https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5

The bottom of the Centauri Carbon 2 is plastic that's already cracking on people? Seems like a major design flaw to have a chamber that's constantly heating and cooling and undergoing vibration.

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I made a thing. Don't know why or what it's usecase is, but it's made.
https://www.printables.com/model/1670001-modular-35-hard-drive-rack

>>2997244
prostate egg?

>>2997245
hand therapy egg.
broke my pinky(and a few other things) a while ago and this has been helping.

Should I try to use sensorless homing on my first printer build, or is it something I should wait for more experience to try?

the biggest pill in 3d printing is that unless you got strict size or mass constraints or need something that will take very high heat, petg is the solution to every problem
if it's not, you just add more petg to your part until it starts being a solution
if it's still not, your part design is plain shit and you should be ashamed
ten bucks a kilo, unbeatable price, print it cold and slow on a decade old ender and laugh at bambubabs playing with the latest blend of pla++ and voronfags torturing themselves with nylon and smoking mind-numbing asa fumes

>>2997285
yes

>>2997295
I've had PETG fail more than ASA. And I can never get it to come out smooth. ASA prints perfectly for me, PETG is a mess and no amount of drying improves it.

>>2997295
PLA is about the same price as PETG, prints nicer, and is mechanically superior.

>>2997295
rent free huh my "omg cool plate" brand plate holds petg, pa6-gf, and tpu on my a1. I am temped to try abs. it just works let me ask how many fails you deal with on your ender?

>>2997295
You know for the longest time Creality / ender 3 fags used to argue with me about ass poisoning bejng a thing

They said I was making it up

And that “I just hated ender 3s because you can’t level a bed”

Kept posting pictures of the prusa kits i built saying nah man I used to have an ender too but I sold them for more than I paid for them (I bought them at microcenter during the pandemic $75 printers + free roll of inland PLA sold for $120 each kek plus however much profit I made off of them in a print farm)

>>2997317
pla is inferior in every single metric except being foolproof
baby's first filament, only good for articulated dragons
>but muh tests
all the tests are printing petg fast and with cooling on, that wrecks it
if you see a test where petg's layer adhesion is not nearly equal to its strength in xy plane, it's forged data by big pla, they deliberately printed it wrong to promote their cornstarch
220 degrees, slow, preferrably with a fat nozzle, you get parts that are as strong as abs but with none of the warping or fumes, superior wear and chemical resistance and perfect layer adhesion
true engineering plastics are superior, but between printer requirements and price difference, rarely worth it, just throw more petg at it if it breaks
>>2997322
it makes weird noises but otherwise works flawlessly for the last couple years, aside from that one time i killed a 12 hour print because kapton tape holding the cooling duct failed
>tempted to try abs
abs is largely obsolete, decent properties but shit to print, especially on an open printer
it has its uses, it's cheap and takes post-processing better than most plastics including its supposedly replacement asa, good for cosplay props that you gotta glue, sand and paint, kinda shit otherwise
>>2997327
doesn't have to be an ender, anything simple, slow, open, pre-klipper
ender clones, old prusas, kp3s, what have you, most people don't need more than that and a spool of petg

>>2997330
>all the tests are printing petg fast and with cooling on, that wrecks it
Ball's in your court. Either find test data that does represent your claims, or do the tests yourself.
>220 degrees
Kinda cold for PETG.

>>2997295
>If you live in a warm country
PETG
>If you live in a cold country
PLA

Simple.

It's kinda sad how New York and soon California illegalized open-source printing

Just boughted a P1S to get into this 3d printing thing since electronics tinkering with toy cars, drones and stuff seems fun and was fun in uni.

Like half the budget went to my filtration/ventilation system pulling filtered air out my window so neither me or my neighbors get the assma years down the line. Also a hepa air purifier just for the room itself. It should be overkill as fuck for just printing pla/petg but I'm not taking any chances.

I live at the second floor with wooden floor and dont want do be an asshole, so what should I do for vibration? AI suggested a concrete layer, some foam and then the printer on top, what would you guys do?

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control box for a shift light im making, i still have to solder and make a lid and drill a tiny hole someplace for the one signal wire

>>2997343
Get a concrete paving slab. (Heavier is better. You can also print a little enclosure for the slab to go in, if you want it to look nicer. It's just a mass damper.)
Put an antivibration mat on it. (Don't get anything too thick)
Put the printer atop that.

You can also print and assemble "HULA" feet with some extra parts, and they work really well, actually.

It's only ever going to be as solid as whatever you're putting it on though. Workshops have like proper screwed-to-the-ground benches and stuff. But, just whatever has good contact with the ground will spread the vibration over a wider area. There's probably some logic to putting a larger antivibration mat under table or bench or whatever you've got the printer on. But, it's really kinda overkill at that point.

>>2997345
I got those tiny anti-vibration feet from the Bambulab shop since they were like a dollar, would I be skipping the mat then and just putting these + feet adapter or whatnot directly on top of the concrete slab? Or is the mat still needed?

>>2997349
Those feet are shit and are kinda misleading. They're basically a counter to vibration from outside so they're great if you're running two printers on the same unit so the vibration from one printer doesn't affect the other. It doesn't do the same when it's just a single printer.

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>>2997349
Oh, shit my bad, I fucked a part up.

So, you want this basically.

