[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / r / s / t / u / v / vg / vr / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k] [s4s] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / asp / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / wsg / wsr / x] [Settings] [Home]
Settings Home
/diy/ - Do It Yourself

[Advertise on 4chan]

4chan Pass users can bypass this verification. [Learn More] [Login]
  • Please read the Rules and FAQ before posting.

05/08/16Janitor acceptance emails will be sent out over the coming weeks. Make sure to check your spam box!
04/28/16New trial board added: /qst/ - Quests
12/20/15New trial board added: /wsr/ - Worksafe Requests
[Hide] [Show All]

Janitor acceptance emails will be sent out over the coming weeks. Make sure to check your spam box!

[Catalog] [Archive]

File: diy.jpg (657 KB, 800x600)
657 KB
657 KB JPG
Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

What are the general calculations for building a fence? I need to figure out how much material I need for around 60-70 feet of fencing.
6 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
The problem with a local lumber yard is that you can't just Google prices there, at least in my area. When I was planning my fence I called a couple and the prices were actually higher than the box stores. Ten years ago you were right, the lumber yards had lower prices, better products, and delivered free. Even brought me a free nail apron with the delivery! Not any more.

And those pre-built sections come apart in less than two years. I HATE them.

Divide total length of your fence by the width of the fence board to get the number of boards you need. Round up fractions. Multiply the number of boards by 4 to get the number of nails you need for nailing the boards. Multiply each 2x4 by 6 to get the number of nails you need for nailing the 2x4's.

Divide total length of your fence by the length of 2x4's you want to use and add 1 to get the number of fence posts required. Multiply the previous result (before adding 1) by 2 to get the number of 2x4's required.

Use 1-3 bags of concrete for each fence post.
OP you're going to need about 60-70 feet
Posts every eight feet. If you want 6 ft tall fence, put two ft in the ground for the posts, so 8 ft posts. 9 posts total. Don't skimp, 3x3 at least to support the weight.
x2-3 bags of 60LBs of concrete per hole. 27 bags depends how wide you make your post holes.
Top and bottom rails, 10 ft just in case for problems that will arise, so x14.
Wood pickets, depends how wide you want, that will change quantity.
Best advice I can tell you, make sure everything from posts to panels is fucking level. You'll have a shitty looking fence and weak fence that will topple over in a year or two. Make sure your fence line is fucking straight, true.

The biggest curve balls coming your way are:
Solid rock/ existing concrete where posts need to go and inclines/declines in terrain. No one takes them into consideration

Good luck, building fence aren't as easy as people assume.
its cheaper to buy premade fence sections

File: DSC01224.jpg (364 KB, 1400x1021)
364 KB
364 KB JPG
Hey /diy/, I'm about to make a clay pot dedicated to 4chan out of pure dirt. I've been clearing it out of grass, sticks, rocks, etc. I haven't made one since high school so imma bit rusty. Are their any dos and don'ts along with protips that you can provide.
P.S Imma post the whole process on this thread.
250 replies and 83 images omitted. Click here to view.
Oh I forgot to add, I will keep posting under the same name PolyFez form here and to the end. Again, stay awesome 4chan.
Totally irrelavant to the nazi pot, but eh.. sauce?? Or is that OC,i oc notify me where i can find more
Swastika is thousands of years old.
Can someone link me a guide on how to do this? I get the gist of it with this thread, but I was reading somewhere that certain clay will let off some chemicals while in the fire.

What is the easiest way to start brewing alcohol? Doesn't matter the type, beer wine cider, anything. Just something that doesn't taste like shit and gets me drunk. I don't have enough room for a still or anything, I need something cheap and easy.
297 replies and 31 images omitted. Click here to view.
>there are numerous orchards nearby,
Not near me.

>and one that annually makes regular cider for selling locally, and as far as I know all the apples they grow are eating apples

>(would that be good for hard cider? I don't see why not, especially if bought fresh at the farm)
Using dessert apples to make cider is like using bread yeast to make beer.

>if people don't want to eat a particular kind, they won't be able sell them, naturally they won't waste time growing them when there are other crops in high demand
Plenty of apple cultivars that aren't intended to be consumed raw are currently grown, but they're almost impossible to find at retail (assuming that the entire harvest isn't spoken for already) because there's no market for them outside of companies producing apple-derived goods - which was why I asked about sourcing in my post. It's not like I'm going to walk into Safeway and find them selling heirloom cider cultivars by the bushel.
Google Joe's ancient orange mead. You'll be the most popular kid in high school.
>Using dessert apples to make cider is like using bread yeast to make beer.
so people who were regularly making hard cider for drinking at home 100+ years ago always had access to the most specific selection of apples that added to a perfect scientific formulation for cider?

I don't think so....I think they weren't so picky and used whatever they could grow or get cheap enough
>so people who were regularly making hard cider for drinking at home 100+ years ago always had access to the most specific selection of apples that added to a perfect scientific formulation for cider?

