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This is a general for everything 3D printed relating to /tg/ from sci-fi, fantasy, historicals, fantasy football, and more! Share your printed minis, terrain, print fails, 3d modeling, printing advice, works in progress, or anything else /tg/-related to 3D printing.

>DO:
- Post pics of your prints be they fails or triumphs
- Keep your prints about tabletop games only
- Post your resin/printer/settings for faster advice

>TRY TO:
- Not make a new thread until old one dies
- Not encourage namefags, tripfags, fumefags and coomers
- Not spoonfeed newfags
- Keep your model pics naked (no paint/undercoat only)
- Look after small artists/studios
- Buy something from or tip an artist/studio you like
- Read the last 3 threads before posting

>FAQ (If you only read one thing in the OP make it this)
https://pastebin.com/raw/Lv0vvd7d

>Resources (last updated 05 NOV 21)
https://pastebin.com/raw/hmSJixAy

>Guides
FDM Troubleshooter: https://pastebin.com/raw/H1en2ghM
Resin Troubleshooter: https://pastebin.com/raw/SbYWdMnC
Resin Safety: https://radtech.org/safe-handling-of-3d-printing-resins/
Printer Buying: https://pastebin.com/raw/1Kfib5YK

https://youtu.be/roAqm5c3rfU
https://youtu.be/koMNXvSlpSs
https://youtu.be/cjDpmh2NQMU
https://youtu.be/xS7h_5di3Tc
https://youtu.be/GL-9Ia0SibQ
https://youtu.be/xw_ClxnJ1_U
https://youtu.be/ZXJQ5vQG0ZA
https://youtu.be/bWUfshO17b8
https://youtu.be/cGAgyRVK32g
https://youtu.be/YMO4Va2vT3Q

>Last Thread: >>92485400
>>
>>92577766
I just realized I picked the same guy who was in the last OP. And it seems like I jumped the gun on the new thread as the old one still exists on page 11. Teach me to use a public computer to make the thread I guess.
>>
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Hello, is the Anycubic Photon Mono X 6ks good enough for printing wargaming minis and how do wash&cure stations work, do you just put the print in and it washes it, dries itself then starts then UV curing all by itself?
>>
>>92578756

just about any resin printer is good enough for most wargames. consider the max volume of the printer vs how large your tanks and stuff will be. more volume on the plate means you don't have to break everything up into multiple parts and more individual guys that you can print at one time.

technically you don't need to buy an entire wash and cure station if price is a concern. I've got two big Mason jars that I use to rinse. one that I allow to get absolutely filthy and the second that I keep relatively clean. in #1 and swish a bit, in #2 and swish more. let air dry then I have a uv turntable that I got for like 20 bucks that finishes the cureing. my results may not be perfect but they work fine for me. Welcome aboard.
>>
>>92578856
Thanks, would the wash&cure literally do everything for me though? Cause then it might be worth the 80 bucks honestly.
Build volume is 195.84x122.4x200mm so it's pretty big I think.
34.4 microns and 6k, is that good enough?
>>
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And it is done, yes I know the pose isn't great, generic running, and the leg is clipping and I have to make the 2nd head too, just the hair really.
>>
>>92579367
>face doesn't look like someone lit it on fire then put it out with a snow shovel
ngmi
>>
>>92579367
>yes I know the pose isn't great, generic running,

Ngl, the pose is horrible, and running does not look like that AT ALL.
>>
I've only resin printed infantry-sized models and I think they come out well. For larger stuff like tanks and monsters, I'm worried that having big empty hulls could be risky because of a lot of unexposed resin inside. I've had a smaller hollow model degrade on me over time because of that. How do you handle this? Put holes at the bottom? Absolutely soak the insides when cleaning? Print big solids, would a FDM be better suited?
>>
>>92579367
I hate this. You made this just to make me mad specifically.
>>
>>92578929
They don't really do anything "by themselves"; they have a bucket for cleaning and a UV unit for curing. You load the bucket with cleaning solution & uncured prints; a little agitator at the bottom of the bucket automatically stirs the solution for a few minutes. You then unload the cleaned prints, dry them, then load them back into the cure station's carousel to cure for a few more minutes. It's the same grunt work, just gives you one machine to do it all with.
>>
>>92579367
You gave it the face of a child from a calarts show
>>
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2nd pose
>>92581644
it was either that or Felinids.
>>92581977
Yes, the face looks weird, I used an old sculpt as base and I ended with that.
>>
How real are this comparisons?
Or is just fake?
>>
>>92582440
the upper torso looks wrong. look at the 4th pic, it cant be that straight if she is running
>>
>>92582440
>>92579367
I hate it
>>
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>>92579367
From a technical pov you obviously know what you are doing, but your choice of subject has let you down. You've taken a oldhammer sculpt and removed its soul. It comes across you are bandwaggoning the push to shit on 40 years of established lore to meet some edi target no one but the people loaning money to games workshop are asking for. If you did it to trigger grognards then congrats mission accomplished, but you've given about half a dozen of them ammo to show why 40k is been fucked and continues to be fucked and for that you need to step under a bus.
>>
>>92582548
I fixed that and a couple of things more, ty.
>>92582817
I know it.
>>
>>92581906
Oh wow, I thought it would at least have a built in dryer...
I'll get one still cause having to manually turn the model would be annoying and the wash&cure at least has a spinning plate.
>>
>>92584211
you can get a turntable that is powered by uv light for next to nothing
>>
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Ive got a Mars 1 Pro from back in 2020 is it actually worth upgrading to something newer?? My prints seem to come out great with minimal printing lines but will I see a noticeable change pic related my last two prints I painted up
>>
>>92585151
just buy a mono screen upgrade for it if you are happy with the quality.
>>
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>>92585151
It depends which part of the process is the hobby for you; If you're happy with the print quality and painting minis is your hobby why bother upgrading? If 3D printing IS the hobby for you, then yeah... Upgrade.
Those sculpts came out beautifully, and the paintjob is really good!

