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File: deck print-01.jpg (392 KB, 2550x3300)
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What does /diy/ think of my 12’ by 12’ deck design?

Any suggestions?

The joists (in yellow) are 16” apart starting from the top down.
19 replies and 6 images omitted. Click here to view.
that's what I thought you were referring to. In my experience wood shrinks depending on the moisture content during assembly, so I'd wonder how much tension there is in 5 or 10 years, or even more. Decks are expected to last a long time when made of treated lumber, and eventually I'd say much of the load is carried in pure shear on the fasteners. Are you a mechanical engineer? Your reasoning is more appropriate for things made of metal.
It means measure from the center of the joist/pole to the center of the next joist/pole.

Knows stuff and is right in practice

Knows stuff in theory, but it’s irrelevant here. Wood cups, bends, swells, expands, twists etc especially outdoor. You have exactly zero control over the friction force between boards joined this way. If you stand on a joist, it should rest on its support, not be attached to it.
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this is how I would frame it.
the skirt is never supposed to be structural, but in this case it helps that weird corner.

all posts should be notched like >>2788947
bolts should be used in all corners to tie the skirt together, and on the legs to tie them to the main beams
everything is 2x12, dont use any less or you will meed a ton more ground posts
oh I should say you can go without posts and just put it directly on the concrete at those specific points. just follow of the rule no more than 2ft from center of post to edge of beam, no more than 4ft center of post to center of post. going higher than 2ft with the posts also needs cross bracing.
you wont really avoid being 2.5ft off the ground with this design but that shouldnt be a problem unless you live in a trailer house or something
Where is the shed?

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>still trying to make something out of my land

Feels comfy bros
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this is the best idea here
just make it a beehive shed , they exist
they are perfect for the climate
just put more bee boxes in the shed fill it up
i agree you can easily make another cuck shed
also bee sheds are not permitted
guy comes just open it

honestly its a great money making venture
You can make a good bit of money off honey and mead. but you have to ask yourself if it's worth living with bees all the time. I've worked in fruit fields that were totally infested with them before. They generally dont bother you if you dont bother them, but you will get stung sooner or later. Might not be that bad if you have enough land that you can give them a wide birth tho
I have 0,42 acres and I'm trying to get the best of it in Spain. AMA
>just use dry leaves
Beware of poison oak and ivy.
>or grass
a fistful of feces
Pine needles work best. Leaves your asshole smelling fresh and clean

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How do I get into the trades in Toronto
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That's part of the evening
How many times do bots have to post this shit? This is the 5th one that I’ve seen.
Go look at a fucking archive.
bet it's the same guy that's been spamming about acid
lots of spam this month
>in canada
it was over before it fucking started
Toronto is not Canada. we do not claim them.

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Should I buy a bullshit dilapitated hellhouse to /diy/ into something livible? It is a good way to break into the near impossible housing market? Or is it just a fantasy?

Show me your work /diy/. I've got to know if I'll be able to making it with less than 20k initial investment.
32 replies and 6 images omitted. Click here to view.
I bought one of these about 5 years ago. Thought I could DIY it on the weekends. Took my a month to empty the hoard out, some rooms it was to the ceiling. I left the couch which was the only piece of furniture used by the former owner. Through a tarp over it and used it to sit and rest. In one room the trash columns had become structural over time and once removed the bathroom above began falling through breaking a water supply pipe. After turning off the main I grabbed all my tools and tore the tarp off the couch. I took a large smooth shit on that couch and walked away. The town tried contacting me a few months latter when high school kids found the house and started hanging out in it. One night I set it on fire. That was about 2 years ago. I moved in with my brother a state over and changed my number. Have no idea what happens now or what legal responsibilities I have. Thinking about saying I was the victim of a scam. Would do it again, learning lesson and the ending was kino
Where's that house standing for your expenses being all over the place this much?
that roof is making my throat itch!
tar paint?
>Should I buy a bullshit dilapitated hellhouse to /diy/ into something livible?
The answer for the house in your pic is "absolutely not" but something like >>2788359 might be manageable.

>It is a good way to break into the near impossible housing market? Or is it just a fantasy?
Depends; are you a master builder with no commitments, experience in historical construction techniques, in possession of at least $150k to dump into this project and have a place to live for the literal years it will take to rehabilitate it even working full-time?

