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for leatherwork, you need a very dense material to tool (draw) and stamp on. We all have little granite slabs. I make luggage and messenger bags almost exclusively so that little slab is just top small. 2x3x8 slabs of granite are reterdedly expensive.

here are a few factors I'm considering.

1, my house doesn't have a concrete foundation so reverberation will just always be an issue. I want to get as much force transferred onto what I'm working on as possible.

2, I have read that a work bench the size I'm going to make will weigh 100s of lbs.

3, even the best concrete tables eventually Crack, sometimes within a year.

what are your thoughts
6 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
Pour some concrete and put a big granite bathroom tile over it. If you’re going for big impacts, put a sheet of steel instead. Put it on top of the poured concrete with the fasteners already in so you know exactly where to drill the anchors. Metal fencing panel als rebar, even if it cracks it’ll still be held together by the steel top and rebar

Put something not round in a drill and spin it while holding it against the mould
I've used a sawzall/reciprocating saw with no blade installed to vibrate small concrete formwork.
Naw, it's slaked lime mixed with sand, pressed into brick shape then autoclaved to cure. From what I understand, in the autoclave the sand and lime form calcium silicate hydrates, which is essentially cement. I've read it can still breath, my assumption is that it's between cement and plaster in it's breathability. I've also read it doesn't require sharp sand, which if true, opens additional options for sourcing it's primary ingredient.
>what are your thoughts
You already figured it'll be heavy, so how do plan to move it to it's final destination?
Child abuse

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I decided to under cut my fireplace to install laminate flooring. It turned out okay all things considered.
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Why do you want to make it look like firebrick is bearing on wood?
thats some good meth, nice job!
You win the internet today
Quarter round in any house is shit tier nigger work it's fucking ugly brother
I so agree you’re on point

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My parents have an older house they bought recently that was added onto over the years by prior owners who weren't the most professional. Some hacky stuff was discovered, but up till now the hot water heater had worked fine.

Hot water goes out so they call a contractor, he finds the lower heating element is heavily corroded and says its time for a new tank, parents agree. A few things about the old tank and power setup: It went 2x30Amp circuit breaker -15 feet-> emergency shutoff (see pic) -> tank. While the old tank wasnt heating water it did have voltage running to it. I ran my non contact electrical tester over it and got the beeps. I barely know how to use a multimeter but I managed to find 120/240v on the upper/lower elements. So it had power but wasnt pulling amps.

About the attached pic: No idea what caused it but clearly that black wire on the right overheated and cooked off the insulation. After cutting back the wiring to where good insulation was and attempting to reinstall it I noticed the threads that screw need to go into were stripped or fucked in some way. Re-using that box without replacing the body there is asking for another overheating scenario.

Fast forward and the new tank is installed but it too has voltage but wont pull amps and heat water. I disconnected from that emergency shutoff box and direct wired to the new heater. Still not pulling amps. The breaker hasnt tripped all this time. It's clearly letting voltage through.

I dont know what I need to test here or how to best do it. I have basic hand tools and a multimeter, even if I don't know how to use it to its fullest. Help me /diy/ I dont want my parents to be without hot water over the weekend + however long it takes to find a decent electrician in TN.
37 replies and 7 images omitted. Click here to view.
>So weird that the tank (apparently?) shipped with a defective or incorrect upper element.
Not really, no. Quality assurance is an expensive. Most companies gleefully cut expenses.
What is it about this place that makes everyone turn into a bitter cunt? You guys are nastier than on /pol/. People come here asking for advice and the retards who never actually talk to humans lose their shit and need to call everyone names. Stop being so nasty, the world sucks enough as it is these days.
While he was pretty coarse about it, he wasn't wrong at all. People need to stop fiddling with deadly shit and ending up dead all the time. I know a fair bit more about electricity and how it behaves, and I stay the fuck away from tinkering with mains voltage. Sometimes it takes a firm hand to get a dumbass away from a horrible fate. Would you prefer he let you win a Darwin award?
>diy board hostile to people looking to learn diy
Yeah. No issues to see here. The world just continues to get shittier. Why should anyone care.
Alright, enjoy learning the effects of mixing water and sketchy wiring on your own. Then there will be nobody to complain about people telling you not to fuck with it. The world will get smarter, and there will be less bitching about muh fee fees.

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Okay, I need someone familiar with electricity to explain something to me.

I went into a room with old lighting with lighting fixtures, that was like 20 years old at least. The light bulbs were those long fluorescent lightbulbs a few feet long and 80w.

