I have a copper 1/2 pipe with a temporary sharkbite fitting. I don't have the tool to remove it nor can I get my wrench on the pipe or behiind it on the plastic part to pinch and pull it by force. Do I absolutely need to pinch the plastic part of the sharkbite fitting to be able to pull it off, or can I just put a wrench or pliers around by the cap? I'm trying to avoid destroying a metal cover or cutting into drywall just to pinch the plastic to pull it off. Is it possible to remove these without having to pinch the tiny plastic part circled in the image?Plumbing is about the only DIY category that doesn't have its own general here for some reason. Figured I could maybe get the ball rolling with a question and a provide a thread where people to ask their own since I feel bad for killing a thread for just one question.
>>2870849Just cut it off. There should be enough play in the line to crimp it on to a proper fitting.
>>2870849>How do I remove a sharkbite without the thingTake apair of adjustables, set the jaws on the outside of the pex, push against the first plastic sticking out of the sharkbite with your thumbs. It will release.
>>2870849They don't pinch, they push in. If you have a piece of 1/2" copper pipe 1" long you can split it lengthwise, deburr it, then use that as the removal tool. You'll have to open it enough to get it around the plastic pipe then squeeze it closed again. Plastic pipe might work too, I just don't know how sturdy it is.
>>2870856>crimp>proper fittinglmfaolearn to solder, not difficult
>>2871095>solder pex2/10 for making me reply
>>2871139>I have a copper 1/2 pipe
>>2871472I must have missed that. It's pex in the picture. Either way sharkbites are bad and I would never use them.
>>2871513Sharkbites are okay. I've got some that are 10+ years old and still doing fine. I wouldn't cover them up, but if accessible they're fine.
I’m dealing with a back to back plumbing problems u see our sink. First the ptrap was knocked loose and weeks later we found the area had been covered in food slush and roach eggs. While fixing that issue, I must have knocked against the RO system and a pin leak formed due to old plastic tubes. A week later realized everything was soaked. So I’ve pulled out all the soaked mdf and drywall. I have a few questions I hope someone can help with. 1) when you work under cabinets is it possible to pull out the t-column or whatever? It’s a bitch working in that small cubby - is this just business as usual for plumbers? 2) the cold water turn off is nearly impossible to reach and is covered on the front by pipes. I’m thinking of sacrificing a vice grip to attach to it just in case there is an emergency sometime. Is there some kind of tool or alternate option here? 3) I’m not going to replace the bottom wood- the extra depth under the sink will be handy for storing stuff. Does this cause any plumbing issues? Like does the wood come in handy as a first stop for leaks or something. Is it strictly cosmetic? 4) my insurance agent said their most common house insurance claims are from RO systems. Anything special I can do to prevent breaks in the future? I guess replace plastic every 5 years or something ?Thanks
My water bill had a higher usage last month and I can hear the sound of running water in one part of the house. No water damage apparent. What do I do?
>>2871534I should add, this is a manufactured house from 1990.
>>2871517I strongly disagree. I avoid buying sharkbite brand anything because of the awful product they unleashed on the market. Sharkbite fittings should be illegal.
>>2871513>I must have missed that. It's pex in the picture./diy/ posting rules: Thou shalt not include a picture of your actual situation.
>>2871597Okay. Like I said, 10+ years, no issues. The only guys I've heard talk about them being completely horrible with no redeeming qualities at all are plumbers, and it seems to be related to profit. But they could have changed since I put mine in, so you could be right I guess.
Can anybody drop any good channels on plumbing from YouTube? Everything goes, even if it's just fail videos or something.
>>2871534Find it and fix it. It can fuck up your foundation. Time to tear open some walls!
>>2871606You should listen to the advice of plumbers when they're talking about plumbing. Sharkbites usually leak before 2 years pass and I've seen them fail a lot sooner than that.
>>2871732I don't actually own the house and plumbers won't work without permission from the owner. I don't want to deal with this but it's becoming impossible to ignore. The running water sound is getting loud. I'm a recluse and I don't want people judging my living space.It's a manufactured home and there's no water damage to the walls so I think the the pipe is underneath and it's the floor must be opened up. The sound is coming from right where the washer/dryer is.
>>2871606They will work in the mean time, but you're going to feel very stupid when you knew you had 30 minutes of your time to remove it and solder a proper fitting if it ever breaks and leaks all over your house for how ever long you're not there for.I've seen one corrode and break because an electrical line was on some of the copper plumbing and the owner was at work. He came back to a flooded living room and kitchen and a bedroom and had to call a mold company to fumigate the place just in case because water leaked through all of the wood studs in between the walls for 8 hours.
