Looks like Autel is going to be the cheapest option for thermal drones. Maybe DIY.

>>2865516
The video that picture is from is what got me into the hobby to begin with - it's nearly 10 years old now!

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Is pic related a good starting point for a Ukraine larp replica?
https://rotorbuilds.com/build/26940

>>2865949
Sure, I guess
Make sure to strap a replica Mark 83 to it when you fly around

>>2865949
Spray paint a Nerf football brown for added effect.

>>2865949
Let me know if you actually want the DXF files for the frame itself.

If I use a 6s battery with motors that are rated for 4s will they go ouof control?

What is the cheapest drone I can get to lift my dslr camera (600g) ? Diy kits are welcome

>>2866145
Realistically it will cost way more than buying a DJI, especially a used DJI. And the DJI will give you better results.

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anyone know how I can get the smell of an electronics fire out of my buggy? my esc popped and the entire thing smells awful.

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>>2866193
Time heals all wounds

>>2866177
IV seen dji videos on yt the dynamic range is ass, it’s basically on par with an iPhone
I want something I can use professionally

>>2866262
There are many good reasons why you will struggle to find anybody flying DLSRs on DIY drones these days. There's just no practical place for it.

For basic stuff a Mavic 3 gives you 12.8 stops in a package small enough to fit in a purse.

If you're a real professional & you need better than that, the Inspire 3 shoots 8k in ProRes raw with 14.7 stops. The Inspire 3 is getting a lot of use on TV/movie sets these days.

If even that isn't good enough, then you're into the territory of cinema cameras on something like an Alta X.

For your DLSR, once you've bought a suitable gimbal, HD downlink, wireless follow focus, etc. plus built a drone big enough & reliable enough to actually carry it, you will have spent far more than the price of a Mavic 3 or a decent downpayment on an Inspire 3.

And even if you get your frankenstein setup to actually work, it will never give you results as good as you get from the DJI stuff - because there is so much more to getting good footage than just the specs of your camera. This coming from somebody who used to do precisely this sort of stuff for a living.

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I'm using analog goggles from skyzone, but all I have are the stock linear antennas like from a router. And it's not great. What's a good (omnidirectional) setup?

Tempted to just get a two pack of lollipop stubbies and hope for the best lol

>>2866290
get one circular polarized and one patch antenna. That will give you one good all around antenna and one directional, assuming you mostly fly in front of yourself.

>>2866290
a router will have RP-SMA. usually all the analog stuff will have plain SMA
if you want good antennas, and don't take a gamble, go with the brand names like TrueRC

>>2866305
I'm flying all around my own location so omni is better, but is there any advantage to two omni antennas?

>>2866324
What style(s) should I look for?

>>2866339
I second TrueRC. Assuming you have diversity or signal mixing, get one of their Core omnis and Biquad 5. They'll both let you flex them into a good spot.

Is a 5Ah 6s battery around 750g too much for a 7 inch built around the aos 2807 1400k?

>>2866414
Nah, it'll lift it fine. I lift a pair of 4.2Ah 6S Li-Ion packs at 480g a pop on 1300kv. My all up weight hits 1590g and it has plenty of kick left. I even tried a pair of 4Ah LiPos at around 600g each, and it still did fine. Gets me around 16 miles of total flight distance.

>>2866418
Did you make your li-ons or buy them?

>>2866261
ripip my esc and rx

>>2866111
yes please, nice trips tho
>>2866092
will do if i figure out the project, i'll show it there

>>2866305
Polarisation & directionality are separate. A patch antenna is still either linear or circular polarized.

>>2866339
>is there any advantage to two omni antennas?

Yes, because you can mount them in different orientations. An omni has a doughnut shaped pickup with nulls at the 'top' & 'bottom'. Mount one vertically & the other horizontally.

>>2866483
>yes please

Realised ofc I can't upload a zip. There's a link to my site on my RotorBuilds profile, go to the Projects page & the files are there.

For that first design the DXF files are a mess because they were converted from SketchUp models (that design was before I moved to Shapr3D) but I never had any hassle from the CNC place. The files for the later quad design are cleaner.

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After getting my dead RC car batteries that didn't want to charge recharged by my local hobby store, I realize I need something to measure the remaining charge when i'm out in the field.

A reader doesn't require energy since it just take power from the battery it's measuring right? My current dual-charger doesn't have an interface or display but it gets the job done. I have two 7.4 volt lipo batteries that I plan to take out with me, and since I had no way to read it and little experience I would just run it til my battery dies. It's unfeasible now. Can anyone recommend a brand, model, or product code for some kind of voltage reader that is preferably lightweigh? I take the train everywhere and my Rustler itself has some weight to it.

