feels good to be back boys, i got 10 more pickets drying in the garage for another planter. picked up the klein moisture meter for $50, wouldn't bet my life on the readings but overall i'm happy with it

Any wood staining/finishing people here?

I bought some cheap acacia outdoor tiles for my apartment balcony and I'm looking for the lowest effort coating or treatment to keep them from turning to shit.

They don't have to look good, just decent. I'm looking for the absolute bare bones stain or varnish or oil or whatever that will be the minimum effort to brush on once a year. I don't want something that I have to apply, leave for 2-3 days while it dries and then apply again. I don't want something that I have to sand off in order to reapply.

Anybody have any ideas? Would the easiest thing be to just touch up the stain whenever it starts fading off, or is it worth it to do something to protect the stain once it's on?

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>>2989618
Here's someone else's photo of how they look new versus how they look with the stain worn off... I almost prefer the weathered/unfinished look but IDK if there's an easy way to remove the stain when they're new and skip the ugly partially-worn state

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>>2989618
>>2989627
The first step would be identifying if they have any kind of protective finish. Like a varnish or lacquer or something. Once you know what you've got you can look into stripping that off.

As for protecting the wood, look into shellac. It is not super durable but you can basically just brush it on. Once it dries it is done. You want it tougher? Do additional coats. Oh no, it got damaged? Just brush on more. You can also tint it if you want some fancy colors or different shades.

Once thing, it is a byproduct from a bug, so it is not vegan. I mean, for me that is a plus but I know others don't like it. Don't get the fancy expensive bullshit stuff. Get the chips and make your own. It is cheaper.

>>2989627
sand or just let them go, will probably fade in a year anyways let the earth absorb its sweet nectar. else go with something for decks

>>2989618
Behr exterior penetrating oil, available at HD

>>2989627
100% tung oil or die.
Waiting 3 days and wiping the excess after 30-60 minutes is essential, no shortcuts.

>>2989558
Having roof done. Contractor says moisture in attic. Rafters are all damp and need to be replaced for $$. Whip out my moisture meter and read 8%.

Is this guy a scammer or what?

>>2989752
Check the rafters. Are they wet? Are they coming apart, moldy, or damaged? Did you get a second and third opinion like a sensible person always does?

>>2989752
8% sounds suspicious. are you sure you trust your moisture meter? do you live in the desert or something?

>>2989752
if leak new, wet rafters are a non-issue
do you suspect rafters are deteriorated due to moisture intrusion from a longstanding leak, to the point where they are structurally compromised?
You check this with a screwdriver not a moisture meter.

>>2989762
>Check the rafters. Are they wet? Are they coming apart, moldy, or damaged?
No. And no.
>8% sounds suspicious. are you sure you trust your moisture meter?
It reads about 40% on a piece of bare plywood outside but under cover.
> do you live in the desert or something?
Washington State. But the attic is very well ventilated and it gets hot up there when the sun is out. So I figure the structure gets baked pretty well.
>do you suspect rafters are deteriorated due to moisture intrusion from a longstanding leak,
No leak evident. Contractor might think I'm an idiot and he's looking for more work. There's a few sheets of plywood that are a bit mushy where rain got driven under old shingles. But that's about it.

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>>2989863
Nta but neither measurement sounds reasonable, should be 10-30 for both unless were talking baked as in fire hazard hot. If it gets and stays under 15ish % and theres no rot visible you should be fine. Do a pick test with an awl or screwdriver.

>>2989744
Tung tung tung oil?

>>2989752
Tear the whole house down and repour the foundation. If it was 7% you'd be cool. What's your elevation above sea level and barometer?

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got this for like 3 dollars. i sharpened it and the edge is pretty good, but it's basically unusable with this hackjob front. any pointers on how to fix this? any advice is appreciated. also

>sand some random pieces of oak
>spray them with water so the wood hair raise
>rest them on some plastic brackets and angle iron since i had it lying around so why not
>come back 3 hours later, boards look dry
>flip them around
>every single one has this fucking huge purplish line on them, exactly where the steel was touching
now you can learn from my mistake

>>2990228
do a better job of joining the new nose. Probably choose taller material. Then take 1/16 off the entire bottom edge with a tablesaw. Chamfer the tip and wax.

idk I only use power tools

>>2990228
This is why you dont use nails with oak. Don't even use glue from a bottle that's been capped with a screw or nail even once in its life.
>>2990233
This is OK but should read "fix the large crack, then either cut off the nose or the entire sole, glue a new sole on and flatten using any available method."

>>2990250
Is this thread going to be 300 posts of pissing contest again?

I’m looking to make a chess board but all instruction videos tell me to glue laminate the light/dark strips then cut into new strips then flip 4 of them and glue up again. But that 2nd glue joint would be 100% end grain to end grain, right?
Should I do anything special to make that a good glue joint? Or do I just rely on the backing board for strength

>>2990304
You can have a backer sheet and a border to lock everything together.

>>2990274
well the crack IS a problem, even i can see that
>>2990233
>>2990250
thanks, i'll see what i can do. by the way that nose is screwed on

>>2990313
Well, you might want to get the base coplanar and stop the crack by the frog from propagating. Odds are the blade isn't sharp.

How about we take care of our tools before posting graphs and ripping roofs down? Pour tung oil on everything and hope tomorrow is better.

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I did a thing!
Where’s my
>WTF are you trying to do? What even is that?
Award, Reddit?

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>>2990334
i put mine in another bucket to keep it from imploding, nice work though, does it still work properly?

>>2990336
>tfw you made le funneyi shitpost feeling all smug and five minutes later someone figured it out what you where trying to do
It works quite good, it seems, but I have yet to acquire a cigarette to test it for leaks. Or maybe I should smoke my workshop again with incense (though it’s not as Smokey as a cigarette but smells better).
Hard to judge if it uses more power than my big, fixed double cyclone system. And I just need to figure out some kind of attachment to my vacuum, so I can wheel it around with it.

>>2990274
Thank you anon for pointing that out, I'll try to be less vindictive.

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why nobody posts projects anymore? todays project is a guitar stand that looks like a chair

Are there any cool accessories which go well with woodworking that I can 3D print?

