Pic ripped from Google cause it's the closest I can find to what I'm trying to do. the wife wants a floating corner desk for the gaming PC and some shelves above it for storage/display. similar to Pic but shelves on both walls and much bigger desk, I'm going for 84" long side, 42" shorter side, 24" deep. Was thinking about building shelf brackets out of leftover 2x4 and using those to mount the desk to the wall on the studs. don't want to buy brackets cause I'm broke and have a lot of 2x4 cuttoffs. for top was thinking either a frame with thin hardboard on top not too dissimilar from a hollow core door, or should I go with OSB with a thin plywood on top? how thick would you make the desk top? is there another way I'm not thinking about?
>>2895383>>2895462You want to put all this weight plus someone seated on it on a shitty floating plywood desk you think you're going to do yourself? good luck and post pictures after
>>2895619the person sitting on it could easily be 500+ pounds if someone reckless and evil enough happens to be in the house. there's always an element of human management from OP's end.
>>2895462You definitely need some diagonal bracing, assuming you don't want legs at each corner. The weight of twin monitors, a tower and the shit that your're going to add someday and haven't thought of now, almost guarantee everything's gonna end up on the floor.
24" deep floating shelf with what you've described here >>2895462 on top of it is whack. I don't think there's a good way to do this, OP.But your best bet is steel. Maybe a heavy bracket like pic rel. You probably have to fabricate them yourself. Good luck drilling those long holes to slot into the desk surface. Mount the short side first. Connect them however you like after both are installed.I'd put a bracket on every stud. Mortise them into the framing so you can patch the drywall over top of them.This will not be an easy project.
i made a shelf recently. see my amazing drawing. its carrying a large oak board, printer, plants,etc and seems as stable as can be. though i havent tried sitting on it.attached to studs. although in front of that is gypsum board i suppose u americans call it. so if i were to sit on it perhaps the gypsum would kill if not anything else.
Just moved into a 10-year old house in the UK. Garage floor is extremely dusty pitted concrete.I'd like to use it for storage in the short term, and keep it capable of taking a car. Longer term, I don't want to do anything that would preclude converting it into a home office or gym.Current plan is to do this: https://ardex.co.uk/how-to-resurface-a-garage-floor/I've already scraped and vaccumed every inch of it, but running a stiff brush still generates dust, and I expect a power washer will dig into the concrete. Also, the DPM in the walls is around floor level. If I pour self-levelling concrete it will flow under and above the DPM, and there is a little damp around the edges in places.I'm not sure if I should do something to try to prevent damp coming in via the walls before I pour the self-leveling concrete. Or how to better prepare the dusty concrete. Or perhaps I'm just overthinking it and should follow the linked example? Any advice welcome.
>>2895891I ground my garage dead level because I hated how hard it was to sweep, used a planetary machine and some very aggressive 30g metal diamonds. Once ground up to a higher grit, densified and sealed its great. The big issue I have is moisture migrating up from below the slab, condensation, etc. Water coming in through the walls is another issue. Once you seal it its going to trap the moisture and cause efflorescence and other issues. So really your job starts outside, dig down the surrounding, membrane it really well and make sure water flows down. Then you can start talking about finishes. Your options are epoxy coatings, ground natural finish like I did or, and this is my suggestion, tiling the entire thing along with the bottom 6 inches of the wall, it's much easier and will last a lot longer. >pressure washingRemoving lose material isn't a bad thing, your ideal would be to use a surface cleaner attachment to your pressure washer then lightly rinsing all the loose stuff out>floor machine with vacuum attachmentLike what I did, rent a grinder and go to town, work dry and suck it all into a proper vacuum. Super expensive though as your consumables like diamonds are not something you rent. Would almost be worth hiring someone at that point. >tiles Cheapest option with the lowest chance of failure. Get a full bodied porcelain tile, nothing to big, as cracks should find the grout instead of the tile the smaller the tile is. use good latex fortified cement and grout, prime the concrete before starting etc.etc.>paintJust paint the bugger with a thick coat and re-roll it every year :shrug:
>>2895891Most self leveling concrete isnt usable as a walking/top floor so make sure you get the special stuff. And yes concrete will get dusty again over time with heavy traffic unless you coat it. They have easy self pouring epoxy for such floors that last really long
Are there paint removers that actually work good? I want to re-paint my mtb but dont want to remove any metal by sanding it. Also what type of paint protects steel frame from rust and impacts the best and dont go bad in the sun?