>>2871889Buy one of those lcd thermal cameras from Amazon for $100 and run hot water and see if any parts of your foundations are abnormally hot. Additionally, you can get one of those worm cameras for about $40 and drill a tiny hole in your drywall and run the camera through to see if you see any water. Once you're done, you can put them up on craigslist or fb market place. they usually sell pretty quick. Some plumber of tech will buy it off you for 75% the original price if you include everything and show them that you only used it once or for a very short time.
>>2871951That's a really good idea. I will buy a worm camera immediately.I am certain that no heat is involved because I already turned off the water to the hot water tank months ago.I'm tempted to quickly buy a reciprocating saw and simply rip through the floor to access the leak area. I could repair it, I'm sure, if I had access to it. No way am I crawling through a flooded crawl space. The running water sound is right where the washer/dryer is so if I ripped up the floor under those appliances, I could put it back without much cosmetic disturbance.
>>2871953You can also get a cheap $5 stethostcope too while you're at it so you can really really pinpoint where the sound is coming from before you drill a hole.
>>2870849Does anyone know what these valves under a standard hand washing sink in a bathroom are called and what size they usually are if they're on a 1/2 pipe? We're supposed to get 3/4 valves if the copper plumbing is 1/2 right? And are these usually soldered or are they twist? Are we supposed to twist left or is it twist right to loosen?
What's the best way to remove these little compression buggers if you don't have one of those removal tools?
>>28723951/4 turn angle stops. 1/2" to 3/8"
>>2872558you could try using a crescent wrench but you're probably best off cutting the copper back behind it. or just buy the tool, it's not expensive. buy it, use it and return it even
>>2870849Don't be cheap, just buy the plastic disconnect clip. Only a few bucks. Or, you can push an adjustable wrench against it.
>>2872395The one shown is a compression fitting. Loosen the nut with a wrench, then pull off the valve. Take it with you to the store to find one that fits. It is probably labeled "outlet 5/8 inch, 1/2 nominal."
>>2872558Cut the pipe and buy a new ferrule.
>>2870849>sharkbite>temporarywhy?
>>2872906So I can go buy the parts I need to solder a real valve instead of a sharkbite.
>>2872909They are good though. Rated for a couple decades.
>>2872910It can be, but I'd rather just solder and forget it and use the same sharkbite on other pipes that also need work instead of buying more of them. I've already used the same sharkbite valve on two other water supply lines.
>>2872906>>2872910Never trust sharkbite fittings.
In rural sandy hills on a well. Water test came back just over the "safe" recommended levels for nitrate and wanted to drop it down a notch. Opted to dock on a 2-stage filter, one for particulates, the other is carbon for nitrates and deflavoring.The upright galvanized pipe refused to budge, so I had to tie in on the low side. Added shutoffs on both ends to isolate the filters during service.Pressure is still good all throughout the house, and test showed reduced nitrate and even significantly lower TDS. Might still put in an RO under sink for cooking and drinking, but overall Im happy with my first minor install on a well system. Anything I missed? Hidden traps I should look out for?
>>2873067I've had one on for about 2 years and it was still fine when I took it off. It did have a little bit of green corrosion inside of it though, it probably would have still held for another 8 years or more. Regardless, it's a temporary solution and I'd rather have a permanent one.
>>2873385I would have gotten a bigger wrench and made that upright pipe move. Having those filters near the floor will be a pain when replacing cartridges. Normally, you would have a third valve between the two elbows you installed next to the valves. That allows you to shut off the filters and keep the water on to the house.
>>2873067All the guys ITT that have used them had no problems with them. All the guys ITT that hate them "know a guy" that had had problems with them. In other words, that's what the plumber's union told them to say.Never trust sharkbite fittings? How about never trust big plumba?
Stop me from making a mistake. I'm looking to buy a duplex. Inspection came back and is looking ROUGH pipe wise. Lots of corroded plastic pipes, some bad copper. Would need a lot of pex probably. I've also gotta replace two furnaces and deal with some routing of the vent from the washer/dryerHow big of an undertaking cost wise is it gonna be to hire someone to do that? One floor 2350sqft, 6BR, 2BA BUT it's all in the crawlspace. I don't know if all the copper needs ripped out, potentially just some section replacements, but what could a job like this balloon into? My agent was thinking 5k, I was thinking I could see this ballooning into 12k here in southern Colorado.I was thinking of low balling the shit out of them since I need to replace two furnaces down there too, and vacuum, but I'm struggling to determine if I wanna make a blind estimate or I gotta just stall out and get some more serious quotes for the work. Please and thank you.
