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how do i make my room better?

also male living space thread
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it's not the quantity of stuff that makes you look like a psycho, it's that it looks like you live entirely in one corner of the room
move the computer to like the other corner or somewhere, then move the tv somewhere else and get a lounge. get a bed frame too
the quantity of "stuff" in the other corner there isn't helping. I don't even know what half of those things are. Did you actually think that having a second mattress just leaning against a wall would make you look less like a psycho?
this is all assuming you want to be able to have a woman in there and not have her instantly assume she's going to be held captive for 40 years. if that's of no consequence to you just keep doing what you're doing I guess
dude ok clean your room
think of it like a bacterial fungal nature atttacking you
everytime that room heats up
it aerolizes toxic plastic and fungal spores
your lungs are actually fighting a creature you have created
> 60+ gallon fish tank
> put cool plants in
> fill with fren
> now you have fren and cool plants
>get together with friends box
oh I am lmaoing irl here
Oh man, now I see it too!

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Hi, I have a large fish tank and I’ve been considering adding some kind of real animal bone or skeletal system inside. Something for things to grow off and hide under that’s natural

Just wondering

A) if the bone is boiled beforehand, is this enough to ensure it won’t bring anything to hurt the fish?

B) it sounds like a common side effect of using real bone is it affects the PH level? Any advice on this, what it does, how to counteract?

C) other main issue I’ve heard is that bone over time or rather quickly can dissolve in water enough to start leaking calcium. Making the water hard and unhealthy for fish. Is cracking the bones to cleanse the marrow enough to fix this? Or letting it leak out in a separate water area first then adding it to the tank?

Or is coating it in resin literally the only safe way? Ideally this would gradually dissolve over time. Have flora and fauna grow on it. Become a living part of the tank until it’s impossible to even tell it was bone at one point. An artificial skull or whatever from a common store isn’t what I’m looking for
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Bleach the skull. Make sure the insides are scorched clean
Is this a walstad/plant filtered tank or is it your generic filter, pebbles, and water correction chemicals tank? If it's a walstad and your fish aren't too sensitive of a species, I wouldn't worry about the calcium as long as you do a 20%water change once a week or 50%every two weeks. Plants would absorb a lot of the calcium and water changes would reduce free floating ppm of calcium. I believe calcium makes the water more basic, so if your fish don't require water on the low end of the spectrum I would say it's a-ok.

The biggest concern would be marrow in the bone containing parasites that don't boil out/die and the decomposition of marrow. Perhaps another anon has a solution to that.

I don't know much about filtered tanks to say anything on it
I forgot to add that the size of everything plays a big factor as well. Shoving a fox skull in a ten gallon tank is different than a cat skull in a 75 gallon tank. So just keep in mind you may not want whatever you put into the tank to dominate tank space as it will have that much more of a dramatic effect on changes in water quality.

One more consideration is that if you aren't able to remove marrow, the bones will produce a lot of oil that leaks into the water. This might be mitigated by water changes, but it's definitely something to think about. You can degrease the bones, but that oil will comeback eventually, faster in the water I'd imagine.

If you want advice on how to whiten bones just lmk
you and this thread are retarded to the point where I actually doubt you have a fish tank at all
Should be good if you boil it
I'd also be careful about knocking down sharp edges and places where your fish could get hurt.

Yea I imagine it would change the pH over time. Likely as a result of decomp lowering the pH.
Get an aquarium substrate with ill pH buffer.

Yea it will increase the water hardness over time.
Probabl6ly good to get a water hardness testing kit and some ion exchange resin beads for your filter if the hardness becomes a problem.

Btw Op what fish do you have? And how is your aquarium planted?

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So I moved to a new home. The old geezer living there had a workshop he used as a dump for the last few years of his dementia riddled trip.
Now I have to clean it up and throw away a ton of old-people stuff old people tend to collect (lifetime supply of rusty screws and bolts and mousetraps).
That's not so bad. But the place reeks like it looks.
How can I make it smell better? I'm not into homosexual scents like vanilla, flowers or whatever femoids buy for the home smell. I'd rather have a non-gay manly smell like pine or so.
Pls give tips how to get rid of old people dementia smell and make workshop smell rly nice.
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Muratic acid
Burn wintergreen. It's called "smudging" and worked great when I was a landlord. Basically you bag your smoke detectors and smoke out the room to be treated. Kicks ass.
Not terrible, i was going to suggest baking soda desiccants to limit the scent radius, so you can identify the problem area.
couple days with baking soda inside couple hours baking soda in the sun.
this, i felt like a priest blessing my home.
Clean up first then nuke with ozone generator.
Build a new workbench or some shelves out of pine dipshit.

