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File: jacket.png (2.33 MB, 681x1597)
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Hey guys looking for some guidance. I've had this vintage UC Berkeley leather and wool varsity jacket for a long time but it needs a bit of care.
Mainly the leather on both cuffs is frayed at the ends which is annoying on my wrists, and the elasticated cuffs are kind of frayed and done.
Also as a bonus, the synthetic lining is pretty old and stained and a bit torn, and I've always liked the idea of replacing it with like silk, cotton or cupro.
Is this stuff just way out of the wheelhouse of someone that hasn't really done any fabric work beyond hemming pants? My girlfriend has lots of sewing stuff and a basic machine but I've never done anything advanced myself. Guessing I'd just put like soft leather patches over the cuff holes and then try to find custom cuff fabric for replacement. But guessing this might be kind of advanced due to leather stitching etc
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>>3005220
Get a shitty Chinese made jacket from Goodwill that is similar. Rebuild it. When you fuck that up you will learn something. Rebuild it again. Keep doing that until you stop learning. Then you will be ready for your vintage jacket.

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hello all, recently bought a farm with this steel building id like to turn into a shop, the previous owners somehow installed this loose celulose insulation all over the inside of the building but its all falling down and gets on everything. any way to remove this that wont take a year or give me cancer? local hillbillies suggested lighting it on fire. scraping it takes forever
17 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
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>>3003995
The pressure washer would probably work decently well. Might be a sloppy mess though. Could get one of those long pressure washer wands and some extra extensions and maybe get the bulk of it from the ground.
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>>3004111
Potentially retarded idea: arches of corrugated plastic? Make like a quonset inside the quonset?
>>
You should ask ai, also get it tested for asbestos dumb fucks put that shit into everything to make it fire retarded
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>>3004359
>You should ask ai
Can I ask it to go fuck itself?
>>
>>3004362
It wouldn't like that because it's rude

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This is my fathers grill , i took a picture of this today after he planned a get together with the surprise of it being in this condition since he neglected it.

His birthday is coming up on october i would like to gift this to him.
1 reply and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
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have you tried cleaning it?
>>
Grill looks fine if someone would clean the grates and put them back where they're supposed to be. If the grates, heat spreaders, or burners are fucked up get replacements online. Unless the chassis of the grill is rusted through just spruce it up for him if you want to do something nice.

The smoker looks fine too, just unused. Maybe replace the firebox tray and clean up the rust with a wire wheel and high-temp paint. If you really need to buy something get him some grill covers to take the abuse from sitting outside.
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you going to plow his wife next?
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>>3005092
Go ask on /ck/ anon. These diy guys are always locked in a shop and eat spam out of the can with their fingers. They are basically cavemen.
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>>3005173
Marty was acting like a pissy bitch in that scene. Embarrassing.

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You know how your modern vacuum cleaner, after 2 hours of work, runs out of battery and clogs up with hair so you have to do additional 2 hours of cleaning on the vacuum itself? I've been exploring the alternatives to cleaning the dust off my floor properly, and have been wondering what would be the best thing to get, so I got on 4chan to see what people think.

I've watched an episode of How To with John Wilson, and heard about something called a Hoover Constellation vacuum cleaner, which practically floats and cleans very effectively. It's one of those old American products that worked much better that are now replaced by cheap Chinese shit.

On the other hand, I could just get a decent broom and simply clean with that, going with the traditional approach rather than modern "efficiency" that compromises proper cleaning. I don't mind doing the manual work, I care more about the authentic, genuine quality of the work itself. So I wondered, does 4chan know of any hidden gems, secrets, or great hidden history behind cleaning dust, that may make this choice easier?
10 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
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>>3003598
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mop#Cloth_mop
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>>3003599
I'll be damned.
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>>3003329
That constellation vac looks heavy, and heavy + dirt scratches floors. Get the rubbermaid hygen or other commercial flat mop, a ten pack of mop heads for it, and just wash them with your laundry. You'll want a very dilute mild neutral soap, even just a few drops of dawn dish soap in a spray bottle of water, and mist a dry pad to sweep with or wet down the floor with the spray to clean it.
>>
My parents have a Rainbow vacuum. The dirt container is filled with water to catch all the dust.
It's so effective that the air filters are still clean after 10+ years.
>>
>>3003329
dyson wand types and clones are low capacity but they normally have some mechanism to empty the large debris which is 90% of the clog. if you need 2h to vac your floor though you should switch to some corded one, the wand types are just unsuitable for that much surface.

