>Share your most recent thing you made, whether it's sewing, 3DP, electronic, automotive, or whatever.>Talk about why you built it>Go through the build process>Share any lessons you learned along the way>Hang out with other /diy/nosaursI'll start.>Bought shitty, entry-level drum set from Guitar Center>No beater or pad for beater, just these little stomp pedals>Try them out and get terrible pains in ankles>Decide to /diy/ a solution>Buy generic pad and beater>Doesn't work right because apparently the stomp switches are digital and can't deal with the analog output from the piezo disk>Open stomp switch>Realize it's just a pressure switch and a 1/4" TS jackComment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>2999049made these to ordertheyre something to do with using a drill to spin a gearbox for assembly before the facemount motir gets hung. i dont ask too many questions so long as the check clears
>>2999049i bought a floor cleaner with a broken handle/wiring box. i couldn't find a company that could sell or source the part #, so i hacked together a retarded abomination of 3d printed parts, an aluminum project box enclosure, and some strain relief/cable grip glands.(it has 2 handles. because the project box is a cast part, it has a draft angle for mold release, which means i can't just "mirror" the handle in fusion 360 without the 2nd handle being off center and all fucked up -- and i AM too lazy to manually draw the second handle in CAD.)i actually drew up the handle/wiring box to be machined from aluminum billet but this idea went out the window when i realized it would cost like $100 to have machined, even in china.
>>2999203and the finished product. still need to buy some 10mm washers to clamp the handle grips in place. thank you ORECK for not selling a fucking replacement handle assembly.
>>2999055What type of tank was it? Like what did you need it so badly for during the Hong Kong Fluey?>>2999063Organizing shit always feels good. Good shit, anon.>>2999184What do you use to machine those? And how long you been doing it? I know fuck-all about metal work.>>2999330Good shit, anon. Building dumb shit is fun, but a functional project feels good as hell.
>>2999049this is a new computer and motion controller box for my burn tableair filter is a random spare for a old b&s engine i had on the shelf which hopefully doesnt plug up too fastjust trying to keep the metallic plasma smoke from ruining everything the chink box is mediocre. thin and dents easy and i cut myself about 3x on the razor burrs but a nice enclosure wasnt in the budget dont roast me too hard im not a panel sparky
Tell me why this wouldn't work.4x4 wooden posts with 2x4 (or similar) feet. Then I stake down each foot by just hammering some rebar down on it. Is this retarded? I want to be able to move the sails relatively easily compared to sinking posts into the ground with concrete.
Because the top of the post is applying 20 times the force to the base, because it's like a lever, this wouldn't even close to work. You wouldn't even secure the post let alone hang anything between them. One way to do is is guywires, from the posts to the ground. Another is to angle the posts outwards, another is a slack line between the posts and the sail so the sail can't pull a single post by itself. Usually you use all three.Another way is to sink a cement footing with a hole in it, and put the posts into the hole like bollards.If it's in your yard I would definitely put one solid post in the corner
These would be more solid than rebar and also prevent contact between wood and ground (a long term problem though).
>>2999530i recently attempted a sunshade with 4x4s and these completely submerged in concrete filled holesit did not work. a, the metal rusted out eventually. but before that they still bent from the tensioni would recommend 4x6 sunk 4 feet into the ground (with cement)maybe you could use hard steel rods, but they would need to be sunk deep with cementi abandoned the project instead of doing what I suggest
>>2997865Wouldn't it make more sense to make it rectangular in plan and add crossbars at the top?
Just got married on Saturday.I think it would be nice to preserve our wedding flowers, but I need to act immediately at least on the drying bit. Most flowers still look fresh but some are fading. I think I’ll go to Michaels and buy bulk silica gel to dry as many flowers as I can. The goal is to get something similar to pic related, but for a fraction of the price and with zero experience with the matter. Any tips or tutorials for something like this? It looks like you should pour the resin in layers, but how do I not fuck it up?
I hereby summon tick sphere anon
>>2998874He used shitty epoxy and turned them brown. He forgot to inject epoxy into the petals and now he has bubbles coming out of shitty brown flowers that he spent dozens of hours and hundreds of dollars on.