So far all I've made which i semi-decent is a sanding paper block.

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>>2990804
corner radiuses (radii?) are pretty straightforward to draw up and make parametric for whatever sizes you want. what's your sanding block design? been meaning to make one all i'm using is a scrap with some velcro on each side

>>2990807
Sorry when I said I made, I mean I printed, not actually mine.

https://www.printables.com/model/563271-sanding-block-93x115-115x140

>corner radiuses
Thanks, might do one of these next.

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>>2990804
i also do a lot of picture frames, broke down and bought a logan 45° cutter for matboard but for the 90° cuts i settled on 2nd from the right. mostly just learning how to draw grips in cad and make it as compact as possible. i'm sure i did it wrong but saved like $40

>>2990808
how's the threads? i was thinking of making something with some sort of wedge action to hold the paper; my printer is an old lulzbot and not that accurate or fast for printing a bunch of different sizes blocks

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>>2990804
oh, various dust adapters too, no sense in paying for them just make sure you do like a 1-2° draft

>>2990804
I'm not sure about the right material to use but I'm pretty sure I've seen printed feather guides for table saws / band saws
A center finder / marker is easy as well, if you could get tight gearing you could make one that expands / contracts

Does printed plastic would hold up well against router bearings for jigs? You could easily print a wider / better base for a router plate tho. I think most people (myself included) hate how tiny they are out of the box and replace them

>>2990819
i've had no problems with my corner jigs and router bearings but printing something large and flat like a new router plate warps too much for me on the bed. something to keep in mind i guess. one day i'll get a co2 laser and go crazy on some acrylic; my diode laser just can't do it. unfortunately buying a co2 laser just for that though isn't really justifiable

>>2990797
i did but i'm extremely slow

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>>2990797
>why nobody posts projects anymore?
Those that do projects are too busy doing them and won't waste their time posting on a a basque mongoloiding forum and those posting here don't have time to actually do anything.
But beside snark comments, it seems like 4Chan died a bit more, again, I also see this at other generals that I'm visiting, we don't seem to get any new recruits anymore and us old hags… err oldfags maybe nowadays have other things to do, besides posting here.
Speaking of those other things:
The wife needed a sharpener for her chalk, for sewing.
Lessons learned:
>Don't trust stupid "make this fantastic thing in ten easy steps!" guides from the internet, aimed at folks who never /diy/ anything, besides their one branch they do (sewing in this case). It's gonna look like ass if you follow the instructions and it won't be easy.
>putting like 70 razor blades on a threaded rod sucks and takes forever, but i was trusting the first point. Should have gotten a non-threaded rod and a thread cutter, always wanted to have one of those
>my miter saw needs adjusting and it wobbles
>I'm too stupid to remember if I have to add my blade thickness, when measuring my cuts
>my freehand routing sucks ass
But all in all:
7/10
wife's happy and the result looks much better than the shit from the instructios I started with and I learned a thing or two.

>>2990889
>people who post on board/thread X don't actually do activity X
a tale as old as 4chan itself
anyway good job, looks like some homemade capacitor ready to explode

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>>2990228 here
after some work and injury i managed to take the nailed piece of wood off. pic rel is what was under it. i looked up some rabbet planes online and they seem to have a butterfly nut on top, with the bolt probably holding the front
i don't wanna just glue something in there, it feels like a hackjob, but honestly have no idea how should i even start on this

>>2990998
if you want to learn you want to learn, but you can get a new one of these for like $35

>>2990998
Use glue, chisels, sand, and the blade you have shown. The wood isn't going to work itself.

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finished, it may need some soft rubber stuff against slipping, does anyone know a rubber tape that sticks to wood?

>>2990889
looks pretty good but also kinda dangerous

> if I have to add my blade thickness, when measuring my cuts
Not sure but I think you should always measure and mark the exact length you want, and only adjust when it’s on the saw.

>>2991100
if you used an oil based finish forget about tape ever sticking, you'll need to attach some physical way

>>2991100
Weather strip and finish nails or double stick would work in a pinch.

>>2991100
felt or leather + brass upholstery tacks, can even put a little strip of foam or whatever underneath as a cushion

First time poster in /wwg/, ex carpenter here. How do you guys join your picture frame corners? I am just going to join it (with glue) then drill wooden dowls through each corner and cut them off flush

Finally starting to build up my workshop with all the necessary furnishing equipment. Feels good man

>>2991109
>>2991113
>>2991130
thanks for the tips anons, ordered some leather and I’ll use the upholstery tacks

>>2991155
hell yeah what kind of leather did you get?

>>2991154
v nailer, staple, or spline.
I quoted a pro 700 for a 10' cyclorama and they beat around they bush. It wouldn't have been worth dragging that stuff up the stairs for less than 2 grand.

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>>2991023
>>2991070
allrighty then

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Listen here holes, you will be plugged.

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sturdy bedframe

so I'm going to build a bed frame something like this except I'm using big pieces of ply instead of slats
still have centre channel support
sturdier feet
glue instead of metal screws (it's never coming apart)

but I can't figure out how to attach the headboard in a way that is super sturdy? basically shit gets crazy in the bedroom and we can't have any flex or movement.no creaking whatsoever. sparing the details of my construction I was thinking of a frame of oak, ply panels in the middle, ply oak headboard(routed)

not new to woodwork but limited tools in this shop
circ saw, plunge router, drill, enough money to buy maybe one more skin? mitre saw is no longer a tool I have access to

>>2991524
I tried to do one of these, but all I needed was a jigsaw. We were going to use 5/16x4.5" Spax lags to drill the headboard into stud, but it gets really wild in our bedroom. Since we'd already mortised the headboard into the frame and cut out the baseboard, we just gorilla glued it flush to the drywall.

>>2991528
brick house and while a built in panel would look nice it's not feasible. maybe I should just not have a headboard but It gets cold in my area

>>2991530
You could construction adhesive the frame to the floor, but that's a yucky polyurethane blend. Command strips or double stick tape will also do a really good job.

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why do tail vises often have this gap when closed?

