Do i have to do this manually on every corner, every crack, every screw, every hole, every panel?seems like too much work, couldnt i just tape it or something?
>>2880960>attempt somewhat labor intensive job>be surprised when it's labor intensiveu r retard
>>2880960You don’t have to. You could look into something like trusscore, or some other kind of panelling.If you wanted, you could cut accurately, finish the edges with U-banding and evenly space the screws. Then paint the screw-heads.Basically making panels.
>>2880960don't forget to use tape and also gouge out any cracks and fill them with different grades of compound
>>2880960That's the easy part. The worst part for an amateur is by far the sanding stage. And you still won't know how it'll turn out and show until you've primed and then painted. There's sanding and corrective stages in between each of those steps.
not OP, im looking to insulate my detached garage, and I dont want to waste any time filling in the gaps, but would like a white glossy finish. is there some kind of wallpaper that can be applied or can I just paint the raw drywall?its a garage, so whatever
>>2881124Yeah, just paint it. You probably want to use primer first though.I was just finishing a bunch of drywall, and it’s actually BULLSHIT that drywall doesn’t come pre-primed.Baseboards do.The paper finish is fragile as fuck.
Ive been a maintenance guy at two different places, did commercial and residential. Never was great at drywall. Thought after doing a whole 500 sq ft house i was nearing competence.The most I ever learned about drywall, what changed everything, was a conversation I had in a bar. A local shithole tavern.The guy was claiming he was the only guy in the state (small state, totally believable) landing the contracts for mudding and taping the schools, mostly elementary schools in our state. He was talking it waa just him and his brother, but he had to stop working with his brother, because he was leaving too much and needing to sand. He was saying that took too long. And you could see every scratch when you paint so he was having to go back and fix it. So at this point were pretty drunk, and Im like so what? You dont sand? Just a buncha light coats or what?I will never forget the way this hammered pillhead, who was claiming to make big 5 digits in days per school with like, no overhead turned to me, and slurred/grunted through like the most powerful shit eating grin>holds up fingersTwo coats.>waves armNO SANDINGNow, im sure part of that tale is a little tall, but every time I do drywall, Im like, how the fuck did that motherfucker do this no sanding?And I dont leave it till you dont need to sand. It takes longer, but you dont need to sand if you are careful. TWO COATS. NO SANDING.what the fuck man. But when it goes right, that is all you need.
>>2881185can confirm. pros don't sand, it takes three times as long with cleanup.
>>2880960What are you actually asking?You don't *have* to do any of that, you could just slather on some joint compound over any gaps/holes, paint it, and call it a day. It won't look good, but if you don't care then why bother? You could also skim coat the entire wall with compound. I honestly don't think it's much more work and looks the best.
>>2881216True, the main exception being some tight areas where it's hard to get a good, long, flat sweep with a wide knife will usually have some ridges...but if you scrape back over those with a taping knife at the right stage of cure you can usually flatten them out enough that the primer coat will fill and even out any small scratches and blemishes. Bottom line is that anything you have to remove could have just not been put and left on there.The key is knife skills (including selection for the task at hand) but also being patient, methodical and knowing how to mix the material for optimal spreading/ flattening within the time you have to work it. Old time finish plasterers didn't sand, they had to be skilled on all those points just to do basic "acceptable" level work, and the really trick smooth finishes took an expert who cost more than a bunch of Mexicans and sanding/cleanup costs, hence the change.
>>2881235pro plasterers don't work on rehabbing old junk unless its for some historic building. those contracts your guy was talking about are all new walls where the drywall guy is probably only a couple rooms ahead and you can give him hell for leaving too many screw heads up.
>>2881235Speaking of knife selection, the one thing that causes more problems than anything for noobs is using too narrow a knife.Unless it can't physically fit the space or hampers a smooth stroke, your knife cannot be too wide...with the right mud mix and low/flat angle to the wall a wide knife will spread the material without it ever getting close to the edges where they can dig in and cause ridges.That angle and slight adjustments in pressure from side to side also let you bend the knife so those outer edges won't dig into the fresh mud you just applied and need to blend into as you progress.When done right the sharp edge of the knife rides up on the smooth layer of mud it is applying; it "floats" on top of that wet stuff, hence the term "floating out".Anyway, most people who don't do it for work hate the idea of spending for a 12" or 14" knife (and the wider tray you need) but the difference over a typical homeowner tool box 6"-10" taping knife is night and day for getting smooth surfaces and minimal need for sanding.
>>2881237I have no idea who you are talking to, but clearly neither do you.PS any real plasterers working now are almost exclusively working on rehabs of old work in shiity condition and/or as part of a remodel that requires integrating old plaster and new work. And no, most of those jobs aren't on legitimate "historical" buildings, they're just old enough to have originally been built with plaster walls and nice enough to preserve.
