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File: 1776592787116580.jpg (3.53 MB, 4000x4000)
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Last Thread: >>2991067
Let's Buy another Printer!™ Edition

>Your print failed? Go to:
www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting

>Calibrate your printer.
ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/
teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

If that doesn't help you solve your problems, post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [52/40/10 :detadpU tsaL]
Do your own research, but if you gotta ask; just buy whatever Bambu fits your budget.
DIY: reprap.org/wiki/
SLA: >>>/tg/3dpg

>Where can I get things to print?
www.thingiverse.com/
thangs.com/
printables.com/
grabcad.com/
www.yeggi.com/
cults3d.com/
www.stlfinder.com/
google.com/
T*legr*m

>What CAD software should I use?
Free to anyone: FreeCAD, Fusion360, Onshape, TinkerCAD,
Free to me: Autodesk Inventor, AutoCAD, Solidworks, Rhino, Solid Edge
Autistic /g/ooners: OpenSCAD, OpenJSCAD, CadQuery
Participation medal entries: PTC Creo, Solvespace
Mesh free-forming and modeling: Blender
Architects: Sketchup

>What slicer should I use?
For everyone: Cura, PrusaSlicer, BambuStudio for Bambu owners.
For enthusiasts: SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicer
For autists: Pleccer/SuperPleccer, Kiri:Moto, FullControl, IceSL

RIP Pastebin link, its 404. I just noticed.
>>
where everyone knows your shame.
>>
File: 1774687270226426.jpg (14 KB, 330x248)
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>>2992972
>tfw my project didn't make into the OP
>>
>>2992984
Aww, I try my best to include the essence of the last thread. Which one was yours?
>>
>>2992985
The PID Demonstrator. I'm very happy about the design of it all. Well, mostly happy, but I'm no designer and I cornered myself with some choices. Mechanically however it came together pretty well.
>>
>>2992972
New thread when the old one is still at page 1 is kinda silly,
>>
>>2993006
Sorry, but I am technically in the right to do it. Last thread oddly disappeared when baking on page 8. I won't make it a habit.
>>
>>2992989
Post it again once the electronics actually work (;

>>2993009
Huh, never had that before myself.
>>
>>2993007
It's not a bad printer. Watch some reviews, but my impression is pretty positive, fixes some of the issues of the original Core One. Looks like there are some less ideal features (like the shitty camera), but it's a pretty moddable printer. If you ever want to upgrade it, you can be fairly sure that Prusa will have various upgrade paths into the future. INDX being a main one. The open source firmware and permissive attitude towards hardware mods is definitely nice.

If you don't want a printer that you can modify or upgrade, and don't care about open source, you are spending a fair bit more money compared to its competitors. That goes not just for the printer itself, but any branded accessories and consumables. If you want a good modern printer without any modification at all, you'd probably be better off buying a printer that comes with those additional features, like chamber heaters and such.
>>
People whine about the BambuLabs drama but barely say anything about the new laws barreling forward that would basically make Bambufaggotry mandated by law
>>
>>2993029
i love my bambu and tell everyone irl to get one
my creality deserved death by many shotgun shells
dozens upon dozens of hours optimizing and upgrading
bambu has been flawless
be mad
>>
>>2993029
Are they actually on the House/Senate floor?
This is all that comes up at congress.gov: https://www.congress.gov/bill/119th-congress/house-resolution/922?hl=3d+printing&s=1&r=1
>>
>>2993053 (me)
Wait actually there's this that was introduced in the House.
https://www.congress.gov/bill/119th-congress/house-bill/4143
>>
>>2993056
https://www.congress.gov/bill/119th-congress/house-bill/4143/text
>Authors are
>Mr. Moskowitz
>Ms. Wasserman Schultz
>and Mr. Schneider
/pol/ was right again award.
>>
>>2993049
skill issue
>>
>>2993053
>>2993056
I'm talking about the state ones
https://www.dont-ban-3dprinters.com/
>>2993058
Everyberg
Singlestein
Timeowitz
>>
>>2993067
>Bill basses California Assembly YESTERDAY
oh shit
>>
>>2993068
yeah, exactly...
shit...
>>
Buy X2D now or wait for Anniversary sale? (I faintly want a H2C, but what I really want is a toolchanger)
>>
Can I assume ironing settings will work fine for the same filament, same brand, different colour or do I have to dial it in for colours as well?
>>
>>2993029
I doubt that anything serious will come of it, 3D printing is too widespread and I don't see how they could enforce the laws they want to pass. That said it sure would be great if politicians could stop being neurotic control freaks for 5 fucking minutes
>>2993076
if you can wait then buy when there's the sale of course, that said even with a discount the H2C will probably still be 2.5-3X the price of the X2D
>>
>>2993078
Yeah. I think the X2D is what I should get, but I do want something like the U1, but with a more contained filament system, not as noisy and not having to pay like a $200 premium to get a plastic lid on the damn thing.
>>
>>2993079
>not having to pay like a $200 premium to get a plastic lid on the damn thing
lmao I just looked it up and that's really the case (well only $150 if you preorder now!)
imho your main questions to choose between the two should be whether you mind the bowden extrusion on the second nozzle, and how often you'll use 3 or 4 colors/materials in a print over just 2
>>
>>2993079
Just do the ikea plastic tub lid, you can stack two tubs to get something with impressive thermal insulation.
>>
Best "tough" cheap pla? Polymaker pla pro is great but I wouldn't be mad at spending less. Needs to stay at the same quality/print ease otherwise I would rather just spend more. Overture super pla + maybe? Will also be picking up in bulk since I've been burning through filament lately, so any bulk offers from the manufacturer are a huge plus.
>>
>>2993082
never had an issue with Sunlu's PLA+ (not the 2.0, never tried that one), last time I bought 3kg of it for 36€ iirc but their website is weird and sometimes the MOQ is 6kg
>>
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>>2993082
best pla all around is just regular pla.
I like sunlu's pla 3kg rolls.
>>
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>>2993010
>once the electronics actually work
>>
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>>
>>2992989
I don't know what any of that means so that's probably why I didn't add it. Also you still havent posted a picture so I still dont know what I missed.
>>
>>2993083
>>2993105
Thanks guys, I'll order some sunlu filament and see what I think.
>>
>>2993111
shut up and take my money
>>
File: 1779475348479581.jpg (2.85 MB, 6936x9248)
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>>2993115
This stupid thing. Entirely 3D printed except for the knobs, that I had a small stock of.
>>
Looking into a vertical storage system for my hobby table. I'm stuck between regular pegboard, Ikea skadis, and opengrid.

Any advice/pros and cons? What did you go with?
>>
>>2993134
oh wow, I missed that completely. Thanks for the heads up. Now that its in the thread its more likely to make it in the next one.
>>
>>2993144
pegboard is widely accessible and you can print fixtures but it's better for hanging stuff like tools or a bag organizer (I used to have a wall of backpacks and fannypacks in pegboard) and the big annoyance is if you don't lock the clips they knock out easily.

Gridfinity looks good and there seems to be a skadis based system out there (someone selling on my local cl but I haven't seen it in the wild. There is also multigrid. I don't like the looks of open grid, multi or gridfinity seems best although I think one is locked behind patreon walls. And then do you want to spend the time and money producing all of them? And can your printer handle the quality to make shit actually fit? I always struggle with other people's designs so idk.
>>
>>2993105
high speed pla isn't regular pla, it's sunlu's name for their pls+

PLA+ is the easiest filament to print with tho
>>
>>2993111
suprised we have 0 leaks on this one, we had leaks left and right fro the x2d
>>
>>2993134
hey bitch, those are rubber bands instead of 3d printed TPU belts. delete your post
>>
>>2993111
Larger bedslinger? I have no opinions on this.

>>2993166
TPU works for toothed belts, but it’s not high enough friction for a flat/square belt. To get friction it needs to be under tension, but TPU creeps badly.
>>
>>2993168
>TPU works for toothed belts, but it’s not high enough friction for a flat/square belt. To get friction it needs to be under tension, but TPU creeps badly.
I've literally done it and have been running belts that are fine since 2021

all friction belts need tension, you don't even know how your own car works, are you a bot?
>>
>>2993172
>all friction belts need tension
Yeah, and TPU creeps. But I guess it creeps under bending loads, not as much under tensile loads.
>>
File: CFlip.jpg (78 KB, 1602x790)
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This is the very first thing I actually tried to make from scratch. I keep getting a constraint flip in FreeCAD. Hopefully someone can help me out here. Let me over-explain my process here.

I'm making a little organizer for a board game that I can resize. Just 4 bins divided by a 1.5mm barrier between them. What you're looking at here is the pocket I'm carving. For the inner walls I have the edge of the pocket coming in 0.75mm, then I polar pattern the sketch around the center point of the main body 4 times to make 4 pockets. When I resize the width, the constraint for the inside wall of the pocket flips to the other side of my origin line here, pic related. It looks like I've got the outside walls working, but the line for the inside walls keeps flipping to the other side. I've been googling around and the solution is 'tie the dimension to the variable'. Okay, great. Worked for the outside walls. I want the inside walls to be 1.5mm, any formula I put in there is going to scale the size of the inner wall. This dimension should always be 0.75mm in from the center line. How the fug do I get that set so it doesn't try to flip the constraint? Is the process I'm going through here just flawed from the start? I feel like there is a simple solution staring me in the face but I'll be damned if I can see it since this is my first dive into the program.
>>
>>2992972
how do you guys connect filaments? is there a sure fire way to join filaments on the cheap? I saw the method using a silicone tube and a soldering iron and did that, not to long ago that first joint appeared and i was able to watch it and it broke in the print head. The print head started clicking but i was able to push the filament and the feed motor got it and it kept going. I may have over heated it? the joint wasn't a big mess but it wasn't like brand new smooth
>>
>>2993199
Not FreeCad, but I often draw diagonal construction lines from the outer corners to the inner corners, and specify them being right angle/parallel to one another.

>>2993206
Why would you want to do that? To save the few metres of filament left on the spool? Or for multi-colour bullshit? If the former, just use the remnant filament for little useful things like organisation boxes. If the latter, use pauses instead, and if that's too inconvenient use something like an MMU.
>>
>>2993199 That's strange, anon
Are you sure it's a constraint and not a measurement ?
Also is it a horizontal distance constraint ?
>>
>>2993078
>I doubt that anything serious will come of it, 3D printing is too widespread and I don't see how they could enforce the laws they want to pass.
Maybe, but the california one already passed committee, and the New York one is still in the budget AFAIK. I wouldn't underestimate it.
>>
>>2993199
seems that the issue is that FreeCAD doesn't use signed constraints so it doesn't really know what side of the line that point should be on, you could make a little 0.75mm construction square with the bottom right vertex in the center and then constrain your pocket square to the top left vertex.
Also personally I'd just sketch all 4 squares with the appropriate constraints but from what I understand it's bad CAD practice?
And a multi-transform with two linear patterns should give you direct control on the distance between the pockets, but if only need a 2x2 a polar pattern is probably a cleaner approach
>>2993228
that's crazy, are 3D printed gun parts even an actual problem in the US? Can't you just easily scrape off the serial number from a normal gun or create a make-shift gun with normal tools anyway?
>>
>>2993232
>Also personally I'd just sketch all 4 squares with the appropriate constraints but from what I understand it's bad CAD practice?
>bad practice
It is.
Except with FreeCAD it is the most reliable way to get things done, SPECIALLY (and I cannot stress this enough) if you're using some of their "weaker tools", aka anything that uses booleans (or implicit booleans).
>>
>>2993232
I would create a symmetry against the vertical axis to create the second square then another symmetry to create the 3rd and 4th, put dimension constraints on the 1st square then put symmetry constraint on the rest.
>seems that the issue is that FreeCAD doesn't use signed constraints
it should, there's a direction for the dimension constraint and it can be -1, 0 (not applicable) or 1
>>
File: file.png (25 KB, 929x844)
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>>2993235
Something like this
>>
>>2993232
>that's crazy, are 3D printed gun parts even an actual problem in the US? Can't you just easily scrape off the serial number from a normal gun or create a make-shift gun with normal tools anyway?
Not really, but Luigi shot the guy with a partially 3D printed gun, and it seems like Western govts are in a mad scramble to regulate personal tech. Also, these states are run by people who absolutely hate the 2nd amendment and personal gun ownership.
>>
>>2993234
but why is it bad, is it just because of scalability or is there some other reason? If you constrain the squares properly everything should still be able to change the variables later, and pocketing one "complex" sketch seems less intensive computationally than making an array with a pocket
>>2993235
>it should
I have no idea why it doesn't, I've also had issues with things jumping around after changing a dimension
>>2993237
I hate politicians so much, completely detached from the reality of their country and taking big decisions about shit they know squat about just to push their agendas. Plenty of people live off 3D printing nowadays or use it heavily, also they want to go against CNC too apparently? What's next, needing a licence to buy a nail gun?
>>
>>2993238
>Plenty of people live off 3D printing nowadays or use it heavily
They don't care about the common people
>What's next, needing a licence to buy a nail gun?
Don't give them ideas...
>>
UPDATE: New York passed their ban!
>>
>>2993246
>New York Gov. Kathy Hochul signed into law on May 27 a requirement for 3D printers sold in the state to have technology preventing them from printing guns.

This is utterly retarded.
>>
>>2993249
It's retarded, but they are still pushing it, it's still a threat to the 3D printing community
>>
>>2993249
>technology preventing them from printing guns
such as?
>>
>>2993237
>ese states are run by people who absolutely hate the 2nd amendment and personal gun ownership
>>2993238
>I hate politicians so much
>>2993241
>They don't care about the common people
It will be the CEO class that are forcing the politicians to crack down on this.
They're all afraid of being the next one to get Luigi'd.
>>
>>2993111
>>2993165
https://old.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1tqs6d7/a2l_info_for_you_all/
>>2993259
you can whack a bloke on the street like Luigi did with just about anything, even a hammer or a rock, and if someone really wants to 3D print a gun he could just build his own printer and use it offline even with the bans...
>>
>>2993263
>you can whack a bloke on the street like Luigi did with just about anything, even a hammer or a rock, and if someone really wants to 3D print a gun he could just build his own printer and use it offline even with the bans...
I was describing the motivation of the wealthy in having their political minions do this.
I wasn't describing the rationality of the action.

A hammer or a rock are easily handled by a bodyguard too, a gun is a very different threat obviously.
>>
>>2993265
>I was describing the motivation of the wealthy in having their political minions do this.
I know, I'm just saying that it's a retarded motivation. At the end of the day it's just an excuse to impose yet another way to control people, maybe there's something else behind this too but I doubt that any CEO or politician is genuinely afraid of an alleged "ghost gun epidemic"
>>
>>2993271
>I doubt that any CEO or politician is genuinely afraid of an alleged "ghost gun epidemic"
I think that between Abe and the United Healthcare cunt, the elites are pretty concerned about the direction this is going.
3d printing is absolutely the easiest way to make a gun. You don't need to tell me about an 80% parts kit and a jig to machine a lower receiver but 3d printing makes it way more accessible for people who don't know shit about metal working.
>>
>>2993275
even then anyone with malicious intent will easily get his hands on an old printer devoid of "gun preventing technology" or whatever, so who is this ban gonna stop, some teen dumb enough to try and print a gun on his unmodified A1 mini?
>>
>>2993246
And nothing may come of it, it'll take a few years for the task force assembled to figure out how they can enforce it, and there's a good chance they might not find a feasible way.
>>
>>2993284
Rather, it'll be selective enforcement. Niggers pushing old ladies into a coming train? That's a mental health crisis, should be let out on personal recognizance.
Meanwhile, someone that made a facebook post that doesn't jive with the cabal is now a terrorist because they have an old anet a8 in the garage.
>>
>>2993275
The easiest way to print a gun is to go to the hardware store and buy a pipe a cap and a nail.