I don't know if you have an AMS, but, fulled loaded it's like 4KG of filament right on top of your printer which moves the centre of mass pretty high up there, and you probably don't want to do that, despite the fact everyone does it for some reason, and they even market them like that.

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>>2997344
Nice design for mounting the boards, will you use the lid to hold them down? I made an electronics enclosure recently too. I like aluminium face plates.

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>>2997353
I didnt think of that. I just made the chip areas real snug, the chips pretty much snap in. I think in the final box will have some dots of glue to help

I need to make a mould for silicone, would rubbing vaseline oil on the plastic be enough to prevent the silicone from getting stuck to it?

How would 98D GF TPU compare against Nylon in terms of abrasion resistance? Im using 95D TPU right now and it seems like nylon is maybe 10% more abrasion resistant. Ive been toying with a product right now in a pretty small market. Maybe 20-30k a year in global sales if im lucky. The nylon product that is currently sold is better, but if gf tpu is very similar performance wise then I can get a little more creative than whats currently offered. My ultimate goal is to maybe have a small extrusion line and make my own glass filled tpu as currently this stuff is like $35 usd per kg.

>>2997363
Yes. But vaseline is pretty thick stuff. By mixing vaseline, candle wax, and mineral oil in different ratios, you get get something of a better consistency. I made a mould release from vaseline and candle wax that can be rubbed into the layer lines like a pastel or crayon, without forming meringue-like soft peaks.

>>2997364
Where do you get such hard TPUs? I've only ever seen as hard as 72D, plus a bunch of things in the A scale.
Fibre-reinforced filaments may have issues with their fibres in the debris they leave behind.

>>2997365
it's not normal vaseline it's liquid paraffin (just found out that in english nobody calls it "liquid vaseline", my bad) so it has a similar consistency to mineral oil, would you say that it's good enough on its own? Otherwise I'll try your method, I have candle wax but I might have to buy some vaseline

>>2997366
Too thick and it forms solid clumps or elastic blobs, too thin and it will flow and pool at the bottom. Gotta use your own judgement, if it's like a thin ointment it should be good. Otherwise you may have to thicken or thin it as necessary. Pretty easy to test either way. I hear casting silicone doesn't really stick to much anyhow, rather your mould release is going to be doing more of a mechanical job (stopping the silicone getting lodged into the layer lines) than a chemical job.

>>2997367
thank you very much, that gives me some food for thought, I'll post the results here once it's done

>>2997365
meant to say 95a and 98a. Had shore hardness mixed up with fabric denier.

Is there also a D scale? The 95a and 98a are pretty easy to find. Not sure if I have seen fiber reinforced 95a yet but its probably out there.

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>>2997378
>Is there also a D scale?
Yes. The may be another scale or two other than A and D, but they're seldom used for 3D printing. 90/95/98A is by far the most common TPU. If you really look around you might find 85A and 80A. I think a few places make a 65D or so (probably protopasta and/or ninjaflex) but it's a bitch to print. I bought some CC3D 72D from Amazon, which MyTechFun reviewed a year ago or so. He's also apparently reviewed a 58D carbon fibre TPU. Apparently Bambu TPU for AMS is 68D. Then there's a 15% glass fibre reinforced 67D that LostInTech just reviewed, I hope MyTechFun gets his eastern euro mitts on that for a good test. I'd also like to see him test a TPU CF-core filament, should be better at avoiding diminished layer adhesion coming from fibre reinforcement.
There's also some non-TPU TPE filaments, and PEBA filaments too. And foaming versions of TPU and PEBA for an effectively softer printed model.

What material properties do you need, and which do you not need? Would you be ok making the part thicker or thinner to have the right amount of flex after changing the shore hardness? If you take a look at MyTechFun's spreadsheet he rates a few useful specs of TPUs, including friction, but not including wear resistance at least in my old copy. I know he has done wear resistance tests in the past.

>>2997386
The main properties I need it for is very little flex and abrasion resistance.

I already have some prototypes in 95a tpu and it works pretty well compared to nylon. My thinking is that glass filled nylon would beat it out on abrasion resistance, but glass filled tpu would beat standard nylon. Then regular nylon would beat standard tpu. Im basically competing against injection molding in a very small niche and where I could probably win is through color options and just being a little more abrasion resistant than bone stock nylon would be a good selling point. I dont think anyone does glass filled for this product.

>>2997389
What sort of abrasion? If it's rubbing on something smooth, then something hard and low-friction like POM or PTFE-filled filament might be a better way to go. If it's oscillating on something rough, then a semi-soft thing like 85A TPU might grip and skip, seldom sliding. Rolling elements and lubricants are also options.

>>2997386
Also that lostintech video is what brought me here. According to that chart that siraya tech 67D would actually be harder than 98a?

Would be printing at 100% infill. Worried about layer adhesion as well. Wont hurt to buy the stuff and experiment with. Basically just need something that wont shear off and can stand up to a fair amount of friction.

>>2997390
Occasional contact with cement (like a trailer bumper)

The longer it lasts the better.

Just wondering, had anyone here tried PythonSCAD? I recently found it and really like it (at least, as someone who's comfortable with python).
It's a fork of OpenSCAD that lets you use ordinary python to construct models, instead of being limited to the clunky scripting OpenSCAD normally requires. Also adds a lot of shorthands and convenience features so scripts feel way more concise.
Won't replace a full CAD program of course, but it seems a lot more usable than OpenSCAD to me. Having an actual real programming language behind it is so much less limiting.

