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Last thread -> >>2974706


Patch edition - Got a hole? We'll help you!


linktr(dot)ee/4chansewing <---- links and shit

Always remember, it doesn't have to be the theme, post your work, post what you want to talk about as long as it has something to do with sewing in general, or the craft in general. We welcome everyone and will try our best to help you out. Yes, sewing is an art, it's a practicing art, you will always suck at it, but remember that everyone starts somewhere, so Google everything! We also talk about cosplay creation, fursuits, and more. Everything sewing related is related, just don't be overly cringe.

Or just show off your work.

---------------------------------------------------------------
Your question may be stupid, but ask it anyway.
>>
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i just made some BULLLLLLLLSHITTTTTT!!
>>
>>2996366
Extremely cute
>>
Are you guys making your dad anything today? Or if you're a dad did your kids make you anything?
>>
>>2996152
how mighty is this
>>
>>2996640
You couldn't handle it anon
>>
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any plooshie makers in the thread?

when ur patterning darts, have u ever tried curved (as opposed to straight) darts? i've read that they're supposed to make a rounder finish, but have u ever noticed a difference?

pic rel
>>
>>2996366
But does it suck your dick?
>>
>>2996152
>Your question may be stupid, but ask it anyway.
At the risk of not looking at the linktree before work, how do I practice sewing up holes for clothes? Both for casual and work clothes? (aka clothes you don't give a fuck if the stitching shows and clothes where the sticking doesn't show.)
>>
>>2997064
I find it negligible (when sewing, I don't make patterns)
>>
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I want to recreate a rare shirt that I had stolen in the mail. Anyone know how to fuse like plastic/vinyl to a shirt to make a liquid filled pocket like pic related?
>>
why are these threads so frickin comfy, man.
always wanted to make fancy suits and shirts for men but have no idea of where to start, should i just read some pattern making books?
>>
>>2997652
Compared to the rest of 4chan, /diy/ I have noticed is not really about arguing. I mean "Do it yourself" and people are willing to help lately.

Also, get to it anon! I'm gonna start making cloaks soon
>>
>>2997652
Pattern making and suit making are both pretty advanced. I'd recommend finding a shirt pattern that you like and trying to make it. And watch a bunch of YouTube video tutorials about sewing skills to learn some basics (threading your machine, sewing a straight line properly, etc).

The Big 4 pattern companies (Simplicity, McCall's, Vogue, Butterick) are a pretty safe choice in that the patterns should be well-made, but their instructions are written with the assumption that the reader knows what they're doing, so they can be kinda hard to follow for a beginner. Indie pattern companies tend to have instructions that are easier to follow.

Also, avoid Etsy when looking for patterns. All the super cheap patterns on there were probably generated by AI and never tested by the person who's selling them. If the seller only shows you line art (and maybe a picture of one single finished garment that looks like it might be AI-generated), do not buy it. Decent pattern makers have people test their patterns out before they start selling them, and they'll have the pictures to prove it. Twig & Tale is a good example of this (although their style is probably not what you're going for). If you look at any of their patterns, you'll see a bunch of pictures of a bunch of different garments that were made from the pattern.
tldr: if the seller can't prove that people have successfully used a pattern, don't waste your time on it
>>
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Where the fuck do you cunts get male patterns? All the pirates have female shit cause, I get it, most of the people sewing are women. But I want a trucker jacket pattern that wont cost 40 bucks, why is this fucking hobby so expensive, I just wanna be a fag and make my own clothes!!!!!!
>>
>>2997872
>grab garment
>grab a lot of tacing paper
>aquire large, flat surface to lay garment
>put tracing paper over garment
>draw along the seams of the separate pieces of garment (sleeves, front, back, whatever)
>measure to match/correct lines
>add needed seam allowance around seams
pattern aquired. go wild
>>
I've had this three piece suit for a few years, and while I've never had the chance to use it (or willingness to be fair), I wanted to fix the only defect it has.
The vest's back is made of two panels, and the top is fraying open like in the picture, how could I come around fixing it in a way that won't alter the size much? I was thinking of finding a similar fabric to use an auxiliary piece so the thread has some actual material to latch onto, but that may be stupid and not useful
>>
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>>2997888
fuck me backwards, I forgot the picture
>>
>>2997887
I mean I know how to make a pattern out of something I own but this is something I don't want to buy. And that's what I'm struggling with. Guess I'll have to bite the bullet and buy it.
>>
>>2997891
>buy garment at a place with good refund policy
>do >>2997887
>return garment
>free pattern
>>
>>2997891
Get something that has the size and shape you want from Goodwill for cheap and disect that fucker. It doesn't need to be the right color, fabric, etc.
>>
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>>2997872
I graduate from Bunka Fashion College so I draft anything I want, if you can read Japanese their patternmaking textbooks are available in bookstores but missing critical details and certain instructions are straight up wrong.
>>
>>2997928
>minor typo in "graduated"
Well, off to kill myself.
>>
>>2997872
Easy. Load up some kind of program like visio. Drop the picture on it. Using the drawing tool to map the outline, you want the dimensions. You need a length/width measurement so you can scale the units correctly between the software and reality, and don't forget angles.

Once you have the measurements, load up some CAD program, I use inventor. Layout the pattern pieces in CAD. Once you have the CAD done, just layout the fabric you need with a ruler / protractor and mark it with a fabric pencil.

This is the way I do it and it eliminates the need for gay ass tracing paper and all other kinds of shit.

Only catch is you need to learn a little bit of 2D CAD if you don't know it, which is trivial for clothes patterns.

