>It's my birthday, suck my dick.Last Thread: >>2821786>Your print failed? Go to:https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/>Calibrate your printer.https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.htmlIf that doesn't help you solve your problems, post:>A picture of the failed part>Printer make & model>Filament type/brand>Slicer & slicer settings>What printer should I buy? [32/03/90 :detadpU tsaL]Do your own research, these are just popular and available options.All controversial printers and brands have been removed from the list for your safety.DIY: https://reprap.org/wiki/SLA: >>>/tg/3dpg>Where can I get things to print?https://www.thingiverse.com/https://thangs.com/https://printables.com/https://grabcad.com/https://www.yeggi.com/https://cults3d.com/https://www.stlfinder.com/https://google.com/T*legr*m>What CAD software should I use?Free to anyone: Fusion360, Onshape, TinkerCAD, FreeCADFree to me: Autodesk Inventor, AutoCAD, Solidworks, Rhino, Solid EdgeAutistic /g/oobers: OpenSCAD, OpenJSCADMesh free-forming and modeling: BlenderArchitects: Sketchup>What slicer should I use?For everyone: Cura, PrusaSlicer, BambuStudio for Bambu owners.For enthusiasts: SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicerFor autists: Pleccer/SuperPleccer, Kiri:Moto, FullControlLegacy Pastebin (Last updated 1321 days ago): https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5 (embed)#351
enabled elephants foot compensation for the first time on these prints, multiple parts held by pegs, everything fits perfectly, id usually need to do alot of sanding and carving to get friction held 3d prints to stay together but this needed none, dont know why i didnt do this sooner
Do you guys have static electricity shocking you when you remove prints?
>>2827082>what is triboelectric effectIf you get a shock the air in your room must be quite dry, otherwise you'd just feel the static. Doing a bed-wide first layer test and then peeling it off always generates tons of static, but I never got it to arc over.
i just found out reusable desiccant exists. anyone got experience with it?
>>2827104repeating the question from the previous thread:I have a TPU question.I've figured out I need a bigger nozzle and print it really slowly(I'm using 1mm nozzle at 25mm/s) as well as disable print cooling, but I have 2 issues to resolve and not that much filament to do it trial and error way.First of them is wall adhesion, the layers of the wall easily separate, this is not that big of a deal for what I want to do with it, but I want to know how to fix it for when I will need it to be strong.Second is probably related - the top surface lines are way too thin to well, form a surface. It's kind of a mesh instead.
>>2827107sorry didn't meant to quote
Should I upload makes of my own models? Dunno if it's a good idea, to get more eyes on it, or a bad idea because it's seen as spammy.
>>2827107it looks like you changed to a bigger nozzle and forgot to tell the firmware what size it is
>>2827107Assuming it's not >>2827124, check the flow rate visualiser in your slicer. If the roof is flowing somewhat higher than vertical slices that aren't underextruded, that could be your problem.Also maybe measure e-steps per cm of filament specifically with TPU at the mm/s speed you're printing at, and use that for a TPU extrusion multiplier instead of an esteps value.
it's coming together, man
Mini 13 is done yay
Guys how can I have different starting positions for sparse infill? Archimedian chords produce this gap at the same spot on the entire z length on this inner tube. I already tried it together with extra walls. Is there some randomizer like for seams? It would be perfect if only for such setting
>>2827147I want more information.>What are you slicing?>Why Archimedean infill on the inside?>Why 97.5%This all makes very little sense to me.
>>2827075happy birthday anon
>>2827152archimeadian is fast and comforts the tubes well. I tried 95% and upped it to 97,5 for this test, maybe i've to dial back to 95ish. I calibrated my flow and checked e steps, but I run this e3s1pro at 150mm/s print and 5000mm2/s acceleration and it prints less accurate and either 99 to 100% infill or all walls instead causes too much over extrusion at a certain height.>start infill at different pointssomething like this would be exactly the setting I need but can't find it
>>2827158Perhaps if you adjusted the Sparse Infill Direction it might start at a different location?
>>2827147Have you tried just rotating the model?
>>2827161doesn't do anything>>2827173you mean, place it in at a none straight angle? Gotta try it
>>2827154very pretty shork anon
Short version:Is there any way to take a 3D scan of an object and work with it in Inventor or some other parametric design program the same way I would work with any other purely parametrically derived model? (Ie, one that was created from the ground up in Inventor without a scanner)More detail/context:I have a box and multiple irregular shaped objects I want to put into the box in a secure and organized way by printing square/rectangular-ish shaped inserts with irregular-object-shaped holes in them. The idea is that the outsides of the inserts are shaped to fit the box just right, and the inside of any given insert is shaped to hold a particular object just right.Normally I would just take measurements of the objects to create a model of them (or more specifically a negative/outline of them) but like I said the shape is not easy to do that with. (lots of curves, specifically curves that blend into other curves where its hard to see where one starts and the other stops, and I don't know if the curves are circular with a constant radius or if they are elliptical or even possibly some kind of equation curve. What is the best way to model this?>>TLDR: How do I get a 3D model of an object that is an epic pain in the ass to manually measure into Inventor or some similar program? Can I use a 3D scanner and somehow convert the mesh into something I can edit parametrically, or is there some technique I dont know about for measuring pain-in-the-ass curvy things?
>>2827179Also I know about and have the plugin for inventor that lets you take an imported closed mesh in an stl file and converts it to a "base feature" but unless I'm missing something that just makes each triangle, edge, and vertex in the mesh into geometry you can create a sketch off of, it doesn't seem like it actually lets you modify it in the same way you could with a purely parametric part, ie if you create a sketch above the mesh-derived "base feature" and extrude a rectangle down halfway into the solid made from the mesh and tell it to cut/remove anything that extrusion touches, it doesn't seem to actually do that for some reason. Am I just doing it wrong or is there some fundamental limitation?
>>2827179You would have to do some work to get a usable model, generally using some sort of reverse engineering software.
Has anyone printed a PC or Pi case yet? Fractal have released this open source one which looks really neat. I don't need a pi sitting around like that though...>>2827122Are you so desperate for prusameters?If you have nice looking prints of your model put them as additional photos.Also send link
>>2827179>>2827181I figured it out. Stupid mistake thats cost me like 3 days.In order to make a base feature that is editable like any other solid in inventor, the mesh that it is generated from must be manifold. If it is a non-manifold mesh, even if you *tell* Inventor that you want a solid output, it will fall back onto outputting a non-solid feature consisting of a collection of faces. (It does not tell you that this happened, so if you are like me and have never seen what a successful operation looks like, you might not realize it)It turns out that even though the main body of my mesh was closed, I had like 2 vertices floating and disconnected from the bulk of the mesh, and therefore the entire thing was considered to be a non-manifold mesh by Inventor and it was unable to create a valid solid from it. Using blender I was able to identify these few rouge vertices/edges and delete them, then imported the now fully manifold mesh into inventor and made it into a solid which I was able to cut and modify as desired (more or less). Only issue is that its rather slow to process, but I don't blame it considering the sheer amount of geometry it has to work with. Only way this could get better is if it could extrapolate some kind of smooth curve from the edges/triangles, but I actually might have an idea on how to do that. Even if that doesnt work, this should still be perfectly fine for me I think.
>>2827075i only plan to print high quality minis. is there a site that uh, provides .stl files for stuff from myminifactory and other premium sites at a *heavily* discounted rate?
>>2827211>>/tg/3dpgLurk more.
>>2826976Anything over 20€ imo, I know a lot of people here get rolls at ~$10 but I'm assuming that's just americans
Ive been running an ender 5 plus for ages. Has a ufh hotend and a 0.6mm nozzle. Sometimes its great, but about half of the time the print quality is shit and the dimensional accuracy isnt really there. Should I break down and buy a A1 mini or tinker until I get good print quality.I dont care for the ams system, so $200 for quality print parts sounds really nice. Especially when I factor in that itd easily take me over 20 hours of time to get consistent quality from my ender 5.
>>2827273bought 5kg creality pla+ for 45€ recently. While i'm a complete beginner I can only say it prints ok, read that many hate creality brand filament. printed evolee and DnD stone arch in the op pic, it's that creality white pla+
>>2827122>>2827189>PLA, PETG and ASA all cost the sameLmao.>125 different designs killing it to get a PrusaHow does that compare to Bambu? I know their system could be duped for a quite while, but I'm too much of a freetard to bother.