The difference between un-fucking an ugly but structurally sound 1700sqft post-war crackerbox and a beautiful but a structurally unsound 3500sqft multi-story brick house from the gilded age is night and day and hundreds of thousands of dollars. Anyone can rip up floors and scrape popcorn ceilings and most people can even manage to rennovate a bathroom or kitchen or install windows if they hire a plumber to put the pipes where they want them but have you ever repaired a brick foundation or built a mansard roof or installed a lath and plaster wall or dealt with knob and tube wiring? Moreover, if you want to keep the historical character of the house (which is the ONLY reason to even think about something like this) then that's a whole other layer of skill and expense and considerably more so if you're paying others for the fabrication and only handling the installation. Replacing and trimming out the front door with something appropriate to the house will probably cost $4000+ all by itself, to say nothing of period-appropriate hardware for lights/faucets/cabinets/etc., custom stairs, and things of that ilk. You'll enter the rotting library, see a redwood Versailles parquet floor and built-in English Oak bookshelves and then cry when you realize that restoring that one room alone would put you over budget
>the trash columns had become structural over time and once removed the bathroom above began falling through breaking a water supply pipe
Thats amazing and a nightmare
Where was it and how much did you spend if you dont mind?
Was always a dream of mine to buy one of those old detroit crackhouses and rebuild it but ive since come to my senses and bought a decent, well looked after little 1970s home and its still kind of a neverending expense and repair job to keep liveable

Why did no one tell me about them? They are the best for getting marks off a wall
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Spit n Elbow Grease entered the chat
Maybe besides the point, but isopropylic alcohol AKA propan-2-ol works better than erasers for removing pencil from walls
I only use name brand. Mr. Clean put decades of research plus a touch of magic into those Magic Erasers. I support real Murricans like Mr. Clean and I don’t want to get near no ching chong diaper rash melaria sponges.
>I only use name brand. Mr. Clean

mr clean is a homo gay if there ever was one
Left ear buddy, that’s more man than you could ever handle!

My uncle’s friend once went camping with Mr. Clean and Mr. Brawny and they caught 3 state record trout in one afternoon and had designed a new more absorbent mop before they even pitched the tent.

My shower in a 5 year old UK house has worked for years without issue, for the last 6 months it has been losing significant (50%-75%) water pressure after the first couple of minutes of running.

I've removed the shower unit from the wall so I'm just blasting water straight out of the pipes in the wall and have the same issue, good pressure for a short duration then very weak, so the shower unit is not to blame.

The tap on the sink maintains 100% pressure indefinitely. I have another bathroom and the shower there maintains 100% pressure indefinitely, as do the sink and bath taps, so it isn't a boiler issue.

There are no obvious signs of a leak.

Can anyone provide advice on how to find the problem?
4 replies omitted. Click here to view.
I'll give that a go, cheers. When I get paid I'll grab one with a clamp and one with a brush and try them both

No, I removed the whole shower, it's one of these bar types. It just has two pipes feeding in, one hot one cold from the boiler. So I took the shower off completely and just had two pipes sticking out of the wall, it still had the pressure issue
I should have done the googling part before responding. I have a mixer shower, I took this off entirely
ok you mention a boiler and picture a mixer so assuming this is a hot water fed shower not electric
>I've removed the shower unit from the wall so I'm just blasting water straight out of the pipes in the wall and have the same issue
what part did you remove? you say pipes so assuming you have removed the mixer and have two pipes, a hot and a cold, which one is losing pressure?
dont mention anything at all about the boiler set up, 5 year old house or 5 years since you bought it?
i dont think they put water tanks in new builds but for example an old house with one tank fed shower might lose pressure when the tank drains and its only hot fed.
i can only assume your bath taps (which run properly) are just below the mixer,probably teed off, it would be very unusual to have some obstruction that affects one but not the other
you haven't provided any detail on the shower, boiler, heating system, pipe size, what floor your on (each shower) all could have some input into the issue.
the easiest solution is you have a poorly written post and a faulty mixer, pretty common that tap valve parts close as they heat up.
get a builders bucket, fill it from the bath tap for one minute, empty it, fill it from the shower for one minute, empty it, wait until the shower slows, fill it for one minute.
you should have 3 volumes of water in litres report back with a picture of the area where your boiler is
>constant-temperature mixer
I just got back from England and all the showers I saw looked like OP pic and do have integral thermostatic mixing valves. Temp control on the right and volume control on the left. It's amazing. Somehow this is considered an unnecessary luxury in the US despite likely costing just a few pennies more to make.

