I live ludicrously far from all laundromats, they charge a pretty fucking penny for a wash and a full dry, and I have no vehicle, no friends willing to drive me to a mat, no family in my town, and churning clothes like butter in hot bathwater with the head of those detachable mop handles for 4 hours is starting to lose its luster. The drying I can take. Is there a faster or better alternative, especially a ghetto, simple one, when I live a poor life, mostly due to living costs?Don't say move. This is literally the best gig a fella like me can get. Not because of any record but because it's all bills paid and they didn't ask for a lease agreement.
>>3000315>Wild I can't soak things like that on a modern washing machineYou can with a top loader. Just don't get one of the gay purple ones they market to women. Turn it on, let the machine fill up, turn it off.
>>3004537it won't fill up with the lid open and it won't unlock until it's drained
>>3004537>>3004541oh you mean turn it off. huh guess it could be that easy
>>2997901“My tenant installed a washing machine I think I might go on a mass shooting today in response” whoa calm down landie lordie larpey
>>3002167You can get a heat pump dryer that runs on 120 and has no vent. But they're more expensive than a 240 electric or gas dryer
Why have all the big box store websites just turned into Amazon?The Aisle/Bin# is never right, and whether or not it's in stock at my nearest store is never right.Then I'd say 75% of ALL the products on their website is online only. Same with Walmart.Harbor Freight, strangely enough, has the most useful website of all the big names.
>>2999639But that’s something you can calculate. There’s probably some basic research on that already (percentages of loss, depending on the type of product and ethnici…err location of your store and all that stuff, and with the occasional inventory, you adjust the numbers to fit your exact pattern and you add some safety margin on top and you should be good)
>>2999678Not really. You could project maybe a total $ of expected loss, but did Mr. Rosenberg take a can of spray foam or a polyurethane post setting pack? When he reached back to grab it did he knock a 1ah Bosch battery down the shelf or a 2ah? Where did he hide the snickers bar fkr later?
>>2998475No, they're 10x more bloated and load like shit
>>2998511Seething poopjeet.
>>2998511
http://youtube.com/post/UgkxHdb4wbicW-4jN1IWSmnu5r_WvPp5_gCs?si=NZE61hLH---nRTid
6.75×5.25m total, comprised of two structures in one. solar shed is 2.5×5.25m. barn side is 4.25×5.25m.solar equipment shed was built by me and my 81-82 y/o (at the time) dad from 4/2023 to 6/2024. barn construction began 2/2025 and was bult mostly by me with some help from my wife. wife's rabbit business partner/friend and her husband helped install the steel roof and siding. the roll-up door arrives in 4 weeks, but the actual building(s) construction is complete as of 5/2026.solar shed houses inverter & batteries with our smaller 2440w array mounted on the roof. larger 4450w array is ground mounted just south of it. power to the house is buried in conduit that runs under the barn side. shed also stores building materials and garden tools. Barn side is dedicated to wife's rabbit business.shed side is 2x4 walls, 2x6 rafters, on concrete slab foundation, OSB sheathing and composition shingle roof. barn side is pole barn construction with 4x4 posts set 1m deep in concrete, furring strips between posts for steel R-panel siding and roof. there is one 2x4 stud wall on the north, also furred for steel siding, but it is not load bearing in the traditional sense. the barn currently has a dirt floor.all built on an extreme budget using lots of repurposed & scrap materials. shed cost aboot $975 all-in. barn was more expensive, less scrap/repurposed material @ $4,150. total structure $5,175 includes every screw, wire, conduit, panel, lumber, doors, window, concrete & trench machine rental.solar system provides 85%-110% of our power, total cost: $15,200. system layout designed by me, DIY install, grid-tied, non-export, self-consumption. all pricing in CAD. Dad's still happy, healthy and doing Dad stuff with Mum @ their house.
>>3001897you should write a book that no one will read
sprayfoam completed yesterday. paid in full, with ~$975 left over in the "bunny money" bank. I still need to order and install the barrel/header brush seal for the roll-up door. brush seal is only ~$60. it will seal a 65mm×185cm air gap which i assume it will make a noticeable difference in heat/cool loss/exchange. we have a 14° delta inside/outside. mini-split is humming along nicely. with all 3 units running overnight plus all household static loads, we only pulled ~1300W on average. despite that, the new mini-split is a noticeable increase in load added to our system. this makes the planned December expansion/upgrade critical. once ordered and installed we will go from 6890w to 9050w PV through our solark system. after that, we will reinstall the 2440w array as two separate 4 panel arrays, each connected to a mini-split. one for Great Room and one for barn. this will totally remove 2/3 of our potential HVAC loads during solar hours. the December upgrade will also include a 5th Pytes LifePO4 which will expand our storage capacity by 25%. we already have the cash to buy the upgrade, but will wait until December. by that time, we should have 2x the nessesary funding which leaves us in a better financial position going into the new year. I will use the next 4.5 months to purchase all of the railing, wiring and concrete to fabricate and install the ground mount support structures for the panels.
