Thread that perished: >>2981579>I'm new to electronics. Where to get started?It is an art/science of applying principles to requirements.Find problem, learn principles, design and verify solution, build, test, post results, repeat.Read the datasheet.>OP source:https://github.com/74HC14/ohmOPbake at page 10, post in old thread>Comprehensive list of electronics resources:https://github.com/kitspace/awesome-electronics>Project ideas:https://hackaday.iohttps://instructables.com/tag/type-id/category-technology/https://adafruit.comhttps://makezine.com/category/electronics/>Books:https://libgen.is/>Principles (by increasing skill level):Mims III, Getting Started in ElectronicsGeier, How to Diagnose & Fix Everything ElectronicKybett & Boysen, All New Electronics Self-Teaching GuideScherz & Monk, Practical Electronics for InventorsHorowitz and Hill, The Art of Electronics>Recommended software tools:KiCAD 6+CircuitmakerLogisim Evolution>Recommended Components/equipment:OctopartLCSCeBay/AliExpress sellers, for component assortments/sample kits (caveat emptor)Local independent electronics distributorsladyada.net/library/procure/hobbyist.html>Most relevant YouTube channels:W2AEWMoritz Klein>microcontroller specific problems?>>>/diy/mcg>I have junk, what do?Shitcan it>consumer product support or PC building?>>>/g/>household/premises wiring?More rules-driven than engineering, try /qtddtot/ or sparky general first>antigravity and/or overunity?Go away
>>2989599>suspiciously placed huge walnut with an eye in the middle
I saw a guy 3D print normal plastic with the traces of a PCB layout embossed into it. He then stuck down copper foil/tape and sanded off the high-spots, leaving just the embossed traces. Soldering it would definitely soften the plastic, but if you do it quickly it shouldn’t be an issue even with PLA.But the best way is definitely a fibre laser. They can punch holes through the FR-4 that are charred, allowing you to electroplate them with copper. I think dual-colour lasers can also make un-charred holes and slots and edge cuts using an ultraviolet or blue laser, but I’m not sure. Blue is definitely better for cutting through copper than IR.
>>2989609>huge walnutlooks regular-sized to me. wtf are pogo pins for?also, anyone noticed a fuckup?
>>2989623Pogo pins connect to the antenna, the thin metallic thing stuck to the inside of the shell. Obviously not a big deal considering it worked without the lid on.Maybe some smoke started quickly offgassing when the last of the batts were soldered on? Hard to say.
>>2989624Shorted the batteries with his tweezers turned the tip red hot.
>>2989610>even with PLADoubt, but maybe with a lot of flux and high temperature one can do it.
>>2989674It takes like 5 seconds max to make a joint to a non-power component. Even if the plastic under the component melts, if you don't deform it it won't be an issue, and it won't heat up enough to impact the structure of the whole board. Unless you're making 10x10mm mini boards. Making your board like 3mm+ thick probably helps.You can always anneal your PLA.
>>2989599>Where to get started?Babby's first circuit.
>>2989690>Babby's first circuit.
>>2989676Pla is half-step up from hot melt glue… it melts in your car.The whole premise is ridiculous.Real PCB material is probably cheaper than the pla.
>>2989624>antennaahhhh, right! ty.>>2989628>Shorted the batteries with his tweezers turned the tip red hot.yep. space is so cramped that when he released the pressure on the tweezers, he ended up shorting positive to the ground.wtf do you even find lipo cells this small? in vapes or some shti like that? I think I've seen a vape battery in a video someone did and they looked bigger tho...
>>2989706If you anneal it, the heat deflection temperature goes up past ABS or even polycarbonate, to 150C or so. To anneal something flat, just turn your bed up to 100C after it’s printed and chuck a towel over it for an hour. If you’ve ever tried to plastically weld with a soldering iron, you’ll have a good idea of how poor a thermal conductor plastics are, only a few millimetres around your iron tip gets molten. If thats beneath a layer of copper, then it will hold its shape.Fibreglass FR4 can’t be 3D printed, so its cost is moot when discussing this method of prototyping. You could print a negative then apply a thermoset resin like epoxy, maybe with fibreglass, and do the same technique on that instead. But epoxy is definitely more expensive per kilogram than PLA.
>>2989720>watching some man from africa read a chatgpt scriptishygddt
>>2989728sounds like you watched it, senpai
>>2989720nigger
>>2989725> PLAIs literal waste from making greek yogurt, they didn’t know what to do with all the lactic acid from the processes until 3D printing came along.
>>2989745Pretty sure it’s corn/maize derived. Biodegradable if you own a 50C+ bioreactor!
>>2989745>Is literal waste from making greek yogurtHey! They could mix it with some fluoride (waste from steel making) and put it in our toothpaste.
>>2989747> Biodegradable if you own a 50C+ bioreactor!No, 50 deg C won’t do it any longer… I’ve been tempering it my PLA. Over and over. So now it’s harder than a diamond, denser than osmium, and melts 5 times higher than tungsten.Actually, I’m thinking I can make PCBs from Turds if I temper them….I can’t afford a $2 phenolic FR2 PCB after I bought a $3000 printer and a $1500 PLA drier, and a PLA subscription service. I’m glad I can eat the PLA though… thanks for letting me know.
Do I recall correctly that surface mount electrolytic capacitors are difficult to hand-solder? I made my layout with thru-hole ones instead. I need a 1 uF bipolar capacitor to remove the DC offset from an audio signal and I've heard that ceramics have "microphonics".Also does anyone know a good SMT equivalent of the 1N4148 diode? I found one with a SOD-523 package but I think that might be a bit on the small side, all my other components are 0805.
>>298973010 seconds of it, Big Chaks.
>>2989757>capacitorsWhat's the cap doing? Doesn't look like it's a cap to ground, for any series caps in an audio circuit I'd want to use film caps. Though if it's under constant DC bias, an electrolytic isn't the end of the world, they can actually be pretty low leakage if you overspec their voltage rating. Polymer electrolyte caps should be better than conventional liquid electrolyte caps by any relevant metric.>a good SMT equivalent of the 1N4148 diode?1N4148W is what I'd go with. The WS is a small and somewhat delicate SOD-323 package (still larger than a SOD-523), but the W is in a larger SOD-123. There's also always MELFs, which are bigger still. Pic related shows MELF, 123, 323, 523.
>>2989780
Question for /ohm/: is there any money in electronics repair? Do people even look to repair stuff in 2026? Can you even make a living wage with it?
>>2989790Yes, but it seems tough. I know a guy that specialises in television and home audio, he does both home-call installation and repair. So I guess he's already effectively filtering for whate repairs are and aren't worth attempting. Because of the labour cost, you can only really effectively repair things that are sufficiently valuable. If that's new electronics, then it's often difficult to repair thanks to tiny SMDs, custom programmed MCUs and ASICs, and proprietary software tools. You might have a chance with those for items popular enough to heve been reverse-engineered, like smartphones, but microsoldering doesn't seem very appealing.The market I'd aim for is analogue audio, especially vintage stuff but not only. Recapping amps and crossovers is easy on the eyes and the hands, while you're at it you can sell them bluetooth receivers and pre-terminated speaker cables. The harder fixes are still relatively easy to troubleshoot, by measuring Vbe and bias currents and such, and with repeating audio signals it's pretty easy to use even the shittiest scope. Even newer stuff can be pretty easy to work on, unless it's class-D or some sort of fancy multimedia HDMI amp.I volunteer locally with a "repair cafe" once a month, there's definitely a lot of people out there looking to get broken things fixed. But not many people willing to pay a lot for that. If you can replace a micro-USB socket in a bluetooth speaker in ten minutes, maybe it's worth it. But more often than not it takes half an hour just to take it apart.
Is easyeda stealing all my data?
>>2989780>>2989781Thanks, the MELF package looks like what I want, in fact I had some in a smt "practice kit" but didn't know what they were called.The circuit has 3 caps in series at various places to remove DC bias that is introduced from OTAs, or to centre my waveform around 0 V after applying a DC offset. I think it's important to remove the DC around the filter feedback loop.To be honest, this is not high-fidelity audio, just square and sawtooth waves, and I wonder if film caps would be overkill. I'm just using basic bipolar aluminium electrolytics on my breadboard which are about 1/8th the cost of the equivalent film cap. Easiest of all would be a smt ceramic cap but I've heard that it's "conventional wisdom" not to use them to decouple audio.
