I have hard well water, even with a 5 micron whole house filter and an iron filter, the water still doesn't taste good, and clogs my fridge filter quickly.im looking for a decent reverse osmosis filtration system such as pic related.recommend me something. im not paying for water delivery.
>>2892008Filters are not cheap. Membrane life depends on conditions the last place we had ro we had a TDS of near 400 and would change the membrane yearly. Keep an eye on tds when it gets to a number you dont like, change the filter. Tons of people run R/O to their fridge.
I got the APEC RO-90 for like $150 on sale, it's currently 208$ on amazonI'm happy with it, it doesn't include remineralization but that's probably dumb and gayi take salt supplements and also salt my water/food generally>>2892037the filter set replacement is a LOT cheaper than buying spring water...the estimated yearly replacement of big three stage filters is anuual for $30-50the two post filters are estimated 3-5 years and cost the sameBuying gallons of spring water was costing me about $20 a week, just for drinking/cookingplus the annoyance of moving around 16 gallons weeklything has paid for itself in a couple months easily
>>2892067i should point out I also have a seperate water softener on the house which does an amazing job so these filters aren't working hard at allI was mostly concerned about pharmacheticals and chemical contaminents that softeners generally miss>>2891101you should consider getting a water softener to protect all your plumbing fixtures and improve general water they're fairly easy to install, super low maintanence, and can be found cheaply
>>2892068and since you have a well, you don't need to care about the chemicals as much as those on city wateryou can get a water softener, see how you like the water from therethen try a standard gravity carbon water filter, I've heard from people that they like them and they do decent volume to cover on demand useor get a gay brita bitcher thing and spend absurd money on those filtersthe harder your water is the more money you're gonna spend on filters for RO/pitchers/gravityit'll pay for itself on that metric alonethink that's it. i'll stop responding to myself now
>>2892067No argument from me on that. R/O is much cheaper than buying water. Membrane is not cheap $100+ depending on manufacturer and grade. Glad to have a well now and not need R/O. We use the big blue 3 filter setup from Apec, change filters every 6 months and call it good.
>decades old obsolete beaten-up measuring instrument that has never once been tested whether it's still accurate but made by a reputable Western company>$200vs>brand new state-of-the-art instrument, guaranteed to be accurate enough for your purposes but generic chink shit>$50Which way gentlemen of unspecified color?
>>2887310starrett became trash shit already 20 years ago. its a disgrace to the pride it once was. i have a set of new digital calipers from 2005 that are marked starrett shengen hecho in china. ordered them new from msc then and was so mad i kept them as a reminder to getting bilked
>>2886998The hallmark of precision mechanical tools, before muh meme japan/germany, belonged to Swiss Made.
>Some mitutoyo calipers for sale in a local online auction that ended tonight. >Oh hell yeah! >Add to watch list. >Almost time for lot to close.>Enlarge pictures to look at them more closely.>Notice they're metric.No thanks.
>>2886969i was using a micrometer that said made in the ussr at my last job in Australia
>>2887064i also made things in both metric and imperial in Australia
My brother put an offer in on this house and it's got this garage. We're wondering how difficult/expensive it'd be to raise the roof 3-4 feet so that we could turn the loft into a studio.I'm assuming that since it's already half cinderblock and the roof is basically just sitting on top it wouldn't be that difficult.I've never done framing but is this all it would be?>cut 4 of the studs and put jacks under them>cut the rest of the studs and jack it up level>Put extensions under the studs and double half of them, or just replace them entirely>extend the existing electrical, run water lines for a kitchenette and bathroom>frame out an exterior door , windows and outside stairs>fill in the sidingComment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>2891861This is the answer. I knew a guy who added a 2nd story to his house this way, and my dad was considering doing it to his house before my mom talked some sense into him about how a new staircase made no sense for two retired people. The old roof goes, and you build up on the foundation from there.
>>28918613rd this. Whatever the roof is made of, it’s already nearing the end of its lifespan looking at the sag. It is 99% likely to be cheaper to re-do it because you’d need to rent multiple cranes or hydraulic jacks for probably multiple days and retrofit it with electrical, plumbing etc. For new it’s just a day of demolishing, a day of brick work/framing and then a day of roofing
>>2891686I would slash it around the top like a tree so it could be jacked up by the top plates or incrementally shimmed to the new height. I've moved house beam joists to level floors. I've shimmed and moved around countertops. You have a lot of weight in that roof. If you were to move this, you need to temporarily secure the side that isn't being raised. We use a lot of temporary walls in remodeling projects. The important thing is to ensure that you're eliminating the possibility of the weight sliding away from you.