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>fix things for other people
>99% success rate
>save them tons of money
>fix things at work
>save time, materials, make things more efficient
>only makes other people more money, not me
>fix things for myself
>minor irrelevant shit that doesn't actually means anything
>goes perfect
>anything actually meaningful for improving things for myself
>turns to shit, never works, unobtainium parts, breaks
>completely breaks my morale and just reminds me about the shit that I fucked up or wasn't able to fix even from a decade ago despite it being outweighed in dollar value by the stuff I actually fixed.
This happen to anyone else?
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no. I don't fix things for other people. My neighbors are handy-capped and it would be an endless quagmire. The kind of never ending battle I moved away from my parents to avoid. I do things for myself and save a lot of money. They go well because I'm not a loser sperg. I don't see the point in going to a job earning money, paying taxes on that money, then handing it over to some handyman to fuck your shit up for you.
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seeking some kind validation for fixing things in this broken gay world? not gonna happen.
Based on your story, if it’s actually true, you should stop trying to fix important things in your life. Work hard, save money, then buy those things.

Your problem might be that you see 100 things out there you can fix, so you do. But you have a large pool to choose from. You pick things you can easily fix. But the specific problems issues that would save you money.. that’s a much much smaller subset of things. So you are probably stretching your ability ( or just lack experience ).

It’s an easy trap to fall into. I do something similar with helping other people with their businesses.

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Hey guys does this look like mold? I've been sick as fuck with toxic mold symptoms lately and this is all over the floor in my bedroom. I
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the real scam here is that you had to pay 7 years to constantly clean up unnecessary bullshit that could have been easily and cheaply prevented with new drywall and cement board
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Idk brah, I went to the ER for a mystery "virus" recently.
>bile heavy diarrhea
>oddball neurological shit like increased taste senaitivity
>blood pressure high in optic nerves
>metabolic disruption
The doc does work at some viral clinic on the side and said this oddball 3rd world thing like astrovirus is going around. Maybe were all getting sprayed with aersolized mold
rent there was cheap we didn't mind much
holy crap, lit on fire, covered in a metal sheet that randomly ignites plus a metal sheet that extrudes an acid. total organic death molecular beatdown.
Fake news

Also call a mold testing company. Or have your landlord do it. They can test air quality and other shit.

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Big Alkaline doesn't want you to know that you can just recharge the batteries. they claim that it will explode, but i've had this thing going for multiple hours now. what other tricks do (((they))) not want you to know?
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>burns your house down
nothing personnel, kid.
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>I want more regulations
>huffing asbestos is le good
They use the shitty ones that failed quality control, so they're good enough to put electricity out but not good enough to trust it going back in.
are those ones not able to be charged at all? not even at low capacity and low current?

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Hi /diy/.
My parents have passed down to me this Lane coffee table, it's been in my family for a long time. However it's definitely seen better days, and I would like to restore it to it's former glory so I can continue to pass it down. I would like some advice as to how I should go about this, I've never refinished or restored furniture before. Also I will attach more pics showing the damage in more detail.
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According to >>2786591 it's veneer over particle board and still available. If that's true then this is the perfect piece for OP to practice on. It's not rocket science.
True, I really don't want to fuck it up. I have some other worn furniture so I'll probably give that a go first for practice.
both of his veneer videos were garbage that he just removed and applied new veneer stickers. Is there an actual way to save wood veneer that isn't on garbage?
yes you just sand it, but if you sand it you remove wood. it can only be done once or twice (usually once) before you'll sand all the way through the veneer. so if you elect to restore it like that it could be detrimental to the longevity of the piece. you could use citrus strip and some 0000 steel wool, and then refinish it, but as you said you should try some other cheap wood furniture first before trying the piece that carries sentimental weight for you.
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The problem with mine, and yeah it's an heirloom, is that the veneer is bubbling where it's been damaged. I feel like I should do something to stabilize the veneer before I sand.

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how do you get homeboy out in 27 hours, /diy/? i think with more know-how they could have saved this retard.
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pretty sure what they carry is MS, not fentanyl.
>he shouldn't have gone down the Birth Canal in the first place
the same is true for most people.
>"On my way to page 10"
it's a terrible fucking warning
that would be a "pretty good" warning
drill the bottom part and retain the integrity of the overall cave?

