https://boards.4chan.org/diy/thread/2841929last threadSup homies, general rule of thumb with this thread:1. we try not to be assholes.2. Please use google first.3. If you find something useful, post it.4. ???5. ProfitLadder Stitch AKA Invisible Stitch.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WbE5hXt27uU---------------------------------------------------------------------------Thread theme:Personal advice thread, post what you think will help. mine - 1. Nylon is best thread.2. Clean your bobbin area, you may have some fuzz.3. Use a holding stitch; this is likely the FIRST one you see on your machine. It's just a dotted line.4. Make at least 2 extra bobbins as backups.5. ALWAYS have scraps to test your stitch out on.6. If you need a mini kit, buy some black nylon thread, small scissors, a spare needle, and a small carrying case. You don't really need more than that. Shit, I used to keep a spare needle in my hat sticking out but in the right place where I wouldn't get stabbed in the head.7. If you're trying to make your stitch look nice, ironing def helps.8. Get a good chair, as you will be sitting a LONG ASS TIME. LUMBAR SUPPORT MY FRIEND! (get up once in a while and stretch)9. You're never too good to practice on something. 10. Make something for your mom damn it, even if it's a pillow.Your question may be stupid but ask it anyway.
Note: Old Singers don't do fancy stitches, but they are legendary and can run forever with maintenance. https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-1-99.htmlQuestion:Why Nylon? I always use cotton or cotton wrapped around a synthetic core.
>>2885993stronger, better, faster,
starting with crochethow the FUCK do I control my tension? I've been watching videos and making granny squares while trying to practice my basic hand posture and internalizing how crochet works. all my energy seems to be focused on correctly handling the hook and yarn. I have no idea what is affecting my tension or how to control it
>>2886003I would recommend you to practice with a project that has mostly the same stitch in line, like a scarf, before getting into the complexities of grannies or shawls. Pay attention on how the amount of yarn pulled changes when you pull the thread or when you push the hook on the loop. Try thick hooks like 9mm / M. If you need to sew knitted fabric, check out Serger machines.
hemmed my pants
>>2886143another pair hemmedhavent snipped the threads
>>2885998>plastic in my clothes
>>2886143>>2886182good job dude>>2886214About 90% of your clothing is made of plastic. Nylon is your best solution for a lot of it so it doesn't fray or break. Yes, there is good cotton thread and I do recommend it as well, but nylon is my goto
>>2885930>5. ALWAYS have scraps to test your stitch out on.Absolutely agreed. Always buy at least an extra 1/4 meter of whatever you're about to work with for calibrating your machine stitch and tension.>7. If you're trying to make your stitch look nice, ironing def helps.Always press your seams! And turn them if you're making a 3d/stuffed object (that is to say, once you've turned the item inside-out, take something like a butter knife or knitting needle and gently stretch the seam all along the interior. It'll 'turn' the threads to the right side so that you get nice, smooth seams once it's stuffed.)>10. Make something for your mom damn it, even if it's a pillow.But OP, my mum is a huge raging bitch and I never want to see her again unless it's at her funeral!>>2885993>>2885998Agreed. Modern sewing machines are a weird market. It's largely predatory and based around "Look at all of these bells and whistles that you'll never use!" but it just leads to more components that need constant professional maintenance and WILL break down eventually - Plastic gears, complicated cam drives and PCUs.I started on a 90s Janome MyExcel LE and thought I was 'upgrading' by buying a brand new, $800 Singer Heritage in 2018 but just ended up with a very expensive plastic paperweight.Now I have two entirely metal 60+ year old machines that basically cannot be 'broken' beyond some freak flooding accident causing them to rust profusely overnight. I'm going to get some cheap modern electronic pedals to wire in (the carbon disc pedals have virtually zero speed control) and eventually I'd like to replace their motors entirely for modern brushless ones for even tighter control (since I work on such tiny pieces.)
>>2886289Dropped my pic. :') I've got to soak off the stickers that the thrift store put on the Singer table. reeeee
>>2886289>>10bummer anon.
How well does printing out patterns work? I've never used one but my mother used them a lot for sewing when I was a kid. Main thing I remember is the paper being very thin, which made it easy to work with the fabric. For a standard ink jet printer, is there a specific type of paper to use? Is there a printing service for larger patterns?
