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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

American here. I have about $60,000 saved up, and have a tremendous fear about being in debt. I would like to own my own place but the idea of a mortgage kinda freaks me out. I have heard about shipping container homes - I hear conflicting information about them. Are they just a meme? I honestly don't give much of a shit about the spaciousness of where I live, I'm more interested in cost-effectiveness, low maintenance, quality over quantity style living. It's fucking amazing how much money you have left over if you don't need to pay rent or a mortgage. So an idea I am kicking around is buying a cheap peace of land somewhere (I work from home so whereabouts doesn't really matter at this point), hook up sewer or septic, maybe add in some solar if there's enough money. Have enough land to add extensions at a later date if I need more room.

On a scale of 1-10 how stupid is my idea? Feasible or full retard?
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Use half the money as a down payment. If you put 20% down on a 150,000 and then save the extra 30,000 you will be able to be unemployed for 3.5 years without losing the house.
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Living in a container is a meme.

I live in Austin Tx you cocksucker.

Yes, this why everyone at the hedge fund i work at have bought houses with mortgages. They must be stupid to take advantage of rock bottom rates of 3%

You think youre so smart but really you're fucking poor and retarded....which makes sense why you're poor

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What is the contractor's equivalent of "spitting in your food?"
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Thanks for the You
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I use them alot for work. No strays and easily expadable. I'm not an electrician, tho, i work with maritime instrumentation.
You have to pick it up and put it in cart or dumpster.
Instead of "putting" it in there you throw it in hard to break. No extra work retard
>consent from the local council

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so what is /diy/ brewing today?
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Fukin Nice.
to avoid that you should let it rest in the bottle for a week or two. Taste it if its sparkling let it rest except for cider. You may put a blanket on the bottles against durt and so
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Last brew was saison
Dude. Refill your airlock!
Waah! My brew stopped bubbling after just 4-5 days! (last one took 8-10 days), what do?? Can I add more sugar? I fear my yeast might have died.. :(

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How to make a fleshlight that actually feels good to penetrate ?

Post links for instructions in the comment section
>implying no underage sex slave
All you need is some rope and ducktape anon
>not using WD40

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Hey /diy/, thought I'd share my first woodworking diy since I was a kid. Was sick of the garage being a mess, and didn't want to pay crazy prices for shelves, so made my own, and got my son to help to get him into some diy.

It's 3mX2mX0.6m. Made out of 35x90 structural pine, and some 16mm MDF that I got from gumtree.

Made a little swing away workbench on the front out of some spare MDF (where it was cut to fit the compressor), some spare 35x90, and some hinges.

Also chucked my spare surround sound amp and some little htiab speakers on it for some tunes while I fuck around. Still have to add a power board, and sort out the aread behind the bench a little.

Worked out well for a few hours work, and got an excuse to buy a circular saw.

Feel free to post your garage setups, keen to see what other anons have done.
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And this is with the bench set up.
looks good anon..does your bench just lean on those 2x4s? is it stable? could you fuck a fat bitch on it?
Preddy gud m9 I have that same tackle box. Thanks for sharing
My only criticism would be the beams are screwed onto the posts on the sides, ideally it should have a tenon or something that goes into the posts cross section for max strength, but yours is easy to make I guess
>you need tenons to build a fucking shelf to hold your junk
Post some of your master woodwork.

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Hey /diy/ I'm sure this isn't the right board, but I need help. I have a 1990 Whirlpool electric Dryer (Model# LE6150WSX0) and I'm having problems with it overheating.

Problem: The top, back, and sides, as well as my clothes, are extremely hot. It happened two days ago where I set my timer to 60 minutes, and I checked it at the 40 minute mark to find that the machine had stopped. I then hit the start button again, only for it to immediately beep at me and turn off. For reference I do not overload my machine and always clean the lint trap before each use.

So far I took off the back, cleaned the machine exhaust, the exhaust pipe, and outside exhaust vent (for reference they were not gunked up; in fact they had a light film on them). I then used my multimeter to test the thermal fuse and heating element, but I am confused by the results. The thermal fuse started at 1 for a couple of seconds, then jumped to the 10s, followed by 100s, then back to 1. This would happen every couple of seconds. Yes I did set my multimeter to 200 ohms of resistance (lowest setting). For the heating element, it took a few seconds for the numbers to calm down and it was hovering at 11.3/11.4. Any other parts I should test?

