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File: 1760014617031737.jpg (394 KB, 2048x1536)
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I have a 1 year + 27 day old microwave and it's blowing a fuse when I try to use it. I'm not sure what's wrong with it and I'd like to save it from a landfill. It came with a 1 year warranty and warranty expired like 20 days before it broke and the company (Hamilton Beach) refused to service it.

I rarely used it and I've used it maybe 20 times to warm up some food over the past year. After I used it last time, it died while cooking in mid-cycle. I could see a flash of light. When I opened it, I saw a blown fuse. It uses those small glass fuses and I had to order them from Amazon.

I was hoping it would be as simple as replacing a fuse but obviously that's not the case. Clock and electronics works fine but it immediately blows a fuse when I try to actually cook with it.

What's wrong? What can I check? I have a DMM.
129 replies and 28 images omitted. Click here to view.
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>>2988540
Normally you discharge through a high-value resistor using a screwdriver with an electrically insulated handle and a wire with alligator clips on either end. Clip one end of the wire to the screwdriver shaft and the other to a resistor that is firmly connected to ground.
>>
>>2988545
and then touch the screwdriver to the cap terminals.
>>
>>2988540
>>2988545
As he said already but make sure the screwdriver has the right rating 2500v rating should be fine for most miscrowave caps and make sure you got a good connection to ground, and also this is just a rule for high voltage don't touch stuff with both your hands if you are discharging the cap use one hand only
>>
>>2986114
Did you ever check the door switches?
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>>2958927
Finished?

File: 20260508_135831.png (1.64 MB, 1164x1632)
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Some moron put the vent pipe through the room and i'm trying to figure the best way to hide it or beautify it.
They had a fake wall there. It needed torn down because of moisture issues leaking down from the attic as well as coming up from the crawl space because they didnt seal it up.
Any Ideas on what to do with this?
7 replies and 3 images omitted. Click here to view.
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>>2989847
Add a dozen more pipes around it, making it less likely that anyone will identify it as being the actual pipe responsible for all of them being there
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>>2989910
just stand in front of it and face the other way bro
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>>2989884
That's where the sharts are trapped don't do it!
>>
>>2989884
Oh I'm aware and i really dont care as long as it doesnt leak
>>2989893
looking good
>>2989852
>just make one
with my over 9000 hrs of wood working skills? The fuck dude. If i was that talented, i wouldnt be hanging out on /diy/
>pay for one
>over $9000
no thats insane
>>2989914
legit facts
>>
>>2989884
Retarded

How do I fix it?
24 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
>>
tie wire the bad sections
>>
depends how far from society you are but a spot welder or a solder iron might let you remelt certain ends but if its entirely falling apart just toss it sadly
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>>2985891
spot weld it
>>
File: 864186574.jpg (25 KB, 356x372)
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>>2985889
>Mix cement to the consistency where you could gently place a fork on it and the mix will keep its shape.

>place the good part of that wire fencing on the cement and take it off.

>let it cure completely until it's rock solid

>take the broken parts of the fence and place them on the mold that you've created (you may have to get pliers to fit the broken parts into the grooves).

>hit it with a blow torch until it all melts together.

>repeat this for every section.

>you can get a rat file (or really any kind of small file) and smooth out the flat sides.


Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
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weave it

File: yard plans.png (281 KB, 1463x1214)
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With the world going the way it is, I'd like to grow as much food on my own yard as possible and could use some advice and suggestions on what to do with it.

Here's a map of the yard with everything currently growing on it. My current plans are to plant a third row of currants in the eastmost yard, possibly a hedge of chokeberries along the road, and I'm thinking of planting one apple tree in the triangular batch of grass behind the shed. Beside those, the large front yard next to the road is currently entirely unused, so how would you optimize it's usage? Any other tips I should take into consideration?
20 replies and 10 images omitted. Click here to view.
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>>2984178
Gentlemen, rev up your shed folders. Another path has hit the house.
>>
What about the blackberries, blueberries, strawberries and gooseberries? I think you really need to add more fruit anon.
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>>2987757
plan out small blocks and develop the soil, then expand as you learn what sort of pathing/layout is actually good. plant some easy to grow (but not landscaping tier) annuals that you know you like and then you'll get inspired from there tbqh. you could even start in growbags or similar mobile containers to see what you like to do, without the commitment. the only wrong way to go about it is being too scared to do anything at all and wasting years that you could be having fun planting
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>>2987703
This is necessarily kind of a compromise between full apocalypse scenario and a "current economical decline continues" one. Potatoes (or apples if there was time to grow trees) would be by far the best ways to grow maximum amounts of food, but for now potatoes are still so cheap I'd rather not live the post-apocalyptic life when it isn't necessary.

