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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

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Does the flight controller on a multirotor absolutely have to be in the centre of the craft? In my design I have no space in the centre for it (I have my reasons) I have to put it on one of the arms. Will that affect performance?
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Can't you use a counterweight on the opposite arm to balance it?
I don't think that's gonna work. Two of the motors aren't even lined up with the frame.
There is no difference
The point is it's easier to fly and less hazardous around people.
>flight time is < 1 min
You can absolutely make it work. You just have to program it differently. It will be slightly harder, because you have to translate (if at the front of the craft) vertical motion and pitch to true coordinates for the CG of the aircraft. It's still absolutely doable. Human pilots are at the CG of their aircraft, now, are they?

Alternatively, remember that the aircraft will maneuver around its center of mass, which is not necessarily its geometric center. So you could get creative with weight distribution and try to get the CG closer to the controller.

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Hey /diy/. I've been really getting into the Halo fever for the past couple of weeks, getting ready for the upcoming Halo 5. But I've been playing a lot of this game lately that i need to take a break. So i decided to make the Locus Helmet
>pic related
What materials do you guys recommend for me to us to create this beauty? I want to make it as realist and weigh realistically. Any opinions, advice and help would be appreciated. Thanks /diy/
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pepakura, resin, bondo. go on the 405th dumbass
meh i really like the design of the locus helmet. but thanks
Now, of all of them, why would you go with the one that has the least visibility?
That aside, I would recommend using software such as pepakura and heading down to the 405th website to find the model files you need. From there, as you'll read in the numerous tutorials, you can go about fabricating it in a number of ways.
The way I would think to do it is not cost effective for one single part and will take many work hours, think 30+ I should say. I would make the model from cardstock according to the pepakura instructions, reinforce it with resin (which can cost between about 50$ a gallon depending on quality/quantity)
Then I'd go about either making a silicone mold so that I could replicate it and rotocast the helmet in a separate material, or taking the new resin master and reinforcing and painting it I'd it satisfies you with its weight.
There's plenty more that could be done, but honestly, I doubt you have the money for material to do it properly so you're happy with it, or the time to make it or even learn the skills to do it.
I recommend looking at local community colleges for model making and rapid prototyping or a similar course if this kind of thing interests you as they have usually the materials and tools and expertise to teach you.

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This is to report back on my self install A/C adventure. And mainly to piss off Jaded A/C GUY - bet your racing stripes are kinda worthless, huh?

Anyway, > I had acquired a used doublewide - needed new A/C system, but local guys deemed my money less worth it "'cause its too far from the city'". I think it was because of the trailer status more than anything else.
> The trailer had no A/C system to begin with. It only had the floor vents and the furnace innards had been ripped out.
4 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
I give you props for doing your own install its not easy. More pics is always appreciated. I'm not an hvac guru at all but I was wondering why you chose a 4 ton unit for a mobile home as that seems to be way oversized...the recommended is probably 1.5 ton. you may run into problems with efficiency as the unit might not cycle on/off properly, lots of condensation which is a mess and humidifies the air, and other stuff that you may not expect (not an hvac wiz lol)...
however you will have working ac so what if its not perfect.
for my own curiosity...does the temperature stay consistent? does it run often? and any condensation form on the duct work? anything you learned or would do differently?
thanks for a reply
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Once the set temp is reached, it stays off for about 45 minutes. It then cycles on for about 20, and then off again.
>have I noticed an increase in humidity?
Au contraire the air feels a lot dryer now. I think my cigar box agrees because I have to put water into the humidifier gauze more often now. I did see condensation on the outside of the metal duct adapters a couple of weeks ago. I still need to go down there and put some insulation on the exposed parts of the metal ducting.

Overall I think the greatest difference apart from the size, is that I relocated the returns to a place on the floor plan that made more sense to me. I can feel the air rushing past the bottom of the doors, so I know it is flowing.
> I have been in trailers and homes where you can barely feel the air moving and the temp differential between head and toe is unsettling.

