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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

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Alright /diy/ wood working tools thread.

Post whatcha got, or whatcha want. discuss tool values. or just wood working tips and guides.

I'll start off by saying, In search the past few months for a better quality table saw has been fruitless. buying new =/= Conflicts in quality, or the price is just way to high to justify. buying used =/= shitty contractor saws people want for the price they sell for new. or massive cabinet saws that I have no way of transporting and a few hundreds to thousands of dollars.
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thanks for trying to help. lmao. but both of those saws are like 40 miles from me. and counting traffic. like an hour and half away. more if there's an accident somewhere.

that's the problem, where I live. IS A waste land. even junk yards want top dollar for the junk... its a freakin joke.
Well, I don't know what to tell you mate. I wouldn't think twice about making a 2 hour trip for a $30 saw like that. Even with gas and my time I'd probably come out at around $100 in total cost. Thats still less than half of what a hunk of plastic shit would cost new. I think maybe you need to realize you have to work a little more for the deal. Thats kind of how it is with vintage tools. Hell, the amount of work I've put in on cleaning up rusty vintage tools could probably buy me some shit tools from Home Depot. If you are lucky something will drop in your back yard thats quality and in great shape but, as Tomas Jefferson once said: "I am a great believer in luck, and I find the harder I work, the more I have of it."
yeah, for 30 bucks and the distance for a rusty piece of junk that I don't even know if the table it still true.. plus the dodgy god damn electrical wiring? lmao. idk that thing looks like a money pit to begin with. if it was closer i'd go and check it out. but being that far. its either make the trip to buy, or don't make the trip at all.
Op, I hate to be that guy but if you can't tell a good used saw from a bad one maybe you should just buy a new one. Both of the saws that guy linked are solid machines. Sure they need a little work but they are both selling for under market value. Surface rust isn't a problem. As for the table top being true, thats really not an issue with cast iron tops.

You seem to be under the impression that you should be able to get a decent used saw for under $100 or something. You can't. A decent saw new costs $400 and up. Sure, you can get shit for less but paying $150 for a Craftsman model 100 is not "wanting top dollar for junk" Thats the value of the machine. They are damn good little saws, I own one. At best you can expect to pay as little 40% of the new price on a machine with no defects. Generally its 50-70%. If you find one for under $150 thats still in good shape then you *are* getting a deal.
I really want to get in the hobby of woodworking and I just don't really know how. Should I take a fucking class or something? Should I go out and just do stuff?

What's the consensus on kitchen cabinets?
A lot of people seem to believe oak cabinets are out. Some people believe they are quality stuff and can't believe some people paint them white.
How does everyone here feel about them?

Would modern IKEA cabinets make the kitchen worth more then outdated real oak?

I have quarterswan oak cabinets, I think they are like a walnut stained. If I sand them down and stain it would it hurt their value? Pic not my kitchen. Discuss oak.
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>one flew over the cuckoos nest
It's worse when they combine it with that white glazed tile, it says "subway bathroom" to me. I automatically expect it to smell of cigarette butts, urine, human filth and shame.
Which is why its called subway tile.
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NYC fag here, and yea, oak is certainly not what's fashionable. You can still make it look nice, especially if you don't use old-fashioned trim and moulding design and keep it nice and clean, but let's face things, in this country, fashion permeates out from NY (and to a lesser extent, from LA), and it's certainly not fashionable here.

>source: i used to work in kitchen design until recently.

whites, especially a gloss finish, rather than a standard satin, grays, and clean lines are what people are mostly looking at. Glazing is very out of style, and while kitschy things like retro 70s barf tones are good for an occasional hipster, >>808631 , even a lot of those putzes aren't going that far.

You will see a lot of distressed and reclaimed looking wood finishes and faux-finishes (pic related) from those looking to avoid what some consider the sterility of a white/gray kitchen, but white subway tiles are still infinitely popular, so take from that what you will.
Paint them slate grey and throw up some white metro tiling.

Or paint them white and put up slate grey tiles.

Slate grey and white and metro tiles is a winning combination for kitchens and bathrooms
Whatever you chose will, repeat WILL, go out of style. Do what you like and what works.

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Old thread >>788941

>open source community

>buyfag buyers guide

>basic 3d printing FAQs

>what kind of filament do I want

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
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Did you buy a kit?
Not mad, just disappointed that people cant see through a flashy video on kickstarter.

