Left to rightStanley FatmaxPicardHarbor Freight and two welded steel versionsVaughanPost 1 of 7
The Stanley was my first real framing hammer. I acquired it as a defective return while working at a store. A guy returned it because the steel shank came out of the rubber grip when it was still new. I epoxied the shank into the grip. Used it like that for years. Lots of abuse, heavy demo, general construction. I regularly used the claw to demo stuff like tile, stucco. Demo'd a few tiled bathrooms and floors that way. I did that on the exterior of a house smashing stucco for like 12hrs straight a couple days in a row. It was faster and cleaner than using a diamond wheel. The claw is worn down from all that.I liked this hammer for years. I liked that the grip felt like it gave a little bit of 'sling' to the strike as the rubber grip extended a little beyond the steel shank. The grip never separated from the shank again after I epoxied it. However, after years of abuse the grip did rip at the portion that extends beyond the shank. I glued that too and covered it in self-fusing silicone tape and kept using it like that a while.Post 2 of 7
The Picard is a hammer I bought after searching online for a next best hammer. I wanted a steel shank nigh-indestructible hammer to be my permanent hammer. It also incorporates another seemingly incidental or unadvertised feature that someone showed me at work, and from this hammer forward that's been among my criteria for a framing hammer; the smooth rounded concave surface behind the striking surface is useful for 'rolling' over a mitered joint, say to close a 1/32nd gap. It has a leather wrap handle and that looks snazzy. People commented on this hammer and asked me the brand of it when it was on my belt.I didn't prefer this hammer because the weight distribution and grip didn't feel right and the striking surface is smaller. Also the magnetic nail start feature is set back the farthest of any of my hammers so that can only be used for starting longer nails. Another consideration with narrow angular steel shank hammers, though I never experienced this firsthand - someone cautioned me that if overstriking and hitting one's thumb with the shank it can do more damage than a wooden handle.Post 3 of 7
Next I found the 'California framer' pattern hammer at Harbor Freight and immediately preferred that pattern. It has a large striking surface, the rounded portion for closing miters, a close magnetic nail start feature, a heavy head, and a handle shape a little closer to the first hammer I used a lot. I liked this hammer so much that I bought multiples of it and experimented welding steel shanks on to them trying to create a hammer that would never require handle replacement. There's a solid steel shank version and a steel tube version. The wooden handled original is simply better for weight and feel though. The solid shank version might be useful for blacksmithing with the claw modified. They changed the design after I started buying these hammers and I was annoyed by that because the older design was better - the newer design, seen on the welded steel tube version, it made with the nail start feature further back from the strike surface. I still had the other pattern on a wooden handle though and that has been my second most-used framing hammer. The magnet looked to have been pressed or glued into a brass insert and it fell out. Fell out of the welded ones too but that was from the heat. Sometimes I glued a magnet back in, sometimes I drilled out the brass and stuck a bigger magnet in there just magnetically. It worked.Post 4 of 7
Then one day I walked into a store of the same company from which I got my first framing hammer and I picked up a Vaughan 23oz California framer. It met all my framing hammer criteria - large strike surface, the rounded concave area, close nail start feature, good wooden handle, and it even said USA on it. The HF framer was my favorite hammer until I picked up the Vaughan. With a slightly lighter head and a longer and straight handle it has a better weight/balance feel and better strikes and I even prefer the grip shape. The steel feels like it's better or tempered better than others. I used to look for shorter handles and heavier heads because I was conscious of my hammer handle from my belt hitting someone's floor if crouching during interior work. The lighter head and longer handle is just better. Better strikes, balance/feel, and the handle bumping a floor has never caused damage anyway.I was a little surprised to find the head didn't seem to be all the way finished. The indent for the nail start was sloped instead of square as if it hadn't been milled right and it wouldn't start a nail. The nail would fling off when trying. I ground it more square and with a chainsaw file I deepened the groove for the nail shank so that the nail head is more supported by the backing. Works great since. Also while the round concave portion was present it wasn't smooth so wouldn't be suitable for closing miters so I filed that. I suppose those were casting defects. I also ground the waffle surface to a smooth surface (Vaughan makes a smooth version yet there wasn't one at that store) and filed/sanded all outer edges for comfortable handling. I cut a piece of a metal can and fitted it wrapped with friction tape to protect the handle from overstrike damage. Lastly because I wanted a different color and because I'd sanded it anyway I slathered the head in a combination of black spray paint and linseed oil. Post 5 of 7
Despite refining the finish work this is by far my favorite hammer. It's probably my single favorite tool. It's a pattern that has been produced a while and allegedly made domestically and I overlooked it. I could have started with this pattern hammer and never needed to look for another. If I thought the pattern would change I'd buy ten more and hoard them. I don't ascribe to salesmanship unless it's with belief in a product and I would represent Vaughan hammers after finding this one. Sometimes I play with it like a fidget toy because the grip and balance and eased edges mean it's pleasant to handle.Post 6 of 7
Bonus post - it's not a framing hammer but it is DIY.This is a brass mallet I made.The head is a lump of brass I found in a box at the curb along with dead roaches, a roll of solder and other scrap.The shank is a piece of gate hardware I found in the desert.The grip is of pallet wood I found in the road.I sometimes wonder if I should check that lump of brass with a geiger counter.Post 7 of 7
>>2990283What a lovely simple hammer
>>2990285Hammer is a good tool. Much smash.