It's bad, but it's entirely performative virtue signalling. Did you know californoa banned 10+ round magazines twice? Whole separate laws and the legislature was super proud of themselves both times.
>>
>>2993271
what is the deal with japanese and face diapers?
>>
>>2993343
What is the deal with you and face masks?
>>
>>2993343
They're the OGs. They have been doing it for like 40 years but just the sick person wears it.
>>
File: file.png (69 KB, 666x736)
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a knob for the telescope mount NEQ5, threaded insert M4 will go into the hole on the side. Need some because the original ones are too thick and the ones I got have prolongations but they interfere with each other in some positions of the telescope mount. Pretty sure this already exists but hey, I like doing that
>>
File: file.png (183 KB, 600x600)
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>>2993366
picrel, the mount
>>
>>2993352
>They're the OGs
It's fairly common throughout Asia, even mainland China does it.
At least the urban Chinese do.
>>
I have an old spare creality 42-40 stepper motor from an old printer I threw away. Do they sell those little controllers with a knob that let you manually operate it? Want to fuck around with it a bit. I see some controllers but I'm not sure if they are compatible with this specific stepper motor
>>
>>2993366
>>2993368
I don’t know what that is, but it looks neat. Any leads on good value diy astronomy projects? I’ve obtained the parts to make an equatorial mount for my camera, I plan on 3D printing a bunch of brackets to hold it together. It will use a 0.9 degree Nema-23 directly driving the platform, with a precision analog magnetic encoder.

>>2993399
It’s a Nema-17, anything capable of driving a Nema-17 should work. I’d probably use an arduino and a TMC2209 or A4988 or whatever.
>>
>>2993134
Looks pretty good. As a designer I'd say the biggest visual improvements you could make is using a less square-y font. Also a bit more spacing between the different elements would look good. Maybe scale down some of the big text elements. Don't sweat it though, you've done a pretty good job anon. I like the roundness of the borders. Any chance you could add a fillet between the top face and the bottom face? Just throwing ideas.
>>
File: 1761385978723.jpg (1.29 MB, 2880x2880)
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Old one but never posted, so here it is: a 3d printed vent with a 3d printed bug net. Glued it together. Had to print it because my AC tubes were installed this way, and I was tired of looking at an old broken vent
>>
>>2993263
honestly sorta dissapointing, for something labeled 2, theres nothing innovative new here
>>
>>2993376
after a trip to Japan I suspect that part of the reason why masks are so popular there is that their women tend to have an ugly lower face so they often look markedly prettier with a mask on. I didn't see as many of them in China, but the chinese can be kinda nasty and they have no concept of personal space so I see why someone sensitive would wear one there
>>2993411
looks way nicer now, good job
>>2993404
the OpenAstroTech projects look interesting, but I'm an astronomy noob so take this with a grain of salt
https://wiki.openastrotech.com/
>>
>>2993404
>Any leads on good value diy astronomy projects?
I would say everything that doesn't need precision :
- finder scope / laser / red dot holder, adapter
- dew shield
- batinov mask (to have a precise focus)
- eye piece supports
- cable management
for what I can think of, everything that makes your life easier when observing at night
>>
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And the “first INDX clone” award goes to:
https://youtu.be/Jx5lRca5OoA
Creality’s Clit-Tech!

Also features software support for multiple nozzle sizes in a single print, and a push+pull motor system that makes TPU feeding more reliable.
>>
>>2993411
>a 3d printed vent with a 3d printed bug net
If you get mosquitoes then you'll want a proper gauze mesh over the back too.
You could tape over the hole with the tubes and plug that with construction foam too, then when it's dry, remove the tape and cut the foam flat and maybe paint it.
It would look even better and not leave a gap.
Alternatively, some sort of TPU plug, let the inherent creep mould the TPU to fit the tubes over time.
>>
>>2993433
Some people will invent the craziest reasons for why a sick person would avoid infecting other people.
>>
>>2993440
Weird they got a canadian AI Voice
>>
>>2993447
japs must be really feeble if at any moment every other person is sick and contagious even outside of flu season
>>
>>2993440
I’d buy it if it’s reliable, has open firmware, and won’t shit the bed when you crank the chamber temp up above 60C with a dedicated chamber heater.
Not holding my breath, I’d probably sooner end up buying their system as parts and bolting it to a Prusa or a Voron.
>>
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>>2993410
Thanks anon. The font I genuinely liked for the retro vibe, I tried to go for the '60s mainframe terminal kind of design. More importantly that kind of font is easier to print thanks to the lack of sharp corners and consistent thickness, leading to less gaps.
>fillet between the top face and the bottom face
I wish, but I needed to print the panels face down: on a textured PEI plate the deposition lines blemd together making it look uniform. You need get really close to see it's actually a 3D print.
>>
>>2993450
Kind of the opposite actually, it's a very healthy population with extreme longevity and remaining quite spry into old age.
I suppose it's because they take their health seriously.

Also, colds are more or less year round and it's mostly for that rather than flu. You stay home with the flu.
>>
>>2993462
Thats a myth thats perpetuated by pension fraud.
>>
>>2993467
Some of the places in Japan that are hotspots of longevity have been very well studied.
Look up Ogimi some time.
Some of it is diet but a lot of it is cultural too.
For one thing, they tend to work until they die, not necessarily for a wage but at least gardening and community stuff.

Their diet is very diverse with meals typically containing over thirty different plant and animal ingredients.
There's a cultural tendency to reject eating until full and to stop while still slightly hungry.
A bunch of other stuff go into it too.
>>
>>2993471
>Their diet is very diverse with meals typically containing over thirty different plant and animal ingredients.
>>
>>2993440
I would be excited if it wasn't for my awful experience with their latest models, so fuck them.
>>
>>2993411
It would be better to do the first layer black and the rest white so the net hides.
>>
>>2993411
nice you can (probably depending on slicer) put both pieces on the bed and choose no top and bottom layers for the screen, using infill to produce, and then assemble in slicer and print as one piece.
>>
>>2993284
>>2993307
the first step to a police state is everyone is guilty of something. you guys really missed the point of 1984
>>
>>2993316
colorado which has the most hard core gun group in the nation (RMGO) banned high cap magazines like 10 years ago because the pussies at the NRA don't have any qualms about trading rights for political power.
>>
>>2993452
we both know it wont be reliable
>>
>>2993516
I wonder if they’ll sell it as a standalone system?
>>
>>2993483
Which one are you referring to?
I got their K1C and so far I am very happy with it.
>>
>>2993503
>>2993501
>>2993446
All great ideas anons thank you for the input. I'll put them to use in my next version

>>2993433
Thanks fren
>>
>>2993586
K1C 2025 with their new CFS-C.
>>
>>2993475
baachan looks great for her age and I'd die to have meals like that served to me regularly. shit in the US you're likely to wind up with a hucow aunt titted fatty eating government cheese in a wheelchair who can't boil a hotdog to save her life. I would go asian any day over that.
>>
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This has been a tremendously ass project.

>have Ender 3 Neo
>wanna upgrade
>read about Duender
>go on FB marketplace and get another E3N for spare change
>also want insulated enclosure
>source fire-resistant sauna insulation
>build the fucking box as air-tight and fire-safe as I can
>assemble duender frame
>extend every single wire and cable from the printer so I can move the electronics outside of the chamber
>reuse secondary MCU and heat bed as a chamber heater

At least it gets somewhat toasty. It's sitting at 65C after an hour of passive heating without extruder heating or movement. Broke the drive belts (cheap chinkshit) so waiting for some proper Gates belts before I can print anything.
>>
>>2993630
That's beautiful mate. Too bad about the drive belts though, was that from the heat or what?
>>
>>2993630
If you aren’t already, I’d recommend klipperising that printer. I believe klipper now has the ability to compensate for various thermal expansions.

Any reason you went for duender instead of an e3ng?
>>
>>2993697
>Too bad about the drive belts though, was that from the heat or what?
NTA: nobody ever told me just how tight a drive belt is supposed to be.
Anycubic were surprisingly cool about it and sent me new ones but even they couldn't actually define "tight enough".
>>
>>2993713
Engineer here. Tight enough means jack shit obviously, but that's your bog standard recommendation because fuck you I guess. Proper belt tensioning is constrained by two parameters: the strength of the belt and the maximum radial force the stepper shaft can handle, so you pick the lower of the two and remove another 10% for good measure. The proper tensioning value is easy enough to figure out, since it's just a couple of TDS away, but the real kicker is measuring it: it's not that easy. The quick and dirty way is taking a known length, plucking it, and using a spectrum analyzer app to measure its resonance frequency and from that you derive the tension, but from experience that method sucks balls. Alternatively you can print a gizmo that will indicate the right tension for your belts, but it needs a specific piece of spring steel wire that is kind of unsourceable, a specific piano wire IIRC. In the end the juice is not worth the squeeze. Just tighten it enough to prevent low frequency resonance, while keeping an eye on your motors to check if they're overstressed.
>>
>>2993748
>Just tighten it enough to prevent low frequency resonance, while keeping an eye on your motors to check if they're overstressed.
So I need a spectrum analyzer app to check resonance and how do I tell if the stepper motors are whining?
When they're literally whining?
>>
>>2993757
>how do I tell if the stepper motors are whining?
They will get hotter

On my classic ender 3 i've tightened the belts by hand without using levers or other implements, they should be tight but not enough to make noise like a guitar string when plucked
>>
>>2993748
>>2993757
Tight enough = Taut and a bit more to make it tight enough
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>>2993766
>they should be tight but not enough to make noise like a guitar string when plucked
I think that's how I snapped them, they were tight enough that they didn't move much when I plucked them.

>>2993769
>Tight enough = Taut and a bit more to make it tight enough
The replacements got that sort of treatment. I at least knew at that point how much was definitely too much.

I'm not >>2993630 to be clear.
>>
>>2993757
Sorry I had to specify: low frequency resonance according to the input shaper. The calibration will measure the frequency response of the tool head (and the bed for a bedslinger), a belt not tight enough will show as a shitty response with lots of resonance.
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>>2993697
>was that from the heat or what?
Too high accel and too loose belts made the tooth gear grind into the belt. My fault for not checking settings and being too cheap with the first set of belts.

>>2993703
>I’d recommend klipperising that printer
It's running Klipper. Using both MCU's, one for the printer itself and one for managing the extra heat bed.

>Any reason you went for duender instead of an e3ng?
It was the project I came across and I liked the idea of reusing parts.
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Shit, that's close, I hope the rest of the structure will be sturdy enough
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>>2993838
what is this layer wizardry? and can you point out to a laymen what would be close? Basically what am I supposed to be looking at?
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>>2993839
This is the preview in Cura
teal is support red outer wall, green inner wall, orange filling yellow horizontal surface, white is "start" of the layer on a printing point of view.
you see the hexagon top left ? There's a little white dot with the feature on it's right, there's only one layer between the hexagon and the rectangular hole right of it, and that's way too few.
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>>2993838
>>2993839
By the way this is an adapter for a brass catcher for my Ruger Mk IV pistol, on the left, picatinny rail, on the right a dovetail to affix the brass catcher
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>>2993843
The aforementioned brass catcher
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>>2993842
>there's only one layer between the hexagon and the rectangular hole right of it
nta, my guess is that a hex nut will go into the hexagon? If that's the case and you want the wall to be thicker, couldn't you just, I don't know, turn the hexagon a couple degrees?
>>
>>2993847
>I don't know, turn the hexagon a couple degrees?
Thank you anon, i was blindsided by the problem, if the "flat" of the nut is parallel to the surface of the feature there will be more material. Thank you a lot.

i messed up the part anyway, hole was supposed to be for M5 but I made it 4mm in diameter for whatever reason, so back to the drawing table. I'll put a bit more tolerance for the dovetail slot too, it could slide in but with a lot of work on both parts.
>>
>>2993748
real engineers do it by feel. I remember in college we had to interview graduates who were doing engineering, we got a pre-drone RC helicopter manufacturer. RC heli's were notoriously expensive and extremely fragile, their business model was to make big cheap RC helis you could smash into a bridge pilon and only be out a hundred dollars in "consumable" parts. in any case our group asked how they make sure like the rotor doesn't fly apart, how do they calculate the stresses. the guy laughed and said we just pin one end of a rotor to the roof beam and have the fattest guy in the shop hang on it. we figure if it holds, it will be fine in production.
>>
>>2993843
>>2993845
That's pretty cool.
I always wanted to larp as the gunsmith in Day of the Jackal and make accessories for untraceable assassinations.
>>
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A bit of filling and it goes in smoothly. There's no recoil so no need to fix it but I can always add a knob on the top that screws into the male dovetail
>>2993885
Thank you anon,
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>>2993888
Easy to remove to put an empty chamber flag in the chamber at the range.
Now I can go plinking and not waste 10 min to clean the brass at the range with their 100yo broom.
>>
>>2993865
A better answer would have been that they spin it up to twice the service RPM and see if it explodes.
>>
>>2993885
you can take a gunsmithing course. I know two different people who took the full course bought all the equipment and never did a fucking thing so ymmv
>>
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couldn't sleep did this
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>>2993971
nice, that metal support looks precarious
>>
>>2993972
yeah it's tippy and jumps off the sill when you remove the appliance, I was sick of getting pissed about it, lol.
>>
>>2993948
>I know two different people who took the full course bought all the equipment and never did a fucking thing
That would totally be me.
>>
>>2993971
Another solution would be to print a weighted base that the stand fits into, something you could insert some lead washers/sinkers/curtain weights into. Possibly even as a pause while printing.
>>
>>2993997
the clearance between the spinny bit and the top plane of the base circle is very thin. one big 55mm washer would probably work with a thin skin, otherwise you'd have to stack things around the rim to avoid interference but a nice big bearing race could work well too. as a bonus I wouldn't have had to measure the damn window sill molding.
>>
>>2993999
Terminology:
>the base circle is the "foot"
>The vertical beam is the "spine"

Start with a cylinder that is slightly wider than the foot's diameter, maybe 1cm for 5mm clearance on each side. It should be quite a bit taller, maybe an inch or so.
Subtract a circle the height and diameter of the foot from the top of the cylinder, this is where the foot rests.
Add little chamfered clips to three cardinal points around the circle, these will snap over the foot when it's inserted and hold it securely.
Add a vertical outcrop to brace the stand's spine so that it gets a bit of extra support and design a clip that snugly holds the spine in place

You could make the cylinder two pieces that unscrew to hold weights in a compartment underneath the foot, or you could insert the weights during a printing pause if you prefer.
>>
Why is Prusaslicer retarded? It thinks the first flat layer on top of support material is solid infill and not a fucking bridge. Likewise there's zero interface layers between the top of an object and new support material printed on top if it. Pisses me off because I have to slow down the entire print job by a fucking day to make it not shit itself.
>>
>>2994001
I use Orcaslicer
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>>2994001
>literal bambu propaganda
Lmao, it's wild how desperate they are.
>>
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>>2994006
Buddy I don't own a Bambu anything. THIS, the FIRST LAYER on top of supports, should NOT be solid fucking infill speed.
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>>2993889
very cool at the place i go too we have to sweep up I made a dust deflector but i think i might take your idea and make more of a chute so the cases go downward
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>>2994007
What the actual fuck, anon?
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>>2994010
I'm printing shit.
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>>2992972
>>What CAD software should I use?
Would consider to add Designspark.
>>
>>2994007
Set your contact Z distance to something other than zero.
>>
>>2992972
I just saw a comment on another site about Bambu being in "damage control mode". What have I missed? Is there a problem with the H2D?
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>>2994029
freetards foam at the mouth with anything related to bambu. I don't know all the tech specifics, but I believe it boils down to orcaslicer spoofing a network plugin(?) so that it could send prints over bambu's cloud network. Bambu said no, somehow this is a big story.
>>
>>2994036
Thanks. Sigh. On my X1C I just keep it offline and use the microSD card slot.
>>
>>2994036
>what do you mean you aren't fine with this chinknese hardware manufacturer building their software stack on top of open source GPL code, closing it down and trying to control how you use the machine you bought and pay for? They're a big corporation, they don't need to obey licensing laws, won't you please think of their shareholders?
>>
>>2994042
Do you expect every server using linux to be open to the internet? Get a job freenigger
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>>2994045
It was bambu who made their server wide open to the internet, not me.
>>
>>2994045
Every program built on copyleft licenses is required to also be open. Not doing so is a violation of the license terms. Every server that uses Linux uses open source code. This is not the same thing as being insecure.
>>
why do freetards believe they are entitled to use other people's hardware? Sounds like commie shit to me.
>>
Why do bambu believe they're entitled to control other people's hardware? They sold it, it's no longer theirs. Sounds like commie shit to me.
>>
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>>2994025
It needs to be zero because I'm printing with PETG using PLA supports because that's the only way this fucking abomination of a model is getting printed. The dude who made it is an asshole.

