Riding season started above the equator EditionFAQ on buying a bike that nobody reads anyway:> What good bike can I get for under $500?a stolen bike. Possibly a newer used entry level hardtail but don't expect it to survive rock gardens, jumps, or drops. Or an older mtb which won't be as good as newer ones and will still have a front derailleur, but it'll be good enough.> What good bike can I get for under $1000Good used hardtail, new entry level hardtail> What good bike can I get for under $2000?New Hardtail, decent used full suspension> What good bike can I get for under $3000?https://www.yt-industries.com/fr/produits/velos/capra/uncaged-10-al/602/capra-mx-uncaged-10/Used full suspension, decent entry level full suspension but prepared to put more money into it.> What are the excellent value brands?Marin, Commencal, Canyon, Polygon, YT, Propain, Kona, and many more. Sometimes the expensive brands have an excellent alue bike>> What are the differences between an XC, Trail, Enduro, and Downhill bikes?XC bikes are for going up fast, go down not as fast. Trail bikes are for going up and down. Enduro bikes are for going down fast, and slower up. Downhill bikes are for going down really fast, needs a ski lift, truck, or the rider pushing it to go up.Link to previous thread:>>180616
Just came back from riding.Snow finally melting up in the mountain but trail has fallen branches and loose rocks all over it due to the snow. Lower part was perfect and beautiful. An incredibly fast bumpy straight section in the forest, loamy brown-red dirt, grass growing on the sides and lots lots of tiny bright flowers. Just went fast and pumping everything I could. If I had recorded it would've been absolute KINO.https://youtube.com/clip/Ugkx4JSCNAdo9CeMu1XJ9XNe4Jw3iLcRp6ft?si=N-0RCU6jRa3tDFM6 Like this but with lots of bright white,yellow, purple flowers. Luv' sunny spring riding days, no nigger mosquitos, not too hot, not too cold, not too dry, not to wet.
> good weather this week> got sick, didn't ride> good weather next week> out of town, trailforks only shows some forest roads in the areaBut the week after is going to be really fun.
How do I build up better endurance when climbing? any tips apart from riding more.
>>193074If you go up a gear and keep the same cadence, you'll be moving faster, and not be climbing as long, and endurance won't matter as much. T. Gym enthusiast gorilla suit climber
>>193074>better endurance when climbing?What is giving out first, your legs, or your cardio (excessive heart rate, and heavy breathing)?
I bought a MTB in 2019 for $800Used it like 5 times since then and want to sell it. How much should I put it up for?
>>193108https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DgzdvhEct5s
Serviced fork at 30 hrs since last time the damper blew at 45 hrs.There's Little to no dirt inside but the Air spring side was pretty dry in terms of oil. I just changed the oil since apparently the dust wipers are still good, all hail SKF and their top tier japanese dynamic seal engineering
>>193182>SKF and their top tier japanese dynamic seal engineeringSKF's stuff is designed in New Afghanistan by the minority populationHow tf do you blow dampers, never had one do it. Do you put up too much grease oil or no grease or oil. Shocks i'd understand but why would you use an air shock in fkrat place
>>193095My legs, I control my breathing just fine.
>>193190>SKF's stuff is designed in New Afghanistan by the minority populationIdk about thathttps://skf-jobs.dzconnex.com/job-details/seal-product-design-engineer-in-engineering-technology-jobs-877092After further research it appears SKF is pretty multinational.>How do you blow up dampersIdk I guess I ride too hard, my guess is that the fork flexes too much during compression causing some minor abrasion over time that leads to seal failure. This could be solved by having a non rigid sealhead at the end of the damper, basically not bolting the sealhead to the end of the damper assembly, but Instead having a sealhead that can move around with the shaft thay it seals. Or just make the fork stiffer, but at that point i should just go ride a 38/zeb. It should be noted that word on the street around Asheville is that even the engineers that work at canecreek don't ride the fork because of their inability to take a beating, bushings being dislocated, dampers blowing up being the main issues. This type of wear is mainly just being fully on the brakes through a rock garden and having the fork set in its longest travel configuration. That and sending 12ft drops to flat.
>he does not mention his settingsCommon
>>193361I weight 170lbs decent upper and good lower body strength.2023 cane creek helm mk22023 Rockshox super deluxe coil ultimate B1fork set at 80psi with ~82psi in the negative chamber, and zero spacers, this is about 18-20% sag. I run the damper fully closed. and 5-6 clicks of rebound depending on the trail. slightly less rebound for more bump absorption and to prevent packing up and keep it more composed through high speed chunder, think trails where its just 4-5inch bumps and roots while going 20mph, more rebound for a more composed feel on flow trails.its negligable overall so I just leave it at 5 most of the time more rebound for a more grounded feel for 70% of the timeOn the rear shock i run a 450lb spring this is right at ~20% sagI ride a 2023 banshee rune v3.2 with 27.5 wheels I also run the damper on my shock fully closed, it currently has the low compression tune in it and I need to retune it for the medium or high compression tune as it currently doesn't have enough HSC or and the wheel bounces around too much causing it to feel drifty. LSC is adequate the spring does 90% of the lifting and it has tons of pedal bob which it doesn't have enough LSC to help tune out. The lockout works great and its very smooth. But I also need to afford groceries and a new rim/spokes so I probably won't retuning it soon.
>>193379tire pressure 25-26 in the front 28-32 in the rearI keep blowing the rear tire off the rim so thats why its so high for my weight. I blew it up again at 30psi casing the last stepup at Ride rock creeks downhill course last weekend.
>>193074Buy a lighter bike
>>193074lose weight>>193277Hit the gym, ride at a higher cadence, and yes... ride more.If I take it easy I can ride further. If I go at my "race pace" I can run my heartrate up and get cramps in most of my leg muscles like a retard.>>193381Could always run a heavier casing tire in the rear if you want to run lower pressures.Maybe you just hit gnarly shit at incredibly hihg speds
>>193074>wahh wahh I can't keep up climb>picrel solutionI take chocolate bars and isotonic drink and if it a big ride I make sure to buy coke cans on the way. This made me last the biggest climb(1200m) with DH runs every 300m. I was kill but I fucking lasted. Isotonic drinks, eat before you take it if not you'll upset the stomach and literally shit yourself while riding. From experience. >>193446>heavier casing tire in the rearThis is the solution to muuh I keep destroying rear wheels. I really don't know why someone would use softer casing unless they are doing XC. Using lighter casing is asking for all disadvantages of tires.
>want to change my Zeb A1 from 170mm to 150mm >Refuse to pay for the A2 Buttercup upgrade because the current setup feels great>Need A1 150mm air shaft, 0-30 oil, 38mm seal kit>Every website I check has 2/3 of these itemsHave any anons upgraded to the buttercups, is it worth it?
>>193446Idk, I think I just lack enough skills to be gentler with the bike. I'm significantly slower than the local World Cup pros. I'm a little faster than the grooms who practically live at the DH park. I'm definitely not fast enough to go pro. or get sponsored
>>193379>Cane creak>No volume tokens>Compressionmaxxed to compensate for lack of end-stroke supportA classic tale as old as time itself. You could try adding some tokens to the air spring and backing off the compression damping to see if you get more life out of the damper/seals. What you're doing is taking the work that the air spring should be doing and putting it on the compression damping circuit instead. It'll likely ride substantially better when you actually have support from the air spring to boot.>>193381>Blowing tire off rimCould simply be a bad rim/tire combo if you already have the appropriate casing tire. It used to be much worse before tubeless was officially a thing when the fit of the bead was usually pretty loose. Some guys would have to run 35+psi just to keep their tires on the rims for race runs kek
New bike ad kino droppedhttps://youtu.be/n1e_9IB4viI?si=D_z_OeKq7aTQKLh2Oscillations and Return of the Rockies were better imo. Looks like a santa cruz/specialized enduro.
>>193596>no alloy frameset>gap between 475 and 505 reachNo from meHow many people are going to buy a 4k USD rocky mountain frame anyways? Surely anyone who isn't just buying 2023 stuff that is still being auctioned off for peanuts is going with an established dentist brand or something a bit more hip
>>193477The problem isn't that i am lacking in end stroke support. I have it setup for more trail riding anyways. The reason I have it setup that way is because more linear setups have more midstroke support, and more predictable rebound. I also don't bottom it out regularly.It should also be noted that fully closed on my forks is the equivalent to 1/3 closed on a fox38 on my friends pivot firebird. So damping forces are not high. >>193477>Could simply be a bad rim/tire combo if you already have the appropriate casing tireYeaI think that a mismatching tire and rim are a definite possibility. I never had this problem when the tire was new.