>>3003366
do understand that air purifiers reduces the volume of dust, but the dust will still settle in the same amount of area, it can't completely eliminate dust so you still need to manually dust or wipe everything above the floor.

I'm putting a mini split in at my house. I'm good with everything DIY except the electrical stuff. It needs it's own dedicated circuit. Where do I even begin? It's actually quite close to the panel and I think it would be easy for someone who knew what he was doing. Which I definitely don't. The problem is it is impossible to get an electrician where I live this time of year and I need to wrap this project up.

Where or how do I start? I can provide specs and additional info if anyone is interested.
17 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
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30 amp breaker, 14 guage wire. "dead" unused wires at fixtures that draw make heat using resistance. red flags.
you will be adding another layer of handy-andy hackery on top of your existing underspecced hacked together shit

14 guage is rated for 15 amps. thats all.
its not that this is overly complicated, but
you are well into the "if you have to ask..." territory.

red flags all over.
additionally, if you rent, not own, it's HIGHLY UNLIKELY its legal for you to do this without a license. You are legally allowed to burn your own house to the ground in most of America, but when it comes to someone else's house that someone else is going to occupy after you, for very good reason your standard average renter is not allowed to play.

if you own this and are renting out to others, use the income you are making from them to do this right and keep your house insurable. you dont know what you dont know, what you describe existing does not sound at all like it's properly installed
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>>3003963

By dead I mean nothing registers with the breaker on and the wall switch on when I test the wire with a pen style voltage tester. Haven't done it with a multimeter yet.

I own it and won't be renting to anyone else. I have no problem with taking the time and effort to do it right.
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>>3003733
>This is the mini split:
>https://www.homedepot.com/p/MRCOOL-DIY-5th-Gen-12000-BTU-23-5-SEER2-1-Ton-Mini-Split-Heat-Pump-Complete-System-25-ft-Pre-Charged-Line-Set-115-Volt-R454B-DIY-12-HP-WM-115D25-O-CMB/335524254
That's the same unit I installed to replace this unit after an addition was built onto my prior home and that necessitated a re-installation above the roof line.

>>3003738
>All of these heaters, and only these heaters, are on a 30a circuit. The breaker for which is double size but has a regular single size switch.
That's 30A 2-pole (240v) breaker.
Each terminal on that breaker is only 15 amps each (which is reflected by the 14awg wire already in the walls).
Your mini-split needs to be on a dedicated 20 amp breaker. And you need the service disconnect box mounted outside next to the unit. And you're going to have to run new 12awg or 10awg wire out to it.
>>
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>>3004415
This was where the replacement unit had to be installed after the addition went in. The service disconnect box is almost impossible to see in this photo, but it's below the unit.
I had the luxury of the (previously) detached garage having it's own sub-panel. So rewiring the garage and the apartment above it was easy to do.
I later had an HVAC contractor come out to shorten the refrigerant lines and then recharge the unit.
The mini-split you have chosen cannot provide heat when exterior temperatures below 30F. So you will need a supplemental heater of some kind. I just have a free-standing oil heater for that purpose in winter.
>>
>>3004416

Is that 30° statement from your experience? I've seen various numbers including normal operation down to 19° or to 4°, either way with decreased performance below that state temperature.

