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File: 3d-model-of-abel.jpg (488 KB, 895x786)
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Last Thread: >>2860808

To begin: the project goal: I am working to make a series of humanoid robots. I am using a Biblical theme of naming the first 3 robots I make Adam, Eve, and Abel. The goal is for these robots to have human body inspired musculoskeletal systems, advanced AI, and that they look human and pass for human to a casual observer at least at a distance. They must be able to walk, talk, run, dance, do sports, do chores, manufacture products, and make more robots just like themselves if not even better. My aim is to build a single robot arm and head and then add sufficiently advanced AI to that arm and head to enable it to build the rest of its own body for me. This way I am delegating the work of building the majority of my first humanoid robot to that robot rather than doing that work myself - and this is to save me time.

In a like manner, my goal with the AI is to code just enough AI that the AI can begin coding itself and this way I don't have to code most of the AI myself because it will self create itself. I liken this to building a seed and that seed growing into a tree because for me to code that tree would take too long for me and just creating the seed would then save me time.
424 replies and 48 images omitted. Click here to view.
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>>2891538
I hadn't heard of that one specifically, however, what I can say is that I'd prefer something cloud based and free if possible. That is, for cases where I want to outsource some aspect of AI. But overwhelmingly, I prefer rules based AI (if/then statements). I plan to implement rules based AI for everything and the robot would only use 3rd party AI like I personally use it, to ask questions sometimes like a call a friend feature to get help. But most of what it does will be custom AI just as most of what I do is my own mind figure things out without outside AI help.
>>
>>2891551
its open source and free. here's the link https://github.com/deepseek-ai/DeepSeek-V3
also I don't get why you want it to be cloud based? don't you want to run it offline and off the cloud?
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>>2891557
because I don't believe privacy exists and that's the main reason for offline and if you go offline, to have a truly elite tier llm it has to be running on $50k hardware at least or w/e. Better to just go cloud based to have the best of the best llm if you want llm rather than some trash llm offline
>>
>>2891557
plus my AI for my robot will not be depending on the 3rd party AI it partners with so it will still be fully functional without the cloud based supplemental AI and will only use the supplemental AI to expand its capabilities nominally. I am NOT suggesting the onboard AI should also be cloud based. Any AI that is mission critical should be onboard for sure.
>>
matter of fact, ask an llm about my designs. It will praise them and say I'm a genius

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Anyone has experience working in a factory, what is it like? is it worth it?
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I work in a meat plant shackling the beast by the leg and sending them up the chain off the killing table. Hard manual work and juggling a few buttons to keep them moving across the table and get the elevator chain to meet the shackle at the right moment. Also working a hose to give them a quick clean. What makes it more interesting than a lot of factories I suppose is probably the animals themselves. They're electrically stunned unconscious before they hit the table and then hit with a stabilizing current to hold them still for the slaughter. It's actually very humane they have no idea whats going on and are bled out. But sometimes they might fall out of the stunning box on a funny angle and we got to jump up on the table to kill them and muscle them around to meet the shackle. Or they might still kick a bit by reflex while you are going for their leg. I wear motocross armour and a cricket helmet for that reason. These are cattle mostly big bulls and steers. Even more intersting but very rare, is if they recover from the stun before they can be killed and jump up off the table. As you can imagine they are not happy to wake up suddenly in a factory floor surrounded by men. In that case we slam some gates and get the fuck out of there, and come back with a gun
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>>2888130
>Talk? What about smash?

"ey anon you gonna put a baby all up in this or what?"
>>
I've never worked at a factory but any time I look up a factory on Google maps the reviews are 1.5 stars out of 5 and every review talks about how the managers are nepotistic and nobody gets a raise or promotion unless they suck the managers dick
How true is this generalization where you work?
>>
>>2875997
You’re just kind of a cog, and they always act like you fuck everything up to get you to move faster
>>
>>2876110
Men are bred to be warriors and workers

Women hunt and gather and utilize social clout to survive, the drama is literally how they can afford to exist

I bought a used picrel blower recently and it's been working great, crazy strong, literally stronger than some gas blowers I've used, until I put fully charged batteries in it. it has a slider for adjusting power and a turbo button, which worked without problems on batteries without a single bar and lower charges, but when I put fully charged ones, it kept turning off half a second after engaging the turbo mode. when I discharged the batteries a bit it started to work normally again. seems like some surge protection or something.
I'm not even sure if it's a design issue or something wrong with the particular item I have, because there's not a lot discussion online about the brand, which is popular only in Europe (also has some rebrands, like Ozito in Australia ).
Is it fixable? I really don't want to return it, because I liked it a lot and got it in a bid twice as cheap as they usually sell for and a new one costs almost as much as Makita 36 or 40V blowers while being from a budget brand, so there's no point.
1 reply omitted. Click here to view.
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>>2889622
Is it brushed or brushless?

