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File: Winter Wood Heat.jpg (2.6 MB, 3276x3276)
2.6 MB JPG
Winter Is Coming Anon. Are you ready? The time for Lumberjack Testosterone is upon us.

How many cords will you burn? Do you buy or buck? Show us what you are working with: Splitters, Chainsaws, Axes, Mauls, & Saws. What are you cutting? What are you burning? Where & how are you sourcing? What are you burning in; make, model, year?
197 replies and 48 images omitted. Click here to view.
>>
>>3012966
well fuck, burning these is WORSE than straght up wood?
>>
>>3012966
Just throw one in every once in awhile and burn normally between times. This normal burning should keep any weird buildup at bay.
>>
>>3004582
What's a good retard-proof woodstove that you can use to heat up a small/mid sized room, cook food, boil water, and doesn't need much maintenance when setup? Something that won't burn down your house/cabin if you decide to sleep for 6 hours.
>>
>>3013035

if price is a concern a defender 1100E can be had for about $700. the only negative in your list is that the top isnt one-level flat all the way across, so it doesn't have a full size cook surface. I think jotul and morso make models with a larger cooktop, but they are pricy. defender is plate steel. cast holds heat better for actual heating purposes.

you can get a full-on wood cookstoce, but they are pricy. we have one (OP). it is a built-in masonry style. freestanding is more common. check Lehman's for current production models and pricing. woodcookstove.com is also good.

it really depends on your price target first then space, then how often you want to use it for cook vs heat, and finally what size space it needs to heat.

units made after 2020 are FAR more efficient and chew WAY less wood ber BTU of output.
>>
>>3011819
what are you even talking about retard, stfu and go takke the 5th grade physics class you;ve missed.

File: IMG_1676.jpg (64 KB, 800x800)
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I’m a sign holder, who stands on the street corner, trying to spread a message. However, my arms get tired when I hold a sign for over an hour. How can I go about this?
The sign needs to be held up in the air high, or else a lot of cars won’t see the sign.
Legally, it cannot be on a stick that touches the ground.
I was thinking of having it stick out of a backpack. How can I realistically go about this?
Or, do you guys have any other ideas about how I can get a sign above my head?
>>
>>3012818
>Go to army surplus store
>Buy cheap external frame backpack
>Zipties
>>
>>3012818
extend the pole and stick it in your pants from the back. run it through your shirt for extra security so it hugs your back.
and if you really want to secure it better. attach a hook to the end of the stick and clench onto it with your butt. will gain glute strength doing that. you want people to follow you, you gotta prove you believe in your own message.
>>
>>3012818
Usually a flag carrier has a sling to carry the weight of the sign. But hey go on and strap it to your torso.
>>
>>3012818
>Or, do you guys have any other ideas about how I can get a sign above my head?
Get baggy clothes, then bend a pipe so it runs parallel to your arm hidden under a pullover, all the way down through a pant leg. The weight would be carried completely by the stealth pipe, even your arm.
This idea is so radical that it triggers AI guard rails, so I can't show it (and I'm too lazy to draw)
>>
>>3012818
shove the sign up your ass. no one wants to see it.

File: bathroom_small.jpg (1015 KB, 3000x4000)
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I recently discovered that if I turn on my shower on max heat and let the hairdryer blow into the room my student aparment's bathroom essentially turns into a steam bath.
>picrrel
Tbh I enjoyed this almost daily over the last week.

Uhm /diy/ ... how bad of an idea is that?
6 replies omitted. Click here to view.
>>
If you have a Rossmann buy their sensitiv shaving foam, it's almost as good as Nivea and costs under a buck
>>
>>3013076
That's old. I switched to an electric shaver ages ago.
>>
>>3013066
The likelihood of stone holding mold is higher than drywall. You fucking moron.
>>
>>3013005
You can already see mold forming in the ceiling
>>
>>3013206
Black mold is a terrible thing, need techs with space suits to come in and clean it up if it's a bad infestation. You will slowly lose IQ points the more you are exposed to it, on the bright side they come back when not exposed - chronic exposure is dangerous. Discovery was made in a fungi lab a some mycologist had his vent tubes directed into his co-workers lab for awhile until it was sorted out.

File: file.jpg (625 KB, 2121x1414)
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If you were starting over at 30 more or less, what trade would you go into?
45 replies and 5 images omitted. Click here to view.
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>>3005264
PLCs is easy as fuck
>>
>>3005217
I'm 30. I have a degree in software development but ended up in higher tier support and later a cloudops role. Many teams including mine were made redundant and now I can't find an IT job. 7 years total experience in IT with 1 of those being as head of IT for a small college so like sysadmin. I'm in Ireland.