>picrel link to model https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/modern-us-operative/makes
>>
first time using lychee.
when configuring the Resin parameters, why the lift distance speed and retract have 2 values?
what is the number on the left? is the one on the right just the normal mm/s?
>>
Can anyone recommend a good 3d printing service in the US? I can scrounge for files, but can't find a decent place to get them printed. Help!!
>>
>>92586608
i can recommend you fuck off faggot. we print our own shit here.
>>
>>92586608
I don't know if its true near you, but I know that in some places there are public libraries or 'maker spaces' with 3d printers that are either public access or pay to use. I think you'd still have to actually do the printing yourself, but they'd have the machine for you and probably all of the supplies you'd need.
>>
>>92581514
Seconding this. No issue in leaving human-sized miniatures as they are without hollowing, but anything larger always seems like a gamble between wasting a ton of resin that might end up caught uncured in the middle and explode the model, and hollowing it wrong and exploding it anyway
>>
>>92585864
The liftspeed you set there is used in relation to how massive the layer is. Layers with almost nothing on it will lift at the fastest setting, tough layers will lift slowly to lower chances of delamination.

>>92586608
I would look under craigslist or something similar, plenty of enthusiasts that want to make a buck and are way cheaper than shapeways.

>>92581514
You can get away with one hole, but I want at least 2, big enough that I can flush it out with a syringe without needle. Also fill it halfway with fresh alcohol and shake it.
But I only hollow big stuff like heads for busts, anything smaller is a waste since the increased surface area will have more liquid resin on it that will dirty up more alcohol, and at a certain point it stops to make financial sense.
>>
Anyone have any experience with the photon mono 2? Good enough as a first printer mainly for printing several D&D/Warhammer minis up to 100x100mm? Will the minis come out nice and smooth or are they bumpy and low res? Should I shill out more to get an X or Saturn?
Feel free to reccomend some cheaper but still okay printers too. Thanks.
>>
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>>92585151
>>92585630
>Painted models REEEEEEEEEEEE
>>
>>92589304
its 4chan dude, there is no escaping edgy autists who need the attention
>>
>>92585151
The biggest upgrade will be faster printing times and bigger print bed.
Quality of newer printers is better in general too of course, but you can influence it with your settings a lot, so there is probably someone out there printing worse looking minis on his Mars 3 Pro than you on your Mars 1. But he will print them a lot faster, and more at the same time.

I'd wait for one of those sales, and see whats available.
>>
>>92588775
>Good enough as a first printer mainly for printing several D&D/Warhammer minis up to 100x100mm?

Yes.

>Will the minis come out nice and smooth or are they bumpy and low res?

Depends on your files and settings

>Should I shill out more to get an X or Saturn?

You pay more for a bigger printbed. for regular 28mm minis, a regular sized printer is more than enough.