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I'm having a hard time finding information on cement roof sheathing.
Is this just not done in the US?
I'm trying to sheath my roof with cement boards, and then put a metal roof over that using adhesive. Cant find shit for information.
14 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
Well you're gonna insulate your roof, right? RIGHT???
why not pour the roof out of concrete?
1/2" osb and metal roof on top of that. no adhesive use metal roofing screws.
>its an a-frame house
These memes still get build somewhere? I assume you're some canuk or norsefag, in which case i don't get why you're skipping actual insulation like in >>2787718.
i have unlimited firewood and enjoy making fire in a wood stove.
if I need insulation, I will just cram it between the rafters and put in interior walls, but I dont need it,
I more or less want added protection from wildfires. I was going to redo the walls too with the cement for walls people do
my thought is a concrete roof is viable since the roof is so slanted, that the weight isnt a concern. the metal is because I am afraid it may eventually crack and leaked.

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Hi /diy
With a fella at my astronomy club, we're interested in the making of a binoscope.
(pic related: it's 2 telescope side by side)
There seem to be awesome realizations on the internet, but close to no diagram or advice.
This is a 3 stage project:
1- we'd like to try it out with 2 newtonian telescope (skywatcher 200/1000) since we have the same model.
2- make a small frame that would use these mirrors (2x200) since we're not experienced in the telescope making business
3- scale it up to 2x300 or 350mm.

My biggest concern is finding good secondary mirrors, since they'll need to be bigger because lower on the light path.

Any diyer experienced in the field?
good ressources we've found so far


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I had to push wads of grease 75' deep twice yesterday to clear apartment sink drains. Pulling the snake back out was extremely slow and took me pulling as hard as I could for an hour and a half straight both times. I'm a pretty big strong guy, have great grip strength in particular, but I woke up and can't even make a fist with one hand without my joints almost locking in place with pretty startling pain. My shoulders are also fried. If I had to do the same thing today I'd have to flat out refuse. What am I doing wrong? That was the most strenuous thing I ever had to do for work and I've done some rough shit in the past.
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Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>running in reverse
That thing is not a screw, you run it in reverse if and when it binds. In most cases, it goes forward whether you are pushing or pulling.
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I talked to a plumber and he had these. Gloves that came with the tool just got slick with grease. That was my issue kek.

Anyone here do a glass building? I heard it can be relatively cheap if you use glass storefront hardware/contractors.
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most important thing is to not cast stones
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No. It won't be cheap.
t.glass storefront hardware/contractor
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Glass sneeze/privacy guard for wheelchair bound customers.
The thing is that the glass industry is notorious for rampantly opportunistic and nonsensical pricing that has almost no pricing standards beyond "how much have you got?"

Some of this is straight up predation, in other instances suppliers and fabricators may give extremely competitive prices for one specialty item like insulated panels or mirror and then price stuff they don't want to deal with in a manner designed to almost guarantee that people will look elsewhere, and if they don't they can overpay *wildly* for the most basic stuff.

It's so prevalent that it's an inside joke in the industry and for any particular piece of glass it is not at all far fetched to say that whatever the lowest possible price it can possibly be sold for, you can easily find someone who will quote 10-100X that price and tell you that's just what it costs.

All of which is to say that while I don't dispute the numbers you cite, you can only ever get a ballpark cost-per-foot figure by working backwards from an actual invoice and that invoice may have little relation to any average cost.

Again, some of that is opportunism but it also has a LOT to do with handling costs incurred to get glass to processors like tempering and panelizing facilities from any particular manufacturer location and then on to any particular jobsite.
>but it also has a LOT to do with handling costs
Exactly. Breakage has to be figured in. The manufacturer prices it with contingencies due to the nature of glass, tempered can and does regularly shatter in the oven. Any glass contracts has it figured where any job can loose a piece and they're still covered.