>>2997393
just remember it's got to not shatter too because I've seen similar produced "bumpers" that shattered on abrupt contact in an application (not vehicle) that happened as a normal part of the intended use.

Shame that PET filament is so hard to find (both physically and google-y since it just sends you to PETG hell if you try), and when you do find it it's marked up as muh engineering filament instead of being sold for what it is- literal bottle plastic, straight out of the same granules

>>2997421
Economies of scale. At this point I think PET-CF is cheaper than PET.

>>2997421
If you want to print PET so bad just stick a molecular sieve before the nozzle and use regular PETG. You need to have one of those longer hotends or you simply won't have any thread left to screw the nozzle itself. I don't remember on the top of my head the particle size of glycol, maybe other anons can chime in. Your print speed will tank horrendously unless you upgrade the extruder motor-gear assembly too.

How much ventilation do you typically need with ASA? My printer would be in another room, but I would like to also be in there as an office and not keep it in a tent. I thought about grabbing one of the filtration systems pot growers use and mounting it to the ceiling and covering ac/heat vents in that room.

>>2997455
>How much ventilation do you typically need with ASA?
All of it, unless you only come into the room only to grab the prints. You don't want to find out 10 years later that ASA FDM turned out to be more carcinogenic than previously thought and you'll panic about cancer every time you feel a slight discomfort. If you plan to sit there, just make a proper tent with an air duct dumping the toxic shit out of the window.
No seriously, you are melting plastic and not the funny cornstarch kind like PLA either.

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>>2997461
That's what I figured, I can put it in the garage for the time being. Maybe some amateur ductwork and a filter can get me where I want to be(inside so I can grab my prints in my boxers).

Has anyone tried using one of those Bento Boxes? Do they do anything? Are they worth it?

>>2997410
Damn did not even think that was possible. I could see PETG just shattering, but didn't even consider TPU could just shatter. Wouldn't just regular nylon be prone to shattering as well? Have never seen the nylon components shatter.

>>2997469
just use tpu72d and be done with it.

>>2997462
you literally just need a little negative airflow, this $20 fan is what I use in my paint booth, which is a cardboard box I prime minis and models in.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OWRMZ6

>>2997474
Into some ducting out a window? That's what I thought, the only reason I want the bigger unit is that I'm thinking about picking up another printer and having them both going. Ducting from both of those into a carbon filter and out the window sounds good enough to me.

>>2997443
Isn’t the glycol actually part of the polymer?

>>2997469
Fibre reinforced TPU still has high impact resistance, but its elongation at breaking point is substantially shorter, so it depends on the kinds of impacts it needs to resist. 95A is basically immune to any impact if you can scale the print right, I assume stiffer TPUs are worse for this. That 72D TPU has somewhat worse layer adhesion, which will harm it.

>>2997341
>if you live in a warm country
petg
>if you live in a cold country
petg
>if you want to print articulated groots and print in place puzzle cubes
pla

>>2997295
my print needs to not be stringy as shit.

Is there a kind of library of printable components? Say, I need to attach two halves of my print in a separable way but I don't wanna design a whole mounting system if I can take something that already exists. I could use something like a standard Gopro mount integrated into the parts, the CAD files for those are easy to find, but it sucks for printing, one half can only be printed in one orientation if you don't want it to break and the other can't be feasibly printed at all for anything but cosmetic applications.

>>2997508
a brief application of a heat gun or a lighter solves that issue

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Nailing a complex PC-PBT print with a 75C enclosure temperature and zero (0) warping is fucking awesome.

>>2997512
just look at the usual model-sharing websites like Printables, Makerworld, Thingiverse and Thangs, for something as popular as GoPro you'll certainly find several different custom mounts designed for printing

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>>2997515
That's not what I meant. I'm designing a custom bike light with a pair of those rain effect LEDs I found, for a bike with a weird seat tube shape that won't take standard mounts, and I need one half to stay on the bike and another to detach for charging. I said gopro as the first example of a standard mounting system I could think of, even if it was optimized for printing it's too big for my application either way.

>>2997519
I see, personally I've never heard of such a website sadly.
What about an arca mount? Could you just take the stl for something like this
https://www.printables.com/model/251614-strong-arca-swiss-clamp
and merging into your fixed bike tube mount?
Cool project btw

>>2997465
Filters in 3d printing world seem like a meme. Think about how big and hefy air purifiers are. If printing really does spew all kinds of nasty shit then what's a little box with a few grams of carbon pellets going to do. Activated carbon is disputable effectiveness in terms of home use solutions. It's not until industrial scale air cleaners does it become effective.
It's like people are so hyperfocused on 3d printing their heads are stuck inside a little printer box. I am baffled at how people think a little square of hepa filter and handful of carbon pellets over the fan on a printer is going to do anything.
Maybe they're so used to printing little trinkets and convincing themselves of usefulness.
It seems like the air filters in printers are there so manufacturers can check off the air filter feature, but like come on. Stop and think about it for a second.

>>2997247
Powerful AND brave...

>>2997538
>what's a little box with a few grams of carbon pellets going to do
reduce the stink, basically keeps my basement from reeking of ABS and it works fine.

>>2997538
Need negative pressure and duct out the window at least. A too smol fan won't do anything despite a filter since air goes through printer cracks then anyway

My setup is p1s to hepa+charcoal filter to duct to blasting chinese exhaust fan to window seal out the window to the neighbors. And on the inside I have a hepa+charcoal purifier with sensor to make sure I don't fuck shit up. I really don't wanna get asthma or whatever down the line

>>2997512
Maybe GrabCAD?