I was considering doing an automation and robotics course to get into scada so maybe I could branch out into fixing automation lines. I don't know if the jobs are there really but fuck it.

I'm a built guy and can handle practical jobs easy but I'm not keen to wreck my body either. Any advice for me?
>>
>>3005217
Underwater welding
>>
>>3006778
>>3005731
>>people cant go on...
>>be the guy people cant move forward...
Wouldn't car mechanic then be a good choice?
>>
>>3005731
>Lift technicians for instance have to be grandfathered in and it's a totally unique skillset
Shit, I was just on a tour of a major construction project a few days ago and the project manager showing us around actually mentioned that, he said they make absolute bank but it's basically impossible to get into the union unless you're related to somebody who's already in it.

File: chrome_PZRmH7imAf.png (1.58 MB, 677x891)
1.58 MB PNG
Post your boxes
49 replies and 17 images omitted. Click here to view.
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>>3012888
>t. people in the year 2110 sucking up the very last drops of usable hydrocarbons from the earth to use as feedstock for the individual wrappers for each screw of shrinkwrapped plastic IKEA chairs, depleting the only source of a thousand medicines and wonder substances forever
>>
>>3009330
is she in a box?
>>
>>3008835
its not how much you got, its how high you stack it
>>
>>3008842
>is that stencil sprayed or what?
Looks like a router sign maker then painted. Probably sprayed then sanded but some dedicated autistic could brush it all in.
>>
>>3008838
I'm gonna put my dick in there and there is nothing you can do about it...

File: araña.gif (11 KB, 135x105)
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How should i start?, what to use?, pls tell me, and btw how much i would late in learning it?
9 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
>>
Learning a language is not difficult.
It just takes a long time.
A very long time.
Years of study for hours a day just to misunderstand anime half the time.
>>3012650
Duolingo is good for the fundamentals and lessons.
You will need external study for the bulk of the learning.
I learned french mostly with it within a few months. Korean in Korea without it. And now have been putting off learning Spanish for my wife's family where I haven't actually sat down to learn.
>>
>>3012839
I'm european and we learn two foreign languages in school, plus optionally a third.
If a bunch of demotivated schoolkids who never learn vocabulary at home can learn enough for it to stick somewhat, then an adult who actually puts in effort can do it too.
Personally the goal is mostly to just get good enough to where I can consume media in that language and from there I passively learn through immersion usually.
>>
I tried a more structured diy approach a long time ago but gave up out of boredom and a lack of application, since I wasn't really reading anything new or entertaining.
Started again a year or so ago and built on that base by going through genki+quartet and taking notes. Learned a good bit of kanji with kanjidamage and i'm working through an anki vocab deck now. I'm sure there's better methods preferred by /djt/ now but getting into that rabbit hole seems tiring. That said, I think joining others or at least lurking might help you.
My motivation is to read manga that got dropped and we have enough tech that it's not terribly difficult but you have to limit your use of it to ensure you learn. I type out the whole chapter in nip for reading/kanji recognition practice and basic comprehension (using OCR as needed; I found there's a lot of phrases and idioms I'd miss otherwise), then translate it with dictionary or grammar guide help, and finally check it with deepl, google, and ichi.moe.
Actually reading new stuff vs just studying is a big reason for me to keep going.
>>
>>3012842
Children are far more adept at learning a language than adults are.
>>
>>3013186
I think the whole neuroplasticity argument is super overstated.
The reason children learn languages fast is usually because they spend a lot of time doing so.
In school, you're looking at ~5 lessons/week, which over a year is like 150-200h. Repeat for 4 years and you're approaching 600h. Outside of school kids will mostly learn languages through immersion (relatives who speak it or something) which also quickly adds up in raw time.
In terms of guidance that should land you around B2 level.
Frankly the advantage in neuroplasticity of kids is easily overcome by having the discipline and more structured approach to learning of an adult. There's some argument that learning proper native pronunciation gets harder as an adult, but "good enough" is easily doable.

The whole "kids learn languages faster" thing is an excuse by lazy adults who want to justify why it's impossible for them to do so, so they don't have to try.