>>193628Rocky Mountain owns Bikes.com who’s really the hip one here
Just did a travel change and lowers service on my forks for the first time ever, I can't remember the last time I felt this genuinely pleased with myself. I can do everything else mechanically on a bike, suspension is the last step to be 100% self sufficient. Fork feels beautiful and supple now, it must have needed it. I'd honestly rather do a fork lowers service now than install and index a derailleur. Way easier.
>>193704I don't even know what you want from the fork? Leave everything open on the damper side and just focus on the airspring side. Compression just to slow things down. Rebound should be open either wayHmmmm>I have it setup for more trail riding anyways>I also don't bottom it out regularly>sending 12ft drops to flat>I also don't bottom it out regularly>downhill course last weekendIts seems you have the wrong setup for the shit you are doing. Or larping the other. Stop with the linear thing, you leave all the work for the damper. Ofc its gonna shit itself and die if its doing the work the airspring should be doing>>193819Working on suspension makes you feel like you are actually doing something, like a proTransmission problem solving is the bane of my existence along with internal routing.
>>193859>Leave everything open on the damper side>Rebound should be open either wayThat's even worse than compressionmaxxing lmao. All >>193704 needs to do is add a few tokens, keep the same pressure, a few fewer clicks of HSC, a few extra clicks of HSR and he'll be set. That way he gets similar mid-stroke feeling at the same sag, better end-stroke support, and less chatter on high frequency bumps from the compression circuit. Also there'll be less stress on the seals of the damper.>>193704>I have it setup for more trail riding anywaysI haven't used the helm meself, but people tend to run less damping on trail setups since higher compression damping tends to make high frequency bumps very tiring unless you're absolutely pinned. It's possible the helm just has a wack tune, but I think you'll find the suspension feels more "active" if you try the tokens + less compression damping. It's not a difficult adjustment to make, so if you haven't tried it, I'd say it's worth at least testing out.>linear setups have more predictable reboundThat's not true on modern suspension that isn't mega budget. But again, perhaps I'm just naïve to how over it is for cane creak owners
Apparently the UK has had the wettest 18 months on record so my complaining about the weather and crap trail conditions are justified. Trails are starting to dry due to it simly being warmer, however it is still raining most days meaning that trails are still constantly somewhat muddy.>>193379>>193704Is not the entire issue with this setup the fact that you have an imbalance between your front and rear suspension? Having 20% sag seems kind of low considering most manufactuers recommend ~30%, especially with the fact that the frame itself has a 29% progressivity (what I could find online). Thats going to end up making you put more weight on your front wheel and cause you to have these issues. Either add more a couple psi more pressure, add in a volume spacer or 2 with the same pressure and see how that fairs or go down a spring rate in the rear. >>193819Freed of the shackles of bikeshops and paying stupid prices for someone else to do a job which takes an hour max to complete by a novice. The only reason to ever go to a bike shop is to get a rear shock serviced because most need to be charged with nitrogen.
>>193892Forgot to clarify that I am talking about your rear shock being too stiff compared to your fork potentially causing these issues.
>>193884Compressionmaxx is based
>>193819Can you service a roxshox shock as well? I've done some research into it, but it looks like something that should be left to a pro...
>>193884Its not worse, fluid flows freely and you can go faster on chunky terrain knowing the fork will be extended and as its high on the travel it'll be plush.LSC should be the answer to be high on the travel if token/airpressure isn't working. Cloaing rebound will just make the fork take more time to extend leaving you with less available travel, riding lower on the travel and harsh ride due to higher force required to compressI was going to do a data acquisition thing like picrel for a university project this semester to help me even more tune it by seeing the f spectrum. With the objective on leaving high frequency stuff. But instead I went to do beamforming which isn't working out and I'll faip the class.
>>193859Lmao are you the internal cable guy from the end of the last thread? My most recent transmission woe was a strand of the cable breaking inside the guide, then working back and wrapping itself around the internal shifter mechanism lmao >>193892It's a good feeling, also a feeling of achievement. Arguably, unless you want your fork to be performing at a top 1% kind of level, air will get you 78% of the way there. If you want nitrogen instead of pressurised air in your spring for whatever reason, go nuts, but it's not required. I think if you were to service your gear regularly, 50 hours, etc, even the "moisture content and oxidation" argument dries up too imo. >>193932I've done the air can before, it's pretty easy. The worst that happened was I fucked up the quad seals by leaving 2 seals out of it because I got distracted, and the air just hissed out when I was cycling the shock during setup. I also shit myself when the negative chamber retained a little pressure and I took the can off and it popped loudly lol. Let the air out slowly, don't let the shock suck in. I'll do the full rebuild at 200 hours for sure, all you're doing is pulling apart, replacing seals, greasing, and putting together and re-torqueing. Rockshox has a huge amount of content out there for at home servicing, it's the main reason I keep buying their stuff. They sell seal kits, there's service manuals with instructions, and instructional videos. Watching videos of other guys doing it too is useful, because everyone does it differently and you'll learn something new, or a handy tip. It definitely seems like a far more intimidating task than it actually is. Just be careful of the shafts.
>>193041places in the USA to mtb on? Im new and live in IL
>>194000>I want to do mtb>I live in flatlandEvery single time. Kek. Either you stop doing corn and head west for the rockies like the pioneers in the 19th century did in search of better trails and the highest of peaks or die knowing that you could've literally lived on one of Alberts Bierstadt's paintings hanging on the wall you stared all those years.
Watching the WC is quite depressing knowing I’d be miles behind. >>193892yeah it’s been so wet I’ve been sending more time last couple of months on roads and avoiding areas I know would be mudfests, I generally don’t mind the mud but lots of areas were just too thick. Went out yesterday after this recent dry spell and last couple of days of good weather and it was an odd mix of muddy as fuck v bits that had dried out. Wasn’t helped by it having been several weeks since last went out.
I was at a cheap store yesterday and saw a footpump for 7€ with a pressure gauge. I've never had a pressure gauge other than fingers as I know how I like the tire through experience. I inflated my tire while I gauged it with my finger, once I felt it good I picked up the pump to check the pressure. 30PSI on the rear. Man I thought I was 23 at most and ~18 on the front by reading all tire pressure posts on pinkbike. How do people ride under 20 PSI without destroying the wheel? Lowering it to ~23 I feel it dangerously soft to destroy my wheel, I use DH casing and weigh <60kg with full dh protection kit. No wonder my 7 year old hand pump got extremely hot when pumping my tires. Based michelin tires keeping insane grip at 30psi. The "rule of thumb" of dividing weight by 7 would would have me at 18psi.How much pressure do you guys run?
>>19405721 on DH casing; finger test is a noob filter and you failed, woodenwheels
>>194063The inverse of filtered, several years of experience gave me perfect intuition. Pumped up tires roll fucking fast, I don't care about loss of grip bc michelin and I can just yeet myself into chunder city without worrying about killing the wheel and I'll be rolling fast. 21 psi? Doesn't that drag you too much even on the descent, I'd need to pedal on a 100% grade DH to get proper speed. https://youtube.com/shorts/YHf-KajC53I?si=6lkaeZgeVp3CoMt3I don't have a team of mechanics giving me wheels aswell everysingle time there's a scratch on it on the rim
>>194045Yeah most of the time it's been utterly miserable, so I've felt quite lucky getting in one or two rides a week this winter. A lot of the local trails are horrible in the wet too because they're all peat with off-camber roots meaning that basically every ride you are falling off at some point. There are a couple trails where the top soil has been eroded away from years of use and there is now a weird mix of rocks, roots, sand and mud. I've also seen quite a few surrons for the first time which I'm dreading this summer as they will most likely ruin the trails without a care in the world. There are already the handicapped boomer stava ebikers which straight line steep berm tracks to try for KOM's as they're incapable of any bike control, so adding to that is just going to ruin an already sparsely maintained trail system.>>194057>>194085I wouldnt put much stock in a cheap floor pump pressure gauge being accurate. However, there should be zero reason to ride such high pressures at your weight with DH casing. As someone which is 60kg fully kitted also, I run 19-21psi conti DH casing front (conti please make enduro casing super softs I beg of you), 22-24psi conti enduro casing rear on my full sus both 2.4" and on my hardtail 17-20psi front, 23-26psi rear (purely to avoid denting my rim) both 2.6" schwalbe super gravity casing. These settings are mostly for trail riding, but for going to a bikepark such as dyfi, I'd add a psi or 2 extra to the top end of those measurements. Not running inserts in either bike. I think you have a misunderstanding of tyres as most professionals riding DH, most likely much faster and harder than you on tracks much rougher, are riding around 22-25psi front and 25-30psi rear. Unless you are using chinesium grade spaghetti wheels it makes zero sense to ride pressures so high.