File: Pic 1.jpg (193 KB, 1600x1129)
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How difficult and time consuming is it to master airbrushing miniature models?
37 replies and 6 images omitted. Click here to view.
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>>3005106
>I'm not sure I really believe you here, anon
What I found is that airbrushes is a highly subjective field where it is hard to give recommendations actually. I even earned tow Evolutions. First one I sold. Second one still flies around in a drawer. my gold standard still is the Badger 100 GXF but I can't find spare parts for it for a price I am willing to pay. Yeah, I do prefer the BD180 to the H&S.
> everything else can be replaced
correct, but at a certain pricepoint. A BD180 replacement needle and nozzle I bought for future use cost me 3 bucks.
>>
>>3005149
>What I found is that airbrushes is a highly subjective field where it is hard to give recommendations actually
Not at all. It's a very exact field. There's a reason why Eclipse and Evolution are nearly universally recommended as top picks.
>A BD180 replacement needle and nozzle I bought for future use cost me 3 bucks
Not really. BD180 needle + nozzle costs usually around $12 minimum. HS needle is usually around $17. It's pricier, yes, but it's the only thing you might need to replace (+o-rings).
>>
>>3005152
>There's a reason why Eclipse and Evolution are nearly universally recommended as top picks.
Because people want to sell you something. And the people who recommend are very often bought as well (influencers and authors on forums). And you are buying. Also who the fuck cares what is "universally recommended"? I have to use it at the end of the day. And if I find out through trial and error that I get better results with one than another, how is that up for debate?
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>>3005162
The reason why Eclipse and Evolution are universally considered amongst the best picks you can get is because of the atomization quality, build quality, machining/tolerances, ease of use, ease & quickness of cleaning, and more. All these things are pretty easily measurable, often literally, too. All that, compared to their price/performance ratio, is what makes them objectively great choices, especially for a tool that, with a little bit of care, will outlast you.

I'm not saying 180 is a bad airbrush. It's fine, and as far as cheap chinkshit goes, it's a straight-up enigma with how much of a bang for buck it provides. It is, however, a fair bit worse in every metric compared to Evolution (or Eclipse). The simple process of disassembly and cleaning is day and night, the material quality (the fact you felt the need to buy a replacement nozzle is telling), the tolerances, and the QC, too.
Good brushes like Evo or Eclipse are simply a better investment (especially long term). Doubly if you think the (scale model) airbrushing is a hobby for you, and not just some secondary/half-assed activity to other hobby. Which is why I still don't believe your claims. Tbqh, it kinda sounds to me like the usual "everything is from china anyway" and "look, I saved $2, therefore I'm superior" contrarian memery.
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>>3005165
I put my old Evolution in the classifieds now for 50 bucks. Knock yourself out.

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Install of hydrotherapy bathtub.

Not finished, as I need to get a divertor and showerhead as this is a guest bathroom.

Changing to a 36" wide needed more work, and I would have left the closet partition out until after, but I unscrewed it from the floor to push it out 3/4" to gain room.

The Sharkbite connectors sure beat having to sweat solder in tight spots.
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>>3004171
So, you jumped the gun? Counted your chickens before they hatched? Went off half cocked? Put the cart before the horse?

So what you are saying is, you did it wrong to start?
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>>3004180
Just didn't consider all the possible problems before jumping in. I am like that. Tons of projects on the go here, and we've only been here 16 months
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>>3004180
I had no manual for this exact model so had to guess how high to place the rim board to support the rim, had to epoxy and fix the cracks around the flange holes.

The factory is 200 km up the road from me and has some old documents. The tub shell where you are is at a slight angle to give you more room, has two plexiglass grab handles to get in and out, important as my wife has had a hip and knee replacement.

The drain and water supply hookup went smoothly, as I didn't have to redo the water, just add quick connect valves I can reach under the house. I could even reuse the drain and underfloor connections from the old tub as it had a swivel in it to adjust it.

Even cutting out the old floor tiles for the wider profile went easy with an oscillating tool.

The one thing that weirded me was the instructions saying to put a bed of mortar under the tub to help hold the weigh and support it so it doesn't move of creak when its in use. I had to also add some where a drain was in the adjacent wall for the water softener, and water line for it to keep mice out. Good thing I'm doing a wood fired oven outside.

Now I find out they also make tub surrounds, so I'm going through those as they just announced a 20% price increase for the fall.

Ive got this plastic musket I used for LARPing and it fell and broke. Its made of some kind of chinesium plastic with the cross being hollow but the other side not.