If it’s brushless, then there’s probably a circuit board in there that’s fried and the whole assembly will be coated in crap and cost as much as a new blower. Id it’s brushed, there’s not much to go wrong besides the trigger, whatever the turbo button does, and the battery itself.

If you pull it apart to start testing, i would get a meter on the battery terminals and make sure the battery isn’t cutting out when you pull the trigger on turbo and there’s a big load.
>>
>>2889729
it's brushless, sadly. honestly, it doesn't seem like anything is fried, as it works perfectly fine once the batteries drop down to the usual 18V (18V batteries are commonly 20V fresh after charging and I'm assuming it's the case here, but I haven't checked with a multimeter yet) an even at 20V, it works normally at every regular speed, 1 through 6 on the slider, just not when I press the turbo button, when it shuts down after trying to speed up for a fraction of a second. at 18V the turbo button starts working
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>>2889729
>If you pull it apart to start testing, i would get a meter on the battery terminals and make sure the battery isn’t cutting out when you pull the trigger on turbo and there’s a big load.
I haven't thought about the batteries, but it's a good idea. I only have 4Ah and this blower is about twice as strong as my 3kW corded blower, so it's very likely too. I'll check it tomorrow
>>
>>2889910
If it’s brushless, it could be something wonky in the circuitry. It reminds me of my brushless trimmer, there’s some extra level turbo mode that’s like 2x normal speed, I have no idea if it’s a feature or a glitch because I never read the manual. But the only time it goes into that ultra high speed is if I hold the trigger to get it to normal speed, then release the trigger and press it all the way back down within like a second. But it’s very random and does it unexpectedly during normal use.
>>
There's a feature to take your hand off the throttle and it keeps blowing so you can articulate it better or with 2 hands. To turn it off just give it some juice and take your hand off the lock button.

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I'm looking for plans and ideas for a woodstove type heater for a 12x14 room. I've seen random bullshit posted in forums and YouTube. Can't make sense of any of it. I've also come across rocket heaters/stoves that are shown as the next coming of Christ but to me feels like a gimmick. What I'm looking for is tried and tested plans that don't burn your house down don't kill you in your sleep due to CO poisoning. And those could be either traditional stove type or rocket stove type. Also something that would burn efficiently without using a shit ton of wood. I need to burn it mainly for sleeping as I have a traditional mass heater in my living room. Any ideas ? I can weld and have access to basic metalwork tools, nothing fancy.
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What's the benefit of kiln dried wood, won't it just normalise to the local humidity anyway?
>>
>>2889662
Kiln dried firewood? Never heard of that. I've heard of it for construction lumber. Its basically faster for that. Less time between milling and sale. That's an advantage for the seller and not really anyone else really.
>>
>>2880467
>buy fire bricks
>buy fire cement
>make furnace like square
>drill brackets for furnace like door
>build spout for furnace like tube
>make spout go outside for furnace like exhaust

:D BURNACE :DD
>>
>>2880467
OP, I sure hope you don't have that exact model. I do and it is a hopeless construction and far harder to get going than other woodstoves I have used. Once you get it going it is OK but not much more than that.

You might want a more modern construction with secondary combustion using pre-heated air. You can also combine this with a tile oven and a flue labyrinth (Finnish/German/Russian/Swedish designs exist)

>>2880572
You might want to slot that in only after the woodstove is hot to keep a good draft. Once it is hot, the draft should be able to handle a heat exchanger. You can also use a simpler heat exhanger using concentric tubes where the inner is the hot flue going up and the outer is fresh air going down, effectively a cross flow heat exchanger.
>>
>>2880851
>I'm not a metal worker, but can't you just make a little metal box with a chimney and door opening, and then use whatever they normally do for the door?
You can do that but it will be really inefficient.
To make the combustion efficient, you want to keep the temperature in the firebox as high as possible, so you want some insulation. And extra set cast iron inset plates will be sufficient, that is what my woodstove has. And then you want to get as much heat as possible out of the flue gas. If you preheat the air going into the fire box it will improve efficiency even further.