>some cheaper but still okay printers too

Mars 3 Pro, but no idea about the price these days.
>>
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>>92588775
I got the Photon mono 2 as my first printer. and Im still new, maybe just have like 6 months doing this.
It can get small enough details on stuff, and they look fine.
granted, with pieces that have thin swords, ears and layers, may bet some errors
Granted, if you want to print SEVERAL figures, the platform is not that huge, so you may run out of space faster than you think. but dont know if that X or Saturn is much bigger either.
>>
>>92590626
so you do you print anything for gaming or just the novelty buttplugs you have in that pic?
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>>92590683
For now I mostly print proxies and terrain pieces. because the store I go they play heroclix, and they would want tokens, like archers, this peacemaker helment, some times walls.
Buttplugs out of ressin seems to be risky and toxic, So probably not a safe market.
>>
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>>92590626
Where did that Morrigan come from?
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>>92592635
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-morrigan-darkstalkers-30cm-model-printed-obsession-124700
the model is big, but Had no issues downslaling it
>>
>>92590606
>You pay more for a bigger printbed. for regular 28mm minis, a regular sized printer is more than enough.
I'm planning on printing quite a few larger minis like 40x40 and 60x100 as well.
>Mars 3 Pro, but no idea about the price these days.
A mars 3 costs about the same a the photon 2 and a wash&cure packaged together.
>>92590626
Seems like the smaller details come through well and I'm pretty sure that thin swords etc. is more to do with resim quality then the printer no?
>>
>>92593119
I guess, also stuff in white also were my early test, where I would over expose them during pritning and curing.
It really can print really small details, is just that for my experience, really thin stuff will get stuck on the supports, or breack if you are not really careful.
>>
>>92593119
>is more to do with resim quality then the printer no?

Even the most basic and old Photon can print very thin details. Its all in the settings. And if you intend to print spears, thin swords and stuff like that, its indeed the resin that helps to make those things survive.
>>
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>>92589304
>>92589714
What's wrong with painted minis?
Anyways, if you want grey prints here
>>
>>92594175
This is a general about printing not painting. People can post painted minis in so many other generals. Posting a follow up paint job to prints you posted before is perfectly fine. There is a small band of autists who want to make this place a defacto /wip/ for some reason, probably because the paint jobs are so bad they would be embarrassed to show them in the those places.
>>
>>92593475
What's the safest bet when it comes to resin? Is the Anycubic standard they include good? I read that for minis it's either Sunlu ABS-like or any brand flexible resin.
>>
>>92594339
Your opinion would make sense if there was a snowball's chance in hell of anything getting crowded out by images of painted 3D prints, but there's not, so you're just a schizophrenic retard who appointed himself official thread janny
>>
>>92597529
Feel free to take your buzzwords and fuck off back to plebbit at anytime.
>>
>Inb4 "Prime Beef, Janitor"
I've barked up every tree I can think of, and the few magnets I've found are nuked. I've seen all the megas for sale on Etsy, but I don't think it would really be that easy. Anyone have experience with Etsy stl file packs for 1:1 or better yet, any way of finding the old sto mega packs floating around?
>>
Any thoughts on the new Saturn 4(basic and ultra) ? I think it is time to Upgrade my Mars 2 Pro. Im just printing for me and some friends, so I dont need the fanciest stuff.
>>
>>92598275
if you want to throw away money on uneeded shit i'll give you my venmo
>>
>>92598313
May I ask you then why you are on tg? Everything here is unneeded shit, not only on 3dpg. Its called a "Hobby".
>>
>>92598365
May I ask how someone so retarded as yourself is able to use the internet? You have a perfectly fine printer (unless it is broken beyond repair) yet you want to spend more money getting another, that is what I meant by unneeded.
>>
>>92598513
OK little man maybe some day you will understand why somebody will Upgrade their stuff.
Everybody else who is not a poor little fella: thoughts on the tilt technology? If the FEP breaks I imagine this could be a disaster.
>>
>>92598588
>why upgrade
That is what I am asking you, you fucktard. Is there a specific reason you need to buy the newest/latest thing or are you just the dumbest cunt on earth who gives his money to anyone who waves something new and shiny in front of your eyes.

I bet you are one of those fucktards that queues outside of an apple store for days to buy the latest iPhone when you already own the previous version. You asking /3dpg/ about the latest thing just shows how out of touch with reality you are. Do you think everyone here just upgrades their machine every time there is a new release? The saturn 4 was released less than 2 weeks ago you fuckwit, even if someone did buy it day one you aren't going to get solid information for a month or two.

We print minis to save money not keep spending money to dick stroke on a indonesian pottery forum about our latest purchase.
>>
>>92598766
I told already in my first post Im using a Mars 2. You brought it up that Im a Person whos buys all the new fancy stuff. Do you know how old the Mars 2 already is? You cant it even buy it any more on their Website. Stop making arguments that are clearly false.
I clearly dont buy every year the newest stuff crayon eater.
Maybe I just buy a Saturn 4 that I can print you some children toys or are you still playing with your poop?
But if you insinst to know why somebody want to Upgrade from an old printer to a newer one (somebody with a more developed brain than toddler) :
Bigger print volume
Faster print speed
Quality of life changes like Auto leveling
Easy access to spares/maintaining
Auto fail detection
Etc.

And if I buy a new printer doesnt mean I wouldnt use the old one any longer.

I know it is not out yet thats why I asked for thoughts and not for reviews.
>>
>>92598933
>I'm butthurt and my reply is full of venom to show just how much my sphincter is inflamed.

Any reason you didn't ask about the Saturn 3? It's only a year old and available for a much cheaper price as Elegoo has it on sale to clear out the stock. It has all those features you mentioned and has been on the market long enough to get good feedback. Or how about refurbished machines from the elegoo warehouse which are cheaper still.