I turned off lights in a room, but I noticed one bulb was glowing red faintly on both ends in the dark. I looked at it, and it was for sure glowing red. So, I tried to unplug it. It wouldn't unplug, and was stuck, and I tried to force it and felt something snap but then thought what the fuck am I doing? I might electrocute myself doing this and stopped trying to force it to unplug. So, I went to the circuit breaker, and found the circuit the lightbulb was on and turned it off. And then, I went to unplug it, and it easily unplugged. It was weird how it just easily unplugged when it wasn't coming out earlier when it was still on.

Can someone explain to me what happened here? The issue is resolved now because I've removed that thing and have no intentions to ever try to use it.
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The glow at the ends of the bulbs after cutting the power isn't unusual-- they have heater coils/electrodes at each end as you can see in the pic related. Its not unusual to see some glow at the ends after cutting the power.

As for difficulty removing it, it makes no difference in ease of removing a plug from a receptacle whether or not it is electrically live. It's possible that an extremely smooth brain may be the issue here.
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It's due to quantum-electroenergymagnetic induction. When the divine sparks go round and round in an ionic conductor, god imbibes within them lovepull energy which holds the thing in place. Such are the miracles of rabbi yeshua.

Is there such a thing as a flat head socket screw but with the socket at the tip of the screw, leaving the head completely flat? I would be using such a screw to mount the fascia of a model train layout.

Compelling alternatives welcome
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Oh nvm you can buy these for cheap as shit OP just go n eBay
I don't know what they would be called

Could you provide a link?
Seems to me that Opp wants some kind of bolt, but with extra steps?
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just buy these retard
So you want a grub screw, but you want to install it backwards and have a head on the other end? Pretty fuckin weird!

anons im having trouble selecting ideal transistors for use with an RF amplifier design < 100mhz. It seems that the tradeoffs are just too great- you either have low impedance gain or high impedance gain, and you either have low current and low noise but also poor handling, or high current and higher shot noise. rBB is a big part of this and is rarely documented, because it's usually lower than other noise figures. beta is sometimes very high but this isn't necessarily a good thing. have been reading a bunch of documents

pic related, this shit pisses me off
whether it's nexperia, onsemi, nxp, zetex, or infineon, choices for good transistors designed for HF are limited and most offer shit noise figures or require end users to test tons of models to characterize what the mfg didnt think important

trying to design a loop amplifier based on wellbrook and has:
good linearity from 5nv to 500mV, positive gain from 100khz-10mhz(used a LPF 2nH capacitor for this)
consumes under 100mA(ideally under 30mA) of current, powers off 3-5V bias-T power insert
really good, low noise figure

have had some good results with phemt but biasing them while keeping self-oscillation down is hard
a few good jfet exist, but the square law behavior is not desirable

learning transistor behavior has been a giant pain in the ass and it feels like nobody designs transistors anymore for HF
its all crap they designed decades ago

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What does /diy/ think of my 12’ by 12’ deck design?

Any suggestions?

The joists (in yellow) are 16” apart starting from the top down.
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that's what I thought you were referring to. In my experience wood shrinks depending on the moisture content during assembly, so I'd wonder how much tension there is in 5 or 10 years, or even more. Decks are expected to last a long time when made of treated lumber, and eventually I'd say much of the load is carried in pure shear on the fasteners. Are you a mechanical engineer? Your reasoning is more appropriate for things made of metal.
It means measure from the center of the joist/pole to the center of the next joist/pole.

Knows stuff and is right in practice

Knows stuff in theory, but it’s irrelevant here. Wood cups, bends, swells, expands, twists etc especially outdoor. You have exactly zero control over the friction force between boards joined this way. If you stand on a joist, it should rest on its support, not be attached to it.
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this is how I would frame it.
the skirt is never supposed to be structural, but in this case it helps that weird corner.

all posts should be notched like >>2788947
bolts should be used in all corners to tie the skirt together, and on the legs to tie them to the main beams
everything is 2x12, dont use any less or you will meed a ton more ground posts
oh I should say you can go without posts and just put it directly on the concrete at those specific points. just follow of the rule no more than 2ft from center of post to edge of beam, no more than 4ft center of post to center of post. going higher than 2ft with the posts also needs cross bracing.
you wont really avoid being 2.5ft off the ground with this design but that shouldnt be a problem unless you live in a trailer house or something
Where is the shed?

