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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

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Old thread is Archived: http://boards.4chan.org/diy/thread/1465731#top

Last answer was to a problem with a furnace.

brand and model
photo of inside
(behind the cover - similar to pic related)
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A decent digital multimeter.
Most good ones are autoranging.
Or simply set it on the highest range and then step down the range until the reading makes sense.
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I need to drill a 24mm wide hole in a block of silicone, but not go all the way through, and have the bottom surface of the hole be somewhat smooth. What would be the best way of doing this? I've had the idea of using a forstner bit, but I feel like it could go a bit wrong.
just buy a fleshlight
im not making a fuck hole
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I picked this dewalt miter saw off craigslist, dual bevel 12in slider. It came with a 12in blade with 1in arbor but the saw has a a 5/8in arbor. This can't be standard, is it? Would a arbor adapter be safe to use?

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out-of-production thread: >>1474893

>RULES (draft, comments welcome):
0. Mains wiring goes to /qtddtot/ or /sqt/. PC assembly to >>>/g/.
1. Know the law. You are assumed to understand Ohm's Law and Kirchhoff's circuit laws. If not, google.
2. RTFD. Re-read all documentation/datasheets pertinent to your components/circuits before you ask.
3. Pics > 1000 words. Post schematic/picture/sketch/9001.5 hours in MS Paint with all part numbers/values/etc. when asking for help. Focus/lighting counts.
4. Read the problem statement before replying.

>I'm new to electronics, where to get started?
It is an art/science of applying principles to problems. Find problem, learn principles, design and verify solution, build, test, post results, repeat.

>Problem/project ideas:

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Yes I know the general idea
But how do i analyze a circuit / control loop etc?
like i want to drive a mosfet with an op-amp to control current flow
The basic circuit isn't going to be stable and I want to know how to analyze it and how to get it back into stability
Figure out the poles and draw Bode diagrams for phase and gain. Look for where the phase is pi and see if the gain is 1 or more.
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>not adding a washer or something to the holder
the one that came with my Aoyue station has a waist at the entrance end. might be a feature worth looking for. maybe this one?
how do I choose probes for my new-to-me oscilloscope? What I've read is you should get probes rated at least double the bandwidth of the scope
mine's rated 100MHz but I'm having trouble finding 200MHz probes
that and the capacitance/impedance thing doesn't make much sense to me yet either, how do I know it'll be compatible?
Wait I thought you were the guy asking. nvm.
exactly the same way you analyze any other system m8

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I'm thinking to get a split ductless aircon.
What is better: rent tools (vacuum pump, reamer, flare making tool) and DIY it, or just do the wiring for it and hire a professional to do this job?
I never dealt with thin copper pipes and flare connections before. What are the odds, that I will fuck up everything?
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Freon isn't just R-22. Although it is a brand name of a certain group of refrigerants, it also includes 410a, R-12 and a few others.

There's no end to pedantry
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that dude who mentioned pre charged lines is meaning the Aura Quick Connect split heatpumps.
yah goofs.
Refrigerant is a long word, so it is Freon.
Nice system, not legal to sell to consumers in my communist shithole though.
I have really fun situation. I can't get DIY unit, but I can get r22 (not even r410a) and release it to atmosphere without any problems.
In which shithole do you live?

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Can any of you guys tell me what it's like being a union carpenter? Or at least what it's like being a union worker?
Worth it?
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im a union carpenter ama
get down from there youll hurt yourself and call your mother she worries
Fucking fat roller coaster, junkie, boomer, carnie.
You're too fat to be up there m8

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hey /diy/, im in the market for a good set of beginners pullsaws and a set of chisels, budget is around $100-120 or so

I dont know a lot about these hand tools and such, as far as good brands, what to look for, etc. etc. so any help is required

please link me or point me in the right direction for some good tools
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yeah im going with a ryoba and a smaller (6 inch) dozuki for precision stuff

now just looking for chisels, trying not to go overboard on price since they're a gift, and im a beginner, but $10 for 3 chisels new seems...not worth it,quality wise.

Does anyone have any opinions on Narex?


I heard good things about suizan too. But gyokucho is very well regarded.