I challenge anyone to come up with a better solution than this. You don't need any patterns or paper or any of that nonsense.
>>
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>>2997958
And here's an example, basic cargo vest. You only need one side for the front if it's symmetric. The back you just need to mirror the pattern and change the neck for whatever you want.
>>
I'm gonna go to Office Depot tomorrow and get a big ass cloak pattern tomorrow
>>
>>2998031
Do me a favor and check out if they still sell cassette players
>>
As someone who has never sewed anything before how hard would it be to make a handkerchief? I plan on using it primarily to dab my forehead whenever i start sweating too much
>>
>>2997064
Late on this, but plushmaker here. I've always just done straight darts, largely for the convenience of sewing them. I'm already sewing so many curves elsewhere, I can't be assed with doing more on the face.

That said, try it out and experiment. If it works better for you, go for it
>>
>>2998128
Dude, just go to walmart and get for less than 2 dollars. Everything you would get to make it will cost you nearly over 1000xs more. I know you want to do it, but as you said, you gave never sewn so you likely do not have anything, no extra fabric, no needles, no spare anything. Wait till you get all the extra stuff like a lot of us we have.

This right now is more about saving money.
>>
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>>2997064
Yeah, I use curved darts where necessary but I guess it's always the goal to create the highest possible quality. I never pre-cut darts like in your pic, though. Always sew and then dart if necessary for the fabric (I skip it entirely with moth bodies because I accidentally fucked the mohair pile before pulling it out of the seam too many times kek.)

My day job has basically shut down for the last week of financial year, so I've had heaps of time to smash out some projects I've had lined up for ages.
>>
>>2998263
Now sew the moth's pregnant and happy.
>>
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Haven’t sewed in 2 years and got a commissioned and made a whole skirt from memory.
>>
>>2998309
What's the closure on it? Invisible zipper?
>>
Where do you anons buy your fabric? Does anyone know a good place to get printed fabrics like roughcut uses?

Right now I've got two bolts of some dark green and almost-black fabric I got from walmart years ago when I needed to make a costume. It feels vaguely like a thin canvas. I'm thinking about using it to make some stuff, a work apron, maybe some pants (although I'm sure the crotch will blow out in no time as always happens). I'm sure it's shit material but I just have so much of it
>>
>>2998601
Walmart and Hobby Lobby when it's on sale. I wouldn't worry about fabric that much, you can always patch it, gives it character. I think in terms of function and utility rather than appearance.
>>
>>2998601
I go to real fabric stores but you have to be judicious about what you buy.

Quilting stores are fairly common but are often in out-of-the-way spots for cheaper rent.
>>
>>2998601
Hobby Lobby, they have a huge selection now, they have sales every other week, 30% off.

also Fine Fabrics.
>>
>>2997958
paper isn't gay computers are gay
>>
>>2997872
are those fleece insides just a liner
>>
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>>2998525
pretty much don't have that skirt anymore, I already shipped it out but i have another skirt i made awhile back with the same zipper & button set up.
>>
>>2996152
Hi guys, I'm a moron who doesn't know shit about fuck. I might need to do some repair work on a photography vest in the near future. What kind of thread do I buy that's extremely tough? There are apparently a trillion different kinds of thread and all I want is "won't break, compatible with normal needle technology."
>>
>>2998912
https://ripstopbytheroll.com/collections/thread-tools-repair/products/gutermann-mara-70
>>
>>2998921
I knew you guys would fucking deliver. Thanks, anon.
>>
>>2998629
>I wouldn't worry about fabric that much, you can always patch it, gives it character

So every pair of pants I own (I have like 8 pairs like this now, levis and carhartt's mostly) always has a fabric failure in crotch kind of where the thighs rub together. It's a really unattractive spot to bring attention to with a patch and usually the only place that fails, and the main reason I'm concerned about fabric quality unfortunately
>>
>>2998969
I'm not a girl but isn't that what skirts and dresses are for?
>>
>>2998927
If you don't care how it looks and you are a cheap piece of shi- I mean, "value concious", dental floss. Great for field repairs too. Or even stitching up a deep cut. Boil it or soak it in isopropyl alcohol or some such before that last one though.
>>
>>2999713
Did you know everytime you cut your teeth with floss you dose your brain with microplastics? It's true, it came to me in a dream...
>>
>>2998969
Yeah, crotch blowout is a thing. The better advice is to get pants with a better ride to them so it doesn't rub between your legs as much.

That being said, still an easy enough fix for these with a patch folks can't see. What I've done for my jeans that have blowouts is pin a piece of scrap denim inside, then just tack it on with some stitching from outside. Next, get some thread the pretty well matches your jeans, drop the feed dogs, and just start zigzagging back and forth across the hole, following the grain of the denim best you can. This helps secure the patch down and blend it in, so folks don't even see it unless they've got their face up in your crotch.
>>
Weird combination of interests but anyone here got any ideas on where to put lockpicks so that they are both accessible but also not discoverable on a body search?
Was thinking of adding some hidden pockets or something or some place on my leather wallet between the folds. Preferably for it to be on something that is edc’d like the wallet or a backpack.
>>
>>2998756
As opposed to what nigga? A shearling? Get out of here ayy lmao
>>
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>>2996152
how would i find/sew on a sort of external pocket onto my bag?
>>
>>3000222
Google "patch pocket" tutorials. For a bag you will need sturdy needles, some polyester thread rated for outdoor fabrics, and probably oxford cloth for the material. Plus the hardware of any flap closure.
>>
What are some brands or general red flags in terms of sewing machines? I'm looking into snagging a secondhand one but don't want to fuck myself in the ass with a piece of shit
>>
>>3000278
Are you looking at home sewing machines, or industrial ones?
>>
>>3000292
Home machines
>>
>>2998309
bro thats a kilt
>>
>>3000278
anything by walmart, but not sold by walmart. All else fails (I hate myself for saying this) but google it and if there's feddit thread, check it.
>>
>>3000230
thank you!!!!!!!!
>>
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>>2996152
Would anyone know how to make this v neck into a crew neck? The v neck isn’t too deep or noticeable but you can tell it’s a v neck.
>>
>>3000379
>take white shirt or shirt with a color you like or matches the shirt
>cut off the front of the collar maybe to around the shoulder seam
>if you're bad at sewing sew at the shoulder seam of the shirt to hide the stiching
>if you're good at hiding stitching then just stitch it on the front that follows the collar
>pay attention to shirt thickness when choosing your shirt
>use think shirts or preferably undershirts as they are thin and light
>also it'll look like you have a faux undershirt on
>>
so this is kind of unique and i cant seem to find anything online about this specifically. im sewing long pile (2") faux fur that has a knit backing. it is terribly succeptible to fraying, particularly while machine sewing it or manipulating it once cut because there is so much bulk on its right side. id like to try and prevent this fraying (particularly for a few stitches through non-fabric/very thick materials) to preserve strength. so far my only thoughts are to either sew on a tape backing out of a woven fabric to take in some of the tension from the stitches, or to use a fusible hem tape to "glue" the raw edge into position before machine sewing it. do any of you have experience with this? im planning on testing this out later this week, but if anyone has any wisdom about preventing knit fabrics from fraying id love to hear it.
>>
>>3000444
I suggest ChatGPT, Gemini, or grok (use their actual sites and not directly on twitter) to do some digging for you. Good way to compile data like this sometimes. Are you trying to find this or know more stuff about if? I'll dig up what I can if I can for you dude.