>>2989797>The market I'd aim for is analogue audio, especially vintage stuff but not onlyInteresting. Thanks! I guess that makes sense.I was hoping for some computer stuff since I know a lot more about it.>But not many people willing to pay a lot for that. If you can replace a micro-USB socket in a bluetooth speaker in ten minutes, maybe it's worth it. But more often than not it takes half an hour just to take it apart.Yeah, 90% of things are unprofitable since the replacement is cheaper than the time it takes to open and diagnose something. Items that have nostalgia and sentimental value are the only things people are willing to pay to have them repaired.
>>2989812Yeah I’d just use electrolytic caps, probably 50V rated or more. Though in your case it looks like biases will be going positive and negative, so you’ll want to consider bipolar electrolytic caps.
>>2989856Out of interest I tried swapping my 1 uF bipolar aluminium electrolytics with 220 nF polypropylene film capacitors. Now my square wave slopes downwards, but it still sounds the same. I'll probably stick with the electrolytics.
>>2989867this is with the 1 uFresonance is looking nice :^)
>>2989720Youtube is so cancerous right now, how they manage to get people to listen is beyond me.
I aligned everything to the grid this time (sort of) and used a consistent trace width. I feel like the layout could be more compact, but it still comfortably fits within the 10x10cm square that seems to be some price break point at JLCPCB
>>2989890Gonna cram in some pin headers for input/output connectivity? Both for power and signals.Also looks like a few of those blue traces could be a bit shorter, and some of the pads and vias could be spaced a bit more from nearby traces for clearance reasons. I also like to ensure vias of different nets (and any traces or footprints on the reverse layer really) are spaced apart from one another, such that the ground fill can get between them. You could also thicken up the power traces if you want, but nots not a big deal for this kind of circuit.You can also use Mitxela’s PCB trace melting KiCAD plug-in if you want to make your boards look cooler.
>>2989894Yes this is about 95% done, I'll connect the pin header tomorrow. I know I should try and fit as much as possible on the top plane, so is it fair to say that the *number* of vias isn't so important, but I should optimize to minimize the length of traces on the lower layer?Once I am satisfied with the connectivity, I'll turn grid snapping off to space out the traces a bit more nicely. Good pointer about the ground fill.I'm a bit annoyed I have to waste an entire half of a dual flip-flop IC to make my frequency divider, but the single flip flop I ordered turned out to have much faster edge transition requirements than the rest of my circuit can provide. Maybe I could wire it up as a second frequency divider, to provide a sub-sub-octave....
>>2989900>Maybe I could wire it up as a second frequency divider, to provide a sub-sub-octave....I'd just wire it up with pads to solder wires onto, and a pull-down resistor or jumper on each input if needed. That way you can wire it up to whatever you want if you ever need to.
>>2989599i want to build a dtmf tone generator to revive a rotary dial phone without janky ass microcontrollers doing shenanigans and use a tp5088n tone generator chip, i got everything figured out except interfacing the chip with the actual phone line, the datasheet gives this very simplistic schematic, would this actually work? wouldnt the dc current of the phone line fry the transformer? for the ringing ac im not concerned since i want to place this thing after the on/off hook switch
>>2989936Maybe the transformer has a high enough ESR to handle continuous DC?
>>2989599why haven't IC manufacturers capitalized on photovoltaic inverter ICs the way they have with SMPS ICs? you can find hundreds of different ICs for buck converters, boost converters, flyback converters, full bridge converters, etc. but it seems solar is always done with an MCU.
>>2989936>wouldnt the dc current of the phone line fry the transformer?of course notyou'd use a 600:600 ohm transformer which is the load that a typical phone puts on the linehowever, you def need a hook switch or else the phone is forever busylike every asian tranny hookerbut i'd suggest stuffing in a portable miniature secretary phone instead, as it has all the circuitry and buttons already
>>2989941ill order the thing from aliexpress and hook it up, at worst i'll fry my modem
>>2989938Because a proper MPPT algorithm is a looping process. Measure voltage and current, multiply them together, and vary the duty-cycle until the product is maximised. Even without the seeking logic, multiplication like that is a pain to do analog.I’ve seen some cheap mock-MPPT ICs, where you program in a maximum power voltage via resistive divider, and its feedback loop attempts to keep that constant. Might be 5% less efficient than a proper MPPT algorithm, but it’s much simpler and cheaper. It was a Chinese brand chip like this that I used.
finished routing and attached the edge connector. I think this is looking better than my previous attempts. Tried to keep the jumps on the bottom layer as short as possible, it will otherwise be ground, +/- 12 V and +5 V
>>2989999I more or less didn't bother with ground fill on the top layer because there are so many traces that I end up with a lot of isolated areas. The back ground plane is fairly unbroken, thoughthanks for reading my blog
>>2990009Stitching vias. Needs more stitching vias to cover the long traces going to the pin header.
>>2990009>>2990017Yeah I think either a bunch of stitching vias, or at least go out of your way to push the power traces to the very perimeter, like I've done here with the 5V rail. Such that no ground-referenced pads are outside them, ideally no signal traces either. R12, R67, etc. have a pretty roundabout return path.
>>2990009Also C25 is backwards, if it's polarised.
>>2990017>>2990041>>2990042thanks anons, it's useful to be able to run these by people who know what they are doing. I tried harder to route the power traces and I think they break up the ground plane a lot less now?
What is this mystery pin?I spotted a shiny thing on the carpet. It's not from any project of mine. I don't recognize this type of pin at all. It must have fell out of a device or appliance. I have no clue what though. Nothing around the house appears to be malfunctioning.
>>2990128NEMA connector?
>>2990131Far too small.0.4mm thick13.88mm length2.54mm at the wider part1.41mm at the thinner partNot magnetic at all.
>>2990128>>2990136USB A contact?
>>2990138Looking closer, 2.54mm seems way to wide for that. It still looks like a connector from some sort of plug. Especially given the plating, wear, being non-ferrous, and the indent on the smaller side.
>>2990062Yeah that looks good. C29 looks a bit isolated, but it doesn't matter since the top-side ground-plane connects it to C24. It's not necessary anymore, but if you wanted to, you could run the traces from the pin-header to the THT caps on the top-side of the board, then run bottom-side traces from the THT caps to the rest of the board.
>>2990142I hope it won't matter too much because I just ordered the board, lel. At that point in the board the top layer ground plane leads right back to a ground, pin so I'm hoping it should be fine.The boards were about 50 cents each for 10. I don't know how JLCPCB do it. I suppose they're subsidized by their government as part of a plan to achieve global dominance or something.
Got hired by my friend to do a smart meter lora project for him for several buildings. This is great. I love doing shit like that, plus i can do it literally 10x cheaper than the cheapest commercial solution.All those chinkshit parts i impulsepurchased from ali over the years and never used will finally come in handy. I have such a stock of them i don't even need to buy anything else kek
>>2990179Check the current prices for the things you need to replenish and include/mark up that cost in your invoice.
>>2989599Which button do you need to press to turn on the LED?
>>29902642 or 5
>>2990128I figured it out. It's a placeholder for the analog ground on an HDMI to DVI-D cable.
>>2989757For SMT caps, the lead is on the bottom J-lead. You don't want to tack the edges with an iron. You want the whole lead to be soldered to the board. Best for a hot air station work. See image.
>>2990425Flux and capillarity will cover the whole lead just fine as long as you have enough protruding pad to soak the heatDon't want to heat caps too much
>>2990425>>2990427interesting anon. I'm glad I decided to go with through-hole electrolytics though, they will probably be less painful to work with.Just waiting for all the parts to arrive now......
>>2990062Looks like its coming together nice.Some points I have found for your consideration.1 and 2: No right angles, the board manufacture may or may not have improved etching processes controls in place and its best to design your board to be manufactured from anyone. Etching chemical may pool in the corners and the trace may fail over time. Its just good manufacturing process to eliminate fail points for a process.3. Now that you have used the grid to line up all your components, you can now break-it to line shit up.4. You got the space here. Why are the traces bunched up? Move the bank of resistors north and force yourself here to have the bottom traces for the resistor start going south and fan it out nice.Make it beautiful.
>>2990427One end for SMT caps is typically tied to a ground plane. ISO-fine for one time fix, ISO-not-so-fine for manufacturing.
>>2990432Thanks for the pointers, although I'll have to use them to inform future designs, as this board is already ordered.I was dimly aware of the "90 degree corner etchant trap" concept, but is it really still a consideration in current year? My traces are 0.3 mm.I see that one of those traces in area 4 goes uncomfortably close to a pad, but hopefully I can get away with it.