You may notice the little studs at the bottom and the boxes on the build plate. That's the only way the little nubs have ANY shot of actually sticking. This fucking thing takes THREE DAYS to print.
>>
>>2994052
what the heck is that thing
>>
what the fuck is the point of vacuum sealing filament if the fucking shit has moisture in it right out of the package?
>>
>>2994053
This: https://www.instructables.com/A-fully-3D-printable-GlaDOS-Robotic-ceiling-arm-la/
>>
>>2994055
Air, as it turns out, has water in it.
>>
>>2994007
>>2994052
>>2994056
Motherfucker, the XL just failed a day and a half into the process because of the fucking faulty cables they shipped with the original things. I'm so fucking pissed right now...
>>
>>2994049
>you can still use lan mode
>you can still use a microsd
What control? You just can't use their servers with another slicer. We both know you don't own one, why are you so pressed?
>>
>>2994024
Interesting looking stuff. A bit limited at the free tier though (can't import 3D scanned meshes, can't import or export STEPs), and the proprietary nature gives them the ability to change their terms of service at any time and lock you out of your files. But no worse than Fusion 360, and I'd probably trust RS more than Autodesk or Adobe or Microsoft.

>>2994061
>You just can't use their servers with another slicer
They didn't even prevent you from being able to do this. The linux BambuSlicer has no software authentication method, so you just copy that GPL licensed code that connects to their server and it will still work. If they wanted to prevent people from using their cloud server, they'd publish the source code for their server-side network plugin (as they are legally required to via the GPL) and bambu printer owners could use that with a different slicer and a different server. Alternatively, if they stop the network plugin from being an integral part of their slicer by compartmentalising it (hence likely allowing other network plugins in bambuslicer forks), it would no longer fall under the GPL licensing terms so they could keep that code closed source and make it more secure.
They just can't have their cake and eat it. They're the ones who chose to fork GPL-licensed code.
>>
>>2994062
>AHHHHHH THEY DIDNT FOLLOW DA RULEZ!
>THE OUTCOME WOULD HAVE BEEN EXACTLY THE SAME BUT MUH CODE I POSTED ON THE INTERNET FOR FREE WAS USED AND THEY DIDNT FOLLOW DA RULEZZZZZ!
Incredibly gay. I think I'll buy another bambu labs printer.
>>
>>2994063
I too believe there should be no repercussions for large companies violating contract law.
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>>2994064
Thank God you can go DIY yourself a law degree and go pursue this whole case on your own without telling us about it.
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>>2994056
anon, the instructables maker printed that on a clapped out, borrowed printer from 16 years ago, 13 years ago.
you're struggling to do the same on modern tech.

look at his photo, literal CAVEMAN supports, single material, the fucking print quality is dogshit, AND LOOK AT THAT STRINGING

literally just jam it in cura, send it, body fill and sand it.
>>
>>2994061
I dont trust anything but my computers to connect to my network, and even they are on thin fucking ice. fuck your cloud servers while we're a it.
>>
>>2994067
siiiiiick, just use a microsd then
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>>2994066
>body fill and sand it
There in lies the problem anon. I have a wicked neurological tremor. Think Michael J Fox levels of my hands being fucking useless. Sanding? Not happening. Painting? Fucking impossible. What I print, I print in the color it's going to be. That's why I threw down the big money on a 5 head printer. The thing it prints is the thing I put up.
>>
>>2994071
>it's the slicer's fault
>It's the client's fault
>it's the model's fault
>it's the printer's fault
>it's some condition's fault
Learn to slice or fuck off. This whole chain is some angry redditor shit.
>inb4
What the hell are manual supports for starters, or even organic + angles >>2994052 >>2994007 are some time wasting joke. No wonder you got lowkey mocked for it.
>>
>>2994072
Jesus christ dude. Yes, it's the slicer's fault when it uses types that don't match what it should be using. Yes, the model is a pain in the ass. Yes, I am dealing with faulty hardware, they're sending me new cables because of it. Manual supports wouldn't help because I'm already having it support pretty much everything, and even then I do actually have them. Organic would make things worse because I need the stability of being able to attach to existing supports to build the new supports on top of the PETG surfaces. I've been doing this for a long time and I'm pretty good at it, but even then I occasionally run into some bullshit I never expected. Hell, the boxes and rods I added here >>2994052 are explicitly because I knew there was no way in hell those nubs were going to stay in place, and before the printer failed they worked perfectly. But most of all, if you think I'm an idiot, you can hide my posts. Otherwise fuck off faggot, I'm going nowhere.
>>
>>2994061
>you can still use lan mode
wait if I put my printer in lan mode I can keep using orcaslicer through my network rather thank moving the sd card back and forth? Because if so I'm gonna set it up as soon as I get home
>>
>>2994071
I would expect a tremor to be helpful for sanding.
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>>2994073
Look at this >>2994052 >>2994007. What would you say if you saw these images by a third person? You're not good at this.
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>>2994063
I will proceed to not follow "the rules" and use their cloud servers with 3rd party software. Bambu's fault for making it trivial to access.

>>2994007
It should be bottom layer speed I guess? Might be able to edit the g-code manually and change the speed of that section. Maybe if you add a trivially small support gap (e.g. 0.01mm) you could change what type it uses, but I doubt it. Either way I'd put an error report on the github.

I'd also look into splitting the model to make it easier to print, with alignment holes so you can slot it together with pins. While on the topic of editing the model, making the underside of those pins slightly conical would make it print all perimeters for the parts of the model in contact with the support interface.

If your print artefacts are minimal and the prints come out pretty isotropically, you could also prop the whole print up on 45 degrees with liberal use of tree supports. It's a meme technique, but it might do the trick. Maybe you'd still add manual support forms and fins to critical areas.
>>
>>2994052
>It needs to be zero because I'm printing with PETG using PLA supports
Then it's not bridging or doing anything special extrusion wise. It's physically printing directly on top. What do you want if not the parameters you've set for perimeters and infill?
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>>2994083
His problem I believe is that it's using the high-speed solid-infill profile for that part, but because it's printing on top of PLA without as much adhesion as if it were printing atop more PETG, that's too fast and it doesn't lay down properly. For the same reason that the first layer of a print is done slowly, the layer atop a different material support interface should probably be artificially slowed also. I've heard others complain about the poor adhesion of support filaments causing print failures, but that might have been in the context of soluble supports.
>>
>>2994062
>I'd probably trust RS more than Autodesk or Adobe or Microsoft.
This is easy because they are the worst. Designspark is a subset of Spaceclaim from Allied. Conceptual the best CAD i ever worked with and i started in DOS times wit Acad.exe. Only one i risk closed source (and as a German a US product) because of it's pretty good work flow. Me get used to it and at least 3 times faster than in the usual ADSK ergonomy hell of Fusion (wich i have a full license) et al.
>>
>Where can I get things to print?
This site looks interesting 3dprintable.xyz
Free to generate signet rings for jewelry printing.
>>
>>2994091
>Where can I get things to print?
Don't people design the things they want to print then print them ?
I mean you want something, can(t find it or it's too expensive, it doesn't suit exactly your situation, you design the thing and then print it.
Downloading things that other people made looks like printing holidays photos from another family
>>
Are custom made diy 3d printers still around, or did bambufag's packaging of open source designed stuff into a commercial product finally kill them off for good? It was so fun trying to get a 3d printer made out of hardware store threaded rods print anything at all. It's crazy that people have been printing function submachine guns with hobby grade 3d printers lately.
>>
>>2994099
it seems to me that most people that make custom printers use a voron design as a base and tweak things according to their needs, making a printer fully from scratch must be pretty rare nowadays
>>
>>2994076
Yes, you turn on lan mode from your printer and get the code/ip. Go to Orca slicer and put in that info to pair them.
>>
>>2994099
seen some in the edm, subtractive machining niche.
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>>2994092
He’s answering the question in the OP with another source. It’s less “I have a printer and I don’t know what to print” and more “I need to print something specific but I can’t CAD enough to design it myself”. In the case of a jeweller SLA printing moulds or blanks for silver casting, an online ring generator might be quite useful.

>>2994099
The proliferation of 3D printers made lots of components easier to get that weren’t an option in the mendel days. Online shipping improvements helped too.
And it’s now more cost effective to buy a printer than make a printer at almost any price-point, at least all the ones under 600USD, so the only sensible reason someone would build a printer is that they’re after superior specs or a specific niche. Maybe an ultra hot heated chamber, or an IDEX, or a pellet extruder, or an extremely tiltable bed for non-planar printing, or the ability to print 20A TPU, there’s still lots of valid reasons to make a custom printer. Or at least to modify a sufficiently open printer.
>>
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How come my reference geometry is showing up in my sketch? It's not allowing me to remove it, and I can't pad with it there.
>>
>>2994169
did you remember to set the reference as construction? On my installation if you pull reference geometry into a sketch by default it won't be construction (I think you can change this in the settings) so the lines have a different color but they are not dashed. If you toggle the construction button before selecting the sketcher external tool then it should automatically make construction lines
>>2994114
and here I thought that the updates forced you to use the sd card with any external slicer, not nearly as bad as I thought then on a practical standpoint
>>
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Getting ready to print ASA for the first time. Bambu X1C. So far:

1. bought a fan, printed a vent duct coupler, going to sticky-tape the fan to the back of the printer over the exhaust vent to suck air out and blow it out my bedroom window.

2. bought one of those ceramic heating things and a temperature controller to stick inside the X1C enclosure right next to where the bed moves up and down. Plan to set them to 80C.

Should I tape up the X1C enclosure so that air can only enter through the bottom edge of the front door, or is that not really necessary?

I've read mixed comments on whether to use gluestick on the PEI bed or just use the plain PEI bed. Planning on trying just the PEI bed first. Is this viable?

Am I missing anything else that I need to do?
>>
>>2994178
I dont think printing ASA is that big of a deal, just open a window. Also, fuck glue sticks get on the unscented hairspray train. Spray that PEI plate really quick wherever your print came up and put it back in there.
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>>2994178
>exhaust fan
If you're trying to preserve chamber temperature, you may want the ability to turn the fan speed down. Also to prevent leakage, you're better off having the fan at the window, sucking down the tube, as opposed to at the printer, blowing down the tube and potentially out any gaps.
>80C
Do you intend to regulate the chamber temperature to a homogeneous 80C, or just the output airstream? If the former, check the maximum operating temperature of printer components. Fans especially are known for not liking more than 60-70C, and components in your toolhead board might protest also. Stepper motors and drivers will run hotter than that still as they produce significant internal heat, so extra heat-sinking might be required, if not additional active cooling. Most people settle for 50-60C for ABS/ASA printing, I'd try that first to see what kind of warping you get, if any. If the latter, you're better off regulating the internal temperature properly. Your exhaust duct also needs to be able to handle the heat of the air, now there's a chicken and egg situation for you.
>tape
If you want to minimise fume leakage, the best way is to ensure there's negative pressure everywhere fumes are present. To ease the burden on your fans and on your chamber heating, taping up gaps may well help with this.
>PEI
Textured PEI shouldn't be damaged by the printing, while smooth PEI is more delicate and I'd only use it for PLA. I see many people using the Bambu engineering plate with glue, but if it's not a warp-prone model (i.e. it's flat and has round corners) I'd try without glue.
>>
>>2994180
what's a good glue? I'm trying printing ASA on an open printer and I have some issues with larger models
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>>2994169
let me take a guess. You never had a problem with this in the past and you upgraded to FreeCAD 1.1 just recently?
It's pretty much what this >>2994176 anon said.
I had the same problem. For a better explanation and a fix watch this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fstXygscASo
(it's less than 5 minutes of your time)
>>
>>2994182
No clue sorry, I have an ender 3 with a K1 bed so for all the filaments I can print my adhesion is perfect. I think it depends a lot on the filament you're printing, because glues can serve one of two purposes:
>hold the print to the bed at the bed temperature during printing, because the filament doesn't stick well to the build surface
>stop the print from damaging the build surface when removed, because the filament sticks too well to the build surface
And that first one is temperature dependant. A glue that works well on ABS might be useless for TPU. The glue also has to adhere well to the build surface itself, so glues might behave differently with textured vs smooth PEI, and differently again with glass or PET or PEY or whatever.
>>
>>2994189
thanks, sadly after a bit of searching I still can't find a straight answer other than "you shouldn't need glue for ABS/ASA"
I'll try heat soaking my makeshift enclosure for longer and turning off the part fan completely, if it still doesn't work I'll give the classic glue stick a shot
>>
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I can't tell if this is a clog or this abs needs drying. It's...odd. I've never had to dry unreinforced abs even with *years* just hanging out.
A few days ago I used up the last of some abs-cf core I had, and while it was dry(about six hours in the dryer+during print) it still printed with an opaque/dull fuzzy texture, while prior instances it's been glossy even with the reinforcement.
Changed filaments for a quick part, tried straight abs, and this is the result I get. Moisture in the little experience I have with it doesn't show up like this, with the first layers being unaffected and the later ones only intermitently. At worst it's the outer windings causing issues with the first few layers and it's fixed by the time they're used.
Generic abs, two walls, 0.6mm nozzle, 65c chamber, 270 nozzle, 90 bed.
>>
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>>2994202
The reason is even if you were to use the best glue possible abs's shrinkage will split the part elsewhere. the only solutions to printing large abs and memeSA is a heated chamber or clever geometry.
>>
>>2994216
I see, I guess I should just accept the limitations of my setup and work around them rather than brute-forcing prints too cumbersome for it
>>
>>2994182
issues with them sticking to the plate? pei plates vary as with mine I can't print ASA or PETG but others report they can print PETG just fine. not sure about ASA, I do print it but on the bambu hot plate. glue stick always helps, hairspray as well. purple school glue leaves a residue whereas bambu glue stick does less and hairspray the most even and least. mouse ear skirt, skirt, and part design can all play a big part too. it's not as simple as "ASA no worky" you have to give more info and pics.
>>
>>2994182
use unscented aquanet hair spray(or equivalent). You get to just spray it on the plate.
>>
>>2994213
If you look at it in the slicer, do the bands correspond to shorter layer times or some other variable? Can’t think of any other reason it would be worse at the top of the model, and feasibly a cubic-like infill pattern could cause the layer time to vary significantly in a periodic fashion. Though the matte bands seem to be closer together lower on the cone, so maybe it’s periodic on the spool itself.

I guess give it a dry, and swap nozzles if you have a spare.
>>
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>>2994250
I pulled the nozzle and did a hot extrude of 50mm of filament with no nozzle installed. pulled these two things, left is nozzle right is heatbrake.
I'm also reprinting the same gcode with a new nozzle and it's looking perfect so far.
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>>2994260
focused on heatbrake extrusion. there is what look like small gf fibers but I really can't tell.
I'm half tempted to slice these nubs off and dissolve them onto a specimen glass with some acetone to look for either carbon fibers or glass fibers... somehow.
the black looking scale is from the sealing surface of the nozzle/heatbrake interface moreso than there being burnt shit inside the filament path.
>>
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>>2994261
oh hey, it's done.
since the previous nozzle was a tungsten one, I'm running 280c on abs, switched to a standard plated copper one which transmit heat much more readily. Printed mostly fine but the filament with the more conductive nozzle was clearly cooking near the top where it starts to slow down.
The filament has not been dried in between >>2994213
and picrel. It's also not brandless abs, it's sunlu abs.
What I'm struggling to comprehend is why a partial clog somewhere in the heatbreak/nozzle is causing an overextrusion/overdimension similar to wet filament, and mixing to a degree that it turns glossy core filaments into non-core matte ones.
>>
>>2994179
>Also, fuck glue sticks get on the unscented hairspray train.
'k, any brands to recommend? I am not really up on hairspray since I am a bald sort of guy.

>just open a window
I don't want to let bugs in. The mosquitos are fucking brutal this year.

>>2994180
>If you're trying to preserve chamber temperature, you may want the ability to turn the fan speed down.
Good point; while I can set that up in the future (easy with a RasPiZeroWH and two wires connected to GPIO, maybe throw in a potentiometer or at least a couple of buttons for faster/slower if I want to be fancy), right now I just have a straight 12V power supply.
>Also to prevent leakage, you're better off having the fan at the window, sucking down the tube, as opposed to at the printer, blowing down the tube and potentially out any gaps.
My tube only needs to be about six inches long. I'll probably slice off about a foot of duct tube just to be able to move the printer around a little.

>Do you intend to regulate the chamber temperature to a homogeneous 80C
Yes. AFAIK Bambu X1C can handle it, but I'll check. I can always start lower to test.