>>2996298>You don't have to degass so don't bother with vaccuumPressure is much more consistently effective for eliminating bubbles. But it requires having a pressure pot ($55 minimum) and a compressor ($70 minimum).Clearest and easiest epoxy system I've used is Buehler EpoxyCure 2. It's bisphenol based so it doesn't exotherm much at all. And as long as you use mold release the mold material is unimportant.Machining or polishing it after curing is easier than urethane, acrylic, or polyester.Longer cure time resins are going to be the safest and cheapest options though. As they provide a lot more time for the bubbles to escape, and they have way lower viscosity ratings so they wick into tight spaces easier.You will want to use a plastic-specific polish no matter what resin system is chosen.
>>2998936holy shit i can't believe someone saved my post from 8 years ago, i am immortalized in /diy/ culturei ended up burying this cursed object in the courtyard of my apartment so that future archeologists can try an decipher the nature of this artificial fossilno hummingbirds were harmed in the making i found it already dead on the sidewalk from hitting a skyscraper window
OP, come back and show us your results
I'm making these little eagle statues like pic related made out of plaster, my question is what should I use to coat it in order the piece be hard as rock and can resist a shipping without break the wings?I was thinking on transparent glue but im not sure if with that these little statues will survive to the shipping. How about glue in spray? I don't want add anything thick because I don't want lose the details and paint work on the little statue. Or should I mix plaster + glue to make my pieces? (I really don't want to use expensive Polyurethane Resin)Also is it true that you must "seal" plaster figures before and after paint it? I have waited like 2-3 days to paint my figures using based-water paints, the plaster is already dry, but when I apply this paint the plaster mixup with my paint creating a kind of white mud with my paint.
>>2999288I'm pretty sure he could ask chatgpt himself, moron
>>2999335and yet he did not, faggot
>>2999388maybe he wanted a first hand experience, and not some fat shit who haven't left his bedroom since Covid to google shit for him, bozo
>>2999438maybe i didn't want to type out the response that would have been exactly the same advice, cookie
>>2999189Encase it in clay
Alright guys, I'm in a bit of a pickle. I just bought this house a few months ago, and during this hot and humid weather I noticed some dripping coming from the ceiling of my utility closet where my HVAC unit is located. Long story short, condensate is forming on the ducts and dripping through some gaps in the drywall. It also looks like this continues through the hallway where this closet is located, basically all along where the ductwork runs for the first 10 feet or so. Pic related shows some of the staining outside of the closet.After spending many hours researching this issue, it seems that there's an open gap between my attic and the ceiling of this closet, causing all the hot humid air from the attic to create condensate on the cold uninsulated ductwork.My plan was to demo my ceilings myself, air gap the space between the closet and the attic, and insulate the ductwork for good measure. Then, leave the drywall reinstall and finishing to a pro.How doable is this project for someone who's done basic diy stuff before, like light plumbing repairs and basic car stuff? Should I attempt to do the drywall reinstall/finishing myself, or will it look like dogshit? I was also considering putting in the new drywall sheets and just letting a pro handle the finish/texture.
Pic of the gap in the attic. That hole goes for several feet horizontally, and I can feel cool air coming out in my sweltering attic when the AC runs.
>>2999501Pic is upside down btw
>>2999498Why don't you try insulating the ductwork first? It may fix the problem and should be done anyway. Or is attic access an issue?
>>2999513I read that utility chases like that shouldn't be exposed to the hot humid attic air. I figure it'll be easy enough to seal up that gap, the real work will be the drywall/duct insulation
I want to build a heater system for my wife's clawfoot. Safety is paramount, so no 120v pumps or heating elements in the tub. that rules out livestock tank heaters and submersible pond pumps. I will need a small tank with a self-contained heating element and a siphon type pump. all components must be wired outside of the tub.as for the heating tank; a 3 gallon RV type water heater could work, so long as it can run on 120v instead of 240v. power source is a standard GFCI outlet just behind the water valve tower. her ciclid tank uses a Fluval canister pump that siphons from the tank and has a return hose. however, i watch her swear and fight with it every time she cleans it. she then has to manually hand-pump prime it afterwards. were talking 10-15 mins of lifing/pumping a small oil-dipstick-looking thing, sometimes resulting in blisters on her finger. thats not a good way to start a relaxing soak session.i have already shopped for pre-made kit or setup. I can't find anything. I found one mfgr with one full-function jacuzzi clawfoot. had I found this 4 years ago i *might* have sprung for it, but it was 2x the price of picrel and we were already stretched thin on the construction budget. it is only 3 years old, installed and paid for.OK, Anon... let's brainstorm.