>>2827292just buy the a1 mini. I have two a1's and two p1's. My ender needed a nut replacement so I sold it for $100 and never looked back. My failure rate on the bambus is extremely low. If theres ever a first layer issue its because the bed hasnt been cleaned. No more bed leveling for me.
>>2827147try enabling 'apply gap fill'
>>2827292What board/firmware are you running? Usually the biggest drawbacks on older machines these days.But yeah, if you don't need the size, don't mind the chinese proprietary outcries, then $200 will get you quite a nice machine.
>>2827292It feels gross to buy into the chinese proprietary garden but with how smooth it works it's a compromise I'm willing to accept. Getting a bambu actually made me want to design and print stuff and work on projects rather than dread it because the printer was a project itself.
>high-end bedslinger>doesnt have tie-rods to stiffen the gantryi do not understand
>>2827411If you mean the Bambu A1 Mini, it's not a high end bedslinger. It's a cheap bedslinger that swings well outside of its weight class, like the original Ender 3 did. It's the march of progress in 3D printing and we should be grateful for something that "just werkz" without a Prusa price tag.
I have been printing a part with a brim on an A1 mini with a clean PEI plate. Im using one of those multicolor silk filaments and prints are basically welded to the plate even after cooling. I feel like im doing something wrong. It takes me 5-10 minutes to get the brim removed by meticulously getting a slight edge peeled up with an exacto blade.
>>2827425Sounds like the brim is unnecessary.
>>2827450Every time I have printed without the brim I would get a part failure. Clean plate and all.
>>2827425what filament?waiting till the plate is cooled?pictures so we can see why you are retardeduse this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2475185
>>2827419I meant the A1 more than the mini. The mini is small enough to get away without it. But also other high-end bedslingers like the, Prusa Mk 4, Ender 3 V3 (the coreYZ one), that sort of thing.
>>2827153Thanks, anon, it was good.
>>2827145I found him rough because the designer flattened the back of the balls to compensate for printing but it came out as flat half balls and the legs fell off. I printed the torso and hips several times. I've had a lot better luck making my own joints.
>>2827154>>2827178that's a whale dummy
>>2827211nope.
>>2827273got a few $9 rolls in a sale recently. lots that was $16 last time is $13 now, seems like the only thing in my life that's not going up.
>>2827075I feel like this is a dumbassed basic question that I've somehow missed in years of printing, but here I go:Moved up to a .6mm nozzle for the first time, sliced something up in cura, print time looks longer than it should be but w/e. Get it going, printing fine, but it's taking like... long pauses in printing where the head just sit still and it seems like the extruder is catching up to the flow rate. Is there a setting I missed or something? Like, it's printing ok, but it's not really going any faster than it would if I was using the .4 and it's a little silly.>>2827425As long as it's not something that takes 6+ hours to print you probably don't need a brim. An alternative precaution is maybe glue stick. Usually used for adhesion but it also gives a layer to keep from hard bonding when that's a problem. I feel like that kinda sucks though.
>>2827503You set the new nozzle size in your firmware/on your printer interface... right?It doesnt 'go faster'. It should take less time in total, but *if* your volumetric extrusion rate is limited in firmware/slicer then it may be doing all its moves a little slower than a smaller nozzle. That said; it should have slightly fewer moves to complete.You should probably do a volumetric extrusion test to figure out how fast it can spit out filament at 0.6mm and make sure something like that value is in your slicer.
>>2827503ie:
>>2827494agree, the ball joints were sorta fucked and I had to adjust the sizes a few mm so the limbs stay stiff. thought it was my printers fault (gonna apologize to it now).
If /g/ doesn't talk about 3d printing, /tg/ only cares about toys and /diy/ just fixes their FDM machines. Where do people talk about modeling/cad?
>>2827539>where do people talk about modeling/cadmaybe /cad/ in /3/ is what you're looking for3dprinting questions go here
Can't you apply fuzzy skin one side of a shape like this? If you add a modifier shape and apply fuzzy skin, it seems to be just cropping the shape using modifier volume and apply fuzzy skin all around that cropped volume, even the faces that it cropped
>>2827556looks like a bug to me
>>2827556whats even worse is that if i reset the modifier to do nothing by using thew reset thingy... it seems to usually work, but if i just reset the fuzzy skin option to none, it still fubars the print
>>2827556>>2827563>>2827564Known issue.https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/issues/9787
I'm making some replacement parts for an out-of-print tabletop game I enjoy. Any chance one of you who knows what they're doing and has a 0.4mm nozzle on could do me a favor and check my measurements? I want to make sure I got my tolerances okay for it to print on other peoples printers before I post it online.https://filebin.net/hfflrd7dosxb7pa3/test.stl
>>2827593These are the measurements I'm trying to get. The link is just the one piece.
>>2827565https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/issues/6881>2021Jesus, I hate this tranny devs
Doesn't bambu send your gcode files through their chinese servers before making it to your printer. And if so why?
>>2827598Too busy removing buttons from the UI in preparation for the PrusaSlicerPremium.>>2827606Nope
>>2827079Kek, congrats on the ball collar working out.
can someone explain to me why there's so many 3d printing troon youtubers? they're also tied to retro stuff
>>2827644oh wait I think that's actually a real woman nvm
>>2827644Fumes causes hormonal imbalance and mental issues and eventual trooning. I hope you are well ventilating your room while printing
>>2827644Real woman, this is just what a 28yr old white woman in Florida looks like. She's had more sun in her lifetime than a 60y/o Guatemalan roofer.
>>2827543My age may be showing, but since when has there been a /3/? I really wanna say i never heard of that before, assumed everyone here either did small stuff or didn't want their printables related to 4chins.
>>2827652She's 54.
>>2827686Florida years*(Real Years - 1) x 2 = Florida Years(28 - 1) x 2 = 54
>>2827593I will in a bit, what game?
>>2827556https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/12r0ccf/found_a_neat_trick_to_paint_on_fuzzy_skin_using/
>>2827565So change a setting orca doesnt have.So I can see how it works in a project file which isnt supported by orca.Its like orrca AND prusa a re trying to piss me off now.>>2827606oh shut the fuck upwhere does this innane bullshit urban legend even originate? Whoever started it needs to be slapped in the head.
>>2827594Printed it and measured it with my calipres and it looks fine, in spec for my printer.
>>2827465That scraper seems to be the solution. Was able to get the brim off much easier.
Can anyone take a look at thishttps://anonymfile.com/AWq57/cookie-jar-lid.stland tell me if I fucked up. The Cura slicer is saying this thing is gonna take 21 hours to complete, but I made it hollow on the inside. Is there something that I'm missing to tell it to just do wide-spaced grid infill or is this right because of the size? I have an Anycubic Max 2.
Also I made this for my kid brother
>>2827787Check the layers to see what it is printing?
>>2827788Cute, any feet pics of the brother?
>>2827787I get 2h34m on my bambu with pla.
>>2827785mhmm, designed for the purpose.Once you get that that couple of molecules that is the edge of the razor under the print its easy.Just make sure you always use it flat on the bed; don't be tempted to lift the fat end and accidentally slice your bed.Also, pushing it even just a tiny bit under a few corners of the print will work with less effort than attacking it from only one point. And flexing your build plate after releasing any brim 'corners' should immediately release the print.So long as the print/plate is cool it should self-separate, or be extremely easy to do with blade and or flexing. 50C is usually when i hear my petg prints snap-crackle-popping themselves free.
>>2827797Well I'm not printing it yet, just looking at the slicer. I think it wants to print it as one solid block. How do I not do that?>>2827799Really? The fuck.
>>2827787It's absolutely huge by normal printing standards and my settings for an ender 3/Orcaslicer are showing ~13 hours.Your handle needs more meat to it. It looks unpleasantly thin and weak compared to the rest of it. Does the lid really need to be 20mm high?I remade your lid in OpenSCAD because autism and at the same settings it would take an extra hour were it not hollowed out.https://pastebin.com/uWEfeXZs
>>2827801Post screenshots of cross section. Even if it somehow assumes the middle part is solid, it would show up as infill, not as a solid block/layer
>>2827801With supports i get 4h11m, the inside is full of supports.