>Textured PEI shouldn't be damaged
I think my plate is textured. Wish I could've gotten an "engineering plate" before Bambu discontinued it. :-/
>>
>>2994284
the engineering plate is just pei with some additive iirc. I'ts kinda reduntant and pointless especially for asa/abs. even pps-cf will print perfectly fine on regular pei.
Most of the time textured plates have lower bed adhesion but they also release better and are thus less likely to be damaged. glue stick/spray/bed conditioning is often used more for a release agent (petg, tpu) on pei beds than it is an actual adhesive.
>>
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>>2994284
>any brands to recommend?
I use aquanet
>>
I just restored my old Ender 3 I had lying there because I needed another printer for some project and it now performs better than when I replaced it with an Artillery Sidewinder X2.
Now I'm considering upgrading to a Bambulab X2D, mostly because of printing supports with different materials sounds nice.

Is it worth it over a Creality K2 Plus for the support thing or it's just a skill issue?
Also, how much is the speed improvement when upgrading to a CoreXY printer?
>>
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>>2994176
Yup, that was it, thank you.
>>2994184
Wow, that makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the video.
>>
>>2994225
I have an A1 mini in a makeshift enclosure (holds a bit of heat and protects from drafts but nothing more) the 80°C max plate temperature is the real issue without a heated chamber. I have to print a flat ellipse-shaped part that's like 15cm long, even with a generous skirt one side always lifts a bit from my cryogrip plate (I don't have pics nor the piece at hand but the last time the deformation was small enough that the print still managed to complete and is almost usable, I figured that the warped edge was sitting in a spot where the plate is a little colder but on such a small printing space I don't have the freedom to move it around much) but next I'll try bambu's original pei plate with glue, or this >>2994228 if I find any around the house.
Oh and I turned the plate to max temperature some 20 minutes before starting the print, but the warping only happened around an hour or so into the job. I used the criogrip plate because it holds onto PLA much better than the standard pei plate, but I failed to consider that it might lose "performance" at higher temperatures or that it just might not adhere well to ASA
>>
Redpill me on Klipper, I have an Anycubic i3 with some hack I did years ago that enabled mesh bedleveling and it works great.
>>
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>>2994077
>>
>>2993049
Now you have to ask the government to print something you Bambu loving faggot. Congrats, you played yourself. Ender-3 go brrrrrrrrr.
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>>2994333
>Ender-3 go brrrrrrrrr.
>those digits
confirmed
>>
>>2993049
>i love my bambu and tell everyone irl to get one
how much did the bamburabbi pay you to post this?
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>finally caved in and fell for the marketing.
>going to install nozzle.
>max temp 300C printed on the packaging.
>pet-cf profile is 320. pps-cf profile is 350.
Thank you lord bezos for a useful return policy.
>>
>>2994336
>lower required operating temperature
if the marketing is true it might have been fine for your use case
>>
>>2994340
those profiles are with tungsten carbide nozzles already.
I'm not really willing to compromise strength in materials that cost $100+/kg and are already quite capricious. No material will make up for a 50C delta, but marketing certainly will.
>>
>>2994336
diamond should be able to withstand 350 °C ?
>>
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>>2994343
>>
>>2994344
>over 100€ for this
what the fuck where they thinking? Can't the stock Qidi Q1 Pro reach 350°C?
>>
>>2994349
375 in firmware, though there are no filaments that reliably print hotter than 350 but cooler than 400. pekk, pei, peek are all ~400C. it's a weird gap.
Not like the qidi printers can print those, just being a pedant.
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>>2994349
>what the fuck where they thinking?
they have to pay their shills, who will install a nozzle, use it for a couple of prints with unreinforced pla, and claim that the pla printed perfectly, as if pla ever doesn't.
>>
>>2994359
Can’t wait for cubic boron nitride nozzles.
>>
>>2994333
>>2994335
>how much did the bamburabbi pay you to post this?
ironic when I get w'd by two niggers within the same hour over a week after my post
>>2994333
mine go brrr idk what you're on about
>>
>>2994413
for me its
>tungsten carbide nozzles
>>
>>2994415
Are they solid carbide, or do they have a carbide insert? I looked a while ago and they were pretty expensive, I think copper nozzles with a hardened steel insert is a good enough middle-ground for 99% of prints.
>>
>>2994421
forgot which board i was on
was quoting monty python
https://youtu.be/rQDeU6dHX-c?t=44
>>
>>2994284
>>Do you intend to regulate the chamber temperature to a homogeneous 80C
>Yes. AFAIK Bambu X1C can handle it, but I'll check. I can always start lower to test.
So it turns out that whatever page was recommending 80C was on fucking acid or something, 55C is recommended for ASA, and Bambu apparently maxes out at 60C before electronics start flaking.

Anyway, I'm trying to download a temperature tower off MW now and it's being Chinese asshoe, but I'll probably start printing tomorrow.
>>
>>2994431
80°C did sound pretty high, I know that generally ABS starts deforming at around 100°C but according to some sources its HDT can start at 80°C, so having to go that hot just to print it was a bit much.
You can get a temperature tower STL from any website, it'll be an excuse to learn how to change the nozzle temperature manually at select layers yourself
>>
i want to try printing pla in an 80+ chamber, with some sort of qidi-like cooling system to prevent heat-creep
maybe it would anneal itself as it prints?
>>
>>2994458
or maybe it'll creep and curl.
which is what happens in my unheated voron2.4, and which is why im working on a cpap build to pull cool air for outside
>>
>>2994459
can't you just use a much lower bed temperature? I think that once upon a time people used to print PLA on a cold bed
>>
>>2994460
anon, of course im using an unheated bed, on a glass sheet, with painters tape.
but you gotta understand, the hotend on my printer goes HOT because im printing fast, any time i print something bigger than a benchy the printer will be pumping an ambient 70+ anywhere near it.
doesn't help i live in aus and we can get the 40c days.

the issue is that the hotend cooling fan is pulling the air from RIGHT above where the hotend is sitting at 260c, so the cooling fan is pushing hot air.

hence my plan to cpap even a few dozen cm away to get cold air through, or even toss a duct out the window and pull some cool nighttime air to print overnight.
>>
>buy legit CHT nozzle from Bondtech
>it breaks during installation
Back to chinkshit I guess
>>
>>2994431
no consumer printer can reach, much less withstand 80°C camber temp.

Maybe a Doomcube, that basically puts all electronics outside and uses high temprature rated stepper motors and all aluminium construction (maybe some none load bearing parts you get away with PA12 or better PPS
>>
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I'm ripping the guts out of a makerbot z18 and replacing it with a modern printer mother board. (I've been talking about this for a while but it's actually happening now. I'll be sure to post updates if anyone is interested)

I have an octopus pro board and I'm now deciding what stepper drivers I should get and where I get them from. I'm looking around on my own as well but in the meantime, does someone want to redpill me on these things? Should I just buy them from BTT too?
>>
>>2992972
I wan't to switch from SLA to this kind of printer. But what's the biggest difference between Bambu Lab P2S and X2D? Is the 100€ jump worth?
>>
>>2994519
for the most part stepper drivers are kind of all the same for printers.
theres the cheap ones, which cause motor whine.
and the less cheap ones which dont whine, and you can dial in the voltage on them.
then you enter CNC motor drivers are its not a chip anymore, its an entire module.

just get the BTT ones
>>
>>2994521
Heated chamber and a dual nozzle for printing supports and multiple materials, which makes it excellent for engineering purposes. If you plan on doing 2-colour printing, it will vastly reduce purge waste, but if you’re getting an AMS or two and using more than 2 colours it’s not that much of a purge difference. If you’re only printing with single colour PLA or PETG, the ability to print breakaway or soluble support materials probably still makes it worth getting.

All this is assuming you don’t have any moral objections to the bambu botnet and GPL violations, and don’t believe any of the new 3D printing regulations will effect you.
>>
>>2994533
>bambu botnet and GPL violations
fill me in. only worked with elegoo so far
>>
>>2994535
Bambu wants to know what you're printing, makes their printers phone home and rat on you. If politicians get their ignorant laws passed bambu will have legal backing to say "you can't print that", and effectively turn off your toy remotely.
>>
>>2994535
its a lot like the 'discussion' on how toxic resin is.

one side says wear PPE any time you enter the room adjacent to the printer

the other side say they drink their waste IPA

except for the bambu 'situation'
its one side says the printers are sending every model you print to china so they can add spikes to your butplugs and sell your company secrets to the american government so they can tell disney and lockheed you're impinging their IP of guns and cartoons.
and the others say the printers report basic telemetry for the sake of knowing what they should sell more of.
>>
>>2994537
bambu was taking all my data long before the government got involved. the salient point is they will be able to sell their printers under the laws and others won't simply because they have the report every print to home already implemented. but come on they're chinese, when have the chinese ever cared if you printed disney's IP
>>
>>2994540
everyone exposed to resin will develop an allergy, simple as. I think the space masks are overkill but if your livelihood is resin slop I can see why you'd want to be extra careful.
>>
>>2994546
>he isn't printing winnie the pooh toys with xi jinping face
Why even have a 3d printer?
>>
>>2994546
Bootlicker mentality. They haven't yet gone door to door to collect all the guns in America, they sure a heck wont do it for 3D printers.
>>
Gonna be honest with you guys.
I really don't think Bambu or "The government" cares all that much about how many Flexi Dragons you print or whatever.

It's always kind of a fall-down with these conspiracy things where people are worried they "They" will know what you're doing.
And you're like Bob from Arksanas who 3D prints random deadpool figurines.
Who the fuck cares? How is this information useful to anyone?
>>
>>2994550
the first rule of a police state is everyone is guilty. it's not that they want your large cap magazine they want to have something on you for leverage. read a book instead of /pol/
>>
>>2994551
cute AI trying to devalue privacy post.
>>
>>2994553
speaking of, I saw AI posters now outnumber human posters online.
>>
>>2994553
I just think it's very performative.
You guys cry and moan about Bambu invading your privacy and then own a smartphone.
Can't really have it both ways, you know?
>>
>>2994548
i get it man, i wear a mask and gloves whenever im opening my little enclosure, mostly because i hate the smell, and don't want to touch sticky shit.

but thats not what a lot of people are arguing, a lot of them make it into a political thing, because they already have a mindset picked out for that, while they lack any foundational info for the chemical/biological/regulatory properties of UV resin, so its easier to see what their side says about it than actually look into the reports on resin exposure.

same thing with the bambu printers, people see its a china machine sending info, and hook that info into their knowledge of china, and get alarm bells, even without knowing WHAT info its sending, or even how or why is being sent, and especially if theres an easy way to stop that info from being sent, like just not putting the printer onto a network.

honestly to solution is to just not buy bambu stuff if you're worried about it, there are SO many other choices.

same as with the solution to not wanting to get poisoned by resin is to just not get a resin printer if you're worried about it.
>>
>>2994551
>Who the fuck cares? How is this information useful to anyone?
If it doesn't matter then why do they want it?
>>
>>2994557
Because they can get it.
It's like if somebody offered you a way to find out what your neighbour was having for dinner every day. At no cost to yourself and with no way of him knowing it was you specifically that knew.

Sure, it's almost certainly useless information, but why not? Maybe one day Walmart will pay you for that information.
>>
>>2994555
Imagine thinking im going to argue the value of privacy with an Ai designed to undermine that very concept.
>>
>>2994559
Nah bro. I'm actually Bill Gates.
We put that chip in you when you got the vaccine.
Sorry bro. I know the hardness of your shits now.
Little loose today, eh? Maybe less Taco Bell next week.
>>
>>2994557
because info like "what plastics" and "the general size of your average print" is VERY useful for things like making a new printer specialised for their largest marketshare.

its why they made their stl host site too, to find out WHAT people are printing to sell more.

because its a company, not a mind control empire of sin.

>>2994559
not him, but not everyone you disagree with is an AI.
sometimes people just disagree with what you think.
>>
>>2994561
>being anti privacy
>on an anonymous Mongolian horse husbandry forum
Safer bet them being an AI that has a learned interest in eroding the populace' value of privacy for a corporate master.
>>
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hello everyone. very new to 3D printing, jsut got my printer maybe 2 weeks ago or so. can anyone tell what might be the issue here? i'm having a bit of trouble with models using small perforated holes like this. if i had to guess, it's a speed issue? i have a refurbished kobra 3 v2
>>
>>2994565
Is that the bottom or the side of the part?
>>
>>2994551
Nigga it isn't a conspiracy it's actually real legislation.
>>
>>2994566
it's a lid for a thinkcentre mini pc and it was printed vertically as in the bottom photo
>>
>>2994564
>anti privacy
anon, sometimes people actually just don't care.

nothing to hide and all that.
>>
>>2994569
probably grease on your printbed causing the first layer to split on smaller wall sections.
>>
>>2994569
Some issue with bed adhesion, as anon said.
Clean your bed, if dirty, and maybe try applying some form of adhesive (I use a glue stick) or just increase the bed temperature a little bit.
>>
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>>2994571
>>2994572
i see, ill give those a try. my prints for the most part looking quite good but sometimes it just completely messes up. it can be quite bipolar but i guess thats just how this shit is. fun though!
>>
>>2994565
It's hard to say exactly. I had a similar thing happen when trying a new brand of filament. The first few prints were fine then one with large surface area came out like yours. Turns out I needed to change my Z-offset. I ran a first-layer calibration and really pushed the filament down hard and that seemed to solve the problem.
>>
>>2994573
If your filament is prone to warping, consider the location of your printer and the airflow around it, since it's an open bed. You're probably not printing ABS on that but even PLA will warp a little bit. If one side gets colder than the other side, that side shrinks and it might lose adhesion or otherwise cause issues. The pic you posted failed in two spots, on of then being on the edge so that could be cause for that spot.
>>
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>>2994574
i was reading about the z-offset setting i should look into it. for the most part ive just been running default settings and tweaking here and there just to learn whats going on. i was thinking i should upgrade my nozzle maybe but not sure if its worth it
>>2994575
i keep it in my bathroom lol
>>
>>2994535
Basically this:
https://consumerrights.wiki/w/Bambu_Lab
>>
>>2994576
you read all the guides about cement bricks, and desk padding, but didn't actually read into WHY didn't you.
take it off the fucking folding table setup and just put it on your tile floor dude
>>
>>2994582
i knooow i had no other option and dont want it directly on the floor. i will go to home debo on monday to boughted some concrete bricks for under the paver =w=
>>
>>2994576
HYDROPHILIC FILAMENTS AND YOU PUT IT IN THE FUCKING BATHROOM WHAT THE LITERAL FUCK IS WRONG WITH YOU
>>
>>2994583
no im serious retard, just put it on the floor, put the pavers directly on top of those padded things under it if you want, but that table is doing harm, and adding weight to the top isn't helping.
>>
>>2994588
>>2994585
>>2994582
its not even funny retardation, this guy is acting like an actual child, read up on the things to buy, but not WHY or how to make use of it.

christ.
>>
>>2994565
Z offset doesn’t look to be the problem as it’s got a decent impression of the bed texture. I’d inspect the elephant’s foot to be sure. It could be that the bed mesh isn’t doing its thing properly (or you’ve somehow disabled it in the printer or slicer), perhaps it isn’t high enough density, or there’s grit or hairs under the bed causing it to be uneven. Cleaning the bed with a good soapy scrub is a good idea.

>>2994582
Not him, but isn’t that fine? A heavy rigid thing directly underneath the printer to dampen its movements, and spongy material beneath that so as to reduce vibrations travelling between the printer and the ground. I don’t really see how the table influenced anything, any resonance modes it has will be dampened by the paver.

>>2994585
I missed the part where he said what filament he was using. PLA for a PC case would be funny.
>>
>>2994619
>heavy rigid thing directly underneath the printer to dampen its movements, and spongy material beneath
the issue is that the table will have fuck all dampening, but more importantly, i've had those tables before, and they RAPIDLY lose rigidity when shaken, and collapse, and that was with just a book and waterbottle moving a few times a day, cant imagine they would hold up to a printer moving and the added weight of a paver
>>
>>2994540
>printers are sending every model you print to china so they can add spikes to your butplugs and sell your company secrets to the american government so they can tell disney and lockheed you're impinging their IP of guns and cartoons

Don't forget they're probably scraping every model you print for AI training too

But yeah the fact that they can remotely brick your printer for literally any reason they want is enough on it's own to ensure I will never buy something from them ever.
>>
>>2994555
The difference is not having a smartphone today is a major inconvenience for almost every person, ie you don't have a choice about that, you're getting railed by smartphones whether you like it or not. But not every 3d printer company automatically spit-roasts you, you can buy from basically any other brand and not deal with it and still get a very good/equal quality machine.

