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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

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Old thread >>1364963

Need help with prints? Post:
>filament type, bed & extruder temp, print & fan speed, etc

Still new pasta, feel free to contribute

>general info
Additive Manufacturing Technologies:3D Printing, Rapid Prototyping, and Direct Digital Manufacturing, Gibson Rosen Stucker

>open source community

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are there people on /diy/ who you can source pcb hardware from?
not that it would necessarily help that guy but it would be cool to know that someone personally made it and you didn't get some chinese sweatshop board
eh, think ill try a usb extender with this usb sd card reader, it says hot swappable, hope it means what i think it does
there is a switch in the card slot that tells the computer when you pull the card in and out, if the extender is still plugged in the computer doesn't know you have swapped the actual card.
usb will work because the only detection is at your card.
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I'm having a really frustrating time with trying to get my heat bed to work. I have tried 2 beds so far and haven't gotten them to heat up at all. The one I'm trying to use has continuity from the power port to the D8 port, I have TEMP_SENSOR_BED set to 11, and BED_MINTEMP set to 5, there is enough power available for it since I have a 400W PSU for the whole thing. The hot end starts heating up but no voltage is measured across the heat bed and after some seconds it fails to detect a change in temperature so it stops with the "Failure to Heat; Reset Device" error.
I'm trying to control it using an attached LCD control screen/sd card reader so it's not hooked up to a computer with repetier or anything.

I've made sure none of the components are touching like the bent MOSFETs or stray wires or anything. I've tried 2 heat beds now and am so tried of this I'm tempted to just try a different arduino mega and ramps board to see if something is just fucked on my current ones.

I don't know what I'm doing wrong, does anyone know what might be the problem?
If the bed mosfet doesn't even blink (it has a led in parallel with the bed) it's dead-open

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Hello fatherless generation.
Who are your favorites?
Wranglercuck, EC, Paul Sellers, AVE etc.
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I like Bauforum24, a German channel, mostly because of the power drill tests. Toolboss if I want to sleep.

None. Having been linked to Wranglerstar's stuff though, what exactly is his problem? He's kind of a moron.
People literally only watch his videos because he used to identify as a "God fearing Christian" in his early videos.
It's like when people hire hacks over other qualified workers because someone puts an ichthys on their advertisement.
I guess having an imaginary friend means you have inherent knowledge and can be blindly trusted

>used to identify as a "God fearing Christian"

This explains a lot.
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others I haven't seen mentioned:

Bcbloc02 (Brian): Solo builder restoring an old barn around a HUGE bridge crane, lots of heavy machine tools, his dog Bailey, and healthy amounts of autism. Huge respect for the amount of work accomplished by himself.

Andrew Camarata - Built a shipping container 'castle'/shop. Lots of dump trucks, drone shots, and getting shit done alone.

Rainfall Projects - Chad farmer and his dog restoring an old barn.

Kirsten Dirksen - Visits odd/small homes across the globe

NYCNC - I find annoying af, but his machine shop tours are rad:

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Alright, /diy/, my friends and I had an idea to build our own castle. Any tips on how to get started? What all that would be required?

Also lets assume cost isn't an issue
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The fuck. Diy is just a flat out fucking trol board.

What is google
What is youtube.

Just make your coffin out of cement blocks. Make sure it's in a dry spot where a tractor trailer can get in and rent something with forks
I fear the day nanobots start altering matter.

Assuming the next nukefest doesnt end us
I look forward to that day. Fuck this gay earth.
>gray goo when?

Wait! That part at 2:05. Bro splits a giant ass boulder.

Wtf is this called and can it be done with a 15-30 ton boulder about 5 feet thick and 15 feet square on the surface?

I can move 5 ton boulders. I can roll 14 ton boulders. I cannot move bigger and if i can move about 10 of these guys out of my way my lofe would be a lot easier.
62 tons. Nvm. Still can't find a name for it if there is one tho?

And hammer be dammed. I can gently rest 6-8 tons on wedges and push them from the sides with abou 5 ton of force. Maybe more.

Just drill holes and go to town it shaved down railroad spikes?

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old truth thread: >>1363100
>I'm new to electronics, where to get started?
There are several good books and YouTube channels that are commonly recommended for beginners and those wanting to learn more, many with advanced techniques. The best way to get involved in electronics is just to make stuff. Don't be afraid to get your hands dirty.

Forrest Mims III, Getting Started in Electronics
Charles Platt, Make: Electronics
Michael Jay Geier, How to Diagnose & Fix Everything Electronic

Kybett & Boysen, All New Electronics Self-Teaching Guide
Paul Scherz and Simon Monk, Practical Electronics for Inventors


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>seems like a backward, overly complicated way of rigging it for the correct answer
Certainly, but it is correct.

>are motors really that inaccurate regarding torque?
They're probably pretty good, good enough for your usage case at least, but you have to set the speed by voltage and torque by current, which may take some tweaking and an overly complicated PSU for the voltage. Unless you have access to a good enough bench power supply that is.