>>2871949What does a live wire electrifying a pipe have to do with sharkbite? How is that sharkbites fault? Dumb gorilla nigger.
>>2873513>come on /diy/>ask how much its going to cost to hire some sleaze contractor to do these not very hard tasks for you
>>2873560I have no experience doing it. I was thinking it's easy to do myself and pocket the difference but I don't even know what's fair. I'm an electrical engineer not a plumber kek. Piss easy for me to estimate all the electrical myself
>>2873559Electrolysis corrodes copper and brass given enough time and will always leak. It always seeks oxygen for the reaction so it will corrode right where the plastic is. I've cut off many corroded MemeBite fittings from many weekend warriors's diy plumbing projects who are too sissy to learn how to solder like a real man and ended up flooding their roofs or bathrooms. Even a 12 year old can solder copper pipes just from watching a youtube video. No excuse to use a shark bite fitting other than to just stop water temporarily. It's a nice temporary solution.
>>2873685what about for pex? are sharkbites still a shitty solution for that because we throw a lot of them onto service lines at my job.
>>2870849Is there a correct and incorrect way to turn on the water main from the city after doing repairs? Turned off the water to cap a pipe, and now after I turned it back on, every faucet drips water slowly even though everything is turned off.
>>2874005No through electrolysis since it's plastic, but yes if you run hard water. I'd be more concerned about drinking and showering hot plastic water. I only run Pex if it's not my house or business, kek.
>>2874102did you turn it off at the meter or the main lol. I dont see how you could have turned it on wrong.
>>2874279Yeah. Stuff now just drips water out of every faucet. Nothing has changed other than removing a sharkbite and soldering a valve. It's strange.
>>2874280ive cut peoples water back on after they finally paid their bill and sometimes it does fuck shit up. one dude lost all pressure to his shed lol.
How do you build a hammer force arrestor?I've got some irrigation lines under mains pressure that suffer significant hammer force and are killing my solenoids. The cost of commercially made arrestors are significant, and I'm fairly confident that a pipe assembly will be sufficient, given that the solenoids themselves have significant resistance. I'm just not sure how to set it up, is it a simple as putting a T join in the pipe, a vertical tube, and putting something like a golf ball in that like a float?
>>2874756Why not use pressure reducer? Also chink hammer force arrestors are like $10, maybe get those.
>I am already about to peace out of this place for warranty of habitability reasons, but it'll be like 2 weeks Every so often, my fridge makes a loud "hissing" noise kinda like when a clothes washer starts filling. I don't notice anything behind the fridge or in my kitchen itself, and the fridge and freezer are still the right temps. The back of my fridge and kitchen is the same wall as the main hallway between apartments, and the carpet behind where my fridge is is completely soaked and the base molding is starting to swell. Again, I'm already leaving so I dont give two shits about fixing it or even notifying the landlord. Mainly I'm just curious as to what the problem actually is, and if it's some kind of safety issue to me for the next few weeks
>>2873685That makes it more obvious they are a long lasting temporary solution, not permanent.
dumb question, but here I am. Also fuck cpvc plumbing.a few of my toilets scream like a banshee when you flush them + brown/black deposits regularly form in the toilet. I imagine it's from some plastic residue slowly degrading from the fill valve, overfill tube,or the flapper. Am I dumb in thinking this? It looks pretty bad. I was going to buy some replacements and hope for the best.
