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Anyone else do their own HVAC and refrigeration work? Working on this 1960's Westinghouse dehumidifier right now. Changed oil, switched to r12a, added a filter/drier, but seems that the capillary tube is partially blocked. Head pressure soars and thermal overload trips. Once that is replaced should be good for another 60 years of service.
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I alwaysbjust wanted a normal life and a house
i've got this mini fridge i want to steal a compressor out of, but i don't know what to do about the refrigerant.
i have a vacuum pump but i don't have a manifold, nor do i have anywhere to put refrigerant.
i thought about just using some sidecutters and putting a hole in one of the copper lines, and just venting it to the atmosphere, but that feels unethical.
but, people just throw these fridges away. and, in a dump, eventually it's going to break down and vent the refrigerant into the atmosphere.
so, i don't know.
Smallest I could buy was 12kg. Air duster used to be pure r134a until around 2014 but that was before I had a car.

Glad I did buy it because prices have almost tripled since.
if its got propane or one of the other "new" hydrocarbon refrigerants your supposed to vent it anyway, and if its any other just blow it anyway its all going to end up in the atmosphere anyway one hose would probably hold half the charge.
Hey all you technicians out there
What's the best way to get into an HVAC position? I'm working on my EPA 608 universal on skillcat, and I'm familiar with cooling systems, still working on understanding gas furnaces. What else should I be doing?

>trade jobs are saf-
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>Buy brick laying machine for $12,000
>It breaks down after a couple of months of running hard in 100+ degree weather
>Have to ship it off to get fixed
>Down a brick layer for that time
>Finally get it back after paying $3,000 for the repairs
>Give Jose a call
>Tell him I'll pay him and his 4 young adult sons $10 an hour to lay my bricks
>Just as efficient as the robot
>Much cheaper than the robot
>Unlike the robot, if they die then I can easily replace them
Writings on the wall, automation will happen. Thankfully they’re at such an abysmally pathetic starting point with so many hurdles to overcome it’s unlikely that you would see anything viable, let alone cost effective, for decades.
At best automation of most trades is something to worry about for people like 50-100 years from now. Sucks if you were really desperate to see your great grandchildren take over the family business, I guess. They’ll probably be too focused on the water wars to care though
5 people, $10 an hour, 40 hour weeks, 8 weeks
5 x 10 x 40 x 8 = $16,000
machine, repairs
$12,000 + $3,000 = $15,000
so it's actually a bit more expensive to hire Jose in your hypothetical, plus at the end of the machine scenario, you still have the $12,000 machine
they do that right now, they just import immigrants. this is why white collar workers saying immigrants welcome made blue collar workers hate them.
>Go on reddit Carpentry sub for some reason. >Stumble into thread about illegal immigrant labor.
> Faggots saying that their is still a huge labor shortage and housing backlog and its good for the economy.
> While dipshit makes $14 an hour to nail stick frame houses together in the heat while listening to the unending drone of tejano.

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If I were to make a product for a local general store should I just sell it to them or have them sell it on consignment?
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Lol it's a southern thing. Crawfish are stupid good fish bait so you rake them out of ditches of standing water with wire baskets on the end of a pole
>mass produced
Pick one
“I fear not the man who has practiced 10,000 kicks once, but I fear the man who has practiced one kick 10,000 times.” - Bruce
You’re a fucking retard. A man that practices a kick wrong 10,000 times isn’t dangerous at all. He’s a liability to himself because kicks, by definition, leave you standing on one leg. If you’ve had improper instruction, you’re learning a habit that will get you out in a coma when you try it on pavement in an urban setting.

The shitty materials and practices used in mass production are the non existent proper martial arts techniques in your little false equivalency.

In addition to being a martial artist, I also make concrete planters from GFRC. I hand paint them too. Which planters do you think last longer? Mine, or the shitty Portland cement impregnated fiberglass fabric “fibercrete” that are currently inundating the market place? People with brains and money pay the premium for my shit and there’s a reason. It’s really bizarre that you associate current sweat shop products with model T’s rolling off the assembly line 100 years ago as if they’re even remotely similar.
Muratic acid

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Two volumes with Pictorials of trades and Industry from french enlightenment era

we dot tl/t-wssYljZX7p
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it contains drawings with short description
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v cool op

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Ideas for projects with used lighters?

I don't have that many, I have maybe a coffee can full
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I had an old CO2 pistol that wasn't shooting accurately anymore, so I started putting a flint or two in and shoot a bb out with it.
Very fun to shoot at a metal barrel, makes sparks like something out of a low budget scifi shie from the 60s.
Put into the cylinder, pour in epoxy. Then lathe into vase or other crap. Film all process and put on Facebook for a profit.
Fill w epoxy and chuck it in the lathe
Hone your shtf skills.
Buy a camping gas tank (or multiple, why the fuck not), a pressure regulator and a few adapters, along with a big box of flints.
Refill and trade them.
The next civil war will come soon, better be prepared.
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/diy/ edition
Feels good when stuff runs right.
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If it truly just needs a carb, that's a good deal. They're like $20 on Amazon.
They look like they'll do the job.
I've got a 2004 cub cadet. Rear tires are dry rotted and needs replacing. It's got a single bolt threaded into axle holding wheels on. I've removed the bolt but the tires will not come off, tried everything. The bolt is out and I ran it all summer hoping the wheels would fall off but hasn't. Any body know the secret?
>Could also look into old trenchers with worn out stingers.