>>2994561
>its why they made their stl host site too, to find out WHAT people are printing to sell more.
>because its a company, not a mind control empire of sin.
Fair but remember google and facebook and microsoft, etc, etc who started out as "just a company" that was looking to make money and were providing us with useful services for free? I'm sure they generally started out as just a company but then they start optimizing and that leads us to where we are now if left unchecked. So yeah it may just be finding out what people are doing with their printers so they can make printers that do that thing better, but it will inevitably lead to training AI's on your prints and flooding the world with modelingSlop and gaining more influence than any company should have in a healthy system if they are good enough at sucking you dry for information.

Its not nessicarilly what they learn that is dangerous, its what happens as a result. Imagine Bamboo gaining enough influence to push for laws and regulations in printers like we are seeing now.

OK im crumpling up my tinfoil hat now.
>>
>>2994555
so low IQ it hurts
>>
>>2994581
>>2994537
>>2994540
any other printer recommendation then?
>>
>>2994651
What do you plan on printing?

I’d generally say that
>cheap
>good
>not a botnet
Pick any two

But there may be a reasonable pick depending on what you want.
There’s also the option of leaving your Bambu machine disconnected from the internet so they can’t force software updates, but you do lose some functionality.
>>
>>2994659
I would said mostly larger items that I couldn't print with resin, either because it was too expensive or too heavy.

Things like tabletop terrain, large miniatures/figures, masks and helmets, some shit for archery and airsoft, parts with threads/screw threads. Multi Colour looked also fun, for some prints. I saw that you can print alot of smooth stuff these days, so that could help me with some self made stuff i made
>>
>>
>ender3s1
>terrible bed adhesion
>z-level offset calibrated, re-leveled with paper, leveled bed with touch probe
>still shit first layer adhesions and warping on lower layers
>enable raft
>no problems, raft adhered just fine to the bed
am i just retarded? the print quality was slightly lower (0.16 instead of 0.12) on the raft test print i just did but still, am i retarded? do i need to lower my z offset another 0.04mm to compensate for the layer thickness difference?
>>
>>2994660
Snapmaker U1 is pretty decent looking for multicolour and general quality
>>
>>2994666
How are the Anycubic ones ,like the Kobra S1 ACE 2 Pro? Are they any good?
>>
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fb marketplace 100 sheckles for sonic 8Ks mini, cure, and cleaning station. resin included all the og tools and extra lcd. resin isnt as bad as people made it out to be its pretty simple idk if ill ever set up the FLSun again
>>
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>>2994674
first resin print was successful
>>
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>>2994635
they can remotely brick it if you use their software, but you will still have the hardware, and you can just flash new firmware, i don't understand how people are so up in arms over such a solvable issue.

literally just put klipper on it, or marlin if you're nasty.

>>2994636
the browns online are already flooding everywhere with generated STLs, i actually have more trust for a company who's name is attached to it than "India2020Superpowah748" who dumped 500 totally unrelated model onto printables or thingiverse last night.

>>2994660when you say large, do you mean "im printing an entire 3rd ed 40k field in one go" or do you mean like, printing some ruins to scatter around.
200x200, 350x350 or 500x500?

either way, if you just want push button get item, and are already in the 'any cubic ecosystem' then just buy whatever their newest printer that fits your size limit is.

i find most of the people i know IRL who get into printing start with way too much though before they know what they actually want, so i lend them my old monoprice select mini, get them into the idea that printing is 50% slicing, 49% waiting and 1% playing with your flexi rex, because then they all now that what they want is a printer that goes fast, and is about 200x200, so they buy a bambu mini second-hand (there were a lot here post Christmas) and then let it collect dust once they got the novelty out of their system.
the ones who stuck with it usually did so because they actually had a reason for a printer, and most of them end up buying a specialist machine to go with their use case, or build a voron/ratrig if they just want to tinker.

the benefits of working in a school with a 3d printer club.
>>
>>2994670
Kobra X looks good, doesn’t need the ACE for 4 colours, has very short required retraction distances. But the S1 is a generation older and probably in need of a refresh. I’d look into what improvements were made with the S1 Max or whatever it’s called, and watch some reviews. Flashforge’s AD5 series are decent looking, but they’ve locked you into their slicer and put ads in it so the same botnet problem applies.
>>
Ok niggers, I bought the Creality K2 Pro.
I'll post here when buyers remorse hit.
>>
>>2994688
pfft
>>
>>2994688
>k2
he doesn't know...
>>
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>>2994688
>>
Baker here, I am going to bed and it looks like it will hit the bump limit tonight. If it does and it is needed go ahead and make a new thread. Otherwise I will make one tomorrow.
>>
>>2994692
go collage boy go
>>
>>2994680
>but you will still have the hardware, and you can just flash new firmware
I don't think that you can do that on a stock Bambulab, from my understanding you have to at the very least replace the mainboard
>>
>>2994680
Yeah you can’t just plug an SD card in with 3rd party firmware, unlike a Snapmaker U1.

>>2994703
They managed to hack a new firmware for the X1C called X1Plus, but I can’t find any information about custom firmware for any other machines.
There are options for replacement boards for Bambu machines, like the Biqu Cyborg for the P1 series. So if you’re desperate and already own a Bambu machine, it’s an option. But if you bought a Bambu printer in the first place, you probably didn’t want to be buggering about with flashing custom firmware and wiring new mainboards. I guess this makes it more palatable to buy a used X1C if the price is good, but I suspect those hold their value too well.
>>
>>2994703
>>2994705

yeah i actually had a look after that post, and man is that just a pain, mainboard is totally closed garden, which makes sense as to why open source folks are mad about it, literally using without giving back, im glad BTT is developing a drop in replacement, but the appeal of bambu is the software, hardware is kinda meh.
>>
>>2994706
Hardware for X2D is pretty compelling, with its dual nozzle and chamber heater. I think it’s the only heated-chamber multi-nozzle printer on the market, at least until you go up to the pricy western IDEX machines.

Otherwise, if there becomes a 3rd party cloud option and the ability to flash forks of Bambu’s own firmware, I’d recommend them in a heartbeat. Being a fork you’d get the same software experience if not better, just like what the U1 has.
>>
New OP image is ready. I will wait until page 10 though, so maybe tonight? Or whenever, I'm not jonesing.
>>
>>2994725
>New OP image is ready. I will wait until page 10 though
The previous one is only at page eight.
Bake straight away if it reaches the image limit, otherwise you can hold off.
>>
>>2994725
Wait at least until the old thread is gone. No point I'm having 3 of the same general at the same time, two is more than enough already
>>
>>2994689
>>2994690
>>2994691
It was the only way to call your attention
Now answer the question >>2994292
>>
>>2994728
>>2994727
kk
>>
How can I use that last 50cm or so of filament that gets left over from a spool but can't make it's way far enough into the printer to activate the filament sensors and thus won't print? Is there any way to attach it to the start of the next spool?
>>
>>2994735
>Is there any way to attach it to the start of the next spool?
Yeah, how handy are you with a soldering iron and light electronics?

My printer's documentation claims that you can just feed a new reel in after the old piece of filament but I usually find that the last little bit is too kinked to flow easily through the ptfe and the end doesn't get neatly pushed down the bowden tube by the new filament.
I end up having to retract it out and throw it in a box for if I ever have a way to recycle filament.
>>
>Bought X2D
>Aux extruder is constantly having issues.
>Finally got it so it isn't tying filament up in itself.
>Stringy and blobby when printing.
Would it have killed them just to put the H2D's head on a P2S?
>>
>>2994736
>how handy are you with a soldering iron and light electronics?
Pretty handy.
I'll try to find some of those but smaller and simpler so I may be able to build one with stuff I already have around here.
>pushing one after the other
Not going to happen with the creality CFS, it goes from the main CFS body, to the cutter to the printer, and I think it needs all the sensors to be activated.
>>2994742
>sure it is part of a botnet but at least It Just Werks™
>>
>>2994743
>I'll try to find some of those but smaller and simpler so I may be able to build one with stuff I already have around here.
Well you know the search terms now, there's hundreds of designs on the various STL sites.
>>
>>2994735
>lighter
>bowden tubing (the 1.8mm ID stuff unless you want to spend even more time filing)
>a nail file
>bic lighter from nearest gas station
realistically you can just heat and squish them together, wait for it to cool and then file it down until it slides without binding, or use that 15 dollar amazon special pair of calipers to make it fit right
>>
>>2994732
If you’re considering a printer for engineering filaments, it should be an X2D or something from Qidi, probably not anything Creality.
>>
Is a 0.8 mm nozzle worth it for making prints faster? I don't need much resolution on the Z axis but I do need letters and other stuff printed on the top surface to be sharp and readable. A larger nozzle gives me higher layers so it might cut the layer number in half but how much resolution on the top part will I lose?
>>
>>2994769
You can try yourself by taking whatever shape you need to print and then round every single convex corner with a 0,8mm radius.
>>
>>2994786
If I understand, the arachne wall generator can technically do smaller than this, though quality suffers somewhat.
>>
I want to split my AMS lite in half and have each one hanging so the rolls are all flat against the wall. Are there any existing mods for this? Probably have to design it myself but thought I'd ask. I see lots of leg mods or hanging mods. Even a separate feeder mod (like ams mini and ams micro). But none that divides it so it can be flush.

There are also prints for just the spring-loaded spool holder part, but I want to keep the whole body and rfid
>>
>>2994814
Seems like you'd need to extend those RFID cables. Not impossible, but a bit of a hassle, especially if you can't buy preterminated wires. Maybe you can avoid this step by relocating the PCB to be equally spaced between the four spools, allowing the existing cables to stretch far enough, but even if the geometry works that would involve redesigning at least some of the body. Maybe that's for the best. I'd be of the mind to mount four poles on a sheet of half inch plywood.

The coils on either side of the AMS are pretty close to one another, I wonder if they do some freaky destructive interference technique by driving the opposing coil with a scaled and inverted wave so as to not read from a spool on the other side? If so, that could mess with your plans. I'd do some bench testing with the coils misaligned before designing any hardware.
>>
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>>2992972
i get that this is not your personal army website but i dont understand why no one on this gay earth has already created a multi arm blade comb i can use my existing razors with instead of paying some assholes 70 dollars for it. I'd almost pay that amount of money to have one of you buy their business with rape dollars for trying to jew me that hard with their proprietary bullshit.
is there nothing out there that will take regular razors?
>>
>>2994839
I think the gizmo he posted is a tool for bakers or something
>>
>>2994840
Yeah, it took me a minute after posting to realize that he wasn't talking about shaving.
>>
>>2994840
>I think the gizmo he posted is a tool for bakers or something
Seems to be yeah, though I don't see any reason you couldn't design one that took regular safety razors, or even generic craft knife blades.
You could practically duct tape a few box cutters together and create the same effect, printing a big-boy handle that took six craft-knife/box-cutter blades seems simple enough.

>>2994841
>Yeah, it took me a minute after posting to realize that he wasn't talking about shaving.
I was going to suggest just paying $79 for a Henson and never having a shaving problem again.
>>
>>2994838
looks like an easy enough thing to model yourself DESU.

grab a scraper STL that uses generic blades, trim it to just the holder section, copy it 6 times with the right spacing, and then extrude a handle out the back of it.

i think no-one bothers because if they want to make one, they just make it.
>>
>>2994843
>grab a scraper STL that uses generic blades
Start off with a lame or baker's knife. Thingiverse has hundreds of them.
Then just clone it in parallel, angle slightly and join them together somehow.

I think the skeletonised one here is a good candidate.
>>
>>2994844
>clone it in parallel, angle slightly
FreeCAD's polar pattern might work perfectly here.
Then take a handle from something else like a hairbrush and plonk it down over the base.

Barely any original modelling work required.
>>
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>>2994844
i mean, yeah, or just make it from scratch, its like, 2 sketches, maybe 3.

clearly >>2994838 is a CADlet, because i threw this together in what, 20 minutes?

not perfect, but its never going to get used, so who cares
>>
>>2994846
>clearly >>2994838 is a CADlet, because i threw this together in what, 20 minutes?
Well me too, which is why I focus on reusing existing designs as much as possible.

I could do it but it would take me five hours.
>>
>people buy 3D printers without knowing how to 3D model
I would be mad if these consoomers didn't make printers more affordable for me.
>>
>>2994848
>people buy 3D printers without knowing how to 3D model
People drive cars without being mechanics too.

3D modelling is a somewhat complicated thing to learn.
I know vaguely how to do it, I can even see what steps are necessary.
I still have to spend half an hour looking up each one, get it wrong once or twice, then another half hour working out how to use the tool to do it correctly.
>>
>>2994848
I don't know how to model and I'm at the whim of every fag on Printables, Thingiverse or Makerworld to have made the shit I need. God forbid someone HAS made it, but they add some gay faggotry like their logo on it cause
>I want to get paid

Be better than me, anons.
>>
>>2994851
hey anon, wanna know a secret?
i printed without knowing cad for like, 8 years.
i had a co-worker who was a big modeller, but was afraid of plastic fumes (despite being a smoker)
so i just never learned.

then he quit, and i had to learn.
it took maybe 4 weeks to go from tinkercad cubes to get to fusion 360 models like i posted above (>>2994846)
having a project with flat measurements is AMAZING for learning how to go from sketch to 3d, and learning the right words for the process you're trying to do goes a LONG way, as does splitting your model into planes instead of trying to blender 'sculpt'.

be better than your past self my dude.
>>
>>2993206
Not sure what they go for on ebay but there's actually a machine (well 3 generations of them) that does this! It's actually designed for multi colored prints way before AMS or whatever it's called was a thing, letting you do multi color or multi material even if you only had one print head. It sits inline between the spools and the printer and calculates the precise length of filament of a given type/color needed for a given path, measuring that out as the machine print. It then cuts the filament and automatically fuses the next color to the end using some special mechanism and a little heater to push them together seamlessly. If they are the same material but different color (or just using it to combine multiple spools of the same thing to reduce filament refill frequency) the printer doesn't even "know" that its using multiple colors/spools. If you are running different materials, the system ensures that the print head is at the proper temperature and uses the correct feed rates and all that. I don't remember if it actively talks to the printer or if it does the slicing itself/modifies already sliced gcode before it gets sent to the printer. The advantage is there is literally zero filament waste. No purging of any kind needed for most cases (maybe if yor're doing different materials and couldn't purge in infil or something for whatever reason you might need a really small purge tower)

I actually have half of one of these machines, but due to a bit of confusion with the people who gave it to the university excess auction, the other half is still in the rapid prototyping lab at my school presumably. (one of these days I'm going to get around to convincing them to give it to me because neither of us can use our half without the other and they probably don't know what the thing even is or that they have it)
Can't remember what its called right now but this might be more what you're looking for anyway https://290printing.com/best-3d-printer-filament-fuser
>>
>>2994873
that sounds cool but expensive, also how long does the process to create the fused spool of filament take compared to the print time of the piece?
And I wonder how precise it would be if I were to make a piece with fine details and a .2 nozzle
>>
>>2994847
>I could do it but it would take me five hours.
It takes you five hours the first time, then it will take less time when you need something next.
>>
When changing hotends and nozzles, is it fine to use computer thermal paste?
>>
>>2994893
https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/17anx2i/do_not_use_pc_thermal_paste_for_the_nozzle/
>>
>>2994845
NTA, I’d quite like to make a craft knife that uses razor blades. But I’d want one rigid enough to put some decent force on without the blade deflecting. Rigid enough to cut through 3D printed plastic. Does anyone else do this?