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So my house has aluminum siding nailed over what appears to be the original siding from 1900. (Asphalt shingles over wood so old it's turned soft.) At some point in the future, I'd like to remove the aluminum siding, strip the old siding off completely, install 2x4s on the frame, put a vapor barrier and R-15 Rockwool in, and then nail the aluminum siding back on.

My main goal is sound reduction. (I'm tired as fuck of being able to hear neighbors talking in their yards from the opposite side of my place.) Saving money on gas and electricity is a bonus.

That's the scenario. Here are the questions.

First, am I going to actually get my money's worth from this in terms of sound reduction? (I'm aware that mass-loaded vinyl would be better, but that would damn near double the estimated cost. I don't want to do that unless it's absolutely necessary.) I don't want to drop money and time on materials and labor for no real results.

Second, if there is a better cheap option besides mass-loaded vinyl, what is it?

Third, am I missing anything or making any glaring mistakes?
1 reply omitted. Click here to view.
you need sheets of osb and waterproofing over the rockwool

if you want to reduce sound, try a layer of blockwork with a gap

sound travel through gaps so check your windows for air seal
Anon what did it for me is sealing everything.
Insulation in walls helps because it stops them from resonating.
I can't even hear neighbours gunshots anymore.
Oh also, the old siding was nailed directly to studs over some tar paper. OSBing the wall in general improved the nicness of living there.>>2784567
The quick and dirty solution would be installing rigid rockwool boards and furring strips on top of the shingles (in this configuration the shingles actually reduce sound transmission). Then fasten your aluminum siding to the furring strips. Would improve things, but probably not as much as you'd like.

The best acoustical solution in wood frame looks like pic related.
- Double stud with uninterrupted gap between them
- insulation in both stud cavities
- studs staggered
- double layer of drywall on both sides (can be on top of OSB, but should be exterior rated drywall on exterior side)

If you want to go the extra mile, mount your interior drywall or maybe your exterior OSB on resilient channels or "genie clips", but we're reaching the point of diminishing returns since as other posters pointed out, points of leakage, doors and windows, will defeat your wall.

>wood so old it's turned soft.
that's concerning - wood should harden with age, otherwise it could be high moisture levels rotting it.

That's good to know, thanks.

And I'm assuming that it's wood under the original shingles. It looks like wood fibers, but it could be something else.

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Hello folks,

total beginner here, no idea about anything.

I have the following project: I want to build a kind of lattice frame with horizontal and vertical struts. Size 3mx3m. Tatami mats (each weighing approx. 35kg) are to be placed on top, as they need some air underneath due to mold growth. 1-2 tables and possibly people sitting or sleeping on the mats (no jumping or similar).

My idea now was to get wooden slats from (27 pieces of approx. 1m or 1m - slat width for the connecting pieces) and build them up like a tic-tac-toe field and glue them together with wood glue or nail the outer pieces.

Does that sound sensible? Are there any quicker/better ideas? Unfortunately don't have a car, so 1m would be the max length of slats I can carry. I had also thought about furniture pallets, but they seem to be much more expensive.
>I want to build a kind of lattice frame with horizontal and vertical struts. Size 3mx3m. Tatami mats (each weighing approx. 35kg) are to be placed on top...My idea now was to get wooden slats from (27 pieces of approx. 1m or 1m - slat width for the connecting pieces) and build them up like a tic-tac-toe field

People say a picture is worth a thousand words. OP, here's a challenge. Post about 800 more words, or, post a drawing. Your choice.
> My idea now was to get wooden slats from (27 pieces of approx. 1m or 1m - slat width for the connecting pieces) and build them up like a tic-tac-toe field and glue them together with wood glue or nail the outer pieces.

That is about the worst way to do it. Get 3 beams of 3m long and 9 of 1m, then toe nail (or screw) and glue the short ones between the long ones. Are you sure the tatamis are rigid enough to not sag into the 1x1 space below them?

Better yet would be 9x 3m beam with half lap joints glued at the intersections but that’s a lot more work
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Thanks. It's literally tic tac toe, tho (ignore the minor dimensional errors)
Thanks for pointing out the mats potentially sagging through.Might be better to add more beams.

Can't really go beyond 1m length as I don't have a car and carrying around 3m poles is not an option.

Half-lap joints look nice but seems way too much work.
> horizontal and vertical struts.
>Size 3mx3m.

