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File: ladder-wheels.png (231 KB, 466x1040)
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Ladder wheels so you can move your ladder around!
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You give too much credit. This is MSpaint level faggotry.
Actually it's paint.net faggot
You mad princess
Going to post a pic of your muscles like captain taint licker did
My 75yr old dad would climb right up that without a moment of hesitation.

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I'm in Finland and all houses are required to have like 30cm of foam. Houses in the countryside are also wood famed. Idk why people here say that's an American thing.
That's why we're also required to have forced air ventilation running 24/7 with heat exchangers nowadays. It makes winters a dry hell in new apartments. Indoor humidity hovers around 10% on very cold days. But I guess its better than mold.
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>Idk why people here say that's an American thing
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This person smugly wrote this from Europe and then turns around and writers about how they have no more land to build on and wonder why a block house costs $1mil
Depends on the foam. Some foam is shit, while other foam is practically armor. I'd be fine with some sorts.

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I have seen several videos of people using them. also looked into buying them online. at $300 and up, I just decided I would build one.
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Im not that anon but seriously who do you think you are you fucking subhuman jewish niggerlover. Go back to plebbut you degenerate tranny and dilate in the dilation ccircke (formerly circlewanking) you ffucking
Fuck you scum, you prbably rape the sheeps that you shear you degenerate tranny subhuman scum, go fucking dilate you degenerate.
Hell is the place you cant say nigger and will be tortured and starved to death daily for being an antisemite. Hell is ruled by the jew, theiy are the synagogue of satan.
fag samefagger
Nigger what? I never claimed to be three different guys i just had to make three different comments to let out my hate for this piece of tranny faggot dei dilated niggerloving scum

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Boring ass domestic question I could just google.

What's the best most cheapest handheld vacuum?
Whichever one goes with the battery format you have selected.
I have the 18V Makita and it's good. Costs about $20 + ~$20 for a battery.
Of course you also have to buy a charger if you don't have Makita tools, then it's another $50 and it's not worth it anymore.
>What's the best most cheapest handheld vacuum?
there isn't one.

cheap will be crap.
best will be expensive.
As to I and I use it daily. I collect corded shop vacs then post them anywhere I expect to vacuum but that little fucker is insanely handy.

If you 3D print the nozzles, dust collectors for drilling and much more deserve a look.
doesn't matter. they literally all come from the same chink factory

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I have an old ass vacuum breaker on my hose bib, probably been there 15-20 years, way before I bought the house. it's leaking water from the top so I want to get it off. I took a pair of locking pliars to it, but I can't seem to get it off. I can turn it, and I have turned it in the off direction around 3 revolutions but it's SO hard, I have to put my body weight onto the wrench. I'm afraid I'm going to break my damn hose bib trying to get it off. any advice? are they threaded backwards and I'm tightening the shit out of it? so weird.
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like I said here >>2786763 water is gay.
>water is gay
less gay than the turd pipe side of things
plumbing is easy if you remember the rules
>hot on the left
>cold on the right
>don't look up with your mouth open
>shit doesn't run uphill
>all bosses are assholes
>payday's on friday
That one looks shitty because you have no goddamn pipe. Go in and cut that bitch off and add some extra pipe so when the next ball valve fails and is seized in place 15 years down the line, you can chop it off and easily add a new one from the outside. Your future self will love you.

You don’t like swapping plumbing parts under pressure like a real man?

That shit looks like it’s buried in the bricks.
>it's leaking from the valve now,
Replace the rubber parts inside. A flat rubber washer stops leaks coming out the hose area, an o ring stops leaks coming out the handle. Turn off the water before doing this.
>Go in and cut that bitch off and add some extra pipe so when the next ball valve fails and is seized in place 15 years down the line, you can chop it off and easily add a new one from the outside. Your future self will love you.

I do and it works gloriously. I also add gate valves if not previously present so I can isolate subsections of my home and shops for damage control without needing to shut down my system.

Apparently in the frontier days settlers couldn't find enough timber or stone to make homes in Nebraska so they developed a method for building houses that involved covering rectangular straw bales with lime plaster

From what I read, the straw itself acts itself as an insulator and a surface through which the hardened lime cast forms into solid loadbearing walls around the bale.

Straw itself does not degrade like hay and if done properly it should be next to impossible to set on fire due to the fire-retardant properties of lime plaster
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>the hardened lime cast forms into solid loadbearing walls
Wrong. The lime layer is only a few mm thick. There is usually a clay layer between the lime and straw, and in theory, you could make it thick enough to bear weight - but then you'd have a ~20cm clay wall, and at that point, you might as well use bricks.
What actually bears the weight are the straw bales. You have to assume a lot of compression though. The retards who actually try to build with only straw usually preload it with ratchet straps attached to boards on top of the straw and buy special, highly compressed bales, but even so, those buildings tend to fail after a few years.