>>2866423
Mine were DIY packs made with a 3D printed rib and 6 Molicel P42a cells each. They could've been lighter, but I wasn't as experienced with 3D printing when I made them.

>>2865516
I have started work on building the I-153. If anyone is interested, I will show pictures sometime later.

what's your favourite short course body in terms of looks? can't decide for shit

>>2866612
pro-line axis sc, flow tek fusion, and the arrma mojave 4s
baja bug bodies look fun too, if you want something different.

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I got this new lightbar on my rc car because I wanted to be able to drive it at night (or at least be able to spot where it is), spent 30 minutes wondering why it would randomly turn on or blink in a pattern when using channel 1/2 when I had it in VCC. Turns out that signal cable had a reason for being there. It’s a multifunctional lightbar for crawler guys who like when the lights dance around and flash here and there. Well after plugging it into channel 3, it finally works how I wanted it to. Have yet to make a frame for it but I’m thinking of making a triangle or rectangle out of 2mm aluminum bar/plate. If you fellas have any other ideas of how to fit it, I’d like to hear them.

I have an old quad with a naze board and separate ESCs that I'd like to get flying. There's some FCs out there for like $20, would one of those and a PDB get me up in the air?

https://a.co/d/cjpG3dt
https://a.co/d/2jRJsYL
https://a.co/d/8SM5Vod

>>2866509
>A patch antenna is still either linear or circular polarized.
Didn't realize that. Learned something new.

>>2866521
just get something like this.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/204129321593

>>2866675
Amazon isn't a good place for hobby gear. Don't be surprised if you get a no-name chink board (there are different tiers of chink shit) and it falls from the sky for no reason.

>>2866509
thanks, that’s more than enough for me. also, what FPV goggles + radio controller combo would you recommend?

>>2866766 (me)
Forgot to add, i'm on a tight budget, so the «justasgood» option is preferred.

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Behold the latest in doohickey technology

I combined the headpiece of an unknown prototype Chinese "TV glasses" I got from my electronics professor way back in 2012 with a series of adapters of varying jankiness to an eachine rx58pro running Achilles and a buck converter set to 4v.

It actually works so at this point I think I'm basically obligated to make a circuit board to stick it all together properly.

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should I get a Radiomaster mt12?

I don't want to spend nearly $400 for something like a flysky NB4+ and a few receivers.

What cheap thing can I buy to directionally locate radio signals? i.e. my quad when it's lost in long grass. 5.8ghz, 2.4 and 900mhz for the video and control link too.
I already have buzzers and beepers and GPS on my biggest quad but sometimes things just malfunction. (the last time the battery went down to about 2.5V, video cut out but I still had my crossfire link for some minutes before that died too)

>>2867262
radiomaster radios are generally god tier, I don't know anything about their car ones though

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Not a drone related question as such, but I figure you guys know all about this. How do I into Li-Po batteries? I want to use a small battery (pic related indicative) but how am I supposed to charge it? All the charging kits are for the legit RC planes with batteries the size of a brick. Seems overkill

>>2867484
They make an adapter for these 2S micro batteries. 1S batteries have their own special charger.

>Captcha: YG0YKD

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anyone else attempting to copy starfield and build a DIY cruiser/drone?

i am having a hard time getting it to life sized, and the stores aren't providing what my family needs.

i have solved everything mathematically and engineering wise, but i am having a hard time putting the materials together. mental blocks and the likes.

reaching levitation point is quite hard for me and i could use some advice; thanks

>>2867471
>I don't know anything about their car ones though
yeah, I have a Boxer its been good. after reading a bunch on the mt12 is seems to have some issues due to edgetx and elrs being designed around aircraft needing at least 4 channels where surface only really needs 2 most of the time. along with an issue were the RX disconnects under certain circumstances and can cause a runaway.

I guess I'll just keep researching it.

>>2867484
you need to determine if you are using a 1S (3.7V) or 2S (7.4V) battery and what type of connector it's using. 1S batteries can be charged with a board like this: https://www.adafruit.com/product/4410

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>>2866193
I've only ever had a shitty "Surpass" from Banggood do that, what the fuck made the Spektrum go boom?

>>2867698
dunno, I was going 60-70mph through a field, stopped to let the motor cool off for a couple mins then went to go again and it blew as I pinned the throttle to full. it killed my rx too.
to their credit, horizon did warranty both.

>>2867747
>60-70mph through a field
Were you using the 20t pinion? Bad luck about the esc but at least it was warrantied, my esc fan died but the esc itself is one of only few original parts still on the Typhon. You won't really get rid of that electronic smell either, one of my 3s LiPos still smells like that burnt esc 2 years later.

