose it, anon.
>>
>>10966222
gutted my kitchen and bathroom. Was overly optimistic on how fast I'd get things done. My life until the end of fall will likely be, work, work on the house, fast food, alcohol and 6hrs of sleep. Considering going semi NEET mode once all that expensive shit is out of the way so I can focus on model tanks and model tank accessories. There's a light at the end of the tunnel
>>
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>>10966222
you sound depressed, unironically touch grass, pick up a physical activity and do some face to face social interaction

did that myself and it saved me from sudoku, now my second kid is on the way (not recommended for scale modeling, I couldn't do any for over a year now)
>>
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Finally finished this nice little Hasegawa kit, been sitting on my shelf for ages now with only a few steps left to go.

>As you may know, the Luftwaffe, fed up with the aging F-104 and its poor safety record, finally decided to retire it.

>Its replacement, starting from 1987, was the relatively unconventional F-29, newly developed by Grummann as a technology demonstrator, but readily adopted by West Germany, perhaps with the help of a few properly greased palms.

>In service, the F-29 proved a reliable and agile infighter, marred by its lack of an onboard cannon (solved in 1993 with the F-29c iteration) and by its lack of an onboard radar.
>>
progress pic
>>
>>10966978
I was about to ask why does it have chinamen letters on the air intake, but then I took a closer look
>>
>>10966978
Based build

>>10965625
Yes.
>>
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Jap dude goes to airshow and brings paint samples to check if they're accurate or not, pretty cool
>>
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>>10967663
>>
>>10967663
>>10967664
Typical viewing distance of a model is 3ft or so, so this guy needs to be standing 100ft (for 1/35 scale) away for this comparison to make sense. Luminesence doesn't appreciably diminish over 3ft, it does however over 100ft (which is the distance you are actually emulating).
I know, autism, but then so is going to airshows with colourswabs.
>>
>>10967696
>>10967696
no fuck you this is how i view my models
>>
>>10960531
>recently picked up Tamiya's 1/350 battleship Missouri kit
>luck out and get the apparently rarer WW2 version
>try to get a wooden deck for it
>all decks are for the 1991 refit version
:(
>>
>been using crappy cheapo no name airbrush from amazon for a while
>came with an equally crappy compressor
>buy an $80 paasche airbrush for some better quality
>paint wont come out of nozzle no matter what, even if air does
>make sure every part is fitting correctly
>clean out the nozzle, replace nozzle, clean inside repeatedly
>use same paint + thinner with same ratio on the crappy no name airbrush and everything works fine
am i an actual retard? is the crappy cheapo compressor not putting out enough pressure for the better airbrush? thats all i can think of at this point.
>>
>>10967540
Which kit? What price?
>>
What do you do with your models when they keep piling up?
>>
>>10967706
Throw old ones in the trash
>>
>>10967706
I have the ones I'm happiest with in two glass cabinets, the rest are in a closet piled on each other. I throw them out from time to time if they aren't nice enough to sell or give away
>>
>>10967707
>>10967708
>throwing out your hard work and hard earned money
Bruh what the fuck
>>
>>10967712
This post made by someone that has built 10 models in total. I have 100+ and I assure you they're not all worth keeping because they were used as technique experiments or you just were completely fucking phoning it in when you made them. The results simply aren't equal.
>>
>>10967712
I buy kits with my neetbux and put very little effort into making them
>>
>>10967706
Left a decade of models at my parent's house when I moved out, it's their problem now.
>>
>>10967732
They'll treasure them after you die of a heroin overdose
>>
>>10967696
-t. gaianotes shill
>>
>>10967701
can it do water
>>
>>10967706
gave up on modelling recently so not really a problem anymore
everything is too expensive these days
>>
>>10967701
>he doesn't know
>>
>>10967783
literal proof that you only need paper and willpower to build awesome shit.