File: garbage freight shit.jpg (243 KB, 785x1024)
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>no results found

post up your latest buys
things you want but dont need
christmas gifts
useless junk or good shit or whatever it is
brand flex or name and shame

ignore bepis and seig
310 replies and 124 images omitted. Click here to view.
>>
>>2966094
Got a pipethreader off Amazon for $50, whole range of dies up to 1 inch. The company's got one that I borrow but I was on vacation and didn't feel like running up there to grab it. It kind of sucks. It works, chip ejection is abysmal for some reason. It cuts pretty good when it's new but we'll see after a few jobs. Long slivers, they get caught easily and I have to back it off 2 or 3 threads to clear it. Afraid I'm going rearrange my face when the 2 piece handle with internal threads comes apart. Ran some new gas lines at my aunts house to replace some shitty refrigeration tubing someone rigged together years ago. Really I think it's a piece of shit but it works and the case is very small, my drill box is bigger. I made enough money with it already to cover the cost so whatever.
>>
File: pLuMbIEr.jpg (2.81 MB, 3013x3470)
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>>3013261
i needed one a few yrs ago and didnt want a garbage freight turd set so looked on epay for a few days until a 00 set to 3/4 came up for reasonable money. the one i got had a metal carry box that was utterly beat to shit but it musta lived under the seat of a work van because the dies were essentially brand new. think i paid just under $50 delivered for it which wasnt much more than hf wanted at the time
i see buckets full of pipe dies at auctions all the time and they often go for peanuts but i dont thread much pipe so ive held back shithoarding them and i just thread 1 offs on the lathe if i need
so i guess the point of my blogpoast is now that youre not in a pinch you can watch and buy a ridgid set used for a deal if you see it
>>
>>3013264
I've used the harbor freight one before and it's garbage, we have ridgid at work. I needed it the next day and that was my problem. Didn't have time to run around. I see ridgid sets on Craigslist still for around a $100 with just 1/2 3/4 1 but they're all out in the boonies. I never have side jobs like this just pop up but she called and said she had been smelling gas every so often and wanted me to check. Flared fitting failed, instead of just chopping and flaring a new end or putting a swagelok on I told her I'd do it for $80 and the cost of materials, ended up being like $60 in pipe and fittings including one of those yellow hook up hoses for the drier.

I almost pulled the trigger on a $200 used set a couple years ago, 3 handles all the way up to 2 inch but I never see myself threading anything above 1 inch. Never seen it in residential and every 2 inch at work is socket welding flange or off the shelf nipples.

How much of a pain in the ass is threading pipe on a lathe?
>>
>>3013152
I splurged on a fein once and man its so good. I now have that one to the workshop and now I have a crappy ridgid one for the garage and it's a real downgrade. It doesnt have a bag, and all the accessories are bottom-dollar plastic trash that don't even work well. The more powerful motor is just for the consooomers who just buy the thing with the highest hp they can find, doesn't actually help at all.
>>
>>3013268
i get the trouble justifying a hundred lb box of shit that never gets used. of course i have poor self restraint for tools though
>How much of a pain in the ass is threading pipe on a lathe?
its a bit of assache if i use the taper attachment to thread on the angle. and it comes out goofy looking like the picel because a die cut thread stops abruptly at full vee depth whereas the lathe is harder to stop on a dime so the thread ends up longer but it fits the same
usually i just slam a couple rough passes without taper then use the die to finish it to size as its much easier on everything involved

File: paint sink.jpg (49 KB, 643x1288)
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I want to paint my bathroom sink to a new color. I have looked around for help. And everyone seems to be divided.

One one hand, you will be told that it is a bad idea. They claim that the paint will chip off. And that the wrong chemicals as well as time will remove the paint.

On the other hand we have people showing their painted bathroom sink years afterwards. Claiming that it is all fine and that the paint has stuck well.