>>2865516
What's a good starter kit on aliexpress? Choice day sale going on now.

>>2867751
>20t pinion?
yeah. I mainly run 100mm hoons on it, didn't feel like swapping the pinion for one pack.
>my esc fan died
funny enough my fan lived through that little fire, I soldered on the 3 pin from the dead esc and it cools the motor now.

oh btw if you have the spectrum programmer update your firmware on both. they put in an option for setting the LVC sometime after my first one was made. didn't know till i got the replacement and my programmer required an update.

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>>2867788
Do you have a fan and heatsink for the motor? So dumb the Typhon doesn't come with one stock when just about every other 6s in the line does. I learned my lesson after my first motor died to install one and to take it easy on the 20t, give it a rest every couple of minutes.

>>2867792
yeah I do, ARA390299. with the fan it touches the body which isn't great but it works. what cooling setup do you have on yours?

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>>2867793
I had a Surpass heatsink with dual fans but it was garbage no matter what I tried and it all still got too hot, I ended up with the same heatsink as you and put a 40mm Rocket on it along with a 35mm Rocket for the ESC and it runs much much cooler. I can't rate Rocket enough, even after 20+ bashes they both spin silently to a stop at the same time when you turn it all off.

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>>2867689
I want to run an Arduino, which needs 7-12VDC.

Are these charger boards legit?

>>2867801
for lithium chemistries you really need a balance charger for any cells in series.

I'm not sure if it'll fit your use case but those chinkshit diy power banks that take a bunch of 18650 in parallel claim they do 12v 1.5a

>>2867801
no, buy a balance charger. Unless you're going to use individual 18650's (li-ion not lipo) and you can remove them to charge them.

>>2867801
They'll work for awhile, but eventually your cells will fall out of balance and you'll risk burning your house down. Treat your lithium cells with respect or they'll fuck you up.

i know its not a diy drone but is the one-hand controller included with the Avata 2 worth using? I really dont want to spend 200 bucks on the traditional 2-stick controller.

>>2868339
>$200
Sometimes I need a reminder why I didn't choose them. Apparently the motion controller is fairly intuitive. Never used it myself, but it's probably fine for DJI sorts of flying.

Is there any merit to setting up a ground station when flying fpv?
I'm used to industrial autonomous vehicles, where we have a central server and you hook up with thin clients
Couldn't I get better signal by hooking up some big ass antenna on the roof of my car instead of on top of my head?

>>2868502
There's three major reasons ground stations aren't popular for FPV pilots.
1. It's a lot of shit to drag out.
2. Most people don't fly far enough to warrant any special antenna wizardry.
3. High frequency signals fall apart fast in a wire, so anything more than a few inches will rapidly degrade before it hits the receiver.

Unless you plan to fly a long ass way, don't bother and save the hassle.

>>2868560
Ah, that must be why all the ones I've seen online had the receiver box hanging all the way up the boom
I'm in powertrain rnd so I know nothing about radio, I assume it's not a simple case of "bigger is better"

>>2868639
The only place bigger will matter is in terms of gain. High gain is a very effective way to grab more signal, but it's much like the zoom on a camera. If you don't aim it, it's gonna make it worse instead of better. I'm going to be rigging an antenna tracker soon, and hang my digital receiver from that. Got some 13dBi patches for 20x signal, but it's crazy easy to look the wrong way and go blind for a moment. Best to make a machine aim it correctly.

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>>2865516
hey /rcg/ i was out in the woods on a run with my doggo, and i found this.

can anyone tell me what transmitter i need to get this working ?

how can i charge the battery?
i tired plugging the battery into my airsoft battery chargeer, but it charges super slow.

the main computer that everything in plugged into is AR637TA

>>2869810
Honestly, if you have a transmitter already, just get a compatible receiver and stuff that in there. The ones with all the 3-pin connections all do PWM, so it's just a matter of hooking up channels the way you like. Best not to box yourself into an expensive brand like Spektrum. Get a cheap ELRS controller and receiver. You'll thank yourself later.

Speak of the devil, I just looked that thing up. It's a Spektrum receiver. I mean, it should work, but there's better stuff for far less money.

>>2869833
im guessing the place controller is the transmitter? and the sbc on the plane is the receiver? So what receiver should i get, that would work with what i have?

>>2869810
>AR637TA
this is the receiver. It is not a computer, it is just receiving the signals from the transmitter (the controller that you hold in your hand) and makes the motors and servo on the plane do what you tell it. You could get a Radiomaster transmitter and receiver and replace the one that is in there, or get a transmitter that is compatible with Spektrum. This will not be as simple as plug in the plane and it magically flies, someone already lost this one.