>>2998751landlordcore
Just get a souvide appliance. You can set the temp and they're already built for idiot consumer safety.
>>2998744>>2998751I've never had a clawfoot but that's how I and every gf I've ever lived with have had baths, is a clawfoot like those japanese ones where everyone shares the same water and you never drain it or something?
>>2998751why
>>2999451that's a pool
Why do people use GRP for flat roofs when it only lasts like 20 years and felt is way cheaper and easier to repair?
>>2999276The real problem is with snow build up, that shit will pile up several feet high
>>2999293Sometimes the old BUR with gravel flood are totally flat. I've actually seen a bunch of totally flat roofs. We are doing one in two weeks that if I took the taper system off, it would be 0/12 pitch. If the building is old as fuck, solid chance the roof is indeed totally flat. Not that can't be changed with polyiso or EPS.>>2999227TPO roof is great because of the gadgets. You don't need any cool gadgets for EPDM. I guess Rapid Lock membrane is gadget like and is definitely cool. I'm start a couple hundred squares of it 7/20.
>>2999275Bro... flat roofs aren't actually flat. They are built with a very low slope (I think it's 1/4" per foot minimum per IRC code) so that water drains off.
" they left the roofs flat intentionally so that water would pool on top of them and cool the buildings."It's called an irrigated roof & it's not to cool the building it's to cool the roof. It goes back to using asphalt as a roofing material. Asphalt gets hot it can bubble & crack. irrigating prolongs the life almost indefinitely . Best practice would be to looselay a couple of inches of granite chips over the asphalt & the water pools in that. Periodically, requires raking to keep it level & remove leaves etc.
>>2999313uh huh, its why they build the structure in general to sustain likely loads with a safety margin. Do you think everywhere it snows no large building is 'flat'?
6.75×5.25m total, comprised of two structures in one. solar shed is 2.5×5.25m. barn side is 4.25×5.25m.solar equipment shed was built by me and my 81-82 y/o (at the time) dad from 4/2023 to 6/2024. barn construction began 2/2025 and was bult mostly by me with some help from my wife. wife's rabbit business partner/friend and her husband helped install the steel roof and siding. the roll-up door arrives in 4 weeks, but the actual building(s) construction is complete as of 5/2026.solar shed houses inverter & batteries with our smaller 2440w array mounted on the roof. larger 4450w array is ground mounted just south of it. power to the house is buried in conduit that runs under the barn side. shed also stores building materials and garden tools. Barn side is dedicated to wife's rabbit business.shed side is 2x4 walls, 2x6 rafters, on concrete slab foundation, OSB sheathing and composition shingle roof. barn side is pole barn construction with 4x4 posts set 1m deep in concrete, furring strips between posts for steel R-panel siding and roof. there is one 2x4 stud wall on the north, also furred for steel siding, but it is not load bearing in the traditional sense. the barn currently has a dirt floor.all built on an extreme budget using lots of repurposed & scrap materials. shed cost aboot $975 all-in. barn was more expensive, less scrap/repurposed material @ $4,150. total structure $5,175 includes every screw, wire, conduit, panel, lumber, doors, window, concrete & trench machine rental.solar system provides 85%-110% of our power, total cost: $15,200. system layout designed by me, DIY install, grid-tied, non-export, self-consumption. all pricing in CAD. Dad's still happy, healthy and doing Dad stuff with Mum @ their house.
>>2998012Main door way missing cripple studs. That header is just there for looks I guess...
>>2999263The roof load is carried by the embedded posts right and left of doorframe, not by the door framing. The 4×4 header over the door is there to frame in the door, provide a place to attach the door frame and the furring for the steel siding, not to carry roof load.cripples are not required to carry roof loads in post frame buildings. the roof load goes directly through the concrete embedded posts. both posts, right and left of doorframe are embedded 1m deep in concrete.
>>2999246>you starting to seem like a racisti prefer the term race realist
>>2992378What the hell is with that door placement? Both on the far ends of one side? Cut an angle to fit the double doors? Why??