The Internet is really divided. And I cannot tell if it is a good idea or not. Anyone know?
>>
it depends on the sink and the paint and the prep work, if all those are done right then it works. If you do any of those wrong then it comes off with normal use.
>>
>we have people showing
most of the stuff you see on the internet is fake
>>
>>3012637
There's a specil coating you get... In Europe a lot of bathroom stuff is still cast iron, it's coveted in some kind of enamil... They have restoration kits or something...
>>
>>3012924
As someone who has lived in a lot of rentals I can tell you that those things do not work. They go on thin. If you are just trying to brighten up enamel that is dull and has minor scratches that are okay. They don't wear nearly as well and come off eventually. If you are trying to fix a chip, crack, or anything like that they suck. They are barely thicker than paint and you can see the damage under it. The instructions say to build it up in layers to fix chips but I have literally never seen that work. Every layer you add shortens the lifespan of this shit.
>>
>>3012637
Paint adheres in 2 ways, mechanical and chemical. Mechanical means it's gripping to something, chemical means it's basically dissolving the surface and binds with it. Unless you have some kind of plastic sink you won't get chemical attachment, even if you did and I'd be concerned with weakening the sink. Mechanical would depend entirely on surface prep you'd want to scuff the surface up so it feels slightly rough, this gives the paint something to grab on to. One benefit to your idea is that some sink materials are porous so your paint may be able to permeate them well enough to hold once you remove whatever glaze or coating they have on them. This is something I've never seen done but it may be possible. Don't look at paint necessarily, look at coatings. I've seen tons of industrial coatings for various materials that are extremely chemical and temperature resistant. They're expensive and come in ugly colors. Depends on your sink. If it's cast iron their may be some enamel pain that will work well with proper surface prep, of itxs ceramic you may be able to re glaze it with a tinted glaze. Just simply painting it will probably give shitty results.

File: brakes.jpg (57 KB, 640x478)
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I am looking for your experiences with how long you have ground down brake pads and rode on them metal on rotor.
And I also want to know what eventually happens if they keep being driven on

"Mechanics" have told me that sometimes the pad will spit out and you can lose brake pressure.
One guy said the pad will spit and then the caliper will start digging into the rotor

I still have not gotten a clear answer as to what exactly happens and how long it happens.
Please provide a detailed understanding and time line etc
Also feel free to say something dumb like "Just do your brakes idiot" to prove to us all what a child and parasite to society you are
>>
You’re the pioneer in this field, do it and report back pussy
>>
>>3013103
Was this written by some low end Chinese AI? Jesus fuck, the formatting. The missing punctuation. Oh, and then the fucking dumbass question itself.

>Please provide a detailed understanding and time line etc
Sure. Seeing as you provided zero variables, the answer is anywhere from 'it could fail the next time you apply the brakes' to 'it could be just fine for the next 42 years', with a bit of 'it could go at any time' in between. The brake pads are a variable. The vehicle is a variable. The road conditions are a variable. The speeds you are traveling are a variable. The type of breaking you are doing is a variable. The road conditions are a variable. Whether you are breaking on a downhill versus an uphill versus level ground is a variable. Whether your locality uses salt or sand to clear ice from the roads is a variable. It all fucking matters, dumbass.
>>
>>3013105
>variable
Yes sir . Please provide all the variables of conditions and your experience of the time you drove your moms town and county mini van until its grinding brakes failed.
>>>3013104
U da pioneer

Yeah at this point I am just going to keep driving on them to see what happens and document it so the world will finally know what happens
>>
>>3013103
Metal-on-metal braking is going to have significantly worse stopping power than pad-on-metal. Additionally, the surface of the rotor is going to get fucked up by metal pad, it is going to dig divots into the surface and introduce high and low spots which will further degrade braking performance as you're reducing contact area between the pad and the rotor. There's a reason brake pads aren't just big metal blocks that last forever, and that reason isn't just to introduce another wear item on the vehicle to nickel and dime you.
>>
I once installed a brake pad backwards because I'm a retard and I noticed immediately because the car didn't stop at all. I don't think your brakes will work once you're out of pad material.

A breaker bar is a breaker bar, right?

ITT: Shit tier tools
99 replies and 29 images omitted. Click here to view.
>>
File: 0203161453b.jpg (368 KB, 1280x960)
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>>3008964
>>3008982

Another pic just for clarity. Couple pieces of angle on a suitable sized pipe. Space them to work with the thickest handled wrench you might want to use it with and it should be golden.
>>
>>3009011
No need, the first picture was very self-explanatory.
Usually I don't go hunting giant pipe though, I use a second wrench and put the box end into the open end of the wrench i'm using, just sometimes the angle isn't ideal and I don't like putting all that force on one half of the open end.
>>
File: maxresdefault.jpg (90 KB, 1280x720)
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That's the way to do it.
>>
>>2967819
Fippy
>>
File: lexel.jpg (173 KB, 1080x812)
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this shit
https://warosu.org/diy/thread/3006631#p3008560
trying to seal sill plates in the rain and this worthless shit doesnt even try to stick to the board. just balls up and drags along on the tip. and when you touch the glob to try and smear it out it sticks all over your hands and the skilsaw and everything else you touch after except the fucking board
worst caulk ive ever used

File: hupdate.jpg (121 KB, 1600x1200)
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I no longer believe the Vaughan 23oz is the best general-purpose hammer. I prefer the Vaughan 19oz straight handle smooth face. This is now the correct opinion of hammers.