>>2987755
Chickens would be by far the most productive animals to keep, but they're also a lot of responsibility. I wouldn't trust my abilities to give animals the care they'd need.

>>2987770
I have strawberries and blueberries already. Strawberries in particular are insanely productive, and just the narrow batch on the side of the road produces enough for an entire breakfast every day.

Blackberries produce very little for the space and effort they take, but I'm definitely getting more gooseberries. I'm looking into blueberries too.
>>
>>2984265
Facts

File: 1748963428484070.jpg (57 KB, 1300x957)
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>"so mr.anon was this a workplace injury?"
8 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
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>>2989130
Because the government wants extra paper work to provide government compensation for missed work

t. fellow first worlder with universal health care
>>
>>2989131
because the bossman pays for every expense
t. middle eastern
>>
>>2987964
Yes, due to sheer coincidence, when I was hammering in some nails I tripped and fell and the claw of the hammer took my pants and underwear off as it fell, then landed handle up which I then proceeded to land on through no fault of my own.
>>
>>2989139
That's all well and good Mr. Anon, but how did you manage to do that 17 consecutive times????
>>
>>2988878
Kek based

i made my own custom Operating system, , it took me a while but atleast i am satisfied with what i did, i present the Think Operating System, Or ThinkOS. its written in bare metal assembly, with some features[as you can see in the picture], it has a bootloader, a terminal with some nifty commands, and more. it can even run DOOM
48 replies and 4 images omitted. Click here to view.
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>>2983928
give source code
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>>2988314
No. Fuck off.
>>
What happeened to doom?
>>
>>2988398
lmao what? your own screenshots say open source. did you just rip from here?
https://github.com/AllenDowney/ThinkOS
>>
>>2983928
Good shit

I want to /diy/ my own spring loaded floating arm stand, pic related I don't know what the actual name is.

I'm assuming all the arm lengths and spring sizes etc have to be perfectly tuned for it to work. Anyone know how this functions? Also where can you get such a specific spring? (like exactly this long, and exactly this stiff?)
2 replies omitted. Click here to view.
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>>2988517
>where can you get such a specific spring?
as a sales rep once told me
>if theres 2 of something in the world
>mcmaster likely had 1 of them
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>>2988517
>I want to /diy/ my own spring loaded floating arm stand
says he is going to do something, then asks other people how to do it.

it doesn't matter you don't have the skills or initiative to actually do it, and you won't.
>>
>>2988517
Balanced arm lamp, commonly known as ikea tertial

>>2988578
Come on man once he has the statics figured out it’s super easy. Had to do it in 1st year of mech Eng I’m sure a somewhat motivated anon could do it

>>2988517
All you really need to know, moving the lamp away from the base should extend the spring(s) and vice versa. You can tune the spring preload by moving the attachment point to a factor 5 or so, so stiffness is not super important. Most furniture springs should do, look at home depot for similar size or get replacement springs for a tertial from ikea (or a broken one from marketplace). Most furniture springs of a similar size should do, Lowes or aliexpress will have them
>>
>>2988589
>I’m sure a somewhat motivated anon could do it
which means he won't.
>>
pixar

File: images (14).jpg (45 KB, 596x335)
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What am I in for?
54 replies and 12 images omitted. Click here to view.
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File: 9odm8x.jpg (79 KB, 500x565)
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>>2988016
stay in your hoa safespace
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>>2986081
Wrap in chicken wire and plaster up with adobe
>>
>>2988019
Local farmers let the army contract to use land for manuvers.
The county uses sattalight photos to determine structures on land for taxation.
Satellite picks up on temporary army structures and then bills the farmer for a massive amount of roof space.
Can't contest it because fuck you we don't have an appeals process.
>>
>>2988569

Nta, couple of my non-dwelling structures were destroyed in a natural disaster a while back. Still getting billed for them on taxes, too busy to dispute it for the couple hundred dollars a year. Had to deal with permit office for something else and they started pulling up old sat photos of when they were destroyed but not cleared off. Just look like a barn in the middle of a reroofing. So eventually when I rebuild and make a nicer building with power and plumbing and the county wants a permit to allow power company to set meter, I will act dumb and say the roof was torn off and it took me a while to fix it. In my experience county workers are 75% retarded 25% malicious. But ma’am why would I be paying taxes on a destroyed building, that makes no sense. Gotta use their laziness against them
>>
>>2986159
Well yes

not a very good picture so you have to trust me on this one
I want to replace the timber wall in the picture (at the left of the bush with pink flowers) with something that will last a bit longer than 10 years
So I have to dig into the hill so I can fill the back of the wall with crushed rock (before building the wall itself (I haven't decided what yet but that's not important now)
The problem is that the only way to get rid of it (in an efficient way) is to carry it into the woods on the left
Uphill
The question is ... what's the best way?
The best idea I could come up with is building a chute out of some OSB or plywood and I can use some ropes to drag some sort of container uphill
Second best is using some of the pressure treated 6x6s to bury some steps into the slope and use them as steps to literally carry the dirt

