Recently I got inspired by this guy who models their cosplays with cardboard and I got surprised by how good the round shapes ended up look like. I only want to make a mask with round shapes but every tutorial I found uses straight strokes for the template and I want to know if I can find more information of how to do it the other way
>>625438yup.
>>625421For searchable terms: a **dart** is the sewing/pattern term for the type of cut shown in your helmet pattern photo used to turn a flat surface into a ball-like curved surface. The opposite concept of adding material to get a saddle-shaped surface doesn't have an exactly analogous term in sewing to my knowledge, but **godet** comes kinda close.
>>628206If you just want to start getting your hands dirty, one way to come up with 2d cutting patterns like you see here is to work backwards from 3d to 2d. For example, let's suppose you wanted to design a suit of cosplay armor that will fit you, and you want to know what shapes to cut out of foam or cardboard that can be fitted together into your armor. You get a friend to wrap your whole body in saran wrap, then wrap around that saran wrap with duct tape. Then you draw on the duct tape with a sharpy and try to partition the surface of into areas that have roughly zero gaussian curvature (either flat-ish surfaces like the front of your chest, cylindrical-ish sections like your upper arm, or conical sections like the taper of your forearm), areas with negative gaussian curvature (pringle/saddle shapes, like where your pectoral muscle attaches to the arm), and areas with positive gaussian curvature (roughly spherical bumps like your shoulders or roughly spherical indents like your armpits). mark each region with a +, -, or 0 according to what its curvature is.Once you separate the surface into these curvature areas mark each side of each label each side of each sharpie line with a number so you can put it all back together later. Then carefully cut off the saran/duct tape along the sharpie lines, preferably with kiddie scissors so you don't stab yourself.
>>628207Now sort the pieces +, -, and 0 piles. The zero pieces should flatten out nicely as they are. They can just be cut out of foam as they are. + and - pieces will stubbornly not want to lie flat as they are. The (+) pieces will get taught around the edges and loose in the middle when you try to flatten them. They may even tear around the edges if you try too hard. To get it to lie flat, you add some some labeled sharpie lines around the outside then cut them (like in your helmet photo). These are your darts. Do this until it lies flat.The (-) pieces will get all wrinkly and fold over themselves around the edges if you try to flatten them. to get these flat, you gotta remove some material around the edges. Draw some pizza slices (godots) around the outside and label the edges, then cut the pizza slices all the way out, but hold onto them. Do this until each of the pieces lies more or less flat with no overlap around the edge of each main (-) piece. Now you have a bunch of flat pieces which you can trace onto your cardboard or whatever. Add a little extra size around all edges (except for the edges from darts and godots) so the thing isn't skin-tight. Cut all the pieces, bend them into shape, and glue them together by the edge labels. Now you have some fitted armor.
>>628208If you want to learn about this stuff in more detail here are a few different avenues you can dive into pretty deep:For sewing and patterning stuff: look up Colette Wolff's "The Art of Manipulating Fabric". Which covers darts and godots and a million other things that come in handy for this kinda work.To learn about the curvature type stuff requires a lot of math background, but generally speaking this is the primary topic of differential geometry of surfaces. Here's a URL to a free textbook pdf: https://docenti.ing.unipi.it/griff/files/dC.pdfChapters 1 through 4 would get you to a working knowledge of why the saran-wrap and duct tape method with the +, -, and 0 curvature regions works. Fair warning that diff geo pretty much demands you understand multivariate/vector calculus and linear algebra, and maybe some real analysis.I have also seen someone mention developable surfaces, which is the principle object of study in paper-folding mathematics, AKA computational origami. That's another fruitful avenue of study, but I warn it's significantly more challenging math than the diff-geo. That being said, you can just use tools other people have made based on this math without understanding it. Here's a list of resources you could use to wet your beak surrounding comp origami: https://langorigami.com/article/computational-origami/
Papercraft with additional / alternate materials, aluminum, wire...
>soon
Anyone else ever check this thread or am I alone in this universe
>>628173
Metal foil origami is neat
Does anybody have diagrams for this model? They can be found in SAOC "origami Records vol1" the book with shipping is too expensive just for the one model.
Do any of these contain diagrams? Or is it just the CP? From my understanding the book I mentioned was the only one with diagrams
>>628133Do any of these contain diagrams? Or is it just the CP? From my understanding the book I mentioned was the only one with diagrams
Anyone got soac con or korea25 TY
>>628128I have it.E-mail me: atoyqc5010(@)protonmail.com
>>628149Email sent!
>Paperboots get smaller
>>623911cute and wonderful. God bless you.
omg boat family
>>623912it makes me sound like a fag but I love how whenever you find build instructions they can be in any possible language. Just looking at the meaningless diagram saying I need to ㄎ歸ㄑ雖ㄙㄩㄜˉ
this is such a wonderful photoi hope you'll have a great day anon
>>623911 Me encantaría saber cómo hiciste el chiquitito.
made years ago and I want to recreate, cannot find the diagram or name of the shape anywhere
>>625093man that's cool it doesn't even seem possible
>>625095No problem.