there must be other reasons ...
>>10959753
>>
>>10959753
Mediocre
>>
>>10967803
do better, you triple nigger.
>>
>>10967783
>everything is too expensive
I am currently making a diorama from 1:35 dragon sturmpioneers, XPS foam and household objects. I think the materials specific for this diorama amounted to 15 euros. I already have the paints, but honestly the vallejo German set would be more than sufficient, so add 20 euros for paints.
>>
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Don't forget the overpriced airfix watch for all the boomers https://avi-8.com/pages/airfix-taser
>>
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Breaking news:
Local armor modeller tries his hand at planes, the result is catastrophic
>>
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>>10968060
>>
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For a wheatfield I was using sisal rope that I am planning to dip in pva+sawdust. Then while oit I saw some reed and thought "that eould probably lool more convincing. So now I am torn between the two.
>>
>>10968101
wouldn't look in scale, and wouldn't look like wheat
>>
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>>10967540
nice
>>
>>10968065
>>10968060
>non-easily aligned biplane
you picked hard mode to start with man
>>
>>10967700
time to actually do some scale modeling yourself, anon

also consider that none will be the wiser to your inaccurate model, save for like a dozen other autists worldwide
>>
>>10968060
what plane
>>
>>10968129
Filename retard
>>
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>>10967707
Almost as bad as abandoning your dog, kys
>>
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>>10968129
>phonefag
>>
>>10968060
>>10968065
next time paint the cockpit before assembling the fuselage
>>
I wonder what my pharmacist thinks of me getting 5 urine sample bottles per month and will it be more or less embarrassing if I tell him that I use them to mix paints
>>
>>10968136
just get a bunch of small steel pots, wtf
>>
>>10968104
I mean, nothing is going to look like actual wheat, there is ni way ti scale it down. As for scale, the single reed seed heads will look more like wheat tops than any sawdust+glue would. My main gripe with it is the time it would cost to prep.
>>
>>10967704
amussing hobies T90A 1/35
100 usd aprox
>>
>>10968130
fuck you nigger. and where's the rigging
>>
>>10968101
I think the reed seeds will read as reed seeds, whereas your sisal method wil read as "something" that looks like wheat.
>>
>>10967706
They go in a big box. I keep out the last one I made (that I liked anyway) out on the windowsill, there is a "Spifire on a stick" on the mantlepiece and thats about it. I like making models as a therapeutic thing (it really works for me much a reader of my comments here would think its nothing but suffering), but I don't have much use for them.
>>
>>10968060
I'm currently building an AFV Club SdKfz 251. The chassis is completely twisted, nothing fits despite my best efforts and its 50% putty by weight.

Getting an odd masochistic thrill out of finishing it anyway. Maybe you aren't as kinky as me.
>>
>>10967706
On display throughout the house
>what if they're ugly?
Then it isn't done yet, models are WiP until they are display worthy or until I have ruined them beyond repair somehow, which has only happened twice so far, one was a glue disaster that mangled the plastic, the other a zvezda kit that fit so badly it snapped in my (frustrated) attempts to force the issue.
I don't buy kits uless I am invested in it and have a diorama plan.
>>
>>10967701
It's a tube youncan blow air through with a needle down the middle and a damned of reservoir you can open.
I will never understand people gettting overpriced rebranded chinesium instead of the unbranded chinesium. And you don't need the tolerances of the upper echelon non-chinesium brushes. You are section spraying plastic, not precision spraying art on a drugdealer's car.
>>
>>10966802
>>10966222
Work 4 days
Do things for self 3 days
Pay my way and have enough left over to do the things I enjoy
Do not enjoy company so odds of getting married or having kids is essentially 0
>>
>>10968673
I am precision spraying artistic freehand camouflage thougheverbeit
>>
>>10968060
>ICM
>Beginner
You could not have chose a worse company anon (except for maybe Starfix). Expensive, fiddly, often poorly engineered (in the case of their kits prior to maybe five years ago).