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>still trying to make something out of my land

Feels comfy bros
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this is the best idea here
just make it a beehive shed , they exist
they are perfect for the climate
just put more bee boxes in the shed fill it up
i agree you can easily make another cuck shed
also bee sheds are not permitted
guy comes just open it

honestly its a great money making venture
You can make a good bit of money off honey and mead. but you have to ask yourself if it's worth living with bees all the time. I've worked in fruit fields that were totally infested with them before. They generally dont bother you if you dont bother them, but you will get stung sooner or later. Might not be that bad if you have enough land that you can give them a wide birth tho
I have 0,42 acres and I'm trying to get the best of it in Spain. AMA
>just use dry leaves
Beware of poison oak and ivy.
>or grass
a fistful of feces
Pine needles work best. Leaves your asshole smelling fresh and clean

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How do I get into the trades in Toronto
3 replies omitted. Click here to view.
That's part of the evening
How many times do bots have to post this shit? This is the 5th one that I’ve seen.
Go look at a fucking archive.
bet it's the same guy that's been spamming about acid
lots of spam this month
>in canada
it was over before it fucking started
Toronto is not Canada. we do not claim them.

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Should I buy a bullshit dilapitated hellhouse to /diy/ into something livible? It is a good way to break into the near impossible housing market? Or is it just a fantasy?

Show me your work /diy/. I've got to know if I'll be able to making it with less than 20k initial investment.
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I bought one of these about 5 years ago. Thought I could DIY it on the weekends. Took my a month to empty the hoard out, some rooms it was to the ceiling. I left the couch which was the only piece of furniture used by the former owner. Through a tarp over it and used it to sit and rest. In one room the trash columns had become structural over time and once removed the bathroom above began falling through breaking a water supply pipe. After turning off the main I grabbed all my tools and tore the tarp off the couch. I took a large smooth shit on that couch and walked away. The town tried contacting me a few months latter when high school kids found the house and started hanging out in it. One night I set it on fire. That was about 2 years ago. I moved in with my brother a state over and changed my number. Have no idea what happens now or what legal responsibilities I have. Thinking about saying I was the victim of a scam. Would do it again, learning lesson and the ending was kino
Where's that house standing for your expenses being all over the place this much?
that roof is making my throat itch!
tar paint?
>Should I buy a bullshit dilapitated hellhouse to /diy/ into something livible?
The answer for the house in your pic is "absolutely not" but something like >>2788359 might be manageable.

>It is a good way to break into the near impossible housing market? Or is it just a fantasy?
Depends; are you a master builder with no commitments, experience in historical construction techniques, in possession of at least $150k to dump into this project and have a place to live for the literal years it will take to rehabilitate it even working full-time?

The difference between un-fucking an ugly but structurally sound 1700sqft post-war crackerbox and a beautiful but a structurally unsound 3500sqft multi-story brick house from the gilded age is night and day and hundreds of thousands of dollars. Anyone can rip up floors and scrape popcorn ceilings and most people can even manage to rennovate a bathroom or kitchen or install windows if they hire a plumber to put the pipes where they want them but have you ever repaired a brick foundation or built a mansard roof or installed a lath and plaster wall or dealt with knob and tube wiring? Moreover, if you want to keep the historical character of the house (which is the ONLY reason to even think about something like this) then that's a whole other layer of skill and expense and considerably more so if you're paying others for the fabrication and only handling the installation. Replacing and trimming out the front door with something appropriate to the house will probably cost $4000+ all by itself, to say nothing of period-appropriate hardware for lights/faucets/cabinets/etc., custom stairs, and things of that ilk. You'll enter the rotting library, see a redwood Versailles parquet floor and built-in English Oak bookshelves and then cry when you realize that restoring that one room alone would put you over budget
>the trash columns had become structural over time and once removed the bathroom above began falling through breaking a water supply pipe
Thats amazing and a nightmare
Where was it and how much did you spend if you dont mind?
Was always a dream of mine to buy one of those old detroit crackhouses and rebuild it but ive since come to my senses and bought a decent, well looked after little 1970s home and its still kind of a neverending expense and repair job to keep liveable

Why did no one tell me about them? They are the best for getting marks off a wall
7 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
Spit n Elbow Grease entered the chat
Maybe besides the point, but isopropylic alcohol AKA propan-2-ol works better than erasers for removing pencil from walls
I only use name brand. Mr. Clean put decades of research plus a touch of magic into those Magic Erasers. I support real Murricans like Mr. Clean and I don’t want to get near no ching chong diaper rash melaria sponges.
>I only use name brand. Mr. Clean

mr clean is a homo gay if there ever was one
Left ear buddy, that’s more man than you could ever handle!

My uncle’s friend once went camping with Mr. Clean and Mr. Brawny and they caught 3 state record trout in one afternoon and had designed a new more absorbent mop before they even pitched the tent.

