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File: uyhbyiug8.jpg (2.31 MB, 7487x4032)
2.31 MB JPG
The crotch on this figure is cracked. It's still holding together for the most part, so my question is, should I use some model cement and try to melt the cracks back together to prevent a total separation, or wait for it to inevitably break entirely, and super glue it then?
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>>11892488
We have a customs gen where this would be good to ask. I think you need to be sparing in what you attempt and try stuff that dries translucently. Find some cheap painted plastic bottles, maybe soap or something, and crack it and glue it first to test?
You want to avoid anything that will create crap that will be noticeable since it's clear
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>>11892488
>>11892488 (OP) #
Read below. It was easier to explain building off my reply to the other anon.
>>11892491 #
>Find some cheap painted plastic bottles, maybe soap or something, and crack it and glue it first to test?
Most bottles are made from PET (polyethylene terephthalate) which doesn't react to model cement like styrene does. And it will depend on what the figure is made from, which could be anything from polycarbonate to SAN (styrene acrylonitrile) to MABS (methyl methacrylate-acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene). It is most likely to be one of the last two. If it is more "rubbery" it is likely to be MABS. If it is rigid like a Lego brick, it is more likely to be SAN.
Model cement is made for styrene, and while SAN and MABS are technically styrene based, the acrylonitrile component of SAN and MABS makes it more resistant to reacting with the Butyl Acetate in model cement. So i doubt regular model cement will work.

This link has a bunch of info for bonding SAN.
https://permabond.com/bonding-san-styreneacrylonitrile/
The one I think will work best is a UV curable adhesive, which will maintain transparency on the figure.
https://permabond.com/products/uv-glue-uv-adhesive/
Alternatively, you could try a multi-plastic glue like MEK or Deluxe Materials Plastic Magic, which is formulated for a range of plastics including SAN. Plastic Magic says it also works on ABS, but doesn't specify MABS. It *should* work, but don't take my word on it since I don't know it's full composition
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>>11892591
Thanks. The thing that is most annoying is that the cracks are all basically "under" the surface, I notices some more cracks around the peg holding the torso together and I'm wondering if the plastic is shrinking and is stressing the whole figure. I was thinking by using the cement it would help melt the plastic and let it "relax" into the new shape.
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>>11892604
>the cracks are all basically "under" the surface
That's a bitch of a situation.
>I was thinking by using the cement it would help melt the plastic and let it "relax" into the new shape
I get your thinking, but for that to work the glue would need to melt all the way through the plastic, which is likely to completely deform it. I'm not even sure if the UV curable adhesive will work because the solvent needs to come into contact with the plastic being joined.
So to go back to your OP, it might be best to wait until it breaks to try anything. I don't think there will be any way to glue the cracks that are internal from the outside.
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>>11892591
My only point about testing was cosmetic.
You went into a lot of detail and I agree it would be helpful to know what, but unless anon (or someone) has custom fodder to test on, you have to test with something, and cheap clear colored plastic (even PET) is just something to test the appearance.
I personally would care about how something looks, once 'repaired.'
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>>11892488
Looks like it has a case of butthurt.
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>>11892681
>yo quierro Taco Bell
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>>11892604
>help melt the plastic
you can also accomplish this, without changing the composition of your plastic crack, with something as simple as a 5-10 minute hot water bath
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>>11892488
Heat may make the cracking less noticeable, it's my go-to for fixing stress marks in plastic. Hot water probably isn't a good idea, but try pointing a hair dryer (a heat gun is better if you have one, but start looowwwwww) at the cracks. It won't join the parts back together but might help the discoloration.
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>>11892893
>>11893033
Heat helps reduce stress marks, but these are actual separation cracks, the only thing holding the crotch together is the central peg, if I pulled it with barely any force the whole thing would shatter.
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>>11893033
I do prefer a hair dryer and went and grabbed one from Goodwill but most anons are lazy fucks and just use hot water, which is why I suggested the hst
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>>11892488
You can buy a new one for $6. Who cares.
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>>11892488
COCK INJURED
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>>11893195
Why would I buy a new thing when I can repair the thing I already own for free?
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>>11893708
As it's a clear translucent figure you will be able to see almost anything that you use to attempt to fix it. Also you're clearly a dumbass so you wouldn't even do a decent job of it, meaning it will both look bad and not be as sturdy.
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>>11893764
>As it's a clear translucent figure you will be able to see almost anything that you use to attempt to fix it.
So?
>Also you're clearly a dumbass so you wouldn't even do a decent job of it
You're projecting.
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File: fracturedass.jpg (19 KB, 480x360)
19 KB JPG
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>>11893267
wrong side of the body, sister
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>>11893765
You're right, you should use super glue and some epoxy resin all over the fucking thing, maybe draw on some details with a black sharpie while you're at it since the transgreen of the figure washes out some of the details.
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>>11894053
What is it about the idea of fixing a figure that offends you so much?
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>>11894337
You can get a new one for $6. Your fix will not look good because most things that bond plastic will not dry invisible, and potentially still be fragile, and the materials to fix it if you don't already have them will be more expensive than just getting another one. You're being a retard.
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>>11894421
>Your fix will not look good because most things that bond plastic will not dry invisible
The only person it needs to satisfy visually is me, and I'll enjoy the satisfaction of fixing it and still having the figure over buying a whole new one.
>and potentially still be fragile
Potentially, but not likely, plenty of glues these days are incredibly strong and even if it wasn't it'd be less fragile that it currently is.
>the materials to fix it if you don't already have them will be more expensive than just getting another one
But I do own the materials. This thread was never about what glue I should buy to repair it, it was what the better option of the two I had.
>You're being a retard.
No, you're just being fucking weird. Yes I CAN go an buy a new one, although I don't know where you're pulling that $6 price from, all the listings I've just looked at on eBay are at least double that before shipping even gets involved, but more importantly, why should I? Why spend any money when I could glue the figure back together and stick it on a shelf and be satisfied. Throwing away a figure that will be perfectly suitable for what I want and buying another one which could very well end up with the same issue is wasteful and stupid.