If you want to do things properly, you need a wood frame capable of supporting the floors and the roof, with the straw, clay and lime only there for filling the gaps and insulating. That way, you can use cheap standard bales (or even ones not suitable for animals) and your house might last centuries if the climate's right.
mouse motel
As someone who has done flat roofing work on strawmat decks and/or with straw insulated parapets, it 100% does light on fire extremely easily...
cool it with the antisemitism
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You can stack square bales into a basic survival shelter really easy. Cover it with a tarp and you'll live through the winter. But >>2789363 is correct, it's hard to keep mice out

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That doesn’t look bad.

My 2¢- that’s the older brushed angle grinder, it’s not one of their higher end models. It’s still a DeWalt so I’m sure it’s fine.

That super stubby impact driver and 5.0 battery is $149. But I have also seen the last gen brushless impact driver plus a smaller battery for $99, and the Atomic hammer drill + impact driver kit and 2x small batteries for $149-$199 a lot.

That 5.0Ah battery will be great on the angle grinder, but quite large on the impact driver, especially if you’re not running 3” screws all day long. It will work fine, but messes with my OCD.
So I'm basically paying $80 for the angle grinder, which I just found for $100 on its own.
Not really that great; might as well just get the stubby on its own.
I got scammed by the g*mans on a cordless drill so I don't really need the hammer drill + impact driver kit.
Like I said, it’s not bad. I’m sure the angle grinder is straight, but certain people are really picky on grinder switch style and power and that one isn’t the latest and greatest XR model or anything.
>No, mattias wandal (woodgears) on youtube already busted the fact that dewalt, by design, drains one battery out of the whole pack thus ruining the whole pack.
wut? that is not how batteries work
Bought my drill for 70 bucks, came with 2 1.5Ah batteries and a charger. Go to buy more batteries, it's 50 bucks just for 2 batteries. These companies are giving away the drills for practically free to hook you into their battery scam, it's printer ink level kikery going on in the cordless tool business right now.

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Recently shortened a front driveshaft for my 2000 F-350 with the V10 and manual transmission. Could find front driveshafts for automatic transmissions all day long for sub $200 while the proper one for my manual transmission was anywhere from $600-1000.

So a little bit of choppy choppy, some indicating in, and welding, and I have the right length driveshaft and saved myself some coin.

The reason for the thread is once I cut the end off to shorten the tube I found this rolled up cardboard inside. What is the reasoning for this? Is it supposed to help dampen harmonic resonance or was it in there for some other reason? I have shortened several driveshafts and this is the first time I have ever encountered rolled up cardboard in the tube.

I ended up with about 0.07 thousandths of runout at the end. Had do do some tacking, then indicating, cut a tack, tap it in, re-indicate, etc. for a bit to get er all nice and true, but it runs smooth as silk at 70 down the highway now, whereas before it was bad at 20mph. The old center ball on the double cardan was completely wallered out and even the splines on the slip yoke were getting worn and sloppy.
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Honeat question, why not just fashion one out of cherry ot walnut using a lathe?
Do this and post it on You don't know shit about welding.
unroll and read the message
maybe VCI paper
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I unrolled the scroll. How did they know?

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my dad bought 2 containers and left them on my property, they are full of car seats,
what can i do with these car seats? look fine just dirty asf. i live near san diego and i would like some cash
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OP was showing off his suck shed
She blows beaner meat for tortillas
If he lived in La Jolla and dropped two shipping containers in his yard as trash the code enforcement and police would be on his ass minute one
He dont live in La Jolla I do you mung.
>my dad bought 2 containers and left them on my property
> i live near san diego and i would like some cash

Send him a bill for storage services as per normal boomer fashion.
>hey son, Ive bought some scrap filled with trash!
>its really big and I dont have he space, just gonna leave this at your place
>have fun with it!

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Hello lil niggas
I plugged something into the circled holes and now the outlet doesn't work
What did I do? Also there was a buzzing and a spark before it died
Also this happened because I'm gangstalked by jews
Also never going back. I'm going to work 60 hour weeks driving a truck and I'm going to own a Porsche and be a sex tourist and have a motor cycle
Also gonna hike and trek and mtb my fucking ass off and I'm gonna do steroids and slay pus pus bbws included
Cope seethe filthy jews
Anyway thanks for reading
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> I was forced into bad decisions by directed energy weapons

> sorry I'm such a bitch but I'm an asparagus and Jupiter is in Uranus right now

same shit
The wires are probably loose on that plug, after the sparks the wires have stopped making contact
Pinche gringo
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Is that what makes my wee smell funny?