My shower in a 5 year old UK house has worked for years without issue, for the last 6 months it has been losing significant (50%-75%) water pressure after the first couple of minutes of running.

I've removed the shower unit from the wall so I'm just blasting water straight out of the pipes in the wall and have the same issue, good pressure for a short duration then very weak, so the shower unit is not to blame.

The tap on the sink maintains 100% pressure indefinitely. I have another bathroom and the shower there maintains 100% pressure indefinitely, as do the sink and bath taps, so it isn't a boiler issue.

There are no obvious signs of a leak.

Can anyone provide advice on how to find the problem?
4 replies omitted. Click here to view.
I'll give that a go, cheers. When I get paid I'll grab one with a clamp and one with a brush and try them both

No, I removed the whole shower, it's one of these bar types. It just has two pipes feeding in, one hot one cold from the boiler. So I took the shower off completely and just had two pipes sticking out of the wall, it still had the pressure issue
I should have done the googling part before responding. I have a mixer shower, I took this off entirely
ok you mention a boiler and picture a mixer so assuming this is a hot water fed shower not electric
>I've removed the shower unit from the wall so I'm just blasting water straight out of the pipes in the wall and have the same issue
what part did you remove? you say pipes so assuming you have removed the mixer and have two pipes, a hot and a cold, which one is losing pressure?
dont mention anything at all about the boiler set up, 5 year old house or 5 years since you bought it?
i dont think they put water tanks in new builds but for example an old house with one tank fed shower might lose pressure when the tank drains and its only hot fed.
i can only assume your bath taps (which run properly) are just below the mixer,probably teed off, it would be very unusual to have some obstruction that affects one but not the other
you haven't provided any detail on the shower, boiler, heating system, pipe size, what floor your on (each shower) all could have some input into the issue.
the easiest solution is you have a poorly written post and a faulty mixer, pretty common that tap valve parts close as they heat up.
get a builders bucket, fill it from the bath tap for one minute, empty it, fill it from the shower for one minute, empty it, wait until the shower slows, fill it for one minute.
you should have 3 volumes of water in litres report back with a picture of the area where your boiler is
>constant-temperature mixer
I just got back from England and all the showers I saw looked like OP pic and do have integral thermostatic mixing valves. Temp control on the right and volume control on the left. It's amazing. Somehow this is considered an unnecessary luxury in the US despite likely costing just a few pennies more to make.

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I'm having a hard time finding information on cement roof sheathing.
Is this just not done in the US?
I'm trying to sheath my roof with cement boards, and then put a metal roof over that using adhesive. Cant find shit for information.
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Well you're gonna insulate your roof, right? RIGHT???
why not pour the roof out of concrete?
1/2" osb and metal roof on top of that. no adhesive use metal roofing screws.
>its an a-frame house
These memes still get build somewhere? I assume you're some canuk or norsefag, in which case i don't get why you're skipping actual insulation like in >>2787718.
i have unlimited firewood and enjoy making fire in a wood stove.
if I need insulation, I will just cram it between the rafters and put in interior walls, but I dont need it,
I more or less want added protection from wildfires. I was going to redo the walls too with the cement for walls people do
my thought is a concrete roof is viable since the roof is so slanted, that the weight isnt a concern. the metal is because I am afraid it may eventually crack and leaked.

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Hi /diy
With a fella at my astronomy club, we're interested in the making of a binoscope.
(pic related: it's 2 telescope side by side)
There seem to be awesome realizations on the internet, but close to no diagram or advice.
This is a 3 stage project:
1- we'd like to try it out with 2 newtonian telescope (skywatcher 200/1000) since we have the same model.
2- make a small frame that would use these mirrors (2x200) since we're not experienced in the telescope making business
3- scale it up to 2x300 or 350mm.

My biggest concern is finding good secondary mirrors, since they'll need to be bigger because lower on the light path.

Any diyer experienced in the field?
good ressources we've found so far


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I had to push wads of grease 75' deep twice yesterday to clear apartment sink drains. Pulling the snake back out was extremely slow and took me pulling as hard as I could for an hour and a half straight both times. I'm a pretty big strong guy, have great grip strength in particular, but I woke up and can't even make a fist with one hand without my joints almost locking in place with pretty startling pain. My shoulders are also fried. If I had to do the same thing today I'd have to flat out refuse. What am I doing wrong? That was the most strenuous thing I ever had to do for work and I've done some rough shit in the past.
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>running in reverse
That thing is not a screw, you run it in reverse if and when it binds. In most cases, it goes forward whether you are pushing or pulling.
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I talked to a plumber and he had these. Gloves that came with the tool just got slick with grease. That was my issue kek.

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