"Horizontal" is two dimensions, width and depth front to back

"Vertical" is one dimension, in this context height above the floor.

That's three dimensions.

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Samsung says the cells are 3.6 volts right on the fucking cells if you open up the pack.
Dewalt is either fraudulent, can’t add, or both.
It’s even worse for that stupid 20/60 battery.
Dewalt gets each cell for about $1.25 USD. That’s a hell of a mark-up.
Well, they’re no better than the cheapest of cheap chinese crap. Same origins.

No, mattias wandal (woodgears) on youtube already busted the fact that dewalt, by design, drains one battery out of the whole pack thus ruining the whole pack.
Since they already know what’s wrong with it when returned, they can replace the single cell and sell the other four as new, decreasing their total cell cost for new packs from $6.25 to $1.25 (for a 5 cell pack).

Everything they do is just bullshit to confuse stupid buyers of battery operated toys…. The cells don’t lie.
Remember that “red lithium” scam? Lol, you had guys tearing down the packs and they’re like “these are green, not red”
They’re just plain-ol mass produced widely available cells found everywhere. They're not special in any way regardless of what kind of frauds marketing perpetrates, whether they put them in series, or in parallel, lie about the voltage, etc.

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Is this a good deal?
That doesn’t look bad.

My 2¢- that’s the older brushed angle grinder, it’s not one of their higher end models. It’s still a DeWalt so I’m sure it’s fine.

That super stubby impact driver and 5.0 battery is $149. But I have also seen the last gen brushless impact driver plus a smaller battery for $99, and the Atomic hammer drill + impact driver kit and 2x small batteries for $149-$199 a lot.

That 5.0Ah battery will be great on the angle grinder, but quite large on the impact driver, especially if you’re not running 3” screws all day long. It will work fine, but messes with my OCD.
So I'm basically paying $80 for the angle grinder, which I just found for $100 on its own.
Not really that great; might as well just get the stubby on its own.
I got scammed by the g*mans on a cordless drill so I don't really need the hammer drill + impact driver kit.
Like I said, it’s not bad. I’m sure the angle grinder is straight, but certain people are really picky on grinder switch style and power and that one isn’t the latest and greatest XR model or anything.

Would a small 1hp lathe be able to drill a 12mm and 20cm of depth in 4140 steel? assuming the proper drill bit and speed is used?

If not what's the minimum hp needed?
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please buy a real lathe I have one of these and it's worthless for steel
12mm (.4724") x 20cm (7.874") deep in 4140 steel. The hp is probably going to be okay, but I would be worried about the rigidity of the lathe and the tailstock travel. You're going to have to drill halfway and then flip it around and drill the other half if it's a through hole. Also what is the diameter of the 4140? Will you be able to chuck it in the lathe?
Anon is making 45acp barrels on the lathe again
there are literally calculators for this, but for anon's sake the hp needed is diameter times length (220mm convert to inch is 8.25 in) and then divide by pi. similar to the surface speeds/rpm calculation you can substitute pi for 4. your calculating the area of metal to be removed and converting to the area of hp needed inside the motor. 4140 vs 1018 vs o1 tool steel only affects rpm/feed rate.
then 8.25/4 is a bit above 2hp needed.
These machines work like a dremel zero torque but crazy fast rpm to remove material

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As in title.

>Be me, autist pepe living in Asia
>International shipping is "HOLY SHIT" expensive
>Want to cast really cool shit in metal (maybe Britannia Pewter or possibly Bi58Sn42 or hell maybe even just rose's metal or some lead-toxic gay shit like that)
>Have a resin 3d printer, want to pour high-heat silicon molds around my print, or maybe high-end plaster?
>Then want to vacuum cast metal into it using DIY vacuum table

But like... a burnout furnace costs $800 minimum??? And they're TINY! Like 6" tiny. Wtf am I supposed to cast in something that's supposed to be smaller than a mold that's supposed to be smaller than a perforated steel flask that's supposed to be smaller than 6 inches?

Nigger nickel balls!

A vacuum cast setup starts at $1200 (lol. LMAO even. Built my own for $120, including the vacuum pump)

An electric furnace costs $200 but I just stomach that, whatever. I don't want to ghetto-rig a microwave kiln in my yuppie apartment.

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>How the nigger nickle balls do I do this for under $2000 USD
steal everything.
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Burned a full gallon of used oil today. I'm officially 1/6th of the way through my stash of soda cans. I'm so fucking happy bros.