>>2893722>chemicalreal men just use their strength to grind it off, you will have to sand the entire wall for new paint to stick to it anyway, fucking moron
>>2893625Even if you chemical strip your still need to sand for adhesion.Wire brush risk warpage.If you get the paint stripper by the gallon at a automotive paint store it will be the real deal. The stuff at the hardware store is for yuppie scum and suburban housewives
>>2893722Id like to say I wasnt that guy, but just cuz paint strippers have been neutered doesnt mean they dont work well if you are competent as he said.No one bitches that paint isnt fully dry and cured for a day in many cases, thats just how paint is. So you have to put a product on that takes a similar amount of time to undo it. Doesnt mean they dont work well if you are competent.Its the same kinda thing when my electrician dad bitches about all the arc fault and gfci rules. Yeah, i get it, its not how it used to be but thats just the modern fucking world. Accept it, buck up and deal.
Now, to actually contribute:OP, if your bike still has the factory paint on it, and you want to protect it, which it sounds like you do, a new layer of paint adhering to the current paint that has been prepped will offer just as much protection, and quality of the outcome will have far more to do with preparing etching and cleaning the surface rather than ensuring its bare metal first.Tl; dr, stripping the paint to metal is probably added steps and not necessary here. Prepare the hell out of the current surface and go wild. Paint is 90 percent prep and all that-
>>2895831This
How do you take your heat?80°C Delta. 43° inside, -18 outside.I scavenge most of our wood for free. roadside pickups account 80% with another 20% from tree trimming at my job & parents. 2 years ago I did pay for 2 cords, one oak & one mesquite. we still have aboot 1/8 of that "good wood" but we mostly burn *free* Elm. wood in our area is insanely expensive. would be 4x to 8x cost of just heating with our mini-splits if we paid market for wood. we only use the mini-splits in the final weeks of "shoulder months"nothing beats the raw nature of a solid fuel fire.what are your brands? what kind of fuel you getting? cost?
>>2892917Pretty sure he meant to not use the stove without fixing the door gasket. First time I read it I had to do a double take too as it is worded oddly.
>>2892362>burns through all the logs in 20 minutesyou're overburning. probably need to take the unit apart and reseal everything, starting with the door. google it.I assume those are exterior walls, in which case I would make sure you have an outside air intake. lots of homes had these installed without one and it effectively makes the entire stove useless. without an outside air intake you will be creating negative pressure in the house which will pull cold air from outside in through every tiny crack, and it will take the hottest air around the stove that you just created and shoot it right up the flue outside your house.
>>2892362Strange design. Where does the air enter the firebox? Also, is the chimney directly connected to the firebox or is there a plate between the two?Since you have a thermal camera, why not fire up the stove and take pictures of it from different angles?
diy stove controller still working wonderfully.
Previous owners of my house had put this sidekick unit next to the LP furnace, but never used it. I just ran it for the first time a few weeks ago, seemed to go well enough. Bit smokey, though, when using hardwood. Is it worth my time to roast my firewood stockpile into charcoal to prevent creosote? Are creosote fires as much of a hazard with these older units as they are with standard fireplaces?
what bulb is this and how can i detach it properly? i unscrewed it and the wires came with it. has the guy that installed this done a cowboy job?
>>2895688the chinks call them "LED corn bulb"
just unscrew it
>>2895688if you are looking for a decent quality replacement, I can recommend GE "Bright Stik" bulbs.They are flicker-free and the diffuser works really well for evenly lighting the space.