>>2870849I like the fish logo :)
>>28715271) check the back of the T. It's usually installed with angled screws. Might have a hard time getting to them though2) not really any other options. It should be hand loose though3) you might want to just put something cheap and thin to absorb any possible water. Obviously the wood soaks up water so it doesn't get underneath4) you could get rid of that fucking useless garbage disposal
>>2874771it's your ice maker water line that got fucked up somehow
>>2870890>>2870849Fuck sharkbite.I tried that and the think kept leaking, I even got the tool to remove it and it just destroyed itself. It's just gummy plastic.I had to hit the copper pipe and took the shark bite hose with copper still in it for a refund
Guy who knows very little about plumbing here: I have a fault with my plumbing and I'm trying to diagnose if there's any way I can fix it myself, or if I'm going to have to pay a bunch of money to a plumber instead, if anybody's willing to advise me on it?I'm in the UK and have a combi boiler. For a few days now with no changes on my part that I can think of, suddenly I'm rarely getting hot water out of either the upstairs or downstairs taps. 80% of the time the tap water's cold, 10% it's lukewarm, 10% it's a normal level of hot.The radiators function as normal in terms of temperature, but if I set the radiators to be on then over the hours the pressure gauge slowly creeps up by about 0.1 every two hours. If I turn it back to just heating the water (which it isn't doing anyway) then the gauge drops back down to 1.5 but turning the radiators back on puts the pressure back up to where it was previously, which is now 3.5.I've had a look at the outside back of the house and don't see anything unusual, I've also had a look around inside the house and don't see anything unusual either. I don't think I've ever had this problem before and I've no clue what to try, but the last time I called a plumber they wanted to charge me so much money for a small fix that I've become a bit hesitant of calling one again unless I have to.
>>2876774rad pressure goin up is normal, but 3.5 bar is too high, poke the air valve in your expansion vessel and see if water comes outfor the combi gonna need make model and year, and ideally a video of the lights on the front panel while it's failing to start up.
>>2876828>expansion vesselThe what now?>while it's failing to start up.It's not failing to start up. Other than the pressure creeping up very high over time, there's nothing visually off with it at all that I've been able to see, everything looks completely normal it's just not heating the tap water most of the time.
>>2876852big grey metal thing on the right side, it has a rubber diaphragm inside seperatin the rad water from the air, air squashes and limits the pressure rise in the rads so they don't bust open.see a little valve on front? poke the valve core like you was lettin a car tyre down and make sure it hisses air not water.>It's not failing to start up.k.follow this youtube and post the 10 fault codeshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SOfDukmqjm0
>>2876865Just finished my project for tomorrow morning so I can focus on this before I sleep now.>see a little valve on front?Nope, not sure what you mean.>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SOfDukmqjm0>and post the 10 fault codes1 & 2: Low mains voltage (521 days ago)3: I missed what it was exactly but it was 2230 days ago.4 through 10 were 27XX days ago, mostly low mains voltage but two other things were in there too.I only got one chance to see everything and write them down, but figured things that happened 7 or more years ago weren't too critical to report back with.
>>2876910good shout, none of them codes matter.run the tap.if the display shows it's in hot water mode while the tap is only lukewarm or cold it's a stuck diverter valve.if display still says central heating mode, or the burner's not lit at all, it's the demand switch.your call whther to chuck parts at it or call a local mangood luck m8 i'll check in next weekend.
>>2876923Turned tap on, display reads "Hot water mode" and the water was pretty warm but not 100% hot, burner light was lit.A minute later, the water goes stone cold and burner light goes off. The display starts reading "fan post-purge".
Plumbing bros, I'm a plumbinglet. How do I winterize faucets? My parent's cabin is all pex, I drained the water, put antifreeze in the toilets and sink traps, and then when I went to turn it all back on all the faucets leaked. The cartridges in the faucets got all fucked. Luckily the sink ones fixed themselves after I took them out and back it (I dunno why) and the shower ones had a little metal piece I was able to hammer back into shape, but I'd rather not take them all apart again. Is there an easy way or should I just take the cartiridges out and leave them somewhere warm? Can't replace them easily, all nameless chinesium.
>>2876924Yeah, I've managed to get the pressure down now, but for whatever reason I can only get hot water when the radiators are switched on. When the radiators are turned off, so is the hot water for the taps.I don't fucking get it.
>>2877150diverter valves probably stuck matehttps://youtu.be/2lRBCcf-o_s?t=503
>>2877227Alright, time to finally call the plumber I guess.
>>2874103why would you drink hot tap water in the first place?
Wife’s been renting out her 70’s house to hoarders, trashed the place, gotta strip everything and rebuild.The bath/shower has been leaking, just a constant flow of water. The bathroom will be rebuilt later, but for now, we need to stop the leak so we can turn water on site back on.Here is a photo of the valve body, core was corroded in place.I’ve hacksawed the front of and removed it, local big plumbing supplier says they haven’t seen these cores in 20 years, I am looking at options to plug it up.Guy at the plumbing supply store gave me some rubber grommets to push in, but there is a small leak.I’m considering filling the entire damn thing with silicon, then pushing the rubber grommets in.other option would be smashing out the wall, cutting and squishing the supply pipes, and then soldering the top of them.I’d rather get this leak fixed as quickly as possible, without damaging the supply lines, as although the valve body is fucked, I can probably reuse the supply lines when its time to rebuild.