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Found an old bokken online for cheap, it has a small moldy scent and various superficial scratches, any ideas of how to restore?
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>>2889136
you need to reinforce cracks properly with dowels or metal rods/screws alongside your epoxy resin. probably your strongest option that's cheap enough is going to be either devcon 2ton or acraglas
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>>2888966
Steam the dents out, let properly dry, light sanding + oil+wax
>>
take estrogen to help let the weebonese spirit overtake you and it will come to you naturally
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>>2889072
A great amount were along the grain unless I didnt properly check. I filled them and now im left wondering whether to varnish it or leave it as is. I dont have much woodworking experience so no clue what to do next
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>>2888966
You defeat the dojo master and get a new one with your victory. If you can't beat him consider a job as a sushi chef.

It's been a good while since we've had a good tractor thread.
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>>2881975
that is massey licence? same as MF35
>>
>>2889792
Nope, Ford, Harry and Henry made the deal on a hand shake, then things became messy when Edsel took charge
>>
>>2889794
only engine is different from MF35
>>
>>2889795
The fe35 evolved from the tea20
>>
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>>2889792
Mine is a 1953 NAA golden jubilee. This was years after the ford/Ferguson/fordson compilations, and while they were several similarities, the new for 53 model had several improvements.

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Thinking of getting a flail mulcher to clear out 1-3 acres of scrubby overgrowth. How often will I be heading to the petrol station, can you clear out a decent amount of square feet off each full tank?
2 replies omitted. Click here to view.
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>>2887047
sounds good enough
>>
sweepy boy
>>
Are these self-propelled? Otherwise fuck pushing that thing around in 3 acres of dirt
>>
Two handle triggers, so probably one for the drive and one to engage the flail, just like a snowblower. But with more flailing.
>>
>>2889452
It's a mower

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Found 2 leaks this morning in my hot water pex line. one pinhole, one larger and significant pinhole. only 32 degrees last night. What's the best way to fix them? do I replace all my pex lines? I'm reading online that uponor red and blue pex are trash
7 replies omitted. Click here to view.
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>>2889537
They're garbage fittings that leak in a few years. Occasionally they'll last a decade, but it's a lot cheaper and easier to use proper fittings. If I see a sharkbite then I know the last person who worked on the plumbing was a retard and I replace them with proper fittings like a responsible adult.
>>
>>2889630
sharkbite fittings are fine if installed correctly and will easily last beyond a decade. there's a reason they have 25 year warranties.
>>
>>2889630

You do you, but i spent a large part of last year doing maintenance for some awful landlords. Got to see a lot of failures.

Something that stands out is in less than a year I saw two different failures where the crimped connection popped and the shark bite within a foot held.

Take it how you will, but a pro moving too fast fails just as often if not more than an amateur with a sharkbite in my experience
>>
>>2889687
>>2889688
Comparing improperly installed crimp rings to properly installed sharkbites is just a cope. Crimp rings are trivial to install, trivial to check, and last as long as the pipe. Sharkbites are garbage and you should feel bad about using them.
>>
>>2889687
This. Pretty sure it's plumbers losing out on their $250/hr, 2 hr minimum talking about how shit sharkbites are. I've had some installed for over 10 years now, they're fine. I might replace them soon just to be safe, I'll still be $480 ahead of the bullshit plumbers prices.

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I want to DIY a mattress. Doesn't seem too hard to do. Mattresses are just layers of various materials on top of one another then sealed in a shell, and the various manufacturers will sell their layers online to anyone who wants to buy.

Pic related is a recipe someone recommends for a DIY mattress. Price comes out to $1150 after shipping for these parts for a queen, which is way cheaper than comparable mattresses -- the cheapest not total garbage mattress with latex comfort layers that I could find was about $2000.
>3" soft natural talalay latex (for comfort)
>1" medium natural talalay latex
>8" high quality pocket coils (for spinal alignment)
>1" firm foam (to protect the coils from the slats)
>zipper mattress cover to keep it all together