>>2990280>leather wrapCorrecting myself - not wrapped.
>>2990277What are their names, anon?I know you've named themDon't be shy, you're among friends here
What would you recommend for a home gamer all-around hammer. I have a regular claw hammer, and a rubber/plastic faced hammer for slightly more delicate work. I've found myself over the years wanting a decent (heavy) maul and maybe a deadblow. I don't do framing or production jobs, but sometimes you need a good hammer.
>>2990385>What would you recommend for a home gamer all-around hammer. I have a regular claw hammerYou just answered your own question dipshit. But if you still want to consoooom then get yourself a 14oz Stiletto
>>2990406>You just answered your own question dipshit.I hope a hammer falls on your head from a great distance.
>>2990381>I know you've named themNo you don't because I haven't. I typically address cats as 'kitty.' These are hammers.>>2990385>What would you recommend for a home gamer all-around hammer.If after my review you didn't infer that I would recommend a 23oz California framer pattern on a 17" wooden handle then I'm unsure what more review to offer. That is my preference for an all-around type hammer. Most of the construction work I do is finish carpentry, general construction, remodel, demo type stuff. I don't do that much framing and when I do framing I use a framing nailer, or building a deck with hangers so still different fasteners. It's a somewhat rare occasion that I actually drive framing nails with my hammer so even though it's called a framing hammer I don't really view it as a framing hammer. It's my general purpose hammer. That's why I use smooth faces.If more delicacy is required I just put a block between and swing my same hammer. There's usually a piece of scrap laying around. Waste of footsteps going to get another hammer. In a shop setting that would be different.>>2990406>>2990407That's mean. Nice is nicer.>14ozI've heard in theory the lighter framing hammers swung faster are supposed to hit harder and be easier on the elbow and probably that's valuable to someone driving framing nails with a hammer except that's not most of what I use a hammer for. Admittedly I haven't tried one of those lighter hammers yet. I just imagine there are some things that a heavier hammer is best for, like tapping a PT 2x10 or a sheet of plywood into place, or swinging the thing sideways between joists because there isn't even enough clearance for a proper strike. That's the kind of stuff I do more often than driving framing nails by hand and I just imagine a heavier hammer still being best for that stuff.
>>2990448>I just imagine there are some things that a heavier hammer is best for, like tapping a PT 2x10 or a sheet of plywood into place, or swinging the thing sideways between joists because there isn't even enough clearance for a proper strike. That's the kind of stuff I do more often than driving framing nails by hand and I just imagine a heavier hammer still being best for that stuff.Maybe you should try one out. The first day I tried a nice whippy hickory stiletto it was like holding magic in my hand. You can crack the fuck out of anything , not just nails, and the whole geometry of the tool is just really nice, at least for my arm
>>2990448>the lighter framing hammers swung faster are supposed to hit harder and be easier on the elbowSounds like bs unless you're hitting baby nails I used to take out a hatchet to nail rafters with 180mm nails cause that was the heaviest hammer I had
>>2990527I would test one. I think every time I've seen them in stores they've been behind locked cases or such so I couldn't even fondle them unless performing the intermediate step of summoning a biped to stand there and say stuff while I do so. I stopped buying underwear at a major department store for the same reason when they started putting those items in cases. I haven't bought underwear in years. My underwear are tattered. It hasn't yet been a critical issue however it is approaching the point that a solution is required. I suppose I'll order those online. I try to shop local/independent and it's not always possible. Oh well. The hammer I would want to feel out in person before ordering, and not during salesman scrutiny.>>2990542It pretty much says so in the advertised features. Are you implying that marketing could be less than legitimate?
