Welcome to /diy/, a place to:Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.Please keep in mind:- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.Helpful links:https://sites.google.com/site/diyelmo/ (archived)http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/
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Thread got out of sync:>>2957310>I'm new to electronics. Where to get started?It is an art/science of applying principles to requirements.Find problem, learn principles, design and verify solution, build, test, post results, repeat.Read the datasheet.>OP source:https://github.com/74HC14/ohmOPbake at page 10, post in old thread>Comprehensive list of electronics resources:https://github.com/kitspace/awesome-electronicsComment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Similarly cheap ratcheting style crimping tool. Notice the anvils being wider on one side, the dies are larger on that side too. This is where the insulation goes naturally.Not perfect but much much nicer already.
>>2966284>Test thatI'm trying to avoid opening it up until I'm sure it's not going to be easier to return it>Is the thing really on a 5V mains Adapter?12V. So not shorted to the barrel jack, really, but to the 5V on the output USB side>Does the hub power on if it's only on the PC but no power?Yeah, frustratingly.You might be right, it may well be easier to put together some Frankenstein cable. But I'm trying to stay as COTS possible with the hope of saving time and having something pretty in the end
>>2966284Update:Much hasn't changed since then. They still do not explain how VEAO ever goes above the non inverting input when V_Boost doesnt go negative.>>2966300>Opening itThat is not what I mean. With the hub powered and nothing connected, can you either measure 5V out at the port facing upstream or can youn plug anything in that gives an indication of 5V?>To the 5V on the output sideOkay so we're on the same page just that I suggested you can do it externally.>Frankenstein cableI'm kind of having a hard time telling you nothing can go wrong. USB is differential, so technically it does not matter where the reference voltage is.But ICs will only widthstand so and so much. Also the lines might be terminated other than series.It begs the question:Is there no voltage on the upstream chip because the designer expects the PC on a different reference potential and both sides are galvanically isolated? It would make sense in that case to simply power the upstream IC from the PC and not add a DC DC to the BOM.Can you please see if you have continuity from the upstream shield to the downstream shield?I believe if this is the case it should be safe to do this.
>>2966301Forgot: https://www.manuallib.com/download/pdf14/FAIRCHILD-FAN4800-COMBO-CONTROLLER-APPLICATIONS-MANUAL.PDF
>>2966168Do I put the cap before or after the volume pot.?]The circuit is very simple and it's exactly like pic related shows with the adition of a coupling cap in the non invertin input and a capacitor across the Vcc pin and the Ground pin. Simple, right? But where is the optimal place to put the cap? I'm not an electronic engineer dude. I'm a dog, do you feel me, bro? Anyway, thanks.>>2966190Don't you think simulating circuits are for pussies? I mean no offense, but in theory or in the simulation everything always seem nice and stuff, but then when you try the thing in real life shit just happens, you know? Murphy's law or something. I'm tired of simulations. That's why I did buy an oscilloscope. So I can do the shit in real life.
Generic 3-speed ceiling fan circa 80s or 90s makes buzzing noise at highest speed. I don't know what brand this is, I don't have a model number, but hopefully it's a similar enough widespread design.It makes excessive motor noise at the highest speed only. It sounds likely electric, like a buzzing, and it's definitely not the usual "motors just make noise" thing. It's something intrusively loud, and the noise seems to come and go some days, due to indeterminate factors.It's also not balanced, and is not grounded properly, but I don't know how likely that is to cause what I'm hearing.
>>2966105>are you at all technically inclined?Yes, but I don't have a multimeter that can test capacitance. I'll have to get one, I guess.
Depending on the noise, it could be a failed bearing.
>>2966103are the blades sagging from gravity pulling on them ?
sometimes the screws are loose and it makes that kind of noise
>>2966279A little bit.
Last Threads: https://warosu.org/diy/?task=search2&search_username=artbyrobotTo begin: the project goal: I am working to make a series of humanoid robots. I am using a Biblical theme of naming the first 3 robots I make Adam, Eve, and Abel. The goal is for these robots to have human body inspired musculoskeletal systems, advanced AI, and that they look human and pass for human to a casual observer at least at a distance. They must be able to walk, talk, run, dance, do sports, do chores, manufacture products, and make more robots just like themselves if not even better. My aim is to build a single robot arm and head and then add sufficiently advanced AI to that arm and head to enable it to build the rest of its own body for me. This way I am delegating the work of building the majority of my first humanoid robot to that robot rather than doing that work myself - and this is to save me time.In a like manner, my goal with the AI is to code just enough AI that the AI can begin coding itself and this way I don't have to code most of the AI myself because it will self create itself. I liken this to building a seed and that seed growing into a tree because for me to code that tree would take too long for me and just creating the seed would then save me time.