>>2827803>>2827804I'm retarded, how do I do a cross-section?>>2827802W-what is this? What do I do with this?
>>2827805I don't know in curaslicer but in orca there's a bar on the side in the interface that lets you scroll down by layer, on the right in this screenshot.
>>2827805>W-what is this? What do I do with this?Step 1: Install openscad (openscad.org)Step 2: Save the spoilered text in this post as a .scad fileStep 3: Open that .scad file in openscadThat's it. Since it's CAD I can adjust things like height and diameter of the mesh on the fly and since I'm not that retarded the model adjusts itself accordingly. But I am retarded enough to not set something right and not make a half torus like I wanted so here's the updated code.[spoiler]$fn=128;lid_bottom_height=10.6;lid_bottom_diameter=114;lid_top_height=10;lid_top_diameter=165;handle_thickness = 10;translate([0,0,lid_bottom_height]) cylinder(h=lid_top_height,d=lid_top_diameter);cylinder(h=lid_bottom_height,d=lid_bottom_diameter);scale([2,1.5,1]) rotate([-90,0,0]) translate([0,-lid_bottom_height-lid_top_height,0]) rotate_extrude(angle=180, convexity = 2) translate([-lid_top_diameter/8, 0, 0]) circle(d = handle_thickness);[/spoiler]
>>2827787The interior cavity roof will almost certainly be a bridging clusterfuckThe handle is pissweakhttps://anonymfile.com/0m6Ap/cookie-jar-lid-001.zip
>>2827811Oh fug, I didn't even think about the need for supports in the hollowed version. The best I can do to get that hollow interior without the need for supports which ruins the purpose of making it hollow is to etch out a cone shape from the underside. If your printer is good with overhangs, wonderful. If not, this is no good.
>>2827811>>2827812>>2827813>>2827819So it looks something like this. I wonder why it doesn't want to print supports there either. Huh. Okay, suggestions?
>>2827825what is your layer height
>>2827828.2
>>2827825Look at >>2827813. By inverting the handle and printing the model over you solve a lot of problems and put yourself in a position to remove a lot of material from the lid both making it print faster and use less filament. >that picYour infill is WAY too high. Drop it to 5%. Have it print 3 or 4 walls instead of 2 for strength.
>>2827813meanwhile... back at the objectively correct answer....................................................................................................
>>2827834Huh. Okay yeah I can grok that. Thanks.
>>2827834op should also taper the bit that goes inside the top of the cookie jar, from a dimension the same as what you measure the jar opening to be... to a dimension ~1 or 2mm less than what you measured....so it actually fits after you spent a week printing it and realise that prints/dimensions you took dont match, and the lid cant be inserted into the jar.
>>2827834I can do you one better. In your slicer, add a negative part, another torus. Make it big. It takes off a lot of material.
>>2827837No I factored that in when I designed it. Besides, push comes to shove, I have a sanding attachment on my drill.
>>2827838yeah, theres a lot of room for improvementmy first choice would be to make the part inserted into the jar longer/taller, and minimise the bit that sits on top of the jar to ~5mmprobably keep the same total height, and just put most of it inside the jar opening
>>2827841The heigh is actually the most variable thing, I think. I wanted to have a cool handle but honestly, I can skip it.
>>28278382nd obvious option would be to enlarge the hemispherical grip cavity so its within ~5mm of the edge of the jar insert on all sides
>>2827813So I'm trying this one. Says 9 hours. I'm gonna post it tomorrow, see how it turned out. >>2827797>>2827798>>2827799>>2827802>>2827803>>2827804>>2827811>>2827812>>2827813>>2827819>>2827828>>2827833>>2827834>>2827837>>2827838>>2827841Thanks for your help kind anons. I'll post an update tomorrow.
>>28278383rd is to make the hemispherical grip cavity a fugly cutout the same cylindrical shape as the jar inser perimeter, and just putr a wall straight across it like the hemispherical cutout does
>>2827842If you have some M3 bolts, you can print the handle separately and just bolt it on there. When I started printing I was terrified and insulted at the idea of using additional hardware because autism and it took a long time to get over that. Yes, amazing engineering will get you a lid that prints in one piece with no supports and minimal materials and looks great. This is 4chan so don't expect amazing engineers. Use what you got, and that includes your skills.
>>2827849I have no issue with that other than the fact that I have 0 faith in myself and even less than that of designing a handle with screw holes that will match up with the screw holes in a lid.
>>2827847https://anonymfile.com/gznO1/cookie-jar-lid-002.stl
>>2827844>>2827847I think >>2827834 didn't do those because after a certain point it just becomes overhang that has to have supports printed.
>>2827849>This is 4chan so don't expect amazing engineers.This is a common misconception.You have no idea who frequents here.Internet is serious business.
>>2827857didnt do them because i just went with the first thing that came to mindBut none of them require support. The only reason there was support required in the first place is that lame handle forcing it to be printed upright.
>>2827860admittedly the hemisphereical grip is the only one that might not have fugly bridging... so yeah, the flat-topped cutouts probably should use support... which i would use zero top gap and a pause to paint a whiteboard marker over the support layer so the print let go of it and had a better surface than just rubbishy medium distance bridging.
>>2827858I'm a mechanical engineer at CERN in the Beam Instrumentation group working on the development of Beam Gas Ionisation profile monitors for the LHC. I have $750,000 in outstanding student loans and make <$60k/yr and le dialecte francais local me brule les oreilles comme les putes locales me brulent le marteau Americain.
>>2827861ie: THIS medium distance bridging... which would probably be only slightly worse in terms of its resulting surface quality than a zero-support-pause-paint layer (which are usually less cavity prone than bridging, but not really smooth either, and have whiteboard marker embedded in that surface)>>2827863thats like when /s/ was surprised there were actual porn staffers lurking
btw >>2827787 this isnt centered
>>2827867ack
Has fuzzy skin been tried with E seizures instead of the usual XY tremor?
>>2827890even if you limit that to overextrusion and no underextrusion, that's probably going to mess with your structural integritycould be fun though
>>2827511>>2827513Thanks very much, I'm working my way through this process mostly for fun, buuuuuut I did find the problem, and it was some dumb shit I missed. I replaced my hotend recently, which has a manufacturer recommended retraction distance which cura keeps trying to reset on me every time I change profiles. That was the problem, it was trying to retract waaay too much every time. Print time cut down by half now.
>>2827738>>2827771https://www.sjgames.com/castellan/Right on, thank you! I made a handful of wall pieces yesterday as well, should have those finished up this evening. Since it's out-of-print I'm gonna play around a bit and see if I can come up with either some alternate rules with dice, or alternate cards to print that aren't copies of the originals to post alongside the models. The company is still around, they just don't make that game, and I don't want to find out if they're the litigious type or not, but since you can only copyright the presentation of a game and not the rules (like Pathfinder being ~D&D 3.75), I should be in the clear. I also need to make scoring markers, but those don't have to do anything but stack, so they should be a quick thing. I have 2x copies of the Red/Blue box, so I just printed https://www.printables.com/en/model/526186-stacking-castle-score-keepers for use with that. Picrel, dimensions for the one you printed to get the dimensions I actually wanted.
>>2827904np>cura keeps trying to resetyeah, i'm having same gripe with orcato the point where im trying to figure out how their config inheritance works, and doesnt work, so i can make my own master MASTER files.It's pretty tedious trying to figure it out by trial and error though....and if all the things that doesnt seem to support arrays (and multiple entries) is inherits=
>>2827719She has lived in North Carolina for at least the past three decades. It's not the sun, it's all the desiccants from her dry box. Just one of the many dangers of 3D printing if you're not careful. >>2827498Reminds me of some of the toys that came out in the 1970s when 'Jaws' was a hit movie. The baby sharks are cute.
>>2827543>>/3/cadSeems almost as dead as my grandma. A single Openscad guy just showed more activity here than that thread over the whole last month.
>>2827968why not just use fusion360 for enthusiasts? you can use it for free. some features are locked but still everything you need to do 99% of modelling you can do it in the free version. just need to "renew" the free version every year if i remember correctly, other than that works fine. i have tried using other cads but maybe i am just too used to fusion, because everything seems shit in comparison. and i dont have the time to learn the ins and outs of new cads. i just assume the last post in that dead thread was yours.
