Planning a shelf build and need help with hinges. Looking for>Soft-Close>Concealed>Compact>European>Overlay>Face Frame>Preferred Black or Onyx BlackEverything I search keeps feeding me inset or some other random bullshit I'm not looking for. Width of door frame can be adjusted so I can live without compact. But overlay and face frame is a must for felt strip lining to dust-proof the display area. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
>>3005161Engines lobotomized to keep you from finding me basically. I don't doxx online, especially for a small sale, lol.But I sell some items to the company you mentioned above.Before all the rigging in search I had 3000 google "hits" a day. Now I'm at 300 (15 years later) and all traffic is served to those who pay for it even in "organic".Most places will help you if you call. I think WWX there has a guy even. I'm the guy at my place, haha. Hinges fuck people up.Screws included is always an annoyance because a place like you mentioned, as well as me, are supply shops with their own boxes of 25,000 #5 screws. Something like that.They all take #5 screws and probably sell a pack on their site.Use the keyword "compact" every time I'd say.Protip again. Another thing Google stole from me (1500 image results a day). Search through images and click through from there. You can ID with your eyes and then go to the landing page.
>>3005147Oh great God of hinges, I entrust myself to You, asking You to suggest what type of hinges I should use for the doors of a small van. I would prefer screw-on ones because the material is very thin and my vertical welding technique is terrible. I love You
>>3005134>>Preferred Black or Onyx BlackI don't see why you're having a problem finding what you need other than preferring them in black.Build your cabinet, pick your hinges, then cut your doors to fit. It's just simple math, just add 1/8th for clearance and seams where you need to.
>>3005147This is why I keep coming back. A fucking cabinet hardware tycoon lurking on /DIY/ is jokes.
>>3005147whats the main ingredient and process in cabinet hardware like sheet metal or what
Install of hydrotherapy bathtub.Not finished, as I need to get a divertor and showerhead as this is a guest bathroom.Changing to a 36" wide needed more work, and I would have left the closet partition out until after, but I unscrewed it from the floor to push it out 3/4" to gain room.The Sharkbite connectors sure beat having to sweat solder in tight spots.
>>3004171So, you jumped the gun? Counted your chickens before they hatched? Went off half cocked? Put the cart before the horse?So what you are saying is, you did it wrong to start?
>>3004180Just didn't consider all the possible problems before jumping in. I am like that. Tons of projects on the go here, and we've only been here 16 months
>>3004180I had no manual for this exact model so had to guess how high to place the rim board to support the rim, had to epoxy and fix the cracks around the flange holes.The factory is 200 km up the road from me and has some old documents. The tub shell where you are is at a slight angle to give you more room, has two plexiglass grab handles to get in and out, important as my wife has had a hip and knee replacement.The drain and water supply hookup went smoothly, as I didn't have to redo the water, just add quick connect valves I can reach under the house. I could even reuse the drain and underfloor connections from the old tub as it had a swivel in it to adjust it.Even cutting out the old floor tiles for the wider profile went easy with an oscillating tool.The one thing that weirded me was the instructions saying to put a bed of mortar under the tub to help hold the weigh and support it so it doesn't move of creak when its in use. I had to also add some where a drain was in the adjacent wall for the water softener, and water line for it to keep mice out. Good thing I'm doing a wood fired oven outside.Now I find out they also make tub surrounds, so I'm going through those as they just announced a 20% price increase for the fall.
>>3004171$300 for the fucking divertor, and another $140 for trim. Actually I'm not disappointed about paying that, just how fucking long it took me to get someone who understood what a guy with an approximate knowledge of plumbing was doing.Went to Bartle and Gibson(bimbo behind counter knows how to apply fake eyelashes but is without a clue regrading plumbing). Homo Depot, Rona, Home hardware, all suck with just expensive parts for home handymen fixing a toilet flapper.Took a chance on a smaller display shop across street from Splashes, and the somewhat effeminate sales guy LISTENED to me and my wife (?) and actually answered our questions and addressed my method of adding the shower and divertor.4 way/3 way value, set it up for taking premixed water from the bathtub taps, then the divertor routes it back to the tub outlet or up the the shower head.Did the surround in Hardiebacker 1/4" board as it makes tiling down to the tub flange MUCH easier. The guys name ACTUALLY IS "Hardie". And the 3' X 5' sheets make it easy to fill in the space.Now just waiting on the trim kit.