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How to I strip the paint off an old, heavy duty steel PC case? and any tips for repainting it

I have a belt sander, a detail sander and an angle grinder but I legit don't know where to start
41 replies and 13 images omitted. Click here to view.
>I have the PC painted
You dragged this out for over a month, finally finish, and the photo you decide to use to accompany this post is some actor in A FUCKING TOGA?
Jesus Christ.
Post a fucking pic of the FUCKING FINISHED CASE, YOU FUCKING ... serenity now ... serenity now ... serenity now
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Okay I gotta repaint one panel tomorrow because I fucked up, but I'll post a set of pics in the next day or so. I've got a 15 year old i7-950 running in it at the moment with 12 gigs of RAM, which seemed suitable for a 22 year old chassis
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Okay this is an old pic of when it was in use back in the day, it was made in 2002 and was in use up until about 2018
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Here it is now painted all black and with a first gen i7-950, with 12 gigs of RAM and a Asus GTX 1060 Turbo 6gig in it

I recorded the whole process from start to finish so I'm gonna make a youtube video about it in the next few weeks, once I get through the editing of it all
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Another random pic from the other side, I suck at painting and the coat isn't perfectly even but imma just live with it now at this point

I bought pic related to jerk off to 3d porn on the go.

Now I thought that i can 3d print a slim adapter to turn those shitty glasses into IR-NVG. I am using a Raspberry Pi zero right now and planning to upgrade to a Raspberry pi 5.
But now I have a tiny hiccup. Video doesnt work.

Any of you have experience with raspbian and exotic display options? If you are interested I can keep posting my progress.
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Sounds interesting tell/show us more.
I need to upgrade from converting video to analglyph and using pic rel
Not interested buh bye now
UBC video glasses, that can play ultra wide side by side Video.
i am interested in glasses that can filter light frequencies.
like if we modeled a screen to filter light to pass only some light frequencies.
Because all common glasses and i am interested in bluecyanin ones can only show one frequency at time based on the color repeling and refraction of light.
but i saw some recently material that can turn transparent or opaque with eletricity.
if we could develop something like that is nice.
Because another day, i saw i vid, i don´t know if is fake or not, but the dude had a piece of glass that could see UFO on broad daylight, because they hide in the frequencies of light that normal human eye can´t see, so using this kind of glasses you can perceive them.
based schizo

Where do I start?
6 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
what the hell is that floor even trying to do
In what regard? It's concrete but it's not level, it runs with the hill
Site dumpster, remove all the garbage, junk, crappy cheap fixtures from that disgusting shower. Tear out all the old drywall or lathe and plaster that is significantly damaged by water or just looks like paint wont fix. Fill dat up and have it taken away. Clean the entire site.

2. Drop ceiling, level that weird concrete floor with self leveling concrete. install subfloor up to the same height as concrete in the back and door. Knock out that wall and have it all open, install support beam if you need to. Seems like someone already did that and just build some shit wall instead of putting in the proper support.

3. Install half a wall and put a countertop for open counter seating, turn the water hookup in that weird shower in to the beginning of a kitchen. Countertops/beautiful consistent cabinetry. No home depot crap. Mid-range stainless steel appliances. Replace all windows with black frames. EXPAND windows in your new kitchen to let in as much natural daylight as possible in to your shitshack.

4. Install can lighting for consistent lighting throughout both rooms. Maybe a light fixture to sit above a dining table? Run line and install outlets every 4 feet. Drywall EVERYTHING.

5. Install maple hardwood floor throughout entire building, shimming (or whatever floor leveling method is for hardwood) with no thresholds and perfectly level.

6. Protect floors, paint drywall revere pewter grey, stain floors with a nice natural stain.
My advise is level that fucking floor.
Mine is 1/2" out over 5 feet and it is driving me crazy.
Shoot for perfection, because you won’t get there.
Now all I have is regret. I shure as shit don’t want to do it now.
What are you hoping to achieve? Budget? Any trade skills/building trade contacts?
If that was home, I'd remove all non-structural timber, jackhammer up that "floor", and start again on a fresh slab.
Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to check out any structural work while you're at it kek
Is that corro cladding?

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Australian wiring question, or, "How Bruce burned his house down".