I don't anticipate these short wire braid runs to have much contact with anything as they are going to be making short runs from the motor to the water cooling pipe anyways and the exoskeleton mesh that holds up the rubber skin will create spacing and cushion contact bumping or w/e coming from the outside. All in all I think this is a safe solution for the most part and we'll have fuses anyways to prevent major problems in the low risk event of two neighboring live groups of solder wick braid breaking out of their window screen and contacting eachother thereby shorting the circuit. I just see this as highly unlikely but it's covered by the fuse in any case.That all having been said, the electrical isolation barrier stage we now can place at the location where these solder wick braid ends attach to the copper liquid cooling pipe. There at that attachment point I'll put my electrically isolating thermal tape between the solder wick braid and the pipe and clamp things down by tightly wrapping it in electrical tape at the connection point. This is trivial to achieve compared to doing this at the location of the mosfet drain. So we kicked the electrical isolation and clamping problem further downstream than the mosfet drain connection point in order to make the problem a piece of cake.Note: chatgpt said I should tin the braided copper solder wick to prevent oxidization of it which would potentially lower its emissivity. Not sure I agree on this though but I may do it just to be safe we'll see. I'd use MG Chemicals Liquid Tin to do this which I already have on hand for tinning circuit boards.
I did some research of some loose ends today on chatgpt and discovered that my .1mm x 4mm x 60mm sections of nickel strip on my bldc motor controllers that run from the battery to the motor controller mosfets and from the mosfets out to the motor are too high in resistance and at 30a they would within a few seconds get so hot that they would desolder my low temperature solder paste. So to solve this I will be placing two side by side solder wick braids hugging the underside of the nickel strips which will lower resistance so much that temperature will stop being an issue. They will be a combined .1mm x 4mm x 60mm. Then on future mosfets for this portion I will just use the solder wick braids for this section and not use nickel strips at all because they add too much resistance under this high of amp flow. The 2430 BLDC motors are rated to 25a continuous so my conduit has to also handle that easily without overheating.
Another really cool discovery I made today was on the topic of measuring current. I'd been putting this off till now but finally got around to deep diving it with chatgpt and discovered something shocking. So basically it was saying to use a shunt resistor inline with the ground side running from the motor controller to the battery. All the current of the motor controller (30a on the high end) will pass through this resistor as its only path. The special thing about a shunt resistor is that its resistance is so low that it doesn't affect voltage or amps a whole lot. I asked chatgpt if I can use nickel strips as my shunt resistor since a smd shunt resistor it said would overheat fast at 30a. It said yes! So I'll be using a .1mm x 4mm x 30mm section of nickel strip as part of my wire run going from the motor controller back to the battery on the ground side. This will act as my homemade shunt resistor. Now the way the arduino will read the amount of current is the analogue input pin will feed into the upstream side (closest to motor controller) of the shunt resistor section of nickel strip and the arduino ground will attach to the downstream side of this nickel strip shunt resistor. It will measure the tiny amount of voltage drop that occurs on account of the shunt resistor's resistance.
What is really cool is that the voltage drop changes at this resistance and amp level are read granularly enough by the Arduino analogue input pins that I don't even need to amplify them to read them in meaningfully. Some things like strain gauges provide such tiny resistance changes that you have to use a OP AMP amplifier to be able to read the changes in with your analogue input pin of your arduino to detect them meaningfully but in this case, the resistance changes are large enough and the analogue input pins are granular enough to be able to read them in without any amplification. This means reading in the current for my motor controllers requires ZERO components! It's literally just nickel strip which I already had for the battery tab making and some jumper wire or w/e to take in the readings and that's it! No parts to buy. I had bought some hall effect based current sensor kits and they are not needed at all. I wasted my money on them in the past because I did not know about this shunt resistor option at all at the time. Had I known I would have never bought hall effect based sensor kits - a waste of money. Not to mention they were relatively huge whereas this takes up like practically zero space to measure a shunt resistor section of conduit between the battery and motor controller. So it's awesome news!
