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File: IMG_8683.jpg (755 KB, 828x1101)
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Get ready for the influx of poorfags buying ender 3s from thrift stores

I bet you feel old now
7 replies omitted. Click here to view.
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>>3000455
It's fine, just never use the heated bed.
>>
>>3000455
There is no way to know it is missing. The sign is on all four sides, but the extinguisher could be out of view of the photo.
>>
>>3000133
They probably hot donated for being absolutely shit. I wouldn't take one of those time vampires for free.
>>
>>3000133
mine works well after several upgrades and a lot of tuning but I've had it for years and the new stuff is 1000 times easier to get good prints out of.
>>
>>3001474
3DTouch
PEI sheet
Double sprocket extruder upgrade

You don't need more to make the original ender 3 usable
I slice with cura's default preset, press start print and it just werks everytime

I want to place a 80x30x45cm fishtank (150kg tops) on a 3.8mm 80cm deep 38mm worktop supported by ikea alex drawer and ikea solid leg (due to 22cm overhang on back). Ai keeps telling me that will cause a micro bend and shatter the glass. Is this true? 2h ago he was telling me how its perfectly fine
14 replies and 3 images omitted. Click here to view.
>>
>>3002441
>be retarded
>use any AI
here I simplified it for you
>>
>>3002650
My AI girlfriend has produced more useful code than the entirety of /g/ combined.
>>
>>3002362
just decorate with something other than a fish tank, it will be a pain in the ass to move it in 7 months anyway
>>
>>3002656
Based AIfu enjoyer
>>
>>3002891
It is 7 months. bruh living is hard ull die in 60-80 years anyway, just kys now :^)

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Has anyone ever replaced a fixed window on their car before? Specifically back window glass.

I had picrel painted and I took the window out because I didn't want it to look like shit with masking lines

I've tried calling multiple glass shops and nobody wants to touch it as the glass is used. I have the glass and new molding so I'm unsure how to proceed. The urethane looks incredibly messy.
9 replies and 3 images omitted. Click here to view.
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>>3002218
>I'm surprised no one will touch it as its not that hard a job.
they want to sell him a new piece of glass. and they don't want to touch the old one in case it's damaged and op blames them when it falls apart.
>>
>>3002225
Most repair joints should have a clause for customer supplies parts somewhere, (they just don't usually warranty the work) just that glass in particular for cars over 30yo tends to become a fair bit more scarce so you end up getting what you've got. Its not even a particularly hard job either, my dad did windscreen fitting for a few years when I was younger and it was so much easier when you've got all the tools and space set up that it gets knocked over in 30minutes and 5 for a wipe down, clean and good to go in an hour or so

I know the whys of course they want to upsell something but here we are in DIY and anon has to fix his own shit the hard way :(
>>
>>3002040
some Pick and Pull have Lock Shops AND glass shops (that shouldn't be scared of used glass)
>>
>>3002218
I wouldn't recommend anyone doing a singular piece of glass get a specialized unitasker tool like these suction cup handles. It simply will not make the 1 job easier, and you can't really use it anywhere else in your life. If you happen to find a pair for a trivial amount of cash, sure. But buying them for more than say, $10 would be a monumental waste of money and just end up being thrown out without any tangible benefit.
>>
>>3002887
10-20 bucks to avoid a pinch point between steel and glass. Depends how much you think your fingers are worth or time off work with severed tendons
They also work really well for moving whitefoods, fridges, freezers and dishwashers. I mean you can bodge up something equivalent with wood and gaff tape if you have to but I'm just suggesting the proper way first

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I'm a older webdev shitter who is looking to switch to a mechanical trade.
Even though they were primarily looking for people with previous work experience in similar fields I actually got invited to an interview for a paid apprenticeship and did well enough, now they want to invite me over again to check my basic manual skills before offering me a contract. (I didn't hide or lie about my background or anything.)
Is there any source I can use to at least gain some very basic knowledge on tools and methods or way to get some practice in? Any tips to prepare for something like this?
Am I about to embarrass myself while young mechanics get to laugh at me?
2 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
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>>3001760
Ok ok I see
As far as baselines or anyway working with engines and metal, as in the things they'll probably ask you to do when they check your manual skills, I think My Mechanics and Watch Wes Work are good. They know what they are doing and tackle projects explaining very clearly what they are doing. Take a look at them on youtube.