>>2991524
>wood
>no flex or movement

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Built a shed last summer, treated the cladding with sikagard wood preserver. This is the result, mold penetrating right through some boards. Is there any way to treat this? Can I just paint over it or do I need to replace the effected boards? If so should I just paint it next time?

>>2991649
is it insulated from the inside? is there some excessive humidity inside the shed, or are those perpetually damp or something?

>>2991665
No insulation, well ventilated. I am in England so we've had a decent amount of rainfall and only one side get's any sunlight for half the day due this being in a garden corner.

>>2991668
so this is the perma shaded one?
honestly i dunno. i have a shed i built 5+ years ago using osb board and there's zero rot even on the perma shaded parts. the stuff in your pic is something i always see on pallet wood that had plastic bags sit on it for some time, it always gets mold like this. wood too fresh/too damp?
i'd try to sand it down a bit first and wait a month to see what happens. wear a respirator

>>2991622
That's not that part you generally clamp stuff with. That extension is to hold the back frame bar.

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>>2991685
seems like a waste of space

>>2989752
if no mold but damp youre ok as long as dries soon.

>>2990316
kek.

>>2990807
>sanding block
cut a piece of plywood the width of belt sander belt and long enough to fit inside belt to keep it tight. Sand away.

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Dear diary, I am making a shelf for my daughter. Here is one of the brackets about to be traced and then sent to the scroll saw. I had google gemini generate a template based off of a picture, then I plugged the dimensions into microsoft publisher to print. This is my first project that isn't pine. It's poplar (pretty much pine) because I'm poor and dont trust myself not to fuck it up

>>2991807
looks pretty sick though. didn't know publisher was still around, and i'm a swe during the weekday!

>>2991808
Yea they're completely stopping it in October, not sure what Im going to use once it goes away, since youre a SWE (software engineer?), do you have any recommendations for similar programs? Or at least something that I can print things to scale?

>>2991811
not really unfortunately. after i make a few million dollars i plan on hiring a bunch of white americans to develop an open source fusion 360 alternative because fuck autodesk and freecad. until then it's fusion and gimp

>>2989629
Shellac is nice for indoor, lower contact applications. Think bookshelves, nightstands, stuff where you're not risking getting it wet or dirty regularly. Outdoor flooring is basically the worst case scenario for shellac.

>>2989752
I don't know if scammer, but many just pop their head in there without actually checking or some cases knowing what they're looking at. A roofing guy peeked in my atttic and said it had mold and mildew was leaking. It's an older house and there had been leaks over the hundred fourty or so years, but what he was seeing, other than some water stains, were spots like pitch, tar, and lime as much of the boards used for the roof sheathing where recycled material. I had been up there during rainstorm before he had went up there and didn't see any leaks. It did start leaking a few months later from a damage shingle, but i went up and replaced it.

Still need to get the roof done at some point.

>>2991811
If you actually need page layout stuff it's part of adobe and way better than publisher anyway but it's $$.

For office you got to pick somewhere between one note, word, or PowerPoint.

PowerPoint is pretty close. I'm almost surprised they kept.publisher as long as they did, it could have just been features in powerpoint

I have 6 sheets of very old and a bit worn in areas but still usable, 1/4” plywood I’d like to use for something but I’m drawing blanks despite need to do something with the following: two kayaks, a bunch of gardening/yard work equipment, a bunch of lawn chairs, summer related entertainment junk, some hammocks, and swimming floats. Please make my brain work and give me some ideas to unfuck my garage.

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>someone bought the thing that I wanted to buy to make stuff

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>>2990797
been fist deep in my car the past two weeks. i did cut a needlessly planed piece of cedar while i do my upper motor mount, so this post is /wwg/ appropriate

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I'm going to redo my shed this summer, I bought the property recently and it's always been a shitty crumbling eyesore

The plywood floors are cracking, I've already punched some holes straight through, and it's gotta go. The exterior panels are rotting in parts, and there are no interior walls leaving exposed insulation everywhere. You can see in the picture the setup the previous owners had where they had a step ladder as a permanent fixture to reach the loft above. The loft also makes it super awkward to stand under and my shelving is too tall to fit where it'd be useful. It has power with one light and one outlet, and its own fuse box.

I don't want to do a full teardown, just a refurbish. I want to raise the loft height, replace the floors, and replace the exterior walls. I also want to add plywood interior walls, some built in shelving and a pegboard wall full of hooks. I would add steps to reach the loft, probably short and steep to save space, plus a handrail. Do you think the loft joists look reusable? I imagine the insulation need replaced too, especially if it's exposed to the exterior in parts and probably has gotten wet before. There is a load bearing wall seen in the right of the photo which I would rather replace with a strong column or two since it divides the space in half for no good reason.

Any tips for me? Do inspectors care about small sheds? Is it worth the research to follow the code?

>>2992359
Anon I'm in a similar boat. Floors are good in mine but 4/4 walls are peeling back or rotting out. Whoever built it never raised the 2 side walls to the ceiling so bugs and shit gets in. I've never done woodwork but I have the tools and I'm sure I can get it into better stead than its in now.

>>2992359
after researching what it takes to do it "correctly" I need to:
>call the local permit office and have a conversation about the modifications
>apply for a permit online
>pay a fee based on square footage and have an inspection after construction
>submit a drawing showing the existing configuration and proposed modifications, including lumber type, sizing and specific hardware where required
>install a concrete footing beneath the frost layer under the new column
but for a building of this type no formal engineering is required so long as the joist span is below 12' and no dimension limits apply to the stairs either. I think I could feasibly do all this in like one hour and the only annoying part is the permit fee

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>>2992359
I went ahead and modeled the current shed layout, seriously wtf is this shit
which one of you did this

1/2

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>>2992593
2/2

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>>2992594
one more angle that really shows how fucked the loft is

>>2989558
I just got some chisels. I've got a good knife i can use until I get a sloyd and a spoon knife. Looking for a draw knife and a spoke shave. In the process of making a shave horse. Gonna start making spoons.

>>2990228
fix the crack, cut the nose off and wala, you have a double iron bullnose version for 5% the new price

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>>2992595
this is my design for the new layout. 2x6 joists with 2x4 blocking. replaced the step ladder with a ships ladder, didn't model the steps but it's 8 inch rise and 70 degree tilt. replaced the half wall with one post and a footing for it. once built I'll start to think about where I want shelving but I'll be happy with all the new head room on the ground floor. as is it's not all that useful for storage above or below

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what are all the little blackish spots on this beech workbench top?