Anybody ever heard of someone doing something like this? Seems like a good idea, cut out the gigantic margins that mattress manufacturers bake into their goods, and if anything goes wrong I can just swap out a layer for a replacement or something else instead of dropping another huge stack of cash on a new mattress.
8 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
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Stacks of pool noodles
>>
>>2888528
Mattress manufacturers don't have gigantic margins, I don't know where you heard that but it's complete and utter bullshit. You will source materials for at minimum 5x the price mattress companies are able to. I'll bet $100 you won't be happy with the mattress you make in the long term, even if you try to convince yourself it's fine, in a year or two your back will tell you otherwise. There's a reason people walk around mattress stores trying out beds. Maybe you should too.
>>
>>2888555
trips of truth
lay on the cold hard ground
to feel pain is to be alive
>>
>>2888708
>You will source materials for at minimum 5x the price mattress companies are able to
https://diymattress.net/
>>
I made a bed out of pillows and crates when I was younger in my first small share house.
Stacked a bunch of crates at the bottom for the base then placed layers of blanket and pillow over it until it was roughly the same level and thick (30cm min).
It was absolute dogshit, some of the worst fucking nights sleep I think I had had during that part of my life.

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How do I get keys copied/cut for one of these locks? My family owns a business and the landlord is clueless on how to get new keys.

Says do not duplicate, every key shop says no.
14 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
>>
>he uses keys
standard rake and 5 seconds can unlock that shit
>>
If it is a Best key the keyway letter should be stamped on the key. You can order a key decoder for Best keys, get the depths of each cut from bow to tip, and order a key from an online vendor that will cut them to code. Some vendors won't ask questions. I bought a 1930's hand crank key machine from an antique store years back that can cut good copies of any key. Buying a used basic machine can be an option if you plan to make your own copies of restricted keys in the future.
>>
>>2889532
There's little hand held nibblers that's are pretty cool
>>
>>2886546
Take a video, a closeup shot of the lease. Then pan over to a shot that would capture the apartment number and the street name if possible. From the apartment number zoom into the key ensuring that it is focused and the words are legible. Still rolling, insert the key and open the lock. From the lock you pan over to your landlord holding photo identification. You zoom in on the ID as they verbally confirm their identity, and then pan over to the signed letter. Show this video to your locksmith.
>>
>>2886540
take the lock in and not the key duh

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What should the sand, cement and water mix to plaster this wall hole?
This is result of water damage and I decided to fix it so I started hammering on it to remove the loose pieces and this is the end result.

Any advice is very much appreciated.
4 replies omitted. Click here to view.
>>
>>2888777
As you can see, there are two layers.
Do your first layer with diamond basecoat plaster. Press hard when you apply.
Let it mostly set, scratch it up a bit, and then do the final layer with diamond finish plaster.

There are some old school plaster tutorials on youtube, give them a watch.

>>2888792
Those are structural clay tiles, used in USA/Canada in the first half of the 1900s before literally everything became stick frame construction.
>>
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>>2889097
Thanks anon, I went the cement/sand mix route. Will apply a fine plaster on top for finishing.
I think it will look alright but I'm still somewhat concerned about water damage happening again and would probably be better of with some plaster that is impervious to water.
>>
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Getting there lads, just waiting for it to cure so I can sand it afterwards.
Also applied some sample of the paint I'll be using and holy fuck it's a bit zesty, lads...
>>
Nobody cares but it's fixed, doesn't look perfect and the color choice was poor but I'm otherwise happy with the end result.
>>
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>>2888777
Do you live in the 3rd world?
There are ready cement mixtures for this shit.
Every hardware store near me has KNAUF cements for various purposes.

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I bought 5 acres and almost have it payed off. I want to build one of these on it. All the plans online cost $$$. are there any websites that have geodesic dome cabin (or just small homes in general) plans for free? I poured the foundation piers over a year ago, so it'll be built on a deck like pic related.
37 replies and 8 images omitted. Click here to view.
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>>2887397
it has the less wall material for a given area, that is why domes are used.
it makes more sense as a greenhouse in which you make your gardened house inside >>2884232
but desu a traditional greenhouse like structure would work too, so dunno
>>
>>2881900
Domebook and Domebook2 (plus Shelter) have formulae for developing your own domes along with materials and methods. If stoned hippies could do it, so can you. Personally I'd buy a set of plans for my first dome.
>>
>>2887179
Here in Japan they're not uncommon as glamping things since sheds and micro houses are not made to withstand the cataclysmic earthquakes we sometimes have.
>>
>>2889361
>sheds and micro houses are not made to withstand the cataclysmic earthquakes we sometimes have.
bullshit. I live in another very seismic country and wooden houses (even big ones) can withstand big earthquakes just fine.
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>>2881900
Those things leak.