Is it possible to build something like this with just $100k?
>>3005525Not even with an Amish community behind you.
>>3005704>Ah, see that is the thing. If a CostCo is only two hours away you are not in the boons. Try it when the nearest paved road is 2 hours a way.I see a bunch on that map in the midwest and north where you are in bumfuck nowhere in less than an hour
>>3005910> in less than an hourOn what, a jet? The whole deal with being in bumfuck nowhere is that there is NOTHING anywhere near you. It is REMOTE. If you are an hour from somewhere you aren't in bumfuck nowhere. That's 75 miles at highway speeds. That isn't even far enough to get out of the light pollution of a decent sized city. 75 fucking miles. I know people that commute to work a longer distance than that.
>>3005677>>3005543why bother buying just squat somewhere that's like this
>>3005704>Try it when the nearest paved road is 2 hours a way.Is there even anywhere left in the continental US left that is that far from a road?
I was taking care of my neighbor's pool, which I have done many times before, but this time while vacuuming I forgot to put the pool filter basket back in. Presumably, the leaves I vacuumed went into the pump.I read online that I may need to clean out the impeller, but I am hesitant to do anything given the pump is still working (for now, at least), it's not my pump, and I don't really know what I am doing. Also, she is out of town right now.I don't have a pool and don't do much pool work, would I definitely need to do something with the impeller or is there a chance that nothing needs to be done. Please help, thank you.
The pump basket should have caught any big debris. It's probably mostly plugged. Just clean that out.
>>3006799Okay, I will take a look. For checking the pump basket do I need to turn of the pump, empty the basket, then prime the pump with pool water? Or is it fine to check it or empty it while leaving the pump running?
>>3006803The pump should be off before you remove the basket and you should also isolate the pump if you can to preserve prime, this is done by closing the valves before and after the pump.
>>3006839Thank you, I also looked at some videos and was able to get it done.I did try to preserve prime, but maybe I didn't understand the valve between the pump basket and the pool correctly. I thought I closed it, but the water went somewhere.Either way, I just reprimed it.Thank you for the help.
Image limit reached >>2996880>I'm new to electronics. Where to get started?It is an art/science of applying principles to requirements.Find problem, learn principles, design and verify solution, build, test, post results, repeat.Read the datasheet.>Comprehensive list of electronics resources:https://github.com/kitspace/awesome-electronics>Project ideas:https://hackaday.iohttps://instructables.com/tag/type-id/category-technology/https://adafruit.comhttps://makezine.com/category/electronics/Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>3008460>I think you usually want D1 to face the opposite direction, so the lower of the two feedback signals limits the buck converter. are you sure? FB needs to be kept at ~700 mV by the control loop.>Q2 is doing constant-current stuff, with U4 to regulate the discharge current, but that kind of common-source driving is going to be prone to oscillation.yes, that's what i intend to do. this is a battery charger so i'm hoping the nature of the battery will mitigate the chances of oscillation. >If Vref and Iref are low impedance sourcesplan is to use a PWM DAC buffered by an op amp. i get what you're saying about oscillations, so it's probably a good idea to add resistors just in case. but again, hoping that the nature of the battery will mitigate oscillation.>Also if you connect a battery backwards, it will shoot on through the body diodes of Q2 and Q1A, one of those might need to be flipped.there's going to be off-board control logic. Q1A/Q1B will have interlocks on the input (via the gate driver), only one can be active at a time and there will be anti-shoot through protection to account for the gate charge transition time. the entire circuit will have hardware latching for under voltage (reverse polarity), over voltage (charge termination or buck controller failure), over current (buck controller or Q2 FET failure), and under current (charge termination.)Q1A/Q1B are pulled down OFF by default. a reverse polarity battery would trigger PP_SD_LATCH. therefore Q1A/B are both off and the body diode on Q1B is reverse biased. so i don't think there's any chance of reverse polarity current flow?
