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File: 1764269940278953.jpg (2.14 MB, 3840x2160)
2.14 MB JPG
Last Thread: >>2988818
Round 2™ Edition

>Your print failed? Go to:
www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting

>Calibrate your printer.
ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/
teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

If that doesn't help you solve your problems, post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [52/40/10 :detadpU tsaL]
Do your own research, but if you gotta ask; just buy whatever Bambu fits your budget.
DIY: reprap.org/wiki/
SLA: >>>/tg/3dpg

>Where can I get things to print?
www.thingiverse.com/
thangs.com/
printables.com/
grabcad.com/
www.yeggi.com/
cults3d.com/
www.stlfinder.com/
google.com/
T*legr*m

>What CAD software should I use?
Free to anyone: FreeCAD, Fusion360, Onshape, TinkerCAD,
Free to me: Autodesk Inventor, AutoCAD, Solidworks, Rhino, Solid Edge
Autistic /g/ooners: OpenSCAD, OpenJSCAD, CadQuery
Participation medal entries: PTC Creo, Solvespace
Mesh free-forming and modeling: Blender
Architects: Sketchup

>What slicer should I use?
For everyone: Cura, PrusaSlicer, BambuStudio for Bambu owners.
For enthusiasts: SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicer
For autists: Pleccer/SuperPleccer, Kiri:Moto, FullControl, IceSL

Legacy Pastebin (Last updated 12-8-2020): pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
>>
OK, smooth sailing now. Glad I started to work on it when I did.
>>
I just switched from a 0.4 to a 0.2 nozzle because the part spec called for it and every print is just a blob stuck to the nozzle, even if the first layer sort of adheres, it gets picked up by the blob and the print bed is clean afterwards.
I'm printing petg through a volcano nozzle.

Any suggestions?
0.4 nozzle was printing fine.
>>
>>2991030
thank u anon
>>
>>2991093
Np
>>
Is the X2D really the 'good enough' for most, or will stepping up to the H2D really unlock 2x value?
>>
File: 1758827443399944.jpg (2.83 MB, 2576x2910)
2.83 MB JPG
>>2991097
diminishing returns, but the 350*340 bed is the main driving factor.
t. annon that's had an h2d innacart cart all week.
Having never dealt with anything bambu I never knew how cloud dependent they are unless in development mode, and then there's a few features that appear to be lost but I haven't bothered looking into it too much.
>>
>>2991086
What’s your layer height? If it’s too high it won’t stick well, if it’s small then you really have to dial Z-offset in well.

What build surface, and when did you last wash it with soap and water?
>>
>>2991126
>What’s your layer height? If it’s too high it won’t stick well, if it’s small then you really have to dial Z-offset in well.
>What build surface, and when did you last wash it with soap and water?

Layer height is 0.2mm, I suppose Z-offset will be more influential than at 0.4mm, I never really messed with that before because it hasn't seemed to be necessary.
Is there a guide on how to do it?
It's a Kobra Max 1 with auto-levelling but there is a Z-offset parameter that is manual and I've left it alone until now.

The build surface is glass with a coating, I cleaned it with IPA after the first failure but it didn't make any difference, I haven't done with soap and water in a while but I guess I should try that too.
>>
>>2991131
>Layer height is 0.2mm
Don’t do 1:1, you get no layer-squish. I’d go for no more than 0.15mm layer height with a 0.2mm nozzle, ideally closer to 0.1mm.
>>
>>2991131
the equivalent would be printing 0.4mm layer heights with a 0.4 mm nozzle. ideally no more than 3/4's of the nozzle is you max layer height.
>>
>>2991067
>For enthusiasts: SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicer
is SuperSlicer still worth getting into? I see that it's still getting updated but at a slower rate than others, does it still offer more functionality than OrcaSlicer?
I've been reading Elli's Print Tuning Guide
https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/
and it seems like it's that guy's preferred slicer, but the guide must be a bit old at this point
>>
>>2991097
Unless you need a larger build plate or you want to do a laser/plotter upgrade the X2D is a pretty good value and mostly sufficient. Should be able to handle ABS and the rare times you want to do something like petg or pla support material. I have yet to use multi material support just because I try to design my parts around not needing supports. Just extra cost and print time.
>>
File: print.png (1.48 MB, 1280x960)
1.48 MB PNG
Any idea why my print layers look a bit off? Would it be just down to temps?
>>
>>2991159
underextrusion
you DID calibrate your extrusion multiplier right?
check your extruder pressure too.
>>
>>2991162
Nope haven't calibrated that. Was never assed to go through the whole process because people say you have to do it each time depending on the filament and even the colour so I never bothered as of yet because it takes like 10 mins minimum to do its calibration steps before it even starts printing anything and I'm swapping out filaments all the time.
Guess I just have to go through the whole process after all and curse myself whenever I change filaments?
Is extruder pressure the same as pressure advance?
>>
>>2991165
>i skipped a bunch of steps and my tool isn't working, what happened?
seriously though, you calibrate for each NEW roll once, if you have a slicer worth a damn it lets you save that setting per filament, so if you change you just set it back to that profile.
do the same for temperature, since you could just be running cold.
extruder pressure is the pressure the extruder is applying to the filament, look for the little arm putting pressure against the extrusion gear, it should JUST leave gear teeth impressions on the plastic, if it doesn't then its probably not pushing your filament hard enough.
>>
>>2991168
Well it had just werked before when I was printing with black and now with orange it was showing up this type of stuff
Ill spend today calibrating it then and see how it goes afterwards. I'll take a look at the knob and see if if that needs adjusting too
>>
Anons do you exhaust your printers outside? I'm just finishing up exhausting my X2D out a window, using smart plugs to trigger an inline blower while the printer is running. I have the printer in an attached garage so it's mostly unnecessary but it feels good knowing that the UFPs are outside now.
>>
>>2991173
Nah I have the printer in my bedroom, no exhaust needed, too overkill desu
>>
>>2991140
you can use more than one. before bambu locked it down (who'd have guessed?) I switched regularly back and forth between bambu and orca. idk what super offers, but if you need that feature you can just use super for that one print.
>>
>>2991132
>Don’t do 1:1, you get no layer-squish. I’d go for no more than 0.15mm layer height with a 0.2mm nozzle, ideally closer to 0.1mm
>>2991135
>the equivalent would be printing 0.4mm layer heights with a 0.4 mm nozzle. ideally no more than 3/4's of the nozzle is you max layer height.
That makes sense, thought the part for the 0.4noz did specify a layer height of 0.4mm too and it turned out fine, it has no fine detail though.