>>2990385The perfect all round hammer is a 20 Oz smooth face estwing.I'm surprised you've never tried estwings with your curious obsession with steel handles handles op. Steel is fine for trim or necessary for formwork, but will just kill your elbow framing, even with nail guns. I currently use a 20 oz smooth face estwing, a 21 oz waffle faced fiberglass Vaughan, and a 28 oz waffle faced estwing. The 23oz Vaughan is an excellent choice though, I've swung several for many years.
Cool hammers anon, now show me what youve built with them
>>2990645>I'm surprisedI don't think that you are.>your curious obsession with steel handlesI also then admitted that traditional wooden handles are better. I wanted a hammer that didn't require maintenance for integrity. The wooden handles have been reliable. I do oil them occasionally so the grain stays swelled.>20 Oz smooth face estwingI've looked at them.No magnetic nail start feature, and that is a feature that I use. It's useful say if up on a ladder installing fascia and the next fastener point is just out of reach - one can reach the length of the handle further. Fewer ladder moves, faster install time.Also the steel shank is maybe the most bladelike in the unfortunate event of an overstrike on a thumb.The version that does have the magnetic nail start doesn't have the rounded concave area.They are good-looking solid hammers though.I have an Estwing camp axe that I shortened and slightly changed the angle of the handle. Inside the tube joint I welded a piece of an old ratchet handle. Should have used a lighter piece of steel. Added a little too much weight to the mid-section. Better balance and swing than the original though, I think.
>>2990656Some windows and trim. I like doing trim.
i like the picard best
>>2990282I filed it more. Looking at the image activated my autism because more nail head surface area could be supported.
>Rolling over a mitered jointCould you illustrate? I don't understand at all. Thanks anon
>>2991319Poor quality proof of concept video.If it looks like a hack that's 'cause it sorta is yet it can sometimes make a joint look better. For example when miter wrapping a porch column if there's a little variation in that long mitered rip this can even it out. Or lightly on stain grade baseboard if the corners have been mudded out of square.Also I put 'rolling' in quotes because it's not really rolling like a wheel yet that's what I've heard this called. Smoothing? Something.
>>2990645Estwing used to be standard but always found to be overrated except the smaller leather handled on with curved claw used for trim. The Vaughan CF with curved wood handle has lasted me close to 20 years, daily use. Getting weaker at the handle to head connection so its retired and hangs on the wall.
>>2990553>I haven't bought underwear in years. My underwear are tattered.Pro tip: get it at Costco
>>2990448im glad to read you didnt name your hammers
>>2991719cut your miters at 45.5°t. finish carpenter who recommends 16oz leather handle estwing
>>2993018>cut your miters at 45.5°1) No.1.5) Not regularly, anyway. In special cases. The stop on the saw is at 45 and that makes for a tactile repeatable movement often without even bothering to tighten the angle lock.2) The saw guy is sometimes different from the install guy.>16 oz curved claw hammerFor interior finish work that might make sense. I have found the curved claw to be more useful than the straight(ish) claw approximately never. The curve is for pulling nails if that's the only tool in one's hand however every carpenter with a tool belt ought to also have a pry bar. The straight(ish) claw is useful for other tasks like if on a ladder removing fascia, swing the claw into the board in line with the fasteners in the grain, twist, split the board in half, and suddenly it's much easier to pry against the rafter tails or sub-fascia. Or stand a scrap 2x chunk up and split a piece of it off with the claw when a quick shim is needed and you don't feel like going for a saw. I still prefer the larger strike face even for finish nails. When my hammer head is too big I get the drift punch from my belt.Your tool belt looks heavy for interior work. I like a belt with just the Occidental "5-in-1 tool holder" and "large utility bag." The tool holder is enough for hammer, trim bars, drift punch, chisel, cat's paw type nail puller, and I keep a neodymium magnet on one of the rivets for finding screws in a wall and retrieving dropped screws with my tape measure. The utility bag is good for fasteners, and I sewed a separate insert for driver bits and countersinks. I put a larger pry bar through the loop of the utility bag. On my pants I clip my tape measure, utility knife, pencil, impact driver, speed square in back pocket, and Leatherman multi-tool on the pants belt. That way I can take my tool belt off, do measurements, go over to a saw station and still do all that stuff. For interior work I frequently don't wear the belt if I'm working steadily in one area.