>battery
It's dead. If it was stuck in a tree or something while plugged in the battery would have been drained below the minimum voltage and it won't hold a charge again.

>>2869857
As you'll likely need 5 channels for that, you could grab an ER5C-V2 and a Radiomaster Pocket (ELRS version has the right transmitter module built in). Both are cheap, yet quite capable. If you go that route, be sure to pay attention to the voltage you feed it. That module will do 1-2S voltage, and the dead battery is 3S which will smoke it. A $5 5V regulator will step it down. Used one of those guys in my FPV tank. I don't like naming brands because shills fucking suck, but these are things I've personally used for years and have enjoyed. Spektrum offers very little that most people need, yet costs twice as much. It's a boomer brand at this point.

>>2869863
>it won't hold a charge again.
doesn't hurt to try, give it a stupidly slow charge till 3.3v per cell.

>>2870028
I find that dead packs like that just make heat and discharge themselves.

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>>2865516
Are there any open source projects that make drones and open source controller with arduino?

>>2870117
Are you asking if there are open source pieces of hardware, or the software itself?

>>2870157
yes

>>2870117
Drones outgrew 8-bit microcontrollers many years ago. Everything is STM32 based now.

>>2869870
>>2869863
>>2869833
Thanks for the help guys, im gonna order a new receiver and transmitter and will keep yall updated in the future.

>>2870462
Best of luck to you! If you have questions, please ask. ExpressLRS can be slightly tricky at first, but it's rather easy once you clear the initial hump. I check in here several times a day most days.

>>2870339
I don't know much on the hardware end, but I do know that the three major pieces of flight controller software are all open source. Betaflight, iNav, and ArduPilot are all publicly available. ESC stuff is also heading in the open source direction.

Whats a good second plane after the sport cub s2?

>>2871280
What do you want the plane to do? It's like asking what a person should have for lunch after having fried eggs for breakfast.

>>2871360
LoS flying in medium sized fields. Something that handles light wind better but will also let me slowly take off the training wheels and fly full acro.

>>2871526
You could try an AtomRC Penguin. It's a pretty capable foamie that will keep flying at rather low speed, and seems to have very good stability. If you wanna go faster, the Dolphin is highly praised. I've got one of those, but constantly wish it was a bit slower and smaller. Just too fast to fly the local pasture, so all I get to do is turn. There's also the ZOHD Dart 250. I enjoy foamies due to the ease of repair. A little hot glue and it'll fly again in 15 minutes, no matter how fucked it was.

>>2866712
Update: I got what you linked for super cheap. It lets off a loud ass beep when I plug it in.

My lipo batteries are about 7.6volts. Now that I can measure the remaining juice out in the field, what should I run them down to before I swap them out and charge?

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Bout to transition this old naze32 quad to betaflight with a $13 piko clone lmao, too bad it doesn't have an OSD

>>2871657
Shoot for 3.7-3.8 per cell. You've obviously got a 2S pack. You appear to be at 3.8 now, so you're good.

>>2871657
don't go below 3.2V per cell, 3.7V is storage charge, 4.2V is fully charged. Just cover the speaker with a finger when you plug it in. You can also leave it plugged in while you're driving and it will start beeping when the voltage gets low.

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few retarded questions incoming:
when you buy an FPV camera like Wolfwhoop WT05 it's just a camera broadcasting the video, right?
how do you get telemetry data on screen like pic related? do you connect the camera to a flight computer or something?
and how do you record that video? do you need to recieve the video on a computer and record it there?

>>2872193
>Wolfwhoop WT05
that's a cam and VTX in one unit so you won't get OSD on that
but yes, normally you connect the flight controller, which you'll need in quads and which is also usefull in planes, to the VTX. in digital systems
in analog systems the flight controller sits between cam and VTX and will paint the letters in the video stream before it reaches the VTX.

you record on the goggles and some digital systems can record better video on the airframe itself

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>>2871858
Brain transplant complete.

Time to find an sbus receiver, and load it up with betaflight.

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>>2872223

Well... It did come with THIS receiver, but I have no idea what kind it is.

Back has pin labels for some of the pins. ch1-4, Vin, mclr, pgc(?) , pgd(?), gnd

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>>2872224

Maybe if I just wire up the wire stubs on there to the ppm input?

Guessing it's ppm, but I'd still have to find out what radio protocol it uses.

>>2872193
FPV cameras come in many flavors. There are analog cameras that do composite video like the yellow plug on the back of your TV, AIO units like the WT05 you listed that pack a VTX, and proprietary digital cameras that only work with their respective systems.