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>>2992593
>>2992594
>>2992595
these images give me a headache

>>2992598
good on ya bud

>>2992975
character
bench probably got a bit moldy before being finished
even if the mold was killed it leaves stains

anyone know whats a good assortment of chissel sizes?

>>2992993
i get by with 1/4", 1/2", 3/4", and 1"

I always have one or two chisels that are going to do jobs I don't expect them to come back from.

>>2993055
that's what i keep a home depot stanley set for

>>2992993
i get by with 8mm, 12mm, 18mm and 24mm

>>2993121
ended up buying a set, similar sizes to >>2992999
6,10,12,16,20,26
why? 6 for the price of 4,5 is hard to argue with

>>2993140
nice, it's great for mortising. the easy part is over!

>>2993064
I'll note that you can get DeWalt chisels there for only a bit more ($10-11 ea vs $5)that have Sheffield-made blades and metal pommel strike caps. Still a massive bargain compared to $50+ per tools like Narex or Two Cherries.

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I want to build a tiki bar. What type of wood is the large round pieces in this picture? Is this something I can get at a lumber yard or is it special order/milled.

>>2993192
eh, they're the beater set. if i upgrade i won't want to use them for car and yard work

>>2993192
>$50+ per tools like Narex or Two Cherries.
Jesus christ the tarrifs raped you hard. I bought mhg at 13€ per piece

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>>2993239

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>>2993207
some lumber stores carry round post but wouldn't be surprised either way
look up a pole lathe, you need one sawhorse a shaft and a rope. you can make any square post round

>>2993244
Depends on which line you're looking at, too. A set of five Richters in a nice wood box is $250, while four loose PROFI are $70, both at Woodcraft.

>>2993256
>250$
Insanity, these are just generic CV steel

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anyone here actually using a saw till? what design do you like / hate
seems like a quick project that will help me declutter

How often should you change out/sharpen your table saw? I have a 10" from over a decade ago, I've only recently started to really doing wood working and I'm still using the original saw.

>>2993537
When I need very clean cuts or if I'm ripping a lot. Finish blades cut slower and make more dust. Really thin veneers will chatter unless you cater to them. Sometimes I just don't want to sand dull burn marks off of hardwood. Having to push harder when feeding material into a dull saw is also a factor because it's harder on the motor and less safe.

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>>2993508
I hang them by the handles on a length of thick wooden dowel. Kind of like this but longer dowels and much less of a angle on the dowel. I have a shitton of hand saws though. Anytime I see a Disston in decent shape going for cheap (<$5) I buy it. I have a lot of duplicates so it makes it easier to stack up the different types.

>>2993537
Switch blades to the appropriate blade for the task. Ripping blades are usually 24 tooth, crosscut are 60-80. The standard blades that come with most saws are around 40-something tooth and are really meant for general construction use.

Cleaning is needed more often than sharpening, as pitch can build up. There are specialized kits for it, but all you really need is a Home Depot style 5 gal bucket's lid, simple green, and a decent brush.

Get it sharpened when even with cleaning cuts feel slower and worse than they should, especially if you're getting burning.

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>>2993537
i switched from simple green to a purpose blade cleaner. simple green was fine but it does strip off oil so you'll need to lube after. trend's stuff cuts through pitch well and lubricates in one go. get a bucket lid and a roll of cheap toothbrushes. generally every 2 months or whenever i notice pitch building up on a bit or blade

>>2993550
as of now i hang them on nails but that is ass for long ones or pistol grips

>>2993247
no need to fuck with a complicated premodern tool that you also have to build when you can just use a planer and round a beam without issue.

are castle joints a meme in terms of durability? I hear they're prone to exploding? what should I use instead to build a bed frame

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I want to build a bed frame that I can add a headboard & side-tables to, starting with the platform itself. But I'm not used to projects this big and I don't want to waste money on costly mistakes along the way.
Any tips/opinions on my design?

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>>2993834

>>2993835
this looks like it could withstand a nuclear blast
in other words, my type of design

>>2993835
you could probably do without 50% of the wood (slats and legs) unless youre 600 lbs

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>>2993825
>what should I use instead to build a bed frame
antiques used metal hooks for propably almost a century, thats also how mine was constructed from the local cabinet maker. These hooks are apparently still sold new and salvaged.
If youre not a meme purist this is propably the way to go, bullet proof and easily taken apart for transport

i made a few simple cutting boards and now i'm honestly terrified when i think about selling them.
interacting with a customer is the last thing i wanna do. knowing my luck every single cutting board is gonna warp or something and everyone's gonna complain.

>>2993834
Is that 12" tall? I'd just stack 16 sheets of decking and staple it all together. It will be sturdier.

>>2993825
They're stronger than most perfectly fine bed joints, where did you hear that they "explode? It's two full thickness boards cross-jointed inside a post.

>>2993859
See if you can find a store that sells consignment products.

>>2993834
Lose 2 purple supports, slats should only be supported on the sides and center on a 2p so that they can bend and make the bed feel softer, like this it would be like a mattress on the floor. They look very thick too, and too many.

You can save 50 metal brackets by making the green/blue supports longer and put them inside the brown/purple ones, it’ll be stronger too, and remove about 6 of them

Finally I would say the mattress should go deeper to prevent it from moving around

>>2993835
Why are there so many legs? The inside ones will break your back and the outside ones all add chances your bed will be unstable

>>2993835
are you 700 pound by chance

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I'm getting a workbench later this week, please clap

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>>2993962
>getting a workbench
If it ain't 'building a workbench', it ain't worth mentioning.

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>>2993973
I'm incompetent and in this shithole buying 2nd hand is cheaper than buying the wood and I needed the dopamine from spending money. Please respect my decision.

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new planter, currently in the process of getting the 6 coats of tung oil she needs

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>>2993978
MORE
MORE PLANTERS

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>>2993979

>>2993977
>Paul Timberman MadTV sketch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ttgkEh7k2g

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Anons; help me out here. I'm already checking out the books (and some others, and even a couple videos relevant to the end goal) but I'd rather ask people with experience.

