Anonymous ## Mod
04/25/25(Fri)18:56:44 No.2912286

Anonymous ## Mod 04/25/25(Fri)18:56:44 No.2912286

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>>2980266
My temp range was probably fucked up because i saw this oven claim 300C for up to 99 days.
I didnt think dehydrators would get warm enough but il look into them. Really anything is better than some of these people suggesting lab equipment that use 1kWh

>>2980267
Some of these dehydrators go to like 175f or higher. At like 6-8 hours I dont think theres a single material that wont be at maybe 10% RH unless its just drenched. I was using one of those single spool creality dryers and it was a pain in the ass to set. The dehydrators have very easy to use buttons to set the time and temp. Easily do PETG and TPU, but havent had to mess with more exotic stuff so not sure.

>>2980265
Apparently air-friers with accurate and precise enough temperature setting are quite good for filament drying. Their strong airflow probably makes for more uniform heat distribution than a food dehydrator, those have been demonstrated to have quite a temperature difference between the layers.

I think ideally you have something that can rotate the spool while it dries, but that implies a vertical design. It’s also quite important to be able to extract the humidity from the drier as it’s driven out of the filament. Most machines do this by venting some of their air, but the more you vent the more power you need to pump into the chamber to keep it warm. Alternatively, you could use a desiccant to absorb this moisture, so long as the elevated temperatures don’t drive the moisture out of the desiccant. From what I’ve seen, silica gel and activated alumina will not work for this, but molecular sieves probably will. Alternatively, you could add a counter-flow heat-exchanger between the inlet and exhaust, such that it gets fresh air and exhaust without losing heat. I do not know if any drying solutions that do this, for filament or otherwise.

Any venting filament drier is fundamentally limited by the ambient absolute humidity. Drying nylon in a cool dry inland environment? Easy shit, the high delta T makes the relative humidity within the heated ambient air very low. Drying silk PLA in a humid and hot coastal tropical hell-hole? Good luck, the low delta T makes for a minimal reduction in relative humidity once the fresh air is heated. Your situation probably falls somewhere in the middle, but I’d be aiming for no greater than 10-15% relative humidity for the heated air. You can calculate this from a psychrometric chart from your initial humidity, initial temperature, and final temperature. Or with roflb.ch.
As an example, 55% humidity at 25C is 12.6g/m^3, which at 60C makes for about 10% humidity, which would be good for PETG drying.

>>2980265
Just get a sunlu whatever dryer. make sure it reaches the temps you need.
fucking around with dehydrators microwaves and air fryers is no longer worth it. a lot of dryers are good and cheap now.

>>2980270
Nylons can need hotter, see:
https://youtu.be/y3rMgwOCAi8?si=68i3hZtPZZwdBoVA

I’m not sure how the relative humidity of the air interacts with the relative humidity of the filament. The nylon being tested was up at 10% moisture by weight after being fully soaked, so I guess there’s a factor of ten or so. That means with nylon you’re aiming for 2%RH to get the filament the desired 0.2% moisture by weight. At 70C that means an ambient humidity at 25C of 17%, which is pretty hard to hit without living in Arizona, or somewhere damn cold. Up at 95C it’s 44% at 25C, which is pretty doable if you pick a good day.

>>2980272
Eh, I wouldn’t recommend the filament driers without a fan for forced airflow, like the Sunlu S1/S2. At least not if they’re anything like the Esun eBOX Lite. DC powered ones like this also often lack heating power, and so only vent from a tiny hole so the temperature doesn’t drop, often resulting in internal condensation imyig inadequate ventilation. The AC-powered forced-air driers like the Creality Space Pi are good, at least up to 70C. Some still have small vents, but at least you can enlarge them and the heater will be able to handle it. Either way you can add some foam insulation to the outside of the drier to reduce the load the heater is under, and to improve the heating uniformity.

What are the best products available in the US for committing arthropod genocide? I don't want to spend a ton of money and I'd prefer something that doesn't need to be reapplied often. I specifically hate fire ants and wasps, but ideally nothing other than mammals and plants should be able to survive in my yard.

>>2980249
Get black ants, hope they out compete the red. .

Ants aren't bad. They aerate the soil, clean up other bugs, etc, provide food for other critters like opossums.