I don't know too much about aircraft machinery, though it is very interesting. Stig Aviation is a good channel to get to know just about everything you need before your job, I think
>>
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>>3001761
Thank you anon I'll have a look that looks useful.
I also ordered myself a copy of "Standard Aircraft Handbook for Mechanics and Technicians".
Seems pretty well condensed and retard-proof at first glance, including explanations that seem obvious even to a craftlet like me and surprisingly practical in its contents. Pic related.
>>
>>3001789
Yeah that looks like a solid manual. While I was at it I found a documentary on heavy maintenance of aircraft, hope it helps https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H45vSzyiXH4
>>
Any updates anon ?
>>
>>3001761
holy bot
4chan a dead

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I got a tricky situation. I live in an old row of townhouses that are divided by cement walls on the inside. Last year, the new neighbors replaced the outdoor AC unit. It was old and working, but I assume they wanted something more efficient. It was installed towards the end of last year so it wasn't used. Now that the hot weather is here, there is a problem.
The unit sits where the old one did, on a cement slab close to the property line divided by a fence. When it turns on and is running, I am getting a rhythmic audible pulsing that is traveling up the dividing cement wall between our units. What's really bizarre is that it's the most noticeable on our top floor bathroom, farthest away from the unit itself (but the titled shower/tub is right against that diving wall). As you make your way down to the lower levels of the house, the sound lessens. And in my living room, which is facing the backyard and is closest to the until, its still there but not nearly as bad as it is upstairs. The noise is easier to hear closer to the diving wall, if I put my ear to the wall in the bathroom you'd think their AC was right on the other side. Oddly enough when you go outside to the backyard, its almost not even there.
What are your thoughts on this? The problem here is that this guy has a family and is already cash strapped with kids and a mortgage, he likely can't even afford a tech visit to come out. He may have a 1 yr warranty of the install, but I get the feeling that if I mention this issue to him, unless he sees it as a problem and can hear it himself (and people often have different hearing tolerances), he won't bother fixing it, despite the fact its causing problems on my end. And I still plan to live here a long time.
Is there something I or we can fix ourselves?
10 replies omitted. Click here to view.
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>>2998611
You sound like you're being reasonable, in which case, just go talk to him? Does he seem chill enough to look at it with you? Maybe even bring over a 12 pack to split while you investigate. Also, doesn't sound like you're demanding him fix it right this second, but at some point he will need a maintenance person to come out. Ask him if when he has a person come out, check out why it's vibrating, was it not installed correctly to the pad, etc. Also, depending on your willingness to get this resolved, a maintenance tune-up or whatever they're called are like $80, would it be worth it for you to split it with him and pay $40 to potentially get it resolved?

Also, not sure where you're located, but in FL where we never have to run the heat, AC companies are begging for work, you could potentially get a call like this done for quite a bit cheaper.

Alternatively, you could shoot it with a .22lr.
>>
>>2998611
go talk to him reasonably, man to man
If he's unreasonable have a lawyer send a demand letter
>>
>>2998611
>Is there something I or we can fix ourselves?
small rubber spacers should solve the issue. Talk with the neighbour if he has also felt the vibrations and check the unit together.
They might have not put vibration dampers during installation, or the unit might not be level.
>>
>>2998611
How well built are these dividing walls? An hvac unit shouldn't be producing that much vibration through the entire wall unless the retard has it mounted directly to said wall. Shouldn't even be touching the wall, really. If the rubber vibration isolators you've been recommended don't do the trick, your wall is a piece of shit and begging to crumble.
>>
>>3002587
Does the vibration actually annoy people? I find it kinda soothing, granted that it isn't so bad its knocking shit off of shelves.

File: 20260728_201132[1].jpg (3.03 MB, 4000x3000)
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WTF, ain't the bolt supposed to have THEADS?

or am I retarded this is my first 'safety razor' purchase attempt.

is this worth a million bucks, like a backwards Lincoln on a penny?
10 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
>>
PS-WTF don't these come with industry standard Aggression Rating?

Seems like a brand should have like 5 diff Rating models.
>>
>>3002354
Lrn2Shave. No, I don't think the angle of attack is any different between handles (unless you're talking about sharpness of the blade? I don't think anything less than 'razor sharp' would market well for razors).
>>
>>3002589
seems too aggressive, so I also ordered a dial adjustable.
>>
>>3002590
Huh, things you never knew existed... been shopping around for a new butterfly, looks like Feather makes one with a lever adjust. Might have to try that.
>>
>>3001701
What does the rest of the razor look like? If it's a butterfly, I could see this being some sort of retainer to keep the blade in place while you fiddle with the wings

File: pretty fuggen wet.png (956 KB, 999x754)
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Welcome to woodworking general, wet red cedar edition. Here we discuss the working of wood and the tools and techniques of working wood. So far we tend to be mostly hand tool folk with a slant towards cabinetry and carving but all are welcome and we have some capable power tool folk amount our ranks. General carpentry question such as framing/decking/general construction seems to get a better response in the /qtddtot/ or /sqt/.

