OK, smooth sailing now. Glad I started to work on it when I did.

I just switched from a 0.4 to a 0.2 nozzle because the part spec called for it and every print is just a blob stuck to the nozzle, even if the first layer sort of adheres, it gets picked up by the blob and the print bed is clean afterwards.
I'm printing petg through a volcano nozzle.

Any suggestions?
0.4 nozzle was printing fine.

>>2991030
thank u anon

>>2991093
Np

Is the X2D really the 'good enough' for most, or will stepping up to the H2D really unlock 2x value?

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>>2991097
diminishing returns, but the 350*340 bed is the main driving factor.
t. annon that's had an h2d innacart cart all week.
Having never dealt with anything bambu I never knew how cloud dependent they are unless in development mode, and then there's a few features that appear to be lost but I haven't bothered looking into it too much.

>>2991086
What’s your layer height? If it’s too high it won’t stick well, if it’s small then you really have to dial Z-offset in well.

What build surface, and when did you last wash it with soap and water?

>>2991126
>What’s your layer height? If it’s too high it won’t stick well, if it’s small then you really have to dial Z-offset in well.
>What build surface, and when did you last wash it with soap and water?

Layer height is 0.2mm, I suppose Z-offset will be more influential than at 0.4mm, I never really messed with that before because it hasn't seemed to be necessary.
Is there a guide on how to do it?
It's a Kobra Max 1 with auto-levelling but there is a Z-offset parameter that is manual and I've left it alone until now.

The build surface is glass with a coating, I cleaned it with IPA after the first failure but it didn't make any difference, I haven't done with soap and water in a while but I guess I should try that too.

>>2991131
>Layer height is 0.2mm
Don’t do 1:1, you get no layer-squish. I’d go for no more than 0.15mm layer height with a 0.2mm nozzle, ideally closer to 0.1mm.

>>2991131
the equivalent would be printing 0.4mm layer heights with a 0.4 mm nozzle. ideally no more than 3/4's of the nozzle is you max layer height.

>>2991067
>For enthusiasts: SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicer
is SuperSlicer still worth getting into? I see that it's still getting updated but at a slower rate than others, does it still offer more functionality than OrcaSlicer?
I've been reading Elli's Print Tuning Guide
https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/
and it seems like it's that guy's preferred slicer, but the guide must be a bit old at this point

>>2991097
Unless you need a larger build plate or you want to do a laser/plotter upgrade the X2D is a pretty good value and mostly sufficient. Should be able to handle ABS and the rare times you want to do something like petg or pla support material. I have yet to use multi material support just because I try to design my parts around not needing supports. Just extra cost and print time.

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Any idea why my print layers look a bit off? Would it be just down to temps?

>>2991159
underextrusion
you DID calibrate your extrusion multiplier right?
check your extruder pressure too.

>>2991162
Nope haven't calibrated that. Was never assed to go through the whole process because people say you have to do it each time depending on the filament and even the colour so I never bothered as of yet because it takes like 10 mins minimum to do its calibration steps before it even starts printing anything and I'm swapping out filaments all the time.
Guess I just have to go through the whole process after all and curse myself whenever I change filaments?
Is extruder pressure the same as pressure advance?

>>2991165
>i skipped a bunch of steps and my tool isn't working, what happened?
seriously though, you calibrate for each NEW roll once, if you have a slicer worth a damn it lets you save that setting per filament, so if you change you just set it back to that profile.
do the same for temperature, since you could just be running cold.
extruder pressure is the pressure the extruder is applying to the filament, look for the little arm putting pressure against the extrusion gear, it should JUST leave gear teeth impressions on the plastic, if it doesn't then its probably not pushing your filament hard enough.

>>2991168
Well it had just werked before when I was printing with black and now with orange it was showing up this type of stuff
Ill spend today calibrating it then and see how it goes afterwards. I'll take a look at the knob and see if if that needs adjusting too

Anons do you exhaust your printers outside? I'm just finishing up exhausting my X2D out a window, using smart plugs to trigger an inline blower while the printer is running. I have the printer in an attached garage so it's mostly unnecessary but it feels good knowing that the UFPs are outside now.

>>2991173
Nah I have the printer in my bedroom, no exhaust needed, too overkill desu

>>2991140
you can use more than one. before bambu locked it down (who'd have guessed?) I switched regularly back and forth between bambu and orca. idk what super offers, but if you need that feature you can just use super for that one print.

>>2991132
>Don’t do 1:1, you get no layer-squish. I’d go for no more than 0.15mm layer height with a 0.2mm nozzle, ideally closer to 0.1mm
>>2991135
>the equivalent would be printing 0.4mm layer heights with a 0.4 mm nozzle. ideally no more than 3/4's of the nozzle is you max layer height.
That makes sense, thought the part for the 0.4noz did specify a layer height of 0.4mm too and it turned out fine, it has no fine detail though.

I was actually asking about advice/guides on tuning Z-offset though, is there a process?

I need help, I recently got back into 3d printing with an Kobra X and I have an Anet A8 that has spent years on the basement powered off. I was looking for DIY 3d printers or projects to dismantle the Anet and reuse some of the useful parts. Someone has done a similar thing or anyone has some good ideas?

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>>2991212
>Anet A8 that has spent years on the basement powered off.

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What is causing this? my printer (sovol sv06) started doing this suddenly. The layers are uneven in the Y axis and its completely crooked, other prints also turn out slanted. The only thing i noticed is the X axis belt is a little loose, but it prints fine in that axis, what else should i check?

How do you tighten the z axis on a neptune max 3? I looked for it but couldn't find the model. 3d printers are evolving so fast, a 2-3 year old printer is ancient...

>>2991216
Yeah I know, I didn't get that firebender 3d printer the time to go up in flames, i was thinking of scraping and take anything usefull (steppers, nuts, bolts, threaded and lineal rods).

>>2991067
Want to buy a resin printer
Should I snag a Anycubic P1 or wait for the P1 Max to release (the release has been delayed since March)

>>2991165
Extrusion ratio is something I do once for a printer and assume it’s right for all filaments.

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Don't know if this is the best place to ask, but I want to 3D print a Clone Hero controller. I can do all the electronics/microcontroller stuff, but does anyone know which design is best? There have been a lot of them over the years.

>>2991276
What type of music do you usually play on clone hero, and which guitar looks the most comfortable?

>>2991205
>I was actually asking about advice/guides on tuning Z-offset though, is there a process?
The actual mechanism depends on the printer. I'm surprised Orca doesn't have any test-gcode generators for it either. All I can suggest is printing a big flat single layer, or maybe a bunch of small single layer squares, and baby-stepping Z manually during the print until it looks good, Assuming you're able to do that. If not, I guess just print off a small single-layer square a bunch of times and adjust z-offset between attempts. Concentric bottom layer infill helps with sticking I find, less short little lines with low surface area.

>>2991212
The old 8-bit boards are noisy, but it might be compatible with GRBL. Lots of cool GRBL projects out there, I recomend a plotter to escape the inkjet printer cabal. Though an EDM/ECM machine or laser engraver are cool ideas too. If you don't mind making a more rigid machine, a CNC router can be handy.

>>2991219
Can you move the Y axis by pulling/pushing on it while steppers are locked? If it isn't the axis's mechanics, then it might be the electrical connections, or possibly even the stepper driver itself.

>>2991286
>old 8-bit boards
>noisy
Hell hath no fury like a Centauri Carbon.

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>>2991280
Just standard rock or anything that comes up really. I play on my keyboard upside down so any upgrade is nice.
I'm kind of torn between two models, the one I posted previously and this one. This one has a small neck but that is easily fixed in FreeCAD. I don't really know which one to go with.
https://www.printables.com/model/227781-poly-clone-hero-controller
https://www.printables.com/model/479046-minicaster-mini-clone-heromidi-controller

I guess what you're trying to say is that it really doesn't matter, and I guess it doesn't. I think I just wanted to run it by some pros before committing to one design.

>>2991286
>All I can suggest is printing a big flat single layer, or maybe a bunch of small single layer squares, and baby-stepping Z manually during the print until it looks good
ok, thanks anon.
I'll give it a go.

>>2991293
I would go with the poly

>>2991294
or, you could just babystep you zheight while printing a few skirt loops.

>>2991286
Thanks, i solved the problem. It was just a loose timing pulley

>>2991293
I would go with the mini

>another toolchanger
>another toolchanger review
>"you can do things like pla with petg supports!"
why does everyone get this wrong
pla is a SHIT plastic
you're supposed to print petg with pla supports

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>>2991344
>thinking there's any significant difference between the two in regard to strength and temp.
at least pla prints faster.

>>2991334
>or, you could just babystep you zheight while printing a few skirt loops.
I found some test squares, so I think the procedure is to set them to print sequentially and then like you said, manually pause between squares and step it down.
The problem is that when it fails, it forms a blob under the nozzle, so I need some clearance to get it off. I might hack the gcode to give me that though, shouldn't be too hard.

>>2991353
pla is brittle shit regardless, petg can be too soft but you can compensate with more structure because it's dirt cheap
petg is uv-resistant and no-sells just about any household chemicals you toss at it (except brake fluid, that shit seems to be its aqua regia)
petg has perfect layer adhesion unlike pla that will shear clean across layers
petg does not creep unlike pla that will run away from you if you leave it under load
petg has lower friction (and doesn't get attacked by half the lubricants like pla does)
pla's sole claim to fame is how easy it is to get a good-looking print on a really shit printer, but petg is only marginally harder to print while actually being an engineering-viable filament
i'll never trust a pla part anywhere, but a fat overbuilt petg part inspires confidence

>>2991377
Did PETG fucking blow you under your desk?