>What would I do different?
I would have gotten a smaller unit for sure. A couple of people recommended to go oversized to account for the Texas summers, but I think a 3 ton unit would have been sufficient for worse case scenario planning purposes.
> I guess I could redneck the trailer and add rooms to it without needing to worry about HVAC capacity!
Picture is of one of the relocated returns. Moved it from the laundry where the old furnace was supposed to go to the dining area, 'hidden' inside re-purposed kitchen cabinets.
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Also, next time I will do a better search and source 90* elbows of the correct diameter. The ones I got initially were 12 in and once I got under the trailer I realized I should have bought 14 inch ones. I could not find those locally so I resorted to reductors. It works, but better is to just avoid reductors until the very end. Since I need to go down there again to finish the belly board repair - it was torn when we bought the trailer - at that time, I plan to replace the elbows with 14 in. ones, mastic all over and insulation to minimize outside condensation (frogs love that shit).
I learned AT LOT from this DIY experience - mainly to not stress too much about A/C - thinking to treat AIR handling as a LIQUID (like plumbing water) helps in terms of what makes sense. Also, I am glad I went with a 14 SEER unit, because after the fact I learned that 13 SEER is no longer kosher with new buildings. Although this is a retrofit, you just KNOW that if some dimwit is selling you a 13 SEER or lower, it must be because its old inventory.
Im in south texas and would have installed that shit at a reasonable price, its a packaged unit, no brazing or running cooper lines, only one set of tstat wire to run, fix a couple of ducts, whoever declined to do that job was either understaffed, misunderstood what you needed or wanted, or just plain retarded
if you were going through a homeowners insurance to get it repaired then no wonder it takes that long. it takes that long for the bureaucrats to decide if to pay or not. A good hvac guy will be able to get you fixed up the same day depending on what parts are on the truck/van or the next day. unless you completely blew a coil most parts are available at the local supply house.

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homemade mask
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Hello /diy/,

I have a broken tabletop speaker system (a Logitech Pure Fi Dream) that I was going to throw out, but I decided to open it up and take out some parts that may potentially be of use.

As you can see, each side had what I believe to be a tweeter and a midrange driver/woofer. The midrange driver has a diameter of 3.5 inches, and the tweeter has a diameter of 1.5 inches. I cut them off from the rest of the system because it was impossible to detach properly. They had covered the area where it passes through to get to the main board in glue and what I think is thread locking fluid.

Either way, I have these tweeters and midrange drivers and am looking to create a new set of speakers using them. When this system used to work, it sounded pretty amazing. I don't need all of the crap that the old system used to do, I'm just looking to build something that I can plug an aux cable into and play audio through.

The questions I have:

1) Have I already fucked myself by cutting off a part that I can't replace?
2) Is the expense of buying all the parts and doing this myself actually cheaper than just paying the 100 dollars or so for a new set of tabletop speakers? (I have no soldering tools, so that would have to be bought too)
3) The speaker system said that it drew power at 6.5v, 50hz (even though I'm in Canada, strangely). Does that mean that I need to get something to step the power from 60hz to 50hz in order for my speakers to work properly?
4) The full speaker system (ipod dock/radio/screen) drew 2.5 amps originally, should I still try and supply 2.5 amps when I am only using the speakers in a new setup? Will it be difficult to supply this much power without the gargantuan power supply (proprietary, so I can't reuse it) that the system came with?
5) Where would one buy the parts/kits required to try and create this thing?

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
That screen is probably fucked. The type of connection that you cut is difficult to replace. The speakers themselves are probably ok, but you'd have to put in some work to find a crossover that'll work with them.
Also, looking at the thing they used to be in, one of the things you discarded was the amplifier, so you'll have to either build in an amp or make them passive and drive them with an external amp.

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How do i build a myself a fridge?

Im building a bar solution, and i also need to build a fridge. The space is both wide and tall, so a normal store bought fridge is not an option.
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Check out books on boating, OP. People build custom reefers into their old ice boxes all the time. The parts are available online.

You can buy refrigeration kits for marine/RV applications. They often have oddball sized/shaped spaces that can be insulated, coils added and hardware installed.
Thats a good way to return liquid refrigwrant to the compressor
I wouldn't trust this to work well. Besides the obvious, one of the related videos involved "free energy"

I'm putting my honda generator in the bed of my truck for perm mount. Where should the exhaust exit so I can sit in the truck while both run? The top? The side? Near the trucks exhaust? I can smell it where it exits now near in the center of the bed
By exit I mean I am making a longer exhaust for it to quiet it down as well
Longer exhaust might create too much back pressure, not sure if it'd be an issue though. If it's permanent why not route it through the truckbed and next to the truck exhaust?