>>194120I would think you need to take into account the weight of the the system ie. you and the bike and bag rather than just you. 25 psi is very different when you are unloaded on an xc bike, to when you are fully kitted on a DH rig.
>>194085Rolling resistance is not on my mind when picking DH pressure at all; stability (hate squirm), survivability and lastly grip is what I’m considering. If you have all 3 of those, you will be faster. If one of those factors isn’t lining up for me, I would reach for a different tire (casing specifically). I don’t think tire hysterisis inefficiency is something you can really feel when you’re pointed 30° down a hill
>>194151Anon is riding DH casing tyres, unless he is ungodly retarded he's not riding XC with them. Also realistically his bike is going to weigh from 14kg with an xc or hardtail to 25kg with a full fat eeb with most enduro/trail bikes weighing around 17kg. Either way having such high pressures just makes riding uncomfortable and ends up making you slower from all of the bouncing around and not having consistent traction. From the vital clip (looks like val di sole) he posted I am assuming that he will be doing trail to DH riding which would mean similar pressures are appropriate for those disciplines. They would have to be riding real fast and hard to be having issues with DH casing tyres no matter the overall system weight.
Anyone need a new frame? get on it
I enjoy hiking and want to try mountain biking the same/similar trails, but this seems really fucking expensive when I also just have my feet to use. How much maintenance are you looking at or can you mostly just strap your bike to the back of your car and be done with it?
>>194120I can test pressure with another gauge and it might be the case as it surprised me aswell. On the front I run quite low pressure(I haven't measured) but rear requires high pressure. When you go to the bikepark you use 28 in the rear, thats close to what I ride(with finger gauging). It's not extreme, the 32-33psi on the pic is extreme but I like to have in the rear for climbing and just remove a bit it to the 28s-30s before I start doing laps or going down. Pros run inserts and don't care about destroying the bike. Ex511s but I don't want to kill a rim as it's almost 2 weeks without riding.My range should be at most 40lb I think>>194155If you put higher pressure it'll roll faster. >>194156>just makes riding uncomfortable and ends up making you slower from all of the bouncing around and not having consistent traction.Its not uncomfortable on the rear, 30psi might be the limit of how high I'd go but definetly rideable. The front on the other hand I can easily tell when it has bit more pressure. Michelin's MAGI-X has very low rebound rubber so it might help. Along with a good coil shock setup. I think it was a couple months ago I posted that I switched to a lighter coil and it felt good and I was able to run higher pressure thus rolling faster.Next time run high pressure on the rear, open up rebound on the shock, 30% sag or 35%, no compression or no HSC/almost closed LSC. You'll feel the rear more active, rolls easier. Not crazy hogh pressure but higher than normal.
>>194165But I’m not rolling, I’m falling with style
>>194163Just buy a 90's mtb and start on easy trails.The less suspension and tech you have the cheaper the bike and parts.Generally suspension is every 50 or 100 hours for a basic fluid change or seal swap.Chains need lubricant when they get noisy which is based on terrain(more dirt/mud =more lubing).If you go low tech it can be cheap, but you have to be your own mechanic. If you already have a city/commuter bike take that slowly on some fire roads to see how you like it. You can make it as expensive or cheap as you want it too be.
>>194158They will probably put out a new spindrift this year. Lets just hope germoids read all the hate comments on pinkbike and put a damn hole in the frame. And shorten the seatpost
>>194211I have no bike at all, I've just gotten bored recently of the 'slowness' of hiking and every time I see a mountain biker going by me they are having tons of funLooking at the OP sounds like I wnat a 'used hardtail' and a 'trail bike' because I want to go up and down
Thinking of getting a Marlin 5 Gen 3 to get me started. Thoughts?
>>194275it is a reliable bike aimed at beginners. I would aim for the $200-350 price point based on the parts and its age. There are probably lots of these that people bought during the pandemic and are unaware of how their value has recently fallen. Good luck on your two wheeled adventure anon
>>194280Ah yeah you're right. Should look into FB marketplace.
>>193975>NodamperAh yes, the yin to the compressionmaxxer's yang. >fluid flows freely and you can go faster on chunky terrainOnce you start riding faster and hitting bigger features, you do not want all of the energy that is put into the suspension returned to you, especially on chunky terrain. Underdamped suspension only feels good in the parking lot. Modern suspension has so much adjustability so riders can get the ideal amount of damping. >LSC should be the answer to be high on the travel if token/airpressure isn't working.Bottoming out is typically the result of things that cause high shaft-speeds (landing jumps, drops, square-edge hits), so the fix for this is adding HSC, not LSC in the majority of situations.
So glad I’m fucking autistic and have a great grasp on suspension dynamics but such a weak grasp of communication that trying to post about it isn’t even a viable option. The bike tells you exactly what to do, but it’s speaking in bicycle; if you translate those needs to english and type them out, its actually cognitively harmful and lowers your fluency in bicycle
does anyone ride fixed fork treks anymore, those things were invincible
>>194163Think I spent like $40 getting stuff for a lower service, $60 kit + yearly $10 fluid for bleeding brakes, $30 tub of grease that’ll outlast my grandchildren, I’m on some fancy $15 lube as well (lasts 2 years), lots of $30 tools I often need 1-2 of to do a specific job for the first time. And that’s for basic maintenance of nice brand new stuff. I’ve gone over a year on a few of my bikes (nice ones) without doing any preventative maintenance whatsoever and 90% of the time it barely makes any difference. Sometimes my bearings seize and I learn my lesson, but that’s rare. I barely spend any money on “needed” maintenance, but I do like to indulge on fancy tools and the latest upgrades, I’ve had “needed” replacements a few times (BB, derailleur, wheels) which aren’t cheap, but “needed” maintenance is rarely over a $50 receipt for the whole year once you have the tools
>>194318Rigid is becoming a bit popular lately with the whole gravel=90’s mtb meme and the fact that a lot of the standards used on these $20-100 bikes still exist on modern parts. I put together a 1996 cannondale with all modern parts and while it is amazing, corners incredibly tight, launches at dirt jumps and rides unlike any of my other 4 mountain bikes, it’s shaky, skips tires everywhere, and is hard to carry speed with. I think rigid bikes are just inferior off-road, but it’s worth putting together for the experience
>>194326You just have to pick the right trails. Rigid makes the easy trails exciting and worth riding. The singletrack and fireroads I ride with my gravel bike are not worth the wear on the tires of my mtbs, but they're a lot of fun on rigid. Those beginner parks full of normies actually become fun on rigid. It's funny watching old guys on high end mtbs and eMTBs pedalling up this same shit though.
>>194332The thing is though, I have a gravel bike and it’s actually more suitable for singletrack with its wide handlebar and 2.0” tires (but 700c instead of 26”) and frame made of steel rather than 90’s lightasfuck-style aluminum
New to the hobby. What are some reputable bike brands for me to choose as a first ?
>>194339Probably be best to google a mass review of enduro/trail bikes to get an idea of what brands and bikes exist. I know a few websites have “field test” or “bike bible” mass review kinda stuff every few years
>>194339I have YT, Chromag, Kona, Cannondale and Specialized. They’re all using the same parts, which aren’t cheap, so you’re not gonna find many actually “bad” bikes these days after a certain pricepoint. As far as frame quality goes, all “real” frames are decent enough, even the cheapest Giant-made outsourced frame (which still goes on a minimum $500 bike) is quality metalworking these days. What’s really going to ruin your bike experience is awful parts that constantly need adjustment, or things like wrong tires for the riding
This week is my first week back riding after breaking my leg in February. Still off work for another 3 weeks or so. Did my first reasonable climb today, I haven't lost so much cardio fitness, but I've lost leg strength endurance. Caught the bus up, rode down, then rode up, rode down again. As it was a week day, I had all the tracks to myself so I spent some time taking an asshole photo of my bike while I was resting. >>194333I love my gravel bike. Greens are blues, and blues are blacks. I don't ride it enough.