As you were.

Puzzle-test error: There is no object, only an image.
19 replies and 9 images omitted. Click here to view.
>>
File: ti1.jpg (332 KB, 1200x1600)
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Okay I paired a CF2 handle with a titanium head and this might be my new regular hammer. I'd just like it more if the head were made in USA.

>>3008063
It's a good solid hammer. I prefer a magnetic nail start and wooden handle. Such as Vaughan CF1.
>>
File: IMG_2026-10-15-161603.jpg (536 KB, 1080x1080)
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Dalluge 2110 is as good as a framing hammer can be. the Italians truly are masters of form and function

t. Irish/German Amerimutt contractor
>>
Whats with the ducktape
>>
I own three different hammers and none of them are a framing hammer. Somehow, it's never come up that I should need one.
>>
File: hammertrio.jpg (229 KB, 1725x1200)
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>>3011573
>Dalluge 2110 is (the best or equal to the best of) a framing hammer.
I already have a 23oz, 19oz and 14oz CF pattern hammer. Why should I want a 21oz version? (I don't.)

I've been using the 14oz as I like that it's lighter in my tool belt. What I don't like about it:
>Made with outsourcing.
>I was pronouncing the name similar to deluge however the packaging specifies that it's pronounced similar to duh-phlegmgob.*
>I often pull a nail by wedging it into the hammer claw and levering sideways. Works well most of the time even on finish nails or nails with the heads broken off. However the titanium head is soft enough that it damages the claw to do this.

Why the adjustable wrench?
Why do you like that type of pencil? I like a 'number 2 lead holder' even though it holds graphite.
What shoes?

*some artistic liberty taken though not much.


Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.

File: 284.jpg (44 KB, 684x584)
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>want an extra socket at my house
>trades guy wants 10k
>ask another guy for a second opinion
>he wants 20k
15 replies and 3 images omitted. Click here to view.
>>
>>3011091
You do see that sometimes (mostly commercial premises) but for homes people don't want to lose that much floor space.
>>
>>3010951
Is this some eastern euro / balkan remodel work thats ~15 years old on a building thats 50 years old?
>>
>>3010979
>need the equipment
One 30 Euro anglegrinder and a 10 euro disc for stone cutting?
>>
>>3011305
Oh please dont get me started. Everybody knows american houses are made out of literal ice cream sticks carpentry, best wishes and literal fucking bubble bath foam. Your drinking buddy‘s 15 years old dog has better foundations and less shaky structures. You faggots lose billions every years to fucking squirrels because of how ridiculously mediocre your buildings are. Your houses are so fucking gay they moan when you drive nails through their plywood walls.
>>
>>3011305
we are making fun of american "houses" for that exact reason

File: Solar.png (107 KB, 240x240)
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I have a feeling in the future houses "decorated" with solar panels like this with complete disregard towards looks will be a mark of an impoverished area
106 replies and 19 images omitted. Click here to view.
>>
>>3011175
Yes.
>>
I want to buy a pallet of panels, but then it's still another 10-15k in parts just to DIY it all.
>>
Doing a starter set up for my father that he will expand later or build a diy one, at this point I just want a plug and play battery for a "portable system". Pecron 5000 base unit and 2 strings of 3 bifacial 590w sungold power in series. Putting them on minuteman solar portable stands that I'm going to anchor down. Any suggestions on how to get wires + connectors through a wall in a water proof way, I do not want to wire my own connectors. I'm aware of cold weather voltage issues and am adding proper disconnects. Is there anything I'm missing?
>>
>>3012917
drill a hole, run wire, fill outlets with silicone
you can hammer a conduit or small plumbing pipe through for future use and silicone the same way
>>
>>3003413
Nice DIY!

Doesn't need to look aesthetically clean, depending on locale, unless the Ms' complaining outweighs the effort to do so.

More examples like this chan...

File: j1065304040.5.jpg (101 KB, 1200x900)
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All processes of garage kits are welcome here from sculpting, building, to painting. Kits take a long time from start to finish so post your progress as you go along. Garage Kits have a variety of subject matter from fantasy creatures, anime, animals, Mecha, vehicles, or original characters.