To get telemetry, you must inject it somewhere before sending. With analog, you just feed the camera signal into something with an OSD chip, and most flight controllers have such a chip. That will then go to the video transmitter and you'll see it baked into your feed. On digital units, you will be sending OSD data via MSP Displayport through a UART. That will then be transmitted to your digital receiver and superimposed onto the video feed.

For recording, it depends on the video system used. Most systems have a DVR at some point. Analog tends to do it on a set of goggles or handheld panel, and digital tends to have a DVR on both the VTX and receiver. The difference with most digital systems is that the OSD is saved as a separate thing and must be baked into the video afterwards if you wish to share it that way. Screen capture with a capture card technically is possible, and can bypass re-encoding of a digital feed for OSD. Bonafidepirate on YouTube does just that.

>>2872224
Heaven forbid they put a panel on it so anyone knows what it is.

>>2872313
>panel
Don't ask what happened. I meant label.

>>2872196
>>2872312
Thanks anons, I think I'll use a AIO like that WT05 and a 5.8Ghz monitor for my first build with FPV, just to keep it as simple as possible, so no OSD for now.
It's gonna be an airplane with no flight controller, but I can just connect that camera to battery power and it'll work and transmit, r-right?

>>2872372
Assuming your battery falls within the specs your AIO will handle, just feed it the direct battery voltage and watch it go.

I went to the specs page and that unit is rated for 3.3-5.5v. Unless your plane uses 1S power, it'll cook that thing. You may need a 5v regulator to go in-line unless there's a BEC somewhere on your plane.

>>2872372
the ESC will have a BEC. the one you use the power the servos. (5V)
video will get noisy because of them but it could power the cam/VTX, too. or get a seperate BEC for that.

so you're fine. but an OSD and a flight controller make life so much better (battery charge displayed, GPS, speed and rescue mode, ...). consider it for your next plane

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Here are the parts of the Shahed Iranian drone.
Can you ID them?

>>2872421
They're using amphenol mil circular connectors on a budget cruise missile?

Why so ritzy?

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>>2872313
Google reverse image search actually delivered for once and I found this. No manuals or anything but apparently it's a 7 or 8 channel FlysKY ppm receiver by dasmikro, which should be enough information for me to use it, if I can figure out how you bind it.

>>2872431
>amphenol
More like aliexpress.

>>2872377
>consider it for your next plane
which one would you recommend?

Is it know the parts used for the FPV drones in the Ukraine war?
I'd like to make one. Without the bomb of course.

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anyone here fuck with rc helis

>>2872493
nta
I like to go with Matek, Speedybee, or Holybro for my wing controllers. They're all pretty good.

>>2872535
They use whatever they can source, depending largely on supplier availability.

There is plenty of coverage showing the stuff, so we know it’s the usual hobby parts that we all use - Brother Hobby motors, iFlight frames, AKK VTX, Radiomaster radios & receivers, APD ESCs on the bigger stuff.

They manufacture some of the larger frames in house, but the <10” stuff is all off the shelf.

thinking about going from single motor to dual motor for the first time
do I need a special dual ESC or allah forbid two ESCs? or will some sort of ''wire split thingy'' suffice

>>2872705
You need one ESC per motor. How else did you think it would work?

>>2872535
https://docs.google.com/document/d/19LejXNlQ35-0y9LKt--BWHSI-XWoirszsX8IvB81nEA/edit?tab=t.0

>>2872718
one ESC and then split power wires for two motors?

>>2872722
>>2872722 #
Nope. An ESC has to perfectly sync the power to the motor’s three separate windings. If you split the outputs from an ESC to two separate motors, it will instantly desync.

Even if you did magically manage to get two motors to sync perfectly on one ESC, you wouldn’t have independent control of them which largely defeats the point.

>>2872725
that means I have to somehow split PWM cable from receiver that normally goes into single ESC into two cables for two ESCs, right?

>>2872794
that, or even better separate throttle outputs so you can do differential thrust

>>2872047
>>2872066
How do I know when it’s 3.7 per cell?
The charger already says each side is 3.7 and it’s fully charged, it says the whole thing is 7.6. How can I run it down and switch battery packs when it’s already at the level you guys are suggesting? What am I missing?

What is the default voltage level that these alarms go off at? Does it depend on who is selling it or is it all the same factory/source?

>>2872995
check the sticker on the back of the buzzer. In the ebay listing it shows it alarms at 3.3V per cell. What is your charger set to, are you sure it's set to a LiPo Balance Charge? Because 3.7V is not fully charged, it should be 4.2V. The nominal voltage is 3.7V, a lot of the electric stuff in RC has stupid naming conventions. You can run it at that voltage, but the batteries have more storage space in them.