>>2990435From experience: First prototypes never make the cut for manufacturing. You have more knowledge now then when you started and best practices are best. Hunt down the IPC standard pdf files that have been posted on the net and learn from the process and manufacturing engineers experience from the past to make you a better designer.Are you having a fun time doing this?
>>2990432>Etching chemical may pool in the cornersNever heard of that issue with any fab house, and even my own etched boards don't suffer from it.>>2990434Is roasting an electrolytic cap with hot air ISO-fine?>>2990435In future you can change your design rules to force larger clearances, might make avoiding situations like R34's pad 2 easier. In principle these should be changed to be at least as restrictive as your chosen fab-house, but I've never had any issues relating to fab house clearances.
>>2990437>Is roasting an electrolytic cap with hot air ISO-fine?They are designed for hot air [re]flow ovens.
>>2990436This is only ever going to be a hand-soldered hobby project thing, but it will still make sense to look at the standards for future projects. I guess it is fun - although for one-off circuits, I'm still imagining that strip board and through hole components are my best option. But maybe I am living in the last century.>>29904370.2 mm spacing between that pad and trace, but at least the trace will have the solder mask covering it...............
>>2990439>but at least the trace will have the solder mask covering it...............This is where you need to know your board shops tolerances.This passed my light-cones (eyes) today. Maybe something you would like.https://hackaday.com/2026/05/12/another-gift-to-the-world-from-cern-their-entire-set-of-kicad-libraries/https://gitlab.com/ohwr/cern-kicad-libsLooks like 18k footprints library.
>>2990441Looks like I am in the clear, but I'll tweak my design rules settings anyway for next time.Thanks for the link, 18k footprints sure is a lot.
>>2990441Cmon man, my package manager already takes like 5 minutes to confirm that there are no updates to my footprint, symbol, and 3d libs each.
>>2990442Now what is the tolerances for solder mask registration? Is there a chance the mask maybe offset from the pad that the trace is exposed? I'm not trying to be a dick. These are things for consideration when you manufacture boards. Good manufacturing practices.
>>2990443>5 minutes to confirmSounds like you got five minutes for games now. Your welcome.
>>2990444this is all useful stuff that I wasn't specifically aware of, so thanks. I can't actually find figures on the tolerance for the alignment, so I have decided to believe that it will be fine. Guess I'll find out when they arrive.If it all turns out to be a disaster and that trace and pad somehow get connected, the only consequence is that I lose the use of 1 out of 8 board addresses, no big deal.
>>2990447No thank you. I had to leave a career in contract electronic manufacturing for personal moral reasons. I loved the work. Keep posting I would really like to see the progress.
>>2990425>J-lead.>>2990431If you go down the SMT path, as you should, then definitely go for this type of a cap and not the through hole. If you're doing SMT, a soldering iron should not be your primary soldering tool.When I do SMT, I always use a stencil. I can't even explain how much faster spreading solder with a stencil is vs. a soldering iron. Heck, sometimes it's OK to just squirt some paste out of syringe and spread it that way if you don't have a stencil.Also, oftentimes you don't even need electrolytics and can get away with MLCC or tantalums. tl;dr: if you're doing SMT, everything should be SMT including the electrolytics. That simplifies the BOM, cost, and speeds up assembly.
>>2990520Here is an AI blurb on esr.The ESR values can vary significantly based on the type of capacitor:Capacitor Type Typical ESR RangeCeramic Capacitors 0.01 - 0.1 ΩAluminum Electrolytic Up to several ΩTantalum Capacitors Higher than ceramicsUnderstanding and managing ESR is essential for optimizing the performance and longevity of capacitors in electronic circuits.
>>2990522ESR is not that big of an issue in modern circuits if you know how to avoid oscillation and instability. Modern caps will outlive device's useful lifespan if you know how to manage the temp. Modern caps will easily do 10k hours at max temp. Orders of magnitude at lower operating ranges.MLCCs almost always fail because they were soldered with a soldering iron or the board was flexing too much due to temp changes. The reasons why you'd choose electrolytics over MLCCs or tantalums is the need for ca cap to operate at higher voltages, or you need higher capacitance or want to reduce cost.PS: and don't use AI for this shit. Use your fucking head., Don't outsource thinking to a machine.
So how much should I trust these counterfeit Scyllac capacitors (normally $10k+ each) being sold for $1.50?
>>2990537Even less than the ebay sellers quoting $120 for an m4 mac mini.
>>2990524>device's useful lifespanWe come from a different school of thought. Your being a dick. I don't outsource thinking to AI. I'm just not investing time-energy into replying to you for your shitty attitude.
>>2990576>shitty attitudeSays a guy who using an AI to craft responses and when he's proven wrong, he claims the other guy is being a dick and has a shitty attitude. Your attitude sucks and that's why you know so little.
>>2990520If you’ve got stencils and hot air, you’re probably right. But I think this anon is stuck with a soldering iron, also stencils are kinda expensive. To the point where it’s cheaper to get them to solder the components on for you.>>2990524MLCCs also have a distinct voltage dependence to their capacitance to watch out for. And microphonic behaviour. Electrolytics don’t have that. But you wouldn’t catch me dead using a tant.>>2990576You posted shit about ESR unprompted, nobody asked about ESR in the first place. Why would you go out of your way to do that?
>>2990613>If you’ve got stencils and hot air, you’re probably right. But I think this anon is stuck with a soldering iron, also stencils are kinda expensive. To the point where it’s cheaper to get them to solder the components on for you.NTA but you don't even need hot air. You can do it with a cheap hotplate. I've used a syringe to dispense solder paste onto pads and have placed components with tweezers. Surface tension just pulls all of the components in place and I rarely had bridges or soldering failures.Hot plate element is like $15 (or less) and you need a temp PID controller or even better, an Arduino, so you can program the temperature ramps.Soldering SMD with an iron is not only slow but also damages components.
>>2990615isn't it difficult to get the entire surface to heat up uniformly without hot spots?
>>2990615>cheap hotplateEh, if you're doing SOICs and 0805s and don't have stencils, I think I'd rather use an iron. Hand-dispensed solder paste would be worth considering if it were a bunch of 0402s, or DFNs or other leadless chips. Number of parts is another factor of course.>Hot plate element is like $15 (or less) and you need a temp PID controllerLooked into this myself, those hotplates have a PTC heating element, so an off-the-shelf PID controller won't work very well. PID algorithms assume the input duty-cycle will produce a proportional dT/dt regardless of state temperature, but here that proportionality constant changes significantly as a function of state temperature. I expect you'd end up with a very sluggish system, but it might still be fast enough for normal reflow curves. With an arduino you'd be able to use a PID algorithm followed by a correction equation/lookup table.Even cheaper and easier would be to manually control the temperature with a TRIAC dimmer while watching a thermocouple. Going blindly open-loop probably wouldn't be the end of the world either. Not like manual hot-air reflowing follows a proper cooling curve.>Soldering SMD with an iron is not only slow but also damages componentsSource? Seems like using an iron can be significantly quicker, putting less heat into the components. I can't imagine the thermal expansion/contraction of components is a sufficient factor unless you're somehow blasting heat into the component but not the board. MLCCs seem the most likely to break from thermal stress, but even then they're designed to handle some amount of it. Never had a hand-soldered MLCC break on me in my years of hand-soldering 0805s and 0603s.
>>2990624>isn't it difficult to get the entire surface to heat up uniformly without hot spots?No, they're made to be uniform. You can find pictures of people testing them with a thermal camera.If you want to go third-world, a clothes iron with an arduino can also work. There's so many people showing this method online (YT, Instructables etc).
endless options on AliExpress to burn your house down, it seems.Why on earth do they make USB-powered hot plates, that seems like a lot of juice to pull through a USB connection
>>2990439>at least the trace will have the solder mask covering it.Just FYI, solder mask is incidentally an insulator (bonus!) but is not intended as one and should not be used deliberately as one. Safety standards are explicit about this, but it's best to consider it a general principle even if you're not going to be going through that kind of evaluation.
>>2990643The USB ones I've seen before are very small, 5x5cm sort of thing. On a 65W PD supply that's slow, but not completely unreasonable. Those Alientek ones are bigger (104x64mm), but they can do 140W PD and 200W from DC, and claims 120s heat up time to 260C.I was going to make my own reflow plate, since there is a big price difference between the little PTC hotplates you wire up yourself and those. But taking a closer look, these things solve a lot of the problems that are difficult to solve with a soldering iron and a 3D printer, namely the heat resistant housing. House fires aren't really a risk considering you turn these things on, use them for 5-20 minutes, then turn them off again. Not like a 3D printer that you leave for hours unsupervised. My only problems are as follows:- Lots of them say they're for preheating, and alientek claims many other hotplates only go up to 260C, so may struggle reflowing a board on their own.- Most of the reflow plates look to use simple temperature setting interfaces, which are likely constant temperature regulators, instead of temperature-time curve controllers.- Why do I have to buy two different hotplates for soldering and chemistry, can I not get a 350C hotplate with magnetic stirring?And now I'm back to thinking I should make one or modify one. I guess adding magnetic stirring to a soldering hotplate is easier than the alternative. Assuming the hotplate itself isn't magnetic.