>>2877723here is what is left of the core, it has what looks like to be a separate slider inside with a piece of nylon on the end.if I had a piece of rubber with the same diameter, that would do the trick
>>2877723>>2877724Cut the supply lines further upstream and install ball valves. Every branch should have it's own shutoffs anyway and it's only due to cheapness that they don't. If you're comfortable with soldering it shouldn't take much time. Make sure to install them somewhere accessible.
>>2877738while I certainly will install those later, right now the only objective is stopping the leak. if filling it with silicone will do the job, that’s what I’ll do.Trying to work out if this idea is either tremendously stupid, or if there’s an even simpler answer I am unaware of
>>2876923>>2877227>>2877253Plumber's been, he wants £310 to fix the diverter valve and £380 to do a power flush of the radiators. About 20 min into his visit one of the pipes under the boiler started to visibly leak, something that's not happened in 7+ years now, he didn't mention that in his quote though.Question: is a boiler servicing supposed to catch any of this stuff? I had the boiler serviced by the same guy only two weeks before these problems began.
>>2877766You could just cut the supply lines off just before the valve and put sharkbite caps on
>>2878081Also since he's been, the boiler pressure has bottomed out the last three days in a row. That used to happen maybe once every few months at most.
>>2871513>I must have missed thatIt's the first sentence.
>>2878081>he wants £310 to fix the diverter valve and £380 to do a power flush of the radiators.Anyone? Is this a reasonable price to pay for the job?
Plumberbros, I want to install a bidet toilet seat after returning from Japan. Is the inlet side the direction when facing the toilet, or is it the side when sitting on the toilet? Also, due to my states regulations, I need a plumber to install it. Am I able to get a plumber to order the entire thing and install it or do I buy the seat and then hope everything works out?
>>2871949Report it to the real estate and then when it inevitably fucks up, the owners insurance wont cover it and he will lose any lawsuit for damages.
>>2870849Just leave it wtf lmaoooo Push fittings are rated as high as all the other ones, better than some even
>>2873685So you're recommending the plastic push fittings? Got it thanks
Is it possible for a thermostat on a tankless water heater (pic related) to be defective even though it tests good (0.01) on continuity?All 3 thermostats test the same (0.01) with power off, but with power+water on the (working) #2 and #3 thermostats read about 7.0 while the #1 thermostat still reads 0.01.Not sure if that means the #1 thermostat is bad or if it's just still reading 0.01 because the #1 element is cold.Trying to figure out why the #1 heating element is not heating, already removed and inspected the element itself, and the continuity test reads the same as the other two elements that are working. I first thought the #1 triac was the issue and replaced it, but that didn't fix the problem. I/O temps and flow rate all seem accurate and I flush it every summer (it's only 2 years old) so I don't think anything is dirty or gunked up.I'm gonna swap the #1 and #2 thermostats tomorrow to confirm if it's good or not, but tonight I'm just trying to find more info or ideas on the problem.
>>2875472The noise is probably the fill valve. The deposits could be any (or all) of the rubber gaskets, including the tank o-ring seal.
>>2879889those numbers don't make any fucking senseare you measuring a thermal switch (on/off), a thermocouple (millivolts), a thermistor (ohms), or a 1-wire digital temperature sensor (serial data)?
>>2870849Cut a slightly wider pipe in half. Cut off extra from either side. Use both sides to depress the innermost gold plastic ring into the T-intersection. While the gold ring is depressed, remove the pipe.Y r u ghey?
>>2876168Thanks. I just had to suffer with the T. I put in a 2 inch tall shelf of pine, and covered that with grip paper like people use on shelves. It’s water resistant and white. I cut a hole in the center and put a water sensor Down there, so if something leaks again I’ll get a notice. What’s wrong with the garbage disposal? It works fine. Or you just hate them on principle?
Was thinking of moving the water heater into the crawlspace as a future state thing. Not worth the trouble now because the water heaters are brand new and I'm not willing to delay renting this new place I just bought for it. But if I do that I can move the washer dryer to the water heater closet. Anyways, I was looking for water heaters that would fit in a crawlspace and I'm coming up short. Any ideas on what I'm looking for? How much would the plumbing to do that run?
>>2879976I'm measuring ohms.I guess it is a thermistor? The parts page calls it a thermostat.There's one of them on the front of each heating chamber, they connect directly between the heating element and the neutral wire with no connection the control board.