>>2991162
>you DID calibrate your extrusion multiplier right?
i thought the a1 did everything by itself. Do i need to calibrate shit manually?

>>2991344
PETG is weaker in absolute strength, impact strength, layer adhesion, and stiffness. The only reason to use PETG over PLA is heat or UV or chemical resistance, or if you’re making something compliant. Even then, there are PLA blends with significantly better heat resistance than PETG since they anneal as they’re printed. UV and chemical resistance is better obtained with a surface coating where possible. Creep resistance is something I’m not too sure on either way, seems pretty blend dependant.

As for cost, PETG is marginally cheaper but material cost should never be a significant factor unless you’re printing out of PPS-CF or whatever.

Also PLA > PLA Plus, and PCTG is better at everything PETG is worth considering for, shame it’s significantly more expensive.

>>2991377
Actual disinformation, check the MyTechFun data.

>>2991408
>Creep resistance is something I’m not too sure on either way, seems pretty blend dependant.
OH shut the fuck up you fag.
Everyone knows PLA creeps like crazy. PETG does not creep, it either snaps or it doesn't

>>2991228
Someone more knowledgeable should field this question.

>>2991410
Yeah it creeps, but it holds its strength decently even as it creeps. I don’t use it for situations where creep resistance is important, so I guess that is a big draw of PETG. Still, I think there are specialist blends of PLA that are better against creep. Fibres help, and so does annealing apparently.

petg should've never been a thing in the first place
we should've printed raw pet all along, shame 270 is above teflon's 260 degree degradation temp so cheapo printers couldn't print it and full metal has been percieved as too exotic for the better part of a decade
big corn has lobbied against us making filament straight out of the most recycled waste product on the planet and now tries to make people buy more of more expensive product by adding more pluses to their pla

>>2991192
yeah my pc is already bloated with software so I might as well use them all, as long as I can copy my filament settings between them easily at least
>>2991181
according to OSHA a worker in an injection moulding factory shouldn't be exposed to more than 100ppm of styrene throughout his 8 hour shift, the amount of styrene released in the air by a 3d printer printing ABS was measured to be in the low ppb so the health risks related to that are greatly exaggerated. Having clean air rather than stinky melted plastic gases in your room is still preferable of course, but I've seen people on the internet being way too neurotic about this stuff

>>2991381
depends, are you using bambulabs (tm) filiment in your bambu labs(tm) ams printing bambulabs (tm) pre sliced files?

if not, then you will need to calibrate at least some part of your print.

$5000 budget for printer and wash station, what are you ordering and why that? I'm interested in printing waifu ball joint dolls and want them to look perfect with minimal processing. I don't mind dremelling a bit but I'd rather not do it too much

>>2991446
Formlabs is the highest end brand making resin printers. Expensive stuff though, the package on their website with Form 4 + wash + curing station even exceeds your budget by $700. Should be very reliable but from what I understand they have a closed ecosystem that incentivizes you to only use their products, may be fine if you want to sell your dolls and make a living out of it but that's your call. Given your budget I assume you want the best of the best, most brands make significantly cheaper stuff with the Phrozen Sonic Mighty Revo 16K being on the upper end of quality and selling for about $1k, but if you're just a hobbyist I'd still get that over the Formlabs stuff that's aimed at professional businesses and priced as such.
If it was a typo and you meant to write $500 then Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra + Mercury Plus V3.0

>>2991446
a $200 photon mono 4 and a wash cure station to match.

then once you can process resin properly go for the big one so you can make your sexdolls lifesize.

dont drop 5k on MAYBE liking resin printing.

>>2991447
hmm idk if I'd even be able to sell my dolls. I love in boomer town and I bet the moment I try to sell one for $500 (after printing, curing, sanding, priming painting and doing a face up) I'll get boomers being like wow they're expensive and not buying one. my personal sculpting isn't good enough yet but my wife could probably do z brush pretty well but she's burned out on art.

I'll have a look at formlabs, thank you.
>>2991448
eh I've got the money to try it out as well as the workshop space for 3d printing. the way I see it is that once I get to about 12-14 dolls printed they'll already be worth their 3d printer costs (a bjd is typically 500$).

I'm the sort that's set for life financially and kind of bored as fuck most of the time. not mega rich but owns house and has enough passive income to live

>>2991458
>workshop space for 3d printing
but do you have workshop space to set up a permanent big smelly mess?
i thought i did, but holy shit does resin fume up a garage bad.
and i sincerely hope you aren't trying to just set it up in a spare room inside your house.

>>2991458
>I love in boomer town and I bet the moment I try to sell one for $500
Who and where you love is your business but your market is obviously online.
Anyone buying a waifu doll is terminally online anyway and the entire developed world is your potential market for something as niche as this.

>>2991459
nah nah dedicated workshop. has a full roller door too and a built in sink and toilet and bench. pretty decent spot ngl. hmm I didn't consider the smell actually. maybe I will just buy a few dolls instead. I was prepared for a respirator and dedicated HEPA filter next to the 3d printer but I don't want my space getting all funked up

>>2991461
It's less the smell being bad, and more the smell being an indicator of bad chemicals getting all over the place. It does accumulate on surfaces as it evaporates and redeposits. Though with the ecosystem-like resin printers like HeyGears and Formlabs you take the buildplate off the printer and slot it directly into the wash+cure station, so it spends minimal time in contact with the air. Water-washable resins are a bit nicer in general. Though I'm paranoid enough to want to do it all in a fume-hood, or at least have continuous ventilation ducts sucking from the vicinity of any uncured unsealed resin.

>>2991462
yeah this is a good point that I didn't consider. back to dollfie we go. maybe I'll buy a filament printer for fun and for printing tool battery holders and stuff.

>>2991463
Depending on the scale, you can get pretty decent resolution with FDM. That might mean going for a 0.2mm nozzle.

>>2991464
I don't think it would be good enough for a bjd, but that's ok. I had a ender 3 in the past and that thing sucked. so I don't wish to go for cheap printers again.

>>2991067
>just buy whatever Bambu fits your budget
I was wondering if bambu were any good but I guess that answers that.
Is being able to print in multiple colours a meme though? £110 extra for a 4 colour spool thingie seems like a lot.

>>2991466
do you plan to do multi color prints?

I don't have a multi color printer but it feels meme-ish. Just do the painting part yourself, it is fun

>>2991461
anon, i run the resin printer in a spare room, and an exhaust system pulling ALL the air from its quarantine tent outside through a filter, its not bad, but theres no way in hell i would put a resin printer in ANY room i intended on being in when not actively using the resin printer, everything inside the tent is sticky, and oily, and smells like poison, and makes my skin itch the next day if i brush against it without cleaning it off, and one time i forgot to close the window, and got burned by the resin on my glove literally cooking my hand as it cured (i was carefully fingering my FEP for holes).
resin printing is a lot like photograph developing, it needs its own environment, and its just easier to get someone else to do it, unless you enjoy the process.

just buy a NICE corexy printer, jam a 0.2mm nozzle on it and print your ball join child full size in ABS and vapor smooth or sand it.
push button get sexdoll is not 3d printing, its ordering from aliexpress.

>>2991471
>just easier to get someone else to do it, unless you enjoy the process
I might actually see if I can commission prints from someone in my area, good idea
she's not a sex toy at all, I just wanna dress her up. and sit her on my grails shelf. she must be perfect

>>2991466
>Is being able to print in multiple colours a meme though?
No, being able to do inlays in a different colour is cool but the big usecase for them is using different material for supports, including soluble material.
I don't have multi-filament but I wish I did.

>>2991466
>Is being able to print in multiple colours a meme
pretty much, especially with filament-swapping that wastes more plastic than what it uses on the model, at least tool changer/dual nozzle printers are less wasteful. But multi-material printing is a potentially cool capability, and even just not having to swap filaments manually for different prints can be handy (I've made a couple of Hueforge pics for my family recently and not having to be there to swap colors every couple of hours would have been awfully convenient). £110 is honestly not bad at all for this but you can easily do without, you can always get it later if you change your mind

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>>2991381
hang on. please tell me when you sliced your part you sliced it with the appropriate nozzle, right? It's the yellow highlighted section in pic rel.

>>2991442
Something funny I noticed about Bambu labs printers, my A1 prints better when I tell it the generic roll of PLA+ is bambu brand filament

Others could try and confirm, maybe it's just placebo, but I swear it prints cleaner and the supports are better

>>2991466
I only rarely do multicolor prints, and when I do it's just 1 or 2 color changes for an accent color on some part, so it wastes very little filament. BUT, the convenience of having 4 colors loaded and ready to print is pretty great, even if I don't do multicolor stuff.

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why does my PA6-CF print look like shit? does it need drying? I already dried it once a few days ago, not sure how often I need to do that...

>>2991479
idk I printed a bunch of Sunlu PLA+ with its dedicated preset and the results were great, but with cheapo unkown filaments I just use the Bambu presets. The only time I had trouble was with some no-name silk PLA that my brother gave me, with presets it sucked and even after some tweaking I never got it to print quite right (tbf I knew very little about filament calibration at the time)

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>>2991466
as I always say multi color is great but the real reason is for support material. there is just nothing like real embedded color even something as simple as a name tag is just so much nicer but being able to do near 0mm support gaps is even better.

>>2991487
>Flip7 tokens
what are they for? My friend group likes playing lately, I don't love it but I might print these if they add some interesting rules to the game

>>2991488
it's just a marker to visually show that you're out. so everyone starts with them face down and as you hold or bust you flip it over.