>>2994893
Check its maximum temperature. Cheap zinc oxide thermal grease can handle 200C while my knockoff arctic silver stuff only goes up to 185C. There’s proper high-temperature zinc oxide thermal grease I’ve seen on Amazon you can buy specifically for 3D printers, but I haven’t seen it in any local stores.
>>
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>>2994895
no but making three fully stainless tube versions of my favorite craft knife has been one of the best things I've ever done.

the key is the blade tightens from the back with a full metal shank, the plastic tube it comes with splits under enough pressure so I replaced it with an stainless tube. The print is just a comfort grip based on a 3d repair to the plastic version and doesn't interfere with how solid the whole thing is now.
>>
>>2994900
I've just got aluminium-handled ones with a split collet tightened right at the base of the blade, like a standard xacto. Are the ones tightened at the back better? I have a lot of double-edge safety razor blades and not many xacto blades, though that's not a massive problem.
>>
Anycubic Kobra S1 Combo costs new 430€.
Someone sells it used (5 prints) for 400€.
If i manage to negotiate to 350-375€, would it be a good price/worth to get it?
>>
>>2994910
Or is the CC2 better?
>>
I have a Bambu A1. I accidentally dented my smooth PEI plate it originally came with. No biggie, I'll just buy a new one, right? WRONG. Apparently it's been discontinued? All they have now are shitty "Engineering" Plates that require glue. I can't find a PEI plate anywhere, they only make them for the A1 minis now. >_<
>>
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>>2994920
checked the store and it's available everywhere except Australia, they are probably just out of stock there
>>
>>2994920
isn't the engineering plate the discontinued product that's hard to come by? do you live in some sort of upside down land?
>>
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>>2994893
>When changing hotends and nozzles, is it fine to use computer thermal paste?
....uh are you supposed to do that? I've just unplugged/unscrewed the old one and installed the new one on my x1c. I think I've done this about four times now.
>>
>>2994920
>>2994929
fuck sorry I just realized that you said smooth and not textured, but still if the textured one is the same as the one for the X1 and P1 series then I don't see why it wouldn't be the same for the smooth one, despite the fact that the A1 is omitted from the tag
>>
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Are 3D scanners worth a shit yet? I've been looking around and some of them are compelling. My usecase would mostly be for reverse engineering old plastic shit that is brittle and falling apart without tearing my hair out printing out 800 iterative versions until getting it almost right using paper math.
Almost 700 zogdollars seems like a lot for a toy that realistically will never pay for itself thoughbeit.
>>
>>2994935
Consider some 3 dollar digital calipers off of amazon and see how far you get with that before you drop 700 on a magic gizmo
>>
>>2994935
have you tried photogrammetry first to see whether that's precise enough to fit your use case?
>>
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>>2994937
the particular case that made me consider it is pic related, when this door thing is missing from the front, it's just a hole with a shitload of converging curves and angles that you have to reconstruct. i've had no luck getting photogrammetry to work with concave shapes on surfaces like this, but maybe i'm just too retarded if that wasnt already obvious by me looking at laser scanners as a jobbyist
>>
>>2994935
From what I’ve seen, they’re getting better every year. So every year I figure I should wait for next year’s models.
The only ones cheap enough that I’d buy without knowing I’ll make my money back are the cheap ones from Creality which I don’t trust for shit. Revopoint have a great selection from lowish up to high prices, with a variety of features. But all the cheaper ones seem like compromises to varying degrees. Maybe it doesn’t have as many types of laser lines, or doesn’t do colour, or isn’t as good at shiny surfaces, or is better with tracking dots, or is harder to sync scans together. Choice paralysis. I do pretty varied stuff, I’d want something that can work well on lots of materials, at scales where half a millimetre matters, without having to use a turntable, and would prefer to do the processing on my desktop. Last I checked, there wasn’t a particularly compelling option.
>>
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>>2994938
I unironically don't see anything in there that would require more than a calliper and a protractor triangle. If you just wanna get a scanner for fun, be honest and just buy one.
>>
>>2994935
If you're unable to clean up the models then they're useless to you.
>>
>>2994939
Oh also I’m on Linux and don’t trust their software to not break when using WINE.
>>
>>2994939
>without having to use a turntable
Why though? Dump your object on there, don't bother till it's done, precision results for cheap. Basically the same as 3d printing.
>>
>>2994947
Having the option would be fine, though it is something extra to pay for. But as a hard requirement it would prevent me from scanning things like parts fixed to a bicycle or car.
>>
>>2994948
>though it is something extra to pay for
Pennies compared to what you save on the scanner. Heck, we're on diy. Just build it yourself from scrap.
>But as a hard requirement it would prevent me from scanning things like parts fixed to a bicycle or car.
>bicycle
You mean parts you'd have to take down anyway?
>car
You mean parts you won't touch for shit?
>>
>>2994895
>But I’d want one rigid enough to put some decent force on without the blade deflecting
Just search for a chunky lame knife.
>>
>>2994938
>when this door thing is missing from the front, it's just a hole with a shitload of converging curves and angles that you have to reconstruct
Take some modelling clay, wrap it twice in cling wrap, then jam it into the gap.
Carefully unwrap it and scan/measure it.
>>
>>2994946
>Oh also I’m on Linux and don’t trust their software to not break when using WINE.
Spin up a VM using activation scripts from >>>/g/fwt, pass through the USB and run the software in windows.
I reverse engineered a device driver that way.
>>
>>2994949
>You mean parts you'd have to take down anyway?
Not easy to do if it's a part of the frame, and I want to get something that lines up perfectly with the bolt holes but doesn't foul on the tire or chain.
>You mean parts you won't touch for shit?
Not at the moment, but say if I had a missing fusebox door or other interior piece of plastic I'd want to replace, I'd need to scan the cavity in which it would fit.

>>2994952
Yeah I'd probably do this if I had to. But for now it's just another friction point, another reason not to spend $700+. Along with software updates breaking things, or closed-source software deciding to become a subscription service or discontinue support or whatever.
Anyhow, I don't make any money of 3D printing, and don't yet have a printer that can print engineering grade materials. The wait equation seems to apply just as much to printers as it does to scanners at the moment, at least this point into the toolchanging revolution.

Think there's an open source workflow that could come close to a revopoint without a turntable? Like walking around with a disassembled insta360 recording simultaneous stereoscopic video with some laser lines. Or whatever funky neural algorithms are coming out and being obsoleted by smarter non-neural algorithms, like gaussian splats. Raspberry pi with a camera and micro-projector? I saw that impressive pi-based lidar scanner a guy made for scanning caves, though he was using an off-the-shelf lidar scanning head.
>>
>>2994955
Go back to g.
>>
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I hate PC PBT so much it's unreal. I seethe every time some retard absolutely wants something made out of it despite being only slightly stronger than PLA. Also, this stupid fucking printer and the colleague that made the fucking profile for this material should go. If I had the money I'd launch this stupid setup into the sun and I'd buy a fucking Prusa or, hell, a Bambu, at least I wouldn't have to deal with that abortion that is Ideamaker.
>>
Help
https://files.catbox.moe/jiyfol.webm
>>
>>2994979
looks like the stepper is cooked ?
looks fun to put your dick on it though
>>
>so I have an enclosure and I was wondering-
>Why???? That type of printer shouldn't have an enclosure??? Why have one?
>well I have dust and cats, and it helps contain fumes. Anyway I was wondering-
>But why?????
I hate these reddit comments so much holy shit.
>>
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>>2994986
Thanks Karen
>>
>>2994986
it pisses me off so much when they do that
>Can I print ABS decently on an A1?
>"you can't do that, Bambulab says that it's not meant for it and ABS needs an enclosed printer"
>"I like printing with PETG, never felt the need to print ABS"
>"ABS releases styrene so you need to vent that shit outside or you'll immeidately get super cancer"
>"you need an enclosure but you can't put an A1 in one because you'll fry the electronics and burn your house down"
>"I only print PLA, it's good enough for most things and it's recyclable"
>"my H2D prints ABS like a charm"
>"it doesn't work, I once tried printing ABS with the default PLA settings and the print came off the bed"
>"if you needed to print ABS you shouldn't have bought an A1"
>>
>>2994979
tighten shit
look for missing teeth
is the wiring pulling it down
write gcode by hand to move
use different slicer or different initialization gcode
ensure correct printer
try different file

did it ever print?
is it new?
did you build it?
what the fuck did you change recently?
also film the same shit from the back esp if the belts are visible.
>>
>>2994938
iterative design. it might take a dozen prints but I'd make the lower front plane and whatever hinge, make the upper face frame and then once those fit join and tweak the middle face. fusion360 has design history so it's easy to tweak something's size or shape and have it cascade down.
>>
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>>2994994
>>2994986
why are you chucklefucks even on the hugbox if you don't want hugs?
>>
>>2994998
reddit is the easiest place to find a layman's opinion on niche subjects (instead of watching a shilltuber's 20 minute video or reading a chatgpt article) so it can be legitimately useful, but when you find a post asking exaclty the same question that you have and it has dozens of replies but they are all inane chatter that don't even try to give a proper answer it can be infuriating. I don't have an account because I'd immediately get banned for calling these people retarded
>>2994997
I really need to start putting more effort into making my parts properly parametric, I always end up designing things in a way that makes it a pain in the ass to go back and change certain dimensions and in Freecad it's very easy to break something this way
>>
>>2994932
Classic bambufag.
>>
>>2994995
found the problem, a loose wire
>>
>>2994979
Check your wiring, with the power off otherwise you might cook the board.
>>
>>2995000
i work in school IT, and 9 times out of 10 i read a reddit thread for a solution to some particular student laptop issue, and its just straight up wrong.

and i dont mean "the person said the novo button was on the side on this model, but its clearly on the OTHER side, what a fool" i mean "well yeah if your hinge is stiff you just gotta work it a bunch, grab the top of the screen and push it, yes my screen DOES have a huge crack in front of the hinge, and the entire frame is bent, why do you ask?"
infuriating.
>>
>>2995001
Oh I see why I was confused, I'm replacing the whole hotend and not just the nozzle. The heating element is already connected.
>>
>>2993049
based
>>
>>2995074
With new bambu machines it's just clamped in there and you don't use thermal paste at all.
I do wonder how it compares. It's a lot more convenient, but surely the thermals can't be as good.
>>
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I'm working on klipperizing a makerbot z18 with an octopus pro mainboard.

How do I connect my regular computer to the octopus board? I have it plugged into usb, the board is lit up, and windows is recognizing it as a USB COM device, but how do I actually communicate with it? Ie do I use a terminal, or is there something like putty with ssh but for com ports? Or do I not "talk" to it at all in that way? What else do I need to know here that I am probably not getting right now?
>>
New to this hobby.
How the fuck do i prevent the fucking filament from tangling all the time?
>>
What's the "right" way of storing filament in vacuum bags? Should I be throwing desiccant into the bag too? I'm guessing it shouldn't go in the hole in the middle since the vacuum bag would prevent it from absorbing what's actually in the filament? Ideally should it go around the filament? On the outside of the reel? Guessing I should print some desiccant holder thingies for the outside?
>>
>>2995191
Depends when and where it's tangling.
>>
>>2995193
>Should I be throwing desiccant into the bag too?

It may or may not be necessary. As long as the desiccant is less saturated than the filament and air left in the vacuum bag, it won't hurt to put it in. If it's totally saturated though you will end up adding water back in instead. You can dry the descant by heating it (with air able to move across it and escape) in various ways. Just going off of a gut feeling, I would guess that for most people, with most filaments, you probably don't *need* desiccant for storage. If you're storing TPU in the jungle that's a different story.

>>2995193
>I'm guessing it shouldn't go in the hole in the middle since the vacuum bag would prevent it from absorbing what's actually in the filament?
My gut feeling is that it will still work somewhat, but perhaps not as well as if it was in the same area as the filament. Your vacuum bags aren't a true vacuum. They remove most of the air, collapsing the bag, and then remove some amount from the space between the filament. air molecules are good at working their way through very tiny holes. But either way you will still get better results if its like sitting on top of the filament probably. Again, all of this is gut instinct but I do have a physics degree if that makes me a little more qualified.
>>
>>2995195
in the middle of printing, on the roll, it strangle itself under one/two lines
>>
>>2995200
only way to prevent that is to buy filament that is neatly wound, I had the problem and the filament ruptured periodically (PLA)
>>
>>2995196
Thank you physicsfag. I thought as much too but have had so much issues with the shit I'm using that I figured my intuition was wrong and I may need to go another way. I'm pretty certain I've lost a couple of reels due to humidity in my area. No matter how much time they spend in the dryer, I can't get the PLA below 30%.
>>
>>2995200
Yeah, that's basically up to the filament manufacturer not to fuck up winding their filament.
More reputable filament makers usually have it occur less, but even if you're buying bougie Protopasta shit, you're going to run into it occasionally.
>>
>>2995176
Connect to the serial port at the right baud and I’m assuming you’ll be on its terminal.

>>2995203
If your drier works by heating air and venting humidity, there’s only so low the humidity can go. On a cold dry day, it’s probably plenty. On a hot humid day it probably won’t be. Hotter is better, so nylon can have a much lower humidity inside the drier than PLA, for the same outside conditions.

Desiccant can be much better at getting drier, because you can heat it up and drive off moisture at hotter temperatures than the filament can handle, but even with forced airflow it’s very slow at drying out filament at room temperature. In a dry bag it’s really just there to absorb moisture leaking in. Though in principle you could make a heated dehydrator box, sealed from outside air, with air blowing past desiccant.
>>
i'm in florida and my dryer gets petg/pla down to 17% reliably...
I've gone through hundreds of spools and never had one get wound around itself due to maufacturer error
>>
>>2995176
RTFM
>>
>>2995222
I can get PETG, ABS, ASA, TPU, and other random shit I've used down to 15%. But for some reason PLA does not get below 30% for me with the same set up that I use for everything else. I'm not sure if I just ended up picking up some duds by accident.
>>
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>>2995248
PLA isn't hygroscopic, so you shouldn't even need to dry it. General reminder that using heat to dry stuff has its limits due to the properties of humid air. You can use a psychometric chart to check what decrease in relative humidity you can achieve with an increase in temperature: you pick the intersection between the lines corresponding to your ambient dry bulb temperature and relative humidity, then move horizontally to any other temperature line and read what relative humidity line it intersects.

There are also online tools like this:
https://www.psychrosim.com/

Say you live in a hot swamp, 30°C 65% RH, and you don't want to heat your PLA beyond its measly 40°C glass transition temperature, the humidity in the dryer will be like 37%.
>>
>>2995248
Cardboard spool?

>>2995253
I’m surprised nobody makes a filament drier with an inline peltier condenser. Wouldn’t be very efficient, but it could take the edge off those hot humid days. And you could just reduce the airflow rate past the cool side until it’s really cold, and hence really dry. Even a trickle of bone dry air is going to dry out filament when it’s heated, though you might have to leave it running for a few days,
>>
>>2995263
Plastic. For all reels.
>>
>>2995263
Condensing water out of the air takes an ungodly amount of energy and the power required can easily overwhelm a Peltier. A wheel dessicant dehumidifier is probably better although more complex and expensive. A half decent innovation would be a drying system where with inlet and outlet, with temperature and relative humidity are measured in both along with airflow, so one can derive how much water you're getting out of the spool and how much power the heating element needs, although it would be way overkill for what ultimately works good enough already i.e. a temperature controlled heater with a recirculation fan inside a box.
>>
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The hotbox hits and holds 70C passively when printing with a 110C bed and 270C nozzle. Cranking out some PC-PBT GF15 parts.
>>
>>2995311
I've had zero problems printing straight polycarbonate with my P1S.
>>
>>2995222
>>2995248
All of my plastics go down to 10% and stay there for months no problem.
I oven them and then put them in a bag with desiccant from which they are fed straight to the printed through a tube.
>>
>>2995278
>Condensing water out of the air takes an ungodly amount of energy and the power required can easily overwhelm a Peltier
Energy required is a function of air volume, so power required is a function of volumetric flow. If your peltier has 5W of cooling power, just turn down the flow rate past the cooling heat-sink until it gets below the wet bulb temperature.

>a temperature controlled heater with a recirculation fan inside a box
The air venting seems to be an unsolved question. Too much venting and you lose heat and waste power. Not enough venting and the humid air accumulates, assuming you don’t have a bunch of activated alumina in there. I’d want to see internal humidity measurements as common, and perhaps even servo-controlled vents that open and close.

Also I hate how all self contained humidity gauges stop at 10%.
>>
>>2995248
why even bother with pla, petg is same price
>>2995263
>I’m surprised nobody makes a filament drier with an inline peltier condenser
true. i have to leave my drier open for the humidity to escape, really a lacking design
it works, but come on
>>2995322
yeah you don't live in florida or louisiana, congradulations
>>
>>2995333
>why even bother with pla, petg is same price
Better material properties for in-house use.
>>
>>2995340
like what?
>>
>>2995341
So long as you stay under 30-40C or so, tensile strength, impact resistance, and layer adhesion are for sure superior. Creep isn't quite so clear, PLA deforms less distance under the same load, but can hold a higher permanent deformation once the load is removed. If you need a bit of flexibility then PETG might be worth considering, since PLA has a significantly higher tensile modulus.