Note: the current sensing is meant to tell my control system anytime a new unexpected load has hit the motor so it can slow down the flow rate of electric to the motor to prevent burning out something for example or it can also detect any kind of snags or w/e anything getting stuck. It can also help monitor amp flow for the sake of holding the motor in place with stall current kept low enough to prevent overheating etc. It can also act as collision detection if trying to monitor its interactions with its environment and know if something has hit something - which is insanely useful for situational awareness. So it's extremely useful and basically not even optional frankly. To now know that adding this feature is free and super easy to implement and will take up practically ZERO extra space is very exciting to me.Note: my diy shunt resistor (.1mm x 4mm x 30mm section of nickel strip) will have a .005 ohm resistance which is pretty much perfect for my use case it seems (unproven but chatgpt sounds sure of it). It will enable me to monitor the range of 5a to 30a and detect a change in amperage with like 1a granularity.
Last Thread: >>2959595Engineering filament edition>Your print failed? Go to:www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting>Calibrate your printer.ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.htmlIf that doesn't help you solve your problems, post:>A picture of the failed part>Printer make & model>Filament type/brand>Slicer & slicer settingsComment too long. Click here to view the full text.
wait, is pla toxic? I run my a1 in the living room
>>2966258>>2966258>It can be more likely to produce headaches, but that's not the same thing as toxicity.Resin isn't toxic but everyone develops resin allergies if they are stupid and expose themselves.>Lots of FDM stuff exceeds occupational exposure limits.[citation needed]
>>2966264yeah, bad news, you died.
>>2966265>[citation needed]>>2966258>https://youtu.be/nofn_MHrxrs [Embed]>>2966264Probably not a good idea to huff the hotend's fan output, but in a decent-sized room with decent air flow, it's probably not a significant health concern. See the video above.
never had a 3d printer, is this good to get started?anything else I should know? I'm interested in 3d printing as a hobby but I'm still not sure if I'll actually use it on the long term so I'd like to know from people who've been into this for a while
I want to build a small trampoline to help my grandma exercise her feet. I want the 'jumpy' part to be no more than 12×18 inches, that's how I would size it for myself and I've yet to measure her feet but the size isn't important what I want to know as a heavily medicated brainlet is what tools and materials I need and how do I work them and who else makes trampolines and whatever. This trampoline is not for jumping it's just for pushing your feet into while you sit, I think it would make her calves stronger. Also it has to be made out of wood I'm not a welder. Thanks.
start here
>>2965821>to help my grandmayou put granny on a trampoline you are going to help into intensive care then a wheel chair. All she needs to do is regular and front calf exercises and walking up and down the stairs. Take her to the beach or where there is some sand to air her out and get some practice walking on sand, but be with her to help keep her from falling.
>>2965864Thank you>>2965969This is giving me ideas, thank you.>>2966099You didn't read the full post lol. We're many miles from a beach and she doesn't have stairs in her apartment. Maybe in summer though, good idea.
>>2966123>she doesn't have stairs in her apartment.I know this sounds crazy, but take her somewhere where there are stairs, you know like the local mall where women love to walk and shop. Don't ignore the front and regular calf rasies - all you need is 2x4 to stand on with some shoes and a door way to hold for support. Feet, calves, legs are the foundation for stability. She can do partial squats holding on to door way for support. Go and do it with her, but the trampoline for an old person is certain disaster, espcially if she was not athletic as a young girl.
>>2965969cool, but how do they keep kids from turning into sling shots?
wtf happened to this site? no machinist thread???Ask machining questions, post machining failures.CAD CAM talkSpeeds and feeds guessingG-Code, M-Code, Bro-CodeFanuc vs HaasBitch about payIgnore SiegWhine about spline shaftsButton pushers who think they're machinists
>>2965958>3d plastic3d printed plastic. also ball bearing will be in the middle in case that matters
how do i solidcam?is that where you click on the surface of the 3d model and it makes the program for you?
>>2965958how does it go into athe ball bearing?can you draw it on paint so i can get a better picture in my mind?