Next aircraft kit should be an Airfix or Revell, not the best, but cheap and simple for a lot of their catalogue.
>>
>>10968697
nta, I would add that for me Tamiya seemed ok as the first plane kit (in /48)
I then moved to Eduard and /72 and dread any other plane manufacturer, with exception of Meng and Hasegawa
>>
>buying an airbrush
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ni4o_o5582Y
>>
>>10967748
I'll have to check, but what should I look for if it can or can't? I'm entirely sure this is user error since I heard good things about this airbrush from everyone in the shop I bought it from.
>>10967784
I know I am a retard, if that helps.
>>
>>10968983
That's a lot of effort instead of just buying the $25 chink airbrush
>>
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>>10967701
>80 dollar airbrush
>better quality
>>
>>10965094
>>10965213
It's unfinished and scratchbuilt
>>10965323
The railings would be etched brass stanchions threaded with brass wire... do you know how long that job takes?
>>
>>10969037
>do you know how long that job takes?
A few hours?
>>
>>10969037
Like I said, I'm not saying it's not impressive. I just suppose the idea of displaying an unfinished model publicly is grotesque to me, even if I do understand the dude making it probably has less years left than it'll take to complete the job.
>>
>>10967733
>"Our Ralfie used to build those before he became addicted to this devilish stuff. I cry every time I look at them. Can't throw those away."
>>
Does PVA glue work to attach photo etched parts?
It's my first time working with PE and and PVA is all I have on hand
>>
>>10970455
>using pva glue
lolmao
how turbo pagpag tier poorfag do you have to be to not have super glue lying around?
>>
>>10970455
PVA absolutely will not hold PE, get the thick, slow drying CA (brands usually called super, gorilla, joker or UHU)
>>
>>10970618
NTA, but just buy the entire ZAP or Bob Smith glue range.
>>
FUCK these eduard transfer film decals
>>
>>10970618
>>10970655
Aye, thanks
>>10970553
I just never needed it ever since moving out of my parent's place
>>
>>10970806
Skill issue
>>
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>shaking bottle of metal color silver
>didn't close the lid properly
>paint went flying straight into the model on my bench
>didn't notice until i finished up adding the silver details to the landing gear and flipped the model back up
>can't scrub it off
i want to rope my self
>>
>>10969003
>>10967748
Update: the airbrush can run water through but much like the thinner and the cleaner, it comes out slowly even on full blast, but unlike those the water seemed to splatter a lot.

Again, zero issues with the same stuff on the cheapo think brush. I'm almost certain it's the compressor.
>>
>>10970943
*chink brush
>>
I was losing my shit looking at this for 20 seconds until i reverse image searched it and found out this was a real photo and in fact not a model car
>>
>>10970455
PVA works on (pliable) porous shit or shit in suspension; paper, wood, sand and similar terrain material, cork, XPS, cardboard, TP, multiplex etc.
PVA will just sit "on" the PE part and do nothing.
Get superglue to bind at microscopic level or cement to melt the part into the plastic (really depends on the configuration what will be the best option, but generally you cant go wrong with UHU)
>>
>>10970943
If it works on your chinesium brush it clearly ISN'T the compressor. Like holy fuck how do you draw that conclusion? The one thing you DIDN'T change between set ups and is not inherently affected by the other variables is the cause of the change in outcomes? Not the variable you DID change, i.e. the airbrush?

God damn, open a window you fucking glue sniffing doodler. The internals of your nonchinesium brush are fucked, either bent needle, dirty needle, blocked feed etc..

Post pics of your non-functional brush and pic of your functioning brush, with air and paint feeds visible.
>>
>>10955360
Hey I had a plane just like that when I was a kid, except it was grey, pretty cool to see it in a different paint.
>>
>>10971246
Just checked it again. Nozzle clear, needle unbent, but I decided to check yet another needle and nozzle, both unused, and the same thing happened. I'd show you the resulting paint stream, but none came out either time.
>>
>>10970890
Use a Scotch-Brite pad and a straight-edge razor on the transparencies.

>>10971237
UHU Por, specifically. UHU is good, but Por is gentler on plastics (including foam), so it is less likely to damaged the plastic.
>>
>>10970836
shit's gay man. why can't they just be normal
>>
>>10971464
They are way better than normal decals. Let them cure 24 hours then rub the film off with a cotton bud or brush dipped in white spirit. Zero silvering or visible film edge.
I wish Eduard made aftermarket decal sets for other manufacturer's kits.
>>
>>10971489
I did that, but it fucked up on some pokey protruding details. I notice also they explain none of this in the kit
>>
>>10971448
Then it is the feed. Either the paint is not feesing in or the air isn't. If air comes ojt comparable to pressure to yoir chinesium (just hold your hand in front of the nozzle to judge that) then it can only be the paint feed.
>>
Any anon here are familiar with the whole printed kit?

Wanna build 72 scale Merkava Mk2D and Mk4M but there's none of it, without any brands made these two types of tank.
My only choice is Chinese printed kit now, although I never built that before only modified parts so I'm worry a little bit.
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lIROq3M3GJo