>>2886306Print 'em on standard paper (tape them together for parts larger than a4) and instead of pinning the paper to your fabric, go buy a Frixion (or any erasable ink pen) and trace it on to your fabric instead. The ink evaporates when heat is applied, so it'll disappear once you iron.
what's a good upgrade from the janome hd3000?I wanna sew errything from heavy wool to leatherbudget=under 3k canadianlooking at the janome hd9BLACKEDITION
>>2886343I have a Bernina B215, it gets the job done. Specially faux fur
>>2886343>$3000Do you specifically want a modern computerized machine?
>>2886357>>2886359nvmgot the hd9
What would be the best way to go about fixing the neckline on this piece to make it look like a regular tee?
>>2886366forgot pic
anyone have thread size/spacing visual charts?
>>2886428
any nice long coat patterns?
just finished reupholstering my desk chair
Is the Singer Model 348 a good starter machine? Just looking to learn to make clothes and alter what I have to fit better.
>>2886289I am just getting started and got myself a Singer Heavy Duty to learn on. Most of what I'm going to be working on is thicker woven fabric with high denier thread.The problem that I've been having is that the pedal on this machine sucks. It is difficult to get it to go slow, and the speed will go way up with a slight change in the pedal. Is there a way to modify the pedal to be more responsive?I'm actually better with electronics than sewing, so I am already thinking about building a special controller that can set the speed to predetermined rates, but I don't have a lot of time for that project, so I am wondering if there is a simple fix, like a better pedal or something, that I can get now and save the electronic controller for later.
>>2886552I'm honestly not sure, anon.. Being a computerized machine means the issue could even be at the motor/machine itself rather than the pedal.The speed control/PCB in the pedal itself may be damaged, but I've no idea how you'd check that and it'd probably need a complete replacement. If you can find a local sewing shop they might let you plug another in to test.Is the pedal wired with the power cable or a separate piece? If it's wired together, it may not be compatible with your local voltage (but if that were the case, it would've probably bricked the entire machine by now.)
>>2886580Just had a quick search and it looks like a very common complaint with the Singer HD - Apparently you can crack open the pedal and adjust the speed potentiometer. It's a deliberate function of those pedals, so should just be a sliding bar.
what's your sewing station setup like?
>>2886293The 201k cable arrived and I honestly didn't expect the pedal to run so SMOOOOOOTH, considering it's also a carbon disc. I can walk it stitch-by-stitch. Beautiful.The original bulb still works, too, but it gets so hot so quickly that I can smell the dust in the case burning off. I'll probably just gently remove the light fixture entirely, since I already use a desk lamp.
>>2886631Update: My modern class 66 bobbins don't fit, and I only have one original.>they're $10 each on ebay
Gonna cut and sew the fur for a head, first time sewing since i was a preteen, wish me luck.
>>2885930Are any of the aliexpress machines any good?
Christmas PJs = hemmed
>>2885930I want to make myself a Raggedy Ann style doll, where should I start? I am a noob.
>>2886003you control it with your index and pinky. make sure your yarn is angled horizontally between your index and hook. if you're too vertical it wont pull smoothly. it's really hard at first but just takes practice. i found it easier to just do strings of single loops to start with. you need to build muscle memory.
>>2886692They're almost certainly all going to be teeny tiny toy 'replicas' of real machines. Don't try to buy machinery (or anything of value) from places like AliExpress, Wish, Temu.AliBaba (possibly Taobao) is the place to go if you want real second-hand industrial machines. I was considering ordering a Juki SS because even with shipping it'd be ~$500AUD instead of $1500AUD to pick one up locally.>>2886743I like to point people towards the ~$10 PDF patterns available on Etsy! If you're a complete beginner to sewing and would like the comprehensive written tutorial aspect, it's definitely your best bet.If you don't mind dicking around a bit and learning as you go, patterning dolls is SO easy. Pic is my pattern for 14" fabric dolls.>Stuff the head firmly, really cram it in there with a screwdriver or something.>Stuff the body with large volumes of loose filling so that it doesn't clump up.>Stuff the legs firmly to the top 1/2".>Baste the legs directly into the crotch (so the exposed, cut edge of the crotch fabric is still visible.)>Push the legs up into the crotch, pulling the crotch fabric down until the body is nice and firm. Pin into place and then hand-stitch the crotch to the legs for a neat, hidden seam.>Hand-stitch arms on, half-circle at the top of the shoulder and a straight down 1" down (so that when you lift the arm, it's a neat, straight seam in the armpit.)I use Kona cotton for all of my dolls bodies - It's not the BEST plain weave cotton, but it has the best colour range for skintones.