Also, I noticed the heating element case has a silver finish, but in the middle where the heating coils rest, the case is a burnt white (The photo will be in the next post). I'm thinking somehow the coils are grounding to the case, causing the whole machine to become red hot.

Any and all advice is appreciated. If you need photos or more info I'll gladly provide.

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every time i've seen a dryer cook itself it's been the front drum seal failing, causing hot air and lint to recirculate through the motor and element instead of going through the trap and out the vent.
Hey guys, OP here again with another update.

I went ahead and checked for lint build up on the blower fan, in the lint housing, and on that little exit grate for the hot air to escape (between the inside of the drum and the start of the lint housing). There was quite the build up, but now I have another problem - I can't get the lint housing out of the machine. Look at my photos and you will see there is a panel where the power cord comes out of that is preventing me from completely taking it out. As far as you guys know, is there a way I can? I've only been able to barely clean the bottom of the lint housing and the fan because it is in my way. I've tried taking it out from the top and bottom, but with no luck. Can it even come out? Also, do you see that little foam/sponge strip that is between the lint housing and the grate to the inside of the drum? Does that look like it needs to be replaced? Or can I just keep plucking the lint off of it?

Once I am able to clean those parts I will go ahead and run the machine again to see if I have improved air flow.

Imgur album link: http://imgur.com/a/eRlX9
There Are two phillips Screws under the lint filter itself after you pull it out holding the housing in.. it should be removed from the back kinda tough but trust me it comes out that way.

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I have an autismal amount of Marlboro™ Gold -packs.
What can I do with them? All empty.
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The bigger problem is that old mac! ;-)
Why are you hoarding trash?
This. Most of the time people at least pick something vaguely useful to ask about...
The Oneups are pretty okay.

You could pack wax and sawdust and shit into them to use as firestarters.
>what do with trash
I dunno anon its a mystery

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C'mon DIY, in true spirit of the board, shouldn't there be a torrent repository of all things home related?

>material lists
>project outlines and schedules
>all related to homes and other buildings
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While the days of ordering a kit home from Sears Roebuck are over - many lumber yards offer kits for building basic homes/garages/etc.

Additionally, read through the building codes in your area. The IBC/IRC contain everything you need to know about putting up a building - down to how many nails per connection.

Lastly, torrent Revit and dick around through the tutorials. You can generate a materials list from your model and it comes with a whole host of wall/floor/ceiling presets which meet code.

Most major cities in the US don't even require an architect or engineer to sign off if you stay within standard building practices.
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>Lastly, torrent Revit and dick around through the tutorials. You can generate a materials list from your model and it comes with a whole host of wall/floor/ceiling presets which meet code.


>down to how many nails per connection.
>using nails
Because screws are suitable in every situation lolololol. Shear they are.

Here, there may be some plans. I'm to lazy to go through all of it.

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I'm making a water distillery for camping (Fractional distillation).

I need to join this 1.5" copper pipe to this stainless steel water bottle. I'd prefer to be able to open it up for cleaning. I don't have calipers right now, but there's just about a Popsicle stick thickness of room between the outside of the copper pipe and the inside of the water bottle opening. Whatever I use will need to withstand high heat from a rocket stove, right up to the shoulder of the water bottle. Of course it needs to be vapor tight, but doesn't need to be pressure tight since it won't be under anything extreme pressure.

I was thinking of something similar to the the washers used to fit sink drain pipes together, only metal. Like a standard pipe insert for a compression fitting. Something I could tap into place for a snug fit, but still take apart by hand. Another option is to cut off a piece of the pipe itself and flange it so that its inside diameter is 1.5". Just making a flanged ring like that might work.

Any other suggestions or tips?

>pics fully related
Why not use something like high heat silicone bake-ware? I think a good portion of it is rated for up to 500F degrees and a single item would provide enough material to test a variety of shapes. Also it is food safe.
solder it
Right now, I'm trying to flange a ring of the piping and see how that will work...

Yeah, that was the first thing a friend recommended, but those crack under stress very easily.

