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File: 1727970054325364.jpg (45 KB, 800x583)
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Do i have to do this manually on every corner, every crack, every screw, every hole, every panel?
seems like too much work, couldnt i just tape it or something?
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>>2880960
>attempt somewhat labor intensive job
>be surprised when it's labor intensive
u r retard
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>>2880960
You don’t have to. You could look into something like trusscore, or some other kind of panelling.

If you wanted, you could cut accurately, finish the edges with U-banding and evenly space the screws. Then paint the screw-heads.
Basically making panels.
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>>2880960
don't forget to use tape and also gouge out any cracks and fill them with different grades of compound
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>>2880960
That's the easy part. The worst part for an amateur is by far the sanding stage. And you still won't know how it'll turn out and show until you've primed and then painted. There's sanding and corrective stages in between each of those steps.
>>
not OP, im looking to insulate my detached garage, and I dont want to waste any time filling in the gaps, but would like a white glossy finish.
is there some kind of wallpaper that can be applied or can I just paint the raw drywall?
its a garage, so whatever
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>>2881124
Yeah, just paint it. You probably want to use primer first though.

I was just finishing a bunch of drywall, and it’s actually BULLSHIT that drywall doesn’t come pre-primed.
Baseboards do.
The paper finish is fragile as fuck.
>>
Ive been a maintenance guy at two different places, did commercial and residential. Never was great at drywall. Thought after doing a whole 500 sq ft house i was nearing competence.

The most I ever learned about drywall, what changed everything, was a conversation I had in a bar. A local shithole tavern.

The guy was claiming he was the only guy in the state (small state, totally believable) landing the contracts for mudding and taping the schools, mostly elementary schools in our state. He was talking it waa just him and his brother, but he had to stop working with his brother, because he was leaving too much and needing to sand. He was saying that took too long. And you could see every scratch when you paint so he was having to go back and fix it.
So at this point were pretty drunk, and Im like so what? You dont sand? Just a buncha light coats or what?

I will never forget the way this hammered pillhead, who was claiming to make big 5 digits in days per school with like, no overhead turned to me, and slurred/grunted through like the most powerful shit eating grin
>holds up fingers
Two coats.
>waves arm
NO SANDING

Now, im sure part of that tale is a little tall, but every time I do drywall, Im like, how the fuck did that motherfucker do this no sanding?
And I dont leave it till you dont need to sand.
It takes longer, but you dont need to sand if you are careful.
TWO COATS. NO SANDING.
what the fuck man. But when it goes right, that is all you need.
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>>2881185
can confirm. pros don't sand, it takes three times as long with cleanup.
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>>2880960
What are you actually asking?
You don't *have* to do any of that, you could just slather on some joint compound over any gaps/holes, paint it, and call it a day. It won't look good, but if you don't care then why bother?

You could also skim coat the entire wall with compound. I honestly don't think it's much more work and looks the best.
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>>2881216
True, the main exception being some tight areas where it's hard to get a good, long, flat sweep with a wide knife will usually have some ridges...but if you scrape back over those with a taping knife at the right stage of cure you can usually flatten them out enough that the primer coat will fill and even out any small scratches and blemishes. Bottom line is that anything you have to remove could have just not been put and left on there.

The key is knife skills (including selection for the task at hand) but also being patient, methodical and knowing how to mix the material for optimal spreading/ flattening within the time you have to work it.

Old time finish plasterers didn't sand, they had to be skilled on all those points just to do basic "acceptable" level work, and the really trick smooth finishes took an expert who cost more than a bunch of Mexicans and sanding/cleanup costs, hence the change.
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>>2881235
pro plasterers don't work on rehabbing old junk unless its for some historic building. those contracts your guy was talking about are all new walls where the drywall guy is probably only a couple rooms ahead and you can give him hell for leaving too many screw heads up.
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>>2881235
Speaking of knife selection, the one thing that causes more problems than anything for noobs is using too narrow a knife.

Unless it can't physically fit the space or hampers a smooth stroke, your knife cannot be too wide...with the right mud mix and low/flat angle to the wall a wide knife will spread the material without it ever getting close to the edges where they can dig in and cause ridges.
That angle and slight adjustments in pressure from side to side also let you bend the knife so those outer edges won't dig into the fresh mud you just applied and need to blend into as you progress.
When done right the sharp edge of the knife rides up on the smooth layer of mud it is applying; it "floats" on top of that wet stuff, hence the term "floating out".

Anyway, most people who don't do it for work hate the idea of spending for a 12" or 14" knife (and the wider tray you need) but the difference over a typical homeowner tool box 6"-10" taping knife is night and day for getting smooth surfaces and minimal need for sanding.
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>>2881237
I have no idea who you are talking to, but clearly neither do you.

PS any real plasterers working now are almost exclusively working on rehabs of old work in shiity condition and/or as part of a remodel that requires integrating old plaster and new work. And no, most of those jobs aren't on legitimate "historical" buildings, they're just old enough to have originally been built with plaster walls and nice enough to preserve.
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>>2881185
This story is embellished a bit, I’m sure.
Definitely, your mud lines should have a goal of not needing sanding, but in reality you are still going to sand typically.

But first, you’re usually looking at 3 coats.
Even screw spotting usually takes 3 coats.
For one, drywall mud shrinks, unless you’re doing everything with something like sheetrock 90 which is unforgiving shit to a diy’er. It doesn’t shrink a lot, but that’s used for the first coat/fiberglass tape embedment. Also you don’t want to sand this shit… it’s hard, scratchy, and the dust is pretty terrible.

But typically we’re using pre-mix that takes a while to dry for topcoats.

If you’re doing a a wall where there’s a window at the end of the wall that shines light down it, you’re doing a tight finish and sanding for sure. If it’s a closet, you can get away without sanding.

If you do a wet topcoat, you also have to sand because of the rough way it dries. On parallel light or level-4 finishes, you skim the drywall so there’s no exposed paper.
Where mud meets paper, sometimes you’re sanding because the wet mud dries instantly and causes a ridge. Sanding depends on lighting, and the paint used (you are sanding for a gloss finish, less so for a flat finish, and out in record time for popcorn ceilings)
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>>2881286

Also let me follow up by saying pros have a lot of skills following a specific process that gets good results quickly. We can do it in the dark.

A diy-er is not going to feather out mudlines as wide as we will, but we do it because we go over it with a 9” electric sander so we don’t scuff the drywall… so mudlines everywhere are at least 9”
>>
>>2881116
Hard part is filling with mud just enough so you don't spend a day sanding and vacuuming the dust. Wipe down your coats while still wet and you will have very little sanding to do. Don't use premix. Or mix in as much hot mud as you can to reduce shrinkage and extend work time.

Sanding is easy if you're not a retard.
>>
>>2880960
>couldnt i just tape it or something?
the joint he's doing is taped
>>
This has to be bait, but
>can't I use tape or something
Yeah that's an integral part of mudding drywall..
Possibly you should read one piece of info about a topic before you try and half as it.
>>
all this work so you don't see lines after its painted

personally
i'd skip it



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