Old thread >>2980606

The Essential /wwg/ library.
Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking, gives you everything you need and shows you how to do it multiple ways from hand tools to power tools and gives you the knowledge to determine which is best, and then he teaches you how to apply what you learned.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1561588261

Chris Pye wrote the book on carviing and keeps on writing them.
https://www.chrispye-woodcarving.com/

The eastern tradtion, Japanese Woodworking Tools: Their Tradition, Spirit and Use by Toshio Odate
https://www.amazon.com/dp/0941936465

Leonard Lee The Complete Guide to Sharpeninig, how to sharpen most everything.

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
315 replies and 103 images omitted. Click here to view.
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>>3003708
>Are there any good sites with known free plans?
hundreds anon, did you try typing "free woodworking plans" into a search engine?
>>
>>3003628
I refuse to believe mechanical polishing is a substitute for poor finishing technique. It's an extra waste of abrasives and time, and much more time than was saved during prep. Thin coats with correct curing durations better ensures even coverage. To me, the finish should integrate with the work. When you're doing things right, it will appear as though you haven't done anything at all.

The best finishers and painters tend to do more work than expected. That's prep, process, and knowledge base and not just guess and correct. Some pieces deserve 100 coats. Some work deserves a thick ass coat or two of polyshades to lipstick up the pig and be done with it.
>>
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>>3003708
>but they want me to pay for the cut list
they shared the BOM and outer dimensions, what more do you need? Figuring this out by yourself is a good exercise
>>
>>3002896
do you have any proof of work calculations or did you just wing it?
>>
is it dumb to use a plunge Touter to make mortise and tenon joints or is there a better way?

File: OIP-1932773719.jpg (24 KB, 474x364)
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>Only 10% the space of a regular fridge, still uses half the power or more.
Post inefficient appliances that shouldn't exist.
70 replies and 11 images omitted. Click here to view.
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>>3001531
Yeah, I went years without really having anything either, only been in this house a little more than a year. Sadly it's my parents' house that I'm only in while I go back to school for a couple of years so I'll be back to renting and having no work area before too long. (Though I'm hoping I can at least rent a townhouse or duplex with a garage, I kinda have to have one to keep my bikes secure at the very least.)
>>
>>2997796
>buy very expensive cooler like Yeti
Retard, Yeti’s are dogshit, Coleman coolers work fine as long as it’s a model like https://www.coleman.com/coolers-drinkware/coolers/hard-coolers/chiller-48-quart-cooler/SAP_2160729.html
>handles don’t have gay “flip on, flip off” shit to get in the way and break, they’re just solid plastic
>lid seals with a plastic indent
>rest of the cooler is solid plastic
obviously this one has thinner walls, but I’m sure you could find a older model with thicker walls and lid.
>>
>>3001695
Have you tried extending the efficiency of your yeti by putting it in a giant clay pot?
>>
>>2999429
specifically for hiding said beverages
I always just drank my shit warm
t. alkie
>>
>>3001504
based Rainieeeeeer Beeeeeer enjoyer

File: file.png (335 KB, 480x319)
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So I am inheriting my grandmother's house
Built in 1972, has a pole barn style shop in the back that my grandfather built, house is mostly original. Appliances are from the 1970s lol
Nevertheless, what should I be mindful of in an early 70s house like this?
Moderately good with tools
38 replies and 8 images omitted. Click here to view.
>>
> Typical profit margins on a flip are 25 percent. That is lower then it has been because all the cheaper homes, the ones that really benefit from flipping, are tied up.
According to whom?
> No one can afford more expensive homes, so trying to sell them for EVEN MORE within a year of you buying them is retarded.
It's happening more than you think. The housing supply is so low people are willing to pay tens of thousands, even hundreds of thousands, over asking.
> Almost no one is making $100K on a flip. We are talking lottery odds here. It ain't 2007 anymore, grandpa. Interest rates are high, construction costs are through the roof,
Me and my business partners have been making well over six figures on flips since COVID. We didn't win the lottery; we put in the work to study markets, crunch data, acquire properties no one thought to act on, and secure manpower and resources at afford prices.
>trump busy fucking the economy in the ass without lube.
TDS
>Ain't no one got the coins to drop an extra $100k on some dogshit flip.
Again, the supply is so low people in certain markets are ready and willing to pay over asking. Late-blooming Gen-Xers and Millennials are trying to start families, and they need the space.
>>
I dunno your financial status but kf its a budget issue id focus on roof, foundation and furnace. I do hone renos and most young ppl ignore these things bc it doesnt have the flash that theyre looking for but these are the things that can seriously mess up your house if they fail. The esthetic upgrades can come in time
>>
>>2998567
>>3000226
What if you put additives in the concrete foundation during mixing so it repels water? Is that feasible or is it too expensive?
What about using a stone foundation?
>>
>>2998478
Nobody said asbestos didn’t work.
Also, lead paint is excellent stuff.

