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04/28/16New trial board added: /qst/ - Quests
12/20/15New trial board added: /wsr/ - Worksafe Requests
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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

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I need help with this.
I have this 8 years old desktop computer (¬¬ i cant afford a new one ¬¬) and recently i bought this 18.5 inches LG LED monitor, 19M35A, with a resolution of 1366x768. I have a GeForce 7300GT (i know, i know, its prehistoric). The monitor has a standar VGA connection.
My problem is that the "screen area" for programs is too small. The start menu almost cover the entire screen ¬¬. I work with graphic design, mapping and CAD software so i need more "screen area" for maximizing the software.
My question: Am I doing something wrong? Or this is the best "screen size" i can get with this resolution (1366x768)? If i upgrade to windows 10 (if i can...) can i get a bigger screen size? Or i need a bigger monitor? Or i have to return to windows XP for a "bigger screen"?
you need a better monitor, or more of them
the fact that the start menu is big is irrelevant. when you maximize an app, it's virtually the same size on any Operating System. you can gain maybe 40 pixels in height if you auto-hide the taskbar.

if you set the resolution above the monitor's native resolution. the monitor may refuse to display anything, or it may compress the image. if it's the latter, it'll look pretty shit, so a new monitor is the best idea.
>work with graphic design

No you don't, otherwise you wouldn't be asking such bollocks, cheapo.
take this shit to

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So, my parents recently bought a new house and I am in the process of helping them renovate it. It wasn't bad to start with but kind of small and outdated. I figured I would start a thread and detail the work I'm doing and having others do. There will be a series of posts here at the beginning to get things started since I need to bring you all up to speed. First, the house.

listed as 1440 sq ft 3bed 2 bath
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This whiole thread she be stickied with the DIY squat rack and a request to not post of that new plugin brought you.
you are going to install nogging and braces right?
i got tired of clicking posts. LOTS of criticism here for the concrete. fuck you guys. do any of you realize how much more brick costs than concrete? or that you need a slab to build a garage on? No shit a paved patio would have been nicer, im not a moron. thanks for making me feel like shit. but this is the reality: as expensive as the concrete was, it was exponentially cheaper. it widened the driveway which was necessary to accommodate the number of cars we need to park, and got me a slab for the garage. Now, as for the back... yea i would have preferred that to be brick. but the whole reason we paved it is because this is going to be my mom and dads house, and they like having big fucking patio parties. my dad is 86, and has had 2 knee replacements. he cant walk on a lawn. he would trip and fall on pavers. this is the safest thing for him. so again, fuck you guys, it achieves a purpose..

specifically to answer the question of why not revert the garage and build a party shed: because this isnt a goddamn frat house. my parents need the extra space inside, and it serves everyones purposes better to have a detached garage. plus, in the future, when my mom retires, i will finish the garage and turn it into a small rental for additional income for her.

despite everyones criticisms this is actually a pretty well thought out plan. is the concrete pretty? no. but it was cheaper than brick or pavers and it achieves a goal. cant have everything dickweeds.

>mission accomplished
Holy shit really? What the fuck was your mission? That's so fucking idiotic. Is this a "low maintenance" kind of mission? Well good luck when the it cracks. You didn't put a single damn expansion joint in there.

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I don't know about you guys, but tools give me a raging hard-on. If you have tools you can do what most cannot, combined with proper knowledge ofcourse.

What's your favorite tool/s?
What's your latest purchase?
What are you thinking of buying?
Which tools do you dream to own?
Whats your workspace look like?
What's your favorite stuff to work on?
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Yeah, I guess for my basic needs I probably won't notice much different.

This guy is pretty adamant about using Makita though.
I'm joking, there's some guy on here who explodes and derails threads attempting to purify them of all unclean non-makita users.
lol I just assumed someone was shitposting. I don't make it over to /diy/ too much. I guess it's a little more civil here than /k/ or /b/.
Less important than the brand is the type.
If you're going to carry it around a lot and not use it much, weight is going to be important. If it has a specific use, make sure it's really good at doing that thing.
Oh boys, just go to the scrapyard, get tons of working or damaged tools, repair them and apply fat, have huge amounts of decent tools. How can you not exploit the stupidness of the average retard who thinks his drilling machine is broken if the coal blocks are used up.
just got 4 Bosch battery drillers and a chainsaw yesterday

I need some help with my university project. I'm trying to find something (A chemical, liquid, etc) that helps with cigarette's degradation. We found out, for example, that acetone turns the cigarette into some kind of rare substance. But it doesn't really work with what we want to do. Do you know any chemical or substance that helps with the degradation of what's left of the cigarette after you finished smoking? Maybe something that accelerates the natural degradation of the cigarette or something that turns it into some other material. Anything is well received
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Acetone is nail polish remover....
God damn you're an idiot.
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Says the retard defending smoking. Kill yourself you fucking faggot
most modern cigarette filters are just acetylated cellulose brah, google it
Which ones
Without which you would have no crops
Oh boy I am in for a treat.