I was actually asking about advice/guides on tuning Z-offset though, is there a process?
>>
I need help, I recently got back into 3d printing with an Kobra X and I have an Anet A8 that has spent years on the basement powered off. I was looking for DIY 3d printers or projects to dismantle the Anet and reuse some of the useful parts. Someone has done a similar thing or anyone has some good ideas?
>>
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>>2991212
>Anet A8 that has spent years on the basement powered off.
>>
File: 2026.jpg (2.44 MB, 1747x2329)
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What is causing this? my printer (sovol sv06) started doing this suddenly. The layers are uneven in the Y axis and its completely crooked, other prints also turn out slanted. The only thing i noticed is the X axis belt is a little loose, but it prints fine in that axis, what else should i check?
>>
How do you tighten the z axis on a neptune max 3? I looked for it but couldn't find the model. 3d printers are evolving so fast, a 2-3 year old printer is ancient...
>>
>>2991216
Yeah I know, I didn't get that firebender 3d printer the time to go up in flames, i was thinking of scraping and take anything usefull (steppers, nuts, bolts, threaded and lineal rods).
>>
>>2991067
Want to buy a resin printer
Should I snag a Anycubic P1 or wait for the P1 Max to release (the release has been delayed since March)
>>
>>2991165
Extrusion ratio is something I do once for a printer and assume it’s right for all filaments.
>>
File: maxresdefault(10).jpg (95 KB, 1280x720)
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Don't know if this is the best place to ask, but I want to 3D print a Clone Hero controller. I can do all the electronics/microcontroller stuff, but does anyone know which design is best? There have been a lot of them over the years.
>>
>>2991276
What type of music do you usually play on clone hero, and which guitar looks the most comfortable?
>>
>>2991205
>I was actually asking about advice/guides on tuning Z-offset though, is there a process?
The actual mechanism depends on the printer. I'm surprised Orca doesn't have any test-gcode generators for it either. All I can suggest is printing a big flat single layer, or maybe a bunch of small single layer squares, and baby-stepping Z manually during the print until it looks good, Assuming you're able to do that. If not, I guess just print off a small single-layer square a bunch of times and adjust z-offset between attempts. Concentric bottom layer infill helps with sticking I find, less short little lines with low surface area.

>>2991212
The old 8-bit boards are noisy, but it might be compatible with GRBL. Lots of cool GRBL projects out there, I recomend a plotter to escape the inkjet printer cabal. Though an EDM/ECM machine or laser engraver are cool ideas too. If you don't mind making a more rigid machine, a CNC router can be handy.

>>2991219
Can you move the Y axis by pulling/pushing on it while steppers are locked? If it isn't the axis's mechanics, then it might be the electrical connections, or possibly even the stepper driver itself.
>>
>>2991286
>old 8-bit boards
>noisy
Hell hath no fury like a Centauri Carbon.
>>
File: img_1663_1.jpg (108 KB, 720x960)
108 KB JPG
>>2991280
Just standard rock or anything that comes up really. I play on my keyboard upside down so any upgrade is nice.
I'm kind of torn between two models, the one I posted previously and this one. This one has a small neck but that is easily fixed in FreeCAD. I don't really know which one to go with.
https://www.printables.com/model/227781-poly-clone-hero-controller
https://www.printables.com/model/479046-minicaster-mini-clone-heromidi-controller

I guess what you're trying to say is that it really doesn't matter, and I guess it doesn't. I think I just wanted to run it by some pros before committing to one design.
>>
>>2991286
>All I can suggest is printing a big flat single layer, or maybe a bunch of small single layer squares, and baby-stepping Z manually during the print until it looks good
ok, thanks anon.
I'll give it a go.
>>
>>2991293
I would go with the poly



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