>>2872995
7.6÷2=3.8
When a battery pack is in series, you just add the voltage of each cell together. You can get the average by dividing by the number cells. There is one exception to that however, when cells are wired in parallel. Parallel cells add their max current together instead of voltage. For example, if you have a pack wired in a 2S2P configuration, it would have a max charged voltage of 8.4 and would have 4 cells in total. Finally, 3.7-3.8 per cell is storage voltage. It's a low charge level that will degrade your battery the slowest.

I'm having an issue with my drone where it has really laggy inputs
e.g. I shut off the throttle and it takes 500ms or so to actually reflect that change in flight, or I counter-roll but it just keeps rolling in the same direction for another half-second
>axisflying 2.5 cineon
>elrs 2.4ghz
>tx16s
>los flying
>most recent betaflight
>angle mode
Angle mode also likes going tits-up and suddenly going from 30% to 75% throttle during a gradual increase and I don't know why that is. All of my curves are linear so I'd expect a smoother increase than what I see. It looks like airmode might be the culprit since I'm flying inside, so I'm going to change that and see what happens
When looking at the model in Betaflight, all of my inputs are immediately reflected in the program, so I don't understand where the disconnect is

Aside from airmode, does anyone have some recommendations for what settings I need to look into?

>>2873393
Update;
Airmode change didn't really change anything
Seems like the receiver is missing packets. I had the drone flying in a box, caught it against a wall, disarmed, but it still took a second for the disarm to go through. Input lag still happens; sometimes it will ramp up the throttle smoothly, while other times it will jump between values
Likely related to tx power in my 2.4ghz saturated neighbourhood, albeit I find it weird that it's a problem from like 2 feet away
>tfw can't fly outside in a "clear" environment because everything just got coated in snow

>>2873393
I doubt this is the answer, but it's all I could think of. What is the CPU usage showing as in Betaflight?

>>2873455
When plugged in it’s normally less than 70%, usually 55%-65%
One thing I did notice is that the flash space(?) in the top right corner reads 0 MB but idk if that’d impact it (or how to fix it)
I’ll have to look at my tx power again because I’m pretty sure I turned it down during setup. That’s the only explanation I can think of for weird delays provided there isn’t a hardware issue (which doesn’t appear to be the case based on responsiveness in Betaflight receiver) but at the same time I don’t know why it would be fine when on USB and fail when pulling from a 4S
It’s annoying having it slam into my ceiling while I disarm it but at least I have prop guards. Probably damaged the lipo based on the surface texture so I’ll have to kill that, rip

>>2873455
>>2873496
Might be related to the PID loop (need to move to 4k), DSHOT setting, or softserial as a complete guess from a Betaflight issues on Github from earlier this year, https://github.com/betaflight/betaflight/issues/13290
I'll try again in the next few days and see if any of those settings might be related.

>>2873496
Your CPU usage is too high. Shoot for 30%. You're idling at 65%, so imagine what it is while it's flying. As for your flash, that's going to fill anytime you fly. Unless you're trying to tune, you can safely ignore it. Otherwise, wipe the blackbox before flying, then extract it and use the blackbox tool.
>>2873525
This guy is spot on.

>>2873779
Gotcha, I thought sub-70% was okay based on a Bardwell video I watched re: every tab in Betaflight. I didn’t have any issues before so this is good to know
>tfw both posts are me
I’ll go to DSHOT300 and 4K PID loop, will probably know if it fixed everything come Saturday

Ty for the help frens

>>2873814
It probably varies between processors. I have one build where I used an F411, and kept having weird shit like OSD elements disappearing and shaky flight. Turns out, having a GPS really adds a lot of load. Ended up needing a 2k loop and minimal filtering to keep it happy. This was with it reading 40-50% at idle, and afterwards I got it down below 30%. As a last resort, the CLI often has options for slight overclocking. You can speed it up by 10-20%, but it'll get warm faster.

>>2873855
I was already at 4k PID loop and DSHOT300
PID at 2.67khz is ~45% load and @ 2khz it's low-30%. DSHOT remains at 300.
I'll try @ 2khz and if it's responsive then it all works out

>>2873905
Even 1k is fine if you're not some ace quad pilot. Been flying for 4 years and I don't even feel the difference.

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>>2867799
arrma stole your idea anon, it's now a factory feature

>>2873984
I stole the idea from the Arrma forums/a Youtube comment any way, good it's now a default design though. Is that the new EXB Kraton?

>>2873991
Kranton/Notorious v6, here's the vid that screenshot is from.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PAx-a5Q0Uok

>>2874115
Well fuck me, didn't know the V6 was even dropping, I've been thinking about a backup 6s basher recently too. The question is do we want to be guinea pigs? the last few EXB's kinda sucked especially the Kratons and Outcasts.

