I bought a post-exposition nailgun in a bid, but it came in with an air leak. it looks new, but when I plugged it in to the compressor, there's a hiss near the trigger. it still shoots. Can it be fixed or should I just send it back? I'd rather not return it, because I got it for less than 20$ with a case and a few k of nails and staples
>>2887258Return it and buy a m18
>>2887259hate electric nailguns, sorry. they're always finicky and go to shit quickly, usually impossible to repair
>>2887260Have had the the m18 framing nailer and crown stapler for years and have used them a lot with zero issues.
>>2887265ok, maybe there's a rare electric nailer that works as intended, but the operation wil still be subpar compared to a pneumatic nail gun for a small fraction of the price, which will be much cheaper even including the price of a small 1-1.5 galon portable compresson and the batteries
>>2887299>compresson*compressor
>>2887258Disassemble and look for a bad o-ring or seal.
I know it's not one or the other, but for installing trim, should I get a narrow crown stapler or an 18ga brad nailer? I don't really have the funds for both right now (M18 batteries).
>>2887299The only thing true there is>cheaper
>>2887312ok, tell me how a nailgun that is ridiculously heavier, slower, less consistent and weaker is so much better than a pneumatic one
>>2887314Heavier but less annoying due to no air line. Quieter due to no compressor.Slower? M18 has bump fire which will put them down faster than you can be accurate with. Never had a consistence issue once. Weaker? Never had an issue with that either I think the crown stapler will drive 1 1/2 inch staples. The framing nailer is just as good.
>>2887322I didn't say that it's slow or weak, or that isn't sufficient for most applications, it just can't reach the pneumatic nailgun levels, which you claimed is untrue. a pneumatic gun will shoot basically as fast as you can move your finger and, without turning up the reduction, it will basically go all the way through the board. you usually don't need so much power by itself, but it translates to unparalleled consistency and adjustability, just an imprecise tap is enough, you don't need to keep it steady, there's no blowback whatsoever, which is a big issue with electric nailers. the real real drawback is the weight, it weights almost as much as a small compressor and a pneumatic nailer combined. an air line isn't a problem if you have a small battery powered compressor next to the nailer, which is more than enough and has many other uses than driving nails too
>>2887258Plug into compressor then look for the leak by holding tool under water. Once fixed, run it to blow it clear then run some oil through it to protect the valve and air motor. You can post pics of leak and find an online parts diagram or email the maker so ya know what's inside.BTW many workers use a CO2 rig to power their portable pneumatic tools away from shore power. I use CO2 often and not just for MIG welding shielding gas.
>>2887354>You can post pics of leak and find an online parts diagram or email the maker so ya know what's inside.I already found one:https://www.einhell-service.com/en_DE/4137790-tc-pn-50.htmlgiven that the hiss is behind the trigger, it cound be one of the 3 washers/o'rings. they're all out of stock sadly, but I'll be able to find some matching replacements
>>2887361>but I'll be able to find*but maybe I'll be able to find
>>2887361Sweet! O-rings are easy to source. If you have (most places do) a local industrial supply or hydraulic shop bring in the tool with rings and seals removed so they can hook you up. Another way is buying an assortment of Viton or Buna rings online for pocket change then using what works. Tool makers normally use standard sizes. You should have little difficulty sourcing parts and will learn useful things in the process.