>>2991490
ah I see, actually handy since nobody bothers to flip their cards when they bust, I might copy your idea

>>2991119
>I never knew how cloud dependent they are
Are they really? You can just put your file on the microSD and print, no? Zero connection to the internet required

>>2991482
>does it need drying?
yes.
>days ago.
lmao, that shit starts absorbing moisture the moment it leaves the dryer.
Print from the dryer.

>>2991494
iirc if you want to use them via internet you have to get through the cloud rather than having a direct connection like you could with klipper and basically any other brand, and it if wasn't for people getting mad at them they would probably have also removed or heavily gimped the "developer" mode that lets you use the printer offline

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>>2991410

Just finished a 3:30 hour long print. Is it a good idea to give it a few hours to rest? Or can I just start printing again?

was there just a sale on printer for kids or something? so many beginner questions

>>2991479
the settings for bambu pla are probably closer than the 'generic pla' for whatever roll you're using.
do you people not actually MAKE filament profiles for the materials you use often?
it takes like, 3 hours for something you'll be printing for years.

>>2991482
carbon fiber sucks up water INSTANTLY, either print it from a drybox or dry it immediately before use.

>>2991542
print right away, once a printer is at its working temp its more stable than while everything warming up, enclosed printers recommend heat soaking before calibrating for that exact reason.

>>2991545
>was there just a sale on printer for kids or something? so many beginner questions
OP here, I have an non-rigid, open and "friendly" op image. And I have a tendency to bring that energy with me wherever I go. Sorry. Expect more of it in my threads. On a meta related note at least we get more activity and discussion.

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>>2991545
>was there just a sale on printer for kids or something? so many beginner questions
Thanks for answering the questions anyway, it's helpful and I learned something. I've had a printer for six years and I basically just print simple parts in PLA and never dove deep into printing because, in my case, everything just werks. I've never made a filament profile and I've never even printed a benchy or other calibration tools -- yet I'm running my printer every couple days since 2020 with great success.

>>2991482
Wet. Let me guess, you dried it at like 60C? Nylons dry much better at 80C+. Nylons and fibre reinforced filaments absorb moisture quickly, CF-nylons get the effect doubly. Print from the drier, or at least a passive mostly sealed desiccant dry box.

>>2991553
>everything just works
Man I envy you Prusa guys. I’ve been troubleshooting and upgrading my ender 3 v2 for the last 3 years. It’s really pretty good now though. Despite the price, I’m probably going to get a Core One for my next printer.

https://youtu.be/jU7nQ7Nd51A
Non-planar atomiser printing got another update. Cool tech, though it probably takes a lot of processor power to “slice”.

People like to bitch about Bambu but are silent about the bills that would make Bambu-esque vendor lock-in mandated by law

>>2991564
Open sores freaks are always just butthurt poors. See the Gimp vs Photoshop rivalry that has gone on for 20 years.

Remember, year of the Linux desktop any minute now lmao

>>2991565
Not what I was saying

>>2991565
>Open sores freaks are always just butthurt poors
nah not all the time. I'd pay for a good photoshop alternative that was open source but there isn't one. hell affinity doesn't even run on Linux.

>>2991564
I think most people don't see this law ever being implemented with any sort of efficacy. It violates the 1st ammendment since human-written code is protected speech, and is very hard to project that law onto all the cheap chinese printer manufacturers.

>>2991565
building a Voron costs more than buying a mid-range Bambulab so I don't think it applies here
>>2991607
I'm a window babby and I'm pretty happy with Affinity, got both Photo and Designer but I don't think they are open source, it's just a one time purchase rather than a subscription service
>>2991616
yeah it's just a stupid proposal concocted by detached politicians, they might be able to push it forward in a few states to send a message but it'll never be applied in any serious manner

>>2991616
>>2991618
Maybe, but I'm pretty sure they said the same about "Age Verification"

>>2991620
here in Italy they tried setting up a system that makes it so you have to sign up with your ID to be able to access porn sites, it was a triumph of incompetency (tbf that's our trademark) and months after it was supposed to be applied in full effect there's still no sign of it anywhere.
How do they plan stopping people from printing gun parts, with AI checking the geometries? Either it would have thousands of false positives (and people would start intentionally overloading the system with them as a fuck you) or it would be easily fooled just by changing a few things. And how can you even force every slicer developer to make it so their software only works online and sends all its data to the government via cloud? How can they stop me from keeping an old release of my slicer (or torrenting one) and using it via sd card with a diy printer? It's unenforceable.
But still the fact that politicians keep pushing to limit our freedom is definitely worrisome, they might shoot for a mile but only manage to take an inch and it would still be a loss for us

im a bit of an retard. Whats stopping someone from putting a UV inkjet on a 6DOF robot arm to paint on an XYZ plane? Probably a $100m+ consumer product. I would be willing to probably spend $2-3k for something like this. Is the accuracy of the robotic arms the problem?

>>2991625
would the UV light be able to cure the ink properly on a very uneven surface? Would the ink not droop on a vertical surface or an overhang before it's been cured?
To accurately print onto a 3D object you'd first have to scan it with a high resolution and unwrap its texture, then there's the matter or laying down the ink accurately on narrow sections and tight curves and crevices and edges, it might be possible but it sounds very complex and if such a machine came out there's no way that you could get it for only $3k imo

>>2991626
I think it would just shoot little CYMK dots like a comic of the resin and the surface tension would probably hold it there long enough for the UV to cure basically instantly. Maybe cut out overhangs entirely as well because they would be a bitch.

The software does seem pretty complicated though. I think the idea behind it though is not so much in covering every square inch of something like getting up to a corner or crevice but being able to print on weird geometries like a shoe or something.

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My bracket is sliding a bit freely on the rail, now I only tested with one bolt in because I didn't put in a second threaded insert but I don't think it'll change much.
Do I just lower the height of the bottom part a few mm just so it pulls up into the top part and has more grab on the rail per se?
Also would 10mm out from the edge of the top bracket be more than enough or could I realistically reduce it down a small bit more? Just so the acrylic isn't protruding too much out

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Fuck yeah ! I had an ender 3 for years, never used it, did some tests last week, printed some small parts and this night printed a dew shield for a telescope, 150mm diameter, 140mm high, 0.32mm layer height, 195°C, glass bed, some PLA that was on a shelf since 2018, it tirned out well.
Used some aliexpress M3 brass inserts with a cheap soldering iron at 250 °C

>>2991630
It looks pretty chunky, I wouldn't think that that thickness is strictly required, you can probably reduce the size slightly in all dimensions.
You should definitely add the second threaded insert and matching bolt, the asymmetry will alow one side to open slightly which probably causes asymmetric gripping of the rail, contributing to both loosening and creep.
You'll want uniform grip on the rail, so fasteners should be uniformly positioned too.

>has more grab on the rail per se
That is not what "per se" means.
https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/per_se
It usually means "in itself" or "as such" and rarely "explicitly so".

>>2991632
Yeah wasn't really sure about the thickness but just wanted to have a reason not to have it break or something on me and easy to locate/handle.
I did just put the bracket on the rail with another bolt and nut on the other side just to see if it has grab, it's not super loose but you can still slide it up and down with ease.
Should I still reduce the height of the bottom bracket or would it be enough to just put electrical tape or something around the rail? I'd assume it would be sliding either way?
Thanks I learnt English today

>>2991633
>Should I still reduce the height of the bottom bracket or would it be enough to just put electrical tape or something around the rail? I'd assume it would be sliding either way?
Got any old bicycle tube lying around?
Cut a shim from it and line the inside of the arc or the whole circumference of the rail, you need a rectangle the width of the circumference (or arc) and the length of the block, this makes the "hole" around the rail tighter which makes it grip better.
Rubber is also a more grippy texture than the PLA or whatever you're using so will hold it better.
This is the technique used by cyclists to secure brackets to handle bars that hold headlights, phones, bells, brakes etc.

If you really wanted to purely 3d print this, you could make a liner for the bracket out of TPU.
You'd make the bracket slightly larger (and smaller in volume probably) and have a second inner bracket from TPU that gripped the rail.
You could print the TPU as a pipe with a lengthways slit in it and just stretch it to fit it over the rail.

>>2991620
Age verification is pretty easy to defeat in many of its implementations, not that this should be any excuse for it.
The key difference is that most people use closed-source operating systems from companies with official operations in many countries. The Italian government wants apple to comply with a new law, they follow suit or get fined. In other words, it's far easier to project the responsibility for complying with the law in question to the manufacturers of the products in question. Even so it's almost certainly going to get challenged in the Supreme Court in the USA at least, but unlike the 3D printer laws, age verification is all over the world.

3D printers are largely chinese slop products used by somewhat techy enthusiasts, imported by different companies or shipped directly from china. If Italy want to fine Sovol, Sovol tells them to take a hike, and stops labelling their cardboard boxes. Like ham radio equipment, the responsibility would probably fall on the end user as the importer to ensure they're not violating any laws, but it's just not feasible for customs to enforce this. Evenhe local 3D printer sellers and dropshippers that might have law enforcement knocking on their doors, they can simply sell a 99% assembled 3D printer with no functioning software or no mainboard, call it "parts", and the end-user flashes marlin or klipper with no spyware using open source software operating out of Switzerland. Again, the responsibility falls onto the individual 3D printer owner, and that's impossible to enforce.

Where the risk really lies is in selective enforcement, just like minor drug posession. If they can't get you on anything else but see an ender 3 in your shed, they throw the book at you for that. Though I think there's a decent argument to be had that selective enforcement is a violation of civil rights.