Hey Bros, I'm building my first quadcopter and I know I want to go digital. Originally, I was going with Walksnail Pro/L but now I'm hesitating.

Should I instead get an Integra/O3 or keep waiting for the "supposed" N3/04?

>>2874802
I'll give you a list of pros and cons for each.

DJI Pros:
-Better picture and range.
-Hardware is usually of higher quality.

DJI Cons:
-Faster product cycles, breaking compatibility sooner so you need to spend faster.
-Worse at communication when stuff is wrong.
-Much more brand lock-in.

Walksnail Pros:
-Usually cheaper.
-More variety in products, making them flexible for big and small builds.
-Better feature list for support of OSD elements.
-Parts are cheaper.
-Can be used on a larger variety of goggles and displays.

Walksnail Cons:
-Caddx keeps releasing half-baked products.
-Durability is lacking on some units.
-Image is comparable to previous gen DJI.


IMO, they both really have work to do. I use Walksnail, and while the system is plenty performant and can reach miles of range out, they also make me facepalm constantly. DJI makes what feels like Apple products. Decent quality (usually) but they're all up in your face with the walled garden and try to make people buy goggles every couple of years. Budget was my main concern when deciding.

Hope all this helped!

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>aim camera down
>see my bald spot from 100 feet up
>aim camera back up

>>2874892
The real reason boomers hate FPV.

>>2874878
Thanks friend!
>Budget was my main concern.

Yeah I’m in the same boat. Did you go with the walksnail l/x? I see bardwell was complaining about the latency with the l. Is it as big of an issue as he says?

Would you (experienced) people recommend the Zorro from Radiomaster to a complete beginner, or would more traditional form factor controllers be better?

>>2874998
transmitter form factor comes down to preference. boxer, pocket, or zorro would all do the job just fine.

whats the lightest unibody frame that fits at least 3" props

>>2874970
I already had a set of Sky04X goggles, so I got the HDMI module. I don't have ultra reflexes, so I don't feel significant latency. The Goggles X have had so many issues that I really didn't want to throw money at that either. You could try the older Fatshark set, but if you need service on them, you might be SOL as the parts aren't in production anymore. Wish I could test on the Goggles L to see how it compares.

>>2874911
Meanwhile, I wish my baldness would hurry up and complete. Give me my chrome dome already!

>>2874998
My issue with the Zorro is the tiny ass batteries. Would recommend the Pocket that has effectively the same features, bigger battery bays, and half the price. It's really not a bad radio controller if you're a thumber. Get a box style with lanyard clip if you pinch.

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>>2875049
The 8-bit Nebula Lite is like 8 grams. Managed a sub 100g digital cruiser with it.

>>2875126
(I'm not >>2874970 btw)

>The Goggles X have had so many issues that I really didn't want to throw money at that either.

Really? Even with analog?

I haven’t spent any money on the hobby yet, but I was interested in buying the WS X because it seemed like the best option for me. It offers analog video, appears to have decent aftermarket support (TrueRC offers some directional antennas), and I need the diopter adjustment.

I avoided HDZero because some people said it’s designed for racing, whereas my priority is long-range cruising.

Are box goggles my only remaining option? Some models seem to work with glasses, but if they end up costing around $300 USD after customs, I might as well go for the $500 option.

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any good BNF on sale? I kinda want something bigger than my meteor 75 pro

>>2875530
>Even with analog?
That was actually one of the weakest points. Not sure to what degree they've fixed it, but it had silly issues like displaying fake TV snow when the signal got moderately weak, some analog modules not working at all, and having added latency. On any other analog system, signal degradation goes fuzz, worse fuzz with no color, barely being able to see, and then completely gone.

Other issues include one of the displays overheating, the built-in head tracking system not working, and the built-in Bluetooth and Wi-Fi don't work. I was all ready to jump onto their system, but new problems appeared every other week. I've decided to see how their next goggle does a month after release. Who knows when that will be?

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>>2873040
>>2873029
here's the back of my battery. It says the default is 3.3v. Is that for the entirety of the battery's charge, meaning both of the 2 sides are at 1.65v each?

That seems too high a threshold for a 7.4v battery. My main concern is dropping the battery too low where my charger won't charge it for safety reasons and I need to take it back to the hobby shop and ask the RC guy to use his big-boy charger again. What would be the safe threshold to run them down to? 2 volts?

my battery is a solid brick. there's no tape covering it and there are no visible cells and I can't feel any in there either. it's like the AC adapter block on the nintendo wii.