So I wouldn't use PLA for any print that will be in contact with something substantially warm (like a high-power electronics enclosure), or that might absorb a lot of light or heat radiation (like a black object on a windowsill), and any mechanism with a 3D printed spring in it may be overly stiff (metal springs are better). Other than that it should be fine for anything indoors.
>>
>>2995333
>why even bother with pla
NTA but i find that quite often i want stiff objects without a lot of flex, even if they'll eventually sag.

a lot of the parts i print in PLA are jigs or spacers to be used for a particular once off process:
deck plank spacer with a pilot hole guide
cutting jig to get a 10 degree edge on a 5x1m sheet, consists of 2 edge clips that hold a scrybar without getting in the way of a circ saw
a clip to fix a ratchet strap around fenceposts without rubbing on the rusty nails all over it.
dremel cutting jig to get flat cuts on m3 bolts at exactly 13mm (fuck custom security fixings on user serviceable equipment)
jigs to place 2020 extrusions at right angles for flattening the end, and aligning a through hole.

and because i use it as a quick fix, i usually have it in stock, and loaded in my machine, so a lot of things like plant pots, fidgets for children/man children, and "hey bro i saw xyz on Instagram, but they want like, $20 for it, could you print it?" jobs of keyrings and fairy wands.

but still, 75% of all my prints are ABS, i just hate needing to wait 20 minutes for my 350mm voron to heat up to print a 5 minute part, so the old bed slinger is a PLA quick print jobber.
>>
>>2995345
I definitely see the utility of a little enclosed printer, like a Sovol Zero. Add a chamber heater and you're good to go. I kinda want to cram an INDX (or clone) in there.
>>
>>2995347
nah nah nah, the point is to have something that can print fast, and accurate single use tools, usually flat as shit so the wobble of a slinger isn't an issue.
i want it unenclosed because i never want to need to warry about having it "heat soak", i push 24v 0.6 at 0.4 layer height most of the time, so it takes more time to design the jig than it does to print, so i find a need, CAD it over lunch, and have it ready for the next round of fixing my fucked up heritage house.
>>
>>2995348
My point is that a little enclosed printer could make small things that need to be in ABS without long heat-soaks. And you can still have it ready to print at all times since ABS doesn't really absorb moisture. The utility of a PLA spitter is absolutely important too of course, I was just addressing your final stub of a paragraph.
>>
>>2995351
even if i did have a voron 0 (which i was going to convert the old monoprice bed slinger into originally) i would still probably print PLA on it though, being able to just BLAST it with fans is why i can print so fast with it compared to ABS.

the heat soak/quad gantry level/bed probing/bed heating takes the longest yeah, but the drop from 160m/s to only 90m/s from PLA to ABS is the biggest slow down, plus the minimum layer time.

at least from my experience with it across 3 printers and 4 brands of PLA and ABS, far from all encompassing.
>>
>>2995345
>>2995342
yeah i still just see petg having those merits plus more for the same price
in my experience petg is stronger, has much better adhesion for the same price
things i print in pla that aren't waterproof will not leak in petg, mounts in pla for tools and shit fail sooner than those in petg
if it was cheaper OK, but literally same price. petg outperforms every metric in my experience
and aggressively outperforms in real world things like temperature, water, stress
>>
>>2995353
The difference is maybe PLA being 10% better on average in those specs. MyTechFun has consistently found this, at the very least for tensile strength, impact strength, and layer adhesion. And there's a lot of variation between blends, so it's entirely possible to pick up a random PLA and a random PETG and find that the PETG outperforms the PLA. But if you're optimising your filament choice for the application, you can almost certainly find a PLA that does better than any PETG, there's just more variety for practical PLAs than there are PETGs. Including extremely tough blends and extremely heat resistant blends, though from what I've seen these seem to make concessions in other properties.
>much better adhesion
Layer or bed? If you're struggling with bed adhesion with PLA in 2026, you're doing something wrong. If you mean layer adhesion, then that + your water-tightness concerns would suggest you should be printing hotter and/or slower.

PLA also just prints nicer.
>>
>>2995355
>PLA also just prints nicer.
i'm gonna keep just using petg. it looks as good as the hundreds of pla prints i've ever done.
>Layer or bed?
i meant layer, referring to a post I was responding to. bed adhesion i don't think is a valid arguement as you noted; skill issue.
maybe it's just because I live in florida and there's UV everywhere, I just find petg has outperformed in every way.
>>
>>2995321
You have shit z bonding.
>>
I hate people who use fdm printers for "art" so much.
>>
>>2995355
ngl I think that part of the reason why I tend to use PLA more often than PETG is that I don't have to dry the former, even in my 30-40% humidity home the latter ends up bubbly after a while
>>2995365
I can see it being a useful tool for a bunch of arts and crafts stuff, for example you can easily make molds etc.
But I imagine that your comment is mostly directed at the people that just print some shit and then sell it without even post-processing it
>>
>>2995359
I don't think so.
>>
What is a good way to get rid of supports? Do i have to use a different filament and when yes what kind?
>>
>>2995365
It's a tool and production method like any other. Designing something with artistic intention to then produce it through FDM is a valid artistic endeavor. An artist might even leverage the ease and propensity with which bambutards produce plastic waste through their magic boxes to provide people with his art and make himself known. It's a win for everyone, really. People trying to sell 3D printed crap they didn't even design is sad though.

>>2995390
>design things so that they don't need supports
>orient the object on the plate so that it doesn't need supports
You'll be amazed at what you can get away with, especially if your printer isn't a bedslinger.
>>
What CAD software do you guys actually use? I tried FreeCAD but it feels so obtuse. I assumed CAD would work like this
>open program
>add 3D shapes
>input measurements
>boolean
>save
>you're done!
Instead I'm like 1 hour into tutorials and I still feel lost
>Create a new sketch
>Select this workbench. Don't worry about the 50 other ones, but you have to remember to select this every time you start
>Add a body
>Add a graph to the body
>Now select a plane
>Now add a shape
>You have to add constraints to set the size of the shape
>Wtf why is constraint not being added, oh I forgot to hit some "confirm" button in Tasks
>Okay now pad it
>congrats you just completed part 1 of 10
>Keep in mind that every action is done by selecting esoteric symbols that are all kinda similar and you have to memorize them.
Is this normal?? Wtf is this shit
>>
>>2995441
>FreeCAD
This one, it's easy to get started, all CAD software has its autistic touch and it will bend your mind to use it, you have to adapt
>>
>>2995441
FreeCAD.
You can create primitives without sketches if you want.
>>
>>2995441
>esoteric symbols that are all kinda similar
They are very, very explicit in the realm of CAD software.
>>
>>2995441
At work,as a CAD monkey, all of them bar a few; I'm specialized in Solidworks, with Inventor as close second. At home I use OnShape. I tried FreeCAD 1.0 and 1.1, and it was a painfully autistic experience that's not worth repeating. OnShape is very easy to use and has some nice and powerful features I like. It's still rough around the edges, and some functions are ostensibly missing, but it's getting there. I don't mind the fact my shit is publicly available for scraping by AI companies, we're all gonna die anyways.
>>
>>2995441
fusion 260 does a lot of good work in being 'friendly', but there's a lot of cloud bullshit for it.
>>
>>2995461
>>2995473
Why do so many CAD programs require internet now? So annoying.
>>
>>2995479
They all have for a long time. All commercial CAD packages phone home to check your product key. Some have floating licenses, some get tied to a PC, but in the end they all ask for internet at least once every once in a while anyways. Not to mention, licensing is usually a yearly affair, and I have yet to see perpetual licensing outside either very expensive shit (e.g. Ansys) or new products (e.g. Plasticity). Of course with the cloud meme they've all scrambled to produce a cloud solution, and I'd say PTC did the best job with OnShape. I'll say something controversial: there's real value in something like OnShape and I can see why some company might want to invest in it. It functionally never crashes, unlike literally everything else, storage is outsourced so you don't need your own server with its upkeep and costs, it's instantly global without the need for a VPN to get into the company intranet, etc. Of course all this is offset by the gargantuan trust you have to give to the service provider, and the need for a stable internet connection. Then there's Fusion, that somehow manages to get the worst of both worlds, by being a local install that require cloud access.
>>
>>2995479
because when they didn't i had 7 versions of rhino, autocad, solidworks, along with all of adobe, because i grabbed them off uni computers.

and running free trials for 30 days, clearing the registry entries and running it for another 30 days worked great too.

so now all CAD is online, and i still use the free versions, because im not paying a shit zillion dollars to make a 3d model of my kitchen so i can design an inbuilt table and send the countertop measurement off to the stone cutters.
>>
>>2995479
They need it.
It's impossible to make a software run on your own machine. All that old software from back when that wasn't necessary? They never existed, you dreamed it all. They just HAVE to have access to your data at all times, 24/7. Don't worry about what they're gonna do with it, it's no important. You've got nothing to hide, right?
>>
Dumb question, but which option let me reduce the thickness of the bottom support to save filament?
>>
>>2995493
Yes, that is a dumb question

what do you think uses more filiment?
those supports, or knocking down those supports and getting half a mask and a load of spaghetti?

but literally just google "tree support base width"
>>
>>2995484
License is understandable. I was mainly referring to all these new ones getting shilled that are browser based and require an account. Like why can't they have an offline download ffs.
>>
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hopefully someone can help me, I'm using freecad to make a box and now I'm attempting to make a sliding lid for it. I learned how to do a boolean operation and made the lid using a cut. However, now I have no idea how to resize JUST the part that would slide in so that it won't be a permanent insertion. I could scale it but then fit would be incorrect.
>>
>>2995519
In the sketch, define an offset distance from the box's dovetail and the lid's dovetail, instead of using the same dovetail for both.
>>
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>>2995520
Hmmmm. I was kinda hoping to be a bit lazy, that lid is just a boolean operation of this box and another box with the same dimensions(I thought something like that would be easier than trying to make a lid via sketch. So the only way to get the result I want is to make a sketch for the lid? Sorry if I sound retarded, I am, but I'm trying to teach myself this from tutorials.
>>
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I'm looking to get a big UV light and was wondering if there are any someone here would recommend? Im not using it for 3d printing resin but to sun bleach cards. This is the one I have now
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X5VT56K
and it works well but its really only big enough to do one card at a time.
>>
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>>2995519
>>2995522
had to do this for a part that slides as a male dovetail in a female dovetail, I copy pasted the sketch (and only that when it asks to select what to copy, then attach it to the other part) used to on the female part make the extrusion and make the pad on the male part and I played with the dimensions, I think I removed one and a half nozzle diameter but it will depend on the slicer way to handle the dimensions see picrel that was posted on a /3dpg/ thread
>>
>>2995441
i've been telling chatgpt to make me stl files from measurements and description of what I want
it works shockingly well
once it does first mock up you can refer to specific parts that aren't what you want and argue with it
it gets there.
>>
>>2995493
that looks like you could just set it on the bed and use 0 supports
>>
>>2995441
SolveSpace and Dune3D are much simpler than FreeCAD but still fairly powerful and fully parametric. No multiple workbenches, pretty fast to learn.

But it really would be better to stick it out and gain an intuition for FreeCAD.
>>
>>2995441
TinkerCAD might be more up your speed, but you'd be better off learning how to work with sketches
>>
>>2995522
laziest way would probably be to do a 3D offset on the entire lid part and then rebuild the square portion to its original size with a new extrusion or something
>>
>>2994569
I wouldn't print PC covers with PLA, as it may melt.
>>
>>2995697
What I ended up doing was a subshape binder of that upper area and kinda working backwards recreating the lid, making the dovetail with a additive piping around it(with a bit of an offset). Testing the print now, was feeling pretty dumb for a while there. Appreciate the help!
>>
>>2995365
What irks me is people who use multicolor prints and boast about how much filament they waste. Why not use paint?
>>
>>2995737
idk why figurines like this one but separated in pieces by color aren't more common, cyanoacrilate glue is strong as fuck with PLA
>>
>>2995739
>separated in pieces by color
THIS FFS and I am not even >>2995737
I just don't understand
>>
>>2995737
No idea, never done a multicolor print even though I have owned an AMS for years. Every filament comes in a primer gray.
>>
>>2995754
Chad gray enjoyer. Do you use the AMS for filament drying, or having different materials handy for different prints, or just to automatically swap after filament runout?
>>
>>2995763
>Do you use the AMS for filament drying
I don't have one of the newer heated AMS, just an older one with little desiccant containers in the hole of each spool. I have another powered dryer that I run my filament through when I first get them, luckily I live in a very dry climate so those two pretty much cover me. printer will tell me it ran out and pause so no big deal there either. I just keep cheap pla, strong pla, some asa and tpu at the house.
>>
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>gf wants tower fan to sit higher
>use bin to prop it up
>it's less than ideal
>time to put my skills and printer to good use
I could have done a better job, but it works and looks nice.
>>
>>2995769
>it works and looks nice.
It does look nice, good job anon.
>>
>>2995769
time to send your resume to space-x
>>
>>2995754
>>
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>>2995737
having plastic color is so fucking sexy. I also paint prints but multicolor is the fucking jet.

>>2995523
I would just get a nail curing light.
>>
>>2995838
Is it supposed to be a merchant on an insult to the colorblind?
t. red-green
>>
>>2995769
I find wood easier to build supports like this, but this ain't bad.
>>
>>2995881
3D printing is still king for me: when it comes to woodworking I don't have the skill/experience nor the tools, let alone a place to fill with wood chips and dust, while I'm an engineer/cad monkey by trade. Ironically, I wanted to give the support some nice wooden legs, but it would have taken time to find good ones or, worse, make them. Perfect is the enemy of good and so I printed those too.
>>
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Deck holders
How do I paint these to bring out the sculpted woodgrain and stone cracks without making the print layers stand out? On resin prints I'd just dry-brush, but that seems like it'd highlight the layer lines more than the actual detail
>>
>>2995969
Some people swear by painting on clear 3d resin and of course curing it. But I have a feeling its a YMMV situation.
>>
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>>2995969
If you want to keep the surface finish as-is, you'd be painting the details directly. If you want to do that thing where the low-spots have a different colour from the high-spots (e.g. directional spraying, buffing off a top layer of dried paint, or wiping wet paint off), then any print layers are also going to stand out. I'd look into gap-filling primers, or anything else that, like the UV resin suggestion, is viscous enough to sit between the layer lines. A thicker bondo-like filler might work too, and have less of a dripping problem, but working it into the layer lines but not filling in the woodgrain would be tough, and sanding it flat afterwards would be even tougher.

Sand down that line going through the heart(s) first though, and any other artefacts.
>>
>>2995969
some kind of pin wash might work, but yeah any trad mini paint technique is going to highlight the lines. you can reduce the layers and increase print time or try abs smoothing but in the end, layer lines in that kind of detail are just going to be there or you're going to ruin any detail taking them out. best to just accept them and try different techniques to figure out what looks okay and what makes it worse. they're card holders, they don't need to be mini standard to hold decks.
>>
>>2995441
Try CaDoodle
>>
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>>2995441
Fusion360
>menu create sketch
>choose plane, view orients and zooms
>use sketch tools at the top to make closed shape
>hit "finish sketch", returned to 3d space
>select shape sections
>hit Q key
>drag arrow or type size, hit enter
>repeat with plane on the shape
later
>now go back and change the sketch by double clicking it in the timeline
>model is updated
or
>roll the timeline back to the first shape extrusion
>draft changing the angle of a side
>roll back and the draft is incorporated in the object

the learning curve is still steep, but at least the learning curve is worth it.
>>
>>2996009
>bro, what if the only way to see and edit XYZ coordinates is if we had floating overlapping text boxes?
How can devs create such complex software yet be so inept when it comes to the most basic shit

>>2996028
Yeah after a few days I'm starting to warm up to FreeCad. It's not as simple as I like it, but I'm understanding the philosophy of sketch planes. The viewer annoys me though. Why is there no grid in the part design? I can't find an option to enable it. And the camera sensitivity is wonky. It's like when I use Blender and zoom out too far, then when I try to rotate the scene everything goes woosh.

>select shape sections
>hit Q key
>drag arrow or type size, hit enter
>repeat with plane on the shape
I don't get it. Is Q supposed to do something?
>>
>>2996028
building a solid through sketches is rather intuitive imo, the hardest part is learning your preferred software's UI because they are so feature-rich that it's easy to get lost. But once you start getting used to the workflow and you start actually making shit it's so satisfying
>>
>>2996030
>Is Q supposed to do something?
he's talking about Fusion360 and you're in FreeCAD so it's all different, the latter is more clunky so it probably doesn't even have an equivalent action
>>
>>2995969
>sculpted woodgrain
You can follow some panel lining guides for gunpla but that WILL also fill layer lines. Covering it and putting it in acetone fumes can smooth it so you need to play with the timing to not lose all the detail.
>>
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Trying to flash klipper firmware onto an octopus pro v1.1 (with the H723 cpu) and I think I've failed twice now, can someone help me out?

The only thing I'm doing differently from any guide I've looked at is I'm not using a pi for the compute device, I'm using an old dell vostro laptop. I have a terminal-only debian install on it and have klipper, fluidd, and moonraker all installed on it. I've built the mcu firmware both with kiauh and with the make menuconfig route described in the klipper docs and found no difference in the results.

