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What's the most autistic trade/skillset and why is it Robotics/Industrial automation?
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Good news is that most electricians are too dumb to into PLCs and that's why it seems people with IT backgrounds get hired for those jobs.
>can do simple math excellently
>fail miserably at anything beyond basic algebra
>top of my class for a BSc in electrical/automation engineering
what does it all mean?
sounds like you're a dumbass
I am a golden god!
Based Allen Bradley enjoyer. What kind of industry uses so much analog IO and no safety PLC?

IT people don’t want to wear a hard hat and work boots. We have autists from many backgrounds but hardly IT

t. palletising guy

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Looking to get into school to gain a degree in CS but figured that until I have enough money saved up to enter school, I can do the learning (via textbooks) now to prep me for later, so I am wondering;
>1.) Any CS Major or Graduate, what or how would you modify this map?
>2.) Most importantly, I am seeking good college text books that covers these blocks of learning
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Planning this much? You're doing it wrong. Reading books? You're doing it wrong. CS comes exclusively from drive and hobbyism. You should be coding things that you find cool right now. Doing bullshit planning is a waste of time. If you aren't already coding you should find another career path, one study intensive. CS favors natural aptitude.
Zoomers arent soft, schools hold them back for the most retarded students.
why do you want to study computer science? you don't seem to like math much considering you are spending your entire first year without a real university-level math course and you don't even do linear algebra until 3rd year, which tells me you have 0 intention of taking a real math course at any point. just study electrical engineering or do a diploma in programming at community college. im afraid you may be falling prey to a decades=spanning marketing campaign
>If you aren't already coding you should find another career path, one study intensive. CS favors natural aptitude.

This because you would be competing against people for whom (at least early on) coding is a joy and a hobby. The purpose of work is sufficient money to RETIRE and there are still many ways to do that but not by following the herd off a cliff.

Should I get suspenders for my occidental tool belt? And if so, what kind? I'm leaning towards the leather ones with the sheepskin pads on the shoulders. I have really bony shoulders and it's painful to carry a lot of wood on them so i was hoping with the extra padding it might help with the pain a bit.
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Since we're having a suspender thread...
What are some ways to wear them when not at work? They're great for pants but it looks weird to have them over your shirt nowadays. Are the undershirt ones any good? The softer ones meant to go over bare skin that is.
i have badger belt with suspenders and carpenter bags, can carry so much shit in them.
My tool belt and contents are worth $2k lol.
Take the badgerpill bros.
Formwork carpenter btw
why do you care what others think?
t.belt+suspenders guy
Get any suspenders and those shoulder pads used for backpacks

I have an AC luxation and they help a lot to keep weight off the protruding collarbone. But get any suspenders preferably ones that allow you to hang stuff from the front straps
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Anyone have an idea what brand this window is? I bought a house and the retarded clean-up guys busted the glass out of the lower sash. To make it worse they took the sash out and threw it away. I can't find a brand or label anywhere. I'd rather find a replacement sash than change out the whole window.
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i don't get it
this window clearly has all it's glass
This is not the broken window, it is one just like it in another room.
the equipment those windows were manufactured on is rusting away in a dump, the people who manufactured it are dying of old age, and those windows haven't been sold in decades. You can either rinky-dink another pane in there with duct tape and silicone or buy a whole new window frame with glass. I suppose if the aluminum frame of the broken pane isn't damaged, you could find a glass shop that can take it apart and stick a new pane in it.
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>To make it worse they took the sash out and threw it away.
>I suppose if the aluminum frame of the broken pane isn't damaged, you could find a glass shop that can take it apart and stick a new pane in it.

Sad, many such cases.
Oh, that? Yeah, that's one of the old Serkin's. You know what the old jingle said: You can always tell a Serkin cause the neighbors see you jerkin hahahah
No, really, they're easy to spot because all those old Serkin's windows have the

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Previous thread:>>2759901

Here we discuss microcontrollers (MCUs), single board computers (SBCs), and their accessories, such as Atmel mega and tiny AVRs (Arduinos), PICs, ARM boards such as blue/black pill STM32, ESP8266/32s, RP2040, Raspberry Pi, and others.