Which one of you is this?
>>
>>10971554
Revell need to continue to exist, where else am I going to get my destroyed models from? I a not about to "sink" a flyhawk model, but I am fine doing it with a 15bucks revel model.
>>
>>10971554
>I don't have a drill
definitely an /smg/ poster
>>
>>10971559
Thing is, the bismark flyhawk model at 1:700 is only 10 bucks more than revell
>>
>>10971521
Well thanks for the advice. Still not sure on the exact cause since the sane thing happened with a new nozzle and needle, as well as after multiple attempts to clean. It even happened fresh out of the box.
>>
>>10971573
*same thing
>>
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I was recently lamenting to a buddy of mine how I made an order for the Meng AMX-30B 4 years ago and the store didn't guarantee me that it would even be able to place an order
I got the call today that they have received the AMX
Thank you tech overlords? Now my french shelf will have 3 tanks
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I keep my models on glass shelves but don't paint their undersides.
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>>10971603
I have zero frogshit. I'll either do a Mirage (F1 or 2000), or wait till there's an UAE Leclerc (UAE versions use German engines, so different engine deck).
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>>10971554
>>10971567
when he said he didn't have a hand drill, for a moment I thought he's gonna pull an AvE and take out a power tool to do the job
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>>10971223
you really thought they managed to add functioning LED strips this small?
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>>10971448
>Paasche.
It might be if it is a Paasche with interchangeable brass nozzles that the needle is pushed in too far and has therefore widened the nozzle. The needle now closes the nozzle not with the taper but with shaft. This can happen if one pushes the needle to far into the nozzle and destroying it in the process. It could also be that those are mismatched nozzles and needles.
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>>10971765
What should I look for if this I'd the case? Looming at either nozzle, nothing ses to be wrong with it.
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>>10971767
*Looking
Good lord I think I've been messing with airbrush cleaner too long.
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>poking at a 1/72 hawk from airfix to try and get back into modelling
>the fucking console panel decals don't fit
>as in the plasic console is rounded and thinner than the decals, and the sides of the decals both expand wider and angle outwards instead of inwards
what in the everloving fuck is this? bad enough that the instructions have pieces marked wrong, but these decals are supposed to have been new for the 2014 boxing
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>>10971785
sucks brah. is that one of the red arrows ones?
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>>10971847
Yeah, but as far as I can tell the design of the panel decal hasn't changed from the first in 08 to the latest from 22
In fact, looking at the decal sheets, even the glass cockpit from the hawk 100 release has the same wrong angle
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>>10971877
gay, that's the one I have. I guess cut the side bits and try to position them.
I've encountered wrong size or overhanging transfers a few times and I'm surprised not to have seen anyone else complain about it until now
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>>10971559
ironically, Revell kits are more expensive than Tamiya here. also it's missing the Nazi swastikas, so it's already inferior.
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>>10971921
Same here, revell more expensive than the highened kits that come with in-box PE parts. I don't understand why. I asked the store clerk once and he just shrugged with a "I don't set the prices". Really fucking puzzling.
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>>10971769
>>10971767
consider that perhaps the manufacturer or the store packed a mismatched nozzle+needle combo and all you can do is complain to them and try out another nozzle+needle to make sure it's alright

I have an H&S and both the nozzles and the needles have notches on them to mark the diameter; if yours match then it might be what that anon said and you have a damaged part
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I've been stalled on my plane for a week or so now.

Mired in autism.

Do I follow a book from 1949 regarding a ww2 camo scheme, or do I follow the instructions.

I don't particularly care about the subject, but I need to make a choice.

What do.

Reddit spacing btw.
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>>10973096
>Do I follow a book from 1949 regarding a ww2 camo scheme, or do I follow the instructions.
post them
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>>10973185
nothing exciting just the tamiya spitfire mk vb.
book is here
https://rclibrary.co.uk/files_titles/1949/Camouflage_Markings_001_SupermarineSpitfire.pdf
tamiya manual available on scalemates
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>>10967540
base coat and chipping done
now
post shading, weathering, building the tracks
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>>10973307
Why is he turning red.
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this one was before the chipping, I might have gone a bit too far with the chipping
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>>10973311
the idea was to simulate the removal of paint to bare metal, but maybe my colorblindness fucked me again
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>>10973307
Call him cookie cause boy, he chipped
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>>10973189
>404
are you posting from a uni library or are bongs just completely assinine about filtering out foreign IPs from everywhere? Fucking great firecliffs of dover over there
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>>10973327
https://rclibrary.co.uk/download_title.asp?ID=1949
maybe this'll work.
not at library.
just unaware of my great privilege.
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>>10973307
Bruh, fuel tanks, stowage bins, and main gun thermal sleeve are aluminum. So are roadwheels and probably a bunch of other shit as well. Side skirts are mesh-reinforced rubber.

And you were doing so good till now.
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>>10973357
isn't there a pink one
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>>10973591
sorry for not being that autistic, I'll see what I can do, I hate doing chipping by hand but it's salvageable



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