How do I not die from sewer gas? I want to go into an old timey sewer like picrel and it has ventilation shafts all the way and the tunnel is large enough to drive a car into and is level in its entirety (entrance is from the side if a ravine so one does not descend at any point)
>>2942014>why do you want to go into a shit tunnelAsk your mom
funny how they made a whole tunnel to have a little stream run through it
>>2939516The career computer told me it was my destiny.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5Lfa_zLD1Q&t=18
>>2938753Buy a good gas analyzer. Don't skimp or buy an amazon / ebay one. That said, you need to understand the nature of the gases you may come across in confined spaces and the risks. You really need closed air-supply for these sorts of ventures. No clothing that might generate a spark, if you're using radios they're another point of risk. Gas leaks can kill you in more ways than one.
>>2938789There are no birds on 4chan.... r-right?
I bet I could design a cooler house if you gave me a pristine 30ft high waterfall to shit all over as a starting point.And mine wouldn't be all fucked up from predictable problems.Just sayin.of course, mine wouldn't be the ongoing "jobs creator" for local Tradiees AKA "White Van Mafia"https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/fallingwaters-roof-is-leaking-can-this-7-million-renovation-protect-frank-lloyd-wrights-masterpiece-180987288/?utm_source=firefox-newtab-en-us
Dude, it's a 90 year old house made of wood built in a waterfall.
I was there once I believe. While the waterfall was cool. The house was like weird cause all the rooms were big and empty spaces.
>>2943742exactly, I'd have made it out of stone, maybe a Greasy-Roma knock off. If you want some shit hanging in mid-air, go with a Roman Arch, not a wooden dildo.
>>2943738>white van mafiaas if the guys in white vans are the ones designing all the shitty houses. The irony is that every builder I've worked for lives in a pristine, well design, solar oriented home and not a lumber nightmare build by drugged up framers and underpaid illegals, not to mention the "inspections" that happen on one pre-selected house to determine whether the rest are built well. As usual, blame the government for lack of regulation and oversight.
What's the best way to get good at picking locks? I've picked everything in my house a million times but I feel like I don't actually know how to pick any lock, like I've just sorta memorized the 8 or 10 locks I have. Do I buy some of these or should I get into pinning my own locks or something?
>>2944299>Download a pdf of MIT guide to lockpicking (its on annas archive),that thing is fucking ancient, surely there is better by now?
>>2944330It's gereatric, and there are other handbooks, but not much has changed and the information is so to the point and concise that it really doesn't matter. It's still great to this day.
>>2944346I'm so terrible at wording things lol. When I say not much has changed I mean the information in there is still extremely relevent as not much in it is different.
>>2943686I assume that you already know how different locks work. If not, start to learn about the mechanism behind it. Apart from that it's just experience. Get every lock you can get and just try it.
>>2944370The MIT handbook goes over each lock type in an intuitive and easily absorbale way. Honestly I encourage everyone to get into lockpicking. I cannot understate just how shockingly easy it is. Free money.
I've recently started building some things out of welded mild steel square tube and aluminum profiles, using both square and miter joints. So far I've been getting by with a handheld bandsaw and angle grinder. But it takes an inordinate amount of time to get a decent fit-up - can't get a straight cut with the bandsaw and have to spend a long time grinding everything square, which then fucks with the dimensions of the part. Can't seem to get the angle grinder to cut the tube either, takes forever to grind through 30x30x2mm tube - and it seems like you have to burn through two cut-off wheels to get it done.I've had some luck borrowing time on a stationary bandsaw and it seems like it would work, but that shit's quite expensive. Have also seen videos of people cutting up tubing with the angle grinder directly, dunno if my failure with it is an issue with the cut-off wheels I've got, the grinder itself or something about how I do it.What's the "correct" way to do it - cut square tube into flat and miter joints? Am I supposed to invest in a stationary bandsaw? Perhaps a stationary circular saw with a metal cutting wheel? Does everyone just do it with the angle grinder? There are tons of tutorials on welding the tube together, and of course fitting up aluminum extrusion is like legos, but everyone skips over the actually hard part which is getting a nice fit-up without massive gaps that are a pain to weld
>>2943631>>2943641Stationary bandsaw is the best tool for this, but small bandsaws are very finnicky (the sub-$1k range). I still use one because it easily gets precise cuts, mine was like $350 new, one of the cheapest ones on the market. >metal circ sawOn the cheap end you won't get a precise one and it's gonna be insanely loud. High end are good, but usually don't allow much, if any, pivoting for odd angles. For cutting aluminium you're not supposed to use normal angle grinder discs at all, it gums up like hell. Use a circ saw if you're on a tight budget, regular wood cutting carbide blades are fine on aluminium. Wood/multimaterial miter saws are again usable, but they're not precise. For anything precision, bandsaws are the go-to thing.