>>194307>you do not want all of the energy that is put into the suspension returned to you, especially on chunky terrain.Thats the opposite, it doesn't get transfered to you but absorbed and returned through the lowers. It is a wrong setup if you mostly do jumplines like A line but good for tech gnar shit. Mine feels the hard in the parking lot as LSC is almost closed but hit a square edge going mach 5 it's going to feel smooth.>Bottoming out is typically the result of things that cause high shaft-speeds (landing jumps, drops, square-edge hits), so the fix for this is adding HSC, not LSC in the majority of situationsThat quoted part was for riding high in the travel, not against bottoming out but helps. LSC will control lower frequencies(low shaft speed). The thing is that shaft behavior is not just high/low/intermediate speeds but a composition of the them. If you have a rolling terrain with buch of roots, rocks square edges, it moving due to alot of stuff. If you analyze the fork movement/shaft speeds on the frequency domain you should see 2 frequencies. The lowest one is caused by the rolling terrain and the highest one due to the chunky terrain. You as a rider don't want to feel the rocks, roots and shit but the rolling terrain to pump the bike. See the first curve of the fork movement(0 is sag point, max travel is 4 units) with respect to time, a big amplitude movement with low f caused by rolling terrain and the high frequency component due to the chunk. If you close LSC you limit the low frequency movement and you end up with the 3rd picture, the fork absorbing the hits of roots/rocks and the rolling terrain is the feedback you'll get. If you close HSC rather than LSC you get the 2nd chart. Here the forkonly moves with respect of the rolling terrain, movemen due to trail chatter is limited thus translated to you. Here you see the fork riding in low in the travel, taking 2 units. With LSC closed its riding higher in the travel, max is 1 unit.
>>194307Now lets say that at the bottom of the roll there's a big ass rock that the fork normally moves 2 5 units with it. If HSC is closed, the fork will be using alot of travel (~2units)at the bottom of the roll and when it encounters the rock it won't have enough travel to absorb the hit, thus bottoming out(2+2.5=4.5, beyond max travel of 4). If you had LSC closed you'd ride high in the travel where is more plush and have lots of extra travel and you'll be able to take the hit without issue as you see in the pics. I rather use volume spacers instead of HSC as all hits will feel harsher. Just try it, LSC close closed, no HSC, open or very close to open rebound, 1 or no spacers. Plus tire pressure thing>>194312Just do, through ramblings there might be useful info
>>194369>it doesn't get transfered to you but absorbed and returned through the lowers.Ok, where does the energy stored in the spring go when it's not dissipated by the damper?>good for tech gnar shitToo little HSC will cause you to ride deep in the suspension travel where spring forces are higher. This will generally result in a harsh, skittery feeling - this is why HSC is needed when riding fast on tech gnar shit. Of course too much HSC can cause a harsh feeling, but generally the harder you ride, the more HSC damping is needed. >>194370I'm not saying LSC should be open, I'm saying HSC damping is what helps prevent high forces from causing bottom outs. The more HSC damping there is, the more force the LSC circuit effectively handles. If there is too little HSC, a roll could cause the LSC circuit to be bypassed.>Just try it, LSC close closed, no HSCI don't think you understand how compression damping circuits work. Think of the high-speed circuit as a pressure relief valve because that's basically what it is. If you have the high-speed circuit open too easily, the low-speed circuit will do nothing since it will always be bypassed by the high-speed circuit. You will find most racers and senders in general run more HSC since they are putting more force through their suspension, so they need more HSC damping to prevent the LSC circuit from being bypassed all the time. In your example, if you run little to no HSC, you will blow through the travel before the rock because the LSC circuit will be bypassed from the g-out at the bottom of the roll.>I rather use volume spacers instead of HSC as all hits will feel harsher.More HSC will cause your suspension to ride higher, and will generally allow for a smoother feeling overall since the spring forces are lower earlier in the travel. Of course too much HSC can cause a harsh feeling as well, but the ideal amount can be found easily by bracketing.
>>194405>Too little HSC will cause you to ride deep in the suspension travel where spring forces are higher. This will generally result in a harsh, skittery feeling - this is why HSC is needed when riding fast on tech gnar shit.LSC will be keeping you high in the travel as it'll not use 70% of its travel on a small rocks at slow speed. But if you are going mach jesus, it'll use the travel as it should. Using HSC will limit the high velocity movement from mach jesus. Look at the charger 3. LSC's closed total damping force at low velocity is higher than open and will not blow through the travel. Meanwhile closed HSC(open lsc)will blow through the travel at low velocities. >not saying LSC should be open, I'm saying HSC damping is what helps prevent high forces from causing bottom outsYou wouldn't need to if you had available travel left for the fork to do its job by running LSC. >think you understand how compression damping circuits work. Think of the high-speed circuit as a pressure relief valve because that's basically what it is. If you have the high-speed circuit open too easily, the low-speed circuit will do nothing since it will always be bypassed by the high-speed circuit. You will find most racers and senders in general run more HSC since they are putting more force through their suspension, so they need more HSCHere is where changes with design have an effect, like the charger 3 and the picture of "other dampers" where lsc/hsc were coupled. You'd still see the difference LSC makes.Just do it, one ride with LSC closed.
>>194405>Ok, where does the energy stored in the spring go when it's not dissipated by the damperFork extends. It's easier to move the lowers+wheel due to the lower mass than you+bike. If wheel is one the ground then the force enacted by (You) - force of the spring. If you put a force of 6 gorillion N and the spring uts a force of 6.000001 gorillion N then the force upwards felt will be 0.000001 gorillion N. But we know the job is too dissipate. Landing a 6ft drop to flat will give you the same return speed as a 3ft drop. The velocity of the return will be limited to rebound.
guys remember, even if your suspension has 100% thermal efficiency and loses zero energy, it can still dump that energy into wobbling your body up and down if you don’t know how to ride. In fact all of the energy losses of suspension forks combined will NEVER overcome the momentum loss of suspension that doesn’t function properly when you bump into a rock. Thermal efficiency fags are dumb and missing the point
>>194412>Look at this one exceptionNow read the article you took that from. Are you still going to give that advice to anons who haven't consoomed this one specific product? It's neat that they could get it to do that at extremely low shaft speeds, but most people will prefer a curve that falls in the middle, which is easily achievable with a standard design.>>194415Ok, now this is based
>>194405The LSC and HSC are very well separated, it’s not “the LSC is taking over what the HSC should’ve” it’s your LSC is stiff and supportive as fuck and HSC remains a supple smooth “blowoff” that’ll completely sink into the travel if you ever pass that bumpspeed threshold. If you don’t pass that bumpspeed threshold, your fork will just feel “stiff”. Take out your damper cartridge and give it a few squeezes; some slow and extremely forceful pushes (LOTS of resistance, LSC) and some quick and sharp but low-force pushes (the damper instantly collapses, HSC) it’s very educational
>>194415The job isnt to dissipate energy, that’s the job of your legs and arms, the job of suspension is to instantly articulate over the rocks in real time (faster than your muscles can activate) while also giving your a strong and consistent “platform” for your arms and legs to push against. The job of suspension is to flail wildly about so you can keep your body weight/momentum moving through the air in as straight of a line as possible
Have you men traveled out of state (us people) to ride trails? I live in a flat state.
>>194438No but I’ve ridden trails while on vacation (the one DH bike park in the country was on the opposite side)
>>194438Just the novelty of a new(to you) trail is worth it.
Which helmet do you guys own? I watched this video last night. https://youtu.be/ZKbYaOiz5U4
>>194515In addition to CSPC certification and DOT certification, we should also pay attention to Seths Bike Hacks (SBH) certification
>>194515I have the spesh one in the video but looking for a new 1/2 shell to replace it. Its been on sale for like $50 forever. The fixed visor is stupid and it feels too short as though its sitting on top of my head rather than over it, though I may have gotten a size too small.Also have an IXS trigger full face which is great, I'd probably just wear that all the time if I wasn't in a desert
>>194421>Are you still going to give that advice to anons who haven't consoomed this one specific productYeah, even the 'other dampers' have the trend.
>>194515I've gotten a couple of nice comments abouy it already. Quite light aswell, doesn't feel too big and heavy to move my head. Recommend it. My half shell is just a simple black Bell nomad that
>>194515TLD stage, Giro halfshell, Fox rampage pro carbon, looking to replace the TLD Stage at some point too with a similar enduro ventilated full face
>>194438I'm from cucknada and travel across the country fairly frequently to ride in more interesting places. Definitely worth it to travel if you have the misfortune of living in a flat hellhole>>194515For me it's a TLD D3 carbonium for park/dh and a Kali interceptor for the rest. I like how kali replaces the first helmet free if you crash it
why does picking a bike have to be expensive and confusing
>>194558you can always get something cheap used.I unironically went for whatever suspension design was cool, and with a frame in the right color.
great day of riding my fellas. I think I'll take off the Kryptotals soon and go back to the Michelin Wild AM and Force AM for the dry season. I'll also take the Michelin Wild Enduros off my Wreckoning and switch them to Assguy and Dicksucker, and take the kryptotals off my Arc to go back to the Wicked Wills. Then I'll regret switching out the tires 2 rides later when the trails get blown out>>194529I second the IXS Trigger FF. I don't live in a desert though. I mostly wear it when I ride trails where I think I could faceplant, such as steep, fast, chunky.