I plug in an sd card to microsd adapter into the laptop/hosts sdcard slot, mount it manually, copy and rename the klipper.bin to firmware.bin and put it on the sdcard, check in a different laptop to confirm it's there, then plug it into the octopus board and power it up and wait.

After a healthy amount of time (guides say "a few seconds" I've waited as long as 20 minutes) I check the fluidd server from another computer and its still not seeing the mcu. I also run the
ls /dev/serial/by-id/*
command over ssh and it says there's no such file or directory.

What am I doing wrong? And also doesn't it seem a little weird that BTT has a pre built firmware.bin file for the other two octopus pro variants but not the fastest one?
>>
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I usually print a benchy after dialing in a new type of filament. Just to see if it works out fine.
What do you guys do with your benchys? Right now I've got them scattered around on my speakers throughout my apartment.
Here I've got PLA, PLA-CF, ASA+, TPU
>>
>>2996039
I just leave them on the printer until I run out of that filament, one before calibration and one after.
>>
>>2996039
I have never printed a benchy and I hope I never do. I fucking hate them so much.
>>
>>2996035
>putting it in acetone fumes
if it's some, not all, brand of ABS. definitely not PLA, but you can heat smooth PLA it's just real easy to fuck it up and melt the shit out of it instead.
>>
>>2996030
>>2996028
>>2995441
All proper CAD softwares function basically the same
>select surface
>sketch and constrain/dimension a closed shape
>exit sketch and extrude, revolve, sweep, loft, etc. said shape into a 3D volume (or a negative volume)
>repeat until satisfied
All other tools like hole tools, rib, shell, fillet, chamfer, etc. are to accomplish the aforementioned but faster.
And in the assembly environment
>insert part
>orient and constrain part in relation to other features/parts
>repeat until you have assembled your assembly
Fusion 360 is fucky with the assembly workflow and idk why they do it like they do.

Protip. Whenever practical, constrain everything to the origin point, planes, or axes. This will make for tough models that handle changes well without constraints breaking.
>>
>>2996030
CaDoodle anon, yeah I agree it has some issues, but it's the closest to what you described (unfortunately). There was Microsoft 3D builder, but for some Godforesaken reason, they delisted it.
>>
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>>2996036
Well it turns out that the issue was my usb cable, it flashed the firmware just fine. Unfortunately there still is something that isn't right. I don't have any stepper drivers or anything connected to the MCU yet, is that why its saying it can't connect?
>>
>>2996090
It can see the MCU, but it still says the printer cant connect...
>>
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>>2996091
>>2996090
forgot the picture
>>
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>>2996092
OK I didn't understand what I was looking at yet, I just had to tell fluidd what serial port the MCU was talking on.
>>
>>2996090
>>2996091
>>2996092
>>2996093
anon, please, im begging you for the second time now
Read The Fucking Manual.
>>
>>2996051
Apparently PLA dissolves in extremely basic solutions, I think you might be able to smooth it with sodium hydroxide drain cleaner. You can definitely smooth it with some sort of organic solvent, though it's not a common one.

Also ASAs can usually be acetone smoothed.
>>
>>2996115
>Apparently PLA dissolves in extremely basic solutions
so does skin and basically anything else
>>
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>>2996039
Office decor.
pc-abs and pet-cf, both printed in a 65c chamber. I can't break the smoke stack on the pet-cf.
>>
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(so i asked this in an wrong thread like a drooling retard so i am reposting it here) i got a artillery genius with mks gen l v1.0 and i am trying to get a bltouch clone to work under klipper, it deploys the pin but it doesnt know if its open or trigged. i checked the klipper doc. i changed every bltouch config i checked if i was using the right pin etc. the bltouch worked on marlin but not on klipper. so i asked ai and it said this: "The MKS Gen L v1.0 board has built-in capacitors that smooth out electrical noise on endstop ports.
While Marlin handles this fine, Klipper is too precise—the board's capacitor completely absorbs the ultra-fast (5–10ms) signal from a 3D Touch clone before Klipper can even detect it." and it said i should use the servo2 as the z-stop. so is the ai right or I will fry the motherboard if i try that?
>>
>>2996144
Looks wet

>>2996202
I don’t think so, if I understand the bltouch doesn’t output a pulse, it outputs high or low based on whether the pin is above or below a threshold. I don’t suppose you’ve got a 5V mainboard and a 3.3V touch probe, do you? Are pull-up resistors properly enabled? Test voltages with a multimeter, connect a switch instead of the BLtouch’s output pin to see if that triggers it. If a switch to ground doesn’t work, try a switch to the MCU’s voltage rail, or even an SPDT switch to both rails.

No clue what kind of servo it has. If it can dynamically adjust stepper current (i e. It has UART wires to each stepper driver, or some other custom analog circuitry to the voltage references) then you can turn down the stepper current and drive the nozzle into the bed and detect it stalling, if not, the stepper will put too much force into the bed, If it uses servos, the same principle applies, you’d probably want to reduce motor torque before waiting for the encoder to report zero travel distance from a step.
>>
>>2996213
>No clue what kind of servo it has. If it can dynamically adjust stepper current (i e. It has UART wires to each stepper driver, or some other custom analog circuitry to the voltage references) then you can turn down the stepper current and drive the nozzle into the bed and detect it stalling, if not, the stepper will put too much force into the bed, If it uses servos, the same principle applies, you’d probably want to reduce motor torque before waiting for the encoder to report zero travel distance from a step.
nah. i got a 5v board with a 5v probe. (Twotrees 3D Touch Sensor)
i used a screwdriver to test the output pins (it registered.)
atm cant test it with the multimeter (batteries are dead) tomorrow getting some.
>>
How do I go about buying an entire printhead? I was thinking about getting the same one as whats on the K1 since then I'd have parts for 2 printers that were compatible. But also considering making a voron afterburner. I don't really know, what's a good printhead for a custom build?
>>
>>2996105
What manual? The closest thing I could find was a github project with pictures of it and a pdf file that basically tells you to turn it off before plugging the steppers in and how to wire up the pi and stuff like that... It's supposed to have great documentation but 3 years after the release they hardly have any references to the new 1.1 version with the faster MCU...
>>
>>2993049
'a bad workman always blames his tools'
>>
>>2996228
the fucking klipper manual you retard

you're trying to install software by reading the fucking motherboard manual and getting mad that it doesn't tell you how to flash linux.
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>>2996228

shit dude, just use the Voron guide.
https://docs.vorondesign.com/build/software/octopus_klipper.html
You've made this harder for yourself by using a custom build with an old dell, when none of the guides list a non-pi option.
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>>2996227
You can make a custom hot end with Creality parts like the Unicorn nozzle if you want. If I wanted to keep commonality between nozzles that’s what I’d do, and chuck hero me cooling duct mounting holes for any any other bells and whistles I desired.
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>>2996227
put 3D hot end in google hit shopping
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>>2996288
>the fucking klipper manual you retard
Yeah I was using that sort of but now that you say it I probably should have used that as my primary guide. I assumed that since BTT had their own thing that it would be better to follow it, but in retrospect seeing as it's incomplete that wasn't the best decision. I will admit to being pretty retarded sometimes, in the "I'm not stupid but I AM dumb" kind of way.

>>2996292
Yeah I was using that guide as well.
To be fair putting the compute/host side on the x86 hardware worked fine the first time. And yeah I knew that would likely make things a bit more difficult, but that hardware is free and it seems fun to try it.

>>2996293
>You can make a custom hot end with Creality parts like the Unicorn nozzle if you want.
Again I fully acknowledge that I'm criminally uninformed here but the only print head I'm actually familiar with is the flashforge creator pro and the near clone of it on the qidi x pro, both of which are not at all what modern print heads seem to be doing, so the issue is I really don't know what I need to get on a detailed level. I mean I know the general parts; heater, nozzle, heatbreak, thermistor, extruder/gear, stepper, part cooling fan, heat break cooling, etc, but I don't know if these things have their own control boards in them these days. Is there an accelerometer built into all of these? Does there need to be one for good results or can klipper sense the inductive load on the steppers for that the same way it does sensorless homing? As a general rule of thumb I do much better when I know HOW and WHY a thing works/is needed than I do just knowing what parts are there because I feel like I understand the system holistically, but most of the info I find is just talking about "this part and this other part connect" or stuff like that and its not telling me the fine details of what they do exactly.

How much of a benefit would it be to have spare parts shared between two printers realistically?
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>>2996308
Yes but that just gives me the hot end, not the whole print head which is what I need...
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>>2996310
Did you even LOOK you fucking moron?
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wow orcaslicer opening mainsail inside the app is really cool, bye cura
I feel like an idiot for not using it for the past month
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Making some hooptie spinners for a friend of mine. He wants to prank his garbage guys by putting them on his trash cans. Of course he had to pick the most outlandish design possible, and of course I am going to lose my fucking mind until I figure out how to keep these spindles from getting knocked over.
It's always one or two on the left hand side of the machine. I'm doing another run with an increased z hop from .4 to .6 and travel speed down from 500 to 350, and I always have avoid crossing walls on. What's something else I might be missing?
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Anyone here have a pelletizer? I have like 200 empty spools with like 10-20g on each one. Too little to run through my infinity flows, but at some point I think I can maybe turn it back into filament with that creality m1 to use as prototyping filament.
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>>2996375
What filament?
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>>2996385
PLA. He already said he doesn't want petg.
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I bought some pneumatic fittings thinking they were the pass through kind, turns out they're not. If I just take a drill bit to it so I can fit the teflon tubing through it, how likely am I to fuck the teflon tubing? I'm assuming my drilling wouldn't be exactly smooth, and the jaggy edges of the fitting would probably end up slicing through the tubing right?
>>
Did overture filament go to shit for anyone else? I think they are using a new formula and this shit just isn't usable anymore.
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Anyone have any good IEM holder designs? I've got a bunch of IEMs, and two pairs I mainly use, all have ear hooks. I'd definitely want some way of holding these when I'm not using them so they're easy to put down without them falling off my desk or bedside table. But bulk storage would also be nice. FYI I do plan on designing my own, but I'd like to see any existing solutions anons may know.
Or would I be better off asking /g/iemg?
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I plan to make alot more toys for my work, just how bad is PLA and heat? I plan to keep these in my car for a couple of hours in the summer, will they be messed up? i would use petg but the only issue is I need yellow excatly this color and ive only found it in PLA
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>>2996464
That's cute. Are all the pieces independent from each other, so they can move and function like the real thing? Did you design this?
>PLA and heat
I tested this a while ago with PLA and ABS for a certain project. I left two 5x5x0.5 cm squares exposed to the sun, one raw from the printer and one I painted with automotive paint, did this for both filaments. The unpainted PLA one curled up real bad, the painted one held much better but still warped a bit. ABS didn't give a rat's arse for the sun, held shape perfectly despise it being advertised as not UV resistant.
My test pieces were shaped to accentuate that warping, so maybe your toys will hold up better due to shape.
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>>2996464
Switch to petg at the very least.
On the other hand good modern enclosed core XY printers are so cheap you might as well get one of those and just print ABS/ASA
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>>2996464
https://www.3dqf.co.uk/product-page/default-power-tool-yellow-petg-1-75mm-uk-made-3d-printer-filament
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>need to print something flat and wide
>out of ASA
pray for me warpgods, I need to buy a chamber heater for my P1S ASAP. No amount of preheating or cooling the parts slowly gets my ASA prints to stay flat.
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BTT datasheet for the TMC2240: https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-Stepper-Motor-Driver/blob/master/TMC2240/Hardware/BIGTREETECH%20TMC2240%20v1.0%20User%20Manual.pdf

TMC2240 datasheet that I wanted: https://www.analog.com/media/en/technical-documentation/data-sheets/tmc2240_datasheet.pdf
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>>2996549
What information are you looking for? you just put them in and when you're building your klipper you tell the config file that you're using tmc2240s

the btt datasheet is for THEIR tmc2240 based steppers drivers, which they assume you are using as a plug 'n' play component on their board, and if you're doing anything more complex you can figure it out form the wealth of tmc2240 boards out there.

i don't know what you're expecting anon, you keep blaming other people for your lack of even the barest research into a fairly in depth process you've decided to embark upon.

why the fuck did you buy the parts before looking into how they're used? did you just read a BOM and assume each part would come with instructions for your use case?
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>>2996551
I've spent probably 10-20 hours researching this in the past 2-4 days alone, believe me I've done a lot more than the barest research.

As to what information I am even looking for, things like "Is their driver REALLY plug n' play", "does a 2240 driver use the same fields as the 2209 or does it need different pins defined or something" or "how do I configure the temperature monitoring on a 2240?" (apparently it just does it automatically) or "what kinematics setup do I tell klipper to use for an hbot configuration?" etc etc.

I got parts because from what I was told there really aren't any other suppliers who are as good and the documentation was supposed to be good. I knew I would be getting parts eventually and learning how to configure them eventually and figuring out what I'm doing would be a lot easier with something I can physically mess with. I'm literally making this whole thing up as I go because if I didn't then I'd spend the rest of my life planning and then eventually die without ever starting it.

Also you have to understand my work environment is... frustrating. The largest open workspace I have is like 8 inches by 3 feet. Helping a parent recover from a major surgery. I come here and ask questions the same way I would casually talk to a person in the room with me. Just bouncing ideas around. I don't mean to come across as trying to have someone else do everything for me. Just have no prior experience doing this and in my experience it works a lot better if you can find a person who knows what they're doing to point you in the right direction in terms of resources.
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>>2996559
anon, the issue is that you're asking questions that are either self evident, or should have been looked into before you bought the parts.

the solution to a lot of your questions would be to look at the full setup of a printer using the motherbaord you planned on using (literally every voron has great guides for every step of setting up a btt octopus) and then modifying it to your use case.
but instead you're working your way backwards from individual parts instead of looking at the whole project.

BTT is recommended because they are plug and play, and they DO have good documentation, its just that the documentation is in other peoples guides for an entire build, because you seriously don't partially build a printer by coding each part individually, you set up a host, mainboard (full of stepper drivers) connected to a hotend and the steppers, because the printer NEEDS all those parts to know what it is, thats why the whole config file is hard coding in parts and ratios, and if you're missing a definition for WHICH screen module you're using the whole thing throws a fit, because its assuming the mystery input/output is short or broken portion.
you cant really do much without the whole setup in front of you.

the issue with how you're posting these questions is that you're the hundredth person to ask these same questions, and 90 of those 100 were idiots who literally hadn't done any research, and were using the thread like a kid uses an AI chatbot, "hey whats this for? can i use it in a totally different way that wont work? yeah but how do i MAKE it work the way i want? what the fuck why is it broken now?"

your first posts followed the EXACT same pattern of "i bought this thing, now what"
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>>2996464
PLA doesn't melt in my car unless it's directly in the windshield on the dash and then only on the hottest days in direct sun. I spent two weeks with a large turtle on the front bull bar of my van and the C channel I made to connect it softened s.t. I had to use zip ties to keep it under pressure but the turtle itself wasn't damaged or melted at all. Last I had a plain PLA mailbox handle that lasted for 3 years before crumbling. Direct sun 330 days a year.

PLA isn't butter it's not going to melt just because you leave it in your car.
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>>2996573
NTA but anons in this thread have stated before that the air inside a car parked in the summer will get up past 50C. I don't know if I blelieve them. Black prints with sunlight incident on them are going to get hot, but if they can't absorb that light I think they'd be fine.
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My Print stopped at 87% with 2 Hours still left on the clock, because i ran out of filament. It stopped in a state where it has the error message popped up, while steal heats the bad and noz(?). How long can i let it in this state and wait for the new filament to arrive? I mean it run overnight like that and i'm sure it won't burn down, but the noise is just annoying
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>>2996588
leaving your printer on overnight makes mustard gas anon.
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>>2996588
manually access to the settings and put the nozzle temp down ?
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>>2996590
Down to 0? Also Bed Temp up?
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>>2996588
I've had coworkers leave our store printer (K1C) running in a runout state for like a week, seems to be fine, but the remnant filament in the nozzle goes kinda burnt so you have to purge extra. If you can control it, set the nozzle down to 0 and leave the bed at the print temperature so nothing comes detached.
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Can i smooth, PLA prints with a acetone vaper box? Way to lazy to sand today
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>>2996605
Might work better with chloroform or ethyl acetate. PLA is a finicky in that it tends to get the pigment dissolved before the filament itself.



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