It sounds like you're keen on getting into metal casting without breaking the bank, which is definitely doable with some DIY ingenuity. Here are some thoughts and steps you might consider:

Mold Material: Using silicone for your molds is a good choice because it's heat-resistant and can be vacuum casted into. You can also consider other materials like high-temperature plaster (investment), but that might require more specific handling.

Vacuum Casting: You're on the right track with making your own vacuum casting setup. This can be achieved relatively affordably using a vacuum pump and a chamber. This will help remove air bubbles from your molten metal, resulting in cleaner casts.

Burnout Kiln vs. Electric Furnace: The burnout kiln is typically used for preparing investment molds by burning out the wax or resin. However, if you're using silicone molds, you can skip this step. An electric furnace will be essential for melting your metal, though.

Metal Melting: Your electric furnace will be key here. Make sure it can reach temperatures suitable for the metal you intend to use. You can start with lower melting point metals like tin-based alloys if you're concerned about power consumption.

Safety: While cost-cutting is good, safety should not be compromised. Ensure you have proper ventilation for fumes and adequate safety gear (gloves, eye protection) when working with molten metal.

Start Small: Begin with smaller projects to refine your techniques before tackling larger pieces. This will help you learn and minimize potential mishaps.

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mmm dross

why poat ChatGPT answers here? what's the value

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Recently shortened a front driveshaft for my 2000 F-350 with the V10 and manual transmission. Could find front driveshafts for automatic transmissions all day long for sub $200 while the proper one for my manual transmission was anywhere from $600-1000.

So a little bit of choppy choppy, some indicating in, and welding, and I have the right length driveshaft and saved myself some coin.

The reason for the thread is once I cut the end off to shorten the tube I found this rolled up cardboard inside. What is the reasoning for this? Is it supposed to help dampen harmonic resonance or was it in there for some other reason? I have shortened several driveshafts and this is the first time I have ever encountered rolled up cardboard in the tube.

I ended up with about 0.07 thousandths of runout at the end. Had do do some tacking, then indicating, cut a tack, tap it in, re-indicate, etc. for a bit to get er all nice and true, but it runs smooth as silk at 70 down the highway now, whereas before it was bad at 20mph. The old center ball on the double cardan was completely wallered out and even the splines on the slip yoke were getting worn and sloppy.
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>/diy/ on MY anime forum? NO THANKS. next you'll be making custom driveshafts from square stock.
How dare I...

Honeat question, why not just fashion one out of cherry ot walnut using a lathe?
Do this and post it on You don't know shit about welding.
unroll and read the message
maybe VCI paper

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Is there any logical reason the retards who formerly owned my house would bury 2 foot square slabs of concrete a few inches below the turf in my backyard? Two are right off the already established pathway, side by side to each other, and nearby the foundation they poured to extend the shed (which I want to jackhammer, because I want more lawn)

The only thing I can think of is that they really didn't know how to mark conduit lines, or they were prepping to be really lazy in making more flagstone pathways. I had no idea it was there until the rain uncovered it a few days ago. The slabs are enormous, about 3 inches thick.
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that's it, I'm gettin me mallet!
I rather deal with the Feds then the Poltergeists actually...but the most likely reason for the concrete slab is that someone doesn't want to mow the lawn, wants extra space to park a car, and then found out there are regulations against replacing lawn with non-lawn that can't absorb rain and therefore increase storm water run off which could lead to flooding.
shit was so cheap back when our countries had industry aand didnt bend over backwards to raise up forign countries.

>yeah im just gonna pour all these materials here. how much were they? lol it was free, i know a guy who knows a guy and this is the extra from when they did the thing

fucking hate listening to the old timers brag about this shit. WOW THANKS FOR EXCHANGING OUR ECONOMY SO WE CAN BUY PLASTIC SHIT FROM WALLMART. and the worst thing is they go their whole lives not knowing what they did

my grandpa wanted to build a little fence in his backyard, sure i said. lets go buy materials. old man almost had a heart attack when he saw the cost of those cheap pre-made bamoo fences.

>b...but these use to be 10 cents a piece :(

yeah well i guess you shouldnt have fallen asleep at the wheel, they are 50$ a bundle now.
>old man almost had a heart attack

Gummers don't understand inflation calculators. I fucking love them to deflate people obsessed by numbers not their meaning.
Mark your utility lines. Call them, it is usually free to get all the underground lines marked.

They're probably footings for something like a porch. Possibly never used.

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