Next big thing will be Radon Gas, primarily in basements.
>>
>>3002909
radon is a big nothingburger

File: Cracks.jpg (104 KB, 760x506)
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My concrete driveway is pretty ancient. Some of the slabs have ~1.25" gaps between them and some cracks that are likely are likely too big for caulk type sealant. Is there any decent options for filling the larger cracks / gaps to stop constantly fighting weeds and help avoid moisture retention to try to milk some more life from it?
5 replies omitted. Click here to view.
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>some cracks that are likely are likely too big for caulk
Maybe for your caulk
>>
>>3001640
*try to keep the caulk that thick. Backer rod should be thicker than the crack.
>>
>>3001393
>concrete driveway
Found your problem. Rip that out and replace with gravel.
>>
>>3001393
dig out the loose pits, grind the sharp corners, use some kind of concrete to concrete bonding adhesive/wash and then pour self leveling self compacting concrete mix into the gaps. overfill them by a bit, wait for it to cure for a week or two, then grind them flat and polish the whole surface. then seal.
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>>3002901
> pour self leveling self compacting concrete mix into the gaps
I did something similar, but I found the self levelling had sand in it that prevented penetrating the crack, so I tried a patch compound for levelling two eneven areas or transitions… it didn’t have any sand and worked great (about as well as the floor leveller) but with deeper pen. into the crack.

File: PXL_20260715_182340869.MP.jpg (1.75 MB, 3072x4080)
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So I've decided to replace my carpet with hardwood floors. Taking care of the tack strips have been easy with a spade shovel, however there is some nails that secured in that get left behind. They are easy to get out, however some of them chip the concrete when I remove them. Should I just saw them down so that it's flush? Or is it no big deal to just patch the holes that get created?

Sorry if this is a no brainer I'm a noob.
7 replies omitted. Click here to view.
>>
Those little chips aren't going to have any effect on a wood/vinyl plank floor. But if it's really bothering you, just go buy a bag of tile grout, mix it up, and fill them in using a putty knife.
>>
test
>>
>>2999852
Remove them, remove the dust/sand from the chip/hole and patch it with some fine mortar
>>
>>2999852
Just pull the nails out . If it breakesm whack it with a hammer a couple of times to make it flush with th concrete. There is not problem having divets int othe concrete , it's not going to be an issue - you are going to be laying a membrane on it anyway.
>>
>>2999852
pull them all out, also pull out the baseboards. then self level the floor with self leveling concrete/mortar mix before laying out new hardwood, and use urethane hardwood flooring adhesive when putting hardwood flooring down.

Worked all winter to heat the house (heat pump) although I was rather expensive, $250 bills vs $60-$70 without it running the last couple months.

Anyway, I tried to start it to cool since its raining is very humid and it wouldn't run so...

>Inside unit was running, blowing air, sending 24v signal
>Confirmed capacitor was good
>Confirmed the 240v (Had to replace breaker in main panel, it was kinda working kinda not.)
>Fan on outside unit would turn on but not compressor
>Replaced contractor even though it seemed good
>Fan will run but compressor just hums and tries to trips the breaker
>Replace capacitor
>Breaker trips immediately

So, all I can figure is the compressor is locked down? Worth trying a hard start kit or do I need to look into some window shakers? Or $125 to have a "pro" come out, tell me what I already know and try to sell me a new system.
6 replies omitted. Click here to view.
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Does anybody know which books would be the "bible" for diy or doing HVAC professionally? Thank you for your time.
>>
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>>2992977
>>Breaker trips immediately
Happened to me. Just check the incoming power terminal to the chassis ground on the multimeter set to ohmmeter. If you get a 0-5 ohms then the compressor is shorted to ground and you need a new unit because the refrigerant is now fucked along with the compressor. Mine melted the wiring harness.
>>
>>2992977
is it out of refrigerant? have you actually checked to make sure its not leaking? would suck to do all this work and find out your system has been trying to compress air and burning itself out
>>
>>2992977
You need to check the amp draw go buy a shit clamp meter from harbor freight give us the amp draw when t come on ohms the wires themselves to ground sometimes the can get a rub in them check the actuall voltage at the contacter do you have the correct voltage
>>
Here\s my collection of books (requires 7zip):
https://files.catbox.moe/d6pbpq.7z