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>>2991630
I'd change the shape to be like this, so it's not cantilevered like that. Or you could add the protruding area to the flat top piece instead of the U bracket. Definitely prone to creep with or without the addition, but I think the protrusion will reduce that tendency.

If it's sliding, I'd really want to add some rubber to it. I super-glued some pieces of an old bicycle inner-tube to a recent project, that worked absolutely brilliantly for gripping onto a glossy surface. I find printed TPU doesn't really grip well. At least not 95A. MyTechFun has reviewed a bunch of different flexible filaments and tested their friction coefficient if you did want to use one of those. Looks like the Azurefilm 85A he tested was the highest friction, but that's an older snapshot of the spreadsheet and doesn't have anything softer (e.g. foaming) in there. Well, TPU creeps real bad too, so for something screw-tightened you'd have to use a very thin piece for it to not loosen significantly. So tube rubber is really pretty ideal for this kind of use.

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what

>>2991643
>what
that

>>2991643
gnome sighting.

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>>2991498
That data appears to prove that PLA creeps more than PETG

>>2991646
>when heated past 45C.
That chart also doesn't take into account initial deformation.
Either way, ASA and ABS sitting pretty chill over there.

>>2991630
shorter U that is less than the bar diameter and also add a thin bit of rubber on top like old inner tube

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>>2991631

>>2991650
The day 6 bar isn't heat brotato

SFC and Louis are teaming up to bully the billion dollar company.

>>2991654
Those are cumulative results, each bar measures deformation from the initial size. Creep is the difference between days and typically goes down towards zero as time goes on.

If you want the actual creep results, you should subtract each day from one another in the data table seen here: >>2991498.

From that it looks like with these blends the creepage is pretty similar between PLA and PETG at room temperature, if anything PLA is slightly better. But you definitely wouldn’t trust that PLA inside a car if it’s not annealed, it might be fine outside if it’s painted white, maybe.

I'd like to get into the hobby for the first time and have been considering getting the Creality K2 Pro as a first. How's that one fare as a first-time printer? Was wanting a decently sized printing space and able to print multiple colours.

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>>2991630
Got around to finishing this today, I put on all 4 brackets and it doesn't slide so happy enough with the result, yeah the one bracket wasn't enough to figure out if it actually would slide or not. I did redesign the bracket to be every so slightly smaller and the bottom part doesn't have that big of a hump anymore, but still there. Quite happy with how this project is going, the hardware is pretty much finished, just onto the software side of things now.
>>2991634
>>2991652
Good to know about the rubber tube, I don't have any spare but I'll add that in the next time I come across one.
>>2991641
This way seemed pretty complex and would have to get every super precise from what it looks? Perhaps when I want to spend more time making it super sleek or something I'll revisit the type of bracket to make.

>>2991706
>Good to know about the rubber tube, I don't have any spare but I'll add that in the next time I come across one
Everyone who owns a bike and changes their own tire has one in their box of bike shit.
You don't ever throw out your first/last old tube because it comes in handy for a lot of things.

>>2991706
hey anon, you aren't planning on mounting the suction cup to that right?
like, you HAVE a solid mounting system with those mounts, either screw a mount to the acrylic, or just use those bar mounts across a corner to make a hard mount.

>>2991706
>This way seemed pretty complex
Oh yeah, just using a larger piece of plexiglas with holes in it is definitely better.

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>>2991722
Well thats the idea still with the suction mount. Its just I need the camera to be raised a bit so I dont know how else to do it currently. Unless I print like 3 arms and have a platform like picrel?
>>2991725
Yeah I have a big piece there and it isnt protruding out too much so kept it nice and simple

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fuck i hate spending 2 hours modelling a part someone insists is one of a kind, not purchasable, custom for the tool, and once i finish it i notice a fucking parts number, and its so common that you can buy them in multiple colors for like, $20 a pop.
pic related, an electric motor impeller cover for a brick saw.

>>2991747
how does the rod attach to the suction cup.
my bet is it screws in somewhere.
print the matching thread into something that goes between the corner bars.

>>2991693
r/bambulab is NOT happy about this!

>>2991693
no clue who sfc is, but I find it amusing that the tw german cocksuckers are quiet on the matter.

>>2991761
>once i finish it i notice a fucking parts number
the lesson is don't do things for someone

what should I get to move up from my ender 3?
the OP says Bambu but they seem to have a lot of drama around them and very anti free software feel.
Obviously I don't want any cloud cringe or artificial limitations.
It's a printer not an apple product

>>2991771
>a lot of drama
I couldn't use orca for a few months while I cranked out superior multicolor prints without touching my calibration. It was awful, I think I have PTSD

>>2991771
Qidi Q2
Depends on what you want/need of course, but more than one brand makes capable ready to use printers at fair prices nowadays, so if you want to use your printer through your network without cloud shit avoid Bambulab

>>2991704
Anyone?

>>2991775
it's a printer. It's going to print.
almost all printers are decently good now, with a vast majority of failures coming from wet filament or user error.

>>2991775
it's not a popular model so it's unlikely that you'll find someone who has it among the few anons ITT, but ever since everybody started imitating the Bambu model pretty much all new printers are rather fool-proof. Since you want to do multi color prints look up as many reviews about the filament-swapping system as you can find, that's the part that is most likely to be sub-par

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>>2991761
>how does the rod attach to the suction cup
See picrel, the one with the gopro style mount is connected by a very flimy gopro style mount. Can't measure at the moment but the screw that goes in is fairly skinny, not the size of a normal gopro mount, like half of it iirc, I wouldnt trust it to stay upright without having to constantly play with the screw

>>2991773
I wouldn't reccomend the q2, or anything qidi for someone that wants multicolor ̶w̶a̶s̶t̶e printing, the qidi box doesn't doesn't really work reliably.
Their machines are asa, abs, nylon and engineering material whores though.

The Flashforge AD5X multi-color is on sale for $218 atm. After a $50+ enclosure, it seems like a good value, but as someone who lives in Florida and wants to print in some interesting/durable materials and cares about easily getting replacement parts far into the future... would it be a better idea to pony up $360 for a used Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2? Elegoo has better nozzle hearing, is enclosed, probably more open source friendly.

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Does anyone here print fdm minis? Just got a 0.2 nozzle for my CC2. No idea what settings to use. SUNLU HS PLA+2.0

>>2991771
What materials do you want to print, how fast do you want it to print, and what are you willing to spend? Are you after multi-colour or multi-material? Do you want to be able to do unofficial upgrades your printer’s hardware or firmware?

>>2991828
I’d usually avoid 2nd hand printers unless I’m really sure what condition they’re in. Adding a diy enclosure isn’t the end of the world, you can add some insulation to those wall panels for better high temperature printing if you want.
As for firmware openness, I believe the CC1 has open firmware but I’m not sure about the CC2 and AD5X. I’d prefer to flash mainline Klipper to any printer.

>>2991839
Yea use Orca slicer after dialing it in. And use the "new" style tree supports.

>>2991844
ElegooSlicer is a fork of it. I meant what temps, flow rate, pressure advance, softening temperature, volumetric flow, etc.

>>2991840
probably mostly engineering type filaments
my standards for speed are very low but I'm looking to move up in the world
Probably like $1000ish budget, some wiggle room

>>2991770
the number was literally under layers of silicone and tape, only found it because i had to clean up the old mate fixes to get REAL measurements off it instead of the measurements plus 4mm of silicone.

>>2991788
hole through printed part and a captive bolt

>>2991846
Then you’ll want something enclosed, ideally with a heated chamber, and possibly with multi-material capability. While I am ideologically opposed to them, the Bambu X2D is basically the perfect printer for this.
If you don’t mind some diy upgrades though, the Snapmaker U1’s toolchanging capabilities make it excellent for swapping between engineering filaments and give it the possibility of printing flexible, solid, and support all in one model. Maybe clear light-guides or ESD-rated too. The open firmware looks great, lots of third party support.
If multi-material isn’t a concern, Qidi seem to be the market leader in heated chamber printers in a cheaper price bracket than Bambu’s H-series. But I’m not too familiar with their different models.

>>2991631
I'm really amazed that the PLA is still good

The moment I start heating nylon in my dryer box I just get this taste of plastic in my mouth. I put the dryer box inside my enclosure and turned on the fan. There's great air flow at the outside vent and I can't feel any leaks in the pipe. Yet the moment I turn it on I get that dreadful taste. I just don't get it.

The only thing I can reason is that my enclosure fan is near the bottom (where the printer lets out air) while the dryer box is up top. But still, I have two fans in a fairly short pipe. They move a lot of air. Anyone have any suggestions?

>>2991839
I once copied this guy's settings and gave it a try:
https://old.reddit.com/r/PrintedMinis/comments/1fp3b5a/fdm_miniatures_how_i_print_them_and_my_workflow/
the result was pretty great except for the supports that were a pain to remove, this was on Sunlu PLA+ (not the 2.0) btw
0.04 layer height is crazy smooth

>>2991889
>The only thing I can reason is that my enclosure fan is near the bottom (where the printer lets out air) while the dryer box is up top. But still, I have two fans in a fairly short pipe. They move a lot of air. Anyone have any suggestions?
Use a candle that generates a little smoke to track where the smoke goes.
If practical, use something other than actual smoke such as dry ice, assuming you can easily acquire it.
A tiny smoke machine would be even better and those can be picked up very cheaply online.

Whatever you do, that's how you really know what you're looking at.
If that's too much, just get a scented candle, if you can smell the vanilla or whatever, you know you have a problem. Smoke/fog is better though.
You might have to clean the bed afterwards though.