>>2943631>all that wasted material instead of mitre cutting and flipping
>>2944068>>all that wasted material instead of mitre cutting and flippingTrue dat. Of course sometimes it's not feasible, or possible. I do like that you can sometimes "grow" a stick of steel and make it "longer" by doing miters and flipping it like you said so there is zero wasted material and it actually ends up being much longer than the original length of steel.
Not sure about the notch method in OP, but if you just want to do the regular cut and flip, most chop saws can swivel the fence for miters, including the $159 one from Harbor Freight.
you arent a welder youre a miterer
does grounding really matter? it does really sound stupid and funny sticking a wire on a dirt.
>>2935250I heard it was because some nigger running from the cops, jumped a fence and fried himself on an AC wire that he landed on
My house runs on solar and I never grounded anything at all and if I turn off my desk fan sometimes it makes my monitor go dark for a few seconds.
>>2941005>s*rbs doing s*rb things
>>2933760It will matter if you need it
realistically how long should carbon steel tools last before rusting. would you buy carbon steel tools? or is cr-v the standard?
>>2938963>realistically how long should carbon steel tools last before rusting. would you buy carbon steel tools? or is cr-v the standard?First, there are different “carbon steel” alloys, were the only difference is the carbon percentage, although the processing method can also have a large influence on the finished product, since carbon can get burned off from the surface during hot forging, and can be added by case hardening methods. As for “alloy steels” other than basic carbon steel, one of the main reasons even cheaper manufacturers use these “tool steels” is because basic carbon steels aren’t usually made to the strictest tolerances and testing, even by USA manufacturers, whereas quality manufacturers routinely test alloy steels to verify alloy content on the alloy steels. The exception to this is “third world” manufacturers, were cheating on alloy content is extremely common, as are verification certificates. Even Japanese manufacturers were cheating on alloy content, with the knowledge of the US government, and in China, the issue is way worse. As for specific alloys, preferences usually come down to what is available, the type of tool, the planned processing methods, and how each component works in the finished product. In classic Locking pliers, the jaws would likely be forged from one alloy, maybe a vanadium steel, the bent sheet metal parts would likely be a different alloy, optimal for high tensile sheet metal, maybe a Molybdenum alloy, the springs would likely be subcontracted to a spring manufacturer using an optimal alloy for springs, and the rivets would be made out of an alloy that could be cold riveted. The original vise grips had the jaws braized to the sheet metal handles, and that would be a bronze alloy, so the rivets are just reinforcement that help brazing. Afterwards, the pluers are cleaned and plated, because the plating keeps welding slag from easily sticking to the locking pliers when used as welding clamps.
>>2940209>First, there are different “carbon steel” alloys, were the only difference is the carbon percentage, although the processing method can also have a large influence on the finished product, since carbon can get burned off from the surface during hot forging, and can be added by case hardening methods.>As for “alloy steels” other than basic carbon steel, one of the main reasons even cheaper manufacturers use these “tool steels” is because basic carbon steels aren’t usually made to the strictest tolerances and testing, even by USA manufacturers, whereas quality manufacturers routinely test alloy steels to verify alloy content on the alloy steels.>The exception to this is “third world” manufacturers, were cheating on alloy content is extremely common, as are verification certificates.>Even Japanese manufacturers were cheating on alloy content, with the knowledge of the US government, and in China, the issue is way worse.>As for specific alloys, preferences usually come down to what is available, the type of tool, the planned processing methods, and how each component works in the finished product.>In classic Locking pliers, the jaws would likely be forged from one alloy, maybe a vanadium steel, the bent sheet metal parts would likely be a different alloy, optimal for high tensile sheet metal, maybe a Molybdenum alloy, the springs would likely be subcontracted to a spring manufacturer using an optimal alloy for springs, and the rivets would be made out of an alloy that could be cold riveted.>The original vise grips had the jaws braized to the sheet metal handles, and that would be a bronze alloy, so the rivets are just reinforcement that help brazing.>Afterwards, the pluers are cleaned and plated, because the plating keeps welding slag from easily sticking to the locking pliers when used as welding clamps.so ... how long should it last before rusting, professor?