Also, btw, what are you making anon?
Another fursuiter by chance?

https://blog.shannonfabrics.com/blog/2019/09/16/faux-fur-sewing-tips

https://www.fleecefun.com/how-to-sew-faux-fur-tips-tricks/
>>
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>>3000278
I'm hardly an expert but because no one else has replied to you yet, any cheapest tier (£100-£125) current model of a brand you've heard of (Singer, Brother) should be avoided. Singer still has some stuff which is completely fine for moderate home use though, at the £250 sort of range (which of course, you can look those up and get a second hand one).
It's tricky getting opinions straight from people online, because some of them are just using it, maybe once a month, and some of them are using it 8 hours a day every day. For the latter, that £250 tier of Singer's isn't going to cut it, but for you, it probably will.
The HD4423 is/was quite popular, so you might find those available second hand. All metal internals which is a plus point. Apparently they still break more often than some other machines, but again, this is from people who do sewing machine repair as a job so they'll have a skewed opinion, and when you hear repairmen saying they see a lot of HD4423s you've got to remember, it's largely sampling bias. There's just a ton of them out there.
I got my wife a Singer H6335M which she is happy with. She likes that is is a top loader, pulls the fabric through pretty smoothly (she used to have a sewing machine as a kid that did neither) and can sew through thick materials if she needs or go slower and more delicate too without problems.
Anyway, you'll probably be fine with most anything that doesn't look like picrel.
>>
redpill me on knitting machines
>>
So, what are some good places to find patterns to manually sew? I want to sew a small bag to carry my earphones as I don't want them to be destroyed by the keys and pocket change in my bag.
>>
>>3001130
Is there something wrong with "get rectangle of fabric, fold it in half, sew up the sides, leave a space at the top for a drawstring/flap"?
>>
>>3001130
that's pretty specific you might need to just do it like other anon said. I've watched this channel on youtube and they sell patterns, you could scale down one of the bag patterns.
https://countrycowdesigns.com/bag-sewing-patterns
>>
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>>3000278
Honestly, anon, every experience I've had with a modern (80s+) machine that was primarily plastic has ended in profound frustration when they inevitably snap something inside and are impossible to open and self-repair. Take 'em to an approved proprietary repair center, oops, sorry, we don't service these any more. Give it to us for a credit and buy a new plastic shit-heap instead! :^)

Anyway, now I own 4 Singer 201s. Simple to maintain, repair, and use. A smoother, calmer motor/foot controller than any of the new domestic motors/controllers I've found available online (and I've tried all of them at this point.)
>>
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>>3001208
hehe I thought this was the one with the machine in it
>>
I want to fix a bag like a fanny bag. I had sharp objects inside and they wore holes into it. I have checked the construction and made a pattern for the defective panel.
I would like some advice before I go on:
Should I simply patch the holes?
Replace the panel or double it up and if dthe later, should I open the seam that holds it all together or will I get into trouble trying to get it all back together and be better of cutting the new panel just a bit short and doubling it onto the old one?
Oh also if I end up doubling it up: Its waterproofed fabric. Rubberized on one side. Usually the waterproof side is protected from abrasion. Now as it turns out the bag is subject to abrasion from the environment as well as the objects inside. So if I end up doubling the panel up, should I just put the new one in the 'wrong way round' so that both ciated sides face each other and the more resistant sides face in and out?
>>
>>3000818
they are awesome mechanically and jinematically and can do amazeballs things you never thought possible, like 3D knits and entire seamless sweaters and similar objects in one go.
Simple ones do tubular of flat and that's it.
>>
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>>3001247
This is said bag. It has two main compartments. The holes are at the marked location. It was mostly a spanner wrench inside that rubbed through.
>>
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>>3001336
I'm clueless about sewing but I believe the two compartments were constructed first and then joined at the one main seam that holds everything together. The seam with this webbing.
I am unsure wether to open this seam and wether I will get it back together and can reuse the band and all that.
>>
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>>3001337
The defective panel seems to be, upon closer inspection, rectangular and box shaped despite the pillowcase look of the finished product. Much like what I have folded here. The corners would be sewn and the excess ears trimmed.
I know I risk repeating myself:
Should I go the easy route and just cut a patch to cover the holes and patch them?
Should I open the main seam and everything that holds the defective panel and replace it, can a noob do it?
Should I perhaps double up. the defective panel, this way I could leave original seams undisturbed and just slap on a panel on the inside to back the old one up?
In the later case: Should I put it in such that the coated side faces away from the contents of the bag which will easily erode it? I'd expect the mostly intact outer panel to do a better job of protecting the coating from the environment than I'd expect it to stand up to items rubbing against it.
Or should I orient it just like the existing one, rough side facing the coated side if the existing panel?
>Picrel:
What the contents of the bag do to the coating.
>>
>>3001336
A piece of duct tape on the inside while a new one ships from amazon?
>>
>>3001366
Nope thats not possible currently for reasons and besides that
>brave new world
and lastly however I end up fixing it jt will be a more involved sewing project than anything before aka I can learn
>>
Thinking of starting with the hobby and have one of picrel sitting around... What can you (or can't you) do with them?
>>
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>be me
>go to goodwill
>see a 1936 production singer model 91-30 in a wooden cabinet for $14
>wood is in rough shape
>machine looks okayish but im unsure, this is my first sewing machine
>purchase it
>sand the wood down and refinish with stain and light shellac, looks good
>print out a 91-30 manual
>it says "use singer oil" so i order some, put droplets in every hole the manual tells me to
>it just works
>practised on some scrap
>hemmed some pants that were too long
>to me having a sewing machine fills a role just like me owning a welder even if i suck at it