Giving an update on the cookie jar lid - the filament decided to snap in the middle of the night. I also got some minor zits but I don't think they would've mattered. Gonna set it to run again and then check on it later.
>>2827974If you're purely a hobbyist, fusion360 isn't a bad choice. If you think you might end up selling something you make, the low threshold of $1000/year isn't even double the annual subscription cost of $510/year. This makes it a terrible choice if you end up growing your hobby into a small side business.The other issue is that they can change the licensing at any time, doing away with the free tier. And since it's online, you can't just firewall the app on your computer and set the clock back. You can hope they'd never do that but companies can be fickle, especially when there's a change in leadership.
>>2827985To be fair, Fusion is so easy to learn that even if they do kill off the free tier, you'd probably spend less time learning the basics of CAD on Fusion and then learning how to transfer those skills to whatever other CAD software you choose than you would initially trying to learn on harder software. There was no fighting it to figure out how to do the thing I want to do, I watched maybe an hour of YouTube and started making basic stuff.https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLrZ2zKOtC_-C4rWfapgngoe9o2-ng8ZBr
>unsalvageable
>>2828012all 4 wheels came off.
>>2828012Were you using C-4 filament?
>>2827974>>2828008>trust me bro autodesk is totally not gonna screw us up whenever possiblestop shilling this proprietary garbage
>>2828008How easy would it be to get your models out of 360 and converted into another format? I assume you can do that in the free version and it's not a paid feature.
>>2828027Cloud save by default, File -> Export to save the whole project locally, or right click -> Export/Save As Mesh to do it from the browser.
>>2828028Ok, so pretty low risk of getting locked in or losing your files due to a change in policy as long as there was enough notice. Not bad.
>Have portable install of OrcaSlicer>Reinstall Windows>Load up OrcaSlicer and all my settings etc are goneWow very nice portable install
>>2827985>And since it's online, you can't just firewall the app on your computer and set the clock back.Are you certain of this? I only ask because I use Fusion360 offline all the time but have seen plenty of people complain about it being cloud-based. >>2828049I use a plugin to help make backups of my Fusion360 library. It's not automated, but it's convenient enough and does give me peace of mind. There are a few out there: https://github.com/aconz2/Fusion360Exporter>>2828054Sorry to hear that. Settings for all Slic3r derivatives are stored in your appdata by default. You can specify where to store settings in order to create a truly portable install using the --datadir launch option.
>>2827905Think I got everything dialed in close enough to not matter. Outside length is just going to be off by a tiny bit since an 0.4mm nozzle can't do as small of a point as the original injection molded ones, but the slot connecting them is within tolerance, and has enough play to fit with the originals.
Anyone else having issues posting? It's not letting me post a picture anymore, just connection error-ing.
>>2828026so what if they do fuck every free user over in a year and even delete the free version from existence? just use something else when the time comes, for now there is no reason not to use it and get used to cad since it is the easiest to use software.
I'm looking at just getting into 3d printer so I was wondering if it makes sense to buy a used printer from facebook marketplace or would I be better off buying a brand new printer?
>>2828080New. Used printers can be a good source of cheap fun for an experienced hobbyist, but that's it. Really fucking good printers are cheap, don't try to save a buck or two buying somebody's old shitbox. It's not like buying a $3500 beat to shit ugly old running used car instead of a new $32,000 one, it's more like buying a $3500 beat to shit ugly old running used car when the new one is $3850.
>>2828076Sometimes happens temporarily when the site is getting illegal content posted. It's a way to prevent perverts from organizing a mass posting of cp. Or the system is just unstable as happens sometimes.
>>2828025pla+. ordered a new hotend and silicon spacers. such bullshit. i will never again print when I'm not home. it stopped because it ran out of filament, miscalculated how much I had left on that spool. I think the wheels loosened from vibrations and the plate lifted upwards, yet I was cautious with all that and I did succesful prints within that time frame and longer before.Kinda feel defeated now, gotta wait atleast two days for my ordered stuff. I hope the hotend fits, it's for an ender 3 s1, I got the the pro version. From the looks of it, both red cables come out differently but the rest seems to be the same. I was thinking about printing little clamps to lock the wheels in place... man..
>>2827974>i just assume the last post in that dead thread was yours.No, i just checked during lunch. /3/ seems to have a lot less coomer content than i remember, but then they also did not have a /cad/ at all.>>2827983Time for the bowden tube upgrade, honey.>>2828080Depends on what kind of used printer. Considering the amount of p1s/K1s appearing from the "Dunno what to do with it now" crowd, you might strike a deal, but else just buy a new enclosed box of your choice. Don't bother with anything that has visible standard aluminium extrusions.
>>2828116>bowden tube uPgRaDeAWAY WITH YE SATAN!
>>2828116It's not the bowden tube. The filament holder is in such a dumb place that the filament can get stuck on it. I'm gonna see if I can find a nice guideline print or something. >>2827834>>2827813Thanks man! Here's the finished thing. I really appreciate the help. Took 9 hours.
>>2828141YAAAAYbut does it fit?i still think the top section is too thick
>>2828149Yeah it ended up being a bit too thick but it's fine. I made this for my grandmother who broke the cookie jar lid and she loves to paint and decorate so it gives her more room.
>>2828152niceeveryone loves a crafty nanna
I have an stl file of a drill and I want to use that to make a drill-shaped hole in a solid body in Inventor. I have a plugin that takes an stl and converts it to a solid body that can be modified like any other parametric solid with Inventor. As pic related demonstrates, I have sort of accomplished this, but there are several problems.What I really want to do is to project the silhouette of the drill onto a rectangle and have that cut material out of the rectangle. (that way the outermost edge at any given point is what makes the hole) However, the outline is many many short lines and manually projecting and duplicating them in a sketch to extrude would take forever. Does anybody know how I would go about doing this?>>TLDR: How do I tell Inventor to make a hole in the shape of the shadow that would be cast onto a flat surface by a light source directly above the object casting the shadow pointing along the normal line of the flat surface?
>>2828175Here are some other views that might help visualize what I'm talking about a bit better. I can comment further if I need to clarify what I'm trying to do, cause I know I'm doing a terrible job of explaining it.
>>2828175short lines is what you get from triangle based sources.... no way to avoid this unless you feel like tracing your parametric outline manuallyYou need to section the drill, such that there is only the section, and nothing in front or behind that section.... to get a 2d shape, then fill it, then extrude it.This is the problem with parametric modelers, their users never learn how to actually manipulate the first principles of mesh, because they are always working at a level of abstraction several magnitudes above them.
>>2828181give me the mesh and ill have it done in 5 minutes...but as a triangle mesh
>give me the mesh and ill have it done in 5 minutes>...but as a triangle meshoops, quoted wrong post.. im talking to you>>2828179
>>2828179so i guess in your case you would need to section it twice, to get a microscopically thin 2d shape, then extrude it, and use that as a boolean to cut out your cookie holderor manually trace it and do it the hard way
>>2828181>You need to section the drill, such that there is only the section, and nothing in front or behind that sectionHow do I do this? Like as >>2828179 shows I can flatten it to any arbitrary slice, then project the geometry of that one resulting face which can then be extruded as a cut out, then make another extrusion to remove everything that isnt the cut out. The problem is that only gives me the outline of the drill at that specific slice, not the overall widest outline.Im getting the impression that the right way to do this is to work with it as a mesh to get the cross-section/silhouette and THEN extrude it as a parametric solid that I can further modify as needed, but I have no clue how to do that.
>>2828196>how do iI have no idea, im a blender guy.Like i said, give me the mesh and i can see if what i export is useful to you.It's trivial to edit mesh at the mesh level. I can make you an extruded cookie cutter as stl or whateverhttps://anonymfile.com/
>>2828206https://anonymfile.com/mkZQ1/drill-composite-closed-85k.stlI'd appreciate it if you could give me a quick run down of how you do this if it turns out to work.
