Hey /diy/. I mentioned this in one of the threads but felt it would just be better if I put up a dedicated thread instead of steering the one I was in off-topic. I have an old Black & Decker drill with a metal shell of some kind with a riveted on old Black & Decker badge from the factory from an era I'm not sure about. It belonged to my grandfather but I inherited it after he passed. Should I restore it? It's corded as you would expect from such an era, and I have some experience with maintenance.
>>2994770looks fine just plug it in and use it
>>2994773Not a chance. For all I know that thing has the live shorted to the case.
>>2994774bitch
>>2994775
>>2994770restore it? or refurbish it. restore mean bring back to factory new.replace the cord with a 3 prong, and the ground wire to the case. take it apart and replace the grease. clean it and it should be fine.the plastic handle indicates it is very late 60's or early 70's.
>>2994779Sounds solid. I'll do that tomorrow. What kind of grease would work? White lithium?
>>2994780I would use wheel bearing grease but unless you are going to feed her the onions that would probably work ok.
>>2994782Got it. I'll get some grease from the store tomorrow then. That'll also give me time to try and find the manual for the thing.My grandfather had a plethora of workshops and garages at his house. I would've loved to have something like that but it's location is a huge no for me. Oh well, would've been awesome back in the day. He knew I was into tools halfway through middle school, so he gave me his stuff as final parting gift. Absolute chad. Old and frail and stubborn as he was, I wouldn't trade those memories for anything. He only passed in 2022, but man. Anyway, thanks for the advice. I think the first thing I'm going to do is give the outside a good cleaning and degreasing with water and soap.
>>2994770That is a mid 1990s drill. It was a special edition that DeWalt ran, which is why it has a DeWalt tag on the power cord. Picture related is what that drill looked liked in the real 'Winged Nut' logo era. The only plastic on it was the caps covering the brushes. Note also that the dataplate has the ZIP code for the B&D HQ on it. Those were introduced in 1963. The Winged Nut logo was retired in 1960.Black and Decker so ruined their reputation with shitty, low end tools that they rebranded their 'Professional' line of tools DeWalt. Previously, the name was used for radial arm saws. It wasn't until 1992 that B&D started using it for things like drills and circular saws. The DeWalt line of tools was literally the exact same tools that B&D had been selling the year before, just with new colors. This model was a little throwback they did for an anniversary. They also did a 14v cordless drill with a highly polished solid aluminum shell.
>>2994796Very interesting. Are you perhaps a collector or just blessed with the autism? Either way, nice read.
>>2994798Just a collector with ADHD. When you get into old tools you learn that B&D used to be one of the top power tools companies. Just like Stanley was with hand tools and Rockwell/Delta was with shop tools. I have a few of those 'heavy Duty' half inch drills. They were their 'compact' and 'light-weight' models. >>2994773 Were the full size ones. IIRC they sold drills that had up to 1 inch capacity chucks, could run on 220 volts, and even be installed in a stand to be used as a drill press. Primitive as fuck though. The early ones had one speed, no clutch, and extra long pistol grips so they wouldn't spin you around like something from a Live Leak video. Oh, and a real primo safety feature. A trigger lock that kept the drill spinning when you let go. I'm sure that didn't get anyone's arm dislocated back in the day.For a very short time they also made shop tools other than radial arm saws. They picked up DeWalt in 1960. Sometime later, the Atlas Press company decided to get out of making woodworking tools. They had bought Clausing a few years before and wanted to focus on metal working tools. The modern Clausing is really just Atlas Press renamed. They sold the operation to B&D who briefly ran it under the DeWalt name. They soon learned why Atlas was getting rid of it: tools from Taiwan were killing them. They shut it down and DeWalt went back to only being used on radial arm saws. By the late 1980s even that was too much so they sold the meat of DeWalt to an outside firm and, a few years later, decided to drape the skin of DeWalt over the failing professional tools line. That old compact half incher kept right on being made with the DeWalt name for a few years. Eventually everything moved over to Asia and that was the end of it. Now Stanley Black & Decker have near a dozen brands they use on a range of products and I don't think any of them are made in the USA anymore.
>>2994803Very insightful read. I suppose this drill from the 90s is somewhat neat instead of wow?
>>2994774>Not a chance. For all I know that thing has the live shorted to the case.I have an old metal case drill and it shocks you the whole time you try to use it (I don't use it)
I've got a few black and decker drills floating around. I'll have to try and remember to snap a pic of them. One of them (pretty sure it was a black and decker) has a morse taper on it. Plus I have at least one other big ass old drill of a different flavor but I can't think of the brand off the top of my head. There are zero planetary gearsets in those old ones. All spur gears.
>>2994784>That'll also give me time to try and find the manual for the thing.https://support.blackanddecker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012700118-How-can-I-get-a-parts-list-or-manual-for-my-tool
I'm such a retard I forgot to post the other side of the damn thing.
>>2994865
>>2994871Nice. Looks like I've got a place to get parts and the manual.
>>2994807Oh, it will drill a hole like no ones business. It is low RPM but high torque. When you need to drill a big hole in something I still use them.>>2994831Easy to fix. Old tools were made to be serviced. Notice that the drill is bolted together front to back? That means everything doesn't just fall out when you open it. The leftside/rightside case is designed for easy assembly on a line (generally by someone Chinese). Put one side down, drop in each component, slap the other side on, and use a machine that can drive 7 screws at once to secure it. The old drill were assembled by hand and could be serviced just as easily. Open the fuckeer up, check the wring, and replace what is loose. Might as well put a 3 prong cord on it while you are at it. Oh, and check the grease. Problem solved. These old drills don't have anything stupid in them, like PCBs or custom ICs that can't be replaced. Just some wire and a heavy duty switch to control it.>>2994865AC or DC. That means it is a universal motor. Not as efficient as a modern brushless motor but you could string together some car batteries and run it just fine. Or daisy chain five 24v tool batteries no problem. They are good on anything within 10% of that 120v rating. Often much broader than that. Heat is the concern. Too low and it doesn't spin fast enough to cool itself under long usage. Too high and you have the same issue but because the excess power is turned into heat.
>>2995080So this is good for removing screws?
>>2995081Nope. You want something with a clutch to remove or drive screws. This is for drilling holes.
>>2995086But it IS good for drill brushes, right?