Cant even say you get what you pay for in this instance, seeing how the majority of these kickstarter printer never even ship.
Printers are mature, so if you cannot order it COTS then don't fucking buy it.
I didnt buy it and i have no interest in buying it but it really tingles my wingles when some asshat comes out of nowhere and tells everyone definitively that everything is wrong with a printer because they happen to be an expert. "printers are mature" "a breeze will ruin the hotend" etc when the hotend is in a closed environment
but im not here to pick apart rehashed arguments, im just totally assmad at a bunch of cocksucker know it alls ON MY BOARD (even if the printer is most likely ass)
>saying "u mad" and "suck my dick"

Call me a know it all cocksucker all you want. All im doing is rehashing things that were said in the AMA and other threads ive seen on the printer. They clearly laid out in their kickstarter where they cut corners, and they were proud of it.

Its a bad printer that is being sold to ignorant folks under flashy advertising. They hired an Ad agency, hence why you can see their printer getting recommendations from non 3d printer websites.
They denied giving a sample printer to a very prominent reddit 3d printer designer to review.
They wont show it working, they wont show the software, they barely showed anything (1 printing video where it had really bad vibration issues they blamed it on being a prototype)

Its very shitty of me or anyone else to recommended someone this printer based off of what we have seen, because its pretty much all been bad.

I would rather get people an actual printer and contribute to this thread instead of playing the waiting game for a huge question mark.

If they didnt want to have people against their printer, they shouldnt have pissed off a bunch of printer owners

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Has anyone where 'biohacked' themselves? If so, what was your experience?

Who else is interested in this stuff?
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The only way to get to things we can't do ourselves is to talk about them.
Maybe so, but this board is still mainly about things you can do by yourself, not about shit which might or might not be possible some day in some government-funded lab. Like the other anon said, /sci/ would be more fitting place for this.
I'd rather we go with homemade medical equipment and nootropics.
I can create a mold that could be used to make a carbon fiber skeleton. I could grow muscle tissue, or an artificial upgraded version of it. Graphene nerves, and high impact skin of some sort. All I'm missing is a way to power it. That's arms and legs in a nutshell. All the heart is is a complex valve, which may not even be needed depending on what ends up powering this thing. Help me out here guys, we are on the cusp of a new age. All it will take is a push.
tell me more about the graphene nerves and the skin

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ITT: We post our most current DIY projects.

I'll start.

Blew the clutch on a 2002 Hyundai Accent a few days ago. Determined the total price a shop would charge for parts and labor to be ~$1000. Guess it is time to DIY. Pulled it all apart, the clutch friction plate is in pieces, only the spring center remaining. Flywheel looks ok, so I'm not going to bother machining or replacing that. Just waiting on the clutch kit now, should be in by tomorrow.

Total price: $200 for parts.

Feels good man.
currently trying to build a 2 gear transmission on the cheap.

Neutral, Gear 1 and Gear 2. for a 1 HP motor.
What do you plan on doing with that?
>clutch friction plate is in pieces
Guess you learned the hard way not to rev up to redline and dump the clutch. XD

Hardest part of changing a clutch is wrestling the transmission out and back into the car. Luckily manual transmissions haven't changed that much in 75 years, they've only gotten lighter.

Consider taking the flywheel to the machine shop anyway. You're replacing the pressure plate anyway I imagine, why not complete the set and have a nice fresh flywheel surface too? You're waiting on parts anyway, and it's a routine and cheap job for the machine shop. You can check the rear main seal while you've got it off.

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Hello fellas! Let's talk about work boots! (no pussy-ass composite toes allowed)

I bought a pair of Timberland Attach 6" from amazon about...4 months ago. I've been putting them through heavy duty use for the past 2 months, and they've held up pretty well.

I paid about 108$ USD for them, and I'm extremely pleased. I did however have to get Wide (after exchanging the normal width pair I originally bought). They are great boots for the price! Quadruple stitching.

I did however have to coat them in mink oil to make them better for keeping out water condensation, but you have to do that with all your leather boots in my opinion.

My only qualms with them is that they tend to get nicks on the toe portion of leather (since they get bumped into things regularly.