>>2828208https://anonymfile.com/KVxb7/drill-composite-closed-85k-00.zip
>>2828208lol, that took a long time becaseu i was trying to make the smallest possible video to demonstrate, but of course murphys law came into effect and suddenly i was getting fucked by all those vertexesSo i reduced it to ~1mm accuracy and did the thing.Basically i:-imported to blender-created a cube, scaled to be a bit bigger then the drill-moved one face of the cube to be 0.01mm to the X side of the drill-mirrored the cube, so now there is also another cube 0.01mm to the negative X side of the drill-added boolean to the drill and targeted the cube(s) - now we have a 0.02mm thin silhouette of the drill-merged ajacent vertexes to 0.01mm tolerance-unified the faces normals-forgot to scale it to 0 on the X axis to make sure it was perfectly planar-extruded it 100mm in X-zipped both a flat and extruded versions
>>2828231>-merged ajacent vertexes to 0.01mm tolerance1mm tolerance...some of the faces were duplicated and i didnt feel like chasing so many of them... plus it'll probably be easier for you to import to parametric with less superfluous points.Because i forgot to scale it to 0 in X before extruding you may find that the flat stl and the 'flat' sides of the extruded stl arent truly flat.... so....meh?Let me know if you want me to abuse those triangles any further.
>>2828234>>2828231Perfect timing! I just finished tracing the entire thing with a spline one vertex at a time. Once Inventor starts responding again I'll try what you ended up with.
well this is gonna be fuck awful to remove the supports from
>>2828250maybe, give us the stl or some better views if you want advice
>>2828231>>2828234>>2828236I think I might just have it... Not sure if its fugly or awesome...
>>2828250>>2828257too bad, it's printing already
>>2828138What's with the hate? I had dried ASA break on me and looking up the prosumer chart, the Pantheon HS3 uses something insane like a 10mm outer Diameter Bowden as well, so should help something.>>2828260For a cutout? Looks good. Too many sharp corners look fugly quickly.
>>2828260It's awesome if it fits and works once you print it.This is for a housing to stick the drill into, right? if so; you probably should consider parametric tracing it's outline in a relaxed amount of detail, because presumably that is easier for your design tool to work with.If you arent trying to snap to every single point of detail, and just instead sketch the shape, it shouldnt be more than 50-100 points to draw.Maybe just adapt the pelican case foam principle: slap it onto a 1cm grid and just cut away anyhting more than half way inside a square.>>2828268>bowdenoh, you mean just as a guide tube to protect from moisture?...sure, why not.However, bowden fed (non direct) extruders are evil.
>>2828274>if so; you probably should consider parametric tracing it's outline in a relaxed amount of detailYeah thats what I'm gonna end up doing probably. Once this one finishes printing in a few hours I'll see how it fits and then go and tweak the model to remove some of the unneeded small curves, rinse and repeat until it looks good. When I do this with other tools I'll have a better idea of how much detail to start out with in the beginning.
>>2828286remind me; what are you making?
Long story short, I had my printer outside and it rained. Printer seems to work, but I had a roll of asa and pla (matte) out there with it. The cardboard spools were completely soaked. Do I try to save the filament with desiccant and 24h in my filament dryer or are they beyond saving and do I just throw them away.
>>2828313>Long story short, I had my printer outside and it rained.This is ridiculous. What's the long story long? You had your friends over and they pissed on everything?>pla (matte)Throw it away. It's garbage.>a roll of asaSave it. Why would you bother with desiccant if you already have a filament dryer?>cardboard spools were completely soakedDepends on the type of glue and how sensitive your spool feeding setup is. Unless it's grossly deformed or falling apart I wouldn't worry too much about this.I dry my ASA at 65 C for four hours, but I've never noticed any blatant effects. It's not as hydroscopic as PETG for example.
>>2828299An organizer for a bunch of power tools where each tool will have its own little tool-shaped slot. That way its easy to know exactly where each one goes and its instantly obvious if one isnt where it belongs.
>>2828329and the slots are printed from what?slots are mounted on a wall? in a box?
>>2828329For something like that, why not go the foam cutout route if they're laying down, or the painted outline if they're upright? Way less effort, less plastic, and less cost.
Stubborn support material? Meet chisel.
>>2828384lolyou should try the whiteboard marker method
>>2828329You have considered that you need to be able to get some portion of your hand in there too... right?
>>2828384Oh and I forgot about these flat-ended xacto knife blades I have too.>>2828386Pausing and applying marker? I've heard of special markers for that, but not regular whiteboard marker. I'll test that once this project is finished. I should also swap to Orca so I can get those nice mouse ear brims.This:https://hackaday.com/2020/05/27/improving-3d-printed-supports-with-a-marker/Looks pretty promising, I have a spare GPIO already broken out to a connector for my laser diode, so using it to activate a solenoid could be a pretty neat method. I'd try my hand at writing a python script to go through the g-code and find where supports end, but I bet it would be slow. The arc overhang script takes like half an hour on my machine, though since it triples my print time it's probably not working properly.
>>2828396>whiteboardyeah, it works quite well. It's not foolproof, but its a lot better than bridging or small-gap supports.Anyhting with a powder based pigment in it probably should work, but ive only had luck with whiteboard markers.Make sure you do it on a test print first, so you get a feel for it. You may find it fails badly, but thats just technique. It works, you just need to get a feel for *how* it works.But... you shouldnt need to be working that hard to remove supports, so you are doing it wrong.For a layer height of 0.3mm i leave a 0.2mm gap above 3 layers of 0 spacing support, and the 'bridging' layer, with 100% fan during the bridging. That should work for petg and pla.>hackadayinterestingA for effort, but seems like trying too hard when you have to remove the cap anyway. Just paint over it during a pause. You dont need to be perfect, in fact some specific imperfection is often required....and those regular permanent markers dont really work anyway.
Anyone using CadQuery? Is it worth the trouble of dealing with Python?
>>2828400If you know python, go for it. You can export into anything. If not stick with OpenSCAD as it has an actual userbase.
Can you do brick layering with any other slicer than simplify3d? Should I get cracked version? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5hGm6cubFVs
>>2828152She might need a primer for painting
>>2828422Honestly there's not enough information in that test to decide if it's worth it or not. 14% improvement in strength sounds nice, but you can also design the part 14% stronger.
>>2828425She will absolutely need a primer for painting. The best way to paint PLA is with primer and acrylic. If you don't prime it, the acrylic just peels off.
guys, how would you print this https://www.printables.com/model/65887-callisto-2-fully-printable-retro-computer on a 120x120mm print bed? really split it into smaller parts or get a bigger printer?
>>2828428This is something I wish I knew beforehandStill I got the acrylic to mostly stick...nta btw
>>2828430>120mx120m bedIs that one of those toys in chinkexpressDownload stl and see if it fits. You can probably split it even more if it doesn't
>>2828422lel motherfuckers, am on a costum win 11 OS and ripped solidworks and simplify. i will never cuck out and pay for your software lmaohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iXbzktx1KfU
>>2828384A hot knife/ soldering iron can be decent if you have an extra tip to waste.
Just received my first shipment of filament, Jayo PLA meta, €60 shipped (10,90€/kg shipping included). Now that I have some colors, how much of a PITA are multi-color prints with manual filament change?
>>2828483Great, now you can print lgbt flags
>>2828483I only did multi color prints that changes color between different layers and in that case it is not much of an issue. In most slicers you can add filament change between layers. It moves the printer to a safe place for you to change filament. Then you change it, press a button and it extrudes some filament until you say it is good enough and then it continues printingI don't think it would be feasible if you are going to change colors multiple types though.
hi im from /g/, does anyone know of a company or person I can order a small plastic part for one of my goggles that broke?pic related
>be me>FDMfag I want to start making small parts to make silicone molds and pull resin copies from, and filament isn't going to cut it for these. What resin printer should I get for <$400?
How would you print a part like picrel? Printing it with supports as shown on the second pic does not work for me, because it seems like the internal stresses make it detach from the support at some point, as shown on pic 3.
>>2828337They will go in a box as modular inserts so that you can have any number of different combinations of tools in a given box for a particular job.>>2828339If it was a one-off thing that would be the way to go, but the goal is to ultimately sell these.>>2828392Yes, dont worry lol. Thats part of why I wanted to get it into a parametric format in the first place; that way I can just do some simple operations to make slots to put fingers in or something, and make it a tiny bit oversized so its not a super tight fit.
>>2828519print the tube part separately & vertically maybe. Then shove it to a hole you put on the handle part. Weird that it is deforms like that that much desu
>>2828524Yeah its the second time im printing this and it just pops open from the support. Support z offset of 0.1, which i have used for ages and has always worked. On the second try I even made the tube part flat on the bottom, as you can see from the highlighted part of the pic, still doesn't stick just as it didn't when it was all around cylinder. Might have to slice the model, yeah.