I've got experience with tools and heavy ones too; I worked in construction all through out my teenage years and into my twenties so I'm not a novice to /diy/, but I've never worked with wood before.

I'd like to make something like this with the caveat that it's meant to be kinda heavy duty but also look semi decent. is it doable with rented equipment?

I'm thinking of buying the boards already sized and cleaned; then making the adjustments necessary with a saw and just getting premade legs similar to what the picture has.

The thing is that it has to be solid enough for my real crafting experience (sewing + leatherworking) but also don't look like a full on work table. Am I hopeless and have to compromise on looks? Never done any woodworking but I know about building techniques so it shouldn't be hard to transfer skills, but it's the aesthetics what stumps me.

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>>2994011
I'm thinking of a sturdier hardwood rather than pine or similar; with a simple stain to keep the aesthetics without having to either work too hard or compromise the firmness.

That said, what I'm having doubts with is... Would the premade legs work fine or are there any specific type you'd recommend?

The size is also the issue; I can't find any big enough for the project I have in mind so I'd have to join them, I have some basic conncepts already and I've been looking around, I can rent a biscuit joiner and that should help assemble a bunch of smaller sized planks into a solid single surface. Am I wrong there?

Am I ignoring some crucial step? Any advice and bitching at me is more than welcome.

>>2994011
Honestly that's pretty easy, put boards along the walls screwed into the studs, set the panels on top, then use a fastener like a 90 degree bracket or figure 8s and you wont even need the legs. If you're using a couple cabinets like that in the middle it'll be fully supported.

>>2994012
Building a panel is a pretty basic task, but building it straight and flat takes practice, space, and a lot of clamps. Getting it perfect means really precise work with a planer and a table saw at minimum before assembling. Building a really big panel might be a case where everything factored in you might just want to custom order it from a shop that can handle that size, or order some butcher block that's the size you want from Home Depot/Menards/Lowes etc., and cut the specific size you need from there.

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>>2994023
The issue with the first one is that it has to be thicker than that and I do a lot of hammering and cutting things so I think a softer wood wouldn't do well, right? Plus I'm a bit scared of the gaps under the board with all the hammering and shit.

Again, totally newfag so I might be worrying about the wrong things.

As for the panel... I saw some videos and stuff, figured it should just take getting some boards, putting them together with the biscuit joiner, glue and clamps and letting them rest until stuck then sanding the top.

Is it too hard for a novice? I might also be overestimating my own skills and if you say it's hard it might be. Don't wanna spend time, money and effort for it to be unusable since it is for something that I WILL be using.

>>2994028
What do you plan to do? Why are you planning to use a desk as a workbench?

The boards need to be flat and square and evenly thicknessed or it's going to be a lot of work truing it up after it's together. Doing that requires equipment that's going to be a bigger investment, at least a good table saw and planer. And doing it with hand tools can cost just as much.

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>>2994034
Hard to really explain but part of the design process means I work with my computer, printer & other tech next to the sewing machines & dyes, hammering, etc.

Right now I use two different sized tables but even that gets in the way a bit; so I'd like to make one long, sturdy desk so I can both do the design work and the actual work side by side without having to move around too much and making the most use possible of my working area.

The lumber I'm buying my wood from offers free planning, I thought thats what helps make them flat and square so I was thinking of using that...

>>2993140
i raped a sharpal diamond plate flattening just 6 of these, man diamond is really trash

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>>2994188
Buy a new diamond plate to flatten your current plate. Then buy another to flatten the new diamond plate when that becomes uneven.

>>2994196
i just wish there was something 120 grid that would stay flat and sharp. How do botique makers polish their shit up while still making a profit

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>>2994322
Why are you using such an aggressive grit for a stone? Use a sanding belt for that stuff and use stones for the higher grit passes.

>>2994327
every new tool ive ever bought had the backside ground to ~60 grit on a large rotary grinder, propably freehand and never dressed, all wonky and wavy. why should i torment myself not starting with the lowest grit available?
Belt grinder for 'preping the back seems like a recipe for disaster, i mean machine grinding is the reason all these backs come shit out of the factory with rounded sections and hollows/hills all over

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>>2994332
>every new tool ive ever bought
Which is why I posted an American Made Rockwell Delta sander from the 1960s. I have one. They are solid little machines. If you really want to do it right you get picture related. When the world ends the only things left will be cockroaches, politicians, and American made shop tools.

Meanwhile, I don't buy shitty chisels. My 'cheap' chisels are a couple of sets of Stanley No. 80s that I have put together from yard sales and such. There are millions of them out there and they are time tested. My 'expensive' chisels are pieced together sets of wooden handled, socketed chisels. Some of them were hand forged. They outlasted their original owners and will likely outlast me.

>>2994322
https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/collections/tormek/products/tormek-t8

>>2994332
>why
so you don't fuck up stones

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>wooden drawer has a lot of friction
>hammered the nails that were sticking out slightly
>applied paraffin to the slides and glued up a crack
>smooth as butter now

anons i might come into a possesion of old parquet flooring. smmall wood pieces, approx 2cmx10cm, about 1cm thick. i thought about making a table out of them, by gluing the pieces onto a plywood base. does this sound like a good/reasonable idea?
i'm also wondering how should i seal/protect it from moisture. some dude threw a very wet rag on the parquet and the next day the part under the rag has buckled, and i'd rather not have the table buckle or something just because someone spilled a drink on it

>>2994493
Why not glue them to eachother? You do have 150 clamps, right?

tips for building a router table? basically a jig for a corded router that I can bolt in and use as a table?

>>2994538
- get a router table insert to screw your router base in to
- put the biggest paddle switch you can find on the front of the table so you can turn it off with your hip

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>>2994538
same anon as >>2994584, finally home. this is in my mind the bare minimum. i rarely use the fence, when i have a project that needs it i'll upgrade it, but generally my routing is all bearing guided and dust collection attaches to the fence. can't stress enough a quick way to turn the router off when your hands are full, super useful just being able to bump it

how can I be accurate with a japanese saw? I find my cuts always go off at weird angles

>>2994720
It cuts on the pull stroke, don't put force on pushing it forward.