CR-V is always the standard
>>2938963As long as you oil them after each use with a rag and put them in a container safe from the elements (like a toolbox) they'll last longer than you without any notable corrosion. 3 in 1 oil, wd40, doesnt matter. Tools made of just regular iron are in working shape for centuries doing the same thing.
>>2939107That's a cool invention.
I had a 4in furnace vent coming out of pic related on muh roof. Its no longer used because we switched to heat pump. What's a good way to keep rain and critters from getting in there? It's a fairly steep roof so I'm worried that just putting a rain cap on will allow water to splash up into it or snow to pile against it and get in.I was going to leave the pipe on it but it won't stand straight because it's not attached to anything and I don't trust a tiny bead of silly cone to keep water out.I don't want to pull the flashing because I'll surely ruin the shingles.
>>2944206What if you just jammed a bunch of dildos in there and caulk it up? That way if you ever get hit by a tornado the dildos will go flying into the air like a SAM battery.
Remove the flue collar and tooth in some new shingles. Don't half ass it like some kind of lazy asshole.
>>2944227That sounds exactly like half assing it... wouldn't the proper repair be tearing it off completely, patching the decking back to the nearest seam, putting new underlayment, and then slipping the shingles back in??? But let's be real honest, no one is going to do that until it's time to tear off and replace the roof.
>>2944206>What's a good way to keep rain and critters from getting in there?There should already have been a vent cap with a screen in it that prevents ingress. If you feel lazy you could just put onto screened vent cap on the interior side of the same vent run.
>>2944227>>2944230The roof is brand new and the dicks didn't leave any spare shingles for me. I'd like to avoid fucking up a new roof if possible>>2944231>reading comprehension
What are the advantages and disadvantages of the Stillson and Swedish pipe wrench designs? What do you prefer, or what do you prefer for what tasks?
>>2943184Interesting, but when and why would you opt for an American/Ridgid versus Swedish/Knipex/Bahco?
>>2943206Get a good bite with the Ridgid and there’s no handles to squeeze so you can cheater bar that bitch on real stubborn stuff.
>>2943206>Interesting, but when and why would you opt for an American/Ridgid versus Swedish/Knipex/Bahco?The American/Ridgid style pipe wrenches are just a basic solid tool, made for biting into a pipe like a rabid bit bull. The wrenches can also be used on square and hex fasteners, but were designed for round soft pipe. You adjust the size, put the wrench on in the right direction, and the wrench jaws just bite into the pipe. As >>2943262 said the simple handle is good for cheater pipes. The Bahco Design is basically a “plier” type wrench, and can be used as pliers in a pinch.The Swedish type has two handles though, which you have to squeeze together to use, at least initially, making the design not as basic and quick in use. The handles can also flop apart if you fail to hold both in use, and Bahco used yo, and may still, sell an accessory to hold the handles closer together to prevent the problem. I would saw the Bahco version is lighter than the American design, but with Aluminum handles as an option, that may no longer be the case. The Swedish wrenches may be narrower, which can be helpful in certain situations, but also may provide slightly less grip. Basically, Bahco is slightly more versatile in use, Ridgid is simpler to use once the jaw is adjusted to the right opening size. Also, you can buy every single part for the Ridgid style wrenches as replacement parts, and most brands making the Ridgid style wrenches use compatible parts, with the possible exception of MCC of Japan, which uses a varied design on some series of their “American Style” wrenches.
Harbor freight has the cheapest large pipe wrenches. I'm not a full time plumber so good enough.
>>2943262Incidentally I have similar thoughts about traditional adjustable wrenches, I see people saying they're obsolete thanks to plier wrenches all the time but having to squeeze the handles really limits how much torque you can put into the tool, working at weird angles or in confined spaces, etc.