>>2881185This story is embellished a bit, I’m sure.Definitely, your mud lines should have a goal of not needing sanding, but in reality you are still going to sand typically.But first, you’re usually looking at 3 coats.Even screw spotting usually takes 3 coats.For one, drywall mud shrinks, unless you’re doing everything with something like sheetrock 90 which is unforgiving shit to a diy’er. It doesn’t shrink a lot, but that’s used for the first coat/fiberglass tape embedment. Also you don’t want to sand this shit… it’s hard, scratchy, and the dust is pretty terrible.But typically we’re using pre-mix that takes a while to dry for topcoats.If you’re doing a a wall where there’s a window at the end of the wall that shines light down it, you’re doing a tight finish and sanding for sure. If it’s a closet, you can get away without sanding.If you do a wet topcoat, you also have to sand because of the rough way it dries. On parallel light or level-4 finishes, you skim the drywall so there’s no exposed paper.Where mud meets paper, sometimes you’re sanding because the wet mud dries instantly and causes a ridge. Sanding depends on lighting, and the paint used (you are sanding for a gloss finish, less so for a flat finish, and out in record time for popcorn ceilings)
>>2881286…Also let me follow up by saying pros have a lot of skills following a specific process that gets good results quickly. We can do it in the dark.A diy-er is not going to feather out mudlines as wide as we will, but we do it because we go over it with a 9” electric sander so we don’t scuff the drywall… so mudlines everywhere are at least 9”
>>2881116Hard part is filling with mud just enough so you don't spend a day sanding and vacuuming the dust. Wipe down your coats while still wet and you will have very little sanding to do. Don't use premix. Or mix in as much hot mud as you can to reduce shrinkage and extend work time.Sanding is easy if you're not a retard.
>>2880960>couldnt i just tape it or something?the joint he's doing is taped
This has to be bait, but>can't I use tape or somethingYeah that's an integral part of mudding drywall..Possibly you should read one piece of info about a topic before you try and half as it.
all this work so you don't see lines after its paintedpersonallyi'd skip it
No, you can pay someone to do it all while you can just complain about them not working faster like all faggot boomers do.
>>2880960There is a wetback in the home depot parking lot right this very second who will drywall your entire house for $25 and a sandwich
>>2880960>complaining about the laborWait until you find about about the quality of your finishing and the dust control.
>>2880960Let me guess? You from the USA?
>>2880960Oh totally. my liberal hippy aunt and her "yes dear" husband did some drywall for my mother. like you they were lazy retards and thought they were clever because the took drywall tape and elmers glue to cover the 1/2 to 3/4 inch gaps in their shitty sheetrock they installed portrait.later us kids poked holes in the tape.so yeah do whatever you want toy waste of sperm.
>>2881185>>2881286You can "sand" it by floating it with a damp sponge easily and with no cleanup while it's still wet. Does 90% of the work already. I thought this was well known, in my slavshit cuntree where drywall was only introduced in the last decade even my granny would know about this because we've been doing it on plaster for hundreds of years, and you shouldn't fix what ain't broken.
Why do mutts go through so much effort to build houses out of paper with some random dust sandwiched in between? Just use good thick plywood for the interior walls and screw it down.>B-BUT THEN I CAN SEE SCREWS OMFGwoman brained thinking
>>2888101Drywall is basically pre-formed plaster sheets used even before roman times.Modern drywall, in addition to gypsum, there’s fiberglass fibers in it for added strength.It’s fire resistant, fairly heavy, reasonably soundproof, and cheap.Saves time on manually plastering everything.
>>2888101The proper alternative to drywall is aerated concrete.
>>2888182The proper alternative is lath and either earthen or lime plaster, if you live in a wooden house. I grew up in one of those, it was pretty good.
>>2880960They make paper tape for this
>>2882219I mix two-3 scoops of mud in a gallon of water based primer then go over than in a second coat of just primer. 1/2-3/4 nap. It's like skim coating without the big blades. Shit goes on so smooth and paint is such garbage now anyway that it just fucking works. You still gotta at least do 1-2 coats of mud though, and you can't leave tape uncoated.
>>2880960why is this thing so fucking popular? it's literally cardboard and chalk used as a building material. what's next, marshmallows?
>>2880960do I need a special dedicated sander for drywall or is it a meme any one will do? I have a cordless sander/polisher that is basically a 7'' angle grinder with adjustable RPMs (300 - 5000, I think) that takes velcro sanding discs or polishing pads. will it do? I already have too many tools
>>2882215>Possibly you should read one piece of info about a topic before you try and half as it.not him, but what's the best way to learn stuff like that for DIY? e.g. drywall, tiles, brick laying, panneling, when to use one or the other, which glue or mortar to choose, how to mix it properly, etc. are there any books or tutorials? youtube vids take forever to get to the point with memes, jokes, anectodes, life stories, message from sponsors, etc.