>>2994822
so I need to be a lot lighter and not push down?

I have a mortise thats 1 3/16 tall and a tenon thats 1 1/8. Should I cut the mortise to 1 1/4 and fill it with 1/16 boards on both sides or should I just fill it with plastic wood?

>>2994825
Yep, let the tool do the work.

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Please forgive the krita markup image, idk how to do computer woodwork.

So i can do most of this frame with just mortis + tenon, and the middle leg as a castle joint, but how would i go about adding 6 legs around the frame, doing so in such a way that theyre recessed into the inner frame?

>>2994850
Put them inside the frame and screw them in?? Use a fancy butt joint with it.

>>2994901
ah I don't want to use screws for this bed. i think I'm going to do a bridle joint

>>2993835
>>2993834
this is some ooga booga shit

are you supposed to get a new bed every 10 years

>>2995031
If you're a fatass and 25 posts fail, you gotta do

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>tfw woodworm infestation
HANZ

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>>2995360
>fish hate this one simple trick!

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>>2995370
>worms
they're not worms but (beetle) larvae, fuck people that name things but fuck woodworms first

>>2989618
linseed oil

>>2989618
Thompsons water seal or transparent deck stain

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does anyone notice a difference with these things? got a shop vac with bag, filter, sock, + cyclone stage for dust collection but getting tired of a layer of dust still being everywhere in my garage. are these helpful or just a gimmick?

>>2995636
I have this exact model.
Unheated garage, so there is no airflow. Whenever I cut wood the whole garage is filled with slowly moving sawdust you can see in the air. I have shopvacs but no specialty dust collector.

The filter DOES clear the air after a while, and my filter gets completely covered in sawdust, so I clean it every few months.
My garage still gets layers of dust all over shit though.

It clearly pulls shit out of the air, but its hard to really quantify how much its pulling out vs out much just settles on stuff. It seems to move an ok amount of air though.

Its hard to decide whether to recommend it or not

>>2995636
I've been on remodel outfits that run name brand air units like these. I'm sure they're OK at removing some ambient dust, but getting heavy into demo, cutting, or sanding needs to be managed with aggressive shop vac or units with integrated dust control.

>>2995679
Even in a woodworking shop you should have a combo of direct dust extraction, ideally a big fixed unit for your big tools, an air filter to get any loose fines in the air, and then a smaller unit like a shop vac or portable extractor for small tools like your sander.

>>2995685
The last shop hired idiots to push brooms around cnc, tables, and to shovel out the extractor.

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>>2995636
Also contemplating if I should get one, that layer of dust everywhere also grinds my gears. Plus, it ain’t really healthy.
Currently sanding a lot of shit and even with a dust collector hooked up to my sander I still get dust everywhere, plus I gotta do a lot of hand sanding. Even vacuuming my work piece (and floor and deskt around it) every 20 minutes doesn’t really matter.
Currently running some Xiaomi living room filter I got sitting around with a fan blowing air from my workbench towards it but that also doesn’t seem to make a noticeable difference even though the thing does collect dust (pic related).

What backsaws do ya all use? Length, depth and tpi

>>2996268
idk but just make sure the teeth aren't hardened and the tpi isn't so high that you can't really sharpen it

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For those who have made display cabinets, what's it like working with the glass for them? i dont want to be cutting it myself so ill probably contact a glazier, but essentually im going to build something like this but with clear glass

>>2996417
hundrets of ebay shops offer glass and mirrors cut to size for next to nothing. For a bit more they even chamfer the edge, so you dont have to sand it

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>>2995360
I'm still upset, fuck these motherfuckers

really basic question, but what's the best way to get a smooth finish on a sheet of plywood?

>>2997265
It should already be sanded from the factory. The questions would be have you applied the finish and how smooth are you looking for. 120 or 220 grit is about where I'd expect a veneer ply to start. Those are also grits that accept finishes well because the higher polishing grits begin to prevent absorption.

Follow the finish of your choice's coats and prep between each coat. Then go over it with fine sanding or buffing to your desired smoothness.

I guess the only difference being 32 square feet of surface area. If you have a 4 ft drum sander, great. But the point of buying veneer ply is to already be at relative smoothness not requiring a planer.

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/wwg/, what are your opinions on utilizing a sit stand desk for a work bench? I need to replace my current one with a stronger frame (the desktop is a bit too heavy for it) and I would have the old frame/legs left over. Or is it ill advised to use that for something you'd be banging/hammering on?
>>2995360
Carpenter bee infestation here. I need to build a little roof for a smoker/oven I have and I'm worried that they're going to make that their home.

>>2997682
instead of a sit stand desk get a stand desk and a taller chair
sit stand desk is fucking retarded lol

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>>2989558
whats quatersawn oak going for these days?
snagged this shit on a demo and dont butcher wood so its going for sale
all clear 3/4 solid not veneered shame some asshole chopped it up to get it out

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>>2997745
Using them as intended is great, I regularly switch between sitting and standing at this desk.

>>2997682
There are purpose-made adjustable height workbenches, though the heavy duty ones are bolted at whatever height you set them to.

>>2997745
>>2997777
Sounds like repurposing my current desk legs is not going to be a smart idea. I'll have to figure out what to do with them elsewhere. Thanks anons.

>>2995702
Are you using a real dust collection unit and a sander designed to work with dust collection and sandpaper that has holes in it for dust collection?

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>>2995636
>>2995655
Get a real dust extractor and get tools compatible with it. Only tool that will always have poor dust collection is the miter saw.

>>2996268
Veritas dovetail saw 14tpi 10” ish: does everything well and easy to sharpen but a bit shallow

Razorsaw gyokucho 17 tpi 7” because super thin and cheap jap saws are really good value for money.

>>2997682
If it’s electric I think you’ll bust the motors pretty quickly. Hand crank might work but also wear faster and be less rigid than you might want

>>2997745
Sitting on a high chair all the time with legs straight down is bad for your veins m8

>>2997871
Drafting chairs fix that.

