Hey /diy/,I want to frame a shipping container, not to live it but just turn it into a barI want to frame it, then put some cheap board up and put reclaimed wood I have layjng arou d as a feature wall/sIta not going to be air-tight after I cut the windows in but I have hears that condensation from the cold steel and air-cavity between the feamjng can lead to rotWith all the effot I am putting in Id hate to have to pull it all apart in a few yearsWhat should I do? Is it a problem if I am not living in it but just occasionally use it a few times a year?
>>2994601what climate?I'd just spray the framing with some non-toxic lite duty anti-mold/fungus, and install flow-through vents to outside and make sure everything can breath. Put "decorative" little vents, 1" holes, top and bottom of each bay.Use top holes for hanging S-hooks, for hanging coats and Christmas light strings.Don't place box so downhill is water tight.
Use metal studs. It will be loud as fuck in there, but its your best total option. Imo. The other option I can think of off the top of my head is attach a vapor underlayment to the studs facing the casing. You would have to assemble the wall on the ground and move it into its place. But that's not hard. You don't need to necessarily attach the interior walls to the exterior, prevent holes that need proper patching, if you attach the top and bottom plate to box. That way you can put shitty caulk and tape above and below but not on the sides and everyone will see how awesome your tin can is
Use ripped 2x4 for studs, so essentially "2x2" studs. Prep the surface of the container for applying liquid nails or similar adhesive, then evenly coat the entire stud face and evenly clamp it to the wall using a bunch of truck load locks or similar.Then buy a 2 part insulating foam kit, it's expensive but fuck it. Spray the entire inside, filling up between the studs 100%.Then when hard just come in and saw off the foam flush with the face of rhe studs and apply wall.The trick with containers is to eliminate the possibility of air touching the metal.
If you decide to buy a ductless head for AC, you should downsize it versus what you think k you’d need for that space. That way it’ll have time to run and dehumidify. You should probably buy some actual dehumidifiers too
>>2996688Why not use rigid foam panels instead of expansion foam? Seems like it might be cheaper and less waste.
>>2997922>The trick with containers is to eliminate the possibility of air touching the metal.I imagine he means with ridge foam there will always be water condensing on the inside. 1/2 year you will have wet walls and CEILING behind the ridge foam, and even if your interior dew-point only lasts a few hours, it will take more hours to dry, if it ever does.I'd engineer some positive yet filtered, constant flow through venting.
>>2998011It's going to happen with expansion foam, too. Seems like an overblown problem though. Massive amounts of condensation are only happening in rapid temperature changes, which really shouldn't be an issue.
>>2998016?unless he heats the fucking thing in winter in which case he will have tons of condensationframing the interior of a container seems retarded, just build a normal structure to whatever size you want, ur not saving money buying a container
>>2998080>unless he heats the fucking thing in winterThat would be a rapid temperature change, possibly. But it's unlikely a shipping container is going to have the thermal mass. Doesn't sound like he's going to be heating it anyway. But using your analogy, anon, your car will rust apart just sitting because the panels and insulation will keep the moisture trapped. It's just not how it works. I agree framing it seems rather pointless, though. At most it might reduce the noise, but unless someone is beating on the walls with a hammer, it shouldn't be that bad.