Sorry if I use the wrong terminology.I live in an old and tall apartment building.Every once in a while, one of three sinks in my unit drains extremely slowly.There does not seem to be a physical clog. If I remove all the pipes underneath my sink and pour water as depicted, water goes down just fine.If I reassemble everything and fill my sink with water, however, it might take hours to drain.All PVC piping is clear. The P trap is clear. I make sure to angle the final horizontal run just a bit downwards.The overflow is clear. I'm not sure if what I've labeled as the plumbing vent is related to plumbing ventilation, but I haven't messed with that before, and I'm not sure how it'd work in an apartment building.I'd just like some more eyes on this, and would appreciate any ideas. You can also call me stupid.
>>2879889Just to follow up; by process of elimination I figured out it must be the control board that is faulty.
>>2880078I'm not an expert, but in my experience that little Y junction under the sink connects to the AC condensate drain line.Or if it's a kitchen sink it may be attached to the dishwasher drain pump.Vent pipes usually connect to the larger PVC drain pipe inside the wall and run up through the roof.If you have confirmed that there is no clog prior to reaching the P trap, then I would guess that there is a clog somewhere else in the apartment building. Depending on the building layout, the other two sinks may tie in to a different drain line that bypasses the clog.
I'LL GET YOU NET TIME, PESKY PLUMBERS!
anyone got an idea what these types of pipes are called and what the estimated life expectancy is?feels like they're made of rubber and maybe 2-3 mm thick
>>2881742What do those go to? They look like the flexible gutter extensions they sell at Home Depot.They tend to not last more than a couple years, though I guess they might hold up better in an attic space.
Got an electric water heater that's not keeping up. I'll get hot water for about 10 minutes or so, then the temp drops to about luke warm. Both elements have continuity, lower elements only making about 3800 watts when according to the label it should be 4500. Would that be enough for it to be causing my issue or do I have something else going on
>>2882489Probably not, a ~10% difference should only result in ~10% colder water.
>>2882489This might be usefulhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bm7L-2J52GU
>>2871534an hero
>>2882489Do you hear something click on/off when the water stops being hot? Could be a bi metal thermal fuse opening because something got too hot in there. Is the current through the elements what the label says it should be (or lower)
>>2883052I have 2 central heating lines with clamp fittings that will be (in the current plan) be poured into concrete because the contractor overlooked them. I don’t want that so I’ll re route then and have them run over the floor.The question is, is it normal/useful to add a stopcock to them so that I don’t have to drain the entire system the next time I’ll work on them?
>>2883057Pic rel. Red is the top of the concrete, blue is how I’ll put the new tubes. Purple indicates the place where I could put two stopcocks/valves.Also what’s the easiest way to go about 1” up over that distance? I’ve never used a pipe bender before
>>2883090If you can help it, replace it with Pex-Al, then you can just bend it into whatever shape. If you have to stick to whatever that is, probably steel, then the easiest solution is getting a couple extra fittings. Alternate is to borrow a big pipe bender.>stopcocksShit's not expensive so if there aren't any nearby, you might as well.
>>2883093Thanks. It’s 22mm steel now and I always get lost in the jungle of pex products. I’d need 4x couplings alupex to 22mm steel and 2 runs of 2m (6’) of pex right?Most of the pex I can find is either 20mm or 26mm while the current tube is 22mm. Can I go 2mm smaller? Also would 22mm Wicu (not sure if that’s a brand name, it’s flexible copper tube) be a good alternative so I can use the standard couplers instead?I’ll look into pex couplings but I need it pretty soon so I hope the stores nearby have the right stuff.
>>2883108Make sure it's Pex-Al composite and not simple pex (pex-al has a thin aluminium layer in the middle), regular pex is shit for heating systems. >4 couplers and 2 runs of pipeYeah, the thing is fairly easy to flex so just get a bit more than the exact distance you're covering.>22mmIf you end up using pex, do not go under, get the 26mm. Reason being, the pex-al wall is like 3mm thick, so ID is very small. With copper the 20 wouldn't make a huge difference. If you have a boiler and no plans to do heat pump, then ultimately it doesn't matter much either way, but it's always better to get bigger pipes than necessary than the other way around.
I've had a sharkbite on my outdoor faucet for like 8 or 10 years and it's been fine.
test
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>bosch dishwasher doesn't get the water any more hot than the hot tap that comes in>replace the pump with heater with a new one>still same issueWhat else could cause this?
>>2883423Sensor? Control board? There are only so many parts in there.