I tried fixing it by using two part epoxy and hockey tape but it didnt last long. I need some kind of physical bond other than just chemical I think but I cant fathom what for some reason. Y'all got any ideas?
10 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
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>>3004000
anons were probably hopin you'd use a longer piece of steel than that
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>>3004028
Turns out beneath the white plastic is pure metal, i coulnt drill through it.
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>>3003502
Can't you drill through the parts vertically, install two screws and hold it together with two strips of aluminum?
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>>3004976
Oh yea that would also work uh? See i didnt think about it. though it would probably make it less comfortable to hold since it broke around the handle. Even with hockey tape.
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>>3004000
this is your best bet just do it less retarded>>3004028

Hey friends,

Looking for some input here. I am a white boi but I live in Taiwan with my wife and kid. We have a house and have been renovating it slowly.

The walls are in need of some TLC. About a year ago I started painting one of the empty bedrooms and quickly became pretty overwhelmed when I realized that the walls are fucked. When I say fucked what I mean is that there are three old layers of water based paint with the most recent layer going up about two years ago before the sale. That layer was really poorly applied and flakes off even by looking at it wrong. There are also some spots that have flaked down to raw concrete because of water intrusion and efflorescence however this is minimal.

I just do not know how to go about fixing this and getting a fairly consistent wall surface. Locals suggest grinding down the walls with an angle grinder paint grinding attachment but this seems like a fucking nightmare. I hired some guys to grind my porch which is about 25 sq. ft. and it took them close to ten hours working in a team. I have tried doing spot treatments on flaky areas but wet paint on these walls will invariably lead to flaking on the third layer, making a nice finish impossible. I considered just spraying rather than using a roller but I have observed the drying paint on non-flaking areas create new flaking, which makes spraying a losing strategy. I have also considered just putting some very thin plywood over the original wall but doing this on the entire house is going to be a major pain in the ass and it would look like shit long-term.

I guess the truth is that all of the options kind of suck. What would you do in this situation? Is there a better way to remove the three old layers from concrete?
>>
Taiwan, I remember the mold. I live in the desert now.

You got the classic landlord special paint job, concrete needs to be sealed with paint made for it or a vapor barrier before you put anything on it. I have no idea what they'd call it over there.

Unfortunately, manual removal of the shitty paint is your only option if you want to repaint. If you want to slap paneling over it, a vapor barrier is needed.
>>
scrap/grind everything that is loose and repaint...
what else are you gonna do..

is it moisture ? is the concrete falling apart?
>>
There's no half measures here, you need to strip the old shitty paint with paint stripper, paint scraper, a low grit orbital sander (or just sand paper if you want to give your arm a very good workout), nuke the walls with bleach, put on a thick layer of anti-mold primer, and then put at least 2 coats of interior paint via roller. You're going to want painter's tape, and a lot of paper or magazines to catch all the crap on the floor. The paint particles and stripper will be very smelly and slightly toxic so you'll want at least a 3m mask and some decent ventilation. If you live in an area with high humidity you should make that a factor for your primer and paint, especially if there's a lot of salt in the air. Honestly it shouldn't be too expensive but it is very work intensive, so expect this to take the entire weekend. Watch youtube videos on this.
>>
Yep you're gonna have to take everything out of that room , buy yourself a p99 dust mask a face shield and an angle grinder and a couple of wire wheels , do yourself a favour and get yourself some single use tyvek coveralls too, and buzz the fuck out of the wall until you get everything loose off. Then you will need to clean everything up with a shop vac and then wet mop the floor . Hopefully it's not lead paint, might want to test it. Asian construction standards are dog shit. It's gonna suck but I think this is the only option here.

Then you can apply proper concrete sealer primer and paint
>>
Maybe scrape, clean, then elastomeric paint.

One room in my house gets hot in the evening. That tricks the AC into blowing the rest of the house into a freezer. I want to figure out how to get the room colder. I've just put up blackout curtains (the sun hits that room in the evening), so we'll see soon what effect that has. How to escalate from here?
44 replies and 9 images omitted. Click here to view.
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>>3004417
Huh. Must be a shit house then. The house I grew up in was built in '71 and had original double glazed windows. Aluminum frames, sure, but still better than single glaze.
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>>3004372
Ok, so yesterday the room did stay cooler in the evening. Still a bit stuffier than the rest of the house, but better. Somehow the AC did still run constantly. But rather than run constantly at 75 trying in vain to reach 72, it ran constantly at about 72. That said, there were clouds, so it may have been a fluke. For the time being, it's good info. I will still get into the attic soon (don't know where the way in is) and see if I can adjust shutters and stuff. Because I do think that more air flow would be good regardless.
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>>3004527
>rather than run constantly at 75 trying in vain to reach 72, it ran constantly at about 72
>there were clouds, so it may have been a fluke
I think your condenser fan needs replaced, the condenser coils need cleaned, and you might need a new start/run capacitor.
>>
>>3004527
On subsequent days, where there weren't clouds, I found the temp easily got up to 76 and hung there. I do think that the curtains + static cling + carboard + foil is helping...a little? Yeah, it's iffy.