>>2997538
The shitty little filters on the back of printers definitely have a limited effect. Instead I’d want at least a 20cm long cylinder full of activated carbon if I were pumping toxic bullshit into my living space. Or maybe some sort of ozone generator (with a catalyst to break it down afterwards), or titanium oxide free radical UV generator. Though who knows if the breakdown products of styrene are more benign than styrene itself.

Window vent makes by far the most sense, at which point also having activated carbon seems positively useless. What, you’re filtering the air before it exits your house, the fuck?

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Man, Fusion is so absurdly easy to use, I built this with literally zero experience.

>>2997669
htpc case?

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What printers do you all have? Tell me about them.

I have a Duender I put together myself. Quite custom, it has a heated insulated chamber that reaches 80C and all electronics moved to the outside. Two Creality 4.2.2 MCU's managed by a Pi 2 Zero running Klipper.

>>2997671
I have an old Artillery Sidewinder that I want to build into a fat 300x300 Duender. Looking for a second one for now, used to always have a few of them in the marketplace feed but haven't found any locally lately.

>>2997670
Nah, but close. It's for a synth mod I'm doing.

>>2997671
Sounds like a good build. I reckon it was a learning experience. I have a Neptune 3 pro running off klipper on a pi. I changed the heating cartridge, hot end, and put in a .8 nozzle. Klipper made adjusting super easy. My prints aren't as fine resolution, but the thicker layer lines have grown on me. I have had to adjust my CAD to accommodate the larger print nozzle, but things print so much faster it doesn't matter when I have to make a few extra prints for proper fitment.

>>2997692
Larger nozzles are amazing. I don't understand why 0.6 isn't the standard.

>>2997693
Agreed. I made all of those changes at once. But I feel the nozzle was the greatest impact. Sure, klipper allowed for easier adjustment, but Marlin would accommodate the changes needed for a larger nozzle. To adventurous anons, don't be afraid to change the nozzle, there will be learning along the way, but it'll help you become more familiar with your machine. Errors are documented and other people have overcome them. Fear is the little death.

>>2997671
I have an X2D and a P2S.
The X2D has been nothing but trouble.

>>2997696
Sorry it's been troublesome for you anon. What are it's symptoms?

>>2997697
Whenever doing prints that use multiple filament it just cannot adhere to the bed right, keeps blobbing and stringing and just being compete shit.

If I print using just the main or Aux nozzles it's fine.
But the moment I get a print to use both it's a disaster.

i currently have an ender 3 v2 that i'm tired of fucking around with. i want something with a comparable print area that is considerably more reliable, and i want to be able to print ABS and CF. i also want to avoid bambu lab. is the elegoo centurai carbon the best option for for <$500?

>>2997701
If you wanna avoid Bambu for the privacy or whatever stuff, you're absolutely not going to be any better going with the other chinky printers.

>>2997702
that's what i was afraid of. what are my options if i want something pre-built? prusa?

>>2997704
if you have a printer a budget and don't want bambu I don't understand why you wouldn't print a voron xl

>>2997671
came up on a minidelta which I sold to a friend who has since moved to an a1 mini. personally I moved to an x1c, with a very early AMS which needed the hydra mod and is occasionally a struggle.

>>2997704
Prusa, or I guess anything that's still "offline", I guess?
Another layer to it, is like you still have to slice the files themselves, and how much do you trust that your slicer isn't also spying on you?

>>2997699
Is it bed adhesion or layer adhesion that causes the failure? I'm not familiar with dual extruder printers. Are there settings in klipper that are specific to dual extruder prints?

>>2997708
>>2997699
Just reread the post to see it was bed adhesion. Has there ever been layer adhesion issues? Tried a glue stick or hair spray?

Where do anons buy their filament from in the EU?

>>2997701
I've had good luck with my elegoo printers, but I mainly print PETG. There are people that have made bamboo work offline. But as >>2997707 said how much can you trust your slicer. I understand the right to privacy. You'll have to carve your privacy away from overreaching entities these days.

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For the 40k fans, made a posable model of a sauce marine, articulated like dummy 13. Unfortunately it got dmca'd from most sites but is still up on Cults, for now

>>2997712
I bought a bunch from elegoo, its cheaper and slightly better quality than the electronics shops that sell their own stuff locally (unfortunately)

>>2997671
My trusty x1c has never let me down other than when I tried PLA-CF. Probably picking up an H2C later this year, need to setup a room for printing if I'm running multiple printers though.

>>2997671
Adventurer 5m, with the enclosure kit. Added LED strips and a cheap webcam. Modded firmware.
It and the enclosure kit were on sale and it has been pretty solid. Moving to custom firmware was pretty recent, since flashforge decided to be a shit. Should've done it sooner since it loses nothing and is all around better.

>>2997671
Modded Ender 3 V2. Direct drive BMG clone with hardened gears, dual Z, bed from a K1, TZ 3.0 nozzle ecosystem, Hero Me 5015 duct, CR-touch, silicone nozzle brush, tie rods, but not linear rails. It’s reliably doing what I need it to do.
When I upgrade, it will be to an enclosed printer, ideally with a heated chamber and a toolchanger.