>>2871095solder is shittier than pex fittingsget experienced before you give advice.
>>2883052Only gives me wattages on the rating plate, but I took current draw and did math to get my low wattage
>>2871953Nigga what a short stint in the crawl space is going to a lot faster than drilling holes all over the place. Can lay out plastic first too.
Combi boiler seems like it's on its way out after 20 years. A few weeks back the thermistor went and it started thinking it was at 70C ambient, after draining to fix that it started leaking from the PRV, after replacing the PRV it held pressure for a few days, now I've checked it after a week and it's lost half a bar. After filling this morning it's dropped 0.1 bar over about 12 hours.I can't find any leaks around radiators, under the boiler where it was dripping out the PRV is still dry this time. Any idea where the leak could be?
>>2884872Is the expansion vessel alive? Automatic air vent?
should i diy my own gas plumbing
>>2884965Diy all the other plumbings, but gas I wouldn't.
>>2884985i'll make it all external so if there is any leak it just escapes into the air and inside the kitchen you could smell or get some cheapo sensors
>>2884965Its not hard, just don't hook it up to anything and get a test gage hooked up to it. Press it up to like 20-30 pounds and let it sit overnight to make sure you don't have any leaks. Can even get track pipe from home depot/lowes and it'll make life much easier. Look up pipe size/length charts to figure out how many btu you can run off different sizes of pipe
Retard messing with a faucet for the first time here, how am i supposed to take this apart without damaging it?
>grandpas kitchen sink draining very slowly >no blockages in the trap>rest of the plumbing in the house works fine>boiling water, baking soda and vinegar dindu nuffinany suggestions?
>>2873685>>2874889>That makes it more obvious they are a long lasting temporary solution, not permanent.No, that picture is an example of sharkbites used wrong. You need to put a grounding wire across wherever you put a sharkbite. Old houses use the pipes as grounding points, stray current happens and if you don't put a standard pluming grounding wire across sharkbite connections, then yes they will disintegrate, but that's your fault for not following instructions. A wire and grounding clamps costs like $10 and take a minute to put in. Next time do it right.
>>2880165Thanks for the information.It helped narrow my search.
What is the term for the horizontal rails used in this image? I want to basically replicate this setup 1:1 for my softener and filter
>>2888511Mounting rails, c channel rails or in industry stauff rails.
>>2888511personally i call that unistrut but that may be a brand name colloquialism
>>2888524>unistrutTHAT's what I was looking for. thanks anon!
Visiting my parent's place for the first time in a year and their water pressure is significantly weaker than last time I was here, at minimum 40% weaker. What the fuck do I do or check to fix this? Its every water source in the house
>>2889200do they have well water? is there a whole house filter and/or softener? is it both hot and cold water?
>>2888511>>2888524it's just called "strut" or "hanging strut"and you want strut clamps that are compatible with your pipe, don't use galv clamps on copper pipe etc
>>2885843run a small drill powered snake through it if you can, or just pour half a bottle of liquid plumber down it and see if that helps
>>2883423model number? what happens when you try to run a sanitary cycle?
>>2873385should have replaced as much of the galvanized pipe as you could with pex, and don't use brass pex fittings, they also can get torn up by the well water
>>2888511alright anons, critique my schematic. The top view is more or less a top-down view of my crawlspace (which is more of a crouch-space). The foundation block wall transitions to framing and (the insulated backside of) drywall a few feet off the ground in the crawlspace (the drywall is that of the garage, which then has stairs up into the house).In short, this means the penetrations from the crawlspace into the garage (where this filter/softener wall will be) are just punching through drywall. What's my best way to protect the pex as it comes through that penetration? I don't think there's a fire rating concern since the garage still isn't considered part of the exterior envelope; it isn't a firewall.The lower view is looking straight at the wall in question, obviously. Looking to see if I missed any fittings or valves anywhere. I've avoided adding 90-degree fittings wherever I can, and so only 2 are added to the nominal flow path (plus the tee where the loop hooks back into the house supply.
My first floor bathroom has weak water pressure, and I have a water tank on top of my house, so shouldn't be enough pressure?Honestly, the water pressure pump booster isn't working, and I'm not sure if I should replace it or not, since this seem to burn away after few weeks.Don't know if it's really air in the pipes or not.
>>2889379>>2889379every single fixture in the bathroom? just the one room on that floor?
>>2889380My bad.I mean all fixtures in the bathroom since it's all connected to that tank, and the fixtures in the small atrium as well.