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>>2997862
lmao

>>2997862
>Only tool that will always have poor dust collection is the miter saw.
Which is why it's common to build a box around it or attach a dust hood to the back.

>>2997880
They work great, I have two of them.

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first time building anything other than shelves in a closet--
12' x 32" deep workbench. it was supposed to be 36" tall, but I measured from the bottom stud instead of the floor, so it's 37". fucked up the notches using the circular saw + reciprocating saw. a chisel seemed to work better for some of them. also, the miter cuts for the braces are all over the places and most are not flat. but the bench is level, sturdy and stable
lessons learned:
>use a saw horse, clamps, and sacrificial wood to stabilize cuts, especially when ripping plywood
>torx screws are superior in every way to philips
>get a jigsaw
>get a miter saw
>git gud at circular saw

>>2997861
>Are you using a real dust collection unit
Yeah
>and a sander designed to work with dust collection and sandpaper that has holes in it for dust collection?
Of course I do.
However, the dust collector sucks (or well, it doesn't, it's a cheap-ish Starmix (normally know for their pro-tier stuff, next to Nilfisk, which AFAIK makes this>>2997862 one) M-class one from their diy-line and it's constantly clogged. I'm now running it with a double cyclone, which alleviates that issue, so that's not the culprit (besides the fact that the filter might be shot and not M-class anymore).
The sander is a Festool Rotex90 in detail sander mode, and this thing has rather bad dust collection. Way too small diameters of everything, the dust collector starts complaining of lacking airflow, when I go full power. But even when I'm doing shit with my 150mm sander and mirca mesh, I still get that characteristic dust everywhere.
I'm not saying you can skip the dust extractor, but "dust free" sanding is a myth.

>>2997925
It is made by nilfisk, I get really good results with it using a mirka sander. If you are using festool, go for the festool dust collector. You will never be 100% dust free, but you could probably reduce the dust by half by running a true dust extractor. When I remove the bag from my unit, the dust is compacted to the point it feels solid.

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I got a Japanese knife with a 'mono ebony handle'
The seller provides no information about it but it has a shine to it with grooves on the wood and under a jeweler's loupe the wood seemed to have an extremely fine texture to it so I don't know if it has a lacquer on it
Any ideas? Do I need to use mineral oil?

>>2998004
It will have a finish, but that doesn't mean you can't clean, recoat, or wax. Unfinished would be very porous and prone to absorbing foodstuff.

I doubt mineral will have much penetration. Just polish with bees or carnauba wax. My biggest issue with better high carbon knives is getting them very dry after cleaning.

>>2997871
I've assembled dozens of those things. I can't speak on the maximum load the motor can support, but the axle and left-right sides are geared together with three plastic teeth and a set screw. They're probably lifting 30lbs stock, so they move very slowly.

>>2997899
props for actually getting into it and making something, nice work

went to ask actual timber shop yesterday and honestly im surprised at how cheap good wood is compared to going to bunnings

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>>2998401
meanwhile i still have no interest on >>2997772 at $75 for the lot and it feels like its doomed to become firewood

>>2998405
i wouldn't pay more than $15 for that

>>2997772
> solid not veneered
You sure? Looks like any other veneer on particle board.
>>2998405
Did you add any good pics? Because your pic you posted here looks like ass.

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>>2998431
ya it was solid. out of a 120 yr old schoolhouse
i said fuck it and sawed it up for firewood this morning

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>>2998431
>Did you add any good pics? Because your pic you posted here looks like ass.

What should I look for if I want to design my own furniture, and I want it to be a mix of minimal/clean brutalism and Sashimono?

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>>2997942
> You will never be 100% dust free, but you could probably reduce the dust by half by running a true dust extractor.
In this particular setup I guess the extractor isn’t the problem. It sucks out more air (and thus dust) than the sander can deliver. The port itself is quite small (compared to the diameter of the hose, which should be a standard size that Festool also has, and also smaller than on my old Bosch, Gardena coupling for size) but the main issue is that I can get a lot of stuff through the tiny channels in the louver attachment.

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>>2998540
That said, I definitely want to upgrade my shitty dust extractor and wouldn’t mind Festool, but WTF? Why is that one so cheap? Even the f it’s not on (((sale))), it’s sub 500€, which is cheaper than the sander it’d hook up to.
Ok, it’s not an M-class (which I want, and the cheapest M-class is more expensive), but still, that’s suspiciously cheap for Festool-anything. Where’s the catch?

Hey lads. I’m a novice at woodworking, but I just wanted to say that I’m reflooring my attic and it is EXTREMELY fun. Good hobby you guys have here

>>2998401
Yeah, home stores will always be expensive. S4S stuff from specialty suppliers will be pricy, but usually worth it. If you have the equipment to mill rough-sawn, that's where you'll really see savings, though.

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I want to DIY something along these lines but with both wooden panels and wire trays/dividers. Where could I find something appropriate to use for the wire sections though? Or would I be better off just making the entire thing out of wood?

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I found a dresser on the side of the street that is only missing a top. I bought particle board and cut it to size, and bought some L shaped corner brackets to attach the particle board top to the rest of it

My question is related to painting the board. Can I just spray this shit with a paint/primer and paint it black and call it a day? Or do I need to put some kind of finish on top of that?
It will stay in my garage and hold craft supplies for making dioramas and car detailing chemicals so it doesnt have to be the prettiest thing ever.
Alternatively can I attach a wood veneer using only wood glue? I dont have a vacuum press or anything and all the videos I see show how to attach veneers using contact cement which I dont have on hand

>>2998795
>It will stay in my garage and hold craft supplies for making dioramas and car detailing chemicals so it doesnt have to be the prettiest thing ever.
in that case it doesn't have to be finished at all. i have shelves made from osb that are 10 years old and they're just there.
technically, particle board should be just a "base", with some veneer or other on top, but if you paint it then it'll hold up like any other paint. if you're gonna use it often and abuse it i'd put some protective finish on top or maybe just use up some lacquer i had laying around.
>Alternatively can I attach a wood veneer using only wood glue?
i don't see why not
https://youtu.be/TxUKc4JWBaI

>>2998513 again. I found this, and I thought you guys might find it useful:

>Traditional Japanese Wood Joinery and its Modern Translations
https://www.politesi.polimi.it/retrieve/7ed32061-3dad-417c-a0f5-94bf22951571/273747-FELIX-Horace.pdf

Sorry for having no photo but

I made a box by taking a 1.5” board and milling out a 3/4” deep rectangle from the center. But the router leaves marks at the bottom. The rectangle about 4”x5” so I have no sander or plane that would fit in there to smoothen the bottom of the ‘well’. How would one do that?