For general electronics questions (power supplies, level shifting, motor driving, etc.) please ask /ohm/.

>where can I find verified quality microcontrollers and other electronic sensors or parts

>but that's too expensive
aliexpress.com (many parts here are fake, particularly specific parts out of stock in the above sites)

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i have looked at risc-v before but i don't want to go spending more money at the moment when i already have gear at home, even if gear at home is memealicious. i intend to get into it at an indeterminate point in future, along with all the other shit i will absolutely definitely possibly maybe get around to.
>well i'd download a car if it could
Same here. My point was that unlike back in the day, when you could bit-bang a floppy drive (something I did back in school), modern desktop PCs are really fucking complicated and the Pi is a closer to a modern desktop PC then a mcu.

That said, I encourage you to keep at it. It seems the Pi has a JTAG https://pinout.xyz/pinout/jtag
>RPI literally hogging the term pinout
"Makers" were a mistake.
why would you use an ancient and obsolete imu
Because it's cheap and what more do you need for a very simple drone? Especially if you were thinking of taking apart wii controller for your IMU.

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How can I install mosquito netting on a European window that opens inwards? I live on the 4th floor, so I obviously can't install it from the outside.
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the cheap ones that are made of fabric + magnets
I've got the opposite problem of installing one on a window that opens outwards, but the handle is bulky and extends past the edge of the frame.

At the moment I just have that magnetic tape around the edge of the window and I pull a fabric mesh taut through it after I open the window, but it's a hassle to put up, a hassle to take down, and a hassle to close the window if it starts raining.
1. Check to see if the manufacturer of the window makes their own nets.
2. See if you can screw thin brass semicircles to a generic net and just clip it to the outside of your windows. Depending of your seals this may be the simplest option.
3. Do the same but with some string you can pull taught, so you're tying the net to the inside. You only need the net when the window is open right? Do just run string through the window.
4. Use a 3M permanent adhesive patch mounted on the exterior aluminium to mount the net on fully externally. Glue floam to the net frame so it seals.
get a net with frame made to order
those are installed from the inside the home anyway (they are held outside of the window with metal clips that can almost be seen on the pic - I'm too lazy to find a better pic)
I have tilt-turn windows and this method just werks
Put a sign in front of your window, " No mosquitos allowed" Those fucking little Dracula's.

these are the dumbest mfers, just gaping at you. fuck off, there is nothing to see.
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There is no Code specifying direction, but hospitals/medical want it ground-up.
not in the hospitals I have seen.

the only places I have seen them upside down, was in a datacenter, and in my house on the switched outlets. In chicago they are mounted sideways.
maybe if you're some paranoid faggot who's worried about coins blowing up all your plugs.
The forbidden plinko game...

Do pumps create flow or do they create pressure?
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fuckin nerds
its better to think about pumps as an energy transformation device regardless of how pretentious that sounds, lemme explain myself:
prime mover provides mechanical energy to pump elements (kinetic energy to impeller or piston), typically through direct contact this energy is transferred into the fluid as kinetic energy imparted on the fluid, depending on the pump type and system configuration a portion of that kinetic energy stays as is (flow) and the other gets converted into potential energy (static pressure or head) now this also works for peristaltic and other similar PDP or any pump that rely on a moving cavity but instead of the energy being imparted on the fluid directly its imparted into the cavity.
i think its a bit silly to say one causes the other because they are affected somewhat independently from each other, yes the total head is affected by velocity of fluid (Hv) but that is not actually flow rate, even if its a part of it, and conversely if we look at the equations of flow rate pressure doesn't play any part of it at all. it is better to use the electrical power analogy or mechanical power analogy as they are actually closer to reality and are much more powerful intuitively speaking than ohms law or ...
> muh one causes the other

