I have a copper 1/2 pipe with a temporary sharkbite fitting. I don't have the tool to remove it nor can I get my wrench on the pipe or behiind it on the plastic part to pinch and pull it by force. Do I absolutely need to pinch the plastic part of the sharkbite fitting to be able to pull it off, or can I just put a wrench or pliers around by the cap? I'm trying to avoid destroying a metal cover or cutting into drywall just to pinch the plastic to pull it off. Is it possible to remove these without having to pinch the tiny plastic part circled in the image?Plumbing is about the only DIY category that doesn't have its own general here for some reason. Figured I could maybe get the ball rolling with a question and a provide a thread where people to ask their own since I feel bad for killing a thread for just one question.
>>2870849Just cut it off. There should be enough play in the line to crimp it on to a proper fitting.
>>2870849>How do I remove a sharkbite without the thingTake apair of adjustables, set the jaws on the outside of the pex, push against the first plastic sticking out of the sharkbite with your thumbs. It will release.
>>2870849They don't pinch, they push in. If you have a piece of 1/2" copper pipe 1" long you can split it lengthwise, deburr it, then use that as the removal tool. You'll have to open it enough to get it around the plastic pipe then squeeze it closed again. Plastic pipe might work too, I just don't know how sturdy it is.
>>2870856>crimp>proper fittinglmfaolearn to solder, not difficult
>>2871095>solder pex2/10 for making me reply
>>2871139>I have a copper 1/2 pipe
>>2871472I must have missed that. It's pex in the picture. Either way sharkbites are bad and I would never use them.
>>2871513Sharkbites are okay. I've got some that are 10+ years old and still doing fine. I wouldn't cover them up, but if accessible they're fine.
I’m dealing with a back to back plumbing problems u see our sink. First the ptrap was knocked loose and weeks later we found the area had been covered in food slush and roach eggs. While fixing that issue, I must have knocked against the RO system and a pin leak formed due to old plastic tubes. A week later realized everything was soaked. So I’ve pulled out all the soaked mdf and drywall. I have a few questions I hope someone can help with. 1) when you work under cabinets is it possible to pull out the t-column or whatever? It’s a bitch working in that small cubby - is this just business as usual for plumbers? 2) the cold water turn off is nearly impossible to reach and is covered on the front by pipes. I’m thinking of sacrificing a vice grip to attach to it just in case there is an emergency sometime. Is there some kind of tool or alternate option here? 3) I’m not going to replace the bottom wood- the extra depth under the sink will be handy for storing stuff. Does this cause any plumbing issues? Like does the wood come in handy as a first stop for leaks or something. Is it strictly cosmetic? 4) my insurance agent said their most common house insurance claims are from RO systems. Anything special I can do to prevent breaks in the future? I guess replace plastic every 5 years or something ?Thanks
My water bill had a higher usage last month and I can hear the sound of running water in one part of the house. No water damage apparent. What do I do?
>>2871534I should add, this is a manufactured house from 1990.
>>2871517I strongly disagree. I avoid buying sharkbite brand anything because of the awful product they unleashed on the market. Sharkbite fittings should be illegal.
>>2871513>I must have missed that. It's pex in the picture./diy/ posting rules: Thou shalt not include a picture of your actual situation.
>>2871597Okay. Like I said, 10+ years, no issues. The only guys I've heard talk about them being completely horrible with no redeeming qualities at all are plumbers, and it seems to be related to profit. But they could have changed since I put mine in, so you could be right I guess.
Can anybody drop any good channels on plumbing from YouTube? Everything goes, even if it's just fail videos or something.
>>2871534Find it and fix it. It can fuck up your foundation. Time to tear open some walls!
>>2871606You should listen to the advice of plumbers when they're talking about plumbing. Sharkbites usually leak before 2 years pass and I've seen them fail a lot sooner than that.
>>2871732I don't actually own the house and plumbers won't work without permission from the owner. I don't want to deal with this but it's becoming impossible to ignore. The running water sound is getting loud. I'm a recluse and I don't want people judging my living space.It's a manufactured home and there's no water damage to the walls so I think the the pipe is underneath and it's the floor must be opened up. The sound is coming from right where the washer/dryer is.
>>2871606They will work in the mean time, but you're going to feel very stupid when you knew you had 30 minutes of your time to remove it and solder a proper fitting if it ever breaks and leaks all over your house for how ever long you're not there for.I've seen one corrode and break because an electrical line was on some of the copper plumbing and the owner was at work. He came back to a flooded living room and kitchen and a bedroom and had to call a mold company to fumigate the place just in case because water leaked through all of the wood studs in between the walls for 8 hours.
>>2871889Buy one of those lcd thermal cameras from Amazon for $100 and run hot water and see if any parts of your foundations are abnormally hot. Additionally, you can get one of those worm cameras for about $40 and drill a tiny hole in your drywall and run the camera through to see if you see any water. Once you're done, you can put them up on craigslist or fb market place. they usually sell pretty quick. Some plumber of tech will buy it off you for 75% the original price if you include everything and show them that you only used it once or for a very short time.