>>2997693
They are more prone to dribbling and oozing. Or maybe it’s just that all my filament is ancient and wet.

>>2997707
Who the hell uses the Elegoo slicer?

>>2997712
As boring as it sounds but I mostly buy from amazon or ebay.

>>2997735
Can confirm the oozing on my .8mm nozzle. When my print bed and heat block are getting up to temperature there is about a half inch of filament that oozes out. The stringer that oozes out sticks to the skirt I have setup to be 10mm away from the printed part.

ender 3v2 for $50 y/n?

>>2997671
Sovol SV07 with HiWin rails kit. It's reliable and prints well, I can't complain (now), although I never really solved resonance. At work I have a Raise3D Pro3 with the HS kit, which I loathe for so many reasons.

>>2997671
qidi xmax 3, cr10s,
office: x1c with print issues, prusa i3 something or other. we're eyeing either an xmax4, funmat, or if the stars align a 22idex.

>>2997748
If it’s new, maybe if you really don’t want to spend more, or aren’t sure that you’ll stick with it, and aren’t afraid to waste your time troubleshooting Z offset and bed adhesion. Used, god no.

>>2997764
Creality’s new toolchanger might have a heated chamber, which I’d recommend waiting for if it wasn’t Creality. Wait for a Qidi toolchanger or take the bambupill I guess if you want those specs.

>>2997769
>Used, god no
ok i shouldve specified that it's used, read some reviews in the meantime and i guess it's really bad even when new
think i'll get an elegoo neptune 3 pro cause there's a bunch of them on marketplace and they dont cost that mucn more

>>2997771
It’s not an objectively bad printer, it’s what I’ve got and after extensive modding it’s pretty capable, but it’s an old model thats just likely not worth your time. When you buy used, you’re inheriting all of the faults the previous user left it with, and with those old machines there’s a lot of room for user errors to accumulate in a bad printer. I’d only buy a used printer if I knew enough about how it functions to fix even obscure things going wrong, or if the design was so robust that I could trust it to still be in good condition regardless of what the first owner did.

>>2997748
I'd offer $25, maybe 30 but that would be mostly for the alu extrusion, power supply, and motors.

>>2997748
You mean I get paid that for accepting the piece of garbage, right?

>>2997514
show, don't tell

>>2997671
elegoo centauri carbon. It's served me well with a very high degree of justwerks. Much better print quality and than the sovol sv06 I had previously.

I wish it had color changing, elegoo kinda jewed out on that one, but the printer itself is very good.

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>>2997671
Got a K1C and I am pretty happy with it.
I posted about my journey of insulating it and fixing an issue with the position of the thermistor a couple of threads ago. Maybe someone remembers.

>>2997103
Last year I started making a kind of flute and posting my progress online to youtube and tiktok as I finalized my design. Then a bigger content creator with a bigger audience basically copied everything I was doing and took the credit. Can I share what I made here or will that get me banned?

>>2997983
How much of a difference did the insulation make?

>>2997984
unless the flute is a dick, yes you can post it here and not get banned

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>>2997987
Not too easy to answer because the naked results do not translate to the real world application.Here were my results. For the test setup I set
>bed to -200mm
>start heating bed to 100°C
>take measurements every 5 minutes
The extruder was turned off, so it was just another thermistor. And as you can see, with rising heat the difference between chamber and extruder temperature drifts apart further and further. I figured out that the chamber thermistor was at a very poor spot in a corner at the back wall. So the readings were unreliable. Fixed it with a 3cm bracket for the thermistor. Now there is roughly a 5°C difference between the extruder and chamber temperature.
While printing ASA (100°C bed, 270°C extruder) the printer has no problem with staying at the 55°C +/- 1°C mark. So I should have roughly 60°C above the bed, where the actual print is. As soon as the back ventilation turns off agian, the chamber heats up again. A nice tight and stable hysteresis. Did not push it any further than that yet.
So far it works and the insulation was cheaper than an active chamber heater. And the mainboard seems to stay a little bit cooler too. Probably because of the floor insulation.

x1cniggas, what do you use to heat your chamber? I'm giving ASA a shot currently and preheating the chamber with the heatbed is taking too long. Preferred chamber heater?

>>2997992
I mean does it have a noticeable effect on prints? Also, why not a partial insulation layer on the door?

>>2998002
Hard to tell. the worst warping with ASA I had with some very long and slender prints in the beginning. Never printed anything this long since then. Since then my ASA prints were more on the chunky side. Occasionally I had some corners that were lifting a mm or so. Nothing to spectacular and I could probably fight it with some more plate-soap-scrubbing or larger mouse ears. Maybe I should try to crank up the heat, clean the bed thoroughly and do some warp prone test prints. Maybe even at different temperatures. Right now I am too lazy though.

I already thought about putting some insulation on the door and just leave a little peephole. The glass door feels very warm, so the printer is losing some heat there. I just don't feel the need for more insulation right now. After heating up the bed I usually wait like 20-30 minutes anyway, so the bed stops warping from the heat change before I level the bed. Once I start to print the chamber has no problem holding the heat. Maybe I should test how far I can push the chamber temperature. I've just read that the web cam stops working at around 55°C and more. Also I might run into some issues with the stepper motors. Adding heat sinks might help though.
But maybe other anons had the same unreliable readings with their chamber temperature that I did and their true chamber temperature was much higher while running into those issues. So I might be able to push it further, now that my readings are more accurate.