>>2966196Gray line is aluminum rod. Red parts are 3d printed plastic that should be firmly secured into rod and blue circle is the bearing.The entire part will rotate but I want red plastic parts to have a secure grip so they don't slip off and change their relative angles. I ordered some elastic spring dowels and will give those a try. It should grip plastic hard enough. I will use a larger diameter bearing so it is not a tight fit there (use shims if needed) so the bearing doesn't explode from stress
are there lathe inserts with an inward curve shape? It seems like all the inserts are circles or rounded corners but I want something that can round a corner. It would save me time from grinding a piece of HSS manually
Been thinking of getting into these. Anyone try making them? What's your setup? Everyone I see online is using a particle accelerator but maybe with a high enough voltage a more normal circuit could work?
>>2966273Its more about just dealing with the fire instead of the combo of electricity + fire in the one location, which may save someone else just trying to unfuck the mess
The coroner's report will say you died by autoerotic electrocution, and it will list your penis as unremarkable.
I've tried it a couple times, using a small oil burner transformer instead of a microwave one so it was barely strong enough, but also significantly less likely to be fatal. If you're smart, you set everything up with the transformer unplugged, then plug it in while standing several feet away and stay there while it runs, and don't leave that spot unless you've unplugged it. If you're never within arm's reach of the thing while it's on it can't hurt you. If you must go near it, do everything with one hand held behind your back, like any high voltage work, so at least the current doesn't bridge across your heart. At the end of the day it's neat but still kinda pointless, why bother in the first place? I've got a couple bits of wood with neat patterns on them but nothing really to do with them, it looks tacky to put on anything and is too hard to control to use for any kind of design.
100% safe and effective.
>>2966272Thanks for the tips. I wouldn't use a microwave transformer for this. I was thinking one of those neon light transformers.>>2966282Cool video, thanks. I was thinking of making some cutting boards with designs from this. Seems like it would be cool.
I live in an apartment on the 2nd floor and whenever my neighbor runs their dryer, the exhaust from their dryer comes through my mine and floods my place with dryer sheet odor. Can I block off the pipe, or install an inline damper so no air will get through, or will that be a fire risk?
>>2966008this. they should not share a common vent. call the fire inspector.
>>2966008>>2966010>they should not be connected to a common pipei did look this up and I guess they can be. they just have to follow certain ruleshttps://codes.iccsafe.org/s/IMC2024V2.1/chapter-5-exhaust-systems/IMC2024V2.1-Ch05-Sec504.11
>>2966021see all those points about exhaust fans and makeup air? i can guarantee you that one of those isn't happening.
>>2965992There are airleaks in the firewall separating your units. Which means theirs probably rodents and mold as well. You shouldn't be smelling anything your neighbor is doing. Good luck getting your slumlord to do anything about it. best option is to move.
>>2965992I can't stand when normgroids use a ton of fragrance products in their laundry, just smothering themselves in phthalates because they think it's the only way to know laundry is clean.
I live in a Coleman camper like pic rel. I need to soundproof from a low pitch high volume noise. Would I install mass loaded vinyl in the outside and cover that with some material? What could I do?Unfortunately there are some budget concerns.
>>2965824Place it in the middle of nowhere where its nice and quiet.
Smoke meth before bedtimeYou can even make some and sell to fix your budget :D
>>2965824Guessing you don't want to rip out the interior? If you did that you could apply sound-deadener to inside of outer skin (Dynamat type) and add closed cell acoustic foam before panels go back up. You then need to deaden single-pane windows. You could make foam panels that sty on with velcro when needed. Of, you could move your trailer.
Are you unfamiliar with the noise insulation and vibration insulation of the car? Looks like a sheet of plasticine.
>OP builds a mobile rape dungeon
>shitty image taken from pinterest or some similar slop trough>one line retarded question with no relevance to anything>because not only does not everyone do that>nobody's making anybody do anything>meaning you can decorate your house any way you want and nobody can stop you
>>2966226>meaning you can decorate your house any way you want and nobody can stop you>he doesn't know about hoas
>>2966230so don't live in one. problem solved.
All downstream of turning housing from shelter into speculation. Everyone wants to flip their house for more than they paid, everyone want to profit off some sucker, so ease of reselling is paramount.My boomer boss was bragging about his equity in his two homes and how his tenants paid off his mortgage etc.
Sledgehammer thread. Has anyone used both Fiskars and Wilton sledges? How does the vibration reduction of the handles compare, are the wedge faces (whether on Fiskars or on the handful of other companies doing them) useful or a gimmick?