I do have a crotch rip i got from jumping across a stream that i need to sew. I noticed that the motor isnt as snappy and struggles on thicker fabric, is that something i should replace (as in the whole motor), or possibly just use motor lube or possibly redo the copper wires inside the motor?

I also found a singer buttonholer at goodwill and whilst garage saling, i asked some random lady if she had singer sewing supplies and she gave me a couple boxes that included unopened patterns from the 70s, some random parts and a bunch of manuals. Is there an attachment like a buttonholer that can let me sew cool cross stitches or something more sturdy?

>inb4 shitty ai artwork
>>
>>3001209
>>3001208
>Anyway, now I own 4 Singer 201s
ooo hai im >>3001676, have you had to buy replacement motors? Or should i try to repair mine?
Also i really like your mushroom figures and that pear with the googlie eyes
>>
>>3001679
>replacement motor
what do you expect to go wrong in a sewing machine motor such that you require a new one?
If it's brushed maybe check the brushes. Else make sure it spins free. Bot much else that can make it not completely fail but be weak.
>>
>>3001676
If the motor isn't noisy but just weak then it may just need some new brushes and the commutator cleaned and polished. When putting it back together I would avoid adding any more oil than is absolutely necessary, it can gunk up and cause more problems than it helps. Brushes are pretty standard so you should be able to measure the size and buy them from someplace like amazon or aliexpress. Also take note of any washers when taking apart the motor so you can them back in the right place when reassembling.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OcpWK1XLvE0
>>
>>3001813
I have all of those clearly, I just use them directly on the fabric. I have zero need for paper because the software allows you derive all the dimensions. Visio (and other programs like it) allow you to copy any design on the internet. CAD let's you work out all the other dimensions. Hell, at some point people can just run it through a CNC to cut the fabric at scale.

They didn't use any of this before because it didn't exist. You're welcome to use your old methods, it's still inferior by orders of magnitude.
>>
>>3001854
to be fair using CNC has bothing to do with analog or comouter aided design. Dude can design his shit on a napkin and write some gcode based on his geometry.
>>
>>3001432
It can probably do most things you would need. I have never seen this one before but it looks like a typical straight stitch machine. Does it have reverse/backtack? That's always convenient to have.
Just use it, do some simple projects and see how far you can get with it. If you never used this specific machine before, be sure to give it some care like cleaning and oiling according to it's instructions.
>>
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Been using my Singer 99k a bit for simple things. I have been buying a lot of cheap fabric that I will use in decoration for a market stall. So all I need is to hem the edges but it's surprisingly tricky to do a neat job over a long straight edge.
Then I discovered one of the feet I have is an adjustable hemmer, tried it out and looks way neater than the hems I did with pins and basting stitches. Downside is that it's a little fiddly to use, and again tricky to do really long edges because the fabric can walk out of the foot if you don't feed it in properly.
I guess it all boils down to experience, huh?
>>
>>3001339
bump
>>
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>>2996152
Boys i need your help. Newfriend to the hobby here, i got a singer iirc a 2405 ish, a slightly above basic device. I did a lot of sewing with it up untilll i tried to sew cordura together. My mashine no longer loops the thread from the underside and the top moving needle no matter what i do just rips the thread at the first to third stitch. Is there any maintenance video or guide or infographic on what i could try to do to get the functionality back ? Anyone of you fine gentlemen ever dealt with something like that ?
>>
>>3002058
>google for me pls
no.
see if you can apot something weird in the timing first. Simply check how bobbin thing, needle and transporter interact with each other
>>
>>3002058
Get a tougher needle, I deal witha lot of hard fabric, I suggest looking for a 110/18, it's all I use and I virtually have no issues with it. Also check yuor machine inside and see if you've bird's nested or you have a LOT of lint inside. It happens.
>>
>>3001732
>>3001676
>>3001680
That guy could also have some bearing going bad in the motor. Those are a bit more involved than what someone who does a girl’s hobby like sewing is used to but is doable.
Do those old singer machines also need grease? Anon said just smth about putting oil in them.
>>
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>>3002698
>Do those old singer machines also need grease? Anon said just smth about putting oil in them.
goodwill model 91-30 finder here. Yes the manual calls for regular oil in specific holes, which was all that was needed to get it operational. Supposedly the electric motor takes oil as well but i havent looked into it, i'm just now noticing that it isnt very strong as it should be as i make repairs on tougher clothing. Ngl my ideal would be a singer treadle but when i saw it at goodwill, i couldnt say no.
>Those are a bit more involved than what someone who does a girl’s hobby like sewing is used to but is doable
im a guy. I'm not good at sewing but I got it to make quick work of repairs (and i have the room for it). Like, i have a stick welder, and im not very good at that either but im glad i have it when i need it. To me its just another tool.
>>
>>3002702
Some of the old singer motors with a worm gear do need some grease. If yours has it then I would change it out. Personally I use red high temp bearing grease since I have it when working on my car and have a whole tub of it. Some people say you need some special sort of grease but it's a lot better than that white or gray shit they used originally that dries out. If you do decide to clean the commutator then another thing I should have mentioned is to scrape between all the little contact bars with a dental pick or paper clip. After years of use the residue from the brushes can build up between them and look almost like bakelite or something but since it's carbon it shorts the contacts and robs the motor of power. It's tricky because sometimes it's smoothed over so well that it looks like it belongs there. Also, as far as bearings go some old machines don't have bearings in the motor but instead have little solid brass bushings. Since the stainless shaft is harder than the brass it doesn't really wear down much. The brass is softer than the stainless but hard enough that it doesn't wear much either; it's part of what made older machines quieter than they appear. Oil on that shaft though will harden due to the heat and create even more friction so that's why I warned about too much oil in the motor. If your motor needs it then it will be in the manual, otherwise they're generally 'maintenance-free'.
>>
>>3002787
i'll look into that red grease, thanks. I already have both dental picks and some sturdier picks, but i havent taken the motor apart yet
>>
so I'm making a tail and my needle got stuck so bad that I had to break it with a pair of wire cutters. This is a first
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>>3002913
I break so many needles I would cry if I had to cut one; the most stuck I've had one was when a birdsnest underneath was so bad I had to take the bobbon, bobbin holder/shuttle out and start cutting everything like a machete cutting through a jungle. My needles usually break from the left/right/center lever being in the wrong position for a fancy stitch I'm trying out.
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>>2996152
i've made some bloomers from an old skirt!
im a newbie in sewing too, but my mom was very proud i made those elasting things goot may 2 time doing them
>>2996366
thats very cute!