>>2999453the structure is two buildings under one roof. solar equipment and storage shed side is 2.5m wide. double door sits in the middle of that; 184cm rough opening. due to the 30° pitch of the roof for panels, I had to cut the right hand door to accommodate. while odd, it serves our purpose perfectly and maximizes utility and access.the left side is a 4.25 wide pole barn. door placement seems normal to us, but if you're looking for details; the rabbit cage layout, window & utility sink, counter & cabinet placement left us with about 1m of open space for a man door. placement also puts the door closest to the man door exit on the side our our attached garage. we wanted to preserve the north barn wall unobstructed, for cage layout, thus why there are no windows on it either. with the 1.8m roll up door on the wall opposite the man door, sink & window, the layout makes perfect sense. man door inswing doesn't interfere with primary floorspace, allows tractor, tiller, trailer, storage and work area in center if needed. it just generally makes best use of the entire open floor layout.while I certainly understand the curiosity about the one custom cut door on the solar shed, I dont really see the oddity of the barn door location.>>2999263picrelI misread your comment as "man door" instead of "main door". if you are referring to the roll-up door header, the same reasoning applies to it. header is not intended or needed to support the roof load. 1m concrete imbedded posts support the roof perfectly well without cripple assist.
I got a new 25.4 cc 2-stroke power head from ECHO and was using it today. I did not expect it to be as powerful as it is. It's the PAS-2620 model and it has a modular attachment system. I was using the string trimmer attachment with it and it was obliterating everything in its path with ease. It's super fun to use, I'm going to play with it some more tomorrow. Coming from a 4-stroke Craftsman, the ECHO somehow feels more powerful than that. And the string is much more durable, I don't know why that is.Not to sound like a shill, I guess the downsides are it's pretty expensive and with 2-stroke you have to mix 2-stroke oil with gasoline. Which isn't too bad and if you factor in that you can use the power head with all sorts of attachments it might save you money compared to buying a bunch of different dedicated non-modular power equipment. It's super powerful so you get what you pay for I guess. Can't wait to use it some more.Anyway, what power equipment have you anons been using?
>>2999210You sound like the kind of guy that buys a 2025 Ford at 15% APR to own the libs. But anyway, I recently got the DeWalt 60 volt tool head system. It takes me about 20 minutes to do my property and it only uses up one bar on the battery. The only modifications I've felt a need to do to it so far is to remove the safety for the trigger.You just put a battery in and pull the trigger. No maintenance at all. Minimal investment since I was already on battery system. The electrics work for homeowners. At this point the only guys they don't make sense for are people who are running them literally all day.
>>2995664There's still no grappling hook or motorized pliers / pinching tool available for work in the fieldAnd no hand held gasoline powered or electric bark stripping tool either. A small pump to drain spaces of 10-30 cubic meters would be nice also, but all of such pump are not portable and require electric power..
>>2999253>bark stripping toolits been around long enough theres numerous chink knockoffs>small pump to drain spaces of 10-30 cubic meters8000 gal for us burgers. considering 125 gal/min for 1 hr pump time @20ft head = 500 watt-hr = ~30ah 18v battery at textbook perfect efficiency just buy a chonda 160cc gas pump and a long suction house
Anyone know why there are so many nominal engine sizes in two stoke power equipment.For example Husqvarna brush cutters are 25cc 27cc 35cc 45cc and then a 50cc clearing saw.Meanwhile their pro chainsaws are 27cc 39cc 50cc 59cc 62cc 70cc 86cc 92cc and 118ccThe range of sizes makes sense but more than one size within 20cc of each other doesn'tHeck pictured the 40 and 61 would do most of you home owner demands, no need for the 44 and 50.
I think I have a problem, I'm chasing up a 50 at the moment as well.
Made a solid fuel forge. Insulated it with sand and used some fire bricks to lay the fuel on. Used a steel pipe with slots cut in it to supply it with oxygen from my bellows($3 hairdryer). Got the anvil from a buddy I work with who got a brand new one helping an old guy fix his garage door, and he didn't need it. I spent $50 on wood for the anvil stand. Pic related isn't the finished stand put together, I've got 12 4x4s in total to make sure it wouldn't fall over(6 I bought from the hardware store that I cut twice to make them level with my pelvis once I put the anvil on top). I've got a ball peen and a cross peen hammer, plus some files, and a punch. First project will be creating proper tongs
>>2994862>>2996080>>2996081>>2996094>>2996095don't forget to normalize and temper your bladesI made some whittling knives and chisels some time ago, I learned that it's best to shape the blade before the heat treatment you don't have to remove material for hours with stones or risk to overheat the steel with the angle grinderplus files will work just fine
>>2997340Yup, did exactly that! Plus I dip the material in water if im using power tools on them
>>2997347>>2997340Forgot to mention I also place my material in sand before I do any shaping. Humble sage for double posting.