well that doesn't really work, restriction will always exist google friction factor and friction head (Hf) and viscosity, resistant to flow is an inherent property of fluid systems.
>if we look at the equations of flow rate pressure doesn't play any part of it at all
do you mean absolute pressure or something because a pressure difference absolutely does
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Let me tell you about this son of a bitch. It's a double reciprocating pump (that is to say, positive displacement) for high viscosity slurries. In theory, knowing what the volume of each cylinder is, one should be able to count the number of strokes it completed over a period of time and calculate the volume it sent. In reality, the volume pumped is always 70-90% of what that calculation says it should be. This is referred to as its efficiency factor, and it's a bitch because it's always changing. It varies depending on the head pressure that the pump is pumping against, the viscosity of the slurry, and the frequency of routine maintenance. There's so much that can affect the efficiency factor of a pump like this that there's no real way to predict what it will be except to look at previous performance and assume it will continue to perform that way. If I guess the efficiency fator incorrectly then some corporate know-nothing sees a discrepancy in reported performance metrics and I have to explain to them for the twentieth time what the efficiency factor is.
The moral of this story is that even the simplest pump you could devise on paper will not function the same way in the real world. This is why arguments over the principles of flow vs pressure are worthless, and you should all stfu and look at a pump curve.
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>Its in the kpsi but singke digit l/min. How the fuck does that not mean "doesnt make flow primarly"?

Remove the restriction. How much pressure do you have now? What percentage of your initial 2000-4000psi number is that? What is the flow rate now? What percentage of your initial flow rate is that? Of those two relative numbers, which changed more?

Put another way: You can tell, by looking at a PD pump by itself, how much fluid it's going to try and move per cycle. You don't need to know anything else about the system it's hooked up to. Why the fuck would you say a pump primarily generates pressure when the answer to "how much pressure will it produce" is "it depends" and the answer to "how much flow does it produce" has a definite quantity? Vice versa for a dynamic pump.

Ignoring, of course, the non-idealities of reality that some others ITT are um ackshually-ing over.

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Trying to restore a swede jacket that belonged to my friends husband.

Ordered a special brush from amazon. Seems really stiff like it's going to need a really good brushing.

Question: The guides online say use vinegar and water to remove stains. What if I put it in the wash with a bunch of vinegar? The whole thing is pretty run down.
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it's a joke about swedes
peak swedish
Bump. Any advice? Got a brush in the mail and some vinegar. I take it from the apparent stiffness of the brush that you've gotta go pretty hard all over?
Vinegar worked well. Just got the brush in the mail but it doesn't seem to really do anything.

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>commercial brewing legal advice edition
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or that you need or prefer distilled water. those fermenting buckets in the corner are of course unrelated, you would never put alcohol in there because that is illegal haha
It's illegal to own a stil in my state without a commercial license, so saying you're making something non-alcoholic wouldn't get you off the hook
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>$90 import and shipping fee
>still cheaper and more volume than most I can get locally
thanks, that was a big help. I didn't think about looking on amazon, I looked only at local sellers. the price is comparable, for 50L it's €220 (no discount)
they also have smaller ones indeed, I'm still gonna make up my mind but this has been a big help.

semi related general question but I read that the first bit that gets distilled is full of methanol and is toxic, is there somewhere I can read more about this?

>10L for one person
>>10L for one person
oops I forgot to change it to 5L per person, point still stands (for now until it gets crazy drunk)
that's input, not output, so you'll get something like 3-6 drinkable liters from 50 liters of input as far as I can tell
as for the methanol question, home distillers forum is probably your best bet, I'm sure they have a frequently asked by newbies thread that covers all that stuff. the big thing I know is that you can't get rid of all of the methanol, some will be present throughout the run, but it's apparently in a bit higher concentrations in the beginning and end of the run. but I'm pretty sure I've also read/heard that the amount present in the first bit are more things like acetone and whatnot rather than methanol. here's a thread I found quickly
I will say though, I've not spent enough time on the site to know if it's perfect, I just know it's THE resource for home distillers. taking a look at their wiki, it's got a bit of fud concerning freeze distillation, which is surprising since they're pretty good about dispelling other common distilling myths. at least they don't regurgitate that bs about apple palsy that everyone else does when talking about applejack, but I'm getting off topic