Regarding chisels, one idea Chris Schwarz pushes is get just one good chisel. A half inch from a top brand (or old iron fixed up used). Maybe a 3/8 square profile as well. Then buy more as you actually need them. A high quality chisel that's been well sharpened is better than a crappy set. You won't need all those chisels early on anyway.
yeah im getting a gyokucho ryoba and a suizan dozuki

as for the chisels i was gonna get the 4 piece Narex set i posted here >>1479635 but i was also thinking that just having one good, smaller chisel would be good too. save some money and get a better singular chisel

but i don't know much about the brands here
My preferred sharpening method:
I can't really suggest any brands, but I found my nonames at a garage sale, and as mentioned above, sharpening them is the key factor
What's wrong with a hollow grind?

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Hello /diy/,
So, It's already spoopy month, and spoopyfest is coming soon. I'll do a Rammstein - Du Hast costume this year, I already got the shirt, pants, etc. The only thing i'm missing is the mask, which is the most iconic part of the outfit. (SUPER pic related.)

I'm asking you /diy/tards to help me with this project, I have some ideas on how to make it, I already have an Anonymous mask (not mine tho), which I was planning to cut and cover with paper, otherwise I could make it from scratch.

Leave suggestions here please.
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I already said that I don't like Du Hast because it is so popular, I just like the mask. My favs are Engel and Mein Land

haha mate
P.D. What do you think about my age though?

Sorry for not answering regularly, /diy/ is almost dead.
Sorry .. forgot to keep an eye on thread. Yes, both are web stores
Thanks, I already checked them both, could you help me with some keywords to look for the mask?
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This is my new tripcode and name (OP Suric)
>if you want to track my posts.

This thread is dying and I haven't gotten an idea good enough for a shitty costume :(
Hm .. half mask perhaps .. maybe even Rammstein mask ..

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Thread hymn.


Last thread -> >>1467258


>Haas automation videos.
>Titans of CNC
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qq5dFeBhvRQ [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPIkPGqjBCc [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABeio9yOtkI [Embed]

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have any of you built a lathe stand/table before?
I have my lathe on a rolling toolbox, but the spotwelds for the top broke underneath the corner with the lathes motor mount.
It bounces up and down when the lathe is running, making all sorts of problems with finish.

I cant decide how I want to do it.
got a welder?

pieces of steel probably the way to go.
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Does anyone know what kind of lathe this is?
Also how much would you offer for it?

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Old thread: >>1472324

Spooky plastic dolls with tits edition.

Need help with prints? Post:
>filament type, bed & extruder temp, print & fan speed, etc

>general info
Additive Manufacturing Technologies:3D Printing, Rapid Prototyping, and Direct Digital Manufacturing, Gibson Rosen Stucker

>open source community

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You wanna decrease your travel speeds if youre having problems with parts coming loose
>You wanna decrease your travel speeds if you're having problems with parts coming loose

I've read that somewhere before. Hmm, OH YEAH, it's in my Harley manual.
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>made a one-off chamber flag for customer
>customer wants 1000 of them
>3D-printing costs too much
>regular molding costs too much
>they're seriously considering having an injection mold made
>it'll cost 3-4K EUR
>and it's all based on that one prototype you made
How do I deal with the possibility this may all go horribly, horribly wrong? What if I fucked up that one measurement? Or the new material doesn't hold up?
It's funny because it's true.
Z screw?

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>about to finish a diy project
>measurements wrong
>cant put together and have to almost start over
is there a worse feeling?
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>is there a worse feeling?

this must be your first time doing anything that was challenging.

first try: whether it works or not, it has flaws that are obvious

second try: pretty damn good, but not perfect

third try: usually quite excellent

fourth: crap, this is boring, what else is on my list
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Yeah, the feeling of being a goblin
imagine being such an autist that you don't place your objects together after cutting them and measuring every time just to make sure you dont fuck up
I like you
This sure is true but damn i will find something every time.