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cool ass trick:
take spoon
wrap duct tape around handle about 4-6 layers
hold lighter under cup of spoon 2-4 min
turn faucet on cold and let water run over part you heated up
shit bricks
post results

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Any good links to making some lock picks? post your own sets
82 replies and 10 images omitted. Click here to view.
As long as you are not carrying them, no one gives a shit.

Here in VA, ANYTHING can be a burglary tool if the cops don't like you.

Screwdriver? Burglary tool.

Rake pick and tension wrench? Burglary tool.

Crowbar? Burglary tool.

Pickaxe? Burglary tool.

Shotgun? Burglary tool (no joke that one actually got argued and won for the prosecution).
it's tricky, but using wiper blades for the pick can be done.

you've got to heat it up and bend it. the heat is to make the bend without folding over, as in the metal stays flat where the bend is.

then it's off to the grinder to make everything about half as big
I need some cheap practise locks. I've been trying all of my local second hand stores, pawn shops, value village etc, but to no avail. I'm now willing to buy one new lock while I continue to browse the second hand stores...

how much should you pay for a cheap practise lock? Should I go for a padlock, a deadbolt, or a lock in a door knob, for the best generic practise?
I should add that I've also seen lots of abandoned cheap padlocks attached the fences and the like - I'm considering just walking up to them and practising late at night, but if I get caught that would look really suspicious (though the padlocks aren't actually protecting anything and it's not illegal here to carry lock picks.
He's right, picking lock can lead you into serious trouble.
Like damaging the lock to your house or your friend's house.
This ain't really a gentle process on the pins.

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Hi /diy/,
My professor has recently given me $10,000 to make a robot to compete in the Season 2 Battlebots. He originally wanted it to be autonomous, but I couldn't find a way to make an autonomous battlebot work without making it stupidly simple. I originally thought of using a swarm of quadcopters but I later found out projectiles weren't allowed. He now expects something more creative out of me, after I finished designing a dual wielding drum-flipper battlebot. Considering most of my robotics experience involves the Robocup/autonomous quadcopters, I've been hitting a wall thinking of a creative design that my professor will accept (I'm in CS, not MechE, this is all new to me). Does /diy/ have any interesting/creative ideas/designs I could use? I understand this all sounds stupid but I've done a lot of reading on the different types of battlebots but can't seem to find anything that'll stand out.
37 replies and 8 images omitted. Click here to view.
Add Liquid nitrogen.

It id cool as fuck.
I have an idea OP.

A quadricopter with a drill on it!

THe quadricopter at the right moment falls on your enemy and attach itself with magnet/suction/glue.

THe power goes awya from its rotors and to the drill. It drills one very deep hole in your opponent.

Bonus points if the drill goes through your quadrocopter and is powerd by a side.

THis way the public can see a very long drill slowly disappear isndie the enemy bot.
I always wondered how a mechanism similar to an impact wrench would work: have a flywheel impact a chisel whenever it's pushed into its path, cleanly apply several hundred G to your opponent and spall his internals without needing to penetrate anything.

Probably wouldn't work, but I don't think it's been done before.
I've always thought a robot with pinsars on the front and then an auger or something on the front. Just grab and drill a hole right through the other robot
I think I'd just do some sort of heavy, high RPM spinning disc.

Maybe be anal about grounding and throw some taser mojo on it so it fucks with other bots on contact.

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My usual technique of clamping workpieces to a table with c clamps when grinding no longer seems adequate. And I've always wanted a vise for reasons of vanity.

What's the best vise for a garage workshop <$100?

Are Harbor Freight vises good?
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The material is stronger, so it required less to provide the same strength.
>It's the hundreds of pounds of pressure the jaws are exerting on it from either side.
Even a modest hammer blow can impart thousands of pounds of force. This impact is absorbed by the vice and then passed to the table it's clamped to. A more massive vise will move less and transmit a lower force to the table, which is good all around. A rule of thumb I've heard for anvils is to get one that's at least forty times as massive as the largest hammer to be used on it. You see the anvil on OP's vise, right?

Try this: Get a 12-inch section of 2x4, and hammer in a nail while it's sitting on a card table. Then try it again with the board sitting on a cinderblock sitting on the card table.
Yeah, I wasn't talking about the JAWS fucktard, I was talking about the whole vise. If you are using your vise to do something like bend pipe or whatever you are gonna want that fucker to be heavy and have it bolted to a heavy bench or it WILL move on you when you start cranking on it. Clearly you've never even used a bench vise before so I don't even know why you are posting in this thread.