Right now I've got some other more urgent personal issues to fix, before spending more time with this hobby.

>>2998009
I’d try insulating the door by double glazing. Adding a layer of acrylic with an air gap, and sealing around that air-gap so it doesn’t transfer heat through convection. Clear polycarbonate twinwall might be transparent enough to act as double glazing all on its own, that’s what I’ll be using to insulate my filament drier.

>>2997994
what? ASA prints like butter on my x1c. I prototype in PLA and then when everything is right I just change spools to ASA and hit print. what is the point of having a bambu if you're not going to let it work?

My stockpiled gift cards were unbeknownst to me used up so I couldn't obtain a 3D printer from Amazon this past Prime Day. I was saving for years. I have to start saving all over again. I hate everything.

>>2998126
used up as in emptied by someone else, your dumb ass self or expired? I threw away like $90 in expired chick-fil-a gift cards only to later discover it's against state law for gift cards to expire in colorado.

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>>2998075
Do you preheat the chamber at all? Printing in a hotter chamber leads to less warping and better layer adhesion. Idk, I did get this bad boy though. Automatically kicking on when the bed is set to a specific temperature is pretty neat.

I've taken to printing pla in a 40C chamber. Highest interlayer strength i've felt third only to pet-cf and some nylons/pa's.
However, putting the filament in a dryer at typical pla temps and printing from that was enough to cause it to fail due to softening in the extruder.
If it's not printed from the hot dryer, then the filament moves fast enough that it prints perfectly.

>>2997771
ended up buying a tested neptune 3 pro for 75
from elegoo themselves

>>2998207
Maybe you need an extruder cooling system like in the Qidi X Max 4.

I’ve always thought it possible to print regular PLA annealed as it comes out, by using an 80C chamber, but you’d need an actively cooled extruder to prevent heat-creep.

Though I do wonder if you need to use a drier with PLA at all. At the very least printing from the drier while it’s working seems superfluous, not like you’re printing silk.

>>2998229
Pretty good. The Neptune 4s have Klipper which is a nice upgrade for advanced features and more easily tweaking the firmware, but apparently they have limited RAM and can only handle a gcode file below 300MB before crashing.

I was thinking, all this filled plastics shed the glass/carbon strands thing, there's a finite amount of them on the surface, maybe post-processing can get rid of them entirely? Maybe ultrasonic bath? Tumbling with failed non-filled prints? If you can clean the surface, no new strands will be exposed unless you break the part.

>>2998297
Wet sanding/tumbling + lacquer should be fine. Even lacquer alone is probably enough. But abrasion alone likely won't work as the fibres are harder than the surrounding plastic, and so will abrade slower than the plastic. If anything I'd print fibre-core filament with a big nozzle, that should minimise the fibres breaching the surface.

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Ever pre-printed your supports? Pic related is a test I just did.

>Pause print before overhang layer on C-shaped part.
>Fit the square block into the space under the overhang
>Dab of weak glue to hold it in place
>Print the rest of the C-shaped part

It worked.

>>2998341
I would just use the sharpie trick in this scenario. Takes two pauses instead of one, unless you use tree supports.
https://hackaday.com/2020/05/27/improving-3d-printed-supports-with-a-marker/
I use it surprisingly often.

Do you guys have a piece of shit printer that you keep around for sentimental reasons? My first printer was a Prusa Mini and I've since upgraded it with a bondtech extruder and revo hotend. I actually try to use it over my Core One and XL if the part is small enough.

>>2998364
No because we bought ender 3s and anet a8s that we can’t wait to immolate.

>>2998344
That's a good trick, I have never heard of it before. I may try it someday. Consider the following:
1. The pre-print method leaves you with a reusable support, which might be useful if you are printing very many of the same thing and want to use less filament.
2. Printing supports on top of extra-sparse sparse infill doesn't seem like it will work very well. This is the scenario I found myself in which led me to try out my little test.

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>>2998374
forgot image

>>2998341
The real gigabrain move is to print the support out of a dissimilar material (e.g. PETG for a PLA print), and design it to lock in place more positively. Maybe with a weak-point to break for it to come out. Using this to interlock permanent materials (e.g. TPU and ABS) is also extremely powerful.

>have ancient, obscure printer (BCN3D Sigma R16)
>heater cartridge and thermistor wires get destroyed in an unfortunate accident
>plug in new hotend
>printer detects I have a new version of the hotend somehow
odd
>try to calibrate first layer
>printer starts screaming
It's not any moving parts crashing, it's like the printer suddenly isn't getting enough power...but only during the calibration? I can home axes and heat up the hot end with no issue.

I really should have just bought a new printer

What's the best tiny 3d printer? I'm guessing a Voron 0.2?

What material has probably the highest shear force? I have a part that is basically printed like a pencil standing up and I dont want it to snap in half. So whatever has the highest lateral load I guess is what it would be called? The print orientation cant really be changed either. I guess I could change the print orientation but it would be pretty weird to print it that way.

>>2998399
The Sovol Zero is pretty decent looking for a prebuilt machine, stock Klipper and a series of minor improvements over the SV08 that somehow vanished when they went on to the SV08 Max. A1 Mini is great for its price, Prusa Mini would be good for upgradeability if it had been updated in the last decade. Maybe they’ll make a Core 1 Mini upgrade kit. Not many manufacturers make small format printers, especially with the fancier modern machines it’s really diminishing returns below 250mm bed size. Make the build size half to 125mm, and you drop the price by maybe 10%. The potential advantage is in having a smaller footprint, and less power wasted in keeping the chamber hot, and if you have more expensive insulated walls and lower wattage chamber heater you might see more of an appreciable price impact in the smaller size. If I were making a PEEK printer I’d consider going small for that reason, and also if I needed to print a large PEEK part I’d be chewing through my wallet.