No need to reply, you've made it quite clear what kind of socially retarded turbospurg you are.
>>
>>92598933
>Easy access to spares/maintaining
https://www.elegoo.com/collections/elegoo-spare-parts-for-mars-series-lcd-resin-3d-printers
That was pretty easy to find. Are you such a dumbfuck you need everything spoonfed to you.
>Again a rhetorical question
>>
>>92599104
Yeah now...but can you guarantee me that they still sell spare parts for an out of production printer in 1-2 years?

Just let it be good. I dont understand your rage when somebody just asked for an opinion.
>>
>>92599160
I can still buy replacement parts for my LD-002R and its been out of production a fuckload longer than the Mars 2 and it wasn't even half as popular. so I am going to go out on a limb and say yes.

You can continue to show your ignorance and butthurt by passive-aggressive posting at me all you want, it slides like water off a duck. I thank you for keeping the thread bumped and me slightly entertained.
>>
>>92594339
you mad cuz you cant paint
>>
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Printing an ortus forge warhound lads and it's making me want to kms.
Printing has been fine, assembly has been beyond aids. Dude put no tolerances into any of his parts so even after sanding (ugh, I know) the parts still dont fit and half of them snapped when I put them together. It's been hell, never do a warhound lads.
>>
>>92599386
Have you tried blending a liitle flexible resin into your vat with your stardard resin?
>>
>>92579367
Kys retard
>>
lmao 3dpg bitter rage posting will never fail to crack me up
>>
>>92599386
what's that base made of ?
Also persevere my brother , better than spending 1 gorillion dollars on a "real" one
>>
>>92600371
That's a cake base. It was cheap, could feasibly be reinforced to make it a suitable base. However, I'm kinda liking the marbling and might want to use that as the base with some weathering pigments etc. So I've gotta find a wooden/plastic disc that's also 11inches to place underneath now.
Thanks for the kind words. Printing the torso now. I'm going to heavily convert this and cover it in skulls, pipes etc, so I'm not too worried about the cracks and broken bits. I just wish I knew blender better so I can shave a few mm off most of the bits.
>>
>>92578756
I'd avoid Mono X's in particular and Anycubic resin machines in general.
Mine was a piece of shit that broke within the first few months (Top cover on delivery the only part that was free to replace, UV lamps within first 6 months and mobo connections on replacing it) and dealing with Anycubic's tech service is a nightmare and they start charging like $50+ for replacement parts after the first 6 months even if the legal minimum in my jurisdiction is 1 year.
>>
>>92600679
Dunno about the wash & cure though. I mean specifically their resin printers to be clear.
>>
>>92598513
Not him, but having a Mars 2 Pro i have to say that its print bed is not that big.
Sure you can split bigger models, or just print two times for a big amount of infantry, but if i had the space and the money i would probably also go for something "saturn" sized.
Besides that, its not like i (or he i assume) will throw away the old printer. And having two printers is always nice, so you could print even more at the same time.
But the ability to print bigger stuff in one piece is not "unneeded" if you like big stuff.
>>
>>92598766
>We print minis to save money