I have a regular feed and a "controlled load" feed in my house.
Currently my water heater runs off the controlled load, however my solar/battery system does not feed into it, so I want to change it over to the regular feed.
It's got a MOD6 circuit breaker switch in the meterbox, with a single thick red wire running into the bottom, and a thin red wire coming out the top.
Am I right to assume the thick wire running into the bottom is the controlled load feed? And to switch it over, you'd disconnect that wire, cap the wire, and then run a regular feed wire into it?
Is it that ""simple""?
11 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
That might cost you a bit, I'm in New Zealand.
NZ and Aussie share the same wiring rules.
DIY-ers over here are allowed to do certain small electrical jobs, it's the Electrical workers unions in Aussie that are there reason why there is such a strangle-hold on what a home-owner can do.
I think you're getting confused with the regulations and acts that enforce who can and can't perform electrical work. A union fights for the rights and conditions of workers and ensures a fair days pay for a fair days work. Scabs can get fucked.

t. Proud ETU member
>a fair days pay
t. $120 an hour
Not sure who's being paid $120 an hour but sign me up. A homeowner might get charged that per hour but they're paying for a tradesmans skill and warranty on the work.
>DIY electrical legal in NZ
>Lower rate of house fires compared to Aus
Face it, kiwis are just smarter then you Bruce.

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Welcome to /pjg/, the general discussion thread for piss jugs. What is the status of your piss jug now?
>Piss jugs accumulating?
Find uses for old urine in this thread. Stories welcome.

Piss Jug FAQ

Why use a piss jug?
>It does WONDERS for my sleep, as opposed to getting up and walking out to the bathroom.

What is the chemical formula?
>Human urine consists primarily of water (91% to 96%), with organic solutes including urea, creatinine, uric acid, and trace amounts of enzymes, carbohydrates, hormones, fatty acids, pigments, and mucins, and inorganic ions such as sodium (Na+), potassium (K+), chloride (Cl-), magnesium (Mg2+), calcium (Ca2+), ammonium (NH4+), sulfates (SO42-), and phosphates (e.g., PO43-).

Why does piss have a suffocating odor?
>When the body breaks down proteins for energy, it releases fixed nitrogen that has to be dealt with. The body turns it into urea and excretes it. Urea and water form an equilibrium reaction with CO2 and ammonia. "CO(NH2)2 + H2O <--> 2NH3 + CO2" Therefore, when urea is dissolved in water it slowly converts to ammonia, giving piss its suffocating odor.

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
96 replies and 14 images omitted. Click here to view.
>no, in physiological conditions there shouldnt be any or very little.
this is true but it's not sterile AND presumably the bottle itself may not be sterile i.e yeast. we brew many things (sourdough, saison beer) from the yeast just floating in the air that happens to land in your brew. I believe wine is also made this way (i.e. yeast for wine comes from grapeskins)

What concerns me about this story is not the sterility, though, it's what was the yeasts feeding on. When you make wine or beer or whatever... it's sugar that they feed on, of one form or another. Presumably there is sugar in the urine, which "sugar in the urine" in the Latin language is the word "Diabeetus". Food for thought.
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>"sugar in the urine" in the Latin language is the word "Diabeetus"
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Any sink pissers in the thread?
I poured expired hydrogen peroxide in a piss jug. Reduced the piss stink.
>piss in bottles because I live in the 3rd floor of a share house and am too autistic to go to the bathroom on the 2nd floor because I think it will bother everyone
>usually make midnight runs to the bathroom to dump my piss bottles out weekly
>one week I somehow find a girl at a school that wants to fuck me she comes back to my place
>my hand touches my rooms door handle when I remember that it’s Friday afternoon and I have a weeks worth of piss bottles nesting all over my room
>ask the girl to wait outside my room for a second while I tidy it up she looks awkward but says “…okayyy”
>get in my room and start panicking because I have like 20+ piss bottles and know there’s no way to dispose of them without her knowing
>have an idea just start opening the piss bottles and dumping them out my window
>halfway through apparently some lady walked her dog under my window and I poured my piss all over her
>she screams and then gets super fucking angry and starts knocking on the door really loud
>ignore her and keep dumping more piss bottles outside of a different window in the room
>finally done leave room to get the girl
>she had left through the back door while waiting
I still wonder if she somehow found out I was dumping piss out the window or if she had been planning to rob me and just gave up or something

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