Still, great product for the price. I'm in the market for a new summer pair without insulation and I'd figure I'd ask you guys. What work boots would you swear by?
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>he doesn't resole his boots
Listen, I wasn't calling your boots shit or anything, but I think your boots are shit. I'm tired of hearing how superior your shit is when it falls apart in a year while my redwings are fucking fine after 4 years of pole climbing and I'm about to cash in my warranty on them because the upper failed.

The stitching has not failed, I have worn through the insulation in the ankle cup.

I've gone through 2 pairs of 150$ timberland work boots in a year and a half as an injection molding tech. One pair I bought, one I was given in good shape after the first pair's soul split right down the center.

Currently pinky toe has blown out in the second pair in both shoes..

Currently in the market for something to last more than several months. Any definitive recommendations for some steel toe work boots? I always hear red wing, but I never know which are the good ones.
Shoes for crews are awesome an make some great work boots by the way those "pussy ass composite toes" will keep you warm in the winter, have better E.H protection and are normally lighter
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troll or has a boipussy.

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First time poster- My hard drive broke under warranty and I accidentally sent it back in with the mounting bracket still attached. Where can I purchase a new caddy to hold it in place in there? Searching on amazon is only finding me optical bay caddies and brackets that hold 2.5 inch hard drives in a 3.5 inch bay. I have a normal 2.5 inch HDD I want to put in a 2.5 inch bay.

My laptop is a MSI GE60-OND.
Your best bet is to contact customer support for your laptop manufacturer. Laptop drive rails come in a surprising variety of configurations, so there isn't a universal type you can get. You're probably going to have a hard time finding a seller offering such a low-value part for such a small-market laptop.

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Hey /diy, i'm planning on building a homemade smelter similar to the one on the pic to smelt aluminum cans. I'm only concerned about the material used for insulation, because some of them can crack with high temperatures. What easily obtainable material do you recommend?
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I prayed pretty hard to the Omnissiah before casting.

It's not that they're dipshits, they just choose not to learn anything outside of the usual shit. I am yet to meet a chartered engineer in their 30's who actually remembers minutia in regards to metallurgy.
Honestly, just backyard casting. Random shapes are designs. Mostly little trinkets or symbols to show off, nothing that actually have utility to it beyond a paper weight.

Maybe, in the future, do some tooling to stuff.

But yes, casting into final shape using lost wax/foam methods.
>The lack of awareness here is astonishing. Do any of you realize that working with molten metal is dangerous? Do you know if you improperly charge a crucible you can cause a violent explosion of molten metal? Ive seen it happen and the man came back with 3rd degree burns all over his face and arms. He didn't pre-heat the aluminum bar that had residual moisture. The water inside the bar instantly vaporized and there was a steam explosion that blew metal in about a 10 foot radius. Do you know if you mix your green sand wrong and make your gating too long and narrow you essentially are making a pipe bomb that will explode in your face while pouring?
I worked at an aluminum smelter after HS graduation and your words needed repeating. Super dangerous work even at professional foundry.>>807368
Heat = Danger. Who knew? If anyone needs me I'll be here >>>806660 informing them electricity also kills.

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I'm looking at stitch and glue 1-sheet plywood boats and have a couple of questions for anyone who has made one.

First, how good are non-epoxy alternatives in function and price vs epoxy?

Second, besides looks and maybe extra drag, are there any issues with leaving the stitching in place after glue up?

I've found plenty of plans but the general feeling I get is that they are calm water boats. Do you all think that they'd be stable enough to bowfish (sitting or standing) from?
Non-epoxy adhesives are generally cheaper, but weaker (also may not last as long). For calm water boats it'll work just fine, but it you're planning on being in anything crazier than a puddle in a vacuum, go with epoxy, 2 part specifically.
I've left stitching in boats, I just put a layer of fiberglass cloth over them. Helps with looks and strength, and not too expensive.
I can see from your picture that you've been looking at Hanu's boatyard, a great place to start! All of his boats are for exclusively sitting, not much leaning. A 1-sheet boat with a 5 inch PVC pipe outrigger might be what you want, but you'll have to reinforce the bottom more than you would for a calm-water boat

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Hello /diy/ I was wondering is someone has read about the Emdrive and if someone has some idea of how actually making one at home. The parts look simple (cavity frustum and one magnetron), though probably I'm missing something.
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It hasnt actually been shown to work, you know, because its violates the laws of physics.
but it gets hot. that's proof. troll physics in action. every single one of these motherfucking 0 point energy machines.

didnt the control experiment that was configured incorrectly so that it couldnt possibly generate anything, generate more power? and then they worked out it was just vibrations fucking up the instruments.