>>2990643>endless options on AliExpress to burn your house down, it seems.They ship tens of thousands of those and how many houses burn down from them?>Why on earth do they make USB-powered hot plates, that seems like a lot of juice to pull through a USB connectionbecause USB-C PD exists and you can do a fair bit with 240W? But yeah, I'd prefer something around 400W.
>>2990712hmmmm>>2990714Even then I've never seen any 56V 5A soldering hardware, only ever 20V/28V 5A or lower.
>>2990643>endless options on AliExpress to burn your house downyou preheating these things then going for a nuggie run?
>>2990633Haha… using an iron for everything was common practice in the 70s and 80s. If we had to put ends on a bunch of phono plugs we’d put them in the steam holes on the bottom of the iron and start tinning.
>>2990585Ya i don't keep the scale for esr in memory by capacitor type. I worked in medicine and engineering without a degree for I am competent.EAT DICK FAGGOT.
You lack comprehension for the post thread.
>>2990712>only go up to 260Cisn't there something to be said for low temperature solder for hobby projects though?Sn42/Bi57.6/Ag0.4 allegedly melts at about 140 Chttps://cpc.farnell.com/chip-quik/ts391lt/solder-paste-low-temp-15g/dp/SD02706
>>2990643I am tempted. Even if it's not very good it will let me recover $20 worth of ICs from other boards that I messed up in the past
>>2990842I’ve used it before, it solders nice. But it’s also somewhat weaker, much less common, and forms very brittle joints when mixed with leaded solder. Also not very useful for existing boards without special flavour solder.
>>2990850I'll have to look up review videos of these. Because they just regulate for a constant temperature, unlike the smarter anemic USB models.
Use case?
>>2990906they can be used to replace Compton valves in older designs
Why is my solder being outright repelled by my iron?>clean ur tipI've used tip cleaner and flux and it hasn't made any difference.
>>2991156>used tip cleaner and fluxcompletely inadequate for the situationto get rid of the black crud, you scrape it with the back side of an x-acto knife, or box cutteras soon as you see a hint of shininess, apply solder to tin itkeep going around until the tip front is all shiny and chrome
>>2991156If a good hard scrub (with something no harder than copper) doesn't bring back a tinnable surface, your plating is probably fucked. But I'd guess it's just too much crud. I find a scrub with a facial tissue or paper-towel (while hot) often works where copper wool doesn't.Citric acid powder might also work, idk.
>>2991156When you get a new tip, tin it and clean it a few times before you use it. Keep it clean while you work, and load the tip with a fresh blob of solder before you turn it off. Only use RMA flux and leaded 60/40 or 63/37 solder with your iron, and keep the iron at a moderate temperature.
>>2991156If the plating is really gone, tip cleaner will not help, and you will need a new tip. Tip cleaner is very aggressive and you should only use it in last-ditch maybe-I-can-rescue-this situations like, well, that black tip that won't take tinning for love or money. If it doesn't work you need a new tip.If you have used plumbing flux on the tip, it can completely destroy the plating. That's just one of many reasons soldering with flux is at least intermediate-level. Because you can choose the wrong flux.
>>2991156>>2991178>keep the iron at a moderate temperatureI would be more explicit and say to keep it at the lowest temperature practicable. Hot tips get eaten by oxidation and burn off flux way too quickly.
>>2991156Scrub off the junk and hope the plating isn't fucked. If the plating is damaged, the tip is effectively dead and it will erode very fast.Always clean the tip properly (use brass wool, NOT steel wool - check with a magnet to test for counterfeits) and keep it tinned to prolong the life. Properly cared for, a tip can last years with daily use.May be worth looking into tip care, they generally don't go bad like that unless you're doing something to damage it. Using overly aggressive fluxes, leaving it untinned (especially at high temperatures), or scraping with something abrasive can all very quickly degrade it.
>>2989599Why is a diode needed on the relay here?
>>2991279To prevent the inductive effect caused by the relay, so the reverse flowing current wont damage the transistor
Does anyone have some suggestions for some projects I could do to improve my my ability?I started an avionics apprenticeship a few months ago and I'm learning but slowly and I need my hand held most of the time. Would like to try and get better on my own but I'm not much of a self starter and don't know where to start.
>>2991290What exactly is it you want to train by making a project?>your ability to design circuit schematics>your ability to lay out circuits on a PCB or protoboard>your ability to solder and assemble circuits>your ability to test and troubleshoot circuitsOr something else?And what fields are you specifically trying to learn, I don't know shit about avionics.Here's some lists of projects:https://github.com/Rocheez/4chan-electronics-challenges/blob/master/list-of-challenges.pnghttps://github.com/74HC14/ohmOP/blob/main/ProjectCategories.mdBut some are "follow the instructions" type challenges, others are "design X from scratch" type challenges, with various stages in between. To some extent, the projects you build can be useful, especially instrumentation projects like a milliohm meter or a capacitor/inductor ring-tester.
>>2991295Well in my job I've gotta make/repair a lot of wiring looms and troubleshoot components/circuits, interpret wiring diagrams.I've got a bit of practice putting together looms now though I'm hardly a pro. Probably learning to understand how they work would be the most useful thing for me.For instance, the other day I was given this device, not sure what you call it but you plugged your headset in and 3 position switch to transmit on intercom and a radio PTT button, and I had to work out what all the wires were doing so I could alter these other ones that had a volume knob instead of the button.Anyway I'll take a look at the projects, thanks. Building useful stuff always appeals to me.
>>2989599how would i do pic related? it doesn't matter if it's edge or level triggered.>CLK is 200 khz, variable duty cycle>OUT gets triggered "on" with high CLK>OUT gets triggered "off" with low CLK (OR) high RST>if OUT is triggered "off" it remains "off" until the next high CLK>RST can be ignored with low CLKthe basic component would be a reset dominant SR latch, where CLK=S and RST=R. but i'm not understanding how to get the RST event to latch OUT "off" until the next positive CLK cycle.
hey guys, I need some help with USB stuffI have a charging dock for my Dualsense, it just needs usb c powerI also recently started using a pi pico 2 W as a dongle for it on my PC (https://github.com/awalol/DS5Dongle), and I would like to be able to "integrate" it with the charging dock, so I could use both from a single usb cable going to the pc.obviously the simple answer is a usb hub, but I wanted to know if I can "tap into" the usb-c connection of the charging dock, since that only uses usb-c for power and not data.if it requires adding a few components and not just wiring, that would be fine too.thanks in advance
>>2991351Just split it off of the charger PCB, or use a type C splitter cable with a type C to micro USB adapter on the Pico. There are other options too.
making an extruder board for my 3D printer.
>>2991389Cool stuff. What’s the motivation behind a custom board?
>>2991402I want to replace the OEM main board with an off the shelf part and making custom CAN tool head board is the least janky way to do it.
Just found rbdimmer.com, they sell a couple of TRIAC dimmer modules that are controlled via UART or I2C, which makes it nice and easy to drive a load without worrying about zero-crossing synchronicity. But the 8A module has awful LV/HV isolation so I’d only ever go for the 4A. Especially good for non-real-time control from a computer or raspberry pi or whatever.
>>2991404What off the shelf part do you need it to work with? Some sort of bed level sensor or accelerometer?
>>2991406I have a Manta m5p with a CM4 I want to install, the SOC the OEM used is barely adequate for the application. the CM4 might have enough UART's to connect everything but I also want to add a few things to the tool head, plus the printer is littered with Chinese STM32 knockoff parts that makes running main line klipper problematic, if the tool head board works out then I'll make a custom CAN load cell board also.
Alright, very cheap and questionably safe AliExpress hot plate is en route, do any anons have recommendations for solder paste for SMT boards? I don't have a stencil made, so I plan to just dispense from a syringe.A buddy recommended the low-melting Sn42/Bi57.6/Ag0.4 but I'm sure there are other factors to consider besides just melting point.If my calculations are correct, then everything here except the Pi will fit on my ~100 x 80 mm board.
>>2991412Oh the printer didn’t originally have a toolhead board. How does your board compare to other toolhead boards?