Every crop, seed, and food product you've ever eaten or will eat is a science experiment. Ever eaten a banana? Do you eat organic bananas? Every single one is a sterile clone. The label of gmo can be applied to every food on earth. Learn to cope.

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Questions that don't deserve their own thread
Stupid question thread
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>for corrosion reasons, only a nylon insert would be viable,

not a brass or aluminum insert?
they are pretty hard to corrode
Near constant exposure to salt water. And salt creep.
Sorry about the double post. Internet was acting up
I should make my own thread in that case
What exactly will be happening to that acrylic sheet? What kind of load?

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What's the easiest way I can use a computer as an oscilloscope? What's the best way?
your computer doesn't have the hardware necessary to be used as a decent oscilloscope on its own, but

1: sound card's LINE-IN ADC with perhaps a custom driver; will only work to 41/48khz and require a preamp but it's better than nothing

2: picoscope or similar device


buy a tektronix tds 360 for <200 bucks
>will only work to 41/48khz
41/48 khz is the sampling rate. The ADC will be worthless for anything greater than half that frequency, and even there it's only marginally useful.

If you futz with the signal, though, perhaps by mixing it with a local oscillator tuned to an adjacent frequency, you could turn a high (even GHz-level) frequency signal into something readable by an ordinary sound card.
get the DSI138 and if you want to keep it DIY, get the NOT soldered kit and solder it yourself for less than your lunch money from China Express

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Can we get a cool hiding places thread? The pic is kind of related, but I'm thinking more along the lines of Anne Frank or the Maltese Falcon.
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What a buncha haters.

The picture was designed to make the drawer obvious. It's actually pretty dark Walnut and especially when it's my lovely daddy in law's wittle handsies, you can't see it.

I'm sure your daddy in law likes spanking your faggot ass with it
>Of course, the /g/ solution to practically unlimited resources is to make it impossible for even theoretically unlimited resources to crack it. This is easy to do for computer storage but I wouldn't know how to do it for physical objects.
It's simple, you turn it into a computer storage problem. Put your stuff in some random location not associated with you that's not likely to be dug up/cleared out/destroyed in your lifetime and keep the only record of where it is on a super-duper-encrypted drive.
But let's be fair, that's a great gift. Good job.

Looking for a cocktail to knockout.. Any recipes?
1 bottle of beer

don't drink the beer
hit her over the head with it

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Hi /diy/
I asked this question on /g/ but they sent me here because they thought y'all might be more knowledgeable on the subject
I'm a frequent of /k/ wondering about comms and how they work.
I was thinking about getting a short band radio to communicate with some buddies while innawoods to "train" But I realized I know nothing about them and wouldn't know the first thing about buying one- SO

How does a short band radio work?
Would a CB suffice for a guerrilla force attempting to operate against a much larger/well equipped military?
Is it possible/easy to encrypt a CB to prevent unwanted listeners?
If not, what types of radio do I need to be looking at?
What are some decent handheld radios on the consumer market today?
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To clarify this, the UV-5R is not formally blessed as a license-free radio by the FCC because it's capable from the factory of transmitting on licensed amateur and commercial bands, and also is about twice as powerful as an FRS radio is allowed to be. But if you refrain from transmitting outside of FRS channels, your shenanigans should be mostly benign and free from scrutiny.
Ten times actually, although power doesn't directly translate to range. It's not like the FCC cares about FRS either.
well obviously the point of owning one would not be to harass other people or do anything to intentionally interfere with civil services

I can't imagine the fcc has excess funds to waste on a crusade against people who want a better option for communication other than the off-the-shelf choices available at wallyworld
I took a practice test for lols and got 54%
>Ten times actually
Shit, looking at the wrong thing. You're right.
Is there a way to reduce broadcast power with a UV-5R without modifying it? I'm not that familiar with it.
>although power doesn't directly translate to range.
No, power gives diminishing returns with range (inverse-square and all that) For instance, 10x the power grants only 3.2 times the range. But power DOES directly correlate to interference, which is really the main point of the power limitations in the first place.
>well obviously the point of owning one would not be to harass other people or do anything to intentionally interfere with civil services
No, but ignoring (or being unaware of) the regulations can still potentially be problematic.

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Flood prevention

Lets say you live somewhere in the south. Or really, anywhere that could wind up flooding after a Once In 500 Years type flood. Or even an industrial accident, where for some reason your habitat is flooded for a month.

So... how do you keep out the water? And I mean keep it out for about 6 months to a year.

This construction assumes the living space will be higher than the level of the water, but I'm more concerned about the worst case scenario of the land absorbing the water, becoming soggy and it sinking.

