I don't see any carpentry/woodwork general so making a thread. I want to do a multipurpose cabinet on wheels out of pine. it doesn't have to look professional but it needs to do the job. it's a stand for a PC case and other things. I want to mount it on 4 good wheels, it should be about 1.5m-2m tall (60-80 inches) and handle weight of around 40-50kg max (90-110 pounds). half of the weight will be directly on the base, rest will stay on 4 columns going around the PC. a bit above the PC will start the second half of the cabinet(or whatever to call it) that should handle the other half of the weight. the side doors of the PC case should remain accessible, that's why there's columns not obstructing the view. I need some tutorials or help on what techniques to use to make it sturdy and solid. by grabbing the middle, probably with a handle, it should all move on those wheels without being ripped apart. I want the thing to feel strong. are those metal connectors and glue going to be enough? I worry that 4 columns are just not going to handle grabbing 20kg by a handle and moving the cart. I might opt into some metal parts but I don't have the tools and space for proper metal work. thanks for any tips
here is a visual sketch of what I want to do. the lines are thin but the wood will be thicker of course. half the weight on the lower half, half the weight on the upper half. grabbing the cart using the red handle to move the whole thing. the bottom can be a metal grate so the air can move better. or just some extra wood for support
>>2888192Glue won’t help much on end grain and these corner brackets are pretty good but probably less stiff than you want them to be. What I would do is grab wood half as thick and glue 2 pieces together, leaving some space in order to make faux lap joints, and glue and screw those unless you’re willing to go through the trouble of cutting actual lap joints If you’re going with just metal, at least put a T plate on the face sides, that helps a lot
>>2888192>half of the weight will be directly on the base,All of the weight is always on the base :). The casters and where they connect should be fine though. Cubes do not like to be dynamic loads and the only way to make them cope is to turn them into pyramids or make one side solid. What's more important is doing some sort of diagonal bracing on the the sides and especially the bottom, though I take it you'll already make the bottom out of plywood so that should solve it. You should not need metal and I would stick with 2X3's or smaller cause the weight will add up and work against what you're trying to do.
i have a couple of stools made with 2x2s (more like one and halfs) and they hold my 70kg weight just fine without diagonal braces
As this guy >>2888690 said, 2x2 is enough for just your computer, monitors, etc. I wouldn't go over 2x3 for the frame. Anything bigger just gets heavier and you probably won't need the extra strength. The parts you want to be closed just use 1/4" upto 1/2" plywood to hold the frame together. For parts you want to stay open, cut the plywood into triangles and use that for the cross-bracing of the perpendicular members on both sides of each corner. Don't bother with the metal ties, they will always be too loose because the holes are bigger than your fasteners and the frame will wobble when you push it around. Believe it or not, the plywood bracing is way stiffer, especially 1/2" or higher (I've tried them both ways). For your application, I think 1/4" is strong enough and way cheaper. 1 4x8' sheet will cost you maybe $30 and you'll make dozens of braces. Those ties will be over $1 each and not do as good of a job. Get a drill and a phillips bit and a box of 1 or 1.5" screws and you're done. I made a half dozen rolling shelves out of 2x3 and 2x4 with 1/2" plywood bracing for all my tools and put them on 4" or 6" wheels. My favorite one is made out of 2x3 with 4" wheels. I put maybe 200lb on it and it is still easy to roll around.At the hardware store, the caster wheels are all overpriced for what you get. Buy what you think is best, but I bought "Headbourne 8269E" in 4". I've tried all kinds and these are the smoothest, quietest, and they go over bumps and rough pavers very easily. Only problem is they don't have brakes so I made my own chocks for them. Good luck on your project!
>>2889292Addendum, diagonal bracing with 2x2 or 2x3s into your frame doesn't work as well as plywood triangles (in my experience) because the toe-nailing or -screwing will half the time split the brace (on the ends where it is weakest) especially later on as it dries out. Also, instead of the loads evenly distributed over the triangle into the multiple fasteners you put through it into the frame, the loads/forces will be focused on the ends where you put in the toe-nailed or screwed fasteners. It will wobble when you push it around and eventually wear out.
>>2889292I forgot to mention, I had good luck with ordering wheels off amazon over the local hardware store.
>>2888192The metal angle brackets look tacky and function worse because they have narrow reach and all fasteners tend to push material out of the way making your 2x2s splitting prone. Go buy a dowel and an equivalent drill bit. Send the dowel and some glue through every joint, cut flush and sand or card scrape.
>>2889292Pocket screws or dowels are also a better option for making stronger joints.