>>3001432
i recently got an old sewing machne like this, i might upload the photo later, but its very old and i dont know if i can use it, its from my aunt and its very old
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>>3002787
Not him but i wanted to ask cause I’ve had issues with a motor that had sparks at the brushes and now I’m trying to fix it, should I be cleaning between the copper bars that the brushes slide on?
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>>3002962
Nice work nigga
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>>3003024
Yeah, scrape out as much residue as you can and really polish that commutator good. A dirty commutator or worn/stuck brushes are almost the culprits in sparking motors. Clean it well with some contact cleaner and make sure the rounded profile of the brushes matches up when putting it back together. There's plenty of videos to watch, whether they're for sewing machine motors, drill motors or anything else the concepts are the same so if you watch a few you'll understand the general do's and don'ts.
>>
anyone know of good bespoke tailor books on mainly construction and techniques? i might pay 100 euros for the book by sebastian hoofs
>>
>>2997928
i kneel, fashion school is so enticing but ik for me its not feasible financially and im just learning everything on my own
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>>3003049
I did polish the commutator but that didn’t really fix it so I actually took the motor off to replace the bearings, cause I thought since it had old bearings maybe they were wobbling dunno. It was also full of lime dust since it was a vacuum, brushes had a dusty white color to them, don’t know how to clean that off.
>>
I can't for the life of me find good overalls near me that fit me, so I'm going to have to break out the old sewing machine. Where should I order fabric for work clothes
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>>3001336
Bump!
Really no one that can tell me if it is feasible for a absolute beginner to break those seams and replace the panel, for a clean look or if I am better advised to just slap a patch on the inside and live with the obvious repair?
From that I have seen: I will have to break the seam with the webbing that goes all around, maybe more, and remove the zipper and keep it. Then put the new panel in and put it all back together.
>>
>>3003139
Nigga it’s torn what do you have to lose?
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>>3003139
As a beginner I would not recommend trying to replace the entire unless it's just an experiment on a bag you'll throw out anyways with replacement material you got for free. Putting a patch on is much more beginner friendly which means you're more likely to succeed and build up confidence to try larger tasks. As with any hobby start small and work your way up.
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>>3003146
>what do you have to loose
The whole thing. When I take it apart only to then find out I can not get it back together.
>>3003148
Mhmkay I will do that. I did prepare the panel already but I figure I can always come back and put that in.
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>>3003205
Nigga stop being a puss and jump into the fire
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>>3001679
>>3001676
Shit, sorry anon I never came back. I haven't had to replace any of my original Singer motors - I have bought a bunch of 'modern' domestic machine motors online to try to replace OTHER vintage brands (like Wernard) and honestly they've all been shit. Stop-start 1000RPM unusable garbage. :') That's why I started collecting cheap original Singer motors, because they really are the best. As other anons have said, you can open it up and clean the commutator and replace the brushes (Order a bulk lot of generic carbon brushes on Ebay, gently file the sides down until they fit. The Singer needs a 1x1 square while most modern ones are slightly rectangular.)

Unless the commutator is already fucked (Google how to clean one with a power drill and fine grit sandpaper) I'd recommend a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser or off-brand equivalent. You want that copper as SMOOTH as possible, so always start with the finest grit available.
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>>3002702
>Ngl my ideal would be a singer treadle
I only recently learned that the treadles are supposedly super rare in the US. I have three of them disassembled in my garage that I don't know what to do with lmao. Will probably set one up eventually.
>>3002787
>Some of the old singer motors with a worm gear
Do you mean the potted motors? At that point you can't really just change it out, you'd have to adapt to add either an external or modern servo.