>>2895688BA15s or BA15d. Or BA20 s or d The picture you are taking do not expose if its single or dual at the base.The lamp socket is E14. unless its HUGE and E21.
>>2895890It's almost certainly E27. E14's are very small, thinner than butterfinger OP's fingers. E21 doesn't exist.
I tried pic related but it didn't work.cc: Lambright
Oh yeah, well I've backed out of just about everything and that's why I have nothing and no one.Never back out bros. Sieze your opportunities. Say yes to life!
>>2895790>Its not knowledge to aquire skills that require learning?nope. You can know the difference between left and right all you like, but when you're behind the wheel backing that trailer up, it won't help. You need practice.
>>2895244>while looking backwardsI only back up trailers using the mirrors already on vehicles for this task.
#1 thing to do when backing up a trailer is drive properly to get to the spot where you need to back up. Get your trailer following behind you and aimed at where you need it to go. As my old man used to say, "Get your ass behind you" Once you've established the trailer straight behind the tow vehicle and pointed in the right general direction it's usually quite easy to get it to go where you want with small adjustments. I enjoy watching people be fucktarded and try to back into a spot with their trailer still practically jack-knifed behind the tow vehicle and have to do a bunch of steering wheel sawing back and forth to get shit squared around. Quite humorous.
>>2895244If you want to back up straight, If you see the trailer turning in the left mirror then turn your steering wheel left, make sure you only make small imputs.To turn the trailer, turn your steering wheel in the direction you want the trailer to go as you see it in the mirror, when you have the angle you want I think of it like following the trailer through the turn with the car.It not hard just a bit unintuative. small steering inputs make big changes in trailer direction.
Use this thread to ask questions you think don't require a thread of their own.The old thread no longer bumps and is now on page nine: >>2883965If you didn't get a response in the old thread, feel free to ask again here.
>>2897081I tried but can't sharpen it properly>>2897088you can't shred cabbages with a peeler...
>>2897158ah okay I thought they where some sort of peeler with a knife.
So my HVAC guy came in for yearly maintenance and he complains about mold in my vents. Showed me a picture like this and said I should replace them, since the insulation on them is also worn. Seems odd to me though, since they're metal vents, couldn't they just be cleaned down to bare metal again and have a new insulation wrap put on them? Guy wanted almost 11k US to replace them. For reference they're the original vents in a 70s build home.I know the popular science is you don't have to clean your vents, but I just don't like the idea of breathing air filtered through 25+ years of mold growth so I'm trying to educate myself about options.
>>2897270Missing pic but you guys know what mold is.
>>2897270Im too lazy to find the checklist imageBob Vilahttps://www.bobvila.com › articles › mold-in-hvacSolved! Here's Exactly How To Treat Mold in HVAC SystemsJul 14, 2023This way, a professional can locate the mold and recommend a variety of options, from the best air duct cleaning services to the best mold removal companies. If you'd like to take the DIY route ...
In /rcg/ we discuss anything & everything remote controlled - multirotors, fixed wing, cars, rovers, helis, boats, submarines, battlebots, lawnmowers, etc.>How do I get started with racing drones?https://oscarliang.com/mini-quad-racing-guide/https://www.fpvknowitall.com/ultimate-fpv-shopping-list/> How to build a racing drone (16 part video series from Joshua Bardwell)https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLwoDb7WF6c8mWARrcxtX_G6yytK7QFHID>What about planes?https://www.flitetest.com/>What about aerial photography, is DIY viable?Buy a DJI if what you actually want is to take good photos/videos, go DIY if what you actually want is a fun project.Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>2896264I was just coming to ask that, I had one lipo at 11.9 and paired it with next closes one which was 12.3, so maybe .4v difference is too much?
>>2896276More than I'd feel safe with. I only parallel charge packs I've storage charged first. Gotta remember that it's not worth the house fire. Would sooner spend money on another charger.