The GIFtour
>>3001814kek this is for sure going in the next abominations thread, thank you for posting such a perfect example
sealed the 183cm×65mm air gap between the header and the roll-up door barrel and leveled the dirt at the bottm seal until I can dig and pour a concrete threshold. i adjusted the kerf seal on the bottom 1/3 of the west wall man door to eliminate gap.we got all the rabbits moved in last weekend, so temperature data includes ~3000btu of rabbit bodyheat & respiration offset. 15°Δ inside/outside the barn during the hottest part of the day. humidity stays between 40% to 50%. Mini-split was only pulling around 400w. it draws noticeably less since the sealing I did yesterday. I installed a temporary 2nd light fixture until the 4500lm 5000k fixture arrives. the window provides natural light, but being on the west side it also increases thermal load. we have some cellular darkening shades on order, but have it temporarily covered until they arrive.
I recently found out that someone (Not going to say who.) has been smoking in the house in places i thought we agreed are no smoking areas and now i need to learn how to clean the smoke out of the rooms.Is it possible to use steam to clean a room that has been smoked in?Can i use soap water and turn it into steam, let is spread across the whole entire room and let it sit there for a while to clean the room and everything in it?Will it cause much damages to anything such as electronics and even the house itself?
>>3002030>Clearly you've never been in a chainsmoker's housekekItt: a bunch of little girls
>>3001461>>3001465Both are very strong oxidisers, will attack and bleach textiles, fabric, plastic, wood and more. Obviously very unhealthy to inhale.
>>3001607Depends. If it's a hot/cute girl I would definitely want her brapping my couches.
>>3002037>>3002031As long as it's not long-term exposure, ozone should be fine. Damage will be negligible for a short burst. Remove anything living, block up the room, and leave an ozone source in there for a few hours. That's how hotels deal with rooms that have been smoked in, you can get high power ozone generators for this purpose.General rule of thumb is that if you can smell it, ozone levels are unhealthy to be around. Wait until it's dissipated before staying in the room for any length of time.
just open the fucking windows for 10 mins... and clean the place, bitch... this time for real... not aromatic candles.
What's your go-to wrench set? How often do you find yourself using a wrench versus sockets?Debating getting a flex ratcheting head combination wrench set + fixed box end set, versus a fixed combination set and those long flex ratchet head wrenches. I've been getting by with just sockets and a pliers wrench, but I'm going to be working on a bigger variety of stuff soon.
>>3003308This. I've had some use out of my set of ratcheting wrenches, but mostly it's been just the regular combination wrenches that came with my socket set that has came in handy. I'd rather get decent ratchet with flex extensions and breaker bar and normal wrenches instead of ratcheting wrench. Get the special wrenches at the point you need them for a job.
>>3003308I was a master mechanic building and installing motors on site for five years.ratchet box end wrenches without a toggle are the best all around i guess, the toggle on a ratchet end wrench is annoying, and sometimes you do need the open end. would not recommend regular box end wrenches unless you are getting everything. the ratcheting ones today are not thicker, maybe a mm. that being said most of the smaller half of my regular wrenches were shaved thinner on the shop grinder. 90% of the time if im not using a bit driver im reaching for these. gladly replaced the 17/19 every year when it came apart from turning suspension bolts you should us a 1/2 impact on. these are thinner than any ratchet and socket, bite from a wide angle, absolute favorite.the thinnest-thinnest access is with a set of these sunex shallow sockets that have a 17 hex on the shank, so you can put the socket onto the nut or bolt, and then slide in a shaved wrench to turn it, or the flex head double end ratchet, which can work at a steep angle as well to get around or behind corners.absolutely everyone gorilla hangs off their ratcheting wrenches, you can abuse them as much as you want they will not break, you can hammer the other end with an airhammer.