No, but they could usually get their hands on some quantity of cider apples and/or cider apple juice. Cider was much more popular than beer in the US until prohibition and most orchards grew many different kinds of apples.
there are many different kinds still being grown, just because there aren't specific varieties being sold at grocery stores or grown locally doesn't mean the ones they do have won't make good hard cider

what markup would be worth paying to have a specialty orchard ship some, or going well out of the way to find a place that would sell direct to consumers?

File: Oxygas_welding_station.jpg (516 KB, 2362x2362)
516 KB
516 KB JPG
I want to get into gas welding. Any anons can recommend some equipment? From what I've read good low pressure regulators are important. The options for torches and tips is a little overwhelming doe. I'm mainly wanting aluminum and steel cut & weld capabilities.
76 replies and 8 images omitted. Click here to view.
Canada. All are shit cost double and our dollar is only worth 72ยข
I'm Canadian and I can guarantee that you can find an acceptable MIG welder for way less than a grand.
Or if you want to poorfag it out to the max just get a stick welder.
Go here and read. All your questions and more will be covered in their forums. (I have over 4,000 posts over several years, mostly on equipment, regulator and torch repair.)


OA welding and brazing are highly capable and useful processes. You can weld aluminum as well as steel.

No matter what process you use, you have to PRACTICE long and hard and systematically to get good. Welding is the answer to the question of what specific metal you want to join. Some inspirational welding and fab porn below.

I suggest you begin with stick welding, then learn MIG (and don't start with a shitty flux core only machine) then TIG. You will want an OA outfit anyway since they are so versatile for heating and cutting, and welding tips are cheap hence no reason not to try OA welding too.

SRSLY, just go to weldingweb, the Miller forums (great site with training vidyas too), the Hobart forums (kinda quiet) and study your ass off. Welding is something every mechanic or gearhead or techie should learn.

If you can take a formal course at a local CC or trade school it's totally worth it. If not, you can get detailed advice on all aspects of welding training.

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Try cheaper that oxy.
>Hf 80 amp inverter
>1/16 aluminum rods
All this for 150
Except this was originally a
>"hey /diy/ tell me about oxy/fuel welding"
thread, not a
> "Hey /diy/ I don't know shit about welding and I want to get into this expensive hobby as cheap as possible"

Post things you made!

Made this paver stone.
115 replies and 56 images omitted. Click here to view.
what do you do with them?
do you put them on and walk with a phone before your eyes?
What is this shit even
I am so jealous. I'm saving the image and will make sure not to forget the concept if I have a chance to recreate it. Could you share bits on how you created it? I'm a complete lurker and amateur.
File: IMG_20160530_204711723.jpg (3.48 MB, 4320x2432)
3.48 MB
3.48 MB JPG
It's honestly not bad, I have a tiny apartment in new England with two kids. Luckily the landlord owns his own construction company and when told him my idea of making a little shop in my basement storage he was impressed with the idea. He comes to me for basic maintenance around the building and I get a good deal on rent.
That looks really good, anon.

File: Coilgun_animation.gif (56 KB, 600x300)
56 KB
Hey guys,

I'm making a coil gun. I plan to start with two stages powered with capacitors. Any tips for me? Where should i look for wire? (eurofag here)
7 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
Did you check TME eu? Prices aren't too horrible even for small orders.
The main thing about a coilgun is that you need to cut the coil current when the projectile reaches the centre of the coil, otherwise it will retard the projectile (pulling it back into the coil).
I just bought 300 meters of 0,3mm wire. I think it will be okay and it was cheap as fuck.

photoresistors aren't anywhere near fast enough. What you want is a photointerruptor or a phototransistor.


The guage of your wire really does matter in this application. You might have fucked up.
You gonna die.

Peachy Printer Edition

Old thread >>980845

>open source community

>buyfag buyers guide
Any number of Reprap kits out there

>basic 3d printing FAQs
https://opendesignengine.net/projects/vg3dp/wiki (lots of useful stuff)

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
214 replies and 14 images omitted. Click here to view.

bang means good in chinese, so banggood basically mean extra good.
I guess Bonggood was already taken
It actually is the best chinese page I know of.
Anyone here done anything with makerslide? Is it cheaper/more accurate vs getting regular slot extrusion and putting some v rails on them?

I have access to a fairly large CNC at work that I could get a 2m length of aluminum extrusion (almost) perfectly square and flat then machine and grind a few lengths of the outer v rail addon to similar specs.
I pretty much just followed: http://reprap.org/wiki/PEI_build_surface

Bought the PEI and 3M double sided tape on amazon and stuck it to one of several borosilicate glass plates I use. My preference is to physically relevel the bed/"rezero" the z rather than software offset, but either should work. I still use glue stick on the PEI even though it's probably overkill, but I hate losing prints to warp and have never have any problems getting the glue residue off.