I am ALSO now using a box fan. I suspect it's helping a little, at least psychologically, but the room is still hotter than other rooms. So basically, I am not out of the woods. AC has been running now for like 4 hours straight.
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>>3004463
I mean I have double layer windows, there's an outside aluminum-framed window and then the inside wood-framed one...

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I’m on the verge of losing my well paid white collar job- I’m on a pip and it’s not going well so I’m likely going to be funemployed soon. Im not sure I want to go back to that kind of work, it’s changing a lot with ai and probably won’t exist in a few years anyway. I make 200k in a hcol area, which means if I want a hustle to be equivalent it’s gonna need to make like $100hr. I think at that bill rate I can’t do anything commodity, it’d have to be custom/expensive, so I can’t run a print farm and sell flexidrsgons, but instead like life size T. rex skeleton sculpture cast in aluminum for a museum. Alternatively my buddy owns his own cncs and runs 3 big cncs for aviation parts, I could probably learn to run some cncs and buy some more and maybe hire technician to grow his business. Anyone done anything like this? At my salary level diy is hard to get to pencil out
87 replies and 7 images omitted. Click here to view.
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here I am, bashing my head into a wall trying to get a decent job in a remote or office setting so I can stop ruining my back with labor jobs.

And wishing I could just research particles all day and engineer cool doohickeys.
>>
>>3002585
Women insist on spending any liquidity said money on those kids is more accurate but yea.
>>
It’s a true testament to the American economy that people as delusional as op can make it into adulthood and support families.
>>
>>2999617
I have 15 years experience as a house flipper and I make 50k to 80k every 3 months. It takes a long time to learn everything but other than my dad being an electrician and teaching me how to run wire I learned all the other trades through youtube university. Its just tough on your body so make sure to strech and eat a good amount of meat.
>>
>>3004907
What types of properties do you look for? Foreclosure auction? Do you have a real estate license?

I talked to a client, they informed that he had purchased his house by going through tax records. He paid the tax debt with the promise of either eventual tenant refunding him or the title changes hands at a given date. I'm not clear of the name of this process. But short of house fires or property firms buying in bulk, I don't see any bargains like that.

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Terrible pic related. Can i harden a flat, front surface with an induction heater? Instead of putting the induction coil around an object, in this case a simplified pipe, i'd put the induction heater straight in front, similar to an induction stove.
Basically i don't have a fancy oven, but a fancy induction heater can be had for 20€ a day here. Unfortunately every example online seems to be about welding and, or putting the induction coil around your object, not in front.
1 reply and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
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>>3004838
I have one of those induction heaters. the duty cycle is too short for anything more than 5 or 10mm.
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>>3004849
Hell yeah, that's exactly what i need.
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>>3004838
Yes you can, flat coils exist and this is actually part of a common hardening depth testing procedure.
>Induction heater for rent
In general if it's a serious pieve of kit you should be fine putting any load or even a short on the output as pong as it's bot capacitive. But I'd ask if they have a flat coil or allow you to put custom coils on before doing to. Making a primitive induction heater is cheap and easy.
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>>3004838
>i'd put the induction heater straight in front, similar to an induction stove
It would depend on the strength of the field where it intersects your metal object and the heat you are aiming for. I would doubt this will work.

What would work is if you put the rod into the coil, just enough to to fill the coil, and heat part of the rod and the tip at the same time.
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>>3004867
Been thinking a bit more. OP, you can always use various means to redirect a magnetic field as you see fit if your situation is that you can rent the machine but not change the coil. Ferrite core material can do it but even more so you can simply wind a pickup coil and work coil and close the loop. It would ha e the additional advantage of providing some loose coupling between the two coils. In my experience especially self oscillating heaters can crash if coupling to the work is too good.