I need to be able to open it. Otherwise, I'd be done since I have all the stuff to sweat pipe.
Have you tried simply to taper the joints snugly and apply a silicone-based lube like for glassware (glass-on-glass anyway)? Anything else would be overkill for this application I think
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Here is what I have so far. "Test 1"

It seems to work, but I need to make one that isn't all screwed up and slanted. The second try should be much easier. The theory is sound though. This would be much easier with some proper flanging tools for 1.5" pipe.

I don't have flanging tools large enough. I may end up calling the local hardware store to see if they have any 1.5" ID pipe. I could easily flange that for my needs and slip it over this one.

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I hope some1 can help me out for .

My idiot brother was clean my Flavor Wave Oven and ruin the temperature numbers, help me fix it, how to paint it back?
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sharpie cant wash it, or have to use it in each clean up?

1 dry transfer lettering
2 clear nail polish topcoat
ok :)
practice the procedure on something else first
doing the lettering (numbering) is tedious and if your aren't really quick when coating with nail polish it will dissolve the lettering
>one wipe with the brush and leave it alone
thx for the advice, i will practice first in similar plastic

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Does anyone know of a good tool that will work as a calculator, but also do unit conversions?

I'm trying to add two distances shown in fractional feet and inches, then convert to decimal inches.
I've been searching for hours.

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How about looking for a plugin that lets you enter your measurement in its native unit and converts it to your chosen standard. or just use a real design program like Solidworks™.
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SpeQ is pretty damn handy at that if you're on Windows
you forgot this one

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Not sure about max, but pretty much everything else in the auto desk suite has unit conversion baked in. When you're putting in a dimension, you can do things like "3ft + 3/32in + 7mm" and it will just werk. Can also do multiplication and division in those fields, which is often helpful.

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I ripped the magnetron out of a shitty microwave, wat do?
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>get 4 more
>aim them at a central point
>turn it on
>minute rice in 10 seconds.


Came in here to say that

I used to do appliance repair, a common thing is to rip out a magnetron magnet and keep it stuck to the inside of your truck to remagnetize your tools.

I had one taped to the end of a stick to reach down and pick up tools I dropped in appliances so I didn't have to take them apart to get my screwdriver back or whatever.

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sup diy
I have a fence that is about a half mile long through the woods

I want dirt under it the entire length what poison do I use to kill everything now and forever
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Until the grass grows over the plastic...
>plant knotweed every few hundred feet.
Why didn't you suggest kudzu?

pic related:
>This antique locomotive at Beekbergen, Netherlands is overgrown by knotweed. A few years before, it was free of knotweed
Kerosene, not even kidding.
And in a few million years the earth will be gone

Can you only nag and complain? Even Hitler's Final Solution did not work, and he had more manpower than you.

My Subaru outback is leaking oil @ a rate of 1 mile / quart. (not a typo)

I just changed the oil seal for my left camshaft because there was a less severe leak.

Before i could tell where it is leaking, now, nothing.

The underbelly of my car just seems wet with oil.

i don't understand how this much oil can leak without dropping to the floor. Anyone have any ideas?
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The oil light comes on when oil pressure is low. Usually that means low oil, but it could b other things as well, including leaks. The temperature guage on your dashboard is actually oil temperature.

You seem to have multiple problems going on at once. You should take it to a mechanic, problems like that are really hard to diagnose online.
>ok guys. update :
>I checked my oil level, the dipstick comes out soaked, 1 -2 quarts above the full line. I will bleed the oil out, but how could the oil sign come up? Is it triggered by too high of a temperature, instead of lack of oil? or both?
>The other day i lost a lot of coolant in one spot, i figured i poured too much, but i guess i am real low, i am overheating very easily.
>Or am i not getting enough oil through the system?
If you've confirmed that it had the right amount of oil in it, and not way overfilled. Now you're losing oil, but the dipstick is now reading 2qts high, and you're also misplacing coolant.....

Head gaskets
Made me chuckle
i forgot to add the missing coolant fact last night.
I already changed my head gasket 2 months ago.
It was very clear, there were white clouds of smoke.

It's coolant that leaked, not oil.
My oil level is tooo high, but the oil light is coming lit on my dashboard.
if i have high oil temp, wouldn't that be due to a lack of coolant?

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