Only idea I have now is glue in a piece of veneer but it would be ugly

>>2998816
Put sand paper disk at the end of a dremel or use a hole saw to make a pad for your drill. Veneer or felt would be fine.

>>2998795
>just spray chipboard
chalk paint it you little upcycler

are your craigslist/facebook markets filled with doofuses who think they can sell their backyard milled trash for the same or more than what kiln dry actual warehouse vendors sell for?

its fucking insane where I live
people are literally on crack

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>>2999107
it goes both ways

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>>2999107
here's a guy selling siberian elm for $45/bdft. no clue what the going rate actually should be, but looks like trash

>>2998545
Its 15l volume

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lol

>>2999107
it's insane that i don't get to chainsaw mill the trees that fall on my property

>>2999204
I could see paying $200 for that if it was Walnut.

>>2999204
epoxy table maker youtubers really did a number on waste product prices

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>>2999266
pepperidge farm remembers when knotholes were a defect and clear straightgrain was the most desirable trait

>>2989558
Has anyone ever been banned from woodworking by a judge for their lumber-related crimes?
What's the most evil thing you could do in the wood world?

>>2999193
Not a big deal when you’re running a cyclone stage before the actual extractor.

>>2999274
Painting antique furniture made from woods that cant be traded anymore, I guess

>>2999118
lol
looking for free money
i like money

>>2999274
endangered species epoxy river table

>>2999204
mills love this one simple trick

>>2999358
if all edges are encased in plastic slop, is it really "live edge"?

>>2999358
>5000$ in resin
More thsn my entire tool hord, jesus christ

>>2989558
Can you access the memories of the tree by working the wood with hand tools? I have heard that there are woodworkers who can "listen to the wood" to predict defects and know what the conditions for that tree over the years were like. How do you get these skills? Do you just have to study wood for a long ass time and handle it often?

>>2999358
>Split the slab to have straight edges on the outside and the live edge forming a river you fill with epoxy that emphasizes the natural beauty of the wood
or
>Create an absolutely asinine, lazy table that's mostly epoxy with a single slab just there in the middle and just doesn't fit in any decor

>>2999393
but bro he used 50 gallons of epoxy

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First time doing anything related to circuitry/electricity. I needed a light switch for my string of lights and ain't no way I'm cutting into my brick wall. Next step(s) will be making some cool pyrography and staining/varnishing.

>>2999402
Would recommend flipping it so the outlet isn't facing up. Like if water drips on it, it it will fall down in the outlet and stick. If you flip it the water wpuld just hit some wood

>>2999397
I mean, if somebody commissioned me to make that table exactly like that, sure, why not. But that wouldn't go in my portfolio, and I sure as hell wouldn't try to sell it blind like that.

>>2999408
That's a very good point, thank you. I'll try my best to ignore it so I don't start this project over, lmao.

>>2999358
That's a nice piece of lumber entombed in a blue hell.

>>2999423
nta but I hate that they picked blue, all colours would look bad but blue is the worst choice

>>2999426
High end woodwork is somewhere between a craft and an art. I think they could spot fill the voids with black. That's the extent epoxy should be used here. Then of course cut the slab into a table rather than leaving it, as is, the way it was ripped from the mill.

It's a complete waste of expensive materials on someone with no vision or creativity.

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How should I go about designing trusses?
It's for a car port. I know the weight of the roof. I also would like to put an engine hoist in/on the trusses.

Do I just make a big force diagram and see if each piece of wood can withstand the forces (accounting for a safety factor)?

>>2999589
Add a steel beam for the hoist.

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wow
what a deal

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>>2999589
>How should I go about designing trusses?

>>2999672
Hey man, at least that left one has a nice crack it in. You could probably sperate it by hand like splitting a pair of chopsticks. Saves on cutting time and then you'd have a nice 2x5 and 2x3!

>>2999711
>>2999672
3 words: river table

>>2999702
To be fair, he's asking a civil engineering question in a woodworking thread. I gave a flippant answer that would suffice, but is expensive. A beam would include beam pockets and footings. I'm certain most truss cords cannot carry an engine at center span. Alternatively, they can add posts to block in an above header. This would include cutting in footings under said posts to avoid cracking the slab.

If you want numbers crunched, permits, and someone happy to hold your hand and wallet then call a planning department. We only buff poly and epoxy to 2000 grit in these threads.

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>>2999789
>he's asking a civil engineering question in a woodworking thread
I'm asking about wooden trusses. Thus working wood.
>I'm certain most truss cords cannot carry an engine at center span
As long as that member of the truss can support the weight of an engine and winch (which is not more than half a ton) you can calculate the truss as having that load split and applied at the two ends of that member.
>If you want numbers crunched, permits, and someone happy to hold your hand and wallet then call a planning department.
I don't need any of this. I never provided numbers because I don't want any else running them.

I just want to know what good general practice is for calculating wooden trusses. I can calculate the weight of my roof (total and per square foot). I know perfectly well how to make force diagrams and analyze tension and compression. I just would like to know how designing a wooden truss is typically done and what I need to look out for.

>>2999817
You've already done all the science. The only thing unclear here is why you're being such a faggot.

Why don't you give us the loading data for riftsawn vs flatsawn truss construction and plywood vs metal gussets. Give us acceptable web and cord dimensions. Tell us the additional snow load and how to adjust all this for a hip or valley above your new diy garage shop.

We're ready to learn bro.

I have never made a truss before, all I want to know is what needs consideration when designing it.

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>>2999891
know which beams will be in tension and which will be in compression. strengthen accordingly

you can focus on any joint between your beams, look at the forces applied externally and everything should cancel out in all directions internally. use that to figure out the force in each. the math isn't hard if you know basic trig