>>2889384no problem, just trying to help diagnose (i have no advice to offer and am just a lurker noticing your question was unclear)so in your situation, the water tank on top of your house feeds numerous rooms, but on the "first floor" (are you european, and thus your "first floor" is not the "ground floor"?) there are only two rooms, a bathroom and an atrium, that are having crappy pressure
>>2889379More than likely you have an issue in your piping somewhere. Damaged or scaled over pipes, or valves that don't work well or aren't fully open. Check the faucets also for any filters that might be getting clogged.
>>2889389Yeah, east Europe.And no, first floor is first floor, not ground floor.It's weird plumbing for this building. There are 3 tanks on the roof.A: Feed the kitchen and the the bathroom in the ground floorB: feed the 1st floor bathroom, and the atriumC: is extra storage, and can be diverted to either A, or B, and feed the water heater.Don't ask me why.This is how I got it.Only fixtures connected to Tank B have this issue.I had the water run for 30 minutes and nothing improved much.>>2889390I couldn't find any leaks, and the pipes are PVC, shouldn't be scaledproof?>valves that don't work well or aren't fully openI checked.I know Tank B run dry, because the main was shut down.so I'm pretty sure that some air leaked into pipes.The facets are fine, nothing seemed to be clogging it.
>>2889391Is there anything pulling on tank B or C? Creating a vacuum or something like that (against the direction of flow), maybe parallel pumps.
>>2889393>parallel pumpsNo.Pic is how it look like
>>2889395Well you might just simply not get much pressure if the tank is only ~3 meters above the faucet. What's on the other end? Is that a heat exchanger, the one with the twirly thing inside? How does water come up to tank C from the twirly thing?
>>2889207City water, no softener or filter, both hot and cold
>>2889396>simply not get much pressure if the tank is only ~3 meters above the faucet.Well, it was fine before the tank run dry.I bought the water pressure boost pump, and it worked, but it burnt in few weeks.>a heat exchangerThe water heater, it's electric.Sorry, I'm not aware if there's specific way to show it or not.>How does water come up to tank C from the twirly thing?It doesn't.Tank C supply the water heater.>9000 hours in paint
>>2889400Check all valves. Disconnect the line beyond the very first valve that comes in and check if the water pressure there is good or not. If it's not good there, there's something wrong with the supply. If it's good there, you have to go through all lines and find obstruction, presumably it will be near the inlet since all faucets are affected.
>>2889401Ogey, I get it. How does water go into tank C? Which tanks (if any) are open vented (are the lines going up from the T-junction on both sides open vents?), or is the whole system closed and pressurized?The hot water is good in the upstairs faucets, only cold water is low pressure?
>>2889404>How does water go into tank CSeparate pipe from main.The house has two different mains, one supply Tank A&B the other Tank C.>re the lines going up from the T-junction on both sides open vents?Yeah, both vented, there is no vent valve, just open to air.>The hot water is good in the upstairs faucets, only cold water is low pressure?yes.Which is the only good advantage of this setup
>>2889406>The house has two different mains, one supply Tank A&B the other Tank C.How does that work? If tank C already supplies A and B, why do A and B have separate supplies? And how do A and B not overfill if they are supplied by mains and are connected to open vent pipes?That aside, air in the pipes is probably the best guess. You could try reverse flushing or powerflushing the pipes.
>>2889408>How does that workWell main 1 supply tank C, main 2 supply Tank A & B.There's valve between C & A and C&B to pass water, and tank C is higher than both.In fact Tank C is above both on some support.>how do A and B not overfillThere's this inside.>air in the pipes is probably the best guessOk, what to do?I've let the water run for hours and still low pressure.> reverse flushingHow to do that?>powerflushingWhat do I need?
>>2889364I think I have source all of my fittings without having to take a single trip to home depottotal for fittings and valves and whatnot is ~$200
>>2889439> reverse flushingConnect pressurized water eg. from C or main supply to one of the faucets, push water out the open vent.>powerflushingPowerflusher thing. Basically any fairly large electric pump that can push water hard.You can also try to completely drain and refill the system with a couple faucets open.
>>2889465i bought the pex tool. this fucker is hefty.
>>2889468>Connect pressurized water eg. from C or main supply to one of the faucets, push water out the open vent.I tried this.>connected facet that has main supply to one of the facets that's connected to Tank B.It improved things a bit, mainly in the atrium, but the fixtures in the bathroom still has weak pressure.>You can also try to completely drain and refill the system with a couple faucets open.That was the first thing I tried.