To the right there's my house with very limited and/or awkward space around it to the driveway. Bringing stuff to build the wall will be a separate issue but that's a bridge I'll cross when I get to it

Any ideas are appreciated
13 replies and 4 images omitted. Click here to view.
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File: 1776910274704418 (1).jpg (82 KB, 2397x1317)
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>>2987542
uhh i would install a geo grid for the blue wall, you have a surcharge with that secondary wall; a small failure on the top wall will be much larger load than static one, most of those retaining wall stones at box stores can only do so much.
dig 6in+ extra and lay some safety netting between a few course and go back further than the new wall; the netting will pull the old wall into the hill and any added weight from a small failure will work against the dynamic forces. not exactly a dead man, but you're not transferring large load; spread that through the safety plastic netting, like velcro with each hole pulling against the dirt
inb4 i am geo-grid polyurethane purist.
>>
It turns out that the trees you see at the top of the hill leaning to the right (towards the house) are a more pressing issue for now (I don't want to pay some company a few tens of thousands of $ and doing it by myself might take a while)
thanks for all the ideas anyway
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>>2989205
>trees above a retaining wall are leaning over
That slope is slowly sliding downhill. Your retaining wall is failing.
>>
>>2987428
I'd make a sort of rail cart system (the concept not in all actuality) that operates on a pulley system of several compound/complex pulleys to make it effortless to pull it up and over, but instead of the pulley simply lifiting the container (of which you throw the dirt into) you're using it to move the container across some tracks you build to go over the hill and into the valley.
Not only is it a fun project, but it's stuff you can use in a variety of situations in an otherwise cramped space that an excavator wouldn't fit and is better than thugging it out with just a wheelbarrow.
>>2987466
think of this but instead of renting and electrical, it's all mechanical and can be built from a trip to home depot or Lowe's and for like 200 bucks maybe if you're fancy about it.
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>>2989205
Update?

File: 915FEC+G3SL.jpg (679 KB, 2560x2560)
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What is the best paint for wood dolls?
I have a fist full of these and want to make a little village. Points if they are semi weather proof so they can stay in the guardian if needed.
16 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
>>
Realizing drying time is 50% of the key to crisp lines. Got lucky with a color blind from what I did but it wasn't what I intended.
>>
Wood dye will show the grain, you can get powdered mixes cheaper than colored stain. Coat with exterior spar urethane to protect it from UV.
>>
99% chance I strip this guy and get some finer tipped brushes. I am getting a lot better each night of work.
>>
People who see my little half done dolls compliment them. I think this might be some sort of hobby maxing.
>>
>>2987082
Glow in the dark flakes

why didnt anyone tell me windows make plant killing solar death rays?
lost like half of my sprouts. I assumed it was because I was using the 30 cent seed packs but then i realized only my shaded plants made it.
fuck guys you need to tell me about these things.
what else is going to ruin my vegetable garden crops? lucky I planted way more than I needed but I think I lost the ones I wanted the most.
8 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
>>
Try thermally insulating the pot from the window sill and keeping the pot shaded. Also Neem oil for pest control.
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>>2985044
Why don't you try to live on a windowsill in direct sunlight all day and see how it feels?
>>
>>2985044
What floor is the window on? How many hours of direct sunlight does it get? That's the question here. Seedlings need shade and soft ground, when your veggies grow actual stalks, move them to a sunnier place(6 hours of direct sunlight or so)You should water with warm/room temp water as well. Try covering the earth at least around the root so it doesn't dry there if yours are drying from the roots up.
>>2988131 bad comparison, sunbathing is awesome
>>
>>2988127
Based. Thanks.
I think my problem was pot size on multiple levels.

Also possibly way over watering.
>>2988202
Idk when I was a kid it seemed simple but now I realize a lot of wisdom must have been going into planting.
>>
>>2985049
Fpbp

File: Slide1.jpg (954 KB, 2667x1500)
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Hello again anons, you've helped me through a few projects and I'm back for more.

This time I'm trying to identify which of the indicated framing members A through G in the next few pictures (i think i've got 14 total to give the full picture) are STRUCTURAL vs NON-STRUCTURAL. As usual, I will not take anyone's word on here as gospel, but I'm interested in collecting information and opinions.

up front, I'm of the opinion that A should be left alone, B, C, D, and F are non-structural bracing that was only put there to aid in construction, and for the long diagonal boys E and G I'm really unsure (but leaning toward non-structural).