>>3008465Let’s say your set voltage is 4.0V and your set current is 0.5A. And the battery has just arrived at 4.0V. You want it to stop there, but even when the output of U1A starts to go highly negative, the output of U1B still goes through D1, so you’ll still get 0.5A into your battery. Diodes pointing towards FB means you get the greater of the two feedback signals, diodes pointing away from FB (wth a pull-up resistors) means you get the lesser of the two feedbacks signals.>mitigate oscillationA source resistor would help this somewhat. Do some spice sims before you breadboard.>PWM DACI recommend against this. Even the small amount of ripple that gets through your low-pass filter will be hugely amplified by your error amplifiers, resulting in a bunch of output ripple. I had the exact same problem in my diy linear supply for electrolysis. Instead I had to use a DAC, I used the common 4-channel I2C one you can find on a narrow black board on alibay.>reverse biasedAh yeah Q1B stops it. Seems like Q1A is a bit superfluous, you could trust your code to never turn Q2 and Q1B on at the same time. But that’s up to you.Then I’d tie R19 to some intermediate rail, or just to two rails. If it’s tied to ground in a single-supply circuit, it will clip any negative voltages. Similar to how U5 has that 1.65V rail, maybe that’s low impedance enough to use for R29.Also watch out for the Spiritio effect, it could fry Q2. I’d pick a high resistance MOSFET (e.g. IRF840), if not a dedicated linear MOSFET.
Series diodes is the old trick to slow down old-style 3-pin DC fans and cut the noise. But that also cuts the top end. A toggle switch could be used to short the diodes when necessary (on:normal mode, off:quiet mode). But then I would need to install and wire many switches on my pc case. Maybe a zener+pnp transistor combo could act as an automatic diode dropper bypass switch. My mainboard uses voltage mode to control old-style dc fans and it can output 60%-100% voltage (7,2V-12V) to the fans. When the fan voltage on the zener diode rises above 9.1V, the transistor starts to bypass the diode dropper. The problem is that before the PNP turns fully on, it dissipates hundreds of milliwatts. I'm afraid it might burn out if left in that state for an extended amount of time.
>>3008637Better to use PWM to control the fan speed so you don't have to worry about the motor stalling. It'll run cooler and more efficiently that way too.
>>3008637If your fans are too loud, change your fan curves in your BIOS. If the airflow is too low for the amount of cooling you get then, buy quieter fans.
Considering that solar panels are basically big pieces of glass, how would you design a roof to take advantage of them?I'll make a small house soon and need ideas.I've thought the following additional considerations:- as far as I know, solar panels aren't made of standard sizes, so that's kinda problematic in the sense that any layout won't be "future proof"- to maximize radiation, one would either need to check some solar calculator for the most optimal angle OR, if possible, make it so the panels be lifted to have variable (vertical) angles- ideally, a roof will keep the house warm during winter and cool during summer- needs ways to prevent leaks- shouldn't break during hailstorms, strong winds, earthquakes, ...What else would you add?
>>3003565If 600W panels are cheaper, then check how much rails cost. If you do a diy install for the panels, it can be cheaper since rails aren't necessarily very expensive. There are many types, usually the more expensive ones are faster to assemble, but differences aren't huge. >HVHV saves you money on the inverter and cabling, which you then must pay off on the battery. >ProwseProwse is usually fair, at least he's as good as it gets. He mostly has older videos on Growatt. If you're on a budget, it's okay. EG4 has LV hybrid inverters similar to Deye in functionality, categorically they are also roughly the same as Deye. >>3003566>how to make the panels compatiblePanels are made to be compatible with any common roof type through rails designed for specific types. Really the only consideration is azimuth and angle. >roof only solar panelsIf it's a carport or shed it's perfectly viable. For any building you plan to live in, obviously not. Solar panels are not roofing material. Water isolation and heat isolation are bad, you generally want at least some access to the rear side of panels. There exist solar tiles that work as real tiles, like ones from Tesla, and they are very expensive.