>>2991889
Make negative air pressure throughout the bad vapours by fixing a suction fan to a window and connecting it to a length of drier hose or other flexible air ducting.

>>2991861
so is qidis multi color/material support just considering not good?
Like on the Q2
Are prusas frowned on these days?

>>2991933
Prusa Core One Plus is decent, lacking in a few areas but otherwise high quality and upgradeable far into the future. If you don't mind the price tag, and possibly having to make your own modifications, it's not a bad idea. If you like the idea of INDX, it's also the only printer known to be compatible with minimal effort, though the fact that you're buying a printer with a hot-end only to chuck it away dissuades me somewhat. If they could drop the price tag by $100-150 by shipping it without the hot-end, that would turn a few heads.

>>2991924
I'll give this a try
>>2991932
This what I have setup

>>2991938
Stronger fan.
Incense sticks are a good way to follow smoke.
Is the smell near the box or near the other end of the pipe?

Could also be the 5G radiation emitted from the carbon fibres acting as microscopic antennas. But that's usually a metallic taste in the mouth, so you're probably safe. God I love Poe's law.

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Is this the result of too much humidity? How do you guys dry your filament without the thing and how often if relative humidity is 50%?

>>2991067
>just buy whatever Bambu fits your budget.
Are they still the hottest printers?

>>2991987
>violates the GPL

Fuck bambu lab.

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God bless Bambu Lab.

Thank God there is a company who understands the value of my time and uses their corporate brain power to engineer solutions that just work, instead of charging exorbitant margins on subpar designs and then handwaving away concerns with vague allusions to global communism.

>>2991987
>hottest printers?
Haven't surpassed the A8.

>>2991960
Maybe, but it doesn’t look like it’s obviously foaming up. What filament is that?

>>2991998
I wonder which company will be the first to release a competitor to the X2D? That is, a printer with a heated chamber and multi-material multi-nozzle capabilities, $1000 or less. Could be a toolchanger, IDEX, or a dual nozzle. Snapmaker U1 pro edition? Creality (lmao) K2 pro? Qidi? FlashForge?

>>2992003
There won't be. The reddit shitlibs and shitjeets can yell and squeal, but anyone who saw the rise of DJI in drones knows what's going to happen. We all heard the stupid "its stolen tech, can't trust da ccp, buy westoid shit" with that, and look what happened. The faggot FCC even banned them and still people just buy and fly regardless. 3D printers just like drones is simply a hardware value business. Either bring the hardware with value, or fuck off.

Sanctimony is not a business strategy, it's a jerk off philosophy.

>>2991939
PAGF and it's not so much a smell as a taste of plastic (maybe metal? I don't really know how to describe it). Kicks in after only a few seconds and lasts for about a day. And I actually have two inline fans, it's a lot of air flow out the vent.

Will probably try incense sticks

>>2992007
Two inline fans? Are they close to the drier or the window? If they're anywhere other than the window-side, they could produce positive pressure to leak out from gaps.

>>2992016
One on the enclosure feeding into the tube and then one part way through the tube feeding out the window. Might it matter that the one in the line is definitely stronger in suction? I've felt along the tube line and haven't noticed any air flow leaking out.

>>2992020
If the pressure at any point in the tube is greater than room pressure, it's a source of potential leaks. Put both fans at the window.

>>2992021
Will do

>>2992006
These people just jerk off in front of a mirror all day. Have seen youtube comments of people talking about other 3d printing youtubers not having an opinion on whats going on with bambu labs. These dorks don't realize that some of these people use a 3d printer the same way a carpenter uses a hammer.

There are some people whose hobby is jerking off in the mirror over their decision to use prusa printers and mozilla firefox, and then there are people with multiple printers that just use the tool that works best for them.

Bambu shilling is on overdrive right now.

Prusa shitting is on indefinite mode forever.

>>2992022
Alright, the swap is done. I'll have to see if the taste disappears.

Next step would probably be trying to remove the grate on the window kit I have
https://a.co/d/04mXuV9L

It's a decent kit but the grating on the 4 inch exhaust is probably reflecting about half the fumes. I have the fan almost right there so it's probably not the end of the world but I wouldn't doubt it might result in leaks. And it just reduces airflow.

Hey everyone I just want to say I LOVE MY BAMBU X2D! It just works.

I'm absolutely certain that whatever legal shit going on is important. I know that even if I don't know how I benefit from the drama, it's a good thing a company is being called out.

But I also just really don't care. It's a little robot crane that extrudes material in a pattern I tell it to do so. And as long as it keeps doing that, it really doesn't effect me. Which is to say, I hope the consumer wins and whatever. But holy shit some of the people involved here are insufferable clout chasers looking to be hailed as heroes for doing literally nothing.

>>2991998
this but unironically

>>2992006
idk it looks to me like a bunch of other brands (also chink ones) are quickly catching up. It's not like Bambu has some kind of tech secret, they just understood the market before anyone else. Idk much about drones but has DJI ever had any concrete competition?
>>2992049
people are touchy about the matter because of the US government trying to impose restrictions on 3D printing, and here's the biggest brand doing questionable shit to ensure that as many customers as possible use their slicer and their cloud... I doubt that anything will come of it for now, but it does leave a bad taste in one's mouth. Anyway in the best case the whiners will get Bambu to throw a bone at us and let us use OrcaSlicer remotely, in the worst case they'll get nothing and I can just ignore them
>>2991998
the gimped second nozzle is a bit of an odd design choice but the value of this printer is insane, I recently settled on building a Voron Trident (more for the joy of tinkering rather than as a political statement) and it's crazy that I'm gonna spend more for less despite getting a chinese kit and needing to spend quite a few hours of work to put it together. You just can't compete with mass production on certain things

>>2992055
economies of scale.

It is nice seeing bambu body all the other chink manufacturers. Creality has been shit and continues to be shit. They are now riding on their filament machines. If bambu never came along we would all be using dogshit prusa bed slingers with a few autismos running corexy or deltas.

>>2992056
>economies of scale
yeah I remember that a uni professor once told us about how much it would cost to diy a proper washing machine, it was in the thousands of euros
>If bambu never came along
they certainly shook things up, I only got into 3D printing because I saw the A1 mini at 200€ and I grabbed it on a whim knowing that it was a retard-proof device, before then everyone made it seem like the cheap printers were a pain in the ass to use so I never bothered

>>2992055
>the gimped second nozzle
Not an issue at all if you're just using it for support material. But apparently its print quality isn't even bad. If you wanted to do a PETG+TPU print, you could print the PETG with the bowden extruder and it would probably come out fine.

>>2992056
Kinda strange how the big chinese brands before Bambu were just fucking around before that. Creality came out with 3 printers a year with completely different designsand so couldn't scale off their existing manufacturing, and only one of those three would actually turn out to be a step forward in the market. FlashForge were in the back of my mind with beginner friendly slow enclosed printers with a very limited market, though they probably had better machines I wasn't aware of.

But I suspect someone would have done something similar. Bedslingers were becoming a solved formula with Kingroon and Sovol chasing Prusa but with better prices. And modding Ender 5s to get enclosed faster printers was taking off enough that surely someone would catch on and sell one ready to go. Voron kits were already a thing at that point, I think you could buy ready-made Troondons at that point too. If anything, the big leap was away from aluminium extrusions for something cheaper to manufacture.

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How do you guys fix fucked up meshes? I have this model I boolean joined and diffed to oblivion with tinkercad and it exports to stl and prints fine, but I can't import it back and shows some atrocious numbers on https://www.formware.co/onlinestlrepair and gets stuck, I also fumbled with Rhino to no avail and other mesh fixing softwares like Meshmixer

>>2992074
whenever I tried reparing meshes from a fucked up geometry in meshlab it ended up being a waste of time. Hopefully someone more experienced can help you, but why do you need to import the stl back? Did you not save the original project?

>>2992059
You cannot physically produce something cheaper than the Chinese in the U.S. unless its so fucking big and cheap and shit that its prohibitively expensive to ship. These fuckers take it a step further and cut as many corners as they can to squeeze you out, and amazon prioritizes them over american manufacturers because the chinks load amazons pockets with FBA storage fees. The bambu machines are retard proof too, and compared to what I have used over the last 13 years it was a game changer. I remember my first P1S. Was genuinely impressed.

>>2992063
The big leap was the resonance compensation, bed leveling, and speed. The crealitys had touch probes and were still shit. You could plug in a bambu without leveling the bed and it would shit out a 2 hour print in 15 minutes. There just wasn't anything close to it on the market I could think of and at that price point. It was like a 2 generation leap.

>>2992077
>The big leap was the resonance compensation, bed leveling, and speed
Yes but Vorons and other diy printers of the time already had all that, it wasn't a Bambu innovation at all. If I recall Prusa at the time were still sticking with Marlin and couldn't do the resonance compensation as easily, but I think their bed levelling was fine, same for Kingroon. And there were off-the-shelf delta printers printing pretty fast at the time too, but they were expensive. Maybe the software end was more of a pain to get an equivalent result, but you could get an equivalent result.

Bambu's big leap wasn't the printing technology itself, it was making that same or equivalent technology cheaper to produce, and easier to use. Bambu innovated with their carbon linear rods, which seems like it didn't work out, and their AMS + toolhead filament cutter system, which was a distinct success. And maybe also on the construction front (not sure) and their firmware, which seems to be functionally equivalent to Klipper but without using a separate MCU and SoC.

>>2992074
i toss it into the basic windows 3d model builder, and run the fix.
works better than most others for some reason.
if that doesn't work i leave it in the model builder, and booleen it by itself, which makes it solid for some reason.