>Those are a bit more involved than what someone who does a girl’s hobby like sewing is used
oh no my vagina locked on now i'm stuck at the surface level of a singular hobby forever :'( all of my ram must be going to my innate genetic memory of cleaning methods
>>
>>3003397
These are the motors I'm talking about; they are potted motors but they can be repacked and rebuilt.
https://vssmb.blogspot.com/2011/12/how-to-re-wire-potted-motor-part-11.html
>>
Hey homies, come to check in on you guys, whatchyall workin on this week?
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>>3003397
They can't be that rare, my dad collected a ton of them about a decade ago. Then he lost interest and my mom has been steadily clearing them out to go to people that will use them
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holy shit hell yeah. just when i needed the most :D. I'm doing a sewing course for the first time. But I actually started doing sewing and repairing my own stuff like 3 months ago only. these one where my first try in 2 diferent types of invisible stitches. i'm super newbie on it but i feel like I improved a lot. Also i'm learning how to use a sewing machine. I hope i buy one soon!
my main goal is be able to make plushies, dollclothes, easy fabric clothing, like gloves/socks and the sorts.
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>>3003562
Not a terrible start, I suggest working on a cleaner stitch. Those are VERY wide stitches
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>>2997872
I mean you might be able to find stuff on myanonamouse idk I usually dont make male patterns ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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>>2998263
Mind sharing the instructions for sewing these beautiful creatures?
>>
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/NM8XOscP6Mo
Am I crazy or is this very easy to do?
Guy seems to use a hot iron to fold the extra fabric inside, some fabric glue and then regular thread and needle.
Good designs aside, is there anything I'm overlooking?
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>>3003736
>https://www.youtube.com/shorts/NM8XOscP6Mo
Forgot to attach an example
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Despite my mother showing me 300 times how to thread the sewing machine I'm still somehow too retarded to do it properly.
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>>3003504
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>>3003769
we're slow learners sometimes, it's ok
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>>3001676
>singer model 91-30
Wut
Post a pic of the machine w/ serial number.

>singer buttonholer
There's a similar bulky thing that makes zig zag stitches.
The buttonhole attachment is kind of a more specific zig zag attachment. Like, the two long sides of the buttonhole are just a very tight zig zag.

>cross stitches or something more sturdy
If you have one line of very tight zig zag, it's typically called a 'bar tack'.
If you look at a pair of jeans, you'll see several examples. Top corners of the butt pockets, belt loops, bottom of the crotch zip.
It's a very common strategy for reinforcing highly stressed areas. Rivet is the next step.

>>3002702
>electric motor takes oil
Motors that need oil typically have oil cups, or "vented bolts" where the oil will drip down to the shaft.
A pic of the actual hardware would be useful.
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Newbie question; I have a thick border to sew onto a ⅓ circle skirt, the outer circumference of which is ~2.5m / 98".

Do I use rectangular strips or circular material wasting ones to minimise creases?
>>
>>3003127
>fit me
What's the issue? Long torso, thick thighs, etc?
Are you actually putting these on top of other clothes?
Can bibs & a long sleeve shirt work, as an alternative?
>>
>>3001339
>What the contents of the bag do to the coating
Not just abrasion. Moisture (like, atmosphere... humidity) causes that kind of coating to degrade.
Cordura/other PU coated fabrics are mostly convenient for their properties, but they always come with a lifespan.

>>3003139
>break those seams and replace the panel
>slap a patch on the inside
Each sewn-in side of that panel came with seam allowance.
Part will be covered with the grosgrain (seam trim), but it's likely that part was cut away.

Kind of, give yourself a bit of margin, but the trim has a fixed width, any excess, you have to cut it away before applying the grosgrain.
With the new panel, you can give yourself this allowance again. But the panels it connects to, you have to work with "what's left".

If you sew over the exact line of stitching, you can cause a perforation effect.
I'm sure you get some kind of tax document in the mail, with a "tear here" line. Poke enough holes in any fabric, and you'll get that.
You can probably do it once, but "repeated repairs"... you have to correct the root cause (issue is design or use).

>slap on a panel on the inside to back the old one up
More like put a 'boot' (old piece of innertube) on your wrench that caused the hole in the first place. Or make a tool roll, put that inside the bag.

>>3003205
>what do you have to loose
>The whole thing.
Kind of the opposite.
If you take it apart non-destructively, you have a de facto pattern for the bag.

From that point you can: remake it from different materials, correct design flaws, add features you want, customize it to your needs.

There used to be a bike bag company out of Columbus OH called Seagull. One of the first things I 'copied' was one of their messenger bags.
A friend had one, but the bottom was blown out. I agreed to "fix it", with the understanding that it involved complete dissasembly, and that he would get a new copy, I would get a new copy.
He acted like I had some superpower.
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>>3004576
>you have a de facto pattern for the bag
Comment too long.

If you don't get what I mean, I have an old Black Diamond pack that I need to remake.
I won't take it apart until it gets cold.
But I could take some pics, make some drawings, do a series of posts. How to disassemble a bag & copy it to a new one.
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>>3004576
Hey man, thanks for the input, it's appreciated.
I get what you're saying and I fully agree. It's not like those concepts were entirel, mew to me.
It's only those two things:
As a noob I can simply not judge wether I get it back together at all and can reuse everything, it's not like I have spare zippers, grossgrain or any such stuff.
>toolroll
that's on the bucket list
Either way I'm putting this aside. Got a new job lined up far from home, I won't be able to bring anything like the machine and won't need the bag for a while either.
Thanks again man.
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>>3004586
>It's not like those concepts were entirel, mew to me.
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>>3004621
fag
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>>3004573
you could cut rectangular and steam iron them into a curved shape, similar to how people shape curved waistbands
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>>3005033
How well does this work? Wouldn't they return to their original form?
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>>2996152
How "worth it" is it to learn to use a machine? I sew by hand and darn by hand. I'm shit but my work is more functional / modifying gear. I got a machine that looks decent, but I have no idea where to start.