Speak for yourself, poorfag.
>>
>>92579367
This is pretty good actually. People on 4chan are famous across the world for being horrible people so just be aware theres a big difference between the things you hear on here and the way a normal human's brain works. She looks cool. I can see room for improvement but she's nothing like the angry NEETs on this website would have you believe.
>>
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>>92602765
you sound like you've had a lot of practice grooming children online. next you'll be offering him a juice box and asking if he wants to come to your house and see your puppy
>>
>>92600679
>I'd avoid Anycubic resin machines in general.
i would agree with this. i have to say i've never owned an anycubic machine, they seem to have more horror storiies than other brands.
>>
>>92578756
see >>92604083
>>
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>thread needs less reddit and more prints
>>
>>92579367
Repulsive, awful, retarded, gay, shite, faggot etc etc.
>>
>>92579367
>A weaker skinny gay looking pathetic space marine with a gay haircut and a punchable faggot face
Woah you really pwned the grogs here anon.
Keep Yourself Safe!
>>
>>92602765
I'm glad you liked it, ty.
After the MtR that I did a couple of months ago, 3 weeks sculpting a copy, I wanted to make something fast and it is not the first time that I update an old model.
Yes I've fixed the arms the sword and I sculpted a hair variation for the 2nd model, I'm not sure if I should remove the lines in the chest, I could change the body to make it multipose too but i have no need really.
>>
>>92602765
>>92608512
samefag
>>
>>92608575
it looks like but I'm not, yes I should stop talking about that thing, this is not my personal blog.
>>
>>92608625
for the record i think you have good skill, but it was a terrible sculpt originally and nothing will ever save it, not even a re-model. for example what model armor is that even supposed to be? it is not even close to scout armor. i hope the original sculptor hung themselves from shame after it was published in white dwarf
>>
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almost done cleaning up my not krieg print, so I can finally get to the painting part
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>>92611234
how long did it take? do you have a pic of before the clean?
>>
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>>92611392
took me a bit more than an hour, mostly to clean some dimples and edge errors with an xacto knife
>>
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Test 1/72 ruski from Henry Turner for non wargaming diorama, printed on 2k Halot One
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>>92611234
That is terrible. You are wasting your life.
>>
>>92583098
>From a technical pov you obviously know what you are doing,
no he doesn't, it's shit
>>
>>92579367
femstode?
needs a bigger ass
>>
>>92611234
wtf did you print it with? candle wax and pubes?
>>
>>92614167
compared to me he is a fucking genius. i will say you can tell he's not good with organics though
>>
>>92613954
>>92614852
nogames with nofriends detected
>>
>>92615240
FDMnigger cope.
>>
>>92615882
nogame nofriend cope
>>
>>92613954
>>92614852
Post prints faggot
>>
>>92608235
cute belly
>>
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Does anyone know if this particular model has ever been scanned and put up anywhere? It is vitally important I get ahold of this somehow for a personal project of mine. I'm not requesting links or anything, but I'm wondering if there are some search terms that could help, if it's even possible to find this anywhere. He's called Commander Rambost, I think, and his runner thing I think says orc leader.
>>
>>92608235
Pretty pretty cool
Where is it from?
>>
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>>92614540
heres a femstode
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>>92617966
one of the first releases by bestiarum miniatures - the jailor.
>>
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luv me magic
luv me forbidden knowledge
luv me twist of fate
'ate jocks
'ate decay and stasis
'ate space wolves (not racist just don't like 'em)
simple as
>>
How do you guys handle waste disposal? I have a system that I thought was working, a big clear plastic jug that I threw all of my waste into and let the sun cook it. But it finally got full and I went to empty it out so I could re-use the jug, and I am finding that there is way more moisture in there than I thought there was, which I'm worried means that the resin isn't getting cured. I think the disposible gloves are trapping more moisture and blocking more UV than expected.

How do you guys get rid of your disposible gloves and resin/IPA soaked paper towers and shit in a responsible way?
>>
>>92621204
I'm the not my problem guy. I tip all IPA and resin straight down the sink or toilet, i chuck uncured resin and supports straight in the trash. I don't actually give a fuck.
>>
>>92621300
I guess that tracks with you being the kind of person who specifically replies to someone asking a question just to tell them that you won't tell them an answer.
>>
>>92621359
He gave you an answer, you just didn't like it.
If you rent, this shit goes straight down the sink. Someone else's problem.
If you own your own home, best thing to do is put all your towels inside a bag, and throw them in general waste. Someone else's problem.
>>
>>92621436
> If you rent, this shit goes straight down the sink. Someone else's problem.

No, its still your problem. This isn't cooking oil where its a matter of the plumbing in your building, its poisoning the water supply. Unless you are moving out a week later, thats affecting you. Its not a someone else problem, you've made it an everyone problem and you are included in everyone.
>>
>>92621204
>in a responsible way?

:^)
>>
>>92621473
> its poisoning the water supply.

And there are people whose job it is to filter that stuff, so what
>>
Wow, Sunlu resin cures *fast*. With elegoo a little bit of sunlight getting past me wasn't that big a deal, but I stepped into the sun holding my resin tray to throw out a paper towel and by the time I was back in shade the top of the resin pool had already formed a thick film.
>>
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I just got new resin, replaced the FEP film, and started using my Mars again. The prints are super inconsistent though, some print fine while others on the same plate with the same supports don't even stick. I just tried to print one and it wouldn't even get the raft on the build plate. Do the resin settings look off, or could the FEP film be too tight (I hope not, I hate all those screws)
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>>92622064
>There are people whose job it is to put out fires
>That makes it OK for me to go set fire to everything

This is your brain on fumes. You probably also throw your trash on the floor since your mom vacuums regularly.
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>>92624232
How's your resin temp? Are you doing anything to warm the resin? A bottom exposure time of 60s is frankly absurd, 30 should be plenty and a 32-35 is 'overly cautious'.

When I was starting out, the biggest cause of failed prints not sticking to the plate was the resin being too cold. If you are printing outside some way of keeping the resin vat warm during printing is basically mandatory.
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>>92624431
I am printing outside, but its a shed in california so 65-ish. I could close the window and turn the fan off since I'm not in there though, or should it be even higher? I'll try turning the bottom exposure down too, but that wouldn't be causing it to not stick at all right?
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>>92624487
You can try turning the exposure time down but I'd be surprised if that was the cause.