>>2980251
When a fire ant stings me, I develop a large itchy lump that doesn't go away for at least a week. Since they usually end up stinging the foot or ankle, wearing shoes becomes godawful irritating because of the constant rubbing.

I don't need my soil aerated, I need to be able to walk around outside without some inferior lifeform fucking me over.

>>2980167
>>2980178
>>2980184
>>2980211
>>2980108
I think I'm going to try it on smaller electronics first, like my genesis controller cable or something until I get more experience instead of working on the tv T-Con. thank you, guys

>>2980253
You end up with fire ants when the black ants are killed off. That's why you keep the black ones. Ants are pretty unstoppable. You're going to have one or the other.

>>2980213
>>2980219

Right like, what's so hard to understand about this? It's not always noon on a weekday when you need a part.

>>2980063
That screw kit, specifically, is possibly the worst thing I've ever bought from Harbor Freight. They flat-out won't penetrate anything thicker than aluminum foil. The heads are formed wrong, so the driver wobbles and slips no matter what you do. They tend to strip when being driven into hard wood. My only solace is that the empty box is at least useful.

Some of the assortments are good (I've gotten decent use out of the snap ring and clevis pin sets), but not that one.

>>2980219
The OP specified "without spending too much money", which implies buying in bulk. Per-unit cost on small fasteners in small quantities is ridiculous, but buying 100pc+ of every size of screw you think you MIGHT use is going to cost an amount that most would consider "too much money". Never even mind different materials and head styles.

Figure out what you actually use regularly, buy a bunch of those. Buy a bulk bag of everything you find yourself in need of after that. It's been a very long time since I didn't have some usable piece of hardware on hand by doing this. Most of the times I'm caught lacking, it's either some specialty thing or odd (usually large) size that I could never justify buying and storing an entire box/bag of.

>>2980228
Shit always breaks when nothing is open. When did my water pressure tank fuck off? Middle of the week in summer? No, on Christmas Eve.

Always keep an oh shit kit around with a variety of fixes, even if they are temporary.

>>2980063
other than the first comment which mentioned estate sales you can skip the middleman and just get an assortment from aliexpress for a quarter of what they charge at harbor freight for the same chinesium

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>>2980238
>>>2980219 (You)
>The OP specified "without spending too much money", which implies buying in bulk. Per-unit cost on small fasteners in small quantities is ridiculous, but buying 100pc+ of every size of screw you think you MIGHT use is going to cost an amount that most would consider "too much money". Never even mind different materials and head styles.

All this stuff could be had for less than $300. That is absolute chump change. Some things might not be useful for everyone. Does OP need internal and external snap rings? Fuck if I know, but I need them. Does he need standard and metric grease zerks? No fucking clue. Would I buy the wire nuts from Harbor Freight? Probably not, because I can get a bulk pack from Homo-depot in the few sizes that are actually useful to me. Would I trust HF worm gear hose clamps? Probably not, and I already have an entire assload of them in every size imaginable to mankind.

Use your head OP and buy what you actually need to stock up on to repair the kinds of things you work on. Check the stuff out in the store and fingerfuck it some to see if it is good enough quality for you to want to use.

sorry for the blog posts.
now the mic seems to work suddenly.
i can hear myself without crackle on my handheld. seems like its sensitive again but only on ssb! on am and fm its quiet so the radio itself is definitely the culprit.

i suspect this radio has been unused for many years. i dont know how careful the guy who sold me it was. the lot was a bit dirty. there was a president grant and two president valery + 2 mics.
also, the grant's signal meter is dead but the one on the valery looks identical so maybe i can put it on the grant.

>>2975016
I would want to double check the schematic, but my thought is that if you're TX'ing out of band, the harmonic filter will end up killing your fundamental.
Also the input/output matches are designed for those specific bands. Being off in frequency will make high SWR between the PA and harmonic filter and similar between the driver and PA.

if i had a dog, i'd let it speak on the radio from time to time.

i discovered something weird when keying up the mic.
those problems with insensitive mic are partly resolved by holding the spiral cord of the mic in the other hand. it somehow makes it sensitive and "opens" it. making it behave like a normal mic.
also the cord is very sensitive to rfi for example i had my phone in the pocket and if the mic was too close to it, it would start to hum.
the radio is grounded and the antenna is dc grounded.

if i don't hold the cord in my other hand, it is basically as good as deaf.
it also "opens" up when its close to my head.
what the hecking heck is it doing? anyone has any ideas?