Now I've been looking at a Davis 40+4 trencher for sale locally... She needs some work but has a Deutz Diesel engine. I don't need any more projects, but it's just sitting there needing some love.
>ching chong ping pong
heat and cold water+ air hammer
check taryl fixes all on juutuub

can i season pan with motor oil
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No, you must only use the finest animal fats.
Canola oil will work. But really you should just be using bacon grease.
You got to get the super special transformer oil, resourcfull african chefs swear by it
Not op but yeah I do
this belongs in the stupid question thread

Hello anons. I am trying to make a wood gasifer. I need suggestions for a container that is steel, completely airtight after closing, can withstand fire, and is around the size of a five gallon bucket. I have tried a 5 and 55 gallon barrel and the lids leak smoke like a sieve. I was thinking about a pressure canner, but they are made from aluminum. Any suggestions?
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op can't figure out a barrel lid band clamp and obviously doesn't own a welder or know jack shit about metalwork. building a non-toy retort is way out of his wheelhouse
He's going to have to learn eventually. Normally questions like that are from the very young but they deserve a useful answer so they can learn a little. I don't expect OP to actually build one but the mental exercise is useful and the subject worthy of study. It's a good way to learn and he may use the knowledge later.

I encourage OP to learn all aspects of gasifiers and their historic use. Some farmers etc in the US still run them on their older pickup trucks. If you have the right vehicle (or if you have a BEV and a gas powered genset) running a gasifier with say an IMPCO-style control could be quite handy.
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searched for "band resealable 55 gal metal drum"
took less than one minute to find pic related.
>>making charcoal
>Anon what are you actually trying to do here those two are technically incompatible unless it's some sort of retort that collects off the wood gas but that doesn't sound like what you're doing.
>generally charcoal barrel systems just get closed off with mud

Pretty sure any wood that you "gassify" cooks all the wood gas out of it and you end up with charcoal as a byproduct. So they are not incompatible with each other.

OP get yourself some cheap out of hydro propane tanks and pull the valves. Let them air out for a week or so and then cut them apart and weld a flange to them to bolt them together or Make one half slip fit onto the other half with a smaller ring welded inside one half of the tank if you want a faster re-load. Of course a barrel lid type rim clamp would also work on the flange if you can figure out a way to implement one. The propane tanks are much heavier than a barrel and would last a lot longer in the heat.
This video outlines what you need and how to put it together.

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Phew, alrighty! Time to re-caulk the shower in the master bath! Been meaning to do this since we bought the place in summer of '22.

I'm all prepped, got my caulk removal tool, wd-40, prepared to let the shower get bone-dry for a few days (even got a big dehumidifier i'll stick in there to make extra sure).

I know it's gonna be a pain but the caulk is nasty, let's not put this off any longer.
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i use this to see how hard im tripping. when i go to take a phantom shit i slow down enough to see how much the dirt in the shower is moving
technically the right way is to slam a new joist piece in line and then sister a board long enough to run like 80% of the add's length on both the existing and scab. but fuck, if the previous guy got away with this, then maybe that shit just don't matter anymore.
you're seeing video from my crawlspace. it's mostly a crouch-space, but to get under the master bedroom portion you actually have to army-crawl through some tight spots.

however, there is a little reach-through access hatch in the garage for turning off the house water supply, which i used to pass through the lights you see in the video. I may expand it into an actual door for getting the materials for this repair in (and so i can skip the army-crawl points).

you can see the foundation blocking layout in the plans and it doesn't exactly match what's really down there, so fuck if i know. The house is from 1998 and was built from plans out of Southern Living magazine.
I just ripped off my glass shower door today and it smelled like sewage and old jizz. It’s a panel shower and I’d like to tile it. After installing concrete board, How hard is it to waterproof a shower and build a new pan. Should I just use the Schluter system?
I like the flofx bonding flange and hydroban. Bonding flanges save steps in the pan making process and flofx has some specific flexibility advantages over your schluter and laticrete flanges.