This guy knows whats up.
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my vise could crush yours
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...crush yours into a ball

23 pounds of forged steel

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Old one reached bump limit, so I'll start a new one beginning with a question of my own. I want to paint my metal exterior (front) door. I have some left over paint and primer in one, interior (probably answers my question right there) acrylic latex paint. After sanding the door a bit, would this adhere to the door, and if so would it hold up alright? Or should I just say fuck it and buy some exterior paint for it?
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WPS is easily cracked, and almost all new routers come with WPS enabled.

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I'm starting to think about a project I want to do next spring. The sidewalk leading up to my house is all busted and sucks so I'm considering alternative walkway ideas. I live in Minnesota so it needs to be pretty snow and weed resistant.

I'm thinking about just throwing down a bunch of these, but I don't know how they will hold up with shoveling so maybe I'll take the up each winter.

Otherwise I will need to jack hammer up the whole thing right? If I'm going that route should I just lay cement again after I jack hammer it up? Or would like laying one of those gardening tarps then covering it in bricks to make a brick walkway work too? Would I need to set the bricks in some masonry stuff or can they just be put in loosely?

Basically I'm looking for a good looking durable walkway that isn't beyond my pretty low skill levels to do.
Unless you put in a real good bed under that it's going to heave and shoveling it will be a real pain. You might look into "stamped concrete" and pour your own sidewalk.
Just remember, 80% of the work is getting the underlayment right.
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What would be the best way to make a mac tonite mask? I was thinking of maybe carving it out of foam and then covering that with something before putting on a coat of paint.

Any one have any better ideas?
>name of this mechanism
Don't know if there is a single, agreed upon name.
Spooler, screw level-winder, others?

Typically, ball bearings in the fairlead follower ride in the grooves of the shaft. The grooves simply do a partial u-turn at the ends of travel on the shaft.

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How does the little indicator on Brita filters work?

It usually has 4 bars, or on some models different colored lights, that count down to when you should replace the filter.

Got into an argument about this earlier, and apparently nobody knows.

It seems like it must either measure how much water gets poured out, or simply how long the pitcher is tipped. Otherwise it's a simple 90 day (or however long) timer that resets when you put in a new filter and push the button. (The digital gauge is not connected to the actual filter in any way.)

I'm on the side saying it's not a basic timer, but somehow measures use.

Does anybody actually know?

I tried this thread on /ck/, but thought you guys might have a better answer.
23 replies omitted. Click here to view.
Internet of Brita. Our app will alert you when it is time to change the filter (still timer-based though).
Sounds about right, put all the r&d money into bells and whistles. I want temperature controlled water filters
buy more goddamn filters. but only ones that fit this retarded profile. there's no money in the starter kits. all the money is in the replacement filters.

>buying the water purification jew
>listening to the water purification jews water bug that tells you to buy more water jews
>breathing the diatomic Jew
Could it be resistance based?

More minerals in the water, different conductivity/voltage...

Hey /diy/, first ever post, be nice.
What's your dream project that you know you will never get to do?
I am from the north east of Scotland and always had a fascination with the peoples who came over and raped my ancestors, especially the vessels they used to get here.
My dream would be to make my own viking longboat. What is yours?
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I've always wanted to make my own house from scratch, the lobby being a big circular library, or have one or a study on the second floor, observatory style. Adding to that, a mini skydome would be dope, Lilo and Stitch style.

Talking about things closer to what I could do when I'm skilled enough, I want to make that tail fin from How To Train Your Dragon. Looks simple enough + I can hang it on my wall.
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I've always thought that if I were rich I would make it my hobby to buy cars that the manufacturer didn't quite "get right" and modify them to what I think should've originally rolled off the production line.
Example: This generation Toyota Celica should've been AWD and turbo ch>>882619
arged, basically a competitor to contemporary Subaru WRX STI' and Mitsubishi Evos.
I'd love to send a robot to the moon that could dig into it and have it dig a big pictures that was visible from earth, but I'll probably never do it.
yeah but NASA already drew a penis on mars... so... maybe you should go join them.
Don't let the this society of capitalistic crud steer you towards a life of complacency not following your dreams!

I'm in a simalar boot but I'm thawing out. becoming my true self and not looking back at what society wants from me.

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