>>2993038off the top of my head i carry>16oz estwing>dead blow mallet>2x super sharp chisels, 3/4 and 1">1x sharpened with a belt sander bullshit chisel for doing stupid stuff 3/4">nail pullers>needle nose pliers>glue bottle>damp rag>flexible putty knife>rigid putty knife (sharpened a bit)>6" and 12" combination squares>torpedo level>carpenters divider>flat head screwdriver>nail setand then there are some racks of fasteners and cell phone and shims and shit floating around depending on what i am doing. i am also usually a one man show because all my help got old and quit working.
>>2993040>1x sharpened with a belt sander bullshit chisel for doing stupid stuffA must-have tool.>needle nose pliersIf you carried a multi-tool you'd carry those without those in your pouch.>6" and 12" combination squaresFor trim reveals?
>>2993042>If you carried a multi-tool you'd carry those without those in your pouch.i hate multitools with a fiery passion. i have three leatherman waves. one in my range bag. one somewhere in a junk drawer. and one i have not seen in months probably floating around in the door of my truck. every time i use a multitool i am enraged that i am not at work using the real tool that i can just grab and use without having to fiddle fuck with and then deal with dogshit ergonomics. rant over.>6" and 12" combination squares>For trim reveals?sometimes. mostly for laying out cutouts in tongue and groove and paneling in preparation for jigsaw work. also determining square. i bought the starett 12" and i love that thing. also if i am doing mitered box beams i use them to mark so all the pieces are marked exactly the same. they are incredibly versatile tools.
>>2993045>using the real tool that i can just grab and use without having to fiddle fuck with and then deal with dogshit ergonomicsOne can also replace outlet covers, open paint cans, do pliers stuff walking about in the finish stages without needing separate tools in a pouch. They are clunky from the factory. I put polishing compound on the fulcrum and worked it back and forth until I could open it one-handed. They'd probably cost twice as much if the factory finished the fit and finish.>mitered box beams i use them to mark so all the pieces are marked exactly the sameMaybe I'm just not understanding how the combination squares would be better for that stuff than a speed square. One of the common speed square functions is that it has increments for marking. Also a larger reference for determining square. This is the make I deploy. I like that it has the quarter inch marking increments (many are half inch or not even present). Been thinking about drilling staggered holes at 1/2, 5/8, 3/4, 6, 6 1/2 for marking those also. Only thing I don't like about it is the indent at the pivot point since one of the most common uses is just marking square and that transfers a divot to the square mark, so I drilled a hole in the divot, fixed a little post in there, filled it with epoxy and sanded it flat. Miluakee makes one with lots of increments too except they made the thing bulkier/heavier and that's unnecessary. Been thinking about buying one and cutting the square reference to traditional size. I have combination squares and I almost never use them. On job sites I most often see them used basically as depth gauges if trim is to be set at say a 3/16 reveal.
>>2993048it's a different animal when you are working to the 64th sometimes. different jobs require different tools and different techniques.
>>2993050>different different different differentThat's why I asked what you do with them.Wouldn't a mitered beam just be done to the 64th on a table saw anyway?Yes your recessed crown looks fancy.
>>2993051track saw, and i did that arch too :P
Here are some mitered beams.
And a fun crown detail where it was going to hit the casing.
>>2993057So you use the combination square for transferring a radius and setting your track saw?
>>2993071no, you do a radius using braided fishing line and math and then you make a template and use a router. i use the track saw for box beams and that's how i cut the 45.5° miters. doing nice miters on a tablesaw, especially with plywood and long rips, is really difficult in the field on a portable tablesaw.
i made the switch from wood handle to fiberglass, i feel less reverb in my arm.