What sort of stone, what sort of masonry? Just tons and tons of concrete? Do you need to build beneath the level of the land, or can it just stay on the surface?
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>too many classes on geotechnical engineering

I am really fucking.glad they make sure that civil engineers can understand what they are going to put a several hundred thousand ton footing on.
>something doesn't work 100% of the time so it's useless.
>several hundred thousand ton footing
wew lad

A very large McMansion house footing would be unlikely to exceed 35 tons.
assume two stories + roof
Therefore 100 story skyscraper is 100 stories + roof

35*3 (close enough, kek) = 105 tons

those are US tons (i.e. 2000 lbs, or like 143 stones or some shit)
Fair enough, I just hate designing with dirt. The thing that annoys me is there are a lot of calculations you can do for high(er) end design, but for most applications, the soil is variable enough that we just throw a factor of safety of 3 to 10 on it... Do all this work and it doesn't really matter in the end.

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I want to make a coil gun but have 0 experience with electronics and obviously no tools. What would be a good place to start learning or a good first project?
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I mean uniform in the sense that at any given time, the magnitude and direction the field is the same at any point in the solenoid. You can still vary the field by changing the current in the solenoid. i.e. within the coil, the field is not a function of position, only time.

Actually now that I think about it the projectile will be moving along the field lines so there won't be any acceleration from time variance anyway. Pretty sure all of the acceleration comes from the fact that as the projectile approaches the coil it
A) gets magnetized
B) increases the inductance of the coil
My coilgun idea.

>copper discs (penny sized)
>rotated to several thousand rpm
>shot with small liquid nitrogen tank for superconductivity
>hydraulic assisted firing mechanism
You monster.
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I want one of these, except with an extended barrel/coil, higher power, slightly larger bullets, a scope, and a bipod. Time to fuck some deer up with a fallout gauss rifle.

Can annybody give me some advice on what kind of desktop cnc mill i should get ? I need to be able to mill sheet metal, alminium and steel, max 3 cm thick. I need to make a lot of little parts, so i need something strong enouch and fast enouch. I have about 1k budget, and yeah i know u can diy it but not enouch knowledge on the subject and i dont have the time to get into that right now. Anny advice would be much apreciated
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>Gantry mills tend to lack rigidity and aren't usually recommended for cutting steel.

The pic in OP isn't a gantry mill. The workpiece in a gantry mill is completely stationary, with the gantry handling articulation in all three axes. With the bed handling one axis, the "gantry" can be much more solidly fixed to the bed.

That being said, the pictured mill still wouldn't be very good at anything more than plastic (unless it's VERY small), between the overall flimsy construction and unsupported bearing rails.

Don't really know what to say as far as a low-cost CNC goes. I'd be inclined to just build my own, simply because it seems like all the commercial offerings stick you with a floppy, anemic machine, or are out of the range of what I'd call "cheap".
Who the fuck told you cutting aluminum wet would be better than cutting it dry?
>Who the fuck told you cutting aluminum wet would be better than cutting it dry?

Not that guy, but...everyone? A lot of aluminum alloys can be problematic without lubricant, even if they don't need coolant, per-se. I've got some 5052 sheet that will melt, clog up, and break the 1/8" endmills I use for routing unless it's flooded.

And all but the most machinable aluminum will come away with a noticeably better surface finish with coolant.
Yea feed rate and moving material out of the tool is why you use cutting fluid

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Okay, so I have a rescue guitar from the 80's that actually sounds really good with fuzz or high gain, and the novelty of the instrument is that it has a speaker built in. After replacing all the sub-par components, including the speaker, I find that the only thing left to address was the fact that the 9volt battery inside is drained super quickly.

I have some soldering experience when it comes to electronics, but I am not an expert by any means. I was hoping that someone here might have an idea for some way to negate the use of a 9volt, either with an alternative (less expensive) battery set up or preferably by stepping down the voltage of a 12v transformer (however one might manage to do that). At first I thought USB stepped up to 9v might be a solution but after some research, that seems to be a pain in the ass to efficiently accomplish without just buying a converter. Any ideas?
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Thats not what they are designed for though. All batteries have an optimal current they can supply and still get good mAh out. 9v can last a very long time as long as you only draw small amounts of current from them. AAs are much more suited for high current applications.
One question I have, that I feel hasn't been raised in the thread.

Do you want to keep the guitar's mobility, sure you can plug it in a power supply or usb, but would you sacrifice too much of the guitar's novelty, because at that point you could just use a regular setup and not worry about the batteries.

That guitar is sick though, I have to say.
thats horrifying.
whats the output, 9v 5ma ?
looked at the video, 75 ma.. I was close enough.
I'm not any kind of expert, but I'd want to replace it with a more efficient battery source. Probably a couple of 18650s.

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Your grass will NEVER be this green.

Your grass will NEVER be this healthy.

How does this make you feel?
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>rabbit shit pellets
hooo baby
>Keeping your pets in a 2x1 cage
I cannot see one piece of shit right now in the living room.

They are around, but honestly never bothered me anyway. They go in the litter box 99% of the time, and it doesn't stink, at least nothing like cat or dog piss/shit.
zoysia is the superior lawn grass.
>my grass
the lawn of the white family you mow for is not your grass, Julio.

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