Ignition control board1/3
>>2991428Ignition control board2/3
>>2991426I'm using the schematic for the EBB36 as a guide so it's an EBB36 in a form factor to fit my printer. https://github.com/bigtreetech/EBB
>>2991429Ignition control board3/3Soviet ICs were used
>>2991428Wow, EPROM in a real project is cool. What kind of work does it do, just timing control?
I really want to buy an oscilloscope but don't want to spend 200-300$ on something I don't know how many times, how often I would useI'm getting into electronics, I want to learn embedded and circuit design as a hobby and not necessarily a job; ESP32 programming, analog audio circuits and processing, repairing things that break at home maybe toodo I hunt for a locally sourced 30eur old analog oscilloscope, or get a digital one? I think I'd get more use out of something I can connect to a PC, to also be able to look at the data more comfortably, collect it and run algorithms and analysis and whatever I'd like, but I don't know if a USB oscilloscope is a good idea, and if a cheap one has the necessary safety features, I don't want to kill both the scope and my PCalso, I'm in EU
>>2991444The downside with analog oscilloscopes is they can only show you repeating signals. Perfectly fine for audio use, but for microcontroller stuff that's pretty limiting. Some later/fancier CRT scopes have an ADC and the ability to swap into digital storage mode, mine does this but only stores a hundred or two samples, and these tend to be a bit more expensive. Also my CRT scope is way out of calibration, and it's only drifting more with time.You could get an alibay USB logic analyser as well as an analog scope, that will cover 90% of use-cases. The analog scope will show you discrete voltage levels on repeating audio signals and such,, while the logic analyser can sample non-repeating digital communications, and even decode their protocols for you. I've got a NanoDLA, it's pretty good. There's a cheaper one that also worked fine for me 99% of the time, but it could be a little strange to get connected, and apparently on Windows there's the possibility of a driver or firmware update bricking them.But that remaining 10% is non-repeating analog events, like inrush current surges and testing components to failure.A USB scope is definitely an option, I'd browse the EEVblog forum to see reviews of different models. If you're worried about damaging your computer with one, you can buy USB isolator dongles for $10 or so that should prevent computer damage. Same goes for the logic analyser.My biggest problem with USB scopes, the few times I've tried to use them, is the user interface on the computer itself. Dragging the mouse around on the screen to move dials and knobs, it can be cumbersome. And rando chinese software is never too reliable or full-featured. I'd want to find one that works with 3rd party open source software, like PulseView, they tend to be better.I got a handheld battery scope with 2 channels (1 channel is a toy). I picked the cheapest 2-channel one from an EEVblog forum post comparing them. It's decent, but the UI is a bit cumbersome still.
>>2991444>I think I'd get more use out of something I can connect to a PCSince you're a noob, you don't want that. All these cheap PC scopes have a shared ground so there's a super-high chance you will make a mistake probing and you will fry your scope and even worse, your PC's motherboard.Get a cheap digital scope. If you buy one of those old CRT-based scopes, they will be so heavy and complicated you will never use it.
>>2991428>>2991429>>2991431nice. what is it for tho?ps: should have used cyrillic for the labels & everything.
>>2989599what are the /ohm/ approved soldering irons/stations? i have a shitty no brand iron i got from a hardware store near my house and the tips are too big and it doesn't get hot enough for micro soldering so i need some recommendations.
>>2991518i have a quicko t12 (or knockoff, can't remember) that works fine for me. i've used it for small stuff as well as power electronics boards with heavy copper pours (t12 spade tip.)more people are recommending jbc based designs these days. geboon makes well rated soldering stations, like the tc22.
>>2991325JK flip-flop. Should have synchronous J and K inputs, as well as asynchronous reset and maybe set. Tie J high and feed clk into CLK, so the output goes hogh from a positive edge on CLK. Then pass clk through an inverter, OR it with rst, and feed both into the reset input of the flip-flop. If it’s active low, NOR it, or otherwise De Morgan the logic. I’d want to test this to see if the clock pulse at t=22 would result in the output being on for a split-second, but I suspect it wouldn’t.>>2991518If you plan on doing micro-soldering (idk, 0402 and smaller), then the JBC-like stations compatible with C115 or C210 handpiece are what I’d be looking at. If you need lots of power for copper lugs or XT90s or D2PAKs, going for a station that can also drive C245s at 100-200W might be worth considering.There’s quite a lot of YouTube reviews of these sorts of stations, there’s even an open source design I saw a build-log and review of recently, though I’d wait on that one for the next design.The Miniware TS1M looks pretty good to me, though the guy who reviewed the open-source station noted that many Chinese stations have unacceptable tip current leakage for sensitive electronics, not sure if a tiny doodad like the TS1M can have good isolation.I use a KSGET T12 station and an Si012-Pro with the same tips, but I am looking at upgrading to C245.
>>2991546>K flip-flop. Should have synchronous J and K inputs, as well as asynchronous reset and maybe set. Tie J high and feed clk into CLK, so the output goes hogh from a positive edge on CLK. Then pass clk through an inverter, OR it with rst, and feed both into the reset input of the flip-flop. If it’s active low, NOR it, or otherwise De Morgan the logic. I’d want to test this to see if the clock pulse at t=22 would result in the output being on for a split-second, but I suspect it wouldn’t.tried this in falstad but it's not working as expected. https://www.falstad.com/circuit/circuitjs.html?ctz=DwYwlgTgBAZgvAIgIwKgFwM6IAwDpsEECsqYIiRuALEQJwAcSRBAzC0lVQExWogBGFbKgAOghM1QA3CBVQBbTBQCmAWiQoAfACgoUYACkA0gDEANmBHmA9iKgAPRElpcoPbG-r03VYbEQAbAgA9Dp6wADuDk4uPh5IAR7uqPAIwqG6+lGOyIlxUAlJ2PQpOCFh+gBK0QgBVG4A7K4srlxNpcgNqBGpXCmyyAQKAIb2UohcuCRQ-GDDWAiTJBnh2Yj0Hr7xSK5bHekVwACSNRq7BAUNAVB7-mmoGGY4U6gAFmByK-oA8tA5SFcbglGrsEvtyplIqdAVQWlANjcWuCvsBqjkEbDmrskXcAd1ev1EFQulB5KNxosXjM5gslqgACYAVzQAE8AMIskBmZTPFAotaLLwgqBsa5tPp3A6QgXioHXUVy5GHAAypzyXGKBTyAKCktETghqxqCpYRGaLGuVDBev5xotIrNIvt4qVkLMADsagjZd7fOD0DyEGzlUZDfoPV7NnCMXV-WhA5UAMoAFTDwAjOQV7idYuKccD3wAqqnbTkuELs1m-TbDgKq5sLska5CALI1Lb5K1i6upKVGnJ1YXe9rN-vrJJNeENvy9tMC4euZytEezlHWKDKd1OXhQDAiJy61L2XX7+41YOhirhOwUvwYcgSMPXqAUlgPB94PmHYLWQ7rzeICSe4Hh0x76meORJqmV76DeZS7g+ywwcAcEIG+CG8mmP5-huW7ICUu6ntaR4nvBORFtBmTPre77PIQ2BXFwtAsLQNDsFwSFUbBL6IOh96YSi2HaMAwTgBAOhAA
>>2991325>>2991546>>2991642https://www.falstad.com/circuit/circuitjs.html?ctz=DwYwlgTgBAZgvAIgIwKgFwM6IAwDpsEECsqYIiALLgBxLUBMAbAJwPNLasOogBGiRbKgAO-BINQA3CANQBbTAICmAWiQoAfACgoUYABEAYgBswwkwHthUAB6IkAdkZRHz+tmounqeAiFRJJFkAem1dYABZW0R6B3ooegpsKABmbAoEpJ8cBFCdPQB5aDsEFPjE5PVyrNgcvPCAd2jkJGrKigyK7L9csL0mkqQOzPbOj26hev7mobHPVwTx2p6p4AHEMoTEqGT6RIne-LXmyqcdrYoD1YBJZpUUxk9Y+JV6aie4g6gMYxxcEigAAswCE+sAAIIAOwAJndZgkiM57uVEVcwcVEK93gk4lBXh4cfQvjJkIRDuEQHd3B8XtTUg8vuRkKoHKRJH8CChviT-JJoZRcMwhRREWUPPRmPQiKzVgBzKkElIPPF0lJEInLSZg9YIfE0vHw55oo46tTDCp4h5PGq+LUmu5WkaWx6E42NB0u554ijUXafTXk6YlZEI5ybKWMN16ABKd3VnhUvrxRGGif8vkcqAavg1MBJHH8cgAhjZ2Qh6P9ULwwEWsOXK6tTT7kmnk288b6o8dg82Da1vUm013TWKOy2I2Ou-Lg6O1EjR+m6mDKTP3GPLWu54z7Cy2RzsFyMDypPy-PhiI4kEQGGrr48UkNA8AMbqki3B7POwGoPmyasobCwYTiozBIvCIGRgGNx3L2aj9iob59rmOTfL8Z4AsCoL2j2BBISqiJIcOMG4a2CGDl+tpPsYkIOii87xGklzfmgSiIAAwgAMgA0gA+tG1wAMoAKJUTRwbgaBBqprMXwsex3E8YY4IcRxT6mhJYHDBRS5HEUcLDJJZFQKBRHicMVRtvMrRdrGwaMARhmPJ4JnLJmUDZjEPgktQKTyCWZYVgC1a1jElZQNCACuaAAJ5sdFIDGKxZ7YL5qzUXG7YWSo8ZQIwTGUegSXRgJAAqokwc5SI+lAPqyUlnG8UpKk8QU0Z8aVaknF4zjJC5lGNl1hnVX1Onuj25Etr2RpQWCel2QRWU5VUNl3PZzitAmTkuG83RuR55ZeYgDhMcWpahUFNZ1oFqCRTFcUJUleApeVgzmWc8IycxSX6Dx+idYM73vW9kH9dqMzA+crhdulr2dEkLjmv6BVyQgP0NU+FhQEokL2NQqAYMIiB48sNgaoTPTNOjfThNYZb+BgTIkFMNMBBs+NMk92CMFKT7BBYYKY9jGy+d85PE74pMiChJTFWV1N6LTKEM1hugs2WIvK2eKCrHzAtYzjyD42L3SS1A5P+CUBQAKolQACjbCDy8AisU5rnMEE4EopMwIoPjzOv80cgsGx0RtEybZP2KgJQ-X9Tsu-TjOBmrbPfBzuDa2CutB-rlAAgT4ck5Hhvx6zrtJ8zCtlxr6eZ0c2fAME4AQNoQAokay, i think i got it. this was harder than i expected, man i am shitty at digital logic. and i wish falstad had an easy way of letting me define an arbitrary waveform for the CLK/RST relationship.