Winter is coming! What are you doing to stay cozy/save on heating costs?Me? I'm currently in the middle/at the start of various projects on the house I got.>WindowsI'm changing the gaskets, they're done and leaking heat, just gotta figure out how to adjust the windows to get rid of the remaining gaps.>atticAlready got a big-ish layer of rockwool in it, but apparently, nowadays you're going thicker. Contemplating if I should just plaster the whole area in a few cm of XPS, which would also give me a better walking surface and the option to store some stuff, without producing stupid ass rock wool dust.>pipesNot really worried about pic related, but my heating system in the basement has all its pipes uninsulated. While it does warm up my basement, the fact that the basement itself isn't really insulated does waste quite a lot of heat. So those pipes gonna get covered. Just wondering if it's really worth it to shell out for armaflex, or if I can just get random PE or rock wool insulation of my local big box store, which costs half as much as armaflex and seems to have a better λ as armaflex. For armaflex, I can only find λ ≤ 0,036W/(m·K) at 0°C at the various stores that sell it, but for the cheapos, I get about λ = 0,037W/(m·K) at 40°C, and armaflex lists 40°C only in their datasheet for all their products, and there its at 0.041, so worse. What gives?
>>2943218Careful with rockwool. Well documented to cause lung issues. If you're not comfortable working with it call an accredited installer and they will be able to take care of the installation for you no problem.
>>2943218>shell out for armaflexthis is generally so the ambient temperature of the room your heater is in doesn't leach temp from the hot water you're usingif your heater is set to 120, by the time the water reaches your shower it's down 10-20 degrees from ambient loss along the pipe patharmaflex helps that
>>2943319>comfortableNot really. I hate that shit. But nothing a pair of gloves and a good mask won’t take care of. But for pipe insulation (which is covered in aluminum foil as a top layer) I don’t expect that to be a big issue. But I guess for cutting and going around curves PE foam and armaflex is way easier to handle. Just some cheapo cutter knife. >>2943389I know. I’ll also do my warm water pipes, but heating is the main issue. Just wondering if armaflex is worth the extra €€€. I’ve worked with it at a job before, so that’s why it’s my go-to, plus, the stuff you get at the big box store tends to be the lowest quality, but in the other hand, a foam tube can’t be that hard to make good enough?
>>2943429>foam tube can’t be that hard to make good enough?right. i see. yeah i men, foam is foam. even 30% more efficiency isn't noticable in our context and I highly doubt there's that much variance
>>2943218John Snow always keeps his pipe warm if you know what I mean
Hello /diy/ersSome stupid asshole put a box garden bed under my windows.Now I need to paint the wooden window frames because the paint is only hanging on due to goodwill.The garden bed is 20cm high(ground level-up) and 53cm wide (from wall to edge of garden bed)I can orient the ladder in either direction, but either way only 1/2 of the ladder legs will be in the garden bed.What can I build or do to support the ladder over the void?The top of the window is 2.5m off the ground so I need to be able to reach it
>>2943596Retard
>>2943530You can't set up a ladder on a public sidewalk for safety reasons. Check our the scaffolding and pedestrian protection next time you are in a city.
>>2943064Do you really need sandbags if you have the right angle?
Even though this board DOESN'T move, my ladder thread diedI ended up buying this thing, if anyone remembers. I made the thread maybe a month back. its pretty nice
>>2944235Sorry I 'm an idiot. It is the sumo stance from little giant. I got the 28 ft length because I wasn't sure how high I needed for 2 stories. It was expensive
Is there a cheap and easy way to storm-proof windows for high winds? Will hardware cloth do the job? I'm not talking about direct hits from tornados, but we get 60+ mph gusts out here quite often. Open to suggestions.
>>2941814Storm shutters are pretty common around the Gulf Coast.
>>2941829I'm looking for a permanent solution I can leave up year around that doesn't block too much light, and install myself. I like the storm shutter idea but they're like $100-200 a window.
>>2941859Why not make your own shutters? They're dead simple.
Where do you buy shutter hardware that won't rust. E.g. hinges and latches. I want to buy 304 or 316 stainless steel ones.
Most windows can handle 60 mph winds no problem. Even windows with an absurdly low design pressure rating of like 20 psi can typically handle up to 90 mph winds. Cheap windows may leak air a bit with heavy gusts, but it's not going to break them or something.