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Who makes the best work boots? I stand on concrete for 8 hours a day and most times more than that. I heard redwings aren't very good anymore and went way down in quality.
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I think one of the models still made in Portland Oregon is the ft Lewis
There might be a handful more. Yes, the do have them mostly made in Taiwan I believe, some models are still made in America. The ft Lewis is a pretty heavy boot but I bought it because it's made to last. I dunno, perhaps not the best boot ever, but I like em
Irish setter makes good boots
Ariat Workhog if you want real work boots. Being oilfield trash, I have plenty of money to spend on anything to make my life easier. I've tried every brand that comes with a steel toe. And the Ariat's are by far the most comfortable and last longer than anything I have tried. The break in time is about a week, and I get about 2 years out of them with decent maintenance. I've worn them while working derricks, rig floors, frac, and pipeline. Most people out here wear Ariat's for a reason.
any recommendations for Canadian/US made metatarsal guard boots
Any work boots are enough, faggot. I used random 20USD boots at my first job and they were just fine. Unless you have some health problem work boots don't matter as long as you work in dry conditions, and from the concrete part of your post I'm assuming you do.

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>leave wife at home while i go on 4 day sales trip.
>get home and wife says she had to call a plumber because the toilet was leaking.
>discover they charged her $200 to "reseat the rupper flapper."

That's it, I can never leave my wife home alone again. Have your partner or acquaintances ever been staggeringly incompetent? This is infuriating.
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>he doesn't glue his flapper down.

Thats how leaks start anon.
This is correct.

On call 24/7.

Trying to have a beer and watch a movie.

>reeeeeeeeeee muh toilet.

Welp, $200 is worth putting pants on i guess
Or just not be incompetent as fuck. The hell man. Are yall older or something?
When I was a teen my mother's insomnia kicked in and she decided to fix the leaking tub at 2am... she grabbed a wrench and ended up twisting the bathtub knob right off causing water to explode like a geyser. I woke up to screaming- I ran into the bathroom to see her drenched in water. We were both too ignorant to shut the water off- so I spent the rest of the night with my thumb lodged into the knob hole, until we were able to call for help. Ended up in 3 inches of water on a school night.
So, you go off to fuck bitches for 4 days and she stays home to fuck a "plumber" and it only cost you $200 and no divorce? I think you are getting off pretty easy, chum.

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Work safety thread
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>You take shit for granite until you dont have it.

based autocorrect
Under rated
That's why you ask for the location of the fire extinguisher before you do something.
If I’m sawing a board, should I?
I never had a problem before but all those particles flying in the air can’t be good for my eyes, right?
Sawdust in the eyes fucking hurts

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Last one died. Post your stupid /diy/ related questions here.
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I'm trying to restore and improve my house and I don't know where to start. It's a very old house, and was built around 1941 or so. I've been trying to find pictures of it or any mentions of what it looked like then but I've been unable to. Any suggestions on historical looks?
Can you even get 1mm plywood? What are you using to cut it? The standard cherry switch cutout sucks for any hand/machining tool. That's going to be a bitch to glue together too.

You might be okay if you beef up the areas around the switch cut-outs, the plane changes, and your profile board. I think key switches only need clearance to hook on in the L/R sides, not at the top and bottom.
Would also help if you're not using Royal Box Navies and bottoming out like a neanderthal.

>>>/g/mkg might have other advice. Most there seem to get their ergo-whatevers 3D printed if they're bothering, but that usually costs a lot in plastic.
>Can you even get 1mm plywood?
Yeah, 1-5mm plywood is commonly used in model building (especially airplanes).
> What are you using to cut it?
I'm not sure actually, I'm considering a plain knife, I think that's what model guys use for it. Possibly I'll get a small saw if needed.

I suppose I'll get a piece of plywood and check it out. They sell them cut into small boards so it's no big investment.
I wanna have an indoor wall covered in a vine, not just creeping, but covered. There is moderate indirect sunlight. Best plant options?
What the hell is this? Cell tower on a trailer?

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I punched a hole in my apartment wall. How can I fix this?
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>implying nasa doesn't use photoshop for everything themselves
The world is flat and we all know it
Ritalin and or prozac
how bout a can of whoop ass boomer faggot
I'm a 19 yearold boomer I guess
Cover it with a world of Warcraft poster. That is what I did when I left my parents house ten years ago. They found out five years after I left and we all had a good laugh.

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