Also also, how do you guys end/tie off sewing and darning? So far I just do a few back and forths while sewing, but like leave a loop on the opposite end to be able to reloop back into to lock it. Then I cut then tie off. Idk if that made sense. When it comes to darning I leave a long/ugly tail and hope friction just keeps it all from unraveling.
>>
I bought my wife a Singer Heavy Duty to mend my coveralls. I know how to use a machine but I let her do it. My ex wife had an aversion to sewing, don't miss that noise.
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>>3005176
To finish with a machine you usually just use the reverse for a few stitches and it doesn't come undone. When sewing by hand I finish by doing a couple of stitches in the same place followed by a couple of overhand knots. There's probably a smarter way to do it but this simple way hasn't failed me yet.
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>>3005098
lol large part of making a suit is literally pressing it to attain the intended shape
it's what incompetent dry cleaners fuck up
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>>3005253
So you tie a knot in thread and the knot locks it against the fabric? Like the knot blocks the hole?
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>>3005269
>>3005253
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+tie+off+a+thread
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>>3005176
Sewing itself isn't hard, using a sewing machine is like using any tool. Like a hammer ya know
>>
what are some good uses for jersey fabric from sweaters that are a tad too small? I didn't measure em, but it's at best a square metre of fabric
>>
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>>2996152
I have this Singer 12/12k sewing machine which I want to use, the previous owner seems to have modified the mounting point for the needle, does anyone know what kind of needle it would use?
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>>3005098
works well, ive done it with sleeves to shape it and waistbands for that slight curve
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>>3001432
Machines like that are very strong and can handle fairly heavy materials like levi. You should be able to do any kind of pattern, pants, skirts, shirts, underwear, light cloth bags, etc, make sure you have the right needles and bobbins for it and take a basic sewing class, borrowing their machines to kearn the basics of putting a pattern together. It's a nice machine. Make use of it.
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>>3005353
That's probably just a clamp to help hold the needle in place, probably uses these, https://www.etsy.com/listing/4449677687/10x-needles-for-singer-model-12-12k-new
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So i am fixing a Sigma modelo 101 for my mom and the motor has no strength at all, i already sanded the rotor from graphite and while it did improve a little i do suspect from the capacitor, but the markings were not oil resistant so i cannot read shit
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>>3005471
this is the weak motor, any idea of what to do? where to look for the capacitor??
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>>3005472
Idk your kit or skills but do you have access to a tachometer?
You can download audio specrum apps for phones, those will give you clues about the speed at which the motor is running.
If it indeed is weak or - more likely - experiences increased drag or losses it can be expected to not run at the rated speed without load. You could facilitate a measurement via it's noise signature by sticking a little piece of tape on the pulley so that it sticks out just long ebough so that you can intercept it on every revolution.
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This shit starts jumping when the machine is working hard and it will never remain in reverse by itself, I have to hold it up to reverse. This is not surprising, as the surface it bears against is not curved so I'd not expect to be able to clamp it be tightening it down. Tightening it should only make it rest closer to zero. Is there something missing like a rubber washer maybe?
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>>3005475
fuck i do have a tachometer but it is in the city, we are in the village for a month, i will measure the free spinning velocity somehow tomorrow
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>>3005477
I reckon the screw is only there to make sure the lever goes to the same position for backstitches as forward stitches, I've seen a similar mechanism on other machines. The screw is not necessarily to clamp it down but moreso to make sure the stitch length when moving the lever to the other side is the same.
At least that's my guess, I have a feeling the issue might be somewhere else, maybe in the feed dog mechanism. I'm not entirely sure because I don't know your machine tho.
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>>3005515 >>3005475
i did actually find the tachometer in the woodworking toolbox that i brought (it shouldnt have been there so i am lucky i misplaced back then)
when it goes empty it goes at 8400 rpm, twice the nominal speed.
But now we are wondering if its just a mix of many wrong things, like the old pulley cord are way too lose, the graphite acumulation on the rotor, the lack of lubrication. I now can sort of make it work slightly
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I had bought one of those, but unfortunately, I put it in my attic. Somehow, a mouse(?) got inside and chewed on the display ribbon cable. Now it's scrap. Yay.
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What type of foot is this?
I tried googling but got absolutely no results, its made of white plastic and has a ratcheting bit that slides in/out, its about 2-3 inches long.
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>>3005636
I've also sewn some anon cosplay stuff for a upcoming event, I ordered two chinkshit "zentai" suits off of ali express (polyester, not spandex because I'd probably kms trying to sew it), then cut out some craft felt, used fusible webbing to iron it onto the mask, then sewed it in since the adhesive wouldn't hold itself onto the mask, but it was very helpful for stabilizing everything.
>>
>>3005628
I handled a bunch of different machines, some issues I encountered with motors was a huge cap that leaks a mysterious goo. All the motors I had could easily run without the capacitor because (or so I was told) the cap was there to deal with shoddy electric networks of the past.
Also another thing, some motors can actually be 'tuned', they have a long straight copper coil with a little connector somewhere around the center that can be unscrewed and moved around. By simply adjusting the position you increase or decrease the amount of windings in the circuit and the motor can speed up or slow down. (this is something I did on many Elna Grasshoppers)
And sometimes, simply making a new pulley cord and setting it to proper tension made the machine run properly. Making a new cord is rather trivial.
Hope you figure it out, not sure if any of this is helpful.
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>>3005636
Button hole
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>>3005477
My mom says that's normal depending on the machine, the lever is held in place manually during reverse feeding, even some modern machines work that way
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>>3005472
I see the motor has both V120 and V220 on it; is it possible that there's a switch to change them? 120V in a 220V country would definitely cut the power in half. Having a belt that's too tight will also rob a lot of power. The proper belt tension slightly favors the looser end of the spectrum, if the motor wants to spin out on its own then you should add a little more tension. If the motor is properly cleaned and everything else is good then the next culprit might be the pedal. The pedal is a bit harder to test but as long as there's a range of speeds between all the way off and all the way on then it's probably okay. A scary way to test the pedal is to simply short the 2 wires leading to it together, after shorting them the machine will start at full power as soon as you plug it in. I wouldn't recommend trying that unless you're certain there's a problem and can do it without electrocuting yourself.
>>
OK so does anyone know what the fuck this is about:
I was making some collars earlier and I was sewing through around 8 layers. I've this this more than once but it kept doing some catch issue and I don't know why. I would start and the thread would come complete out. I broke 2 needles doing this. WTF? Any ideas?
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>>3005703
I HATE HATE HATE breaking needles. >:(
If the machine was fine before with less layers I guess the first thing to try would be lowering the upper thread tension; the friction from the extra layers might be pulling the needle enough to deflect it.
>>
>>3005472
It probably has lint build up, clean all internal parts by picking the lint out, then lubrucate all bearing surfaces with drops of mineral oil or a light machine oil except those the thread runs along. Large gears and large bearing surfaces should be greased with any good machine grease or even vegetable shirtening if that's all you have. Usually there are holes along the top of the machine for dripping in some additional oil.
>>
>>3005703
Manually walk the machine when going through multiple layers, and use a heavier needle gauge so it doesn't deflect as much and use a heavier thread guage under lower tension so it doesn't break the thread. Honestly 8 layers sounds like a lot. But some machines can do it. Just walk the machine Manually instead of using the motor. Somethings have to be done on industrial strength machines regardless or hand stictched.
>>
>>3005656
>(or so I was told) the cap was there to deal with shoddy electric networks of the past.
You were told wrong. This is impossible to know without knowing the exact type of motor but it sounds much like a run capacitor which simply provides some phase shift and ultimately increases torque. Run capacitors are usually film capacitors and as such should be unlikely to go bad. But this is very speculative at this point.
>>3005702
>V120 and V220 on it; is it possible that there's a switch to change them?
Uhm isn't there like a slit under the label? I'd guess if the switch was there it's going to be where you can reach it through the slit.
Not sure if the two wattage ratings mean it simply is 45W on 110V and 70W on 220V. It"s curious they give one speed tho, wasn't the 110V mains frequency at 60 Hz instead of 50 Hz or so? If there is a switch I'd guess they either have a center tapped winding and the switch selects the center tap or end of the winding or there's a rectifier and DC motor in the box and the switch configures the rectifier to act as a doubler.
Btw now that we have confirmed she seems to spin real good, have you spun her by hand real gently and hear or feel for any noise or friction?
>>
>>3005595
So you think I'm expected to hold it up while reversing?
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>>3005757
My mom said some machines do work that way, look up the manual or other YouTubers using the sa,e machine to confirm
>>
>>3005759
I think I'll put a spring kr rubber band on it, maybe I'll even find a good point to make it an over center mechanism
>>
>>3005637
watormelim
>>
>>3005709
yeah that's what I did too. It's weird tho.