Maybe you should look at some delta machines? They can go fast, and often have a small but tall bench footprint, though it doesn’t seem like there are any multi-colour or multi-material deltas. I wonder how a delta toolchanger rack would even work.

>>2998403
I've got an old version of the MyTechFun spreadsheet. He measures vertical shear force but only for newer filaments. The top is:
>Creality PPA-CF - 158.6
>3DXTech PEI 1010 - 152.7
>Qidi PET-GF - 152.1
>Siraya PPA-CF Core - 142.8
Vertical shear force is a combination of regular shear strength and layer adhesion. The following is the layer adhesion list, which he has done for basically all filaments:
>AzureFilm PLA - 81.7
>PolyMaker PolyLite PC - 81.6
>Qidi PET-GF (as above) - 78.35
>Qidi UltraPA-CF25 - 76.05 (also has high vertical shear force)
Looks like a PPA-CF or a PET-CF are your best bet. I suspect CF-core filaments will be better given the same material, but I can't say for sure.

You really would be better off printing it horizontally for strength, the shear strength in the horizontal direction is routinely double that when printed in the vertical direction. Here PPA-CF wins out, though I'd still consider using PET-CF for its lower price. Either way you'll want to look into annealing.

Explain what it is you want to do so we can laugh at you.

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>>2998406
ty men.

Believe it or not this is a key. The original is probably made of a stamped steel. I have used this plastic version fine, but I need to make it consumer proof. There will be end users that would break it whether its maraging steel or plastic but the goal is to just get less part failures. Probably going to have the key part flip out like a knife or push out like a thumb drive.

The current version requires you to try and break it, but I have sold things to thousands of people and nothing surprises me anymore. Just need these things to be quick to produce and cheap. I could print this horizontally but I would honestly probably get more bitching about the surface finish than the part breaking. Sick world.

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>>2998413
There's an option to glue some piano/stainless wire down holes going the full length, so even if the plastic cracks you'll be able to pull it out again. Or to remelt in sand/plaster/etc. in bulk. Any extra processing time is something you'd want to use jigs and fixtures to streamline as much as possible, but it's that kind of value-added process, going above the bounds of 3D printing alone, that makes your product stand out among existing competitors. And dissuade low-effort undercutting slop-farmers.

Could you ditch some of those features to make it flat on one side? If I had an X2D or toolchanger I'd print it sideways on a support material and keep the shape as is, without that I'd attempt to trim one curved part so it can sit on the bed, pic related. Otherwise, there are non-serial print methods like >>2998341 and >>2998379. With the right designs of fixtures, you could print a reusable support piece that holds the trimmed piece like I described flat-side up, so the printer can print the curved bit atop it to complete the piece. Would take a fair bit of investment in the jig prototyping, but once it's done you're good.

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>>2998413
>>2998414
Say, your gcode file could try to print this, and after the first bit has been printed you pause and take it off the bed and move it into the slot, then resume printing. Maybe you'd add a locating feature, like this thin hole to insert a wire or drill-bit or whatever.

>>2998415
Now that you mention it, I should be able to print it in that orientation on the left. It should be able to print flat like that if overhangs are not an issue. I think the slope is maybe 30 degrees and im not sure if I have ever printed an overhang less 45.

>>2998413
jesus man print that sideways

>>2998399
monoprice mini delta two owners going on 10 years of service

>>2998170
no I just hit print like a redditor

>>2997984
https://youtu.be/NzpI1hHYxpw?is=3mGM66pzXS9M5wfG

Any other plates like the old black textured pei plates for an x1c? I picked up some of the new gold ones and I get stress marks when it's taken off the bed. I can fix this by hitting it with the heat gun but I would rather not.

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any sites that have pirated stl files or copycat designs?
looked through all the main sites for something like picrel but couldnt really find anything

>>2998484
T*legr*m
Search 3d print or variations of 3d printing when looking for channels or whatever they call it. You may have to dig through shit loads of posts, sometimes uploaders don't properly name files.

My INDX arrived for my Core One a few days ago but I've been too lazy to set it up. Did anyone else grab one of these?

my titan extruder's making creaking noises
it used to only do it with tpu but after a big half a kilo print it creaks with petg too
i suspect it's tension, but neither more nor less tension seem to do anything

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Is there something like uv resistant coating I can put on printed white pla pieces to give them a little bit more outdoor durability?
I got a bunch of simple shapes (thick, not complex, not loeadbearing or anything) I want to use outdoors where they'd be exposed to the sun for a few hours a day (not all year long and they don't need to last for all eternity, just a bunch of summers)
Or should I just switch to a different material right away before even trying?

>>2998531
take the ASApill

>>2998493
No, I'm not a retarded faggot.

>>2998532
Guess I really should, shouldn't I

>>2998531
White house paint. White will hopefully mean it will reflect light and not heat up substantially.