>>2891688Good lord, that sag. Remove and replace the roof. I'm going to do the same thing to my garage, which was constructed in the mid 1950's with leftover materials.If I were in your situation, I would:>disassemble existing roof and wood wall>install new floor joists, at least 2x10's. You can leave the existing 2x6's in place.>build upstairs wall to at least 4ft at lowest point>put a window or two in>use ridge beam style roof to maximize available space - consider skylights too>cover with non-ugly siding or cedar shingles>do NOT install an upstairs exterior door w/ stairs - it will attract attention and there is already a door downstairs.>>2891708Consider this, anon. You will certainly have no issue getting a permit to replace the roof on the garage, but as far as the permit/inspection stuff goes, I would tell them about replacing the roof and *nothing* more. Once the new roof is installed, inspected, and the permit closed, only then should you start on the improvements that will make it a studio. Before that, ONLY frame/sheath the walls and rebuild the roof. Do not do anything that would suggest you plan to use that space for more than storage.Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>2891998this is what I was looking for, thanks anon
Why do easterneuro commiblocks always have these green/blue + white walls? Is it really to camouflage mold like many say?
>>2889079I lived in a commie block like OP pic. Two colors just look better than 1. Also it was always clean, I suppose it's easy to clean. I'm not sure but white part isn't really a paint but rather plaster. Wasting paint on whole wall would be luxury for soviets lol
The US military, NASA, and other government agencies were enamored with a similar bluish-green color in the middle of the 20th century. I used to see it frequently in science and engineering buildings on college campuses that were built during that period but most have been renovated or torn down.
Disney World's Tomorrowland used it extensively until some time in the 90s when it was converted over to a retro-futurist design.
>>2889220it's not real wood, is brown plastic wood look depressing shit
>>2888763I also think it's for easy cleaning. Here's a greenish one.
While working on a DIY 3D printer, I started wondering if it is possible to connect higher-voltage stepper motors to an Arduino MEGA 2560 + RAMPS 1.4. If so, which method should I choose ?Currently I am using a standard 3D printing kit: 3D Printer Mega 2560 R3 + RAMPS 1.4 control panel + 5pcs A4988 + NEMA 17 Stepper Motors.As a possible solution, I found the MA860H Microstep driver. However, based on the videos I watched, this part is connecting directly to the Arduino MEGA 2560. Therefore, I am looking for a practioner who can definitively answer whether the MA860H Microster driver can be connected to the RAMPS 1.4 pins. If it cannot, then where should X, Y and Z-axis pins be connected ?Do you know of any other MOSFET H-Bridge solutions ? It would be perfect if these solutions are available on e-markets like eBay, Amazon, Aliexpress, and so on. Videos from Youtube are also welcomed.
>>2891711>>2891678how did you two figure out the power needs for your project? I'm working on a small cnc and I am paralysed with what the fuck to buy/make to supply the thing. 12-24v motor, arduino 3 with stepper board & 3 nema 17s. idk am I retarded?
>>2892027120W will run the steppers easily, the rest depends on the spindle, I assume you mean spindle by "motor". It has to have some rated wattage or amps, you add that to the ~100W you have for the steppers. Presumably 240W will run the whole thing if you are building with nema17s, they can't handle anything more than 50-100W cutting load anyway.
>>2892032cheers, you're a good fella. I'm a gearheads by nature so the electrical stuff is magic moon rune nonsense to me.
>>2891618Megatronics had boards for the very purpose, although I cannot recommend them (I have experience with Megatronics v1 and v3). I also encourage you to not cheap out on stepper drivers. The mentioned TMC2209 are quite OK. I do not have access to my current machine at the moment, but I think I use the same?>>2891643Could you tell me what the fuck this janky setup is, so I can avoid it? The way it is built just tells me that the Z axis will vibrate like crazy when driving the X/Y axis...this is not a way to build a machine with a good vibrational profile.Will it print? Probably. Will it be good/fast? Probably not.If we're going retro you should've gone with the "Spray-Paint MDF Mendel90" build. Much more stable. Or could've gone for a Voron Tridex. I really hope you only use that thing to build parts for a better printer, baka.