65 should be optimal temp, though maybe the inside of the shed is cooler than outside? Or the resin itself is stored someplace cool and needs to be warmed up a little?
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>>92624568
I'll give that all a shot, thank you!
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>>92621300
>>92621436
>>92622049
>>92622064
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Alright, I'm almost on the verge of jumping into resin (the "Mars 1 as a handout" guy from the past thread).

I feel stupid, I can't seem to wrap my head around slicing.

Is Lychee and all its community pre-set options a meme? Because I keep switching printers in the slicer between Mars and Mars Mono Upgrade (as you kind people adviced as a day-one-upgrade) and it gives me EXACTLY the same printing time.

Isn't the mono screen supposed to be more effective in curing and thus require less time? Do I have to fiddle manually with options? Do I use Chitubox instead and just fill everything by hand?

If so, can I ask what to put in if I want to print on a Mars 1 - mono upgrade - with Siraya Fast + a dab of Tenacious?
I read that that's a good mix for toughness and I was lucky enough to have other some-WH-inclined friends bankroll my first batch of stuff (as in, they buy me resin and in exchange I print them everything they ask for, until I get my shit together my payment will be that I won't be paying for inevitable fuck-ups)?

I guess there will be fiddling to be done depending from my specific printer, but let's start from common-sense settings and see where I land with those.
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>>92624829
Don't know what settings you got shown, but in Lychee I see 8s exposure time for default resin settings for mars 1 and the same for the mars 2 pro is 2s.

I would advise you to download https://core-electronics.com.au/media/kbase/494/Exposure_Test_Models-Three.zip and print the validation matrix, flat on the plate, without supports (yes people did that), with the default settings. It is tiny and fast and uses almost no resin.

It will either print something, or everything will have stayed on the FEP.
If it printed, you can see if it over or under exposed the normal layers, so fix change the numbers and print again.

If it fails, that means you had not enough adhesion for the bottom layers, so add a few seconds burn layer exposure.
For cleaning, newer printers have a function that will just cure the full screen so you can take off everything that was left behind without scratching up your fep, but you can simulate that by making a file where you print a cube that covers your whole plate, but you need to take off the plate, else it will try to smash through the failed parts.
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>>92624729
Ahhhhhh, I'm just not gonna dispose safely of my 3d printing waste,,, hahaha,,, i'm just... not gonna do it lol... I just don't give a fuck. lmao stay mad.
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>>92624391
Imagine being so cucked you can't start fires and make your mum pick up trash ahhahah
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>>92624829
Hello, I use a Mars 2 pro and I've had great success using Lychee's community resin profiles. Generally I try to lean towards slower lift speeds and not too long of an exposure. Overexposed resin is a fucking hazard to get off a freshly sanded and cleaned build plate, almost sliced me hand with my scraper chiseling shit off. Also overexposing makes supports a bitch to remove. Play with it and find the sweet spots via experimentation. It's part of the fun.
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>>92624829
>>92625235
Part 2 : Yes, there will be inevitable fuck ups. But you can't fuck up more than paying retail price for miniatures and losing the freedom to create whatever you want + access to a literal whole planet of creators making awesome stuff. 3D printing is incredible, any barriers to entry are far outweighed by how awesome 3d printing is, in my opinion.
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>>92624232
Have you tried cleaning your build plate with IPA and then sanding it with 400 grit sandpaper? Helped a LOT with adhesion for me. After every print I clean and sand the plate. Also make sure your resin is preheated before printing. I use a beer brewing thermal band around the vat that I think stays at 30 celcius constantly. Apart from that, if you are confident you have levelled correctly and FEP is quality and installed properly, it's most likely a resin profile / print settings issue.
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>>92625109
>Don't know what settings you got shown, but in Lychee I see 8s exposure time for default resin settings for mars 1 and the same for the mars 2 pro is 2s.

Exactly. I've read a bunch of people talking exactly of the jump from 8s to 2s (and 65s to 35s for the base layers) with the mono screen, but the Lychee setting are exactly the same the old 8s even if one select the mono upgrade profile.

> but you need to take off the plate, else it will try to smash through the failed parts.

So I just let the printer run the flat print without anything to dip into the vat?
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>>92625359
Try a mars 2 profile and if it is underexposed, try something in between the most used mars 1 and most used mars 2 . In other words - experiment.
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>>92625435
Thats gonna do nothing, a mars 1 color screen needs way more time, that is gonna do nothing but waste resin.