>>2980199
Yeah that seems to reflect what that youtube guy found. Harmonics that were louder than the fundamental. Be nice if there was an alternative with a linear amplifier instead, less efficient but much more wide-band. The ASIC in those quansheng radios are capable of a really wide range of frequencies, though only for FM.

>>2976893
To paraphrase my shop teacher, who could never get the retards to wear those big dorky wraparound safety specs from yesteryear:

>you'll never get your dick sucked wearing those, but you're not getting it sucked in an eye patch, either. At least you only have to wear the goggles in here where there are no girls anyway.

calling ear plugs earpro is gayest of all, op

>>2980173
>you'll never get your dick sucked wearing those
kek I'm not even so sure about that, there are a couple of girls at my shop who'd probably be down if I felt like trying and they've just about only ever seen me in dorky safety glasses

>>2976893
imagine having such a fragile ego and psyche that you are threatened by basic safety equipment. I smell a closet gay.

>>2980222
Imagine being such an idiot you cannot realize when a poster is purposefully being ironic for satire.
I smell a low IQ.

cooking the bones makes carbon black a concrete die or paint pigment

i think the beak is cartilage or keratin so might be a protein powder supplement, grind and eat
>>2979949
eyes are tough not sure what to do with those

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>>2980040

>>2979935
>What can I make with it?
chicken soup

>>2980098
BASED
thank you kind anon

>>2980221
it's about to fall off page 10, what are you doing? you gonna bump the foot thread too?

>>2980214
Because you live in a city.

>>2980214
Who says it is?

>>2980232
saved it just in time.

>>2980214
City zoning ordinances were meant to keep niggers and trash out.

>>2969431
>Want to make walking, talking robots
Nice
>To mimic humans
You fucked up by saying that. That can be your secret goal, but your STATED goal should be to make furry/kemono girlfriends/sexbots. The furries are a bane on humanity, but credit where it is due, they put money down on their freakshit at insane levels compared to many other independent investors.

>>2979780
where spinning motor

>>2979780
is this "diy web browser" webkit or servo based?

>>2979810
Neither — I'm writing my own minimal browser implementation from scratch.

>>2979165
What did I (>>2979299) tell you?
In this one (>>2979780) we sees he's been working on some other dumb side project, but probably no one cared because AI is oversaturated with hype men and retards and a custom browser is pie in the sky too but not as flashy as a robot, so now he's back here to get more attention, despite not having done anything. He's so predictable it's insane.

>>2975115
>it's free!
but there is no reason I would ever do that.

oh now fester we can't have your thread die now? can we.

don't die little thread.

>>2979960
Yeah I know, I held off replying for a while because of it, but it was annoying me

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Has anybody made a suppressor? What did you have to submit for the NFA form 1 regarding the design? Did you find plans somewhere online and submit that?

>>2980052
You can get one of those oil can apters or maglight conversion kits, they're both cannhave the nut that screws onto the gun registered then the rest of the kit is replaceable parts.

>>2980056
I want to make one on the lathe im really wanting to know more about the nfa process and was wondering if anybody here had made one for personal use

>>2980052
3D printed one, .22LR. Works really well.

>>2980239
turn on vsync next time

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>nice day
>take my cars out
>ton of parts break

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>>2977564
>it's arriving today

>>2976435
Eat shit. Hobbyists made this work, and slavs all went to fight in an endless Jewish war with our project.

>>2976836
Damn, those 2-3 inchers look like fun! Good set overall!

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Found the dji goggles for $300 in Japan. Snagged firefly18 for msrp somehow.

How can anyone compete with this quality? This is a fucking o4 lite, this is ridiculous.