Where the hell do you buy wood that isn't bowed
If it's super important, I usually pick through until I find the straightest wood I can. Some places will have pre-picked over lumber where you can pay a little extra to get mostly straight wood without having to sift through the whole pile.
Lumber yard.
Also, I am pretty sure if you go to a proper lumberyard, instead of Home Depot, you can find wood of higher grade (ie select structural or grade 1 instead of stud quality)

I'm not positive that those would be less likely to be bowed, but certainly they wouldn't be any worse. They'll definitely have fewer knots and other imperfections though.

File: milk jug empty.jpg (35 KB, 293x400)
35 KB
Hey /diy/. I don't normally drop by here, but I've got a bit of a conundrum, and I figured who better to help than the faceless masses of 4chan?

So, I go through about two gallons of milk a week, and I have to imagine there's something better to be done with the jugs than just tossing them out. However, Google's not giving me a lot to go on. I live alone in a tiny studio apartment. I don;t have a garden, I don't have a workshop, and I definitely don;t have kids to entertain with a small, misshapen igloo. Any ideas as to how I can put these things to use?

Thanks in advance.
7 replies omitted. Click here to view.
jesus, from amount of tools you need to buy just buy a mallet from home depot.
trash is trash for a reason, because they have little economical value. Reduce, Reuse and Recycle. Every single faggot always forget about Reduce and Reuse. Recycling literal trash does jackshit for the environment except it makes every single faggot feels better about themselves.

Fuck people who recycle.
What the fuck are you on about? Those jugs get literally recycled into new jugs.
The fuck? You do realize that it costs way less to recycle aluminum than it takes to create more? Whatever, dumbass dipshit.
You fucking fuckos are missing an opportunity to make hdpe tools.
Cut up the jugs into smaller pieces and put them a 350 degree oven until they melt. Shape the blob like candy. Wait until cool and machine it like wood. Its hard as fuck when it isnt blown and stretched out like jugs are.

File: BoatFloor.jpg (328 KB, 1280x1024)
328 KB
328 KB JPG
Hey /diy/, I'm looking for anyone who has some boatbuilding experience.

This past weekend I bought a 30-year-old 15' bass boat in pretty bad shape with the intention of making it last at least a few years before I decide if I want to step up to something nicer (I'm new to boating and fishing). Aside from a lot of superficial problems, a good section of the boat's floor is fucked up from multiple years of water. I'm currently ripping it all out of the destroyed plywood and foam and trying to figure out what I do next.

What's the best way to install new foam and flooring if I'm just trying to make this thing usable? Do I really need to replace the stringers if they haven't turned to total mush? This isn't going to be a long-term thing and costs are mostly irrelevant because I know I'm going to end up losing money on this regardless of what I do.

Pic is not my boat but it looks a lot like this
Post pic of boat.

I am not a boat builder but I repair them on occasion.

Once the hull is in good form you can almost literally do anything you want.
File: image.jpg (2.09 MB, 3718x2788)
2.09 MB
2.09 MB JPG
The boat is a 1985 FiberKing Bomber. I literally just started ripping the floor/wood/foam out today. It's interesting because only the wood from the stern to slightly in front of the cockpit; at a certain point, everything moving forward is totally fine.
Probably was stored at an angle with the bow higher than the stern. Thats where the water would collect so thats where the rot is.

Stupid question
I've got one of these portable ACs in my office, and the exhaust tube goes up to the ceiling
So when it's running, the tube is radiating a quite a bit of heat.
I was wondering what's the best way to insulate it
97 replies and 24 images omitted. Click here to view.
>I have a gorgeous oak slab in my shed, i sanded it very very smooth, but it is starting to crack down the middle
>If i do as pic related, will this prevent from further breaking apart?
Thick and big wood tends to do this. The thicker and bigger the piece is, the more likely it is to do it. There is no way to stop it as it is.

Annoying fact: wood expands and contracts with changes in atmospheric humidity. This is what makes it warp and crack. The only way around this is to cut thin layers and glue them together in alternating directions--which is what laminate and plywood is. If you had a HUGE tree and tried to cut a 3/4" slice from it that was 4 x 8 feet, it would NEVER stay flat and not crack. This is why they don't sell pieces of wood like that.

Ideally what you would do is saw off a thin/facing piece, like 1/4" inch thick or less, and then glue that down to a sheet of higher-grade plywood (such as marine grade plywood). The top will still look nice when finished, and it won't warp or crack. You would be basically making your own laminate from it.
File: SayMyName.jpg (18 KB, 640x480)
18 KB
Yes, I forgot the pic. Don't act all surprised.
I wrapped mine with a thick blanket. Works well.
>I want to throw a party (~30 people or so) in the woods with music playing. We're looking to rent a set of speakers (friend knows a guy type of deal) and have some of us DJ-ing.
>Will a simple generator such as in pic related be enough to power the speakers, a laptop and some lights?
Open-frame generators are noisy as fuck, don't even try it. You won't like it.