>>2875869
Each pin of the connector on the left connects to ONE cell of your battery, so the tester can read the voltage of each cell separately.

When any one of the cells (or maybe the average of all of them) drops below 3.3V the alarm will sound. Which for your 2S battery will mean the total series voltage will be around 6.6V when the alarm sounds.

>>2875869
The S means series. Multiply the individual cell voltage by the number of pins -1. (because 1 pin will always be ground) LiPo battery cells are generally 3.3v to 4.2v. Going outside that range is damaging for the battery. Under 3.3, the battery will rapidly degrade, and over 4.2 you risk explosion or fire. If you have a 2S pack, double that range to 6.6-8.4v.

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>>2865516
Hello everyone! I have a little experience with electronics and programming microcontrollers, so I thought about getting into the whole drone hobby. I just wanted to ask how restricted that hobby is? If I use pre-configured firmware for flight control like this "betaflight" thing, will it somehow restrict my ability to fly by default? I often heard about "telemetry" in drones, so is it like a telemetry for the drone pilot or something that is broadcasted by the drone itself? Can regular software in off the shelf parts somehow phone home if it detect any misbehavior? I don't want to sound like a /pol/ schizo, but I find those terms kinda confusing. Thanks in advance!

>>2876235
any DIY drone will not have any restrictions on where you fly. Telemetry is just the drone sending data back to you on the ground so you can see things like battery voltage and current draw. Usually these are in the on screen display so it doesn't need to send the data back anyway since you're viewing it with the camera footage.

>>2876256
Thanks a lot, anon!

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>>2876235
>if it detect any misbehavior?
as far as I know, no. telemetery is for logging, screen OSD or sent to your transmitter for voltage/link quality etc. picrel
if you're required to, in burgerland with a aircraft >250grams, legally you'll need to broadcast remote-id https://drone-remote-id.com/ that can be tracked locally if there's hardware in the area to pick it up. also for some radio transmissions, analog VTX mostly, as they're not FCC certified you'll need a HAM license but, a lot of people don't bother.
if you plan to make money off anything related to you flying you'll also need a FAA part 107. people have been fined huge amounts without it.
the glownig laws are annoying but, I'd rather inform new pilots now rather than them finding out later and panicking or get fines up the ass. the above only covers usa cause that's all I know so just research legal bullshit for your country.

>>2876264
Thank you. I am europoorean and I had this idea of building an open drone with no restrictions or anti-features a while ago. We have plenty of similar restrictions here and they will probably get worse over time. My idea for the project was a drone that will help the people in hard times, be easy to repair and wont glow. I am really glad that you all answered so fast!

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>>2876275
best of luck with your project anon. look into iNav, ardupilot, edgetx, and ELRS too if you haven't already, they're all FOSS like betaflight.

What's a good starter plane for fixed wing FPV? My experience with fixed wing flight is very little, so I need something I can practice with regular non-FPV flight.

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>>2866521
>that image
>mfw I am a dumb INTJ

>>2876436
A Bixler or similar high wing pusher.

>>2876436
AtomRC Penguin is probably a good choice. Also, if you don't have a hot glue gun, pick one up. I like to use a DeWalt and Surebonder tough stik to patch my foamies. Was an absolute lifesaver when I was learning, and that glue doesn't degrade quickly under the UV light of the sun. Can snap your plane in half and have it flying again in 15 minutes.

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Is it normal for RC vendors to give incompatible components the same part numbers?
I bought the FMS 1:24 Range Rover, and it is great, but after shredding a gear in the rear axle I ordered the exact part number from CHINA only to find out it is incompatible and won't fit. Apparently there is a V2 axle assembly/casing and the gears are completely incompatible with the V1 but use the same part numbers.
And I can't find the old V1 gears anywhere (old being relative, I only bought the thing last month).
And FMS are not responding to my email.
/rant

>>2874998
I love it for its compactness but maybe others are just as good. Yeah the battery life isn't as great as bigger radios. Charging every couple of flight-days instead of every few weeks for me.

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thinking about grabbing one of these
elrs and analog rtf so matches my current gear
anyone know any other cheaper rtf elrs 3-4 inchers?

>>2877292
Darwin is about the cheapest brand out there unless you go with nameless stuff off of a Chinese store. They're supposed to be decent. Give it a try.

>>2876684
>incompatible components
the only thing I'm aware of is is the early brushed arrma grom plastic diffs, hot racing made some diff outdrives for it and doesn't quite fit right on the "upgraded" v2 ones.
did you buy from FMS or just some chinkshit clone?

>>2877441
yea from FMS. There's others on the official website complaining about the gear too. Seems the only option is to buy the entire V2 axle case.
>$15 shipping for a $4 part