>>3004257*im reach for these 90% of the time
>>3003308>>3004235I'm in agreement with these two. Just get some good quality open/box combination wrenches in both standard and metric. They will fit where ratcheting head wrenches won't. Then when you can afford it get a second set of each, because sometimes you need two wrenches of the same size when working on stuff. After that get some ratcheting wrenches, I kinda like the flat non reversible ones for general stuff. After that some short/thin hydraulic wrenches or double angle open end wrenches for real shitty hard to get to places and hydraulic lines...
>>3003294>Go to wrench setI just bought the individual sizes I need for the bolts on my car, and inherited a disaster of a tool collection from my grandfather, who would hoard random shit he'd find in a completely disorganized way.>Wrench vs socketsSockets when I can physically get to a bolt with a ratchet, or when I need some ungodly combination of extensions to reach it, wrench otherwise. Working on cars or complex machinery, you often don't have a choice, only one or the other will work for a particular fastener.
On market for YEARS. Chinese RE Agent.WTF is wrong with it?Toxic waste dump?Looks like someone wanted to make an indoor dope grow.https://www.zillow.com/homedetails/40646-S-Highway-26-Keota-OK-74941/395396116_zpid/
>>2998824>WTF is wrong with it?>OklahomaFound the problem.
>>3001010There is a reason we gave most of that place to the Indians. It was the least valuable land in the contiguous USA. Hell, the whole reason they have a panhandle is because even Texas didn't want that strip of land. It has to be pretty fucking bad when people that voluntarily live in places like Waco go "Jesus, at least I don't live there."
a proper drainfield for the 'holding tank' will cost around 8k. same for new septic tank if the holding tank somehow isn't compatible. so just add that to cost of buyas it goesalways get the well water tested as well, probably costs 100-200$but if it's shit you'll need 10k/10 yr in filtration
>>2998833Homesteading? You can grow enough potatoes and sweet potatoes to sustain the carb needs of a family. If you put in a few ponds you can harvest tilapia, channel catfish, sunfish and bass. Add chickens and maybe a few goats and you're just about sustainable. Now you just gotta pick whatever crops that grow well in that area. Im not saying it isnt hard work, but I think its workable.
2 houses on one property is almost impossible to get a mortgage for
Hey guys, just picked up a robbins and myer list number 2706 fan with the 5 brass blades. Some previous owner snipped the cord on it, so I would like to replace the cord and the bottom felt. The brass fan blades have seen their age as well but I will keep them.Would this fan only run through a 36v power supply? I am assuming so. I will get photos when I get back to the house, here is one I pulled from image search.
>>3001583If the motor is really 32v, then it already has a built in power supply/transformer to take the 120v incoming and turn it into 32v. Just replace the wire.
>>3004255>>3004256Hahaha, god damn are you fucking ignorant. Stay in school kids.They didn't put AC to DC power converters in 100 year old desktop fans. You know what they did have? All sorts of weird power standards across the US. How did they handle that? By tailoring their products to use whatever power was available in a specific area. Wiring a motor to operate at 32 volts from the factory is easy as fuck for these old school motors. They weren't efficient but they were dead simple and easy to adapt.Since every region had its own power plant operated by an independent company their line power could be fucking anything. Sometimes it wasn't even a 'power' company. It was just the local factory or mill selling excess generation to the locals. Mostly their generators powered lighting systems or motors. The voltage they used depended on what was best in their specific case. Did they use Westinghouse (AC) or Edison (DC) products? Fractional horsepower (e.g. sewing machines) or larger motors (e.g. engine lathes)?Or sometimes not even that. Some people had completely battery operated systems that were charged by an onsite generator a few times a month. Back then lighting was the biggest user of power and batteries were expensive a fuck. They were still cheaper than using an always on generator that could handle variable loads but they weren't cheap. Wire was expensive too. You could power the system at 6 volts DC to save on batteries but then your wire would need to be fucking huge. Or you could power your system at 100 volts DC but then you could need a fuckton of batteries because most batteries could only store 2-3 volts.Fuck man, old appliances used to use Edison screw terminals so you could plug them into light sockets because that was all anyone HAD. Power outlets weren't a thing yet. So, yeah, some appliances used weird voltages. That fan was likely meant to be used on a 32 volt DC system that was battery powered, not wired into the electrical grid.
>>3004326To continue. The two-prong plug we use today? The first version of it didn't come out until 1930! Edison's first power plant that sold power to the general public opened in 1882. 48 years of people doing whatever the fuck they wanted in terms of connecting things other than lights to the power system.If anyone wants to see how the did this shit back in the day (1926) check this out: Graybar Electric Company Catalog No 101https://archive.org/details/graybarelectricc0000unseIf you wanted to start your own power company this was the catalog you bought everything from. 743 pages illustrated. Picture fucking related. Anything look familiar?