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the outlet to my drying machine is equally as wide as the outlet hole to the outside so a lot of times it just disconnects and spews roughly half of the hot laundry air into my house how do I fix this?
I already tried just shoving the air pipe thing into it and taping it but I guess the heat makes the tape not work
1 reply omitted. Click here to view.
>>
>>2888348
yeah that's what I meant the flex hose that connects the dryer to the outlet is like the exact same radius as the outlet, sorry the picture is kinda ass but it's there
>>
instead of tape, drill two tiny holes through both hose and pipe, one on each side
then screw two tiny screws to hold it all together
or pass a dollar-store steel wire though from side to side, bending extremities down so it stays in place
sounds janky but this is what the ventilation guys do all the time, drill holes and put screws or rivets
>>
>>2888375
>screw two tiny screws to hold it all together
This works but the sheet metal screws like to catch lint so I don’t recommend if from my experiences. I would say do it and check for lint buildup every few months but nobody is ever going to do that because getting behind the driver is always a pain in the ass. Haven’t burnt a house down yet, but that much lint so close to the heating element can’t be good
>>
Hose clamp, metal foil tape for warm ducts and three self-tapping screws if you really feel like it. It's not going anywhere.
>>
>>2888342
The flex hose should go OVER the dryer connection. Like outside the duct. Fit it on as best you can and then sort of spin it. Best way I know how to describe it. If you’re still having trouble with it fitting try bending some of the dryer duct part just slightly to give you some extra wiggle room.
I would still tape it, but it’s a special type of foil tape you need to use. Probably better off just getting a hose clamp

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What are some places in the US where the government will fuck off and let me live in a container home like picrel
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>>2883068
>If you’re white, then you’re going to be expected to comply with the law, wherever you go. If brown, they will leave you alone unless you are committing crimes against your neighbors.
This.
>>
>>2883060
Fuck off to west Texas, Appalachia is full
>>
>>2883040
greenland
>>
>>2883513
How did he get in those logs?!!
>>
>>2885323
>none of us really know what it'd be like to live in a container/trailer/etc until you actually do it and that shock might be too much for you,

I know what it's like as I own four High Cubes I modded and use for machine/welding shops and to safely protect my motorcycle collection. I've also worked in custom military containerized shops and quite like those. I use mine daily and if my house burnt down I'd hang a hammock in my container shop.

The whole container matters so disregard your layout idea because that won't give the right feedback. Ceiling tiedowns are key to getting best functional use from one as they make hanging shelves, bunks and whatever else you want off the floor which makes cleaning much easier. I even hang motorcycles between my shelves when I want full access to my project bikes.

Only buy "one trip" grade containers. Do not buy those little 20-footers because they're also standard height. Use a 40ft High Cube or longer if you can find one.

Build out your first container as a workshop which you'll need for independent living anyway. My most recent one-trip HC with doors on both ends was over six grand delivered which is cheap for what it does. Ignore the temptation to buy a "WWT" junk grade box which are cheap because they're condemned for further maritime service. The extra work and coating costs isn't worth it.

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I have a shelf kinda like pic related but more heavy duty. It has metal railings around it about 3/4 inch thick and like 5 inches high. Im going to hang it in front of a window. The shelf hangs from 4 chains and seems to have the hard ware to hang from the ceiling which I want to avoid. I could use a board and stain it and then pre drill the holes for chain supports then screw the board into the struts. I would rather just hang it from the wall. So I need somewhat heavy duty arms that I can drill into the studs which dont match up to the width of the shelf. Is there something like a curtain rod or two will be needed that I can install to hang the chains from? It wont be very heavy but potted plants with water can get some weight when you add them up.

I walked through the hardware store and didnt see a solution off the bat. The shelving hardware seems closer to what I need then the support and anchor stuff.
>>
>>2886446
My neighbor hung up some plants like that recently and the next day his dog died, might want to think twice about all this
>>
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>>2886512
Ya I've inherited someone else's dogs and they are old. What is meant to be is meant to be.

Here is a pick of the shelf and window are there a type of arms or brackets or something for this.
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>>2886555
The plants going on there are smaller. A pair of porthos that hang down.
>>
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>>2886446
>I would rather just hang it from the wall.
Use two wall brackets (see pic). Hang outer chains from brackets. Use eye bolt through lower bracket screw hole instead of a screw. Hang inner chains from these. Brackets/studs don't match up to shelf width? Use a couple of steel bars across top of brackets and screw eyes to span the correct width.


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