>>2991444Decent used ones hold their value. You will learn a ton with a scope that you wouldn't otherwise. The only reason they're not a must for beginners is the expense. Any scope is better than no scope, but you'll get the most for your money with a Rigol or a used Tek lunchbox. Analog scopes are very old now and can quickly turn into repair projects. A lot of the regurgitated advice to go analog for price/performance is decades out of date.
Amazon recommended me this, any good for electronics assembly? Seems cheap enough to take a gamble
>>2991715Donegan Optivisor
>>2991715it's fine. it works well>>2991716>$128come on now.
>>2991740Good tools are worth it. You don't know what you're missing until you use something better than Amazon/Ali/Temu offerings.
>>2991765>You don't know what you're missingbeer, hookers and weed
>>2991279Snub a dub
Do you anons think I can use a hot plate to recover a SMT IC surrounded by through hole components? Obviously the board won't sit flat on the hot plate. I wonder if I can get away with cutting off all the solder joints underneath, maybe even sanding the board a bit to get it flat (the board is a dud so it doesn't need to be kept intact)
>>2992004>use a hot plateuse chipquikhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7kyaz4Zrd78
>>2992004Get a length of heavy gauge solid copper wire and bend it into shape so that it makes contact with all the pins at once, then wrap the other end around your soldering iron tip a few times.
>>2992004>Obviously the board won't sit flat on the hot plateYou can pile it up on sand or salt or whatever, it's what people do in a frying pan. Copper or brass or other metal shavings would be better, but sand works with enough time. You'd be reflowing every damn component though, I'd want to take those aluminium electrolytics off first so they don't boil.The solid copper wire method >>2992012 is probably what I'd try, but it's still a pain, and somewhat prone to delaminating pads if you're insufficiently careful.
>>2992010I'd actually never heard of that but it seems worth a look, thanks. There is some knock-off version on Amazon called "fast chip for quik removal of ICs"...>>2992012>>2992017Wire method sounds fiddly but worth a try (and I have wire, but not sand). It's the chip I want to save, not the board.Given that I'm posting anyway here's a progress pic, I am hand soldering everything for my first board, but I might try the second using the hot plate. I need to make 4-6 of them. Actually I got to take the new hot plate for a test drive earlier than I expected, because the first thing I did was solder a TL074 upside down. Hot plate allowed me to reorient it.I never thought I would take the surfacemountpill, but I can see the advantages.
>>2992035>There is some knock-off version on Amazon called "fast chip for quik removal of ICs"...You could always buy a chunk of bismuth for $10 or whatever and mix it with leaded solder until the melting point is nice and low. Indium and gallium are expensive, but a lead-tin-bismuth desoldering alloy should be decent and much cheaper.
My dad asked me to fix his trimmer and he wants it repaired because he can't find this model anymore. It doesn't hold the charge (it's like 10+ years old). I managed to open it up and this battery pack is completely dead.How do I replace it? What can I use in its place. Seems to be 2xAAA batteries. Where can I buy something like this? Thanks!
>>2992173It’s just two AAA rechargeable batteries in series. If you have room, you could replace it with a battery holder for a couple of off-the-shelf rechargeables. If not, you could either assemble your own pack from seperate cells (ideally ones with solder tags), or buy an existing one. Searching eBay or wherever should show plenty of 2.4V 2xAAA batteries, I know lots of cordless phones use similar batteries. If you do end up buying such a battery, it would be a simple matter of cutting the wires and splicing them together. Butt crimp terminals, heat shrink solder splices, or solder and heat-shrink will be your main options. I’d want to solder them with an iron, but it depends on what you’ve got and how much room there is. Alternatively, if there’s a connector on the other side of that battery, you should be able to identify it and find a replacement with that same connector, no splicing needed.
>>2992173They're just rechargeable NiMH AAAs. I recommend Eneloop (Panasonic). You'll have to solder (or spot weld if you have one) three joints: the positive and negative wires from the pigtail connector, and a series bridge on the other end of the pack.
>>2992176>>2992177Thanks!!Apparently, this type of a pack is used for wireless phones. They have a diff connector though. I don't have a spot welder and I'm weary of soldering batteries so maybe spending the money on a pre-made pack is the best option in this case.
>>2992180If you're careful you can push the pins out of the old connector housing and swap it with the new battery's housing. Just make sure the polarity is oriented correctly.
>>2992180Post image of connector.
>>2992180You could also forego the connector and solder the wires directly to the PCB.
>>2992181>>2992182I can't reach the connector. I can't see it... it's somewhere deep inside the device. The thing is tho, I can't even open it any further. There are no more screws left. Everything else seems to be clipped or welded. The external screws allowed me to remove the blades and the battery compartment had a cover + screw.Battery seems to be soldered to these wires so I don't think I have to open it (and probably break it) any further.>>2992183>You could also forego the connector and solder the wires directly to the PCB.... or do what they did and just solder the wires.Now I just gotta find this battery...
can someone explain what i would need to get to make my relay switch A: not knock out my esp8266 from sucking all the amps out of it, and B: not sending any pulses through the rest of the electric grid? I have AI help me with some of this shit becuase I'm a retarded newfag but every time i look around online it feels like I'm being asked one of two things: be horribly ripped off for components because local part stores arent in my area, B: get a decent deal on multiple whatevers and theoretically never ever use the rest and haul them around forever.I have no idea how to select and buy parts. I feel like I'm too stupid for stuff like this sometimes. building a gizmo to turn a fan on depending on indoor and outdoor temps.
>>2992229>explain- replace wimpy power supply by brawny alternative- add big ass cap across supply to smooth out spikes- use 2 diff supplies (with grounds tied together) one for sensitive parts, another for brute parts- isolate relay power from rest of circuit by adding diode in series, and a big cap in parallel- replace relay with power transistor, TRIAC, MOSFET, or solid-state relay
>>2992010you can get knockoff chiquik on aliexpress for a fraction of the price.
>>2992229You have to drive the relay coil with a transistor. Turning mains voltage off and on with a relay is not a good beginner project.