>>2992079
>leave it in the model builder, and booleen it by itself
huh, that's clever

I can see how that would work, the resulting object is more basic geometry defined by the edges and without any quirks introduced through the modelling process.

>>2992080
yeah, the 3d builder is so dumb it just fills any space.
which is the biggest brain move of all.
i use it to unhollow resin prints all the time to turn 72mm scale models into 28mm scale.

>>2992081
>yeah, the 3d builder is so dumb it just fills any space.
>which is the biggest brain move of all.
I think the basic technique might work in a lot of cad programs.

>>2992079
>windows 3d model builder
us linux chuds really are missing out

>>2992083
don't worry little femboy, Microsoft has discontinued the 3d builder like all the other tools that actually just work.
it'll vanish in the next 5 updates, then magically a NEW 3d builder, with AI assistant, for $16 a year will pop up instead.

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Following on from >>2991706 I printed off a gopro style mount for the stick. Turns out the rails on the box do turn when enough force is applied to it, and thus the whole pole always ends up going to the side. Plus I don't think there's enough clamping force on the print (don't know how much I can over tighten PETG before it snaps) and the stick itself also rotates.
Also the threaded inserts I used just ended up puling out as well at the same time, not very effective.
Thinking of just designing like a wedge so the bottom bracket sits again the box, so the pole doesn't rotate but then won't it just end up leaning away from the box instead of towards it?
I'm feeling as if the suction mount still isn't a bad idea after all

>>2992092
the threaded inserts pulling out is odd, did you make sure to push them in slowly? And how many walls are there around the holes?

>>2992092
I would make the mating portion clasp the outer err, flanges? They're not flanges but you know what I mean.
On one side of the mating surface, the outer "flange" is bracketed, the other side it's only got one and then the nut.
I'd have four protruding elements rather than three, to more fully mate with the mount.
Design in a captive hexagonal recess for the nut, on the outermost surface.

Otherwise, I think an issue is that you're not constraining the surface well enough, give it more than one point of contact by making an arm or something that extends over the box.
Those little tie-points or something that look like butterfly/bow-ties, can you design something that slots into them on both sides and mounts the camera monopod?
That arm can itself be secured both on the sides on those tie-points (if that's possible) and the back rail, which will secure the whole thing much better than a single bolted-on bracket.

>>2992076
Sometimes tinkercad complains when I make new changes to it.

>>2992084
>>2992079
I managed to install 3D builder from some shady source but even that one is getting stuck at repair, even merging two copies seems to fail.

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>>2992093
Yeah I only pushed with just enough pressure to get them in once it got hot. I will assume because the outside threads of the brass are straight so I guess it doesn't really hold well against forces? And have at least 4 walls on that part
>>2992094
The part where the nut is on the camera mount is part of the actual stick itself, there wouldn't be a way for me to add another prong on that side because that's where the nut is, so those 3 prongs is about all I can get there
Are you talking about something like the left side of pic rel? Just having an arm that would go to both mounts?
Also just came up with another idea, there is a bit of a notch on the black corners, was thinking if I create a profile on the outside (red line) and then have the inside of the bracket (green line) would that be enough to secure it or it still would be more ideal to go the two bracket approach?

>>2992099
I mean a t-shaped bracket.
The more points of contact, the more secure it will be.
The monopod can then attach to the intersection of the bracket. That will constrain one degree of freedom, the rotation you're suffering on the rail-attached bracket.
The angled bracket you're proposing would partially accomplish this but probably enable a degree of rotation at 90d to the side mount...or 45d to the rail.

>>2992099
>the outside threads of the brass are straight so I guess it doesn't really hold well against forces
that's true but in theory the slanted teeth in the middle should hold everything in place, you installed them properly so it means that the plastic is yielding a little, if you keep using it keep an eye on it because if the inserts come out any further it's likely that they will fail eventually

>>2991960
Looks like a partial nozzle clog, do a cold pull

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>>2992092
looks like you're using injection molding inserts, not heat set inserts.
also, jesus dude, just make the top panel go to the FRONT bar as well, like a triangle.
its right there.

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>>2991067
just getting back into 3d printing. here is Jet the ripper files i just bought. link is good for 10 days. https://limewire.com/d/9ia4l#EU0w2LyFqr

question for you guys im gonna print this boat in petg. google and the boats designer mentions petg is a good material but they only give setup tips for abs and pla. what settins are good for petg? can i use the same as pla? thanks

>>2992119
>what settins are good for petg? can i use the same as pla?
Nearly but you need higher temps on bed and hotend.
This somewhat depends on your bed, enclosure, part cooling and just the brand of petg.
Assuming a glass bed, use at least 80c, you'd probably benefit from being a bit hotter if you can.
For the hotend temp, refer to the information on the box/reel of the petg, it should say what to use. I use 235c but yours might be different.
Your printer/slicer may or may not have a profile of that manufacturer's specific product too.

Much depends on your printer and the specific brand/product of filament.

>>2992119
this is why I don't post my work. thanks for sharing though. I used to print PETG on my mini-delta, open sides and the bed maxxed at 50C. it will be fine, don't over think it. Oh but don't use a pei plate. Blue painters tape if that's all you have otherwise it's hard to fuck up.

>>2992003
>FlashForge
They just went closed source and now there's AI ads on their slicer.

>>2992131
Sounds like they’re ahead of the curve.

>>2992122
>>2992129
dang thanks for the heads up about the tape. I had to use tape with a davinci xyz. This bambu came with a plate and I just assumed it didn't need it. i'll just print some test pieces. I know thats what i need to do anyways

>>2992161
PETG should be fine on a textured (powder coated PEI) bed. It’s just smooth beds that it tends to rip up. It should say in the documentation, or their website or FAQ or whatever.

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Sorry for the noob question. Orca Slicer puts this bar thing here on every print to get the filament running, I assume. But it's very close to my part. Can I remove it or move it somehow?

>>2992179
look for your print_start gcode and remove that portion

>>2992179
it's a line that is intended to purge degraded and otherwise odd filament prior to the start of the print and make sure that when it gets to the actual part things are running smoothly. just leave it.

I just realized that 3D printing even with PLA is probably harmful and I'm probably breathing in microplastics as I print...
My printer is not enclosed... should I make an enclosure or something? How do I not get cancer?

>>2992179
>But it's very close to my part
Nah, there's a visible gap in there, that's plenty of space.
Just leave it, the machine won't care, the print won't fail (at least not because of it) and you make sure the nozzle is purged of old filament.

>>2992197
1. no
2. turns out nitrile gloves shed particles that detect as microplastic so all those studies are fucking garbage
3. also no

Fellas.
Terrible news.

I need to become Part of The Problem.

In an effort to get me out of my bedroom, my sister has enrolled us in a maker fair kinda thing.
She wants me to 3D Print a bunch of bullshit in order to flog at this thing. So, I need to come up with a bunch of shit to flog at a market in like a month.
Suggestions?

>>2992208
You are going to be selling slop there alongside 15 other retarded 3d printing booths and you are all going to be wondering why nobody wants to buy your overpriced plastic fidgets they can get for $.03 on temu.

>>2992208
if you want to put a little of effort into it you could look into how to print mountains and cities and make some local stuff

>>2992179
>Can I remove it or move it somehow?
You can move the part, do that if it bothers you.

>>2992207
>turns out nitrile gloves shed particles that detect as microplastic so all those studies are fucking garbage
tbf if nitrile gloves shed particles, probably everything else does too.
The data is compromised but it does certainly suggest that a problem exists.

>>2992209
That's what I'm trying to avoid!!!

>>2992212
That'd be cool. I'm in a major city, so I could do shit like that. I guess sports too.

I was thinking of doing tanks and vehicle/mechanical stuff too.

>>2992216
Go meta and print gridfinity tool box hoarding shit to sell directly to makers

Have you noticed steppers motors getting hot?
Are you doing anything to prevent that from happening?

I have a neptune 4pro/bed slinger and its y-axis stepper motor gets very hot.
I already put on one heatsink but it still gets very hot. will ghetto-rig more onto it and check again.

>>2992224
>Have you noticed steppers motors getting hot?
No, I'd assume they get somewhat hot while in use because that's thermodynamics but I wouldn't expect to cook an egg on one.

>>2992208
You need products with as wide of a target market as possible. Categories are:
>accessories for very popular products - e.g. Stanley cups
>toys for kids
>touristy stuff
>actual novel invention people see intrinsic merit in
Give up on that last one. If anything you can probably get the most mileage out of toys, if you can make them sturdy enough, and sufficiently distinctive. Fighter jets with robust stubby wings and no moving parts might be enough, though to set yourself apart I’d want to do multi-colour prints (in multiple parts) or do some spray-painting with stencils or 3D printed masks to get a nice colour going on. Something sufficiently quick to do in bulk. Taking advantage of the technology, you could make print-in-place mechanisms like a movable tank-turret, but anything smaller like wheels are likely to be kinda delicate.

Consider TPU prints, especially as addons to PLA prints by inserting during a pause.

>>2992224
How hot? Too hot to touch is excessive. Turn the stepper current down until it’s acceptable, then test for stall torque and maximum acceleration to see if it’s adequate.