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Hurr durr shipping container homes are a bad ide-

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>all you really need for a temporary setup is an extension cable and a power strip
And you're limited to a grand total of 20A, but realistically only a % of that.
>portable heaters or AC units
You've eaten up most of your amperage on your wal-mart power strip.
>Great Stuff would seal it up
Not even the best option of all the redneck fuck ups you could pick off the shelf at lowes.
> Plumbing would be impossible to do in a practical manner
At this point, I'm surprised you're not shitting in the corner since you're being a shut-in heathen about the rest of it.
Please never go into construction or attempt to build your own house. It would go horribly.
Ah! There's a country where that's traditionally common but I can't remember which one!

Like they tend to have a central kitchen and dining building and a courtyard type area, then they have living spaces as satellites around. It was Iceland or Finland or Norway or something.

iirc, Japan also had a design like this with some of its old manors. There weren't hallways within the building. The rooms were all connected via a covered porch that encircled the central open-air courtyard, so you technically had to go outside to go from one room to the other.

They didn't used to have central heating back then, so the only rooms that were really warm in the winter anyhow were the ones with fireplaces.

Oh, and that's a lame container building design. You can well the things together and cut passages between them easily and avoid having to go outside at all.
>Electric would be easy if you already have power on site because all you really need for a temporary setup is an extension cable and a power strip.

The smart play (all DIY problems have been solved by someone else so find who does that well then copy success) is to have an outdoor service panel on your pole with 240 and 120V outdoor outlets before you even place whatever you plan to use for structure, so I did that for one of my shops.

Then you can run SOOW cable etc plugged into the 240V outlet to feed welders, compressors etc and run little shit like lights off the 120V breakers until you fit a subpanel in your structure, so I did.

>Plumbing would be impossible to do in a practical manner.

Instant water feed is easy using farm grade (never buy shit green garden hose because it doesn't last thus costing more over time) garden hose, garden hose thread brass adapters etc for flexible plumbing. Hose is easy to shorten, splice, fit tees etc to and of course place inline valves by using brass hose barbs, so I do.
For example when my washer feed to my garage blew out (last owner did a shit PVC job) I bypassed all that with farm grade hose in about a half hour and when my back permits will replace the buried pipe with pex or perhaps just bury the hose (after potting the metal parts in epoxy as they can corrode). I've had farm grade hose outdoors for ten years without degradation.

If I needed emergency hot water I'd connect a temporary hot water heater the same way. Mine already has garden hose fittings and gate valves from my recent heater replacement so I can either have hot or cold water outdoors (hot water pressure washing is nice) or if working in house shut off the house feed and have hot and cold water for showering via more hose.

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>it is a monumental task you ding dongs. it's not as simple as cutting a hole in the wall and adding a door. the structural strength of a shipping container is build into its walls so you have to reinforce the wall of the container in any point you add a doorway.

You clearly never studied containers so stow your ignorance. Container doors are a long-solved problem like everything else but apparently no one looks for real examples.Container strength is a combination of design features and cutting personnel doors is standard practice.

Container personnel door frames exist to join door to sidewalls or end wall or an end door. Place door on stands of choice, or a couple of steel drums etc. Cut suitably wide angle to frame door, and use shims between frame and door to set clearance so you can open the door after install.

Pieces of angle or flat bar bridging door (with hinges attached) to frame can be clamped to frame set door/frame relationship. Weld frame and tack weld hinges at the easy areas then lift frame off to weld the rest. Weld a lifting eye or two to the top of the frame so you can lift it and slide into its hole. Zip disks, recip saws, a 00 tip on a torch or ideally a plasma cutter make short work of holes.