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Hi /diy/.
My parents have passed down to me this Lane coffee table, it's been in my family for a long time. However it's definitely seen better days, and I would like to restore it to it's former glory so I can continue to pass it down. I would like some advice as to how I should go about this, I've never refinished or restored furniture before. Also I will attach more pics showing the damage in more detail.
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True, I really don't want to fuck it up. I have some other worn furniture so I'll probably give that a go first for practice.
both of his veneer videos were garbage that he just removed and applied new veneer stickers. Is there an actual way to save wood veneer that isn't on garbage?
yes you just sand it, but if you sand it you remove wood. it can only be done once or twice (usually once) before you'll sand all the way through the veneer. so if you elect to restore it like that it could be detrimental to the longevity of the piece. you could use citrus strip and some 0000 steel wool, and then refinish it, but as you said you should try some other cheap wood furniture first before trying the piece that carries sentimental weight for you.
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The problem with mine, and yeah it's an heirloom, is that the veneer is bubbling where it's been damaged. I feel like I should do something to stabilize the veneer before I sand.
use steel wool instead of sandpaper and hand "sand"

if the veneer really delaminates you need to use a siringe and thin (hide)glue to glue it back. but i cant tell from the pic looks like damaged paint.

and maybe look into shelack lacker for coating it again. looks good penetrates and stabilises the wood and can be easily removed with alcohol by future diyers

If I want water to get away from the side of my house on the ground(I have no slope really, it's all level surface), should I put dirt, sand or gravel?
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I deal with this kind of person all the time. The only way they will listen is if they are proven wrong through first hand experience. Even in defeat, OP will not admit to it and any solution offered here will become their next "original" idea.
Where is the water going to drain to, OP? Down into the ground? Water follows the path of least resistance.
OP is a perfect example of what happens when youre stupid and buy the last / cheapest lot in a sub division.
Ah. The infamous water schlong
OP what you need is a draw bridge
how's the internet in niggertown?

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You've been here long enough to know when you're making a stupid thread with overused material.
that was the point genius
The point is to make a thread about a picture that everyone's already seen here a thousand times? Kind of seems like a stupid point to me.
There's a guy (me) impersonating tripfags.
my father has made a barn for his farm out of old doors. Cannot recomend honestly. Still looks way better than that yank

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Any reason it has to go on the roof? Can I just put panels on piles in the ground like a solar farm?
yes you can put them anywhere really
in fact i have read an article that its more effective on a fence

but it has to do with codes regulation and space and how clever you are

you see if its attached to the house grid usually
it needs to be regulated and placed on the roof

but lets say you know how to set up solar units
like the all in one units
you can set one up on a gourney or a trailer
then its a mobile unit and you can lay the panels on the ground

saying this
you should look up how to ground it
The issue is usually azimuth. At certain times of the year you may not get any power at all.
Putting them on the roof is saving space. It is better to put it on the ground (on mounts in the correct angle), especially putting bifacial panels like that improves performance, plus you can clean them more easily if you live in a snowy area.
Roof is dumb.
Ground mount is way to go.
You get exact angle you want
Service is easy
Snow is easily cleaned off
Easy to diy an angle adjustment

Leave your roof alone. It has a job to do, and likely isnt the optimal angle for harvesting kill o watts

Dont overthink it by imitating what companies get idiots to finance. Panel pointed at sun make power.
A big ass stump is effectively the same as a concrete ballast block

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Boxes are usually financed through snapon credit and not off of the truck line of credit (if you get one big enough). Truck line is zero percent, snapon is ungodly even with perfect credit. My last box was $27k. Damn near perfect credit and I want to say I was over 8%, don't want to lie, but I know it was at least that. It is the loan holder's responsibility to establish reclaiming the box. The dealer/driver just drives the truck to pick it up if it is a repo, most times have it sold before even picking up.
I’m a snap-on fanboy down to the point where I have a bahco in my box and have caterpillar tools along side them

But I don’t see any point in having a snap-on box

It’s a big “steal me” billboard

I keep everything in a husky box with those JDM learning permit/elder driver magnetic stickers you put on your car in Japan on it from my many trips to japan
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>caterpillar tools
one of the best kept tool secrets out there. i've switched to buying all williams usa for my duplicate sets because snappy has gone off the rails on pricing. i can live without the bulky magnetic tray to save over half on the same sockets new
Don’t let the dumbass harbor freight guys in on it

They’ll ruin it
Snappy is def better than HF, but ridiculously overpriced for a mild increase in quality over tools 1/4 the price. If you get a big student discount, it might be worth getting down on some of the main tools from Snappy. Maybe you get a full wrench set and your basic sockets, you will be using that stuff daily for decades. But the 1” drive stuff and specialty bent pliers that see use once every 6mos, There are alternatives like >>2789170 for about half the price of Snappy that are just as good.

Also don’t go into mad debt before you start making money. Also you should find out if your workplace has a good Snap On rep. A big chunk of the premium price is for the service of the truck guy. If he’s a sheisty and only shows up once every 2 months, but you have a really good Matco guy, then it will suck if you have all Snap On and can’t get anything warrantied on time.

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