The link says ads.php but it works and is a fantastic resource.
https://libgen.li/ads.php?md5=3553b55c5b790a8a02924606b350f01f

HVAC master class (open with torrent client, if you don't know what that is see /t/ ):
magnet:?xt=urn:btih:07BD84333801649ECD17436B44AF54B454F3238C&dn=Udemy - HVAC MASTER CLASS%3A HVAC AIR DISTRIBUTION DESIGN&tr=udp%3A%2F%2Ftracker.opentrackr.org%3A1337&tr=udp%3A%2F%2Fopen.stealth.si%3A80%2Fannounce&tr=udp%3A%2F%2Ftracker.torrent.eu.org%3A451%2Fannounce&tr=udp%3A%2F%2Ftracker.bittor.pw%3A1337%2Fannounce&tr=udp%3A%2F%2Fpublic.popcorn-tracker.org%3A6969%2Fannounce&tr=udp%3A%2F%2Ftracker.dler.org%3A6969%2Fannounce&tr=udp%3A%2F%2Fexodus.desync.com%3A6969&tr=udp%3A%2F%2Fopen.demonii.com%3A1337%2Fannounce&tr=udp%3A%2F%2Fglotorrents.pw%3A6969%2Fannounce&tr=udp%3A%2F%2Ftracker.coppersurfer.tk%3A6969&tr=udp%3A%2F%2Ftorrent.gresille.org%3A80%2Fannounce&tr=udp%3A%2F%2Fp4p.arenabg.com%3A1337&tr=udp%3A%2F%2Ftracker.internetwarriors.net%3A1337

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will I be automatically rat-fucked to death by "Asbestos" issue on any pre-1969 house by the Build Dept and Home Insurance, etc, the second they find any remodeling is being done?

I worked on a big apts rehab in San Mateo decades ago and it was a big stink about asbestos in the drywall mud. You could drive a nail in but big fine if you pulled one out, and they had fags going around asking "could I borrow a hammer just for sec to pull a nail out of the wall?" to try and trip a Nigger up.

Then I worked for some wealthy people on houses build prior to 1969, but wealthy don't pull permits or allow Govt on their property. That is for little people.

This "handyman special" lists "asbestos" under "building materials" and could be mud or ceiling tiles, or siding or WTF knows....

but its the ONLY such house where I've noticed asbestos called out in Listing. Is it just the 1 in a 1,000,000 dumb enough to be honest RE Agent?

Is "asbestos" routinely flagged for any permit on any house older than 1969 similar to Lead Paint?

Is it 99% "don't ask, don't tell, shoot, shovel and shutup"?
https://www.zillow.com/homedetails/401-N-Vine-Ave-Cleveland-OK-74020/86097252_zpid/
7 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
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>>3002486
interesting, what State?

I'd be tempted to basically "do it right" but then drive to a dump 3 dumps away and forget to mention the A-word and if anyone asks its "wet sheetrock and ceiling tiles" or some shit.

Or roll it up in carpet like the Mob disposing of body.
>>
>>3002495
Believe it or not, Commiefornia. This varies by county here though. I'm in a red county where the population is almost as low as the average IQ and all of the locals have the same grandparents if you check far enough back.

So I called up the local air quality management district and asked how disposal was handled. We discussed what I was doing and that I was the owner/occupier of the unit. They said well, you can remove it however you want as the laws don't apply to you but this is how you should do it. I also watched some videos*. They said disposal was another matter. This said the local dump takes the stuff and to talk to them.

I called the dump and they said double bag it, make sure the bags have zero holes, and tape them shut. Air tight. Bring it to the normal entrance but tell the staff it is asbestos contaminated construction debris. I did just that, they had me pull out of the line, they inspected the bags, said they were sealed well enough, and changed me the minimum dump fee. They unloaded the stuff by hand, normally they expect you to drive to the tip area and unload everything yourself, and put it in a big dumpster they had set aside full of similar taped up garbage bags.