Pic related is my shot at it. At t = 1ns the two PNPs switch over, deactivating the pull to +6V and activating the current sink. Replaceable with a DPDT switch I suppose. Since the speed of the motor is proportional to the voltage, the energy/momentum stored within the rotating system can be represented with a capacitor across the motor. This constant current flows until the voltage across the capacitor and motor hits the limit of the current sink, stopping at a constant voltage and therefore constant speed.

Measuring the torque/current and speed/voltage proportionality constants may prove difficult. Motor ESR and inductance will be easier. But by setting I*w^2 = C*V^2 you should be able to get a nice electronic model. Then you just pick voltages and currents that will result in a reasonable motor reversal time (5s or something)
This is kind of a lot to take in for someone who hasn't taken electrosystems yet, or any experience with circuit diagrams. Not sure how I'd account for it, seems pretty complex

would an arduino suffice for this? I understand the other symbols to a point, but why are there 4 voltage sources on your diagram? also, why is the capacitor across the motor necessary if the voltage through the motor is already indicative?

i'll be reading some of the recommended books for this, although there is a time constraint. appreciate all this immensely
>This is kind of a lot to take in for someone who hasn't taken electrosystems yet
Yeah, oops.

The two voltage sources on the left make a + and - voltage rail, so you can have the motor pulled to either a positive voltage or a negative, which is necessary for the motor to be able to go forward and in reverse. The other two are just used as switches in conjunctions with the PNP transistors, Q1 switching off when Q4 switches on. You can ignore those transistors, voltage sources, and the resistors connecting them. R6 is just a current shunt, the diodes are probably to prevent a voltage spike from the inductor, not sure if they'll work with a real PSU though, might want to replace it with a couple of appropriate zener diodes in series across the motor. The transistors Q2 and Q3 make up a current mirror along with R3: R3 powers the base of Q2 to allow I = ~Vcc/R3 of current, and since the same base voltage is at Q3, so the same current flows through Q3 to ground (assuming the transistors are identical). Since collector current is proportional to base current, the same collector current will flow through both Q2 and Q3, hence sinking I = ~Vcc/R3 through the motor, which is a constant current. When the voltage after the motor approaches 0.7V or so it will stop conducting through Q3, so the maximum voltage and minimum voltage across the motor will be of slightly different magnitudes.
Audio noob here. Many thanks for the info about the amp. I'll check it out, just haven't seen this variant yet so you really helped me.
Tbh I've never encountered wick that had enough flux on it. Adding flux always makes a massive difference.

Just wanted an opinion on how to fix this. Previous homeowners had a mutt that scratched this.
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when the sun comes up friend. I cut a piece of a felled apple tree to use as the post.
Yes there are putties and fillers you can use to repair this. As long as you're painting over it you should end up with something that looks ok.

Bare in mind that wood expands and contracts over time, so you'll need a filler suitable for it. Your local store should be able to advise.

Basic procedure is to clean, fill, sand then paint.

Question of my own though, if that post was structural and you DID replace it, how would you hold the stuff above up while you put the replacement in? Some kind of temporary bracing?
Confirmed liar.
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>Some kind of temporary bracing?

A floor jack post (aka Adjustable Split Jack Post/Basement Jack Post) is what you should use, but a couple 2x4s nailed together will do in a pinch.
>Why have you taken a photo, displayed it, screenshotted it and posted, when you could have just posted the picture.
People who do this should be drowned shortly after birth

How difficult would it be to mass produce aluminum guitars?

This company in pic related is a boutique company that charges about $2900-3200 for a guitar, and they have a huge wait list. There are similar boutique companies that charge quite a bit, too.

Besides what the market demand is (I have no idea what it would be), is it difficult to machine a guitar? In my mind, I always thought it would be easier to mass produce metal parts rather than wood, especially since wood seems to be regulated by environmental agencies. But I have no idea, was curious what your guys' perspective is.
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>the acoustics of the guitar body don't matter because you're amplifying it with a pickup instead of a sound hole
While this is somewhat true, the harmonics of the guitar's body itself will creep into the strings and change the sound that the pickups receive, doubly so for a piezo pickup. The resonant properties of an electric guitar body are less important than that of an acoustic guitar, but it will still make an audible difference. Worst case scenario, your guitar resonates and damps at frequencies that severely distort the sound.
Shut the fuck up i am a white supremacist kill yourself nigger im gonna shoot up a school in a nigger hood
This has already been done - the neck, anyway. Played one once. Very resonant. Tons of sustain.
Derp. Forgot link. http://uniqueguitar.blogspot.ca/2009/11/ovation-kaman-corporation-aluminum-neck.html
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Good luck, and have fun in prison. Maybe the Aryans will protect your boipucci, maybe not.

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I just got my forge and anvil set up and finished my first fuck up today.
Tried to make a bracelet, it came out uneven as fuck and I think I need to grind the circular texture off the hammer I bought but I'm excited to get better at it.

Any smiths have some tips or stories from when they first started?
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Where did you get your anvil, OP? Post pics of it and your forge set up.
Try Forging it around a steel pipe of the diameter you want it to be
Smooth out your hammer face. Set that hammer aside and never use it for anything other then forging. Keep it nice, it will keep your work nice.