>>194572I should have also added that the Trigger FF is very breathable and lightweight. I have no problem wearing it on hot and humid days, but for me, hot is 80F-90F. If I know it'll be above 90F, I'll just ride much earlier to avoid the heat. It's good at keeping my face in the shade too.
How about something like this for an entry level bike? I just want to go on hiking trails for fun, not interesting in spending $2,000 on a bicycle for that
Fueling up on dominos right now, tomorrow morning gonna be explosive gains on the trails, miles after milesWhat do you guys fuel up with the night before a ride? My go-to is actually spaghetti not dominos
>>194578glorified Walmart bikes, you'd almost be better off putting a dropper and some other bits on an actual bike from Walmart for the same price. seriously just look for something used, maybe I'm just very charitable but I sold a 2019 full sus trail bike with modern geo, a dropper, all cleaned up with a fully serviced mid level rockshox fork, etc for 1k usd a bit ago
>>194583I don’t think you understand how bad a “Walmart bike” actually is, the Marlin is a perfectly fine bike despite the frame being outsourced to giant and some of the components being 2nd-standard and minimal quality, there’s not a lot of competition in the $600 price bracket and that’s about what you can expect from that range
Actually my dad bought a $300 bike from Costco a few years ago and I was pleasantly surprised to find it using “real” parts, a little research and I see the frame is also Giant-made so trustable at the very least https://www.costco.com/northrock-xc27-mountain-bike.product.100706259.htmlYou’d honestly be hard pressed to find a better bike for $300 (including whatever a used bike would need before riding it)Pic also related: a brand new $120 bike from Fred Meyer I found left in the woods for a year; trigger shifters, steel frame/fork, it’s what a $120 brand new mountain bike should look like imo
>>194580Dominos comes AFTER the ride, nothing beats picking up the pizza after some hard riding and devouring it in the park in less than a minutes when you are hungry. I just go with whatever breakfast I had but not pancakes or cornflakes as that gives me the shits.
>>194515I have a Speedframe half shell and a Proframe RS. I barely use the half shell, ever since my gravel bike tried to kill me on singletrack, and I had grabbed my full face out of convenience that day because I couldn't find the half shell. Unless I'm on flat roads or footpaths, it's full face all the time. I'm thinking about upgrading to a rampage for proper DH days, any other full DH spec helmet recommendations? It makes me question how good a helmet actually is seeing as it's a pass/fail requirement for downhill certification, rather than a sliding grade of how good it is at protecting you.Case in point, the Proframe RS is DH certified, but the Rampage is obviously a superior helmet, but no way of knowing how much better as a consumer. >>194580Normal dinner, meat, veggies, potatoes. Breakfast slides from bacon and eggs or toast or oats. Redbull and some fruit on the way to the park. Then chewing on gels and/or clif bar through the day. If it's a longer ride rather than shuttle bus abuse, I'll take electrolytes to drink on the way there and something like a Lucozade jammed into my backpack.
>>194578I think an anon in the last thread had one of the red and black Trek hardtails, he seemed pretty chuffed with it. The upgrade I'd make immediately is a dropper post. You'll ignore that advice, but the first ride you have descending and not being able to get your weight back away from the front and over the back of the bike because there's a seat in the way will change your mind. Get decent pedals too. Having your feet slip about is shit.
>>194558It’s a niche product that takes a lot of engineering. It’s like instruments. Why is a synthesizer $4k plus. It’s not because it’s costs that much to build. It’s the time spent engineering such a device and the fact they will sell less than 10000 of them.
>>194583These would actually go down a mountain without rattling all the pieces off.
>>194592Helmet manufacturers need to pay to get different levels of CSPC testing, and they’re all operating in the exact same way (lots of foam = squishable = protect). It’s not a pass/fail system of protection, the manufacturers just pay for pass/fail labeling
>>194638Sorry, CSPC is what determines if it’s legally a helmet or not, I think ASTM is the “downhill mountain biking” test g label
Conti have finally listened and are bringing out their trail casing tyres in soft compounds. Seems like a no brainer now to run them at least as a front tyre on a trail bike/hardtail. Hopefully this also means an that there will be enduro casing super soft compounds instead of being required to get a DH casing if you want the softest rubber.>>194275These honestly seem quite expensive for the components you get, maybe see if there is a sale anywhere for a last gen bike that is going cheap if you want a new bike and the warranty which would come with it. It is probably fine for your intended use but if you ever get any more serious then I feel like the bike will probably either have to be vastly upgraded or a new bike bought. Otherwise you could probably find one of those bikes for at least half the price on facebook marketplace or something very similar.
Pole bicycles went KAPUT! and sank >>194645It's highly probable that the CEO is a lurker and saw your post above asking for them
>>194423its job is to absorb energy. during compression it has to dissipate the unwanted velocity that keeps the wheel moving upwards past the bump. On the rebound its job is to absorb some of the spring forces to prevent it from going too fast.>>194515I have the specialized one because it scored good on the testing and had good reviews in every other aspect as well. full face I have a troy lee designs D3 because it is the best bang for the buck.>>194580the heavy greasy food comes after the ride, me and the guy that I go on long rides with we usually go either get some fast food and enjoy the greasiest most unhealthy food available. A particular favorite has been going to the dairy queen integrated into a gas station down the road from the trails. He gets the chicken tenders and sometimes an icecream, I always get a burger combo and icecream. Nothing beats having salty fries and sweet ice cream after a ride burning 3000+ caloriesBefore the ride, I like having a ton of carbs, so a giant plate of pasta, rice, and a good helping of desert. I avoid very spicy food before, like Thai food, Mapo Tofu, Posole (i like alot of chili oil)
>>194645>Hopefully this also means an that there will be enduro casing super soft compoundsAccording to a guy I was talking to the other day it does. Guess my 2 new enduro fronts are going straight into the pile. Anyone use krypt front or any assguy-like tire for that matter on the rear? Seems a bit draggy for normal pedaling and I'd rather dh casing on the eeb>>194656Bummer. I suppose I had a good instinct not to buy one but I still think the bikes are very cool. It'll probably still be a few years before anyone else has the balls to make a full 200mm dh ebike
>>194656It’s highly probable that they watched literally all of the new continental lineups where every single one mentioned how they’d love a supersoft enduro and continental has the $120 tires in the pipeline as we speak
>>194656>Pole bicycles went KAPUT! and sankDamn, too bad. They made some nice looking bikes and their manufacturing process was interesting.It's too bad Guerilla Gravity also went under. They used a new carbon fiber manufacturing process that was cheaper and stronger than the traditional manufacturing process, and it was cheaper to make and had less of an environmental impact. People are worried EVIL is going to go under too since they recently laid off a lot of people. I don't know why so many bike companies went full retard during COVID and thought the bike boom would last forever.
>$6000 complete, $6500 to get electronic shifting over gripshift>$3500 frame + shock + gearboxI DONT NEED IT
>>194694Go on, treat yourself bud. Your money isn't worth a thing until you spend it. Bonus is, you'll probably earn more money in the future too.
>>194704Could only imagine the shipping costs from New Zealand on top of that, would save a lot of money by not needing those bearing swaps I never do on my enduro bike too. Or I could also become gay and get an ebike for $6000, my friend would be a lot more willing to ride with me if he could borrow it while I huff and puff too
>>194694Spend even more money and get a swiss sexo machine.
Well I went out and I had an air leak on the rear over the week. I didn't carry a pump this time. I don't know how you niggas like low pressure, I felt held back on everything. Sure, a bit extra grip but fucking slow, 4 rim strikes where one was hard and the bike felt so sluggish. Low tire pressure is a cheap shortcut for shitty suspension set up. At least I got a pizza on the way back.
Gonna go visit my buddy in El Paso. I want to go mtn biking when I'm out there, and my buddy wants to come but he doesn't ride and was balking at the rental prices.So for shits and giggles I looked up cheap mtn bikes in his area (he's broke) and found this:https://elpaso. THE CRAIG OF LIST .org/bik/d/el-paso-giant-iguana/7730639355.html(replace the obvious part, the 4chan spam filter is killing me)thoughts? Looks like a reasonable vintage mtb to me. Should handle the green trails in his area. He's 6 foot so I assume large frame is fine.
>>194789>cool paintjob>rockshox suspension>v brakes>gears>knobby tiresgood enough to ride on. I started mtn biking in 2010 or so on a similar bike, just with nicer marzocchi forks and bontrager frame.