>print something for a teacher friend and their teacher friends
>each one takes 12h but i have two printers and i can fit 2x per plate so it only takes 2 days to print 4 of them
>everyone loves them
>asks me to print 48 more for end of year so they can gift to entire faculty
>manage to fit 3 per plate with overlapping cursed supports
>both printers tied up for 12 days with a 15 day deadline
>have only charged for filament in the past for small jobs, feel trapped now
>can't miss a turnover/reset, every minute of downtime pushes the whole schedule into the "stay up late/wake up early" territory to start the next batch
>manage to get it done
>usually clean up the supports but explain it will take 6+ hours
>show them how on day 1
>they leave it to the last day and complain about needing to remove the supports
never again

>>2992208
durable small cheap shit like keychains you can print a dozen at a time. the local big city or a state cutout is good. do you have multicolor? whistles, fidget toys, find stuff that prints easy multiple per bed and just crank that shit out.

>>2992216
do not print local sports team, you'll get curbfucked becasue they DO patrol craft fairs and protect their IP

>>2992235
>>2992235
>>print something for a teacher friend and their teacher friends
>>each one takes 12h but i have two printers and i can fit 2x per plate so it only takes 2 days to print 4 of them
>>everyone loves them
>>asks me to print 48 more for end of year so they can gift to entire faculty
>say "no"
problem solved

>>2992235
I offered to print some things for a coworker then he sent me some models that would take a week of continuous printing. I don't know when I'll ever do it.

If I'm retrofitting a z18 with a new mobo and print head so it can run Klipper, what sort of motherboard should I be looking at? I've looked at Big Tree Tech and several seem like they would work but I'm wondering if there is any other brand/line/etc I should also look at, or is BTT pretty much the go-to for DIY printers?

I'm planning on using an x86 machine to run Klipper on so I don't have to buy a pi/compute module in case that makes any difference. Also when not using a board with an integrated compute module, how do you physically connect that to the mainboard so Klipper can talk to the firmware? RJ45? USB? Serial? GPIO? (wifi/bluetooth seems like it would be unsuitable)

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>>2992216
>I was thinking of doing tanks and vehicle/mechanical stuff too.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/13922-surprise-egg-7-tiny-car-carrier
These are cool and you can print a dozen in one go, then swap parts so you get multicolored sets.

Also multicolor stuff really benefits from printing in bulk, so look at stuff like https://makerworld.com/en/models/2352894-harry-potter-themed-bookmark-hueforge and similar stuff

>>2992131
Procrastination (and being poor) once again pays off for me. I put off buying an AD5M. But is there any low cost alternative to FlashForge?

>>2992297
CC2 is probably as close as you’ll get for a coreXY, though a Kobra X might be worth considering.

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>>2992227
>>2992248
>>2992249
>>2992264

Yeah, I definitely think the angle is cheap high volume stuff. I've sold some of my own designs in the past. But, there's not really much point putting the time and effort into it this time around as it simply won't be done or worthwhile, mostly because I'm an autistic perfectionist.

But, yeah I do think there's some value in like a lot of low value items, and then the occasional item that's cool to look at. Getting people to check out the technology and maybe end up buying a random print is potentially a good move. Maybe...
Multi-material is probably the way to go.
I have a P2S with an AMS and a P1S without. My sister has an A1 Mini with an AMS Mini.

I have a bunch of PETG, various colours of PLA. A few kilos of black ABS a roll of TPU in red.
I've got a few random sparkly bullshit filament and glow in the dark things I was bored one day and decided to try out. So, there's a lot of material variety I could fuck with.

Local sports team would be Manchester United, or Manchester City. I have no idea how hard they police that shit. Must be loads of people doing shit of them.

I also think selling these little card kits would be cool There's a bunch of them of different makes and models.

I'll let you guys know how things go.

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Hi, new to 3d printing.
I took a quick look at https://www.simplify3d.com/resources/print-quality-troubleshooting/, but couldn't find anything about supports.
My prints have all had their supports just fall over. First was with the supports all on the bed, but the one support that extended to the middle of the print fell over in the middle of the print. Then I tried to get the middle supports to print on the print itself but I just checked the print and found that it also fell over.
Why does this happen?

>>2992372
You need supports for the supports

>>2992372
>Why does this happen?
Something is fucky with the tree/tower parameters. Maybe you unchecked something about their brim or their overhang angle or something.

>>2992375
Is it because it's 'qidi'? I've left almost all the parameters as their defaults, only checking the enable supports for the first time, and changing the branch angle from default of 45 to 25 for the second time. Should I use some other software?

>>2992372
Could be general bed adesion issues. Getting any lifting of those corners? If so, I'd look into Z-offset, bed temperature, and a good soapy scrub. Worst case you could expand brims or look into an adhesion aid like spray-on glue. Increasing brim size on the supports alone should be doable.
Otherwise, it might be print-head collision. For this I'd want to turn on Z-hopping and/or "do not cross perimeters" so travel moves will avoid your supports. Z hopping up to 1-2mm is extreme, but might be needed.
If your supports look weak and easy to break (patchy wall quality), then slowing down their print speed might help. Even if they look strong, they might possibly be printing too hot (or too fast for your amount of part cooling, or too much heat accumulating inside the enclosure) and be curling up and into the path of the nozzle, where slowing the support print speed would also help.
It could also just be that your travel moves are too fast, causing the whole printer to vibrate, flexing supports into the path of the nozzle. For this cause slowing travel moves, avoiding crossing perimeters, and Z-hop will all potentially help, and so might putting your printer on a solid platform (e.g. flagstone, solid benchtop).
If you can film the failure of the support, that would help.

Finally, you may want to consider redesigning your print to not need supports. This may be a matter of adding angles that can be printed as overhangs, or trusting your printer's ability to bridge them flat. I say that, but stock part cooling is usually pretty shitty compared to the best aftermarket ducts (dual 5015 hero me).

>>2992382
>For this I'd want to turn on Z-hopping and/or "do not cross perimeters" so travel moves will avoid your supports. Z hopping up to 1-2mm is extreme, but might be needed.
That sounds good, I'll definitely try that next time.
I haven't noticed any warping at the base, and the supports that have stuck throughout the whole print are usually very well stuck, and don't feel loose when I peel them off. I've been using liquid PVA to help the supports stay adhered, so I'm hoping it's a print-head collision issue.
>If you can film the failure of the support, that would help.
I'm at work during the printing, so I'm unable to do that.
>Finally, you may want to consider redesigning your print to not need supports.
Unfortunately, I do not have the time to learn how to properly design objects.

>>2992379
>Is it because it's 'qidi'?
I dunno
I don't know shit about qidi

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>>2992370
>I do think there's some value in like a lot of low value items
Notebook accessories.

What household doesn't have a notebook?
Who's actually going to wait six weeks for an aliexpress piece of plastic junk, or bother buying it on amazon for more than it's worth?
But if it's right there in a market, in front of you for $3, why not get a piece of plastic junk that will actually be kind of useful?
Unfortunately the image seems to be slop but the concept is sound and there's loads of non-slop versions out there.

This modular notebook (paper version) thing looks cool but I don't see a free version.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/DPsMjhwAiUg

>>2992384
>I'm at work during the printing, so I'm unable to do that.
Set up a time-lapse camera for the printer, there's loads of solutions for that.

I just recently said goodbye to my dog. I'm a fucking mess. I'm taking on getting a 3d printer as a fixation and project to keep me occupied. I understand you get recommendations questions left and right, but I just wanted to know if there is an 'open source' recommendation? I have been looking at Bambu etc but just want to double check what people recommend? Sorry for the question but I thought I'd ask the experts. I'm in Australia if that helps with pricing/availability. Whats a decent model to get that wont limit me as my experience and exposure grows? Thanks in advance and sorry for asking even tho it says in the op!

>>2992496
>open source
Stay the fuck away from Bambu.

>>2992496
I just got into 3d printing with a Bambu X2D and love it. But I kind of regret not considering the snapmaker u1 as it seems to mog for multicolor prints.

>>2992501
any alternative OEM?
>>2992503
thanks lad

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>>2992496
you should get the a1 cause it just works. i got this friday and its been going ever since. i think i had a problem with vibration(see the wavy section) so i moved it to the floor. maybe that boat i linked to above is still active. its gonna be huge! i ran out of black so ive printing a cable chain for the printer in the mean time. no issues so far

>>2992515
cheers mate

>>2992503
THE u1 VS the X2d debate is getting tiring to me, like dam dude, enjoy your multi colored baby yoda flexi dragons, but im here printing functional items with engineering grade materials

>>2992496
Get a Bambu X2D and leave the open sores behind.

There's not even anything limiting, they're just making a big boogeyman out of nothing because they can't afford a $5000 prusa lol

>>2992512
I don't know, I only ever used bambu and creality machines.
Bambu is against everything open source, they want to control it all. If you care for open source, they're the worst option.
Creality has some decent hardware and it's probably gonna be cheaper than bambu for a similar machine but their software is shit. They overhauled their lineup last year and the new models don't have root (yet), if you get one, make sure it's an older model and root it. That'd fix 95% of your problems, once you calibrate everything.
Creality multimaterial module (they call it CFS) is pretty poopy and I don't know how you'd make that work with a rooted machine.
>>2992515
>a1
>causally sets itself on fire
Nothing personal, kid.

How smelly is resin printing? Could I realistically run it in my shared office with my wife? She doesn't care about most smells (I regularly paint with oils and mineral spirits etc). Obviously acetone baths etc I'd likely do somewhere else.

>>2992523
I don't know if they have different resins that smell nicer, but on a shared space I used to go to they stank bad. I never used it myself but it was on a separate area with it's own exhaust system, all that was necessary. That's how bad it was.
It also makes a huge mess. You're not handling thick syrupy resin without gloves and no spills and cleaning it is a bitch. Every surface around that one was sticky and we didn't even make anime figures on it.