The current toilet situation is no longer a viable option in my home. A second toilet is needed and I refuse to pay literal thousands to have a plumber do something I could do. If I know the tools, equipment, supplies and steps needed to carry out this project, then I don’t understand why I couldn’t do it myself. I’ve tried looking up some (how to) videos and information about how to install a toilet in a closet from scratch so to speak but have had no success. Everything I’ve read seems to only be geared towards repairing, replacing or simply fixing an already existing toilet. I need to know how to do the whole thing but have yet to find any info. I can buy the toilet, the tools, supplies and everything else that I need, I just need to know how to do it.The house plumbing is all PVC, I need to drill a hole in the floor, in install whatever is needed, put a toilet in, run a water line toThe toilet and tap into the main drain line. Can anyone point me to a book, website, video?
>>2944115i'm literally a plumber. i do it all week lmaothe work is the demo and basic understanding of how to lay out pipes, which i already explained the requirements
>>2944116>>2944116Yea. Exactly. That why you would know how to do it and why I wouldn't attempt to do that without knowing what im doing. And thats what I said. Thanks for proving my point.
Why do you need it in the house?Wouldn't it be easier to dig a hole in your yard and install a septic tank?
>>2944134Better yet just install an build an old outhouse in the backyard. This way, it will smell like human shit outside and you have a natural bear deterrent.
>>2944117you're a fuckin faggot
>makes impact driver obsoletedrill bros we are so back
>>2937056qrd of that lamp?
This is retarded. Bro is going to snap hos wrist drilling like that. Also, Dewalt chucks suck the worst.I groove black pipe from 1¼ to 6 inch with a dewalt or hilti drill every day.>>2933883 has never touched a bolt or screw in his life.
>>2943966>chuck sucksjust swap it for a good one, its just 40$
>>2932803What is the difference between a drill and an impact driver? I already own the former, but do I *really* need the latter?
>>2932808Sometimes I need to drill holes.
ain't there a GOOD way to detect hidden dry (or wet) rot when inspecting an old house, particularly when crawling the foundation?https://www.dryrot.biz/fugenex.htmthese are supposed to be "installed" (drill into wood) to detect acid that dry rot produces.What about maybe running slim-jim up in wood and rubbing it on sensor?What about drilling a very small hole (like so the pesky RE agent listening at the hatch wont notice because of my loud banter and other noise) and testing a tiny amount of shavings?
It's as simple as crawling around the perimeter poking everything with a screwdriver every few inches. If the screwdriver plunges in, there's rot. Most sill plate dry will be under doors and/windows due to improper/no flashing.
Recommendations?
>>2943567I don't know anyone for whom more than two or three of those cathegories would apply, so yea. Pick the set of 3 that applies to you and make the call for one.
It's not a "multitool" in the sense of being a pair of pliers with swiss army knives for handes, but a multi-function tool I EDC is the gerber prybrid. I seem to use it almost every day on random shit around the farm>cutting net wrap on hay bales (dulls tf out of blades, replaceable blade preferred over ruining a pocket knife)>pry open latch on old rusty bumper pull trailer that wont let go of ball hitch on its own>scrape rust off a metal post to get a ground, pass blade across electric fence wire and watch for spark/listen for pop to check that fence is still live>can strip electrical wiring, have used it to make quick repairs in the field before>try to pull connection pins on portable corral panels, rusted in place. hammer grip and tap the bottom of pin w/ pry bar edge to break them freeit just werks
>>2943685I find Gerber products to be extremely hit or miss. They rely on that "oregon/colombia river pioneer" meme even though unlike leatherman only have stoners assemble chinese made shit in their "factory" in portland. They seem to nail those "3 in one" type multitools like the ones you posted, but holy shit they cannot make a liner lock worth a piss. To be fair I have never owned a "high dollar" one of their multitools, but I've never seen one worthy to buy except maybe that over priced "center drive" they're trying to one up SOG's center drive with (both are shit lol). >Inb4 some nitwit spouts the meme that the chinese made stuff for their cheap products and they save the american made ones for the expensive ones.Ironically I like Fiskar products more than Gerber products so just meet in the middle with the quality/price already you Finnish scissoring company. CRKT is going down hill now too. They can still make good edc flip knives but now they're branching in to exotic designer territory which is a big fucking no no and I worry they're going to go full nite ize with their product lineups while neglecting their knives.
apparently there are chinese ones that ergonomically deploy a large knife but also have pliers it's not one or the other like the usual ones and have useful stuff like ferro rods
>>2943759there are a lot of knife forward multitools that have pliers if you look SOG flash mt comes to mind