Finally, there's the long catwalk along the middle - i'm of the opinion that it's only there as an aid to walking around, and can be replaced with blocking in the joist bays.

My goal is just getting this shit out of the way while I improve this space and get some basic flooring laid down (just half-inch OSB for now) so i can store shit without having to balance on joists, which I've already been making great progress on. thanks in advance.
23 replies and 15 images omitted. Click here to view.
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>>2987820
is that what this is supposed to be?

yeah i agree, these are off-the-shelf plans (literally they were picked out of Southern Living Magazine by the original couple who had the place built), so I know they're very generalized. I actually like this place and don't want to fuck it up.

After further review I don't feel like there are enough features to stop the ridge from sagging (particularly at that hip where the other roof comes in), but I want to get some closer photos of how the joists are attached, as maybe they're set up in tension and i'd feel a bit better.
>>
>>2987713
That’s because it’s a ridge board, not a ridge beam.
>>
>>2988048
Yes, it should have some vertical supports or at the very least be supported at the gables. In the past these laminated ones were seen as magically strong and used for like 24’ unsupported span but definitely not intended to be floating
>>
>>2987377
Ok I am by no means an expert but here's what I've noticed reading through the whole thread.
>the triple lam on the south side roof in the plans
Purlins are used to split the rafter span if on the bottom of the rafters and split sheathing span if on top. Seeing as the gable of your garage volume intersects the main house volume on the south side, they may be to split the span of the valley rafters which are necessarily longer than the common rafters. Or they use thicker rafters. I would check this area.
>north side purlins/skylight support
Purlin walls are not typical in skylight framing, it should just have a header and be boxed like any other windows
>single 2x12 ridge beam
Not structural since you have ceiling joists used as rafter ties, but before you put the floor in I would double check your attic entry has proper double boxed framing, since it cuts the intersecting rafter ties.
>the actual boards you asked about
They are not structural, delete them
Lastly,
>East facing corner windows
Rise and shine early bird
Again no qualifying certs I'm just very interested in roof framing. Best of luck with your project anon
>>
>>2987820
Iktf

File: FHA.png (422 KB, 628x614)
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How do I become an FHA Appraiser?

Seems unclear. You take some courses, pass some tests, then IIRC in CA you must do 1000hrs of "pre-Appraiser" work under an existing FHA Cert Appraiser.

Is that work paid and WTF is it, and how do I find a guy? No butt-sexx jokes please.

Is it doing the grunt repetitive type work for him? Basically doing most of the Appraisal for him to rubber-stamp?

I hear "The Biz" really went to shit, do to something about "Appraisal Management Companies" middle-men that banks use that have created a "race to the bottom", but I still want to check it out for my own weird reasons.

I'm a retired carpenter, BTW.

PS-AFAIK FHA attic and crawl inspection is 99% "head and shoulders" if that.
>>
>>2988426
Bump

File: door open wide.jpg (735 KB, 1500x2000)
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I installed a door to the kitchen in this old house.

The door was laying around with no hinges, so all I did was buy new hinges and install it in place.

When you turn the knob, it opens itself up to pic related. It closes and holds, but there is a distinct resistance as I try to close it.

I have more pics of the hinges and all the door gaps, will post ITT.

Any ideas what is wrong here?
12 replies and 4 images omitted. Click here to view.
>>
File: shifted house.jpg (1.49 MB, 3004x2000)
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Checking for squareness.

Shit. No good.
>>
File: trim rubbing.jpg (850 KB, 1500x2000)
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>>2988315
Good call on this. Definitely is catching the trip at the very tip of the interior top corner of the door. That explains part of the resistance in closing it, no doubt.

I figure the out of square door frame probably has more to do with the door opening on its own.

Should I just hope the house eventually shifts back?
>>
>>2988374

you'd figure wrong.

that thin trim piece on the frame, remove and reattach with proper clearance if you have the tools and skill, cut or shave it if you don't.

im not gonna try and explain too much if the physics aren't clear to you, but that is causing the door to open on its own as well. It's pushing outwards on the door when there's contact in addition to providing resistance when it closes. the house isn't "gonna just shift back"

what fuckin world do you live in where blind hope is a coherent strategy? yikes

just gonna take this moment to call everyone else dumb one more time, it's really what this place is useful for.
>>
>>2988410
It's hitting the stop molding exactly as stated.
>>
>>2988282
Especially if it's composite

I have to draw a huge fabric pattern on a massive paper board sheet on the floor. I have chronic pain everywhere, so bending or crawling will be an issue. Do you have any recommendations or ideas for a product I can use to control a pencil on the floor at standing height i.e. theres poles for chalk
>>
Yep. A yardstick and some duct tape.
>>
>>2988370
Hang board on wall.
>>
>>2988404
Exactly


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