>>2993112I made a switch from wood handles to steel so I can feel more reverb in my arm... These two are my main metal beaters that stay by the anvil outside for straightening stuff out or bending it purposefully. I love these lil niggas like you wouldn't believe. Found the ball-pein on the side of the road with a shitty wooden handle. The other one had a fiberglass handle until it rattled loose and got a steel handle put on it.
>>2993085>noI didn't think so. So I still don't think you've described what you do with the combination squares. Jigsaw work? Mitered beams? What?
>>2993117All kinds of stuff. Think of how versatile your speesquare is, then add extreme adjustability and precision.
>>2993136Here, making a transom that integrates with an installed cabinet.
>>299313813/64ths.
>>2993139Lining up the two sides since it's asymmetrical.
>>2993141Same thing for the heights, asymmetrical.
>>2993138>depth gauge for revealI thought so.>>2993141>a squareI think speed squares are better for 90% of carpentry stuff. I sometimes put a level up to mine. Laser levels are pretty good for aligning stuff.
>>2993063Can you tell us how you cut that or a good youtube tutorial? I assume a coping or scroll saw and a bit of a silly cutting?
this is best hammer these dayshttps://www.homedepot.com/pep/Stiletto-14-oz-Titanium-Milled-Face-Hammer-with-18-in-Curved-Hickory-Handle-TI14MC/203527254?g_store=&source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&fp=ggl&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D25H-025_001_HAND_TOOLS-NA-Multi-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-Hand_Tools_PLATEST&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D25H-025_001_HAND_TOOLS-NA-Multi-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-Hand_Tools_PLATEST-21934288064-173688791471-2446597072548&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21934288064&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpsyw0-XdlAMVw25_AB3eRBCuEAQYAyABEgKJrPD_BwEthis used to be best back in the day, but quite soft cast https://hammersource.com/dalluge-2110-21-oz-framing-hammer-serrated-face-magnetic-nail-holder-17-straight-hickory-handle/?sku=2110&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cse&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20805902520&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9pvo8-XdlAMVtzdECB3SiSEREAQYAyABEgIRp_D_BwE
>>2993162haha, when i did that i had my cabinet maker and some of the guys i subbed part of the job out to ask me how to do it. i showed them and they still couldn't do it, i saw the boards they tried it on. ancient chinese secret.
>>2993230titanium hammers are for people who don't use their hammers professionally.
>>2990277Ok?
>>2993063>>2993162>Can you tell us how you cut that or a good youtube tutorial?I would suppose those cuts were started on a miter saw and finished with a hand saw. 52 and 38 are the magic numbers there. A double-bevel miter saw would help yet it is possible to do on a single-bevel.>>2993230>this used to be best back in the day, but quite soft cast>https://hammersource.com/dalluge-2110-21-oz-framing-hammer-serrated-face-magnetic-nail-holder-17-straight-hickory-handleLooks like a good pattern.>this is best hammer these days>https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Stiletto-14-oz-Titanium-Milled-Face-Hammer-with-18-in-Curved-Hickory-Handle-TI14MC/203527254I would consider one if I could do so at my own pace finding one displayed in the open.>>2993286>my (person who exists at a time in which slavery is socially reprehensible)Talker-type talk.>>2993287>titanium hammers are for people who don't use their hammers professionally.First time I saw one of those on a job site was with a recently hired older guy. We were installing windows made for vinyl siding that had the J-channel molded as part of the vinyl windows. When nailing the flange, the guy swung his hammer and smashed off a chunk of the integrated J-channel, then went to his truck and got tubes of epoxy.When driving nails somewhere delicate like that I often put a putty knife up to the other surface so if I miss the hammer skips off the putty knife instead of smashing the delicate thing.
>>2993374have an outside miter going from a rake to flat ceiling, cute return though
>>2993374>my (person who exists at a time in which slavery is socially reprehensible)>Talker-type talk.sorry that i have subcontractors that i work with, do you get offended when someone calls it the master bedroom rather than the primary? and the hint i will give you about making those cuts is that making a jig completely changes the dynamic of cutting crown. and double bevel is not optional.
>>2993596>sorry that i have subcontractors that i work withI don't think that you are.>do you get offended when someone calls it the master bedroomOne should be the master of one's home. That's not a person with an employment or contractual working relationship.>double bevel is not optionalSpace it away from the fence with a 1x4 and turn it backwards.