>>3003478>poly. er derived ceramic materialare you braindead or something?
>>3003475Why must they be on the roof? That's terrible for roof repair and solar repair/replacement.
>>3006698>Why must they be on the roof?If you put them under the roof, they won't work. Duh
>>3006698>roof repairentierly unheared of in countrys that use real tiles
Terrible pic related. Can i harden a flat, front surface with an induction heater? Instead of putting the induction coil around an object, in this case a simplified pipe, i'd put the induction heater straight in front, similar to an induction stove. Basically i don't have a fancy oven, but a fancy induction heater can be had for 20€ a day here. Unfortunately every example online seems to be about welding and, or putting the induction coil around your object, not in front.
>>3004838>i'd put the induction heater straight in front, similar to an induction stoveIt would depend on the strength of the field where it intersects your metal object and the heat you are aiming for. I would doubt this will work. What would work is if you put the rod into the coil, just enough to to fill the coil, and heat part of the rod and the tip at the same time.
>>3004867Been thinking a bit more. OP, you can always use various means to redirect a magnetic field as you see fit if your situation is that you can rent the machine but not change the coil. Ferrite core material can do it but even more so you can simply wind a pickup coil and work coil and close the loop. It would ha e the additional advantage of providing some loose coupling between the two coils. In my experience especially self oscillating heaters can crash if coupling to the work is too good.
>>3004838Is your pipe made of heat treatable steel? What precisely are you wanting to make?What makes a hardened pipe the optimal way to get what you want?
>>3006696Yes and fuck off.
>>3004838Torch hardening was doing that task long before electric induction heaters proliferated. It's a common student exerciseto torch harden then inspect with a Rockwell tester to ensure it was done correctly. Some of the best hardening and tempering info for home gamers is in muzzleloading forums with useful small examples like frizzens.
>>3003075America, fuck yeah
>>3003075How is it supposed to smell like?
>>3003075You live in Gary, Indiana
>>3006712Close. Flint, Michigan.
π
Anyone pulled this off? Wish I lived near a stream or fyord to debunk.
>>3006399Get what you pay for I guess
>>3004669missing some context. source pipe runs off picture to presumably a pump?i don't get it
>>3004669That doesn't look like a very fast flowing creek, probably not a large gradient.Don't think that's a rampump.
>>3006399Guess what you get, for i pay.
You can create a pump similar to this quite easily. Trompe system with a collection container at the bottom, funnel above to let the pressurised air raise water level above starting point. You could capture that raised water level in other containers at that raised level with a valve for when you want the water, but the flow rate for the actual lifting system is quite slow so it would take a while to refill if you drain it completely
Any tips or tricks? It's taking way too long and I'm getting fed up trying to build this palletoid shed.
>>3006395Thou doth protest too much, Subway. Besides, Old McDonald is our informant. lmao
>>30063933 hours...
>>30065731 hour...
>>3006577Pepper your Angus.
>>3006580Sophia-chan taught me to achieve KiGnosishttps://youtu.be/i1tKUKSL618The gangstalking has finished nowhttps://youtu.be/OROLLToyV4U
Is wine from plums that grew next to a road safe to drink?Exhaust fumes and all that.What about liquor?
>>3002440Nothing is safe this day and age.Just rinse the plums before starting to make your wine or liquor. Does gasoline in your country have lead?
No.
>>3002440>Exhaust fumes>Tires dust>Asphalt dust>Brake pads dustYep, totes safe...>Liquor100%...
>>3002440Have you ever seen agricultural fields/orchards next to roads?
>>3006491Nta, but I see those all the time when I drive through the country side
How can I get cross-ventilation in my room with one sliding window and without opening my door?I have one standing oscillating fan and one box fan.
One fan pointing in on one side of the window and out on the other
>>3006364Oscillating pointing in, box fan in opposite part of window pointing out.