Anyone have any experience with this saw? Seems like a good saw for DIY home use.
1 reply omitted. Click here to view.
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>>3004684
pretty sure skill is bosch. i can't bother to google it tho
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>>3004683
I bought a 7" Ryobi one years ago so I could use the same blades as on my circular saw. It's a little small, but it's fine.
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>>3004720
It’s the same company as Kobalt-Flex IIRC

>>3004683
Do you have a stand? You’re going to want one. If you don’t need the saw right now, wait a month and a half for the holiday sales to start in October. I got the Ryobi 10” sliding with a free stand for about the same money a couple years ago and it’s not bad for my like once every few month woodworking projects. Stick a Diablo blade or something on there instead of the Skil blade that comes with it. Also the DeWalt 12” slider always goes on sale with a stand around the holidays
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>>3004734
I have the stand for it. It wont be used daily so I don't need to spend $600+ on a Dewalt. Reviews are good and it has the LED shadow light and is supposed to be solid out of the box. Seems more than enough for a DIY miter saw that will be used once a week or so. I plan to get a Diablo blade for it. Just wondered if anyone had one and had an opinion on it.
>>
>>3004734
>dewalt stand clips don't break in the first two months every single time
>your employer doesn't flip shit that you ask them for $6 of replacements
>management buys themselves a fleet of Ford Raptors, a sliding panel saw, and hire four new project managers

I had to tear out the tongue and groove subfloor to move the drain pipe. I thought I would be able to add blocking but it turns out I have faggot ass tji joists. How do I support this shit for tile and a washing machine? I plan to use underlayment since it's osb. I have at least 3/4 inch clearance.
3 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
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>>3004641
>>3004637
Although from the looks of OP he’s not going to be able to use spanners it will have to be true joist I beam blocking panels.

Make sure to use glue as well as screws or nails.
>>
OP here. I forgot to mention the OSB was pried out, not cut out. Also, the gap in the original pic was where the washer originally sat. So if the existing setup supported the weight...

>>3004637
>>3004641
>>3004642
Doesn't this assume I can get a piece of lumber that spans the underside? I can't do that since the sheetrock is connected from the bottom.

>>3004639
I'm tired of cardboard houses man. If I had regular joists I would just block and move on with my life, but modern building is just ass sometimes. You can't even sister it easily
>>
>>3004637
What's the maximum acceptable subfloor deflection under tile and tile backer?
>>
Have you tried using cardboard to reinforce your glue and woodchip house?
>>
I have this same shit, just cut some 2x4 in the same length as the distance between the top of the joists, then turn your block sideways and slip it between the top 2 pieces. Use 2.5 inch screws at an angle to add in your braces. Once you have braces where you want then put some plywood back.

I know they say I joists you have to be careful with the upper and lower wood but a few screws isn’t going to hurt them. Just don’t sink the screw where the webbing meets the upper wood piece.

What should I do here? I only have about 5 inches of clearance between the dryer and the wall, else the door is blocked. I looked into telescoping vents but I think I still don't have the necessary clearance and I want to avoid modding the door if possible.
16 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
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I finally understand what anon is saying, the vent opening is so tight to the rear of the dryer there isn't even room for a turn.

you may have to open up the wall and move the dryer vent entrance to the position you need it, then patch up the drywall.
>>
>>3004082
Yes I have used the sheet metal telescoping "periscope" as you call it. You might have to modify it to fit. Tape your seams once you get it fitting right.
>>
You don't need a dryer. Nobody does. You're just conditioned to believe you need one. Just have your washing machine do a spin cycle and then hang it on a line, indoors or outdoors.
>>
>>3002062

thats a fire hazard waiting to happen when all the lint gets trapped in the bottom and causes a fire.
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>>3004615
It is not. Dryers blow almost has well as your mom. They can easily eject lint from the smooth walls of correctly installed ductwork.

That slinky and tin foil flex pipe stuff though? You will have lint build up with that stuff. It gets caught in the ridges, valleys, and little sharp angles of the foil. I would trust a 1 foot section of that even if it was pointed straight down. You will have to clean it.


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