Interested in Garage Kits?
YunYun's Garage kit guide:
https://buyfags.moe/YunYunFan_Garage_Kit_Guide
Muntoe's Garage Kit Compendium:
https://myfigurecollection.net/blogpost/2360


Helpful books
フィギュアの教科書:
sculpting: https://www.kinokuniya.co.jp/f/dsg-01-9784775311592
painting: https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/%E8%97%A4%E7%94%B0%E8%8C%82%E6%95%8F-ebook/dp/B07GZC8C1V

websites for unpainted gks:

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
212 replies and 67 images omitted. Click here to view.
>>
>>3010309
That looks good as hell anon, can't wait to see it fully

>>3010141
I wonder if Blackjack has any decent garage kits. My ex and I watched the OVAs and they looked so good
>>
Does anyone here have experience repainting a figure?
I basically want to turn a figure into another character. I purchased a 20cm prize figure as the base so its not crazy intricate or expensive if I fuck up. I have never tried anything like this before and am aware of my skill limitations. If possible, I hope to leave the exposed skin/face areas intact as the factory paint is probably going to be nicer than what I can achieve without an airbrush.

Some things I will have to do:
1: repaint the clothing to match the new character
2: change the eye color
3: repaint the hair
4: give her a haircut if feasible
5: add accessories not found on the original figure such as a sword

If anyone has any experience with this, I would appreciate some input or sharing a before/after so I can manage my expectations.
>>
>>3010925
Are you making Esdeath or Oldrin?
>>
>>3010928
Neither. But I am doing this for the same reason of no one making figs/kits though. I will share more as I get further along. I am gathering supplies still. I need to source the accessories I want to add probably from some random junked figures before I do anything else.
>>
>>3010585
>Blackjack
Now that you mention it, I'm not sure I've even seen any that wasn't pinako

File: mushrooms-in-buckets3.jpg (47 KB, 600x600)
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Since we got a gardening thread now it seems only right to get ourselves a mushroom thread.

https://blogs.cornell.edu/learning/how-to-grow-mushrooms-a-beginners-guide/
https://www.almanac.com/plant/mushrooms
https://northspore.com/pages/mushroom-growing-guides

What are you growing?
What are you trying to grow? How do you avoid contamination?
117 replies and 27 images omitted. Click here to view.
>>
>>2995151
Good for you for growing nameko, they are a great mushroom.
>>2995296
dry the grounds if you are not going to use them right away
>>2995451
typically nutrient is around 10 to 20 % per dry weight.
>>2998348
mold...persistence is key, it never goes away because it's airborne as spores, bathrooms are wet. 70 % isopropyl alcohol in a squirt bottle will suffice for spot mold but generally if I was to sterilize a workspace i would use 10 % bleach in a pump sprayer and nuke the room.
>>
The internet has triggered a mushroom growing renaissance, before back when i learned it was a thing that had to be learned from someone directly because most people couldn't learn it from books alone.
>>
>>3012638
>dry the grounds if you are not going to use them right away
That will be 250 kg grounds at current rate. I use it in my garden during off season (against slugs and for mulch earth worms) until spring, and I'll give it a new try.

>typically nutrient is around 10 to 20 % per dry weight.
So I can add 100 g grounds to a 1 kg block of medium? How soo can I add more?
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File: Mushroom_overlord.jpg (39 KB, 638x736)
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It looks kinda cool how the mycelium slowly takes over. Fascinating creatures.
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>>3009462
Oh boy. That anon is being very nice when trying to help you. Just because you can't see spores and other sources of contamination floating around you every single moment of your life, doesn't mean they aren't there. Let's entertain the notion that you truly sterilized your grain and sub (shouldn't have nutrients in this btw, that's what the grain is for) by boiling it. Every single second you're handling it, it's being exposed to contamination, shit is constantly landing on it that you can't see but it's there. This is why people seal the jars/bags immediately after they remove them from the PC. It sounds like you're boiling shit, moving it around in an open environment afterwards and then putting it in a box that isn't sealed. If you're too broke for even poor boy tek then you need to solve your financial issues first buddy. Also your tek is absolutely fucked. Listen when that other anon says that your substrate has Zero business being in your mix until your grain is fully colonized. Yes, there are bags that have both things, but those are sealed and even when using those you inject into grain and don't mix the contents until your have a good portion of your grain colonized. Those bags were also sealed after being sterilized.
Growing mushrooms is like a gambling game in which you can tip the odds in the mushroom's favor. The more variables you manipulate the closer you get to making sure the mushrooms you want, always win.
Hope this gets through to you.


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