>>2888982Just use a sanding sponge. You go over it very lightly. You can do a whole house with one sponge.Go for the fine or extra fine.You want to press lightly which results in a flatter surface.I find you have to use it a while before it’s conditioned—meaning new sponges will drop big grains of abrasive.Remember: you want a goal of a “sand free” finish.Don’t forget about using your drywall knife as a scraper before sanding to remove lift-off lines, chunks, and lines caused by two knife passes to straighten out anything wavy.The power tools, in this case, are expensive (couple of thousand) are for pros. If your house is 10,000 sq ft, (like 50,000 sq ft of drywall) then yeah, by all means, go crazy but you can do a lot of damage quickly so practice on someone elses house first.
>>2888983> best way to learn stuff like that for DIYTo do it.People that have gym memberships always make me laugh. I’d say“Come over to my house instead, we’re hanging 5/8 12’ sheets of X firecode drywall on a 21’ foot ceiling with no drywall lift”
>>2888989>Just use a sanding sponge. You go over it very lightly. You can do a whole house with one sponge.>Go for the fine or extra fine.sweet, I bought a bunch of those from Bosch, just in case I may need them for something, once.>The power tools, in this case, are expensive (couple of thousand) are for pros. If your house is 10,000 sq ft, (like 50,000 sq ft of drywall) then yeah, by all means, go crazy but you can do a lot of damage quickly so practice on someone elses house first.do those expensive drywall sanders have any specific features making the only powertool suitable for the job, that can't be replaced with e.g. adjustable RPM non-oscilating orbital sander with a proper disc to speed up some larger rougher areas, or is it just marketing?
>>2888995As in >>2881288, those sanders are optimized for drywall, and usually come or are used with a vacuum (also especially for drywall—drywall dust kills regular vacuums and tools). We have a guy that just does it, it’s very quick. All our joints are at least 9” wide for the sander, and we leave shit we know the sander will get.We don’t leave any “rougher areas” —you won’t need any power tools except a beefy drill to mix the compound before using it.We use it for a consistent finish, the powersander is taking off about .25mm and any ridges and sequesters the dust. We leave the mud .25 mm thicker than we normally would on our own homes if finishing manually.The only case a diy-er would need a power sander of any kind is to fix a major fuck-up.We just do it for a consistent finish as part of our process.
>>2888992but how do I start and learn some proper basics without wasting time on meming youtubers or skimming through drywalling history entries on a wiki, so that I won't end up standing next to bunch of pannels and buckets with no idea what to do next?
>>2888999>As in >>2881288, those sanders are optimized for drywallbut what does it mean exactly? the mode of the operation, specific RPMs?>The only case a diy-er would need a power sander of any kind is to fix a major fuck-up.that's what I had in mind mostly, as these will definitely ensue. I'm just wondering if I can use a tool I already have in a pinch, just in case e.g. I come across a part where manual sanding would be too time consuming, or is it completely unsuitable for something like that. the min RPMs are pretty low (300 - 5000), so that should minimize the risk of doing a lot of damage>The only case a diy-er would need a power sander of any kind is to fix a major fuck-up.I already have a cordless mixer, because I killed several drills mixing glue
>>2889003> I killed several drills mixing gluethe drill indicates it’s time to stop by emitting a special smell called “burning winding lacquer”
>>2889003> what does it mean? RPM?It’s plaster. It’s softer than you can imagine. When you’re doing touch-ups, make sure your fingernails are short or you’ll gouge it. One single full rotation would probably cut a 1/16” into it.Most of your sanders are designed for wood.In addition, it doesn’t use sandpaper. It uses an open abrasive mesh so the dust can flow through.we get back a couple of pounds of dust.the vacuum has special multiple-layer filters.
>>2889003> should minimize the risk of doing a lot of damageYou wouldn’t use a sander unless you were doing something like removing a popcorn ceiling, and even that is going to be 99% scraped off by wetting it first.The finish plaster can be re-wet, and just scraped off in case of major fuck-ups. sheetrock 60, less so, but still that’s the way to go.
>>2889014it was usually of a things becoming lose and the drill falling apart variety, not the engine
>>2889000Good lord do I feel that image.Honestly youtube is great for learning stuff like this. The people who post drywall tutorials are generally not the kind of people who spend 5 minutes making soi faces into the camera yelling "LIKE AND SUBSCRIBE".If you're interested in drywall specifically, look at The Vancouver Carpenter.
>>2888977based for quick sheds