>>3004326>>3004327This got me curious enough to look into 32V DC systems and where they were used. As you say they were usually battery powered and it sounds like they mostly existed in rural areas, especially farms, where they'd use generators or sometimes windmills to charge the batts. Apparently this lasted surprisingly late, with 32v stuff being made into the late 40s, and they'd often wire stuff to 110 standards (of the time, anyway) and use standard plugs and sockets so they could just hook up to the grid when it eventually got to them, which has led to a lot of burned out radios and other stuff in later years because people saw a normal-looking plug and stuck it in a 110 socket. I wonder if that's why the cord has been chopped off of OP's fan.
>>3004328More likely the insulation on the cord went to shit and they cut it off so no one would try and plug it in. They used cloth, rubber, or even asphalt insulation back then and it simply falls apart after a while even when stored in good conditions. It also likely would have had an Edison screw type plug on it like the toaster pictured here >>3004326.
I'm trying to create an inner shell for my garage in order to soundproof it and AAC came up. Worth it?
>>3002776aac is fine as a structural material to hold your roof, maybe a second floorjust don't fucking make the roof itself out of it ffs
>>3004089>What does painting the interior walls do to stop it from drying to the outside wallnothing, if you don't live in places where it's wetter and hotter outside than inside most of the year. otherwise, mold, right on the back side of your semi-permeable paint expanding from there.
>>3004118Either way, this doesn't really sound like an issue with drying to the OUTSIDE.In hotter/wetter areas like you described, sounds like your just fucking up drying to the INSIDE with the paint lol. Vapor that condensates in the wall never dries to the humid outside, it comes in to your dry cold ac air and evaps there
>>3004182>Either way, this doesn't really sound like an issue with drying to the OUTSIDE.yes, if you don't make a vapor barrier using paint on the OUTSIDE then OUTSIDE will not be prevented from drying, thanks for noting this.>it comes in to your dry cold ac air and evaps thereit hugely depends on your ventilation and AC setup, centralized forced ventilation that dries all the incoming air at once will generally be fine but an old naturally aspirated house with an AC installed later might not.
>>3004211>if you don't make a vapor barrier using paint on the OUTSIDE then OUTSIDE will not be prevented from dryingWe're literally talking about interior walls being painted, what? My whole point was>What does painting the interior walls do to stop it from drying to the outside wallOriginally Anon (Or yourself, idk) said don't paint inside and create a vapor barrier that stops drying to the outside. Which we seem to agree, isn't how that works>it hugely depends on your ventilation and AC setupI mean yah for sure, I was thinking as a rule of thumb for modern(ish) houses with central air and insulation. Anything older that was meant to be completely air open like Victorian homes is gonna get fucked by basically any modern materials/methods.I mean look at Cape Cods, that was 1930s-50s homes with insulation and central air (at least heating) and they still fucked up how those houses wick away moisture.
What would you do to lock the tabletop to the frame but not permanently? I was thinking simply using chains. The color of the top has been edited in the photo
>>3004164
>>3004164>lock the tabletop to the frame but not permanently?Screws are not permanent.Screw through the ends of the tabletop rails into the corner blocks on the frame.
I think slide bolts at the corners would be elegant, you may need to add a bit of wood for it to slide into though.
Interesting replies, thanks
>>3004262>probably because they're locks for window sashes>implying
wat a girl do
>>3003922She died?
>>3003960She got fat.
>>3004005All the better to make babies with.
>>3003922My great grandmother was the first waman welder in my state
>>3001343>wat a girl doTypically, larping for tiktok/youtube clicks.
>fell for the new construction meme>moved in>immediately noticed super strong chemical smells>eyes constantly burn >sore throat>difficulty breathing>tried opening up windows and putting in fans>doesn't appear to be making much a difference>bought one of those airtfilters from shartmart>didn't helpIs there anyway to eliminate the fumes? I don't really want to drop $1k on one of those high end medical air filtration systems, but I literally feel like I'm dying
>>3003416no FUCK YOUIt's literally giving me asthma. I woke up feeling like I was a pack a day smoker. I left for a few days and cleared up. It's not just the unpleasantness of the odor, it's fucking up my health.