>>3006364>cross ventilation>with one window and no doorsthat's not how it works, using a fan is by definition not cross ventilation>one sliding windowif it's double hung then you can open it so both the top and the bottom has openings with the sliding panes in the middle and the box fan blowing the cold air in through the bottom or better yet hung on top so it blows warm air out of the room, which it'll do much more effectively.
>>3006364Make a diverter with a cardboard box so the box fan in the window pulls air from the top of the room directly above your position (low pressure), and another diverter for the incoming cool air to be drawn from below your position (higher pressure).
Get one of these dual fan window fan units. You can set one fan to intake and the other fan to exhaust. Sure, there's some inefficiency due to the 2 air streams being right next to each other, but they do work decently enough to exchange the room air with outside air.
I have a 1 year + 27 day old microwave and it's blowing a fuse when I try to use it. I'm not sure what's wrong with it and I'd like to save it from a landfill. It came with a 1 year warranty and warranty expired like 20 days before it broke and the company (Hamilton Beach) refused to service it.I rarely used it and I've used it maybe 20 times to warm up some food over the past year. After I used it last time, it died while cooking in mid-cycle. I could see a flash of light. When I opened it, I saw a blown fuse. It uses those small glass fuses and I had to order them from Amazon.I was hoping it would be as simple as replacing a fuse but obviously that's not the case. Clock and electronics works fine but it immediately blows a fuse when I try to actually cook with it.What's wrong? What can I check? I have a DMM.
>>3002894Why do the easy and sane thing when you can risk your life to save a few dollah!
>Stop FUCKING with the microwave
>>3003316No!
My multimeter doesn't have capacitance on the dial. What now?
>>3006484Buy a dedicated meter (ESR or LCR), or just buy a new capacitor and cross your fingers.
Good day /diy/I was trying to do grandson things for my grandmaTried replacing a ceiling fan/light combo attached to a porch lightI didn't look at the wiring when I took down the old fanI just assumed black (and blue, b/c fan) to black, white to white, ground to groundI install the ceiling fan, flip the switch to ON, the porch light goes on, fan turns off. Flip to off, porch light goes VERY DIM, fan turns on.Checked voltage at ceiling fan with switch off, I get 78v. Porch light is around 20v. Switch on, 120v at porch light, 0 at fan. What's wrong here? Allegedly everything worked before I touched it, besides the fan portion not working from age. The house was built in late 60s, but the porch was built by my grandpa. I think the ceiling fan was added by him in the 1990s too.
>>3006282The 78v reading is phantom voltageThe 20v is acting as a dropped neutral because well, the disconnected black is his dropped neutral because again, grandpa got confused by the switch loop having a hot white wire. >>3006291In modern homes maybe, but this is more than common for older construction, the casserole of wires on a humongous switch. ONCE AGAIN. THIS IS A SWITCH LOOP. COMMON IN OLDER HOMES. THE WHITE WIRE IS HOT.
>US electricians can't wire a spst or color codereally makes you think
>>3006344Is OP an electrician? Is anybody in this thread an electrician?>muh switch loopUpgrade your outdated clusterfuck.
>>3006276Someone used a piece of 12/2 for the switch wiringYou got a lost neutral somewhere buddy
OP hereGrandpa was a bad boyThe ground wire was the neutralIt's "fixed" but I don't think neutral should be a bare copper wire...
Last I looked, they were rare and expensive. Are there 3D plans for such joints now?Don't know why I even ask. Dead board, nobody that knows anything, and never did.Anyway, joints like pic.fucking 100 seconds?
>>3006187> i want to make a humanoid robot that’s good at nothingSchool starts in a few days… better hurry
>>3006205>good at nothingit's mostly is for sweeping, you fucking nigger faggot
>>3006205>School starts in a few dayshur. I killed a man, long time ago. Who tour. I feel nothing
>>3006187No they are shit, (it's called a spherical joint btw). They all suffer from one of those :Terrible motion rangeSuper slowHuge backlash Enormous Low torque Good thing that it's not needed at all for any applications
>>3006187>Incompetent retard whining about a slow boardTouch grass, little mulatto