>>194789It looks alright but I have to say that a week of renting a modern hardtail taken care of by a bike shop sounds like a better value if you think your friend is at all liable to be interested in the sport. if not, may as well buy something that'll be there forever to fuck around on even if it sucks for actual mountain biking
>>194694Get it and let us know if gearbox MTBs are the future
First day back out on the Giga since the break leg crash in February. I think all that's still stock is the rear wheel and cranks. First impressions is>This thing fucking rips. Every dollar was worth it
>>194843The nukeproof name looks cool, put a red or while coil insetad of a black one. If there's a frame issue you can't do anything about it as nukeproof is no more right?
Went to the bike shop to get the derailleur set up for once cheaply, 12€, as I'm trying to save money. Spent 54€ total and came out with a new tire(DH22) they had on clearance....Also ordered new pads a few days ago bc apparently saint finned pads don't last more than 6 months. Along with 1 jersey, a shirt and a short ( all on clearance) bcLook goodFeel goodRide goodRide fast.Saved money on the long term but not on short term
rode some enduro trails with steep inclines and thiccq roots on downhill casings. Barely made it lads
got my shit rocked today and I ate shit twice, but nothing that'll require me to take time off from riding to recover.I told my friend I wanted to do an XC hardtail ride today, we ended up doing some intense downhill riding that one of my EVILs would have been better suited for. The good thing is that now I know where the fun secret trails are here.
How is something like this for a beginner, how big of a deal is the size Medium? I'm 6' 165lb is this likely to feel too cramped? Or can I go up and down a size without too much concern
>>194857Dunno, as of January they still replied to emails, and as the Nukeproof brand was absorbed in the CRC/Wiggle sale, it's not extinct, just inactive (hopefully). If I were to break the frame, it's insured anyway so I pay my excess and the frame is paid out at as-new value. >>194859I know this feel >>194909Trek site says you're on the border of medium/large in modern geo. A smaller bike will feel more maneuverable as you'll be able to move your body around the frame more, a larger bike will feel more stable at speed due to being slightly longer, at the cost of maneuverability. In the extremes, think of riding a child's bike at your size now, or your dad's bike when you were a kid. One is whippy, one is boaty.The best thing would be to go and actually have a sit on it, ride it around and see how it feels. If your knees feel too cramped pedalling while turning, you probably need a large. At the end of the day, if you buy it, $150 is pretty reasonable cost to write off investigating if you will enjoy something new. Remember to buy a good helmet, that's something you don't skimp on, and I'd recommend knee and arm pads.
>>194915yep $150 is a crazy price, most other similar Trek Marlin 5/6/7 or whatever are generally $300-500 locally. I'm a huge safety nerd I have a motorcycle where I always wear full gear no matter what, so when mbiking I'll for sure be the knee and arm pad guy
What do people think about gear? Presumably shoes of some sort matter due to the contact with pedals, but shorts/shirts basically whatever you want?
>>194920It's good to have moisture wicking clothing. I also recommend having zippered pockets so your stuff doesn't fly out. You don't have to spend a lot of money on MTB specific clothing but it really is better suited for riding since it has a lot of features you don't think about that make it easier to ride, such as more durable and breathable material, the crotch being higher so it doesn't get caught on your saddle when you dismount, the pants don't get caught in the chain, pockets seal so you don't lose your stuff, and they have adjustable waistbands. The pants and shorts I wear from DFYRS have microfiber in the pockets so it doesn't scratch phone screens and the cargo shorts have zippered vents for more airflow and they're made out of a ripstop material so they don't get destroyed in crashes.Some of my shirts have zippered pockets and I typically use them to store my keys or my wallet if the weight makes me shorts sag.I also recommend moisture wicking socks, they're just nicer since they don't get clogged with sweat.MTB specific shoes seem like a meme at first, I thought so too, but then I actually bought them and I noticed an instant improvement to pedalling and downhill performance, they also don't get destroyed by the pedals anywhere near as quickly as normal shoes do.Again, you don't need to spend a fortune on this stuff. There is a lot of expensive gear out there, but there are affordable pieces of gear and there are always sales and promo codes.
>>194920>>194921+1 to bike specific shorts/pants. I didn't think it mattered until the day the crotch of my shorts got caught on my seat while I was trying to get weight on the back wheel. I ended up tearing the shorts in the panic of avoiding OTB. I bought MTB shorts that afternoon. On the topic of shorts and zipper pockets, I usually slip the car key off the ring, lock the keyring of keys in the car, and then put the singular car key in a zippered pocket. Shoes matter less so, but as >>194921 said, they are specific to the sport. I found them to be extremely beneficial to climbing, having the more rigid platform as the sole to push against is a game changer for pedalling efficiency. MTB gloves are a pretty good idea too, as your hands get sweaty from riding, you'll start losing grip on the handlebars. Same for if it starts raining. Not a necessity but something to think about. Something majorly overlooked in terms of contact points is to get comfortable bar grips and saddle. It's worth it. >Tldr;Helmet and shorts/pants are the necessitiesSaddle and grips are important Pedals and shoes are close behindBreathable shirts, gloves, CamelBak, goggles/sunglasses, additional protections are preference.
>>194921>>194926ok thanks guys I have specific gear I use for hiking that will translate in terms of shirts and hydration pack, but zippered shorts gloves and basic set of shoes sounds like good ideas
>>194943And knee pads. Dunno where/how you ride but they are a necessity. Elbows is just an extra. If you fall and break your elbow/arm, you can leave your bike and walk down the trail and it'll be alright. If you break your knee, you're fucked. You can only hope someone is riding down the mountain. Also don't forget a small card with your information, medical issues, contacts etc incase you get knocked out and someone finds you. I have a card laminated with information paramedics will need(drug allergy and some other important stuff)
>>194920Level of protection depends on what kind of ride you are doing. XC/long distance riding on gravel paths/forest paths I'd just wear a half shell helmet, trail riding add knee pads and then anything else probably a full face and other optional protection e.g. elbow, chest. As for other clothing I think the main necessary thing is probably specific shorts/pants, any other clothing just doesnt really matter and hiking clothing will work fine. I used to use an old pair of vans as riding shoes on flats and they were plenty grippy enough however did get hot otherwise you can probably just use trainers or get some proper cycling shoes. I don't know if anyone else has the same issue as me, but I find cycling gloves to disintergrate very quickly and I always am ending up sewing seams which is annoying. I've had decathlon, enduras (complete shit), 100% and leatt in the past 8 years with the decathlon gloves surviving the longest but I ended up losing one. Also gloves without any plasticy kind of stickers on the palm are by far the best.
>>194920>>194943pro tip these specialized shoes have the grippiest soles you can get at 1/4 the price of any other decent mtb shoe. Clip version is good too. The sizing is fucked so try them out at a dealer which, fortunately, there are a lot of.Like other anons said, if you already have a pair of vans those will work just fine, they just don't have the level of protection you want for going fast into rocks
>>194920Required gear HelmetOptional gear but recommended, gloves, and shoes, making sure that your shorts have zippersdon't really need but is nice, mtb jerseys, and shorts
>>194960I just bought a pair of these at a local Incycle (Specialized) shop. seems like a great deal so far, I was gonna buy some Fox shoes at a Trek dealer but those were more than double the price for their entry level model and only went up from there. they def run small tho and I have big ass feet so they had to order a pair for me
Do you guys train like get /fit/ for riding or you're more of I'll get /fit/ by riding even though you ride like once perweek and chug a beer after the ride. Bought some weights as 4 months of not riding kills the gains
>>195160I do other sports that keep me aerobicly fit, so I'm good for a 20-30k ride. Still get get tired going dh because I don't get that exercise anywhere else.
>>195160>Do you guys train like get /fit/ for riding or you're more of I'll get /fit/ by ridingIt's a combination for me still even though I don't race anymore. In the winter I'll lift in my home gym, start doing intervals on the bike and circuits with a kettlebell in the spring, then just ride 2-3 times a week in the summer and fall. I just find being in good shape makes biking a lot more fun
>>194275I had a gen 1 and the forks blew up after two downhill runs.
>>195160I did a bunch of cardio on the stationary bike this winter and it helped a ton on the uphill.
>>195160I lift and ride every day, but I only recently started riding to add to my lift routineStill trying to figure out why my tubeless tyres are so squishy..
>>195160I havent been to the gym in a year or so but I'm gonna again start real soon. Its such a shitty feeling knowing I could probably be a pretty awesome DH rider right now if I actually had grip strength and wasnt such a fucking twink.