You can reduce the amount of scale by using a reducing fire - run rich on fuel, it lowers the amount of oxygen in the fire, thus less iron oxide (scale) formation.
I would recommend putting the rat-tails facing outwards as a matter of comfort.

Having them inwards is going to be quite uncomfortable, and will rub/chafe a good deal.

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Why do normies praise this guys so much? The guy makes wattle and duab in the middle of a rainforest and rebuilds it every time it collapses. Is he just a revenue monkey?
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He has a nice video format.
idk man I'd like it if people complimented me at work, on my work. maybe I wouldn't skip so much if my workplace were a bit more positive
Liberal detected!
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>jealous nigger detected.
what would you rather

its comfy AF, fuck off

Construction worker here, is it possible to replace my throwaway utility knifes with a single good carbon steel fixed knife like pic related? I'm getting tired of having to buy utility knifes every month.

Mainly use my knife to cut asphalt roof shingles, drywall scoring, cutting plastic ties, and opening boxes.
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I too know the anger of only having shit used blades for shingles when you're close to being done, I hope it works out for you.
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OP, just buy the mora, in your pick, and keep the utility blade. Use the mora for most things but anything that's going to easily dull your knife(cutting tarps, rope, shingle, drywall, etc) use the disposable. Also a good pair of linemans pliers or spring loaded side dikes are worth thier weight in gold when you have to cut hundreds of small diameter things. I bought pic related and only had to replace them when they were stolen.
It's hilarious to see the mora hype, people pay 15 dollars for a plastic handle puukkos' and make youtube videos about them. The basic models cost 3,90 € in my nearest store and they have always been considered more just general disposable tools used from paint stirring to shitty screw drivers.

Maybe I should start a business by selling them to americans on ebay.
You might try a hawkbill utility knife and a rat tail file
Most people don't sharpen and hone their shit. This knife uses 1095 carbon steel which is at least a few magnitudes more durable and chip-resistant to generic 420 steels so once sharpened it should be able to hold an edge for a while.

That being said cutting gypsum board and roof shingles is very detrimental to any steel out there, don't know how often you'd have to resharpen for that kind if work.

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post some of your work
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these were different grades of stainless tigged together for exhaust manifolds for trains
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mild steel mig, big corner joint
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stainless mig
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aluminum tig, thin wall tubing
nice! whats that brown crap on the ropes?

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This is a steel thread stuck/broken in a brass female thread. How can I remove the steel? Would hydrochloric acid do the job? I read it reacts with iron but not so much with copper. But it also could reacts with the zinc in the brass.
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diddo. i've used ice picks or tiny nails to get a gap started then grab them needle noses.
salt water. let the steel corrode to shit and just break it off. should only take a few days
I've done the same as well. Use a pick to get a little up then use needle nose pliers to get the rest out. That three people telling you the same thing so I'm gonna say...

Try freeze it maybe. Brass and steel contract different temperatures and could free it up
what is that thing?

looks like a threaded brass insert in a plastic jug - but there's a plastic nut around the brass?

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Hello DIY, I recently purchased a Moto Mod for my Motorola Droid Z Play, the Hasselblad Camera Moto Mod. I did not know however that the Moto Mod was cosmetically deficient. There is a raised corner of a thin metal plate on the Moto Mod. What do you suggest I use to bond the metal plate to the hard plastic casing.
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>he bought a cell phone without a headphone jack
it has headphone jack...
The Moto Mod idea is the first idea in cellphone design that has genuinely excited me since the Blackberry and then the first iPhone. Is the Moto Z any good as a phone? If it's shit, then it's a shame about this.
I love the phone, the drawback is you have to carry attachments now.

Performance has been great, battery great, light phone

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Congrats on your mildly polished turd, OP.
thanks i didn't have a polisher so i just sandpapered it and left it burnished
do you think it would polish up if i actually "turded" it? I could definitely shove it up there overnight but i'm worried the crystals might cut and I don't think i could swallow it whole
what other options do i have?
Throw it in the recycling bin

Anyone here make their own soap bars? Just did my first attempt and seem to have goofed colossally.
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Been saponifying this and that like an idiot just to try things but I've come to realize that I really don't like olive oil as a base for soaps after making a few different types. I mean, it makes a nice bar of soap but the cure time is obnoxious and the oleic acid content is a tad too high, making the soap a bit on the soft side. Also kinda slimy if it gets too wet and tends to leave a gunky mess on the shower floor.

Current fav recipe (I'll post pics tomorrow) results in a funny bar of soap. Looks like plastic, really hard like plastic and is dense and heavy. When you first run water over it, it doesn't even get slippery right away. Creates no suds when scrubbing with it either and the "lather" is closer to just being a creamy milk. Kinda stinks when you wash with it too, like some unknown bodily fluid but I also didn't add fragrance to it when making it. When you wash away that "milk" though, you are squeaky clean.
>yeah man im rightwing
>but don't make any antisemitic or racist remarks, that's nazi shit
Will you ever go back? Because you need to get back.
>implying nat soc is right wing
I am saving this under bait category because I refuse to believe that even person who wrote this would take it seriously.
Currently reading so was my first thought, as well

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