>>2896181If it’s available in your region, the Turnigy Rapid 5500mAh 3S2P 140C is a tried & tested option for spot welders. It’s what I use for mine & most of the reviews were from people using it for welders rather than for cars.
>>2896809>Turnigy Rapid 5500mAh 3S2P 140Cthanks anon, since I did charge one battery .4v difference it might have been too far apart from 12.3 one I paired in parallel tocharge. I will keep this noted it seems hobbyking has it for 29 USD + ~13 usd for shipping, it seems I will need to buy xt90-xt60 adapter.
>>2894541Liftoff is probably the best all around, but Tryp has better eye candy if your computer can run it.
I want to build a small, rectangular machine that quietly hums and whirrrs, aswell as occasionally beeps with a small red LED that lights up at the same time. what parts would be good to make the machine hum and whirrr but not so loud I couldn't sleep in the same room as it?
>>2893344maybe a lil dehumidifier that collects water and occasionally drips the tank out to some plants
>>2893344>hums and whirrrswhat frequency?
>>2893344are you trying to scare little kids to sleep with you?
>>2893344just grab the oldest desktop computer you can find and take the front of the case off. instant mystery machene. you can even get light up fans. of course at that point, you might want to consider making it work as a stereo receiver or have a hideaway screen and basic preferences set up, like how long before it sleeps. To get really fancy you can acquire a programmable keyboard like pic related and mount it on the wall like a lightswitch.
>>2893344A white noise fan.A speaker attached to a low frequency noise signal.A transformer with so much power through it that you can hear the plasma vibrate the air. (pls don't do that one)
Bought one of these cheap adjustable height / tilt desks, and it's surprisingly decent.There is a plastic piece which stops objects from sliding down the slope.Problem is it's only 10" / 25cm long, which allows anything placed to the sides of it to slide off the desk.I want a stopper which extends the full length of the sloped panel, which is 24" / 60cmThe height of the existing stopper is 9/16" / 1.4cm, but a little lower would be fine.Looking for a black trim of some kind which is- plastic or similar (not cold metal)- edges not narrow/sharp so wrists can rest on it- holds pen/pencilideas?
>>2893754Just wrap fabrics around the edge like its steering wheel cover.
>>2894077>Smaller ones are found in the insulation aisle as weather stripping for sliding doors and windows. We call it B profile strippingFound those but the space between the humps isn't wide/deep enough for pencil/pen>But it would probably easier to use piece of plastic tube or even a wood dowel rod (they also come in half or quarter round)Cutting tube lengthwise straight seems challenging. I initially dismissed using wood because it would need to be painted/finished black to look decent and the finish would be worn/chipped through daily contact, but i realized that I could finish it using heat shrink tubing which would be durable and easy.Also, searching for half round things I found black cable trunking, the typical ones would be too large at ~2" width, but I also found these mini ones which if using two installed parallel would seem to work, so far I like this solution the best.
>>2894013>that's what they put in the sides of boats/docks to protect themyou mean old tires?
>>2893754>extends the full length of the sloped panelwouldn't it put pressure on your wrists whenever you lie your hands on it?
>>2895804Yes, but the shape/material of it makes a big difference in comfort.I can rest my wrist or lower part of palm on that existing stop and it's not terrible because it's plastic with rounded edges.Could be better though! I'm currently leaning towards solution like in pic related. Using those foam/rubber child safety strips at the near side, and mini cable trunking on the other side. All mounted to a piece of flat stock which will allow me to attach everything using the desk's existing screw holes which are located at thirds of the length.