>>2892027The largest nema 17 motors use maybe 15W each. Make it 30 for inefficient Chinese drivers The arduino like 2W
I live in a commieblock and I'm looking to improve my front door's sound isolation.The door is rated for 36 dB, but I still hear loud footsteps and people talking from the stairwell.What should I use to fill the space between the door frame and the doorway? Everyone just fills it with foam (pic related), but it's not soundproof.Some sources say concrete should be used.
>>2891169add a second door, foam padding on both
>>2891541I would very much like to avoid putting in a second door.
>>2891169nothing you can do will deaden the sound.
>>2891363That sounds reasonable. If you are having difficulty buying small quantities of mineral wool from building materials distributors, you can buy seed starting cubes made of rock/mineral wool.If the wall directly adjacent to the door is solid concrete, better performance could be achieved by grouting the frame solid since density attenuates airborne noise (but not impact noise).
>>2892033Also, wanted to add that the best solution would be to add a new framed wall slightly offset from the existing wall on the inside as in pic related, which overlaps the door frame (gap with acoustic caulking at joint).We're running into diminishing returns though, since probably there's no acoustical isolation between the outside and inside floors.
What type of drywall is this? It looks like plywood with a thin layer of drywall
>>2891528On the ceiling? No, that's just regular drywall. Can't see from the shitty pic but it looks like water has caused the paper to separate from the gypsum.
>>2891586It's actually plywood.
It looks like they applied a thin layer of plaster + paint, or a thick layer of paint directly to the plywood. Probably wasn't primed properly and moisture caused delamination.
This guy is building a real life version of one of those characters from that robot cartoon by the same guys behind digital circus.The craftsmanship on this is Impressive, disturbing, and makes me uncomfortable.[spoiler]I kind of wanna hug it[/spoiler]
you ARE validyou ARE feminineyou ARE passingyou ARE a real woman, OP
>>2888788I want her to crush my skull with her legs
>>2889513he's fucking it isn't he?
>>2889513how did this guy make his fortune? that's what i wanna knowi need more fuckiong capital
>>2891896i know what you mean
I don't see any carpentry/woodwork general so making a thread. I want to do a multipurpose cabinet on wheels out of pine. it doesn't have to look professional but it needs to do the job. it's a stand for a PC case and other things. I want to mount it on 4 good wheels, it should be about 1.5m-2m tall (60-80 inches) and handle weight of around 40-50kg max (90-110 pounds). half of the weight will be directly on the base, rest will stay on 4 columns going around the PC. a bit above the PC will start the second half of the cabinet(or whatever to call it) that should handle the other half of the weight. the side doors of the PC case should remain accessible, that's why there's columns not obstructing the view. I need some tutorials or help on what techniques to use to make it sturdy and solid. by grabbing the middle, probably with a handle, it should all move on those wheels without being ripped apart. I want the thing to feel strong. are those metal connectors and glue going to be enough? I worry that 4 columns are just not going to handle grabbing 20kg by a handle and moving the cart. I might opt into some metal parts but I don't have the tools and space for proper metal work. thanks for any tips
>>2891878he literally has a bunch of chisels in the pic
>>2892005you still need a chisel to make small corrections so that's a worthless thing to notice
>>2892006yeah but whats your assertion based on
>>2892007nta just pointing that out
>>2891864Thanks, I really appreciated and really served me.Yay!
sawn thread
>>2891242thought you said southern yellow
>>2891243It's all the same thing. Southern, white, yellow, loblolly. Black pine is the only one that's noticeably different.
>>2891244why do they deepthroat southern yellow pine for its toughness
>>2891250That's their sexual orientation
>>2890777Does pine always warp?Is there a way to avoid it?
why the FUCK did my power usage spike 4-5x my normal daily usage the 2 days WE WEREN'T AT HOME. NOTHING WAS ON. WHAT THE FUUUUUUCK.
so, u dead?
>>2887401>I live in a trailer and we literally have nothing that stays on except my fridge and me and my wife's computersHeat pump couldn't keep up with the cold so it was using the heating strips and running defrost cycles.
>>2890860He probably uses propane.
>>2887007Refrigerator is failing.
Post the floor plan of your dream house.
>>2891487>I'd probably have the front section as a skylit open living area, kitchen and all that.Both the front and back sections are open air courtyards instead of hallways. I think they had detached kitchens in a separate building as a fire concern though. That's why the back portion has a door leading out.>Then use the back section as the more private part of the homeCorrect. That's how this type of home was lain out.