>>2828525
what software do I need to make artticulated arms and legs of this model, I can load the obj in orca slicer, but not freecad nor simplify3dblender? fusion360 or what it's called?
>>2828519>>2828525What are you printing it out of? You might have better luck if you increase bed temperature or build enclosure temperature or reduce cooling or reduce print speed, or possibly increase support density or change to a different pattern. Printing it in two pieces like the other anon said would certainly work as well though.
>>2828553PLA. Not ideal for the longetivity of this tool but I just finished reassembling and building my printer (added belted Z mod) so I'm using PLA since the material itself is easy to print, otherwise I'd be doing it with ABS as I do most parts that I want to be strong. But yeah, I modelled it to be in two parts, currently printing
>>2828565>>2828553And as for the bed temp, there is no need to rise it. It sticks perfectly to the bed and that is not the problem, maybe sticks little bit too good to the kapton tape. Cant really be an infill issue either, because it's the bottom of the supported part which unsticks from the support itself, it's not cracking in a random place. I was thinking initially to print it at an angle, 15-45 degree, but it was fucking up the structure of the model, since I need the teeth of the part to be vertical
>>2828566I was thinking it could be a shrinkage problem, and raising the bed temp might help with that a little by warming the surrounding air a bit, and increasing the support density might help it bind to the support structure a bit better.As for an infill issue, in my limited experience with doing super dense infill, it can sometimes lead to warping even with PLA which usually doesnt warp too bad.
>>2828519those teeth are going to snap right off with the least pressure. turn the shaft 90º
>>2828519reduce the support z distance to .1
>>2828516saturn 4 12k duh
>>2828581It is at .1 like I mentioned in one reply>>2828570Yea might all be the case to be honest. I did it at 15% infill. Printed pretty nicely in two parts, added bonus is if the teeth ever should snap I don't need to print the handle again, just a quick print for the key part>>2828579Might try it if I ever need to reprint it. It shouldn't receive that much pressure for what I intend to use it for. It's for removing some of my car's electrical connector harnesses, the tabs break quite easily. I think that's the right term, ESL, either way it's for picrel
>>2828542It's called "you have to do that yourself". Decide what kind of joint you want, modify the mesh to have that joint. Print the parts separately, then assemble it. There is no automated method for this.
>>2828514>>2828542>you have to be over the age of 18 to post here
>>2828399>Just paint over it during a pauseI'd rather automate it for two reasons:>so i can leave a print on overnight>so i can easily have a print with multiple layers of supports needed, or diagonal faces propped up by supports>>2828457That's the nuclear option. I've made a mess of a print with a soldering iron before, so I don't want to use one if I don't have to.
>>2828631so then the main issue is solving how to cap it.. *airtight* cap it.. between uses.
>>2828565the last section of the top of the shaft, the part that isnt flat like the rest of the shaft's 'top'.....cut it offmake the shaft have a flat top for its entire length, and flip the shaft 180deg on its long axismaybe use a tiny bit of support in the key teeth if bridging sucks too much
>>2828670on never mind, the bottom is completely flat anyway
>>2828668Ah yeah. Maybe instead of capping it, you feed IPA in from the back of the marker so it never dries out? Or you could dip the pen in IPA before each paint move, though that dish would need a cap too. Dipping a brush in the ink itself might also work, or maybe dip a brush in fine graphite powder.Something oil-based instead of alcohol-based would be better, it doesn't matter if it never dries out. So long as it doesn't drip. Fill a felt tip pen with mineral oil, mix in a smidge of paraffin wax if it drips.
>>2828674Reading this i had to grin a little.Your base assumptions probably arent correct, at least not as far as the testing ive done.IPA? if you mean just feed it solvent, then no.The only reason whiteboard markers work, and regular permanent marker mostly doesn't: is that the whiteboard marker ink dries on the support, and the coating it leaves can be separated, with some granules being left on the support, and others sticking to the print. The fact that they are not a much finer layer of molecules like ink would be seems to be what determines if it works.iirc i couldnt get paint-markers to work either. Maybe their granule bonding goop is too strong, and whitebaord markers' isn't.It's not simply a case of putting a layer of ink or paint down, if that layer cant be 'split' along the very fine 'granules' along its laminar plane.>never driesnope. The filament still needs to stick to it. I can print circular paths on whiteboard marker. But it's tricky, and one of the ways i have made it work is to allow it to dry for a few seconds, and then tap and slide my finger over the 'paint' gently. Theres a certain degree of tackyness that indicates it will grip the about-to-be-printed filament. It's very difficult to describe, and mostly i just guess when i can resume the print. It doesnt always work either, sometimes more ink is worse than less, sometimes i need to paint dots over 50% of the support, sometimes i need to paint several layers evenly, it depends on the shape and side-support of what is about to be laid onto the support.If you want to go full automatic, then maybe also consider an airbrush instead of a marker. With some kind of chalk based pigment, or inkjet cartridges. etcEven just a single layer of soluable filament between support and print would produce similar or better surface quality.That said, if you are driving servos then just print a cap-mount with some o-rings in it.> diagonal faces propped up by supportsyes, this is the main reason
>>2828694>The filament still needs to stick to itOh of course.At this point I'd be better with a dual nozzle hot end or a full IDEX, and add a thin layer of PVA between supports and prints. Screw purge blocks.
grandma painted the lid
I just had 5 fucking rolls of filament come in and I just hit the point where I'm losing interest in printing again.
>bambulabs 2nd anniversary sale>see printers are on sale with free shipping>never had a 3d printer before>decide im going to become a 3d printer/electronics engineering nerd>order a p1s and a ton of electronics gear ($3500 total)>renovating guest bedroom into lab>should be ready by next weekendsometimes my genius is almost frightening
>>2828733>Let me spend $3500 on a hobby that you can start for less than $300.
>>2828733you should suffer with ender3 clones first and see if you actually enjoy using a printer
>>2828715>Screw purge blocks.amen>>2828730good job, grandsoni look forward to the next edition of 'things I printed for my nanna'>>2828731tape it up again, it will wait.>>2828733looks like a youtuber is about to be born>>2828734>less than $300.lol, not if you want an oscilloscoppe and some filament to go with your UpGrAdEaBlE PrInTeR, entry-level wagie>>2828735massochism, i like itHowever I also like the idea of buying 3.5k of the good shit and doing interesting shit with it. So my thumbs up is going with >>2828733
>>2828736>looks like a youtuber is about to be born7 weeks of videos that average 35 views, 2 months without a video, "sorry I haven't posted in a while" video, never posts again, everything resold on facebook marketplace before the end of the summerthanks for the used gear
Has anyone ever tried 3d printed magazines? Any issues or thoughts? Youtube videos of 3d printed magazines seem to run without problem. Tapco SKS magazines are $50 per magazine which is ridiculous considering they're pinned at 5 rounds up here in retard land.
>>2828756There are fuckloads of printed mags for a huge range of guns, many of them work very well, some are more of a novelty. People print drum mags. I've got a small pile of 32rd Glock mags that cost less than $3/ea. I have not seen SKS mags, but there are a lot of AK mags, and more recent ones are actually pretty damn decent from what I've seen, would make for a good starting point if you were to design an SKS mag. Here are some places to get started, know that there's a lot more out there.https://odysee.com/@TheGatalog-PrintableMagazineshttps://odysee.com/@LFMTalking firearms is not /diy/ friendly, magazines may be borderline. https://desuarchive.org/k/thread/61289119/#q61296339
>>2828761Fuck you odysee https://odysee.com/@LFM:f
>>2828761Thanks anon, appreciate the link
>>2828735Nah, start out with an a8, like I did. Kids these days.
wew this petg is ass, took four attempts to print it, now running 80C bedalso while grabbing some globs off the next print with my side-cutters i accidentally jabbed the hot-end cooling fan and broke off one of the bladesi think i have a spare somewhere, i'll solder splice it in once this print finishes in two hours
>>2828787fug
>>2828792Thats surprisingly transparent.Thats a kind of fugly color, and yet the transparency is appealing due to its fairly minimal visible layer lines inside the print.>80Cyeah i tried to initially scrimp on watts too, but for petg 80C is now my default.