First off WTF isn't "full size keyboard" AND "Max Carry On Size" the two most important factors in laptop size (maybe after A4 paper binder size)???Besides having nice big screen still a inch or more under Carry On, the extra Real Estate will allow nice REAL full-back lite keyboard AND decent Mouse Pad (I like mini-mouse but also learning to use 3D-connection space mouse for Solidworks.) Carry on of 22x14" should allow all 3.Looking at this as monitor. I've got one of those mini-PCs that bolt to the back of monitor that I have never even booted, sitting for IIRC 2.5 yrs. Hope windows or WTF hasn't "expired".I've got something about like this that has close form factors as the mini-PC. Used to run my laptop and tablet full blast for about 8hrs. Pretty sure I could mount two, one on each side of mini-PC on the back of screen, probably at lower corners to help balance. Then maybe a few more on Keyboard board, again to help balance as well as provide run time. I guess I'll be giving up finger pad, but WTF uses that?1.18 x 13.77 x 21.65 inches Right at the limit of 14" and 22", I guess it would need a "soft bag" cover only.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CTKJ2YYV/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?pd_rd_i=B0CTKJ2YYV&pd_rd_w=c0YJv&content-id=amzn1.sym.386c274b-4bfe-4421-9052-a1a56db557ab&pf_rd_p=386c274b-4bfe-4421-9052-a1a56db557ab&pf_rd_r=08324C8376T8S21Z3SBF&pd_rd_wg=adcie&pd_rd_r=55160c72-fb5c-463f-ba41-dc62904288b9&s=electronics&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>2895503you won't do it.
>>2895503>1.18try 3x that. remember you're setting a full keyboard on top of your batteries
>>2895503How'd they get electricity out there?
>>2895742if you pan out you will see they are about 20ft from back porch with mom cooking tendies in the kitchen window, and a couple or tricycles parked.>>2895605Now I'm thinking just use bolt holes on monitor to attach cover/hinge and put all the mini-PC and battery blocks on base. I think total of 6 blocks will fit, so that would be 3 low-profile batts at hinge, and keyboard would sit on the lower height batts. The the PC and two higher profile batts to make wrist rest and mouse area.
>>2895605>1.18>try 3x that. remember you're setting a full keyboard on top of your batteriesI'm thinking more like 4x, but still not an issue.Carry On is IIRC 9" 4-5" would still be typical brief case.
Haven't had a pile of woodchips thread on here in a while. You guys are slacking. Here's some OC content for you guys. Told the guys that trim trees for the power company I'd take all the chips they can bring. They've probably dumped 10 loads so far... Putting them in my cattle pens to fill in some holes and give them more dry bedding to lay and walk on. Figured mixing the wood chips with cow shit and piss will help them break down faster and will end up spreading them on my fields eventually. Also put them in some other low spots and covered some powdery dirt in my sorting alley to help keep dust down. I have a lot of other places I can still put them so hopefully they keep bringing them for a long time.
>>2895519The last town I lived in did that except it was self service. I don't think landscaping companies were allowed to dump their mulch there but between all the parks and right-of-way work the county did and the annual Christmas tree chipping event, there was plenty of mulch there.
>>2895518>those things look handier than a shirt pocket. perfect size for around the farm except for having to listen to the jimmy slobber awayYeah they are little hot rods for sure. 4 wheel steer makes them quick and agile in tight spaces. One bad thing about them is the axles used a ball and claw style u joint that gets worn and falls apart eventually. The one i have all the pictures of needs them replaced. It currently has stops to keep it from steering too far so it doesnt self destruct. I did buy 8 new axle shafts of an upgraded cv design last year, so I have the shafts, seals, bearings and wheel cylinders all on hand and at the ready to tackle a couple loaders. Just need to find the time.
>>2895519>Chips are great for turning mud/dirt into "fully self cleaning surface" you can place items and walk across to fiddle with them, even during rains.Yeah it is amazing how much it has firmed up the slop where I put them so far. Spread quite a bit around the concrete aprons around the watering tanks yesterday. I know they will eventually wear down again but they should last longer than just dirt. The cattle completely turn dirt into powder in heavy travel areas and then it just blows away...