Respectfully seeking review on this PCB design. I’m making a low powered “dumb watch” (MCU runs at 2MHz, i2c is slow, and total power is like 7µa) and this is the first PCB I’ve ever made. Idea is that a coin cell battery clip is attached to the bottom of the board (negative terminal sits directly on exposed pad which is part of a larger GND fill). I believe this constrains all power and signal to the top layer, lest signal routes make contact with the negative battery terminal on the bottom, but it does make the signal routing pretty messy. Curious how to improve this; the i2c ‘bus’ was particularly hard to route but I tried my best and am hoping this works.
>>2992010> chipquikI fuckin love low-temp mystery metals and contamination in my joints. When components get hot, i love it when they fall off the board onto the hv power control pcb. I love the way the mystery metals oxidize into this grey nonconductive powder and cause cracking with thermal cycles.> why not use mercury?Yeah, at least I know what the metal is there.
>>2992259I haven’t worn a watch in 27 years. No need.
>>2992229Look into snubber networks for relays.You can isolate the whole thing with an optoisolator circuit on a separate power supply (or just a led and photodiode/transistor and a piece of heatshrink)
>>2992185man its so low current that you can just twist the wires properly and heat shrink themalso I'm sure someone sells that exact configuration on nimhdon't use lithium, you can use 2 double A or AAA NiMH batteries in a spring loaded housing if it fitsmake sure the housing puts the batteries in series, because a singular cell is 1.2, 2.4 is when two is in seriesyou can tell this like, 2 separate tabs and one connected tab, these usually come with cables coming out of them too
>>2992229Yeah I’d use an optotriac switching a proper triac, but that would require a properly isolated circuit layout, not something you’d want to do on protoboard.If you’re using a mechanical relay, you might be able to swap one relay for another that has a higher coil resistance, and so draws less power. I assume you’re switching it with a transistor and a freewheeling diode? Post schematic and current parts BOM.>>2992259Looks fine. You may want to add a little solder blob for the negative battery contact to touch. The ground plane and low frequency makes any shitty routing quite forgiving. Don’t be afraid to order a board and test. What MCU?
>>2992259you don't need a ground pour, put 3 or 4 pads for GNDwith such a small and low speed mcu the quality of the gnd barely matters I guessif you post the project folder I can try an alternative route
>>2992273It’s comfy to leave my house without a phone but I still like to know the time.
anyone who doesn't at least own an f-91W is not a real DIYer
>>2992288GND fill is mostly just for making routing easier, and don’t really see a downside to keeping it. Thanks for the help.https://mega.nz/folder/unRCzIjK#ODTxdGjxlZ3eZhUtUBLmVQ
>>2992292I can't even right click pick the bottom gnd fill zone, what gives?
>>2992296Not an expert in this, but is it the “selection filter” in PCBNew? I always toggle with the GUI depending on what I’m working on, but when I shared the file the zones part is unchecked as shown in the kicad_prl file.
>>2992298I didn't know such a feature existedanyways what do you think? 3v3 fill on top, GND on bottom
>>2992304Thanks for helping me, anon. The 3v3 fill on top is brilliant and definitely cleans things up. Do you see any issue with the green vias shorting to the negative terminal of the battery (red circle)? I thought that even signal traces would be an issue on that bottom layer within the red circle, since solder mask is the only electrical insulation.
>>2992318Unless you want to add an extra layer of lacquer, I’d want to avoid vias in there. If it was a static device that’s one thing, but something in motion with knocks and vibrations doesn’t seem like a robust design.Anyone have opinions on those lillygo LoRa watch devkits?
>>2992318you can put silkscreen, the white stuff, as an extra protection layer on top of them, but I assumed you were going to add slight amount of solder to that GND pad that touches the button cell? that would put a 0.1mm gap between the trace? you can add kapton tape there as wellis there a picture of the battery holder you gonna solder?
this could have been a really sleek low profile board were it not for those gigantic capacitors :(
>>2992327you can mount them sideways, or go for polymer smd caps?
>>2992329on reflection I suppose I could have used axial capacitors, I already had those ones in stock, though.Surface mount electrolytics sounds hard, although I will be trying my first hot plate soldered board soon which might make it more feasible than using an iron.
>>2992331I meant the niobium capacitors
This image just makes me think>NOT ELECTRONICS
>>2992333huh, I'd never heard of those. Thanks anon, interesting
>>2992336you know they also make flat solid polymer aluminum capshttps://www.jmbom.com/blog/capacitor/sp-cap-conductive-polymer-aluminum-electrolytic-capacitors/734look at all this marketing
>>2992339well gosh it seems like I have been living in the pasttruth be told I have very little idea what I am doing and it's a miracle I've gotten this far
>>2992287MCU is an STM32L072 in LQFP48 pkg. Low power usage is the biggest consideration and I’m trying to get 2+ years of battery life on a 180mAh CR2020 battery.>>2992321Never heard of that dev kit. TI made one too, but it’s been discontinued. Not really a fan of smart watches; already have too much junk that I need to remember to charge.>>2992325Yes, I’m planning on putting solder on the pad, but I’d rather have reduced failure risk on the bottom layer than prettier tracing on the top layer. They also make little springs for negative contacts, but I’ll try the solder dots first.
>>2992349At some point around the 1 year lifespan mark I’d be wanting to try incorporating energy harvesting. Amorphous solar cells are the obvious way, but a full wave rectenna might be able to work with the right electrostatic design. A little sprung magnet bouncing about inside a solenoid could charge while you’re walking too. Worst case you could have a wide power harvesting coil and a bedside magnetic transducer to trickle charge a device within a metre of it.Gonna have a backlight? A screen sleep option based on orientation or brightness?
Japanese capacitor company released some Chinese cartoons to promote their techhttps://www.yuden.co.jp/en/product/special/feremo_comics/
>>2992334It's a tank with oil spilling out
>>2992272>I fuckin love low-temp mystery metals and contamination in my joints.remove it with braid? also what components are regularly getting over 138C?
>>2992327I forgot to add a couple of resistors in the schematic and the board is unusable as a resultit's been nice knowing you, anons
>>2992436You can't cut a few traces and bodge them in?
>>2992477nah, the trace I'd need to cut is actually underneath an IC. And I need to make 4 of them, so they need to be right.time to wait for the replacement boards to be shipped I guess
>>2992436>it's been nice knowing you>>2992494>time to waitoh, got impression from prev post you were gonna do the only honorable thing, which is seppuku but you've decided living in shame is betterit isn't
>>2992499I figure the least I can do is leave the corrected PCBs in a box for somebody to discover in the future and continue the work I was unable to
>>2992494So you remove the ic, flip it upside down, and dead-bug skywire it after cutting the trace. Kids today.
>>2992393When that shit mixes with leaded solder it drops, probably below 80C, and also becomes extremely weak. But it should be pretty easy to flush it away with a solder wick and excess solder.>>2992494Bah, I shipped 4 boards with horrible bodges on them. Specifically, wires going to a voltage regulator because the included AMS1117’s 15V rating was too marginal for automotive use, and bent leads of a P-channel MOSFET because it was backwards.WHY THE FUCK DO P CHANNEL AND PNP TRANSISTORS SPAWN IN UPSIDE DOWN?
>50+ parts on perfboard, a couple hundred connectionskill me, the fuck was I thinkingNext time I'm ordering a circuit board, even if I have to populate it myself it's so much better than perfboard. Still gonna finish it at this point but man this is so ass
>>2992233>>2992236>>2992274>>2992287you fags are vastly overestimating my skill level.
>>2992690Are you at least using vero-board?
>>2992732I said post schematic you root
>>2992734I dont have one of those, but its also not necissary, imagine an esp8266 with 3 temperature sensors on the pins and two going to the relay which is this monster.https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2this thing is probably meant for actual arduinos but I didnt realize it would suck my esp dry like a 6 year old squeezes a caprisun because I dont know anything about electronics. i just dont want to buy off the shelf crap that doesn't do exactly what I want (take the temperature in multiple locations and do math to turn on a fan). my actual small electronics skill level is "i know what a trace is" and not really any further.
>>2992736Fair enough. Sounds like the relay box is drawing too many amps, but the question stands: is it just drawing more current than a GPIO pin can supply, or is it drawing more current than the ESP32’s power source can supply? If it’s the former, not much you can do besides adding a transistor module or whatever to switch it on and off. If it’s the latter, upgrade your power supply. What is powering the esp?
>>2992736>>2992760If you go to digital-loggers.com/iot2faqs.html you’ll see that the signal current should be just 0.2mA, which the ESP is more than capable of providing. I suspect either you’ve wired something wrong (ground reference maybe? inb4 capacitive dropper) or the iot relay is faulty.