>>2966257Sweet, estwing. Would buy
>>2966261you can have it for free. its now out in the scrap tote where it belongs
>>2966262Hey I'll take it xD Even pay for shipping
>>29651018 pounder with the handle cut down
You want the handle short enough that you can easily start a stake but long enough that you can get a good rhythm going when swinging it hard.
Stupid questions that don't deserve their own thread. Last one hit bump limit
>>2966154Start by unplugging it and leaving it for 2-48 hours, to let it bleed off as much voltage as possible. The older/ more used a TV is, the longer it should be left cause it'll have worn out any bleeder resistors.Don't wear anything metal (conductive) or synthetic fabrics (static buildup), and especially NO GROUNDING STRAP.Seriously, grounding straps are stupidly deadly when working on CRTs because you do not want to be path of least resistance, let alone ground, for 10-20kV.Buy a CRT discharge tool. Alternatively Get a well-insulated cable with alligator clips and a flathead screwdriver with a metal shaft and an insulating handle. Put one alligator clip on the shaft of the screwdriver, this is now a CRT discharge tool.Remove the cover from the TVPut your non-dominant hand in your back pocket until further notice. Lowers chance of a shock running hand-hand through your heart.Attach the free alligator clip to tube ground, usually one of the screws holding the tube in place or the metal directly touching the screw will do.Pick up the screwdriver/discharge tool by the handle, and carefully slide the tip under the anode cap (rubbery nipple on the tube with a big, usually red, wire coming out of it) until it touches the anode itself.If you did everything correctly, and the capacitors had a charge, you'll hear a crackling sort of sound, this is the capacitors discharging.If no sound, make sure your discharge tool is touching the anode, jiggle as necessary. It may just be that the caps has lost their charge on their own.Hold it in position for a minute or two to be safe.Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>2966163thank you, cool filename btw.
>>2966146>>2966148Roger that, thanks.
I have a bosch router from 1996 that runs a fixed 25000 rpm. I'd like to try some router bits with lower minimum speed on some fairly hard wood. Is one of these external speed regulators going to mess up the router?
>>2966233>Is one of these external speed regulators going to mess up the router?No. Routers have 'universal' motors like older drills and such.That's what this type of controller is designed for.
Backpacker's Folding J-Pole editionhttps://www.bridgingagap.com/Emergency%20Preparedness/Emergency_Communications/Information_files/Backpackers%20j-pole.pdfPrevious: >>2952430>New to /ham/? Read this shit!http://www.arrl.org/what-is-ham-radiohttps://www.fcc.gov/wireless/bureau-divisions/mobility-division/amateur-radio-service>Your search engine of choice works well too!>The wiki is down but is archivedhttps://archive.is/PjR5s>NEW FAQ is updated to preview 15https://files.catbox.moe/aftx43.htmComment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>2965737If you use exactly a quarter wavelength of coax, the load on the ceiling beam goes to zero.
Anons i am an absolute idiot what do i buy to get into HAM? It seems really cool. Is it expensive?
>>2966134First read the FAQ and go through the library. Then you need to decide on what aspect of the hobby you will go for: tech, social/chatting over the airwaves, competition etc. And then get a rig based on your needs.You can get a single frequency Morse code rig for 3 dollars, it is hard to go cheaper than that. A good rig is about 1000 dollars.
>>2966134>Is it expensive?yes very.
>>2966134A common regret in ham radio is overspending. The hobby is interesting and fun, but its not worth spending too much money on. Only a select few actually enjoy their rigs enough to justify spending more than ~$1500.
I run a kerosene shop heater, I use it sparingly, and I keep having fuel go bad every couple years. I used to be able to get it at the pump until a year ago when they remodeled the gas station and pulled out the kerosene pump. Now I have to buy the $10 a gallon I'm thinking of going propane. I mean, propane doesn't go bad, but also can be used for different things year round. Kerosene goes bad like diesel and gas, and only used for 1 season. Red pill me on going with a propane heater instead of keeping Kerosene
>>2966219Just fired up a mulcher on 20 year old gas - doesn't mean the modern garbage is any good.
>>2966218Can't speak for kerosene, or shop heaters either, but my old oil furnace would run on diesel, but it didn't like it. Ran hotter and not as well in general.
Op here, So I just put a gal of diesel in my heater and it won't light
>>2966237YMMV
>>2966237start adding gasoline at a few tablespoons a time and trying until it fires. best to do outside because its gonna smokebomb before it lights