>>2895647the jalopy loader above has the same knuckles. theyre pretty sloppy but theyre 60 years old and that thing doesnt get enough hours a year put on it to justify a fixworst thing about them is the hyd disc brakes. the calipers are dead and parts require a time machine. its a bit sketchy using it on the hillside with no brakes but at least its a powershift so you can hold ut in gear. converting it to air dics brakes would be the best solution but itll be chinese rebar before that happens
>>2895670>the jalopy loader above has the same knuckles. theyre pretty sloppy but theyre 60 years old and that thing doesnt get enough hours a year put on it to justify a fix>worst thing about them is the hyd disc brakes. the calipers are dead and parts require a time machine. its a bit sketchy using it on the hillside with no brakes but at least its a powershift so you can hold ut in gear. converting it to air dics brakes would be the best solution but itll be chinese rebar before that happensThese Michigans have drum brakes. The cleanest one was just straight up hydraulic brakes and the master cylinder shot craps. Ended up looking through the Napa brake catalog and found a master cylinder for a jeep that kinda matched the size and general dimensions of the original and made that work. Of course the wheel cylinders leak too, and in order to get the drums off you have to completely disassemble the planetary reduction hubs... So it's currently got a driveline disk brake on it that I fabbed up. It can be a bit grabby, but as long as I only use it to stop from slow speeds, or hold to keep from rolling it works great. When I swap the axles out and have it all apart anyways I'll put new wheel cylinders on the front and put the best shoes and drums on the front and just run front brakes. Half the potential for leaking that way.
Hello. I bring to this board my pet project of a fired clay ball that I have been trying to make "perfect" for a few months now.As you can see, there is nothing exceptional about it, but I have some minor troubles with it and would appreciate any advice you can give me.First: The surface of the ball is (visibly) rather rough, and I would really enjoy making it perfectly smooth all around. I have achieved something close to a really smooth surface before but lost the method. Is there any particular process to make it perfectly smooth, ideally with a "polished" look?Second: Aesthetically, I would really like to dye it before firing it, either black or white. I have achieved limited success with charcoal dust before, but that project also failed for unrelated reasons. Do you know of any way to add a coloring agent to the clay without ruining it's integrity and texture?I do not have many dedicated tools/resources: The clay is from my backyard, I have sanded the clay's surface with sandpaper and fired in in a fire pit that I use for cooking meat sometimes. (I also have charcoal and wood/charcoal ash, though moderately contaminated with random shit), but can buy whatever assuming it's not too expensive (more than 30$)Thank you in advance for any help.
You could also add some sort of loose fiber mixed in to the clay to lessen the chance of cracks, kind of like how they add fibers to concrete.
bump
>>2892859for pit firing 25%-40% grog is recommended in the clay.
https://www.amazon.com/Smoother-Upgraded-Polisher-Fingernail-Shinning/dp/B0CB57V8FX/these are sold at most stores, about 5$, they can be used to buff stone or fired clay.
UPDATE: after a long and quite laborious process of wet-processing clay into a decent quantity of fine clay and pounding and sieving previous fired balls into a very fine grog, I have mixed roughly 30% grog into the clay and moulded it into a ball using the usual method, now without any sanding. The addition of the grog made working with the clay significantly tougher on the hands and arms, and the material failed the "coil it around your finger and see if it doesn't break" test, but the resulting mixture seems to have dried with only very minimal cracking, and the spoon smoothing method described by >>2892763 worked phenomenally to produce a near mirror finish on the mostly dry ball. Now, the final step is letting it dry for longer to guarantee there's no water left trapped in there, then finally fire it in the fire pit using charcoal. There is a problem that I am afraid the charcoal could scratch or damage the exterior of the ball, does anyone have any ideas to possibly address this before it becomes an issue?>>2893226I lack the furnace or glazing material to do glazing. Applying a layer or epoxy or similar resin could work but it would feel like a bit of a cop-out.>>2893227An interesting idea that I have seen done in a YouTube video (some guy recreating a Muslim scholar's recipe for clay, included using starch from boiled rice and clumps of hair as fibers) but I mostly want to avoid anything that could degrade over time or possibly rot like grass, bark or hair.>>2894545I see. I hope my approximate 30% holds up during the rest of the drying and firing process.>>2894608Hmm. Very interesting, this could be pretty good. I'll see how my current spoon-smoothed ball turns out, but this lead seems very promising, thank you.