>>92625359
>So I just let the printer run the flat print without anything to dip into the vat?
What you want is for the whole screen to be lit up for long enough to cure a sheet you can peel off with gloves. So I would make a cube as big as your plate and as high as your layer height and have the burn layer time something like 20s for a mars 1, try longer if it does not stay together for the peel.
The thing about the plate is, sometimes your prints fail midway, so you have a half mini in the vat, and if you run such a file it will smash the mini down to your layer height, or kill your printer while trying. So I would run that file while you take off the plate and remove what worked and clean it.
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>>92625343
I haven't sanded the build plate, but I'll try that next. I set a heater right next to the printer and resin, but sadly no luck. The print sticks only to the FEP, and seems super thin even on that. I'll try replacing it tomorrow.
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>>92577766
did tortuga bay ever put out an STL for the bodies for these guys? I know they put out ones for the arms/weps/heads but I can't find any for the main bodies
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>>92625621
Did he not say he has a mono screen upgrade?
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>>92625903
I had the same problem, what fixed it was heating the resin, thoroughly cleaning and sanding the build plate then releveling. Also using more expensive resins.
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>>92628210
Guess I'll get one. 10hrs to 3something is quite the jump
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>>92577766
So how about that Fallout show?

Anyway, who sell some good post-apocalyptic models that I could use in something like "This is not a Test"?

If they're modular, that would be even better
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>>92630220
>So how about that Fallout show?
it is not /pol/ approved if that's what you are asking for, white men bad, capitalism bad, interracial couples galore and a tranny, but Walton Goggins is great.
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>>92630220
Show was good, my no 3 vidya adaption after Last of us and Arcane.

I was looking for some cosplay models, did not find anything good enough yet.
Too many of the free models are the pure game files, so low poly shit, and even with subdivisions and normal maps they stay too shitty for that scale.

Maybe now after the Fallout 4 upgrade there will be better files to rip.
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>>92630343
>Last of us and Arcane
tell us you are a homosexual with shit taste without telling us you are homosexual and have shit taste
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>>92630878
Because video game adaptions are so great, please tell me, what is a better one? Asscreed? Farcry?
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>>92630955
postal
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>>92630955
way off topic and not a discussion i would have with someone who rates a show that dedicated an entire episode to two old men fucking as their #1 pick
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>>92613195
Where'd you get it from?
>>92630220
I've started looking at the Fallout 4 nexus for better models to stick in blender and convert into stl's
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Been getting into designing some stuff in CAD for gaming and am curious about if anyone has experience selling online. Was looking into using Shapeways since I don't have a 3dprinter of my own yet. Thoughts?
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>>92630220
Have you checked Vermilion?
https://www.myminifactory.com/users/Vermilion_miniatures#/

They do some Fallout inspired sets, and some (most?) can be found in the blue whatsapp. there is also Evan Carothers.

https://www.myminifactory.com/users/EC3D%20Design

Print Minis and Ratman Forge have also a lot of "Wasteland" themed stuff, but its more aimed towards Nekromunda, but still some things can be used for Not-Fallout games
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Pretty happy with this scan even my camera can’t focus for shit.
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>>92633324
Dude share the file!! That scan is beautiful!
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>>92618190
>Cuntstode
Kill yourself
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>>92633324
Where are the little dudes on the right from?
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>>92632009
Arcane is objectively good, tho
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>>92577766
I'm wondering if it would be worth it to start with a FDM printer or if I should skip that and go straight to resin. I'm mostly wondering if FDM is still good for small infantry sized minis with some intricate details.
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Has anyone made ignatus pattern armor for regular (male) humans?
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>>92635477
>FDM is still good for small infantry sized minis with some intricate details
When you say small, do you mean epic scale (6-15mm)? if so then no. FDM is best for terrain, vehicles and at a pinch 28/32mm minis but they will not be as detailed as SLA printers can be (see >>92611234 for example). FDM has the advantage of lower printing/clean up costs and can do more than just print minis, but the trade off is high detail. If you just want better proxies or terrain for games at home with your friends on a limited budget then FDM is the way to go. If you want to wank off in your local game store or subreddit/facebook group at how each of your minis is a work of art then SLA is for you.
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>>92635807
>qualifying the gender
You are part of the problem
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>>92633324
>my camera can’t focus for shit
Place the mini in front of a piece of paper or something similar that is of a color different to the mini
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>>92636363
Anon, all power armor I find is space marines, sisters, or female Inquisitors.
I just want regular, non-Astartes power armor for male Inquisitors
Don't become butthurt because you didn't understand what word modified what
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>>92636617
>butthurt
I'm not the one that spurged out three lines of text. Because of a certain litigious company who claims ownership of words it will make it very hard to find what you want using the specific terms you used. You are best to join other social media platforms and join groups specifically focused on miniatures and asking there. This thread is monitored and has been used in the past to locate files to be taken down.
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>>92633806
6mm scale Panthera Warforge dudes.
https://cults3d.com/en/users/Panthera_WarForge/3d-models
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So a while back I ordered some replacement FEP sheets for my mars 3, and when I went to replace my FEP sheet I noticed they were blue instead of the normal clear.
Turns out PFA sheet instead.