*Some of the videos were like, take this tiny squirt bottle and make the tiles ever so slightly damp. I said fuck that and poured a bucket of soapy water on the floor. Can't put fibers in the air if its underwater, can it? I already had a nice HEPA full face mask because they are much easier to breath in. The disposable Tyvek suit was $12. The biggest expense was the garbage bags and the 55 gallon can (not 65 like I said before).
>>
>>3002486
>Not owner/occupiers of single-family homes. Check that.
It's in the past.
The info you have is good, but where I live the city has this net of tight ass regulations, despite it being kind of ghetto.

To be clear, I live in Hamilton OH (Butler county), commute into Mason OH (Warren co). Cincinnati (Hamilton co) is the MSA, but local govts have a lot of say.

The place I bought in 2025, there were 0 permits, 0 zoning variances in thet past 119 years. If that sounds suspicious...
The big issue was the driveway being out of spec, so I dove into local ordinances.

The offer was contingent city planning (probably a yes) -and- on asbestos & lead paint testing, because I had intentions to remodel the entire place. Move walls, move bathrooms, change the exterior footprint, etc.
The owners were righteous (literal), and understood that the testing might reveal a huge 'hidden' cost, so they were willing to go half-in via a discount.

This was through an FHA 203k loan, so I was able to 'roll renovation costs' into the loan. Like, simplifying it to round numbers, 40K to have a licensed company do the asbestos work. So the seller took 20K off the price, and I asked the bank for the original amount +20K. Still more than the original price, but it's like I'm only getting half-boned. Maybe the best you can expect?


Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>
But that fear of 'being raped' is real. Along the way, everyone, people at the bank, and esp. city govt people, were like skittish animals.
I'm convinced that it only worked out because the proposed changes were intrusive enough that I had to bring in an engineering firm.
So, success from, a combination of the owner being agreeable, having an estimate from a licensed remediation company, and having building plans from a local firm.
When I say skittish I mean almost like the city people couldn't interpret their own regulations (driveway shit), but at the end of the paperwork chain they saw a PE stamp for the overall plan, so they were on board.

That initial work was just removal, no new material installed, not fixing any damage, etc. But after the "hazardous material" was gone, I kind of had a clean slate.
I still had to bring in an electrician & plumber (licensed, willing to deal w/ permits), but I was able to do basically everything else myself. I still had a company come in to do the roof, so they could bang it out in two days vs. me doing it over two weeks.

BUT: bottom line from my experience, asbestos is a bogey-man. So easy to get caught up with extra effort, extra expense.
>>
>>3002443
asbestos is regulated by OSHA for the most part, if you plan to do work involving asbestos yourself there should be no regulations, but if you have a contractor do any work that may disturb asbestos it's going to be fucking expensive

>I want my home to look like a McDonald's
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>>3002247
You trying to beat JamesOn Curry's record?
>>
>>3002245
>what if we let them in, we just segregate them?
That's how America got in the mess it's in today.
>>
>>3002835
Who said anything about keeping them? They work in the mines until they die, then their skeleton is used to reinforce the catacombs.
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>>3002240
You guys got the same shit going on over there?
Can't choose who you (don't) do business with?
Thats sort of quintessential for a contract.
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>>3002871
I keep trying to explain it to the zoomies. They seem to think globalism is the same thing as capitalism. Globalism is international monopolistic fascism infused with faggotry and lots of niggers.

File: picnotmine.jpg (1.17 MB, 3024x4032)
1.17 MB JPG
How would I go about replacing old plug in wires with only two small prongs like picrel? I collect a lot of vintage tech and I'm never too sure how safe these things are.
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>>3002334
I find the notion that if you have leaky insulation in motorwindings you can just, somehow, slide a piece of heat shrink all the way in there, magically without at least partially unwinding and causing even more issues.
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>>3002342
*equally amusing
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>>3002333
>wagos instead of soldering
Only a jew bot would suggest soldering to someone who can't figure out how a 2-prong power cord works.
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>>3001993
Unscrew the back of the fan. The cable should be held with two small screws - unscrew them. Now take a brand new wire and plug and do the reverse procedure.
Alternative - go to the store and buy a plug. Cut the cable bellow the old plug, shave off some insualtion with an utility knife and attach the new plug.
Every hardware store sells replacement plugs and cable.
>>
When I have things like old fans that I throw out I always cut the cords off and sometimes save a couple. They're handy for things like this. It's a sort of recycling I suppose, and cutting the cords off will help deter people from wanting to tinker with shit and start a fire with something that I threw out for a reason.


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