>>3003885Well, I'll tell you what friendo...you're going to need to cut a hole in the wall and take samples to send for chemical testing. If you have an unreacted chemical issue, it should show up in a test. Depending on the manufacturer, it might be colored (CCM Flexible Fast is bright blue, OMG Ollybond is red, OMG Ollyfil is purple etc.) so you can identify what they used.
Hey fuckwits talking about spray foam,did OP imply he had any knowledge of the type of insulation?has there been any implication its not cheap as hell pink batting in the walls and blown in cellulose in the attic, the cheapest way to get the needed r-values for walls and ceilings?has he implied this is a custom build or that he had any decision making in the materials used?where is the the idea that spray foam, which costs 3-5 times what batting does come from, other than retards assuming things on the internet? dollars to donuts this is a cookie cutter house, budget as hell, and doesnt have spray foam anywhereget real, losers. OP is likely a hypochondriac with a victim complex who cant stand the smell of carpet glue.
>>3004146spray foam is triple retarded when you factor in the cost lmfao
>>3004146Well, if smells like wet dog or stinky pussy, it's 100% some sort of isocyanurate product. If you have ever smelled a wet piece of polyiso insulation, you know what I'm talking about
So /g/, I'm a computer guy first, and a very amateur electrician, but recently I had an interesting (to me) though. I was borrowing one of those electric kettle thingies with that circular base from a neighbor and I almost walked out of the door with just the kettle, and they joked passively about me not taking the base with saying that I could probably rig it to work without it, and that got me wondering if I can with maybe like a spare IEC 60320 C19 250V, 16A power cable. But, I can't find freely available specifications for KSD686-CF 250V, 13A online, which would be critical for an amateur like me to actually try to pull it off. Seems it's exclusively just chinese or russian sellers selling it with no specs.Do any of you know where I could find something like that? Sorry if this didn't deserve a thread.
>>3003930>Basically pointlessly stupid shitMan you said it yourself. /thread
>>3003808This is definitely a nefarious use-case but I can’t tell what it is yet.
>>3003808Look: Just take a power cord, remove the appliance end, strip the qires back and shove in the bottom of the kettle. It will work. Easy as. If it trips the breaker clear the short and try again. Or just buy one.
>>3003930Are you retarted? You have Line and Neutral. In case of primitive devices like heating elements, even if you wire that backwards it will still work fine and it doesn't matter that much for basic circutry.in the states you have basically black and white wires for that.You might also have a ground wire that connects to the chassis, but that's if it the kettle is expensive enough.
>>3004063>>3004194Oh, thanks anons.I come from a computers background, so majorly my experience with electrical engineering comes from wiring electronics on breadboards or PCBs with a DC power supply/Adaptor and while I do realize that for simple resistors it doesn't matter which way you wire them, I still like to err on the side of caution, especially when there is a ground in the appliance. For all I know there might be some electronics equipment on board (Doesn't look like it), so I thought that the specifications for either the KSD686 inlet or the connector would be useful to have. But I'll try just jamming the stuff in there. Thanks.
Any DIY way for direct sun gazing during this eclipse?
>>3004156
>>3004157Why the fuck would I want to watch a projected image? Just watch it on TV at that point. Anyway, I had fun, probably didn't blow my eyes out.
>>3004148why would i?
>>3004157is the text on this super low res or did I fry my retinal membranes
>>3004131One yesr I looked at it through three pairs of sunglasses. It worked
I’m in Australia so I need to mount this upside down (with the angle supports on top). But seriously, the only wall I can put this that has a high enough ceiling also has a door that opens directly into it and would hit the gussets/angle supports. I need a bracket that either has the supports on top of not at all. Not having any luck with google, just getting bookshelf brackets and $500 heavy machinery specific bracketsNot keen to just put the brackets upside down in case the welds let go and it brains me
>>3003987>>3003988how much of a weighted pullup is safe for the welds? Can I store spare plates on this? I'd like to see the calculations.
>>3003978Attach outside ends to ceiling, no need for angle supports.
>>3004046Yes sand no. That's fine if the door opens outwards like in your pic, but if the door opens inward, the angle bracket only allows the door to open to 90 degrees.
>>3004097Bad faith argument.It's not a rack for you to store plates on it's obviously a pull up bar.>weighted pullupsYes it's safe. There's a limit to weighted pullups, most guys can't even and wont ever add their own body weight.>CalculationsNo one has the data on this. Welds are - as I have explained you imbecile - done by feel and not a fabrication sheet. And do it yourself you insufferable fag, why would anyone else?
>>3004132Just say you don't know, it's easy.