Has anyone read that book that was on how to build your own machine shop? It was supposed to be a way to start the industrial revolution in the post apocalypse.
>>2994030Are you going to get into knife making?
Do yall have an experience and tips installing these prefab shower pan and walls?The original one broke so I'm trying to replace it. Problem is, the floor isn't really level. I applied a mortar mix to the floor and did my best to level it out. After I initially placed the pan into the mortar I was having difficulty getting one side to go down, causing it to be wildly unlevel. I lifted up the pan to make adjustments and now its fairly level. I'm worried that I disrupted the smoothness of the mortar and caused "rocks" to form. I'm worried that when I step on it tomorrow I'm just gonna ear a bunch of rocks crunching underneath. I'm also worried that the walls won't be level with the pan and I'll have some weird gap in the seams. Do yall got any tips? I dont want to cry to reddit for help, I hate those guys.
I did it
>>2995582> be (You)> did it (Yourself)Good
Id just inject a bunch of spray foam under it
>>2996984This
>>2995582Congratulations! Congratulations
Not this house or area, specifically, but WTF is the "landscape" for rehab on what is surely LEAD PAINT house that needs TLC and DIY?In 'Frisco, CA there was some scam where you'd get sued by neighbors who'd claim your lead got into their dirt, even though all dirt in SF has lead, and it was illegal to take samples before hand. No idea how that shake out or if still going on.But what about more "reasonable" areas? I'm I going to be "Catch-22" where I can't fix shit without building a NASA tier clean room 3 stories high, but I'm also going to be hit with "blight" fines?https://www.zillow.com/homedetails/432-Pine-Ave-Cumberland-MD-21502/36163766_zpid/
>>2999290didnt care
>>2999334Cared enough to respond kek
>>2998007Because of the age kf the house you wi I l never be able to get rid kf the lead.paint notice you need to sign while selling the house. No one cares about it
>>2998164>basement on some DIY stuff and then getting the Taco Bell shits. You'd have to crab walk up two flights of stairs so steep they are no longer legal before you could relieve yourself.I'd just shit in a 5-gal bucket. :)When I was living in a van I'd keep a bucket for "emergencies".
>>2999243>weyou newfags, seriously
How do you secure these in the tool's plastic box?
>>2998212epoxy
>>2998212These guys are made of tool steel. You don't need to worry about them bouncing around or getting scratched, but you do need to keep the shank clean and lubricated when you put them in the rotary hammer.You need to get some grease and cleaning rags in there and use them each time before you use a drill bit. You do not want to get a bit stuck inside your rotary hammer! I only own one hammer that I use every work day. Lesson learned.I recommend keeping the shank in the plastic cases they came with and keep them wedged in there with foam or something. Lessen the need for cleaning.
>>2998836BASED
>>2998589Cut "rubber bands" from bike inner tubes. But in all reality just let them rattle around the case like a man. I have 3 different hammer drills and the bits rattle around in there just fine. The two hilti metal cases have spots for the bits so that is nice.
>>2998867>respectis earned.
is habitat for humanity /diy/-approved?thinking of volunteering with em on weekends, heard its a great way to basically get free interviews and network with local contractors in your area
Has anyone here done a automatic swing gate before?I was thinking about buying just the actuator itself and running it from a esp32 and some shit I have laying around but looking at the prices of just the actuators are basically as expensive as a cheap Chinese hydraulic system for a tip trailer.Kinda wondering now because it would be much faster with hydraulic since it needs a third as much leverage as electric
>>2999124how do i open a gate without getting out of the car simplest solution i can think of is to spring load the leaves of the gate like those door closers but to open then you unlatch from the car window and it gently opens up
Build a battlegate.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=obHfbI5nRJI
>>2999153the rope and pulley unironically would work if it was long enough to reach the car
>>2999010wtf
>>2999010If this happens it might be better to just uproot the tree, otherwise you'll have to cut a passage through it for cars