What you need is a few large batteries (car batteries would work but ebike batteries might do better) LED lighting and a QUIET generator in case the car batteries can't keep up.

I dunno what it is right now, but for a long time the quietest small generators around were the Honda EU2000i ones. $1000 for 900 watts, which is way more expensive than the China brands, but the Hondas run quite a bit quieter.
It's a trowel. Laying brick is pretty easy, the hard part is making it look nice.

File: model77.jpg (183 KB, 720x425)
183 KB
183 KB JPG
hey /diy/ i'm trying to build an RC airplane, what's the best software for wing design, air flow and various other physics related parameters.

thank you
30 replies and 7 images omitted. Click here to view.
Stability isn't hard to achieve, especially if you're going with a fairly conventional design.

Anyone who's spent time folding paper airplanes should have a good enough feel for stability to make it work.
Kerbal Space Program with ferram aerospace.
File: 00trailer67.jpg (260 KB, 1584x660)
260 KB
260 KB JPG
just checked it out, i didn't know softwares could be this expensive.
i could literally buy a fucking Mercedes for that price. or at least hire a team of fags do do the job for me.

so whats the conclusion of these two ?
Well yeah, if you fucking pay for it.

What are some good projects for a high school senior set on aerospace engineering to do?

Any ideas? If questions like these are not allowed on the board, my apologies. I figured this is the place to go for such a question

8 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
The schools butthurt will be eternal if OP does this for his presentation.
>his aerospace career will be shot to shit though.

OP Make a Xray radiation Emitter and point it at the audience and give a lecture on the dangers of Cancer and why there needs to be more medical research Funding so that when you are in Space as an Astronaught you can be safe from harmful xrays as you are demonstrating.
Model gliders
Kfm airfoil maybe?
Pilot here

Test the idea of using hydrophobic coatings for anti-ice purposes. Get one of those 2-part coatings, apply it to a composite airfoil, and test it through a range of icing conditions. Find the temperature limits of the coating, and the effectiveness of the coating with different types of ice (sleet, hail, rime, clear, mixed). Make sure to include the total weight of the coating, because that has a lot of significance in the realm of aviation.
Assuming you're on a limited budget, get into RC planes or rockets. There are a lot of college competitions run by AIAA or SAE for max endurance, max payload, max altitude, course-following, that sort f thing. being familiar with rocket or RC tech will get you familiar with the basic practices behind aero design, and give you practice building things. It'll even help if you wind up looking for a job at a UAV or New Space company.

File: 1307.jpg (11 KB, 600x342)
11 KB
I'm setting up my car for a huge camping/driving trip and want to take plenty of water, but obviously optimise space as well.

Pic related is one solution, it is generic to fit the rear footwell of a vehicle, only problems are that it costs 300 kangaroo dollars, and only holds 40L. Preferably I would like to carry around 100L,just to be safe. If would also help out with weight distribution.
I was thinking about welding up something similar out of steel plate. If so, should I line it somehow to make it suitable for drinking water? Could I pour in a couple of litres of paint then slosh it around?

What sort of paint?

Other ideas?
8 replies omitted. Click here to view.
What's wrong with 2L soda bottles? Or water bags? What advantage does this giant container have? It would be heavy as hell to move around if need be.
Plus, if 300 kangaroo dollars is too much, food grade epoxy is going to run you up near that pricepoint for the sort of coverage you need.

But seriously just use the jugs from water coolers. They're like... 10 dollarydoos each, and hold 20 L, three in the trunk, two in the cab, problem solved.

The advantage is that as you deplete them, they can be crushed to make room, plus if you have to walk to a place to refill them (Say you can't park right next to the well pump) you aren't completely fucked.

>But muh space!
Yeah, but you can shift them around, buckle one into a seat if you have to, leave one behind in a pinch, if you build some big monstrosity, you can't do any of that, you're stuck with it.
File: D0149-4.jpg (62 KB, 597x597)
62 KB
For bonus points, also get yourself one of these bad babysitters.
>What advantage does this giant container have?
Not OP, but a single custom made container would probably be better if you want to make a permanent camper/RV type set up. It's more space efficient. It's a lot easier to fill the one tank rather than handling 5 20L or 50 2L bottles. It can be easily plumbed in with pumps/faucets/sinks/gray-water if you want to make an elaborate set up.

All that being said >>1001399 is probably the best solution for most people.
I have me a Swedish military surplus water bladder.

It holds a maximum of 250 Liters and, since its a bladder, it fills up to the space it's in (eg: a car's trunk)

[Advertise on 4chan]

Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10]
[1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10]
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.