>trying to detect small amounts of energy in an environment where the magnitude of the signal and the noise floor are the same.
several reddit users have made builds i understand.
Oh, well, if its on Reddit is must be legit.

Even at their most optimistic and dubious result they generated less than 100 micronewtons. Do you even have the equipment necessary to rigorously test for levels of thrust that small?

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I'm weak and I don't have any friends ;__;

How can I move this tire? It's an 18.4 x 34" tractor tire. The tire itself ways about 250lbs (113 kg) and I guess there is about 50 more lbs of sand and dirt and crap inside of it.

I was thinking of just cutting it to bits using a reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade, would that work?
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Dig it out, clean it out, tip one side up, and roll it.

Use a lever if you have to, F1*R1 = F2*R2

Go move the fucking world.
start a crossfit gym and people will pay to move it


A common misconception is that tires are a direct measure of your strength. I'm not that strong, but the tire in OP's picture are childsplay to me. I could probably lift it off the ground. Anything comparable though would be hard for me.

I recommend taking a shovel and digging a hole under one end, then take a long piece of wood and a brick to make a big lever. The tricky part with tires that have been on the ground like that for a long time is that they stick to the ground like glue. You need to break that bond before you move it.

After that I dunno, maybe lift it up and jam a few round things under it to roll it around?
/fit/ please go back to /biz/
How you are not able to move that is beyond me. We literally rolled around tractor tyres when I was in daycare. 5 or so 5-year-olds would work together to raise it, roll it up a hill, and then one lucky kid would ride it down.

Perhaps you just went to a bad daycare, I don't know.

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I've been using a power strip for some, let's say non-traditional, electrical devices but the breaker on it keeps tripping.

Does wiring a male/female outlet to a 20A circuit breaker require any special considerations?
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if you are using heavy inductive loads you can get breakers with different curves to allow for startup current draws.
I don't think the issue with it is the startup, the power strip's breaker tends to trip when i have the electrodes in either direct contact or passing current directly through a conductor.
Don't use a power strip for MOTs. They always trip or fry every single time. I know that from experience. Even with my MOT spot welders (1800watts), 2 in series I can use my 15amp wall outlet without trouble at all. The wires in the walls are all 12AWG and the breaker is 15amps.

For something that needs to be continuous duty with high current, like a furnace, you should use at least 10AWG wiring. I suggest you google up some electric pottery kiln website information. They have 120v-240v 10amp-50amp equipment and plugs, wiring, and breakers to suit their power needs. With those, you'll be better able to determine what your equipment's needs are.

Well here's the silly thing. In my setup I'm using two 120V outlets together to get 240. I could probably just plug it straight into the joined plug with 240V but I kinda want the peace of mind/control of having a breaker/switch there.
What are you melting?

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Is there literally any time this is the right tool for the job?
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only when no one is looking
i work in theater
i am poor
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When I was in the navy, these were all removed from the toolboxes. Shit tier tool.
For when you can't fit any sort of socket because there almost no room, also the torque on a large crescent wrench is more than you'll get with any socket wrench without a cheater bar.

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Pic related, my first time welding, I'm attempting mig welding. I've watched multiple YouTube videos on how to weld I used the chart on the door of the welder to set everything up and am using .035 flux core wire on 16 gauge steel and the welds are strong but they just look like Shit, what am I doing wrong?
Also, welding thread
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> dat perfect curve of slag that has lifted off that weld.
Too hot, feed too fast, travel too fast, and it looks like you need to run CO2 shield gas with your flux core.

Try running practice beads on 1/4" stock. Mostly what you need is practice. Also, dial back your feed speed some. You might also have too much stick out. Welding is about manipulating the puddle. Try making tiny little zig zags or semicircles with the arc, keeping them as uniform as possible. That's something that gets easier with practice.
all night long
that job was easy money I tell ya whut
As others have said, weld penetration is what matters. If you are just welding as part of a hobby grinding can take up an amount of time as well.
If you are going for a job, expect to still use a grinder to clean up welds, but as a professional welder, your welds should look fairly clean.
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You can test if you have proper penetration. Make a filet weld put it in a bench vise. Break the plate of with a hammer. look at the edge of the plate if you have completely fused it. If you see a straight line from the plate there is no fusion.

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