>>195180presumably twink build is optimal for dh performance given how Jackson Goldstone turned out after being engineered in the lab
>>195217Jackson Goldstone isn’t even that good he’s just young which makes him impressive and high-potential, he’s got nothing on the actual big riders who are older and don’t really have room to grow
Was trying to do a regular service on my lowers this evening and the damper-side bolt was just rotating in place. Spent 2hrs trying to get the bolt out using an impact driver, a heatgun, a blowtorch as well as a knife rammed underneath the flange to no success. This has all happened because the last time I serviced my forks the wave washer (?), which I had under that bolt had perished, so I just put the bolt back on without one. You live and you learn. I'm going to be hacksawing it off tomorrow, however I am already looking at buying a new fork.
>>195235>Jackson Goldstone isn’t even that good he’s just young which makes him impressive and high-potentialNot sucking him off but the kid got 2nd overall in the season in his first year in elite men while missing a race and having the appendix removed midseason. The only one to win first place more than once. It was last year in Andorra he got the fastest time overall if I'm not mistaken while being in junior. Take out the gay and retarded "semi-finals" point system and he's the overall winner. You gotta give credit where its due. This negro is will be on my fantasy team along with amaury pierron, he better not die as he just rides down without brakes>>195242What about drilling the bolt?
>>195266Rather not drill the bolt as theres probably a higher chance that I slip and end up fucking the lowers and hacksawing will give a longer bolt to hold onto in the plunger when removing it. Plus hacksawing will maybe take 5 minutes more so not really a reason not to. Either way I'm going to fuck up the bolt so would rather do it as controlled as possible to not ruin anything else.Also Goldstone isn't racing this year because of his hardline crash so there is zero point of having him on a fanatsy team this year.
>be Maxxis >Make 3 trillion different tyres in 4 billion different combinations of compound and casing>Consistently sell crap quality tyres with wobble, knobs tear off as soon as they are in the vicinity of dirt>Be Michelin >Make exactly 3 treads of DH tyre in one casing (two if you include the 34 bike park)>Provide quality productI've changed to DH22s, and they are spectacular. >Start looking for new tyres for my gravel bike >Michelin makes exactly 1 off road gravel tyre on two different widths >Top of the pile in reviews I'm not even surprised at this point. I don't think I'll ever buy a Maxxis tyre again.
>>195235the kid won two world cups and was fastest at Andorra. you don't do that with just luck the top world cup 10 pros rarely do that
Felt it today. Felt it so much I was pumping everything on the trail to get air miles. Jumped on one and both feet slipped, only my hands on the grip kept me on the bike. I now have 4 holes on my calf. High tire pressure, open rebound, almost closed LSC and 1 click HSC is king. >>195307Damn you are right, he is kill. I put amaurry pierronGoncalo BandeiraLuke Meier SmithNeko Mulally(This is the win) Ms. PIGGY HöllAnna NewkirkIf you go with the hacksaw way you'll still have a small "disc-flange" preventing you from removing it(if you cant cut under it). A drill shouldn't slip as you are drilling the hole where the hex key goes.
>>195311Based. I don't shill it for nothing. They are killing the DH34 tires infavour of the new DH16 which looks like a DHR2 or big betty. The casing got reworked and will be lighter. Like 1200g instead of the current 1500g. 4x 55 TPI to double 55/120. Dunno if it'll still be tough which is all I care about. The bastards also reduced the size of the DH22 knobs. The new wild enduros front look the same as a the DH22. And no more wire beadsI just need comically large sideknobs and a indestructible casing to prevent rim strikes, cuts, punctures. I hope protection/rigidity is either left alone or vastly improved and not jeopardized due to some humongous fags bitching about weight like they did fags bitching about drag with the knobs.
>>195347Shame about the death of the 34, I've got a set to try in the drier months. I hope I don't like them now. Weird as well, seeing as the 34 bike park seems to have a cult following, you'd think they'd keep it alive. But I guess the 16 will be good, I don't think Michelin is a brand that would downgrade a product substantially. >I just need comically large sideknobs and a indestructible casing to prevent rim strikes, cuts, punctures. I usually jam Cushcore into all my tyres, DH casing or not just for rim strike prevention, but I read an interview with the Michelin Man who stated that inserts are only to be used with tyres designed for them, and using them on inappropriate tyres is potentially detrimental. I've trusted that statement, and haven't been let down. >Engineer recommends product be used in certain way for best results, who knew. https://www.pinkbike.com/news/interview-talking-about-tires-with-bontrager-ethirteen-michelin-and-more.htmlNow they just need to make them more readily available so I don't have to fucking hunt them down for a reasonable price on the internet.
>>195217You don't understand anon. When I said twink I meant it kek.https://youtu.be/ev3tLL8NOjw?si=PavYhi0nGWAlUby4&t=145>5cm taller than him>5kg lessI guess it still beats being a fat fuck especially on climbs but holy shit it sucks so fucking much having nothing but skelly bones at a bike park.
>>195404>5'9">121 lbsHoly shit
>>195371>34 bike park seems to have a cult following, you'd think they'd keep it aliveThis is something I don't believe. It's ass for it's sole purpose, bike park. The casing is just too soft. Look how easily it folds, the sidewall collapses with just one finger doing pressure on the sideknob! You can't fold racingline tires like that at all, impossible. I took it off after the 5th ride. Several rim strikes on the by the 3rd ride and one probably caused the snake bite. I also had to use incredibly high pressure, it felt just aweful. I think that if you order them yurop it might be cheaper. Check Bikeinn, bike24, bike componenets,bike discount
>>195311The Michelin Power Gravel >>194332are good tires if you want to go fast without the trail getting too rough. They're like the Schwalbe G-Ones but with taller side knobs so they're still really fast on all surfaces, but they can handle cornering on singletrack better.I just put the Wild AM2 and Force AM2 on my trail bike and took the Wild Enduros off my enduro bike for the summer. I'm a big fan of Michelin tires, I have them on my car and I had them on my previous motorcycle and I'll likely replace the Pirelli Diablo Rosso 4 tires with the equivalent Michelin tire when they wear through.
How bad is it to get a medium sized bike when I'm 6' 170lb and I wear 32-34" jeans? Seems like only manlets are selling bikes, will a medium be too uncomfortable? Seems like I need a M/L or L
>>195574>How bad is it to get a medium sized bike when I'm 6'This is pretty subjective - different manufacturers will have different sizing, and you may prefer smaller or larger frames. The only real way to find out what would be best for you is to try different sizes yourself. You should see if there are any mtb events coming up near you soon. Usually bike brands will show up with demo fleets to let you try the bikes on nearby trails for free to get a feel for their handling/sizing.
>>195574Different people like different feelings out of their bike>t. 5'11 225lb SHMEDIUM enjoyer
>>195160>I'll get /fit/ by riding even though you ride like once perweek and chug a beer after the ridewhatever it's still better than nothing.Riding is for fun, I'm just vibing. I'm not going to treat it differently to get more fit or ride because I feel like I'm "supposed" to.
>>195160Ride to get /fit/ to ride more. I will hit the campus gym to go run a few miles and go lift occasionally. These past few weeks I've just been getting out 2-4 times a week about 2hrs at a time and getting better at jumping. I can almost land a jump into a manual now which feels super steezy. I also learned how to do a rear wheel hop backwards which felt surprisingly natural. I need to increase the amount of hops I can do.
>>195440>This is something I don't believe.I think the major driving factor behind it is that it's the cost getting you a good brand of tyre. I've never used them because I don't live near manicured bike parks, but a $60 tyre I can put Cushcore inside and shred the shit out of it for a weekend sounds like a decent plan to save my "good" tyres for downhill. But as I said, I've never used them, I've only heard people talking about them. Yea, I've found a national seller online for a reasonable price, and I don't mind bikeinn, but it's just that bikeinn takes a month to ship to Australia lmao. >>195561I was looking at the spread of tyres on bicyclerollingresistance.com, and the Michelins looked like they had good tread and puncture resistance. Have you got any recommendations for gravel bike single track tyres? The tracks I ride have a bit of rock jank. Schwalbe g-ones seem to get a really good review too, I used to have them but didn't really ride them too hard, I'd be looking at the Superground for sure if I went back to them. Currently on Maxxis ravagers, which was totally inappropriate for what I was doing anyway kek
>>193041Thoughts on yielding trail?Was on the technical trail in my local park during a busy day, and about half way through in the part you can’t slow down a group of about 15 kids and five adults were blocking the trail going uphill. I had music playing and wasn’t about to stop, pause my music, turn off noise cancellation, and get off my bike - so I slowly meandered past them while they moved out of the way and lifted the kids out of the way.Am I just an asshole or did these people learn a valuable lesson?