If your man door is in an end door, choose the end door on the side the other end door holds closed. A simple bracket and pin to the floor can hold your end door with personnel door firmly closed (necessary because the two locking bars on that door must be removed to install and use the man door). None of this was difficult.
isnt that illegal

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Is there anyway how to get Solidworks for free? Solid Edge has free license for hobbyists but I would like Solidworks since its more popular.
I dont want to pirate it unless its only option.
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the only way to get it for free is if you're a student and your university has an agreement with dassualt systems to hand out free installs to students
otherwise just pirate it
idk about this "phoning home" shit people are talking about, maybe if you have a domain-joined computer and install a pirated version they'd be able to tell and would try suing your work. I've been pirating it for years for making simple parts to 3d print and have never gotten a letter or anything
although I do run it on linux so maybe they're just impressed I got it to run inside wine
buy a Rhinoceros cdrom for $40 on ebay
A guy I knew in college was using a pirated version of Solidworks and one day he got an email from them listing every single time he used the software. They know, and they will do something about it eventually.
Someone suggested running sw on a vm, I tried installing our legit sw copy on a vm at the office but it didn't let me.
I use it in a vm (as linux is my main os) and it works fine. It doesn't take much to configure a vm to make it not look like a vm to things like sw

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previously: >>2784240

>I'm new to electronics. Where to get started?
It is an art/science of applying principles to requirements.
Find problem, learn principles, design and verify solution, build, test, post results, repeat.

>Incredibly comprehensive list of electronics resources:
Additional resources below:

>Project ideas:

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>9500 mAh phone battery
Should we tell him?
i need to do 120VAC mains input to 3-33V output at 5A maximum. my main concern is size and low EMI radiation. can i get away with single switch forward or should i be looking at two switch forward?
what could be wrong with a simple headlamp with a pushbutton on off switch that turns off on its own after a few secs then refuses to turn on for a while
>what could be wrong with a simple headlamp with a pushbutton on off switch that turns off on its own after a few secs then refuses to turn on for a while
Failing battery.
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anyone know how to get SPICE to simulate a noise profile like this? stick some white noise behind a high-pass filter maybe?

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No, I'm not a tranny, a janny, or a woman. What have you made? Any tips/resources?
>Thanks for the help anons
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>does anyone DIY..
Yes. Don’t believe the commercial moisture lies Products with alcohol and fragrance are garbage. If your skin is dry use olive oil. If your skin is dirty make soap with olive oil and lye. This problem has been solved a millennia ago.
keked hard.
I use straight lanolin (thick grease consistency) for chapstick, dry skin balm, hair styling, pretty much anything topical. its cheap and also a good base if you want to get more fancy. refined has a slight sheep scent which i like, but there are ultra refined ones that apparently have no scent
Checked. OP is in shambles.

Checked. FP is in shambles.

An anon recommended a temporary solution to a cheap sprinkler system with a $5 timer but I can't find it edition.
I'm thinking of getting like 5 hoses for all my trees too
Anon other tips?
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What are your plans when those branches break off? They will eventually and you do not have a choice in that matter. Do post when it happens.
I'll sell the house before it happens. Already had the most dangerous branches removed when I bought the place and it wasn't that much.
>Get about 8 feet of polyurethane 60 psi drip tube 1"
>buy 4 90° barbed pvc fittings, two "T" fittings, and two inline "T" fittings. All 1"
>buy a bag of 1" otekir ear clamps
>buy 1 hose attachment you can screw into one of the inline T's
>buy 3/4" irrigation nipple
>buy 1 hunter 5000 roter head
>Cut poly pipe into a square attached with the 90°'s
>cut two sides of the square and add a pipe to run to each side using the "T" fittings
>In the middle of your newly added middle pipe cut in your inline T.
>Attach nipple to hunter 5000 head
>Adjust for a full 360° spray. Use a number "3" nozzle (they come with the heads, so does a key for adjustments)
>now choose any side on your square frame to cut into and throw in another inline T.
>Add hose attachment and attach hose all the way go the bib
>Add a hose timer to set up automatic watering at your choosing

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Cozy tree, but remove soon
Troid Stoid.

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