Anyways I installed it onto the vat and began printing.
I'm about halfway through and it just occurred to me, does swapping between FEP and PFA sheets require different settings?
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>>92638099
>Turns out PFA sheet instead.
I ordered PFA sheets instead.

fuck I can't type
here's a print failure to make up for it.
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Hatamoto!
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anybody know if anybody's ever made decently scaled jin-roh models to proxy for IG/scions?
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>>92638107
The blue that comes on pfa and fep is the protective layer you're supposed to peel off, anon
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>>92638313
Nice.
Is he from Wargames Atlantic?
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>>92638437
I'm sure i've seen them in the past. Davik maybe?
I'll look through my files and maybe make a 2nd post later.
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>>92638794
>>92638437
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/panzer-korps-riot-control
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>ultra is super duper
>can't print finest details even with film exchanged
does anyone in here have mars 4 and/or 4 ultra? all I see on internetz are ultra shills as the only advantage I can see is the build plate. I don't wanna whine, but it would be lovely if any of you guys could post pics of prints and preferably in front of the printer.
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>>92632059
>Where'd you get it from?
Internet piracy
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>>92639653
Outside of calibration prints made to stress test your slicer settings you won't notice a difference in detail between the base Mars 4 and any other consumer printer currently available. We're at the point where you should only be looking for build volume and QoL features that you think would suit your needs (heaters, resin pumps, etc).
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>>92638789
Yeah, a bit fiddly to glue the small bits together so I might digitally preassemble the next few (even though it means having to do my own supports)
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newfag here, I was planning to buy the M5s Pro version of the Anycubic, I mean the auto leveling feature looks nice, but after watching some videos and reading some horror stories Im not really sure. Can you guys recommend me another one for about the same budget? I will mostly use the printer for warhammer minis.
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>>92642201
Nevermind, I'll just get a Saturn 3
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>>92642201
>I was planning to buy the M5s Pro version of the Anycubic..

Anon, i bought that exact printer a few months ago. I have nothing but positive things to say about it. I'm sure there are bad machines out there, just like every company would have, but i feel you should give it a shot.
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>>92642609
Im just scared, so many machines, so little time...
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So I've been working a bit more on this and I think it is ready to print now.
>inbf you only did that shitty muzzle flash and the hair
>the poses are silly
>my friend has a better sculpt on patreon.
>the legs are fucked in both sculpts.
>and I hate the female space warriors.
Yes I know, anyway.
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>>92639093
cheers anon
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>>92642682
cool stuff, are these going to be single pieces or do you plan on splitting the models up?
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>>92642848
the bodies are monopose, I've splitted the backpack, the shoulders the head and the hands to make variations but that's it.
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Im looking for space marines that DONT look exactly like GW minis. Im looking for more of a cheap/bootleg/chinese-knock-off aesthetic. Any recommendations?
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>>92644586
Half of Cults3D is exactly that
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>>92636311
well thanks for the insight. I'm drawn to FDM printers for the reasons you mentioned, those being FDM printers are easier to work with and the lower cost of entry.
as for infantry I'm not planning on doing epic scale stuff. just infantry in the 28 to 35mm range is what I'm thinking of. so I guess if I want that autistic detail I'll have to get resin? but is the overall drop in quality really that bad?
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Not mini related, but what are some good artists for statues/figures/busts? Would like to start moving into painting some but I've got no idea where to start.
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>>92645607
Have a look at pic in >>92642609. That's a large terrain piece but is pretty crisp. Maybe that anon has used the same printer to do some minis and is willing to share a pic with the class.
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>>92646256
>Not mini related
>>>/diy/3dpg
>>
Who whoever recommended me other resins when I was having trouble with the elegoo 8k in a previous thread: Thanks a ton. the Sunlu ABS-like has been perfect. Elegoo even sent me a second bottle of their 8K after I complained, and that shit still won't stick to the plate. But the Sunlu works every time.
Wherever you are, anon, I hope you have a great day and good prints.
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>>92646358
Thanks for that.
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>>92645607
>>92646334
I'm that Anon and i don't have any FDm mini's to compare, but i have loads of minis printed off that printer. A Anycubic M5s pro.

Heres a Snake thing at 28mm.

Also my print here:>>92592635
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DM Stash Shill here

Both the terrain set and the Fey Lion from this month won the poll. Enjoy fellas.

https://mega.nz/file/AJVgnazb#cD2arNIjD4E47fDgpSOvrS4kdugk3nur8YD-fIZW4oU

https://mega.nz/file/0J0XGQiB#Y8Ef2dLYIcmYVabDRLQhk9601C3aCnsdSdtRgrPyPDk

Also this guy is still free until the end of the month

https://www.dmstash.com/product/lizarin-paladin-of-renmaeth/
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>>92577766
Anyone know where to get Good Phobos STLs? I have only found a handful of them as most people screw up the legs.
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>>92648608
Thanks
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>>92642682
ugly and gay



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