Fun day of riding, I ate shit last week because I was on my XC hardtail, but today I brought the enduro so I only had 2 very harmless slips.> running MaxxisI don't need my Wild Enduros for the dry season. The soil has hardened up so I don't need all that grip and the weight penalty right now.>>195667How wide can you go? If you're sticking with 35mm, I think the Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M are the toughest you can get and you can get them wider, their pavement performance is good too. If you can go wider, and you're really sticking with rough dirt, then I use a 650b wheelset with 55mm Vittoria Barzo tires on it. Those are a legit XC tire and they're really fast, even on pavement, the only caveat is that some reviews I've read claim that the tires can suddenly lose grip on wet pavement and rocks, but that hasn't been my experience riding down a wet road at high speed while being gentle on the brakes. If you don't need knobbies that tall, then consider the Mezcal, I've never ridden with them but a lot of my gravel cycling friends run them. I really liked the Kenda Flintridge Pro but I felt them slipping on a steep and loose climb that was freshly graded.>>195696Just play it safe, have a bell, and call out. Some people say uphill has the right of way because if they stop, it's harder for them to get moving than someone going downhill. I've seen others say that's wrong because it's harder and more dangerous for people going downhill to stop, so downhill has the right of way. What ever it is, it doesn't really matter because the other guy coming through might think they have the right of way so just communicate. For those big groups, just call out and hope they get out of the way. They're supposed to make room and try to get out of the way if they can, but it's easier for you to move than 15 of them.
>>195696What are you doing on a trail thats able to be walked by children, I’m pretty sure that’s called the parking lot
>>195701If 2.0”+ is an option, there no need to limit yourself to the meme tire of the month, if he’s riding XC-grade stuff then XC-grade tires are appropriate even on a gravel bike. XC tires also already have years and years of reliable reviews from beginners to professionals, and they go down to 50mm and are always in stock everywhere
>>195702A black diamond trail, just checked it on Trailforks. Those fuckers.
>>195703Agreed, that's why I got the Barzos. They won't turn a gravel bike into an XC bike, but they make it so much easier to get up and down trails
Just spend the extra $18 on good tires do you work at a bike shop or something this isn’t high finance, how much savings does it take for you to compromise something as important as tires? Bet you have no problems dropping $200 for some aluminum that doesn’t change anything about your bike, why skimp whatsoever on tires?
>>195710Meant for the “bike park” edition tire topic; as far as I know Michelin’s bike park edition solely exists to save money, not necessarily cater to firm-terrain DH-only applications. If there’s any kind of a performance loss in your tire, it’s not worth a $20 savings, just like hard compound is not worth a $80 savings from not wearing your tires down
>>195696I was always taught people going uphill yields to descenders, since it's much easier to stop while riding uphill.I think what you did was fine, just take it slow.The kids didn't learn anything unless they moved themselves out of the way.>>195703xc tires are crazy fast too.>>195710I like trying different tires on sale. it's fun that way and you can learn what part of the tire you like vs others.
Good entry level bike to see if this activity is for me?
>>195729The person going faster and who needs more time to stop must yield, since you are expected to remain in control at all times on the trail and you cant make people walking 2mph liable for a collision with a guy going 30mph on a multiuse path. Nobody gives a fuck what’s easier or who gains more happiness in their life with a yield maneuver it’s entirely legally-based
>>195730No don't buy it. It doesn't have disk brakes>>195696If I am passing hikers they yield, if I meet them head on and they don't get out of the trail at the mere sight of me. I yield to them.Also got a photo of me riding
>>195733>Photo
>>195733what the fuck is a disc brake and what are my options under at most $1000? I'd prefer under $500 to get started but I understand these things are fucking expensive
>>195732Just saying what I was taught, and if someone is crazy enough to be doing 30mph without seeing clear they signed up for it. What people should give a fuck about is crashing into people, thus it's easiest to slow down and deal with it from there.Fuck the law btw.
>>195734mirin the calves>>195735got a lot of learning to do.
So uhh I did a thing today after looking at some reviews and some basic research.... NBD... I havet ridden a mtb in ab 10 years and the last was garbage even back then... Been riding road bikes and cyclocross bikes for the last decade.Apparently this is an entry level/beginner trail bike according to the reviews I came across.Really hoping I didn't fuck up in buying this.
>>195737>>195733disc brakes looks good sub $600 basically a good deal?
>>195742>>195737>>195733available new any time looks like a good option?
>>195743Keep looking around but that will get the job done.
>>195696>Thoughts on yielding trail?People usually hear my hub buzzing from afar and get out of the way well before I'm near. Hikers usually move to the side to let bikers through on singletrack around here. As for up hill/downhill, it really depends on the trail. It's usually pretty easy to figure out on the fly.>Am I just an asshole or did these people learn a valuable lesson?Simply slowing down is enough, just don't blast by people unless it's obviously an mtb trail with features that are clearly not meant for foot traffic >>195734>PhotoBased. We need more riding photos. Picrel is a similar shot of me from about a year ago. I need to make a trip out to see if the trails here are good now>>195738You did good, anon. Even "entry level" bikes will be good for pretty much anything you want to ride these days>>195743Decent if you want to buy new. That will work well on any trails beginners would be interested in riding. If you know what to watch out for on a used bike, you could get something better. If you don't know anything about bikes, buying new is probably the best call.
>>195736You were taught wrong. Yielding is not about making anybody happy, it is necessary for legal liability. If your trail doesn’t have a yield diagram, the trail is one crash and civil lawsuit away from being shut down by the city
>>195734Turbo Levo?
>>195743Front derailleur and cable pull brakes are a weird choice, its not really any cheaper than an entry level shimano groupset with hydraulics and 1x10Just an idea but maybe try picking up a 90s/00s bike for no more than $100 off FB marketplace just to get out there and then if you like it, and then look for something in the $1000 range which at a minimum gets you a dropper, modern frame standards, trail bike geo, and potentially rear suspension
New fork came today ended up getting a 2021 lyrik ultimate for £280 which seemed like a steal, it feels infinitely better than my old pike. Tried to go about setting it up but it ended up raining quite hard before I could do much and I went home. The rockshox trailhead recommendations for pressure were so off, ended up going from 51psi (30% sag) recommended to ~65psi (~20% sag) with 1 token, however this might be because my shock pump is an old analogue rockshox pump which might be wildly inaccurate now. No idea where I'm going to end up with hsc and lsc but I will just have to spend a couple hours bracketing. Currently set at 1 click hsc, 4 clicks lsc, 12 clicks lsr. I might add another token and then drop 5-10psi but not sure yet as I'd rather try and fiddle with compression for a while to see if I can get the fork feeling good that way. It's quite hard to actually find any sort of baseline setup which I could start from so I'll just be messing about for a few rides before it feels properly good.
>>195743for 45$ more look at the Trail 7.1Same bike but you get a more modern 1x drivetrain and hydraulic disc brakes.
Just saw the pinkbike review of >>194694 and they it’s basically an extra $1000 USD in taxes+shipping to US, and that it’s really good
>>195834Lmk what your specs and bw are when you fihlgure it out. Have the same but have just left it.
>>195914Do you even english nigga?>>195834Run open Rebound, 25% sag, and be a LSCmaxxer. Due to it being new you probably have the C1 airspring. I think that one rides a bit more harsher than the B1 to fix the "10mm suckdown" the b1 had
>>195914I'm 60kg kitted, so once I do get the fork dialed unless you weigh the same then my settings will most likely be useless.>>195927It's actually a c3 airspring, which from what I can gather is just a c1 airspring but 'ebike compatible' whatever that means. It feels plenty plush anyway coming from my old pike which was about 8 years old on the original charger damper. I'll probably become more anal about it after spending some time adjusting to it and getting somewhere comfortable.
Maybe someone can help me here. Everytime I ride my stationary bike, because I want to loose weight, my dick goes numb. I think that's because I lean forward, can I just sit very straight and it won't happen or is it normal that it happens?
>>195973When you lean forward the pressure is between your balls and bunghole, there's a vein or some shit there that makes it go numb. If you sit straight then the pressure goes to the sitbones as it should be. Perhaps move the saddle forward?
>>195973look into getting a road bike seat that has that little hole in the center so you arent sitting directly on your taint... also practice standing sprints.check out this chick and do some youtube spin classes, get like a little phone mount or something on your bike too.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8DbpBXGAB8Q
>>195973Try angling the nose down. Do it in small increments at a time. Too much and you put too much weight on your hands. Too little and you get taint pain.Or get a seat with a hole in it.