>>2891450don't need it, its just complicates things that actually has simple solutions..keep it simple, stupid..>walk in line to enter photo booth>see core being rammed by screw driver>magic lights surrounds you>get sent into train again>set free>infiltrates countries you are about to conquer. >problem solved.
>>2891493magic light surrounds jew***
>>2891412I hate it
wonder what japanese pencil houses floor plans look like
While mostly keeping it how it is, that is.I'm kinda intrigued by the idea of keeping the run-down look but trying to make it technically sound (fixing water damage, removing mold).But I guess it's almost impossible because of mold.
>>2889786>b) it’s just TSP which you can get anywhere. It’s the ‘phosphate’ they took out of phosphate-free detergents.Quick caveat on that: make sure that what you get is really TSP. A lot of cleaners will have TSP in big bold letters but will often follow them up with "Phosphate Free" or "Substitute" -- these are not TSP and do not clean as well; some will say they do almost as well, but how almost is almost? Just remember to dump your TSP in the river when you're done with it, your regulatory agencies will be happy that you're feeding the algae blooms for them.
>>2889786a) Concrobium makes a vapor machine so your point is invalid. b) it's not just TSP. Check the MSDS.
>>2889929>make sure that what you get is really TSPThis.Last box of TSP I almost bought was "TSP" in big letters. But in smaller print on the side, "phosphate free".Fuck. That.I want TSP, legit real deal TSP.I want my 1,1,1-trichloroethane back too.
>>2889786https://www.amazon.com/Concrobium-200-620810-Mold-Control-Fogger/dp/B0026SZCCK
>>2889676because of some exotic wood or just the work?
Redpill me on pneumatic vaccum cleaners? How do they compare to electric in terms of power, convenience, efficiency with a 50L 4HP compressor etc? I have 2 corded vaccum cleaners - Henry and Karcher WD2 and a small cordless Makita, but lugging, positioning and maneuvering even something as small as Henry is a chore sometimes (and an 18V Makita is way too weak for any kind of bigger cleaning), wheras a rubber air hose is super convenient and I already have a self-retracting box with a long one installed for dusting stuff around the house
>>2891722Pneumatic vacuums are resilient in the sense that there's no moving parts and you can suck up liquids without a care.But you need a lot more power than a corded vac or central vac to get equivalent suction. So getting something that's actually as good as central vac could be expensive.
>>2891722They take a lot of air to make suction. They have their uses, but will not take the place of a standard corded electric vacuum
>>2891722good for things like sucking up fuel spills or working in explosive environments. a regular electric vacuum will be better for 95% of all other common uses.
>>2891966>good for things like sucking up fuel spills or working in explosive environments. a regular electric vacuum will be better for 95% of all other common uses.I use mine mainly for pulling a vacuum on hydraulic reservoirs, cooling systems, fuel tanks, etc where I need to pull a fitting and replace it without emptying the entire contents.
Im going to be renting an old (1900s) house that the owner will let me buy cheap. Assuming that I'd do a better job than an inspector due to actually living in the house, what should I look for? Things that already need replacing/looked at are gutters, floors, potentially foundation. Utilities have been disconnected for a couple years. According to the owner it got a new breaker and wiring about 10 years ago, and uses septic but has city water. No other real updates besides those and HVAC have been done since the early 00s. Pic rel is a similar looking house
>>2891803I wouldn't doubt that at all. Most of the walls are still lathe and plaster and it didn't look like any of them were ripped open and repaired, and many of the outlets are at really weird places. Thanks for the advice
>>2891652>Assuming that I'd do a better job than an inspector due to actually living in the house, what should I look for?If you have to ask what you need to look for, you won't do a better job.
>>2891652your going to fuck up finding anything and everything.this is s horse hair plaster house and you won't be able to even access and see 90% of what you need.things you can do.check basement for foundation sinking/cracks.(bonus points if it's raining)check the roof/attic for sag, water ingress, or damage.check the shingles, assume they will need replacing.check if the house is considered historic (if it is, run).Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>2891931the inspectors I've seen. he probably do a better job
>>2891652>what should I look for? first thing you need is a booklet that answers that very question in great detaili found one at a thrift store for $2presumably, ebook versions exist; just google what you need