>>2992517
>installs lid
>installs chamber heater with flawless klipper integration
>now able to print rigid + flexible + inlay + support materials in one print
The real argument for the X2D is convenience, for something that does engineering materials out of the box. But if you ever do want to mod it, you’re shit outta luck.

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>>2992503
>snapmaker u1
seems like it would save a lot of print time and filament poop. if you're not slopping for profit I'm not sure that would matter that much, but it is hard to see a 4hr print turn to 17hr when you add color. also a con, for at least the x1c, is the first stage feeder towers are a consumable and they no longer sell parts only full towers. if that's not the case with the u1 it might put me over the edge.

>>2992535
the market has changed, im going to pull a number out of my ass and say 98% of people who buy a printer now just wants a machine that works flawlessly and will never do any actual mods instead of minor things and bambu fits that role perfectly,
by being autists on a 3d print forum makes us the outliers

>>2992581
>the first stage feeder towers
You mean the motorised filament buffers inside the AMS? Yeah I'm not sure about those, my impression is they all use brushed motors and so won't last forever, but probably long enough. I know the early AMSs had issues with the filament input guides wearing, but I think they made them more wear-resistant with newer models.
The filament buffers inside the U1 look much harder to access, but I'm not certain on that. Can't they make a filament buffer that just lasts? Maybe that means using bearing rollers to guide the filament.

>>2992588
Yeah I'd probably agree, but the original question was asking for an 'open source' recommendation. So he's already an autist.
And I say there's a 5% chance that US or EU legislation will make locked-down printers really shitty, enough to turn that 98% into 75-50%. For example:
>requiring an internet connection to print
>nusiance "looks like gun" false reports
>bricks itself after 2-4 years because they can't be fucked putting out firmware updates for an old machine to make it compliant
>sufficiently public cases of false imprisonment or seizure of assets
>"we're no longer selling anything in your country because your laws are a pain" along with "illegal to import spare parts"
Though I think we'll be fine.

>>2992496
the actual open source solution is a Voron, but that's not something you should get in from the get go unless you are seriously determined because they need to be built from scratch and they are also made with a bunch of 3D printed parts. Then there's Sovol that basically sells pre-built Vorons with some proprietary (kinda) parts. If you are not that autistic about open source then anything that you can install Klipper on is something that you can fuck with to a degree and there's a bunch of options. Bambulab is the most closed source brand I think but it's also the most popular and probably the easiest one to start with, good if you only care about the printing part but avoid it if you think that you might like tinkering with a printer and modding it

>>2992605
thanks for the good response mate. probably will stick to bambulabs to begin with and if I really hate how cucked it is ill look further into it and see if it's necessary

>>2992606
not a bad plan, worst case scenario you can just sell it pretty easily and get something else in the future

>>2992605
I don't think open source hardware is a sticking point for many people, considering any popular printer has parts reverse engineered and improved with custom prints anyhow. It's only the software that they can change after the sale.

>>2992611
yeah and afaik Sovol gives out the schematics for their hardware anyway, I just mentioned it for clarity's sake

>>2992370
>I also think selling these little card kits would be cool There's a bunch of them of different makes and models.
I printed https://makerworld.com/en/models/1729224-toyota-hilux-t1-kitcard and it's quite nice

>>2992479
>$3
>something that takes several hours to print
That's quite some retard approach

>>2992479
5 minutes in CAD

also no that's fucking stupid, people aren't walking around a craft fair looking for some ugly laptop stand. make a phone holder they can actually put their phone in and NEED would be a much better use of filament

>>2992596
not the motors the caps, the gray caps they sold replacements for that even PLA just shreds. now it's a full feeder. the optical filament sensors also used to be a replacement, it's unclear if they go bad or just need to be cleaned but they definitely fail and again it's a whole feeder. I've successfully cleaned two but I have another feeder with an unspecified failure and a few that are wedged to keep them tight as the screws suck and strip.

>>2992641
>>2992642
exactly one one piece S curve phone holder you can print bedfulls at a time with rainbow filament would be good item.

Is PLA good for anything?

>>2992653
for any application that doesn't put it under a (relatively high) constant load and doesn't expose it to heat it's pretty much as good as ABS

>>2992496
I got a FlashForge Adventurer 5M and it has been treating me well. They are having some issues with freedoms and starting to lock things down, so maybe not the best bet, but so far it's just that you can't send the prints through wireless, which you can avoid by using a flash drive. I use open source Orca Slicer and it works fine.
Sorry about your friend.

>>2992642
>5 minutes in CAD
The original file name was "gemini_generated_image_jc1e4tjc1e4tjc1e.webp"
You tell me whether it's slop.

>people aren't walking around a craft fair looking for some ugly laptop stand
Of course not but they will look at it and go
>oh, I have a laptop, I can use that
>the kids might use that

A phone holder is good, possibly better. There's two or three designs I think are pretty good.
Ones that twist to pop out into a stand and are just something you can put a finger through when collapsed.
Ones that unfold into stands but also can be hooked onto belt loops or bag straps.

I have a fancy thing on my phone I bought in akibara that lets me hook it to almost anything and also serves as a stand and also as something that my finger goes through so I don't drop it when taking pics over railings and shit. Or in bed, it doesn't fall out of my hand onto my face.
There is going to be plastic shit that would do these tasks as well.

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>Orca Cloud
>Orca Cloud is now live at cloud.orcaslicer.com — a centralized platform that brings your 3D printing workflow online.

>It keeps your printer, filament, and process profiles synchronized across every machine you use, lets you share finely tuned preset bundles with the community, and helps you discover configurations created by fellow makers around the world.

>Think of it as the connective tissue between your slicer, your profiles, and the broader OrcaSlicer ecosystem — no more manually copying config files between computers or hunting through forums for the right profile.

>Note: Orca Cloud is optional. Local profiles and existing OrcaSlicer workflows continue to work as before. You can keep using OrcaSlicer without logging in to Orca Cloud.

>Open ecosystem: Orca Cloud is part of our long-term vision for an open 3D printing ecosystem. We want OrcaSlicer to connect users, contributors, printer manufacturers, filament makers, and hardware/software partners through shared profiles, better compatibility data, and smoother workflows. We welcome users, makers, manufacturers, and partners to join, integrate, and collaborate with us to build an ecosystem that benefits the whole community and the wider 3D printing industry.

>This is just the beginning. We have many more features planned for Orca Cloud and the broader OrcaSlicer ecosystem.

Is it over? Is OrcaSlicer compromised?

>>2992688
looks vibecoded

>>2992655
>for any application that doesn't put it under a (relatively high) constant load and doesn't expose it to heat
>heat in this instance meaning being exposed to a sunny day

So basically nothing.

>>2992653
>>2992705
Enclosures for projects (especially non-warm electronics) that aren’t placed outside. Jigs (for drilling or cutting or setting things up on an angle) and forms (for bending sheet metal) and moulds (for casting epoxy). Small (~<100mm) structural brackets and such, where the scale intrinsically makes the load forces a non-issue thanks to the square cube law. Anything aesthetic.

If you anneal the stuff, the creepage goes down, the impact resistance goes up, and the temperature resistance goes way up. Though this implies you’re able to stop it from warping, carbon fibres in your filament works for this, so does packing salt or sand around your print.

>>2992705
>>2992738
Also if it’s light coloured PLA, heat from the sun coming through a house’s window isn’t going to warp it. Even if it’s dark, a project box has so little load on it that warping shouldn’t be an issue. Not so much for more loaded structural applications though.

So what's the latest on microplastic risk around 3d printers, or is the community just taking the cancer diagnosis as part of the cost?

>>2992745
Micro plastics are inert little chunks of plastic that end up in the soil and in your food. If you’re sanding your prints without a mask, they might end up in your lungs. Not really a 3D printing problem if you’re not retarded.

The more pressing concern is VOCs, which is why people connect vent hoses to their printers, and use activated carbon filters. Mainly an issue with plastics other than PLA, unless you’re printing ABS it’s probably less harmful than new car smell.

>>2992739
it might be because I live in a temperate environment but I've never had anything PLA warp in my house no matter the color or its placement, it softens at over 50°C so unless you put it inside something that has an oven effect like a car or near a direct heat source it should be pretty safe

>>2992766
I’ve seen large cosplay props deform enough to no longer be straight; black prints in direct sunlight.

>>2992745
I moved my setup outdoors after I printed stuff for 5 hours and started coughing and having trouble breathing. I'm not risking getting cancer because I wanted to 3D print a case.

>>2992767
I see, since they are big and mostly empty (I assume) they probably cave in easily compared to the small, thick-walled parts I usually make
>>2992768
tf were you printing, mustard gas?

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tinymaker finally arrived, only took 2+ years.
Took so long I don't know what to make with it now.

>>2992788
what is the point of that?

>>2992797
printing space marine
singular

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abs-cf ftw.

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>>2992801

>>2992773
>mustard
No, I was printing with corn.

>>2992797
>>2992800
That was the intention when i first wanted it.
35mm miniatures, and perhaps small statues i could build from parts.
All for painting.

>>2992802
I'm a brainlet, what is this for?
>>2992810
odd, in my experience printing pla in an unventilated room is a bit unpleasant but not that terrible
>>2992811
are you not interested in that anymore? Or are you just uninspired?

>>2992788
it's like a playskool resin printer? make $10 by selling it on craigslist

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>>2992816
That tube on the inside holds a paint marker. It marks material with a paint dot at a set interval making it easier for the operator to count a linear dimension as the material scoots by underneath. I've been on this for quite a while, but never a project I wanted to get into and had been procrastinating for nearly a month.
>>2990460