Ultimately though the it's MY toy, and MY decision what to do with it, and I'm going to fix it and keep it no matter what you say or think. Hell even if I never fix it and the crotch crumbles to little pieces, I can take all those pieces and put them in a little box and put it in the back of a closet until the day I die if I want.
If that pisses you off then you can just sit there and by more butthurt than my toy with the broken ass.
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>>11894452
tldr but Im happy for you or sorry that happened
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>>11895082
>Retard can't handle reading
In other news water is wet.
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>>11892488
Looks like some cheap 5 poa figure that isn’t worth saving
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>>11895242
Okay, but I'm gonna.
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File: 1271004871941.jpg (52 KB, 583x498)
52 KB JPG
>>11894452
Not that guy, but I really think you net to step off the internet and take a breather.
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>>11895934
This is 4chinz
The home of Imbeciles Who Are ALWAYS Gonna Imbecile
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>>11895934
>>11895964
This is why /toy/ fucking sucks these days. You make a thread about toy repair, and schizos decide that it's some kind of heinous crime.
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>>11896007
Don't @ me, son.
I agree all these assholes are shitting up the board
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>>11894452
I'm the first person that replied to you, and like I said, we have a customs general, where people engage civilly, and either ignore posters or posts, or answer intelligently and politely, without resorting to the cheap and easy meme responses or name calling that everyone else thinks is 'owning' another anon.
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>>11892488
So did you solve this?
Or toss it?
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>>11898358
I have tested two different model cements, Tamiya and Revell. The Tamiya didn't do anything at all, but the Revell seems to have created a pretty decent bond, I'm going to leave it for a while and see if anything like discolouration of degeneration of the plastic happens. Given that the cracks are largely on the inner side of the plastic, right now I'd only be treating the very surface, so I think in the meantime I'm going to leave the figure alone and should it fully break in future I will then glue all the parts back together with the Revell cement.
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>>11898530
Thank for listing the brands. I just got some quick drying/setting spray, that normally gets sold with a bonding agent, but I got it for free, from Walmart, in exchange for an "incentivized review." I didn't even have to write a review since I had nothing to bond with other that regular tubes of shit like gorilla glue.
But since I recognize Ravell from my friend who does models, that is something to buy to test.
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>>11899399
Just a quick update, the Revell model cement has not caused any noticeable discolouration or brittleness. It has obviously slightly melted the plastic (like it is supposed to), so be careful of texture on anything you use it on. Fortunately for me I'm working with smooth plastic.
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>>11900625
Thanks



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