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i want to use the grounding pin of an outlet to keep myself grounded. does anyone know if this is safe to do? my biggest worry is that a power surge will go through that pin and shock me
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>Why do you think you need to be grounded?
Mom caught him looking at Dad's dirty magazines.
>loose neutral wires are remarkably common
Shit. I am already afraid of PEN breakage. My electricity comes from a pole. I don't think my house has a ground rod but I always discharge electrostatic buildup a lot on any grounded metal device, maybe it does? Or does that mean absolutely nothing?
>If your house is one of those with a loose or broken neutral, your ground will be hot.
The houses in this street as well as mine are from the 70s and most were never really renovated so all of them are TNCS or even TNC which was the standard back in those days. I guess I could add a ground rod in the yard but then if the entire street loses PEN I'll be the sole ground of the street and probably end up getting set on fire. I can see why TT is now recommended here.
Yes but they rarely do that, at least from what I've heard. It's fine as far as I am concerned, long as it is TN. TT is for faggots who want to sell their soul to GFCI manufacturers.
You ain't me, faggot.
>i want to use the grounding pin of an outlet to keep myself grounded.

Great bait since not even 4chan is that stupid.
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>Great bait

shut up, dumb nigger.
millions of electronics workers do this all day.

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For the past few days water has been dripping in the bowl but i can't figure out how to access the tank without tearing the entire apart, it's glued to the floor and the only peek inside is the hole on top where the button is screwed, how screwed i am?
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Cheap glaze, stains more easily. Lesser quality mechanisms. Also Home Depot landlord special toilets are second picks at the factory, so they don't always line up right. I've installed two so far, and both had to be shimmed at the tank and at the base. Pay a little extra for a brand name at a plumber's supply and you will not have this problem.
>same mechanism
It's a regular toilet, with a dual flush valve. It arguably looks better than a $100 toilet. This model is an elongated, which many people find more comfortable to sit on. It can also adapt to 10" and 14" flanges - that is not standard, but some bathrooms are like that, and getting a toilet that accommodates the existing opening is less work than moving a toilet flange.
>telekom router
Everybody will say they're a a bitch to work opn and install, but I plan to install in wall toilet this year I like the looks.
also trips checked
/diy/ is Serbia. Literally only American boomers and some Serbs on this board. No exception.
I was hoping I would never be reminded of ADSL again but your stupid toilet just had to.
>in wall toilet
I had a different issue with mine. They put the hot water valve for that whole bathroom next to the tank, shut the valve and then put tiles over it all. So we get around to mounting the sink maybe 1 year later and find out the hot water is shut off. The toilet itself just works.
Consider creative ways to make it easy to maintain like an attractive access panel on the opposite side of the wall the toilet backs up to.

I would ensure it's very well supported. I welded a strong sink mounts from cheap flat bar for my landlord after his other tenant broke theirs by fucking on it.
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Have you checked your accordion syphon this month anon?
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Brown hands did this work.
Is them safe from Muratic acid
>this is the shit that passes for plumbing work nowadays
>people pay money for this kind of work
I read recently that as the competence crisis gets worse, the barrier to entry for starting a business will get lower and lower. you don't have to be the best, you don't even have to be good. you just have to show up.
customer satisfaction and retention won't matter anymore. there will always be more repairs to patch over in someone else's house that was "repaired" a few years ago or built by illegal aliens.
>Shitty recycled plastic fails after a few years
>retard millenials dont know shit so they call a plumber
>plumber replaces hose with another even lower quality hose
>repeat for infinite suckers to milk cash from
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Take stuff off the end of the drain until you can get a 45° ell on it with a drain-1-1/2" adapter on the end.
Use a normal trap fitting from the trap to the adapter.

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Does anyone know what this is or what it goes to?
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Thanks anon!
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>found it a casserole I made
If you are to be believed, my guess is that it fell off of the exhaust fan over your stove. Looks like a thumbscrew for holding a fan filter or lamp cover in place. Look up, anon, look up and see the light.
S für spannen H für herausdrehen
look man i don't speak chinese

Use this thread to ask questions you think don't require a thread of their own.

The old thread no longer bumps: >>2751810

If you didn't get a response in the old thread, feel free to ask again here.
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What is filler? I thought steel wool was filler.
>What is filler?
canned foam, plaster, wood putty, whatever you want to embed the steel wool in.
>particularly a heavier gauge of steel wool
best is stainless steel (or copper) pot and pan scrubber
>best is stainless steel (or copper) pot and pan scrubber
Absolutely agree. Never seen a rodent get through that.
>What is filler
In this case plasticised plaster. It sets harder than plain plaster, and it adheres to the gap and the steel wires. You end up with an impenetrable mass that makes sharp edges that hurt the mice if they do try to chew through it.
Not those bois though. You want the rough wirey ones. Unroll it a little bit and you'll find a wire holding it together, cut/snap that and it'll unroll all the way into a metal tube you can bundle up into the gap.

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Reads temp, can use to detect air leaks, hot surfaces, food temp, also is a laser. >$11
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The Klein ones
I have stainless zip ties they're great.
>cheese knife
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>You can trust a cheap digital caliper
No, no you can't.
Easy to read, but know their limits (Even the Mitutoyo are +-0.001)

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