>>2886810(And I paint my faces on, but embroidery is just as easy once the head is stuffed. I prefer to work on the stuffed head rather than flat so that there isn't any warping or displacement.)>polite sage for double post
I am a man but I have a slight urge to make dresses now(been watching miruyousai)
>>2886583Thank you for the tip. I found a YT video describing how to change the speed, but unfortunately my pedal is one that does not have that potentiometer in it. Fortunately, I do know enough about electronics to add a potentiometer to this circuit, and I see the resistor that they used in this case was a 1Kohm, so I'll replace it with a 2K potentiometer and adjust it that way. I really appreciate you getting me started though!>>2886841I am also a man, and I'm focusing almost exclusively on dresses and small bags (ie clutches). I've helped design a couple of dresses in the past, but I am not a designer or a sewer; I was just the guy who developed the specialty fabric. Since then, I have made a couple of small items, but I got so tired of working with designers and 'professional' sewers that now I am just learning it all myself.Here's what I can tell you. I'm not in to wearing the dresses, but I learned that when a model wears something that I've made, I find it almost irresistibly sexy. The dress can be so-so, and the model can be ordinary, but once she puts on something I made, it's super super sexy to me. 10/10 would recommend.
>>2886857I replaced the resistor with a 5K potentiometer, and now it works great. 100% better!
>>2886857the silver thing with a plastic piece in the middle with a hook around it is a potentiometer.
>>2887319That's.....true...It's not the one that I added though.
>>2887302GJ, solid work.
anyone here make bags?
>>2887600yo, what do you need help with?
>>2886306pdfplotting.com is great for printing A0 patterns
>>2887676Not the same guy as >>2887600 , but I wouldn't mind talking about clutches for a minute.I've got a basic design, which is small and square, with a somewhat-hidden zipper. I also have a special fabric that is the outer-most layerone one side. What I want to do is enclose a small package in the layers of fabric, or on the interior of the purse. It's kind of a bulky, 3D printed package though, so I was considering adding a middle 'flap' in the interior of the clutch that could include the 3D printed box. So I'm thinking of a design where it's still a clutch, but it has special fabric on one side, it has a flap in the middle of the compartment, and also I want to add a battery charging antenna for wireless battery charging in the side of the purse that doesn't have the special fabric.So, what would you say anon? Got any tips or words of wisdom? Is there a good way to enclose a small box of circuitry in a clutch? Have you ever included a small flat antenna-like thing between an outer and inner layer?I'm a noob, but I'm a quick study too, so if you have some words of wisdom, I would like to hear your advice!
just bought this, cant wait until it arrivesAfter i fixed all my damaged stuff, whats my next project?
>>2887944and to think you could have got 2 to 4 good sewing machines from goodwill for whatever you paid for that.
>>2887944not a bad choice anon >>2888038Do you know how many you'd have to go to to find one?
got my hd9the pedal control compared to the hd3000 is night and day
>>2887944Nice, you'll get to make all kinds of stuff.
>>2886182the fit btw
>>2886231>About 90% of your clothing is made of plasticno it isn't, wtf90% may be sewn with plastic but who the fuck wears mostly synthetics, on this autistic shithole of all places?
>>2887302thank you for this tip AnonI got an old singer 15k with a universal motor which sucks assI was about to start building something like this to make it usable https://github.com/JosephEoff/Bigfootbut I'll try your approach first
>>2889120For an old metal machine like a 15k, you could just buy an entirely new motor, cable, controller set for like $25USD.>then i remembered that we're in /diy/Good luck, anon. Ya gotta give us progress updates.