>>2828792also:is that overextrusion i see? is it possible that its overextruding so much that the nozzle snagged on the print?Ever since I wasted several days trying to diagnose my last layer shift I now seem to automatically want to check the driver temps/vref before anything else.
>>2828787>>2828792How do you people keep appearing?
>>2827788Cute gator
>>2828819There was some crazy sales recently
>>2828796>is that overextrusion i see?Yes, I manually wound the bed up a tad to make it stick better after this: >>2828787, but yeah I think that was probably the cause of this failure. Between those times, I set the bed temp from 70 to 80 halfway through the printing of the brim, which caused it to curl up and make a mess pretty soon after.>>2828819For what it's worth, this is old-ass PETG that's been out of a pack for a year or two. I've run it 5 hours at 60°C in my drier with airflow, and I can't hear any popping out the hot end, but moisture or ageing could still be the problem. My newer PETG prints with the same settings with no babying at all. I may have had one time I had to restart a print a few minutes in, but that was just because it was leaking before the print and a bit of goop got stuck next to the nozzle.
>>2828831INcreasing the bed shouldnt suddenly cause a curl, it was probably already manifesting at 70 and you didnt catch it in time.This is why 80 is my petg normal.>old-assyeah. Some of its crap too. With that level of transparency there probably isnt a lot of things other than petg in there. I dont have any experience with filament that clear, but i suspect the color additives add a certain amount of stability with regard to aspects like warping.
>>2828730Cute>>2828735Sure get something around 200$. Make sure that it has z-offset though because that's a hassle you shouldn't have to deal with nowadays.Also watch some reviews of printer loli or similar channels to see what's important to you, these machines always make compromises
>>2828836Maybe you're right, it's significantly more transparent even than the yellow PETG I have, which I thought was transparent enough. It is the perfect transparent dark red colour for a 7-segment display's digits though. I should print some of Posy's cool segment displays.Maybe I should print it at 90C? It's not my filament, but the guy I borrowed it off had never used it before so he shouldn't mind if I keep it a while longer. But for now I've got one and a half days left on this deadline, back to the CAD grindstone.
>>2828838>90Cmaybe, but 70 should be enough for a smallish object - like the pink thing - if enclosed.I only use 80 all the time because i forget to increase it and then have large surface area prints fail hours later, and it sucks more thana just always using more heat.90C might be too much though. iirc all of the available megnietic sheet technology has a 80C limit before it starts to degrade the magnetism. And frankly 80 is enough. If you arent enclosing it at ~40 ambient then you should do so before continuing. Someone else said 30-35 was ok, but 40 is what mine sits at naturally, and I cant change it except by making the bed hotter, so I dont know about anything except 40C, and i know that works 100% of the time with 80C bed....and in my case, with opaque grey petg; 230C nozzle.
>>2828840>megnietic* magnetic
>>2828840I've got a glass bed and no enclosure. I figure the temperature atop the glass bed is probably 5C lower than the thermistor at least. Ambient is maybe 10°C? Tonight it's getting below 7°C, but the printer is in my garage so it's probably a few degrees warmer.
Ok there goes the overnight PETG print. Hope I don't wake up to spaghetti. G'night anons.
>>2828520Which storage system are you making it for, or do you expect tradesmen that are already invested in Sortimo's L-BOXX/Festool's Systainer/Milwaukee's PACKOUT/Dewalt's ToughSystem to switch systems to use yours?
>>2828840I've set my E5S1 bed to 110C a few times and it's the same.It's not close to the Curie temperature.
>>2828070
>>2828844>Ambient is maybe 10°C? Tonight it's getting below 7°C,yeah, nah. Thats not going to work, the bed temperature is kind of moot once you get below about 20 iirc, it will warp and its more likely to result in a collision than just spaghetti.You need to enclose petg unless you life in warmer climates and the temperature doesnt fluctuate too much.I got away with it for a while, but as soon as the weather cooled my failure rate got unbearable. A simple tent fixed that completely.
>>2828881But anon, a tent doesn't do more than 5C tops!
>>2828736The next thing is actually for my mom. She had these frosted glass lampshades some of which ended up breaking. I used clear PLA to print some for her, but they discolored due to the heat of the lamp. So I ended up buying some heat-resistant PLA so I'm gonna print a bunch more of these, anneal them, and give them to her. Cheaper than ordering them from a glass shop (but maybe for her birthday or something).
Has anybody ever tried making/recycling their own filament? If so, what should I expect to pay to get usable quality filament?I'm open to all options (home built from plans or kits, or pre-made ready to use) and my main concern is price and functionality. (In other words, I'm OK with having to dial it in and experiment, but I don't want to spend an ungodly amount of effort on that and never really get it working well) I'll do research on my own of course, but figured I might ask here to see if there are some products that are totally not worth bothering with, or conversely if there is a clear and obvious best choice out there. If I could get something that works reliably for something like $200-$300 (even if it takes some time and effort to get it set up and dialed in) I think I could live with that price. But since I'm still in an exploratory stage here, I'm open to any and all suggestions.As for where I'm getting the raw material, I of course have scrap material from my own prints (mostly PLA but some PETG, and eventually probably some ABS too) and I also plan on seeing if I can set up an arrangement with one or more small local print farms/companies to see if they will give me their scrap. (ie, failed prints, support structure, etc) Theres also abundant PET to be had in household recycling, and every now and then I might come across a big hunk of ABS or whatever as well.>TLDR: Can anyone recommend an entry level filament extruder or, failing that, warn me off of brands to avoid or steer me towards ones to look into? Anybody else have tips or experience with home made filament?
>>2828980A little more info:I've made my own filament as part of a group once in a college level class and it came out pretty well on our first (and only) attempt. (there was at least one spot in the full spool we made that was too thin and caused the printer to not be able to grab it, but it was only one spot and even if there were further defects in the rest of it I'm sure with practice and tuning we could have dialed it in to get better results with later runs. I'm almost certain the brand was a Filabot, and that it was one of their earlier models. (not the one in my first post. Based on looks and memory it *might* have been an EX2 but unless that model has been around for a long time it might have been an earlier model that they no longer sell. This class was in 2016 or 2018 and the machine wasn't new at that time if I remember correctly) We were making HDPE filament (which is *not* an ideal material to 3D print with, but you can make it work if you really want to)
>>2828864Im designing it for DeWalt at the moment. But other brands are possible too later on.I'm hoping someone isnt planning on taking this idea before I can finish it...
>>2828980I dont think making your own filament is feasible financially unless you amortize the cost over like 2000 rolls. At that scale you are more interested in uptime than pinching pennies.
>>2828844>>2828881Well, it printed perfectly overnight. Four items too.I kinda wanted to post the song "spaghetti again" though.
>>2828980If recycling bad prints is economical, your local print farm likely is already doing it.
>>2829003I'm relying on it *not* being economical. At least, not for a single relatively small print farm. What I'm looking at doing is collecting material from 2 or more companies (hopefully they will give it to me for free if they are just throwing it out anyway) as well as whatever scrap I produce, and then with the larger raw material source, it might be economical for me. As I also said, I can also use household plastic from certain products as well. (anything made from PET/PETG should work for example)At the very least, I could get free filament out of it, and I might even be able to sell it back to them at a reduced price. Hell, I might convince them to help fund it in the first place. If I can get 2 companies to pay for a third of the machine each, if I actually can make filament with it they can use it might be mutually beneficial for all of us.
>>2828980The woman in >>2827644 is livestreaming a video on that very topic. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TtngqMlUgF8
>>2826364yes yessss fresh beansNext I need to make a wood box for it, too bad I am a notools apartmentcuck. I want to replace the printed pulley frame and the plywood motor frame with some good wood too. I might also make an H bridge/current sense controller board like the other anon suggested so it can detect when the hopper's empty (free spinning), reverse itself briefly if the bean flow stops up as sometimes happens, and do a slow PWM start to reduce likelihood of the belt skipping.
My ex-gf bought me a Prusa MK4 a month before I dumped her and I just now got around to setting it up. This is my first FDM printer, what should I make first?
are there any online resin print services with decent prices and quality?I'm not set up to handle chemicals like that myself.
>>2828893maybe not for you, but mine is 40C when ambient is 20I guess i'll find out what its like in summer when ambient is 30>>2828941>heat-resistant PLAso.... PETG..then>>2828991>smaller objects>no cornerswell yeah.