>>625093the 3d paper jew
Cool
>>625098Oh no I see it too
I got this action figure used for cheap. He was missing his vest so I made him one out of orange cardstock and rubber cement. It's a very amateurish job but I am still proud of it
>>627899>>627890Thanks guys
>>627821Very nifty, it worked out great Anon.
Not an origami person but I respect the craftsmanship, sick vest!
Looks great.
>>627821fuck yeah dude, i'm glad to see this. it adds tons of personality. fits pretty much perfectly on him.
Hello guys, what happens?I would like you to help me choose a good role of origami, I want to raise my level (Very complex figures) and do complex things but here in Colombia it is impossible to find good quality or special role for origami.A friend in the USA will soon come and can bring me paper. I want to know which one should buy according to my needs.I will put options that I have in mind. My friend is in Florida.
De los de la foto, te recomiendo el #7, el #3 y el tant (#1).¿Has utilizado alguna vez algún papel "especial"? ¿Cuál ha sido el modelo más complejo que has plegado? Porque también depende mucho de esto anterior. Pues, por ejemplo, estos papeles no te servirían para plegar modelos complejos o muy complejos, como los de Shuki Kato o Kamiya (tal vez solo para practicar), pues el papel se va desgastando y "lastimando".Te recomiendo mejor, buscar "duo thai", Unryu (mulberry), shadow fold, alios kraft, tissue foil, hanji, satogami, momigami... Papeles de preferencia, artesanales hechos a mano, como los de la. Tiemds de Nicolas Terry o Pham Hoang Tuan.Si te puedo ayudar en algo más, escríbeme a arellanoarturo636(arroba)gmail.com
>>628117Make your own paper.
You should try making "double tissue" with regular tissue paper and wallpaper paste (or pure methyl cellulose if you can get it). There's lots of different techniques for making it, and shouldn't be hard to find video tutorials. For fancier stuff, I'm not too sure what's around in Colombia but you could look for mulberry fiber papers at art supply stores. You can make those kinds of papers fold very nicely if you treat them with methyl cellulose or wallpaper paste (the same way as you make double tissue).
If so could I please have it
Hello!I currently have a group dedicated to finding and posting Origami books on Discord. do you want join?Invitation link: https://discord.gg/JC65pEeNIf you have any doubts, below is a book "as a gift for you" (but the maximum allowed file is only 8 mb)
Anyone1 know Comic origami 3, Otm 209,10Or any Disco, Irc or any other place for em. TYVM
>>627487If you can send Ori Fancy 6, I'll send OTM 210
I already got em bro
>>628094Fair enough
If you can help find NOA Magazine no. 50 with the fish on the cover, that would would be great.
Origami paper is pretty much out of my reach.
>>626616I always enter this board by mistakeBut never regret it.
See if you can get a roll of parchment paper at a grocery store (the stuff people use for baking -- not the waxed paper stuff), it's pretty cheap, easy to get, and you can cut big squares from it.Also some wrapping paper can work pretty well, but it's kinda hard to tell which ones are nice for origami without opening up the roll and testing it
I have this problem as well living in Ausfalia. It'll cost a shit ton to import decent paper.
Hijacking this thread to ask a questionI'm working on the gear heart paperwork and the instructions say this about what paper to use16 pieces of 0.25 mm-thick A-4 size (210 x 297) paper. (The original gear’s heart is using Lesac 66 in red, with weight of 175 kg.what is that in gsm? Is Lesac 66 a thing you can buy? the pictures seem to be normalish paper but I'm not sure
>>628077Gsm is grams per square meter. It is basically the thickness of the paper. The weight of the paper is how stiff it is. I think at 175 kg it starts to be cardboard
On the home page of mypapercraft I cant find it.
EVA Foam?
>>627600eva FOAM
I don't have things at the moment but I'd love to see more eva templates or sewing patterns. I don't think there's a nice place to find them like the stuff here.
>>628007could try /cgl/
Previous thread's life finally ended after 3 years. >>553409Let's start a new one!
I'm so stuck with the 8th step of the rat, I'm honestly at a loss at how to do it
>>625018What is bothering you in that step?Top part (labeled 1) are rabbit ears (the same kind of fold as you did in step 2); bottom part is just creasing in half.Any picture of your model so far? Maybe a mistake in a previous step is the cause of your problem.
>>625018Are you >>624840 ?You can check >>624841 to see some advice on step 8, maybe it can help...
Looking for a crane that flaps its wings when you pull on the tail.
>>628029It is usually called "flapping bird".Fold from this diagram until "BIRD BASE" step, and follow the flow heading down:https://www.happyfolding.com/files/Crane-and-Flapping_Bird_0.pdf
Hey I’m just getting into origami. Made a couple lotus flowers already. Can’t decide what to do next, please send me some instructions to pick
>>627133Personal opinion. But roses usually look more impressive. There's a bunch of instructions on youtube. Jo Nakashima on youtube has the best origami instructions imo. Most of the other youtube grifters are lazy.