I'll give it to you straight: we've been trying to work this out for the past 40 years. There still isn't a good solution. The in-tank chemicals are some of the closest that there is when it comes to extending time to between cleaning, but ultimately there is no replacement for physical displacement. Eventually, the chemicals will run out, bacteria will build resistance to chemical attacks enough to grow where concentrations are lower, and once the bacteria establishes a layer of biofilm on the surface it's just a matter of time for it to spread. The biofilm creates a protective layer where the bacteria underneath can continue to spread. Even if you kill the surface, the carcasses of the film still create a layer protecting the bacteria underneath, so higher chemical concentrations aren't the solution here. Different chemicals can remove this film but are also so incredibly bad for the environment that you would be fined for flushing them down the drain should the authorities find out.

Next, consider where the filth is. Hydrophobic surface coatings can help reduce skid marks and the like underneath the water, but anything that dries above the water line becomes difficult to remove. Splashing piss will never have a good solution with conventional bowl shapes and flushing methods (spoiler: those are also unlikely to change anytime soon due to codes and standards regulating them). Hard water will also negatively impact cleanliness. Do NOT use pumice to remove hard water stains; this will damage the enamel and lead to faster bacteria buildup since you create thousands of little cracks that bacteria can hide in. Turn supply stop off, flush, then use chemicals to dissolve away the hard water. And sit down to piss, you'll get less splashing, extending time between cleaning.

Also if you don't have a bidet why are you worried about your toilet when you're walking around with shit smeared all over your ass.

t. toilet engineer at one of the big four plumbing manufacturers.

>>2977974
They bleach the shit out of everything according to what I've read, which is the pain in the ass part. But yeah, they won't wipe up for you.

>>2980126
I hate the laws so much. Fucking retards are just like 'those old guys were just being wasteful we can use less water with modern science!!'


No now it just sucks

>>2977903
I used to work as a butcher in a factory and the entire workplace was washed using a pressure washer. Everything mechanical was waterproof, there were drains in the floor every couple meters and the walls were covered in some vinyl sheeting. The pressure water would first shoot a foaming detergent/sanitizer that we'd have to leave for 10 mins or so, and then we'd rinse everything down with hot water, use a big squeegee broom to push water to the drains and the ventilation system would get rid of any residual humidity.

I've always fantasized about implementing something similar for a kitchen or bathroom. Just a minimalistic space with stainless steel or porcelain furniture that you could just blast with a pressure washer to sanitize and clean.

>>2980226
it's been like this in basically every factory i've ever worked, drains sprinkled everywhere, pressure wash the walls / ceiling.

>>2979310
Hexagon crimpers are hit or miss and you need a lot of different size dies to find the right one. Lug wall thickness, cheap wire not being what it says and even small differences between awg vs mm^2 wires and dies can ruin your crimps. Its easier to get cold welds with indent style of crimpers but they do alter the lug shape a little bit and can cause problems with some connector housings.

Cam Locks. I've wired ones that go up to 800 amps (in parallel)

>>2978269
>Anderson connectors are close what i want but a lot of people seems to dislike them because wire twist can misalign the pins and cause heat/meltdown.
Anderson connectors are probably what you want unless you just don't want a connector. "High movement" sounds like maybe a connector is a bad idea. I mean, it doesn't get cheaper or more reliable than lugs torqued down onto screw terminals properly, but a wingnut sounds like a horror if you're worried about loss of contact.

It's a monstrous connector and kind of a waste, but another option might be a 7-blade trailer connector and more than one pair of wires. By spec, the return pin is rated for 40A and the others for 20A, and I *think* Pollak rates all the pins in theirs for 40A.

>>2978269
What did Big Crimp do to you? Not a myth at all and it's easy to verify in practice unless you have never in your life seen a correct crimp. And you certainly have: crimps are the reason factory cables outlast your shitty home-soldered ones. But you don't have to listen, just keep mashing things with your old pliers and soddddering them, and keep busy repairing all your broken shit.

>>2978272
>>2978271
XT60, XT90, Deans - I just don't trust them. The XT series especially, because bullets. If you're solidly in the hobby ecosystems they come from sure. If you're not and it matters, look at what connector companies offer.

>>2978271
>Look into Dinse connectors for welding leads. Way too big for your 10awg wire, but maybe they make something smaller?

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.

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>>2980154
> especially, because bullets
bullets are top of the line, milspec shit man.
All we ever needed was the D Sub connector.

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>>2980158
Kek. Maybe in the 30's. High end machined-pin connectors (pic rel) are a thing of beauty though.