>>2992761i dont know what you mean by ground reference but the relay pin ground is on the ground next to one of the 3.v pins on the very edge of the card. the relay pin is on d1 which i thought is safe enough, am I wrong there? flipping the relay also causes one of my monitors to turn off and on thats not even connected to the power splitter in any way, and I've tried powering it through the downstream splitter or on the always on portion of the relay with no differences in outcome.
>>2992762That wiring seems fine. Yeah I’m thinking it’s faulty. Ditch the ESP and turn the relay on with a 9V battery or whatever to see if it still causes power surges, or trips a breaker or whatever.
>>2992763i used a 9 v battery and no backflow happened and the thing smoothly switches on i guess. i dunno if that means my esp8266 is just dogshit, i can produce the exact model if you suspect it i also used slopgpt to do the coding but it seems to just be a standard Arduino relay command.
>>2992764yeah after putting everything back together the way i had it before the relay still causes the esp to stop taking any readings from the temp sensors until a power cycle. the wierd problem where my monitor would flicker seems gone for some reason though. maybe it would come back if i plugged everything back into the strip?
>>2992764>>2992765Ok, now try powering it from another 3.3V source, maybe two AA batteries in series will be close enough. If that works, try powering it from the GND and 3.3V pins of the ESP directly.Again, what's the power source for the ESP? A USB power brick?I'm guessing the monitor flickering is from some load feeding noise back onto the grid from switching a funky load, might want to look into an inline filter. But for now continue testing with nothing plugged in.
>>2992733Nope. Pretty much just this shit, but a little bigger. It's will be fairly densely packed when it's done.Already have a bunch from years ago and all the parts on hand so I figured I might as well use them. I should really stock better prototyping board.
>>2992690learn how to etch your own PCBs. i don't know why the reddit types (that's a lie, i know exactly why) are so opposed to etching. it's perfect if you only need 1 layer, or 2 layers if you're a masochist.>Y-YEAH BUT WHY WOULD YOU WANT TO DO THAT WHEN YOU CAN PAY JLCPCB $10 AND WAIT 3 WEEKS TO GET 5 BOARDS WHEN YOU ONLY NEED 1 BOARD NOW!!!!!!
is there a good way to switch 230V AC with a microcontroller? got about 12 components to control, and they should all be <1A, except the heaterwould a triac directly on the MCU IO pin work, or would i need to fuck around with optocouplers/a dozen parts for each thing i want to control?dishwasher timer assembly got stuck in drainage mode forever and replacements are very expensive, so i'm considering programming one
>>2992782If you have a reliable and repeatable process without too much labour, yeah. But if you don't have a laser printer, it's kinda shitty. I never had much luck with inkjet transparencies, the contrast ratio was never good enough for crisp traces and idiot-proof developing. Also my shitty photoresist film had thin spots in it. I prefer just hand-painting traces with etch-resistant lacquer instead.If anything, I'd recommend a CNC router or laser.>>2992786If you don't care about continuous control (e.g. PID) and just want to turn it on and off no more than once a second, probably just a triac, optotriac, and a couple of passives. If you want to do something like PID for pulse-skipping or full-on phase-angle control, you'll need to measure zero-crossing and trigger the optotriac synchronously to the mains sine wave.You can buy modules that do the hard parts for you, see:rbdimmer.comWhich I already found and shilled earlier: >>2991405They do boards with your optotriac and triac on them and just need jumper wires to a micro. They also do boards with their own pre-programmed chip that talks I2C or UART and outputs a proper synchronised signal, if you need that. It's cheaper on their website than on aliexpress for me.You could buy someone else's triac module, though these guys (and Kemo) are the only people I know that do a digitally controlled idiot-proof synchronous triac control.
I lack understanding regarding the workings of the baxandall bass/treble control.how do I properly display the controls digitally if the pots are linear? Right now I am just mapping the dB scale linearly like this: dBf = (float)(bitValue - 128) * maxDb / 127.0;the range of the controls is -15 to +15dB.bitValue is the 8 bit value sent to the digital pots. is this correct or should I use the amplitude gain function somehow: dBf = 20.0 * log10(gain);
>>2992782If I did circuit boards regularly I 100% would consider it.CNC milling boards is also appealing, but the lower precision is pretty big downside and I'd never recoup the cost unless I needed it for other things.
>>2992787granted i've only done it a few times, but i used transparency on my shitty $50 inkjet and it worked just fine for SOIC-8 and 0402 packages.
>>2992805Having the decibels proportional to the potentiometer position is probably the way to go. That means the actual gain equation is nonlinear.Also consider using fract and accum instead of float.
>>2992844so the 20*log equation?>Also consider using fract and accum instead of float.interesting. can you link me some video/guide on how to replace float with this?thank you, anon.
>>2992922Yeah. Though if you’re multiplying your signal by a gain, it will be signal_out = signal_in*10^(dBf/20). Exponentials and logarithms like that are computationally expensive, so I’d probably just use a lookup table instead, assuming you’re doing it live on a microcontroller.As for the Fract and Accum, they’re fixed-point data types that are optional in the C programming language, they’re implemented in the GCC compiler. Tried to use them in my arduino IDE ESP32 project, but whatever compiler that uses doesn’t support them. All I could read about the data-type was just occasional forum and stack-exchange posts. Again, fixed-point is kinda autistic and superfluous unless you’re pressed for processor power/time.
>>2992925optimization is not that important for this instance. I'll be happy if it works. Even with the on the fly calculations it's still fast enough not to have any noticable difference on the sluggish hitachi LCD. Now displaying dB for the audio pot works - 6dB is at 50%.but with the baxandall controls it's at 9dB when mid point - shelving when pot is at 50%:void showDecibel(byte x, byte y, bool showSign, bool showUnit, bool oneDecimal, int bitValue, float minGain, float maxGain) { lcd.setCursor(x, y); // Eingangsbereich absichern bitValue = constrain(bitValue, 0, 255); // Pegel berechnen float gain = minGain + ((float)bitValue / 255.0f) * (maxGain - minGain); // Schutz gegen log10(0) // if (gain < 0.001f) // gain = 0.001f; float dBf = 20.0f * log10(gain); // Auf gewünschten Bereich begrenzen //dBf = constrain(dBf, (float)minDb, (float)maxDb); float absVal = fabs(dBf); // Vorzeichen if (showSign) { if (dBf >= 0) lcd.print(F("+")); else lcd.print(F("-")); } // Zahl ausgeben if (oneDecimal) { if (absVal < 10.0f) lcd.print(F("0")); lcd.print(absVal, 1); } else { int value = round(absVal); if (value < 10) lcd.print(F("0")); lcd.print(value); } // Einheit if (showUnit) lcd.print(F("dB"));} showDecibel(8, 3, true, true, false, treble, 0.1778f, 5.623f);
>>2992931Ah, so you're not doing DSP, rather you're just calculating and displaying the gain of an analogue circuit using the second wiper of a 2-gang pot?>it's at 9dB when mid pointdB is a multiplicative measurement, it may be you just have the wrong offset? If it's a log pot it doesn't matter, even if the mid-point isn't mid-resistance, the calculation should still be correct. Are you measuring the gain difference of the tone control with an oscilloscope? It's possible you're measuring an area still on the 20dB/dec slope and not seeing the full gain change.Not sure what you mean by "shelving". Post images if you can, diagrams and/or waveforms.
>>2992932I'm just controlling a baxandall with 2 digi pots. I also have a baxandall logarithmic volume control circuit with another pot. 50% at the volume pot should be -6dB volume attenuation.For the baxandall it's different.>Not sure what you mean by "shelving". there should be no amplification/attenuation of the bass/treble when the pot is at 50%.Right now I'm just showing a simple percent scale.https://www.guitarscience.net/tsc/baxandall_2.htm#RIN=600&R1=22k&R2=22k&R3=22k&R4=10k&R5=10k&RB=100k&RT=100k&RF=600&CB=47n&CT=1n&RB_pot=Linear&RT_pot=Linear
>>2992777no longer needed. I begged ai for some help about the issue, after narrowing some constraints like me being a retard who cant just buy parts easily because i dont really know what i am doing, it came up with a pretty decent idea. run the pins power from the open gpio D and Rx. once I do that, I can hard cycle them in software and save the thing from having to restart, thanks for your general assistance regardless. also i dont know why but the monitor no longer flickers, though again, that could be that i have less stuff plugged in right now.
>>2992932turns out using a reversed log scale is not represantative of the baxandall setting.Problem it's not exactly logarithmic but also not linear, so since I already wasted too much time on this miniscule issue I'm just gonna display dB linearly from -15 to +15dB, even if it does not correspond to reality.