I put my motherboard into a PC case with a broken power button. I really don't want to reinstall everything in a new case. I was thinking I could use a momentary SPST switch.Is that possible? Can I just put a new header on, thread that cable into the back of a button with the cable threaded through the case grille holes, and secure that button to the top of the case? Thanks bros
>>2894458>>i have no idea how it works but i need to look cool for the threadstfu cuck, it's a momentary toggle switch
>>2895131>25 fucking dollars for one damn switch
>>2895161welcome to trump's USA
>>2895161You'll never be /fa/ if you refuse to spend on novelty.
>>2894193i just touch a screwdriver to the mobo power pins to turn mine on.the power switch and wires are bloat
Hey /diy/, I have an asbestos problem I just discovered today and I need to know if I'm being dangerously exposed. I've been losing sleep over it literally just now.What you're looking at is a hole in the front entrance of our house that a plumber cut open today to pinpoint a leak in the steam piping under a radiator upstairs. He said "Oh look, you've got asbestos here, policy doesn't allow me to continue working around it, personally I'd turn off the heat completely to minimize perturbing it but since this is a slow mist of steam passing over it, it's probably dampened and therefore less airborne and dangerous". So I believed the latter part and just thought I'd wait until tomorrow because we have a separate company coming in to replace the boiler and thought maybe they could remove it. I didn't want to cover the hole because I thought that would direct the steam further into the walls and cause a mold problem.Anyway, before going to bed my mind started racing about if the steam is in fact spreading the asbestos around the first floor to dangerous levels or not. I'll let you guys judge
>>2892527It’s just a specific kind of dust that is friable into sharp microscopic fibers that has a statistical chance of impaling cells in such a way that it “injures” the DNA so that it causes cancer. See picrel.Statistically, if you inhale billions of these fibers over a period of 40 years working 10 hours a a day in an asbestos processing plant without a mask, you will have a higher chance of it making you sick than inhaling zero fibers.You’re closer to the zero fibers side of things.Every uvc photon that hits you when you go outside in the sun has a chance of causing skin cancer.
>>2892527>Oh look, you've got asbestos hereMight not be asbestos. Most likely scenario is the plumber looked at that insulation and though "that shit's old, it could be asbestos" and didn't want to dick around with it. To know for sure you'd need an asbestos abatement company to come out and test it to see if the material actually contains asbestos or not. Be it that nasty old insulation full of rot or whatever that sheathing is on the ceiling.Either way, if you just wear a mask when fixing the leak, then seal the hole back up afterwards you should be fine. Your walls & ceilings having asbestos inside of them somewhere has almost no chance of harming you since the materials are contained.
Asbestos is not radioactive and it is not a toxic spore either dude. You also can't just know it's asbestos by looking at it, the plumber was full of shit. You dont "catch asbestos" and then die or some shit.If that were the case you could use some basic logic and deduce that people wouldn't have spent decades working in asbestos factories before having problems and millions more kids would have issues from going to school in buildings insulated with asbestos. Do you think school buildings never had a leak and were always in tip top shape?Its crazy what people this asbestos is versus what it actually is. Its the same with lead.
As far as risk and rules go, if you are in a building old enough for asbestos to be a think youre also in a building old enough for lead paint to be a thing, the cutting should all be dustless etc, i would bet mr. Plumber didnt do any of that so that gives the mouthfeel that he was just full of shit and didnt wanna play with your stuff.
>>2892527It's the paper stuff around the pipe. It's basically harmless. Spray it with water until it's pretty wet, take it off, put it in a plastic bag, tie the bag off, call the plumber back out, and when he gets there tell him he's a gigantic homo.