>>627139i love you
They are beautiful, very lovely ( •̀ ω •́ )
>>627133Hey guys, just wondering if you prefer to glue the origamis or to staple them??
>>628058I try to avoid using glue. Because some pieces will have plot twists in them where halfway through they spin or expand and completely change. I use clothes pins or paper clips when I just can't get it to hold together
Hello! I make pepakura for money. Models are usually constructed only once. My pieces are not so much like what we can find online; they tend to be VERY large and intricate, akin to a vg model. This is context for what my advice applies to. If you do it as an easy hobby or stick with truly low poly/tiny part models, a lot won't apply. No pic related just inspo, this is advice dump not my art thread. If you have any questions, why X, tell me more about Z, I am happy to oblige. I rarely use 4chan and wrote this on a whim, sorry if no reply. If you are interested in reaching for the stars with pepakura, here are my personal trade secrets.MATERIALS/TOOLS---Do not score the fold lines by hand. If you have a silhouette cameo, go ahead. To fold by hand purchase a glass scraper. I have two, one with a small 1.5 inch blade and another that is 4 inches. Dull the blade. I align the fold line across my fingers, press down with the blade.---Stop using an xacto knife. Get a snap blade utility knife. I HIGHLY recommend OLFA, XA-1 design. ---Titebond II Premium wood glue. It doesn't cure instantly but that's good, you don't want that. You want to be able to move the tab around into the perfect position before it starts curing. You have a 10 second window to make sure it's in position before it starts curing, then another 10 seconds till you can let go & any tension in the structure won't pull the tab out of place.---Tiny squeezable craft bottles for glue. One of the bottles I added thicker medical syringe tube. It is long, which is good for when I have to apply glue to a tab which is difficult to access The other bottle has a 1 inch long coffee straw, I use that for when I need a lot of glue then spread it around. When a tab is huge I just open a jar of glue and use a brush to paint it on. ---Dental tools.---Little neodymium magnets. I rarely use them, usually to hold a tab in place after the glue has already cured to the point that I can let go. See below
FINAL PRODUCTI never use colored paper or printed textures. If you want a really nice product, move away from that. Texture has its use in hobby pieces.The glue can overflow out of the seam and get on the paper. If you want to get rid of it then you'll have to cut that part off the model and start over. Look up fox pepakura. If I were to design a simple cute lil fox, that kind of coloring fits the model, but even so there is really no point in using colored paper. Just use painters tape to mask the area you want to paint, at that point you can now add subtle detail to your unique piece. Aesthetically, the best part of large, complex pepakura is its geometry. A single light source makes the whole thing pop. Shadow brings it to life, moving the source changes its appearance. When I finish a piece I spray paint it white to remove imperfection. Most of my pieces sell in this state, that is just what most people want when I show them what it looks like with different light sources and light colors cast on it. I inform the buyer that I can paint it a different solid color, or I can give it a more intricate paint job with undershading/zenithal highlight and/or a more realistic design that doesn't take away from the geometry. For example, a seahorse would do well with a base color, alternate coloring of specific geometry (using painters tape to mark off sections), eyes, and free form spray painting (letting the paint spit out in little drops, spraying highlight on tail tip, undershading), finalize with matte/clear glaze. The geometry is retained and highlighted through this paint job. Don't overdo. My goal is not to make it appear realistic like VGs do to convince you it does't have geometry. I'm not going to print texture on it, not going to use a paintbrush. If I wanted to make a giant realistic seahorse I wouldn't be using paper as a medium. Its form is inherently geometric. Any color design should compliment that.
GOING BIGWorking with such large paper models requires support. 3D printing at this scale has so much imperfection, time and risk of failure, it would be very heavy and require a complex web of internal support. As an art form, sculpting/mold pouring also isn't under threat from this tech in my eyes. For my pieces, shoddy woodworking as a skeleton does the job and I pad the areas were wood contacts the paper with pool noodles, pillow filling wrapped in fabric, fire hazard stuff. 120 lb paper is flexible, surprisingly resilient, and the final product is so lightweight it's never going to warp if properly supported. I use wood glue so the paper will rip before the tabs will ever become unsecured.I've had to finish assembly after transport on site, that's something I avoid, logistic crap. I tend to base the size of my largest pieces around standard dimensions. Standard height of a ceiling, standard width and height of a door and double doors. LxWxH is not a determine factor, you can maneuver a piece diagonally and twist it around to make it fit through a frame. MODELINGidk. I have no formal training. I studied art from my favorite games, Bloodborne and Dark Souls, looked at art, texture-less models. At first I only made symmetrical models and added asymmetrical parts afterwards. Just get blender go on youtube and practice. I copied a bunch of low poly tutorials and then my first model was a huge leap into complexity. If you're making a cat and the proportions look weird just look at a reference and keep messing with it till it seems right. Once you have the proportions right you can make the polygons look more geometric-y. I am not a creative person. I do this in reverence of objective beauty and other's art, try to reverently replicate it in this form. Thanks for reading I hope this helped or inspired you
thank you for this excellent thread
Nice thread, cheers for the glass cutting tool tip.
thank you for these tips