>>3005750
110/18, unless there's something better.
>>
>>3005764
I sometimes c walk into KFC and they get mad asf
>>
I saw 2 machines at Good Will again today. 15 a piece
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>>3006166
I bought a $10 Kenmore 1220 at the Goodwill a couple of weeks ago but it was a dud. All metal except for a single plastic gear for the zigzag that's not as available as I thought. I'm not too mad, the Singer 500a I bought a few months ago was $10 as well and that one's a jewel.
>>
I also have a Kenmore 49 from around 1954 I found by the curb in the rain a couple weeks ago as well. It looks like some homeless people ripped the case open looking for a treasure and just left it open with a bent hinge. It's certainly unique and works well considering it was froze solid; I'm sure I'll find somebody to adopt it for me. It looks pretty cool now that it's cleaned up.
>>
>>3006182
should look into it and see if it's worth getting it fixed.
>>
>>2998128
Depends on how complex you want it. A square of fabric with a stitched edging is a handkerchief. You can do that with a dollar store sewing kit and an old piece of scrap fabric
>>
>>3006194
I bought the only available version of the zigzag gear from aliexpress but it had 20 teeth instead of 22 like the original but it's a big enough difference to make timing it impossible. I found a 3D printable version that people say works, I'll try making one of those if I get the chance. Until then it's straight-stitch only.
>>
Made a shirt and some jogging bottoms recently having never sewn anything before. The bottoms have an elastic waistband which was the hardest part and I made a right hash of it but the shirt hides the worst of it. Rest came out surprisingly well although I had to ask a friend for some advice now and again to tidy up any scruffy parts
>>
>>3006216
Alieexpress? Really? I dunno if I'd trust that. A 3D printed sewing machine, that would be funny to watch work.
>>
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>>3006248
no no no lol, just the gear is 3D printed.
https://www.printables.com/model/1799628-sears-kenmore-1481220-zig-zag-cam-gear
>>
>>3005702
>>3005748
oh, apparently i didnt post what i wrote the last day. dont know what i did
I sort of made it work, hopefully we are getting a new belt in monday in a town near, but seemed a mix between many things. we managed to oil it properly, bc many parts are just oiled from the excess oil from other parts, so it is difficult if it got dry. there was also another switch in the motor not explained in the manual that apparently made it work way better.
And yes the black is a voltage selector. It was already on 220v, back then spain still had many different electrical systems, in the manual it even says that you can ask 150v or some others
>>3005756
the torque parts is what worries me, i still feel that it should have more torque. but it doesnt really makes sense
>>
>>2997399
put the part with the hole and the fabric you'll use as repair in an embroidery hoop really helps to get it not to wrinkle
>>
Surprised that no one called me out for that typo on my link tree with the "The the" situation. LMAO

Also, dope, I'm glad you guys found the linktree useful
>>
Had an old bike tire I was trying to use to make a variation of this, didn't pan out so well without sturdier materials



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