>>2829033JLCPCB might do that>>2829037Hey those are still way worse for overhangs compared to that red piece of shit I was printing earlier. Still got one good print out of the stuff though.
printing at 16mm normal supports. what are some strategies to reduce this effect? gap is .2mm (current setting) I usually decrease to around .1 to clean up but sometimes it welds so I need some other ideas.
>>2829053-print adaptively z-thinner layers on that section-use a wider nozzle, and as above-adjust the model geometry-adjust the model print-orientation-use dissolvable supports-do a bunch of pausing and painting of whiteboard marker on each successive top support layer, and use zero support/print z-offset
>>2829053iirc this is somehting you intend to sell, so im guessing you wont want to give us the stl to set up a 3mf project for you to look at
>>2829063not that guy, I'm happy to share those pieces. the orientation is necessitated by other factors. the body is belly bump up and the hair is upside down. The head was included by accident but similar geometry so feel free to include.https://file.io/CiOL0MR8LT6u
>>2827075so now that 3d printing has failed to replace traditional manufacturing methods and has been permanently relegated to the "hobby-only" pile where redditors just make plastic landfill junk all day forever, what am I supposed to do with all my printers?
>>2829076print flexies and sell them at craft fairs and trade shows. you can sell 10 bambu weeks of prints in 1.5 days.
>>2829037It was a joke towards an earlier post >>2825853>>2829033Check out craftcloud.>>2829078Don't reply to bait.
>>2829037PETG is not heat resistant it's UV safe. It literally prints at the same temperature as PLA.
>>2829111PETG has a glass temperature of like 100°C, PLA has a glass temperature closer to 60°C, big difference for heat resistance. Also I print PETG at 240 and PLA at 220, while there's overlap I wouldn't say that they print at the same temp.
>>2828980Not to be a downer, but I don't think it can be /diy/'d to a reasonable level. Sure you can create an extruder of sort and make some plastic filament, but you'd be far from the quality and consistency required for proper employment in a 3D printer.To grossly outline the process of turning waste plastic into recycled filament you need>shredding the raw materialYou need to have a somewhat manageable and consistent size of starting material>washing the plasticYou need to get rid of most contaminants (glue, skin grease, dust, etc)>separate the various polymersAs the step above, you can't risk having inclusions into your filament>pelletize themNeeded for achieving consistency in the next phase>extrudeThis is where the magic happens and it is really hard to do right. An extruder's screw accomplishes many things at once and it's a precisely designed and machined element. A screw not only pushes the filament through the extruder but also mixes, heats, and degasses the material before extrusion, all with its geometry.>coil up the filamentI think everything can be /diy/'d to a good degree except the extruder, that needs to be professionally made.
me when I don't know what to print
>>2829165There is a guy trying to DIY a pallet extruder for directly printing with, it's relatively cheap parts-wise but he's spent a lot on R&D. He's running into issues where the flow rate varies as the pellets are individually extruded, I think you can get around that by measuring the pressure in the melt chamber, but that's not trivial. Measuring the torque exerted by the extruder motor alone probably won't cut it, but it's probably worth a shot.
So what do you people do with the excess plastics? Just put it with the generic plastic recycling or something?
>>2829186>a single pellet causes extrusion issuesI bet he's using a very short single stage screw. I think it's cool, but sometimes we do things the way we do without shortcuts for good reasons.
>>2829180Looks nice, though
>>2827189Pic related is my North Pi. I got it running Gitea and stuff for my home network.
>>2829165I'd like to slightly disagree. The problem isn't feasibility, but usefulness. A screw, a waterbath, a winding machine, heck some alu extrusions to put it on a workable level, all that is doable, but it's taking a lot of work floor. A hack saw, mill, drill, probably even more could fit there and for what? Some plastic turner that'll be used maybe twice a month..>>2829180It's cute tho.>>2829189I collect and send it to a filament recycling company. Not really worth it, but you can collect discounts from it and gf likes it when i print her stuff in rPETG.
>>2829053>>2829056>>2829063>>2829068squished first levelfirst 30 z are sloweddo I need more bottom layers now?
>>2829205Is the bird also 3D printed?
>>2829186He's now dealing with angry viewers who thought he was going to give away a bunch of STL files so they could /diy/ it instead of paying for his kickstarter.
>>2829186reminds me of the sports drink conveyor belt problem from engineering. the professor accused me of cheating because the better solution I came up with was actually the industry standard.
>>2828542guys help me with blender, I can't boolean cut it
>>2829309see this, I try to cut a joint out of the shoulder but it doesn't work
>>2829312that floating triange means it can's solve aka the result is non manifold. I get that when I can intersect and union fine but difference does nothing.
>>2829313ok? how can I fix it?
>>2829314well not exactly clear what you're trying to do but if it's punch out the sphere peg from the planar shoulder, i.e. you want to preserve the planar shoulder I think its either the shoulder isn't manifold, like the left over triangle is a duplicate plane with 0 width OR one of the two objects is too complex and you need to merge by distance one of them to simplify. you should be working with lower poly + modifier subdivide not applied anyway, but for now edit mode + A select all or F select contigious + M key + merge by distance should give you a better solution.I hope that's clear enough, lol I hate watching 15 minute blender videos and then they don't even have the answer.
The profile gets a bit wider farther on in the curve.How do I make inventor... not... do that?
>>2829321heres a better view of whats going on.
>>2829320MAN THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i was sitting there slamming my head on the keyboard for 3 hours atleast, watching bullshit blender vids that didn't adress my issue atall. it was so simple>edit mode>a>m>merge by distancedid that for both objects, boolean cut worked like intended. many thanks dude you saved my sanity this day
>>2829334next hurdle. i got the model to look like how i want it, but now slicing it gives me many errors. most layers are empty. 'fixing' the model mesh in orca/freecad doesn't help.maybe it's because the model is from a ps1 game and hollow? I tried to solidify it but it wouldn't work.
>>2829359when slicing the unedited model it works out fine
>>2829360aaahhhh you've to solidify everything beforehand
>>2829363enough for today. 3d modeling is hard
>>2829276Obviously not. You can see the flashing along the middle
>>2829363solidify is used to loft flat objects into 3d, NOT to do what you are doing.Assuming your mesh is actually manifold: you probably just need to :-unify normals (select object > edit mode > mesh > normals > recalculate outside... orselect>edit mode>alt-n>recalculate outside... orselect>edit mode>shift n ...but that may not be the keyboard hotkey theme you are using)-in the boolean modifier try different combinations of 'self intersection' and/or 'hole tolerant', or maybe even just use 'simple' boolean type rather than 'exact'
>>2829405>Assuming your mesh is actually manifold:and to make sure it is do not accept the default merge distance... 0.0001 is probably too miniscule to merge any problematic vertexesI normally use 0.001, or 0.01 if I cant figure out why its not booleaning properly and have tried everything else.Make sure you recalculate normals again each time you merge vertexes.And typically I also do a a ctrl-t and then alt-j(triangulate all faces, and then convert any coplanar triangles to polygons)...as part of this merge/normalise/cleaning process. Booleans can be a bitch when the mesh isnt just right.
>>2829276No. My gf bought that
>>2829483is the gf 3d printed?
>>2828733list the loot
Which is the best slicer in current year?
what kind of 3d printer is this???
>>2829540Looks like the results you get from full-color inkjet resin printers like what Mimaki has become known for.
>>2829543thanks! never heard of it before!
>>2829540Based on the stuff they are scraping off Id assume its polyjet. Basically unobtanium for hobbyist.
>>2829405>>2829409I was able to repair the mesh properly with the addon 3d toolbox. It fixes hollow objects.
>>2829540I wonder how long this shop needs to break even.
Does Bambu actually do anything special, or is it just hyped by retards whose only other printer was a broken Ender 3
>>2829540I had one of those 3D body scans done in addition to an internal DXA scan as part of my fat loss program. If you ever get one done, bring underwear with a padded crotch. The scanner can see contours through thin fabric so unless you want your body scan in include the shape of your twig and berries, something thicker than standard cotton underwear is required.
>>2829607It's a next gen printer. It basically calibrates itself and prints without a fuss. Before the Bambu, this was Prusa territory with Prusa pricetags. In that sense a $200 "just werkz" 3d printer is a big deal. But to answer your question: no it doesn't do anything special.