>>2871951That's a really good idea. I will buy a worm camera immediately.I am certain that no heat is involved because I already turned off the water to the hot water tank months ago.I'm tempted to quickly buy a reciprocating saw and simply rip through the floor to access the leak area. I could repair it, I'm sure, if I had access to it. No way am I crawling through a flooded crawl space. The running water sound is right where the washer/dryer is so if I ripped up the floor under those appliances, I could put it back without much cosmetic disturbance.
>>2871953You can also get a cheap $5 stethostcope too while you're at it so you can really really pinpoint where the sound is coming from before you drill a hole.
>>2870849Does anyone know what these valves under a standard hand washing sink in a bathroom are called and what size they usually are if they're on a 1/2 pipe? We're supposed to get 3/4 valves if the copper plumbing is 1/2 right? And are these usually soldered or are they twist? Are we supposed to twist left or is it twist right to loosen?
What's the best way to remove these little compression buggers if you don't have one of those removal tools?
>>28723951/4 turn angle stops. 1/2" to 3/8"
>>2872558you could try using a crescent wrench but you're probably best off cutting the copper back behind it. or just buy the tool, it's not expensive. buy it, use it and return it even
>>2870849Don't be cheap, just buy the plastic disconnect clip. Only a few bucks. Or, you can push an adjustable wrench against it.
>>2872395The one shown is a compression fitting. Loosen the nut with a wrench, then pull off the valve. Take it with you to the store to find one that fits. It is probably labeled "outlet 5/8 inch, 1/2 nominal."
>>2872558Cut the pipe and buy a new ferrule.
>>2870849>sharkbite>temporarywhy?
>>2872906So I can go buy the parts I need to solder a real valve instead of a sharkbite.
>>2872909They are good though. Rated for a couple decades.
>>2872910It can be, but I'd rather just solder and forget it and use the same sharkbite on other pipes that also need work instead of buying more of them. I've already used the same sharkbite valve on two other water supply lines.
>>2872906>>2872910Never trust sharkbite fittings.
In rural sandy hills on a well. Water test came back just over the "safe" recommended levels for nitrate and wanted to drop it down a notch. Opted to dock on a 2-stage filter, one for particulates, the other is carbon for nitrates and deflavoring.The upright galvanized pipe refused to budge, so I had to tie in on the low side. Added shutoffs on both ends to isolate the filters during service.Pressure is still good all throughout the house, and test showed reduced nitrate and even significantly lower TDS. Might still put in an RO under sink for cooking and drinking, but overall Im happy with my first minor install on a well system. Anything I missed? Hidden traps I should look out for?
>>2873067I've had one on for about 2 years and it was still fine when I took it off. It did have a little bit of green corrosion inside of it though, it probably would have still held for another 8 years or more. Regardless, it's a temporary solution and I'd rather have a permanent one.
>>2873385I would have gotten a bigger wrench and made that upright pipe move. Having those filters near the floor will be a pain when replacing cartridges. Normally, you would have a third valve between the two elbows you installed next to the valves. That allows you to shut off the filters and keep the water on to the house.
>>2873067All the guys ITT that have used them had no problems with them. All the guys ITT that hate them "know a guy" that had had problems with them. In other words, that's what the plumber's union told them to say.Never trust sharkbite fittings? How about never trust big plumba?
Stop me from making a mistake. I'm looking to buy a duplex. Inspection came back and is looking ROUGH pipe wise. Lots of corroded plastic pipes, some bad copper. Would need a lot of pex probably. I've also gotta replace two furnaces and deal with some routing of the vent from the washer/dryerHow big of an undertaking cost wise is it gonna be to hire someone to do that? One floor 2350sqft, 6BR, 2BA BUT it's all in the crawlspace. I don't know if all the copper needs ripped out, potentially just some section replacements, but what could a job like this balloon into? My agent was thinking 5k, I was thinking I could see this ballooning into 12k here in southern Colorado.I was thinking of low balling the shit out of them since I need to replace two furnaces down there too, and vacuum, but I'm struggling to determine if I wanna make a blind estimate or I gotta just stall out and get some more serious quotes for the work. Please and thank you.
>>2871949What does a live wire electrifying a pipe have to do with sharkbite? How is that sharkbites fault? Dumb gorilla nigger.
>>2873513>come on /diy/>ask how much its going to cost to hire some sleaze contractor to do these not very hard tasks for you
>>2873560I have no experience doing it. I was thinking it's easy to do myself and pocket the difference but I don't even know what's fair. I'm an electrical engineer not a plumber kek. Piss easy for me to estimate all the electrical myself
>>2873559Electrolysis corrodes copper and brass given enough time and will always leak. It always seeks oxygen for the reaction so it will corrode right where the plastic is. I've cut off many corroded MemeBite fittings from many weekend warriors's diy plumbing projects who are too sissy to learn how to solder like a real man and ended up flooding their roofs or bathrooms. Even a 12 year old can solder copper pipes just from watching a youtube video. No excuse to use a shark bite fitting other than to just stop water temporarily. It's a nice temporary solution.