>>2889115A LOT of people wear polyester
>>2889120No problem anon. Here's the link for the potentiometer that I used (although you can use a 10K potentiometer instead if you like). If you run in to problems, describe your problems here with a picture or two and I'm happy to give you electrical advice!https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nidec-components-corporation/CT-6EP502/738314?s=N4IgTCBcDaIMYBcBsBTADgVgAxgLQDsATEAXQF8g
>>2889397Also, here is the link to a YT video describing how to adjust the speed by changing the potentiometer. If your pedal already contains the adjustment pot then this video is all you need. If your pedal was like mine and did not have the pot already installed, then you will need to spend $1 on the pot and install it yourself like I did. Hope this helps!https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kgxf2OXfxro
>>2889178that's what I'm using but the controller sucks>>2889397damn, I'm retarded, it already had a potentiometer insideturned it to the max and now it starts slowly, but sadly it accelerates and doesn't maintain the slow speedalso, the pedal itself is hard to press since it's a plastic piece rubbing with the big potentiometer inside to push it and lubricating it didn't helpbut oh well, it was worth the try
>>2889421Check the YT video. The way that the Triac controls the motor speed isn't exactly obvious at first, but what it means is that turning the pot all the way to one side is probably not the best setting. Instead, try testing it at many different points along its range, and see which one works best. The best setting will likely be somewhere in the middle of the range.I hear you about the pedal being mechanically sticky. Unfortunately there is not a lot to be done there except maybe adding some more lube or coating the plastic triangle on the top part with something like teflon.
>>2889425yes, that's what I did, and all the way up to the right was the best positionhow would a stepper motor work for this? the only thing I want is fine control at slow speed, don't care about going fast or anything elsehow much torque would I need?
>>2889421Yikes. Do you have a pic of the top of the controller, anon? (I'm planning on ordering a couple of the super generic $10 Chinese ones that have the 'electronic' sticker on top.)I'm sincerely shocked and IMPRESSED at the control that my 201k gets.. I really didn't think that any carbon disc controller could be that sensitive. Should try to get a pic at some point.Not sure what you mean about necessary torque - Unless you're looking for slow, consistent speeds through several layers of leather.
>>2889449>how would a stepper motor work for this?Ideally, there would be some non-standard control issues you'd need to work around. Specifically, I think any stepper big enough to guarantee it wouldn't skip steps when bogged down would also be big enough to cause damage if the machine ever got jammed. You would either want some closed-loop feedback (i.e. a servo or "hybrid" stepper), or just have to live with the potential skipped steps.It may not actually even be a problem in the real world, with an overloaded motor just vibrating annoyingly and making bad noises. Aside from that potential issue, a stepper would probably work really well for low-speed work. A servo might just be better, though, since it could be configured for the speed/torque characteristics you want out of the box.At the same time, I can't help but feel like it would be a lot easier to just use a set of step pulleys with a regular sewing machine motor/controller. Pop the belt over to a low ratio for low speed stuff, move it back up for normal work.
>>2889451>Do you have a pic of the top of the controller, anon?pic rel>Unless you're looking for slow, consistent speeds through several layers of leathernot exactly leather but I want to sew sheepskins>>2889456thanks Anon, I'll study your suggestionsI just want something "simple" and can't believe that there isn't any commercial solution for cheap
>>2889449I see. Well, it looks like you might be better off going with your original idea of creating the Bigfoot project.I tend to agree with >>2889456 that a stepper motor could work, but may be over-sized. They do make nice motor controllers that work with both steppers and servos, and that could get you the torque you are looking for, but those controllers typically go for a couple hundred bucks each.I'm still thinking about designing an Arduino solution to this, where the foot pedal would be just a switch that connects to an Arduino, and the Arduino can change the speed between a few exact values depending on how you set the dial, but my motivation went down for that when I fixed my own pedal using the adjustment potentiometer.For you, I think the easiest solution is to just deal with what you have, next easiest is to set up a series of pulleys like >>2889456 suggested, next hardest is build your own Bigfoot, and most expensive solution is upgrade the motor and use a proper motor controller to drive it. If I do come up with an easy Arduino solution, I'll be sure to share it here.
>>2889461Here's a typical 1HP, 120V variable frequency motor controller that allows you to adjust several variables and even has a dynamic breaking function. If you only ever want it to run at a slow steady speed, you can use the buttons on the front panel to set the speed, then use the start/stop button to start/stop sewing. It's an expensive solution, but it would work way better than the little Triac controller in your current pedal.https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/drives_-a-_soft_starters/ac_variable_frequency_drives_(vfd)/general_purpose_vfds/gs21-11p0?_gl=1*ow0mmx*_up*MQ..*_gs*MQ..&gclid=Cj0KCQiA-aK8BhCDARIsAL_-H9lOsSvTz8kp6Kn5H8lUumdACdlsmxFUpPe3CYu58mN_mbHeXt4UDlEaAieqEALw_wcB