>>2998531
Just use ASA. If you've got the budget, polymaker makes a carbon fiber asa that is very resistant to warping, though it might still need bed conditioning and a draft shield/box if being printed on an open air printer.
https://fiberon.polymaker.com/product/asa-cf08/

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Anons, I want your best guesses on how the fuck pic related came to be.

>>2998531
Honestly, any coating of paint? As long as you put enough of them?

>>2998531
they make UV clear coat in spray cans. my mailbox pull lasted for years in direct colorado sun and it was just PLA. and it was weird it was fine one day, pulled and pushed by the mail lady every day and me every three, then one day it just turned to shit and collapsed. put them outside unpainted and see what happens, in 3+ years replace them with PETG or ASA. hell I'd put even money on the world not lasting as long as PLA in the sun starting from now.

>>2998561
That's wild. Maybe the guides got bent, so its the print head actually getting lower in the middle rather than the plate doing its best impression of a bowl.

>>2998625
It's far stupider than that. No, it's a rather thin aluminium plate only suspended upon the edges, with a heavy as fuck oven heating element underneath it, a magnetic topper + PEI plate on top. I compared it to the glass plate which was on it earlier and the difference is remarkable (glass plate is only tilted, stiff enough for it to not be a huge fucking problem). So the heating element already causes a bowl, once it warms up, since the aluminium plate is mounted wrong (technically one would need diagonal slot holes or something so it can expand without warping, but it's just normal drilled holes, not big enough ones), the bowl is exacerbated.

This causes localized problems too, e.g. it's near impossible to calibrate and even if calibrated, there's a very high chance of back pressure forcing hot filament back up into the hot end, which then clogs.

And all of this shit causes the strong desire for a VORON Trident or something like that in me, for I've put so much fucking effort into getting this shit piece to run, but my input was always ignored - until I collect data and prove that I was right all along.

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I have a funny/stupid idea regarding webcams and klipper. There's a streaming format that specifically uses the pi's video encoding hardware (pic related) and that got me thinking: I'm using an old laptop instead of a pi, and it has a dedicated nvidia GPU in it. (GeForce GT 330M) I wonder if I could use that to accelerate video encoding of the webcam?

>>2998561
Are you measuring a hot bed? Is the printer pecking or scanning?

>>2998656
>accelerate video encoding of the webcam
for what purpose? is the video encoding of the webcam not accelerated enough?

>>2998576
one coating is enough

>>2998669
>>2998669
>is the video encoding of the webcam not accelerated enough?
I don't know but I'd assume it would be fine, I haven't actually set it up yet. (Yes I know how stupid this sounds bear with me)

>for what purpose?
94% shits and giggles. Using an actual dedicated nvidia gpu on a debian command line only install for anything -even for something the cpu could handle just fine- just feels funny and satisfying. If I can pass off something to a hardware accelerator, why not?
6% because in theory, if I somehow managed to print at insane speeds, or rig 2 printers to be served at once from it, I could free up cpu cycles for more kinematics.

speaking of which, is there anything else I could concievably have klipper doing that might use a GPU or other laptop hardware? It'd be funny to say I've got a graphics card contributing to my printer.

>>2998666
It's a 15x15 BED_MESH_CALIBRATE in Klipper...yeah, it's a hot bed.

>>2998732
at that point I'd be checking with a straight edge.

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How would I be able to print this without a fuckload of supports all over the place? I have a landscape that's hollow (because I'll be putting LEDs inside it), and there's a shitload of slits cut into it to let light pass through. When I run it through the slicer it shits the bed and puts supports literally everywhere, which makes sense, but at the same time seems like overkill.
Ideally I'd just cover the slits with a breakaway portion and just poke them out, but I'm not really sure what the process of going about that is. Like do I just put floating geometry there that has the gap that I need, or do I mark edges or something in Blender? How large of a gap is needed to enable it to print without supports but still be able to be poked out?
The slits are about 0.35mm wide, and 1mm deep.

I'm brand new to 3d printing, but I've been 3d modelling for over a decade, so I can rework the model if needed.

>>2998733
There is no need to. It is indeed this warped. There is no way to print on this.

>>2998734
You have too much bridging. One way would be to print supports in water-soluble material, then print the actual thing on top of it, although this either requires a two material printer or exchanging filaments mid-print.

>>2998734
print it on its edge instead

>>2998740
>There is no way to print on this.
What printer was it? Maybe try easing up on the bed springs.

>>2998734
Hey, I know it's nice to print something and be done, but another alternative it to print it normally with supports then use it like a mold for a different material on top, like papier-mâché or plaster.

>>2998734
split the model on the slices, print em on the side, then glue them all together after.

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>>2998742
In theory it could work. Definitely less support. Idk much about tuning the supports, but I probably could make them better.

>>2998741
I told myself "I don't need a 2 filament printer, I don't see myself ever needing to change colors", and just bought the base Centauri Carbon. Only found out later that it'd be useful for multi material prints. If I just print the support material, would I be able to print the actual model on top after?

>>2998745
I'd still run into the problem on a shitload of supports I feel like, even if it were solid-ish. I'm trying to prototype this as something I could potentially sell in the future as well (various dioramas of some of my art). So papier-mâché or plaster might not be the way to go.

>>2998760
That could work too, then just print out a rigid base and glue that on. Alignment could be an issue though.

Thanks guys, these have been some helpful suggestions.

>>2998763
You could do that without any supports with good enough part cooling. The mountain overhangs aren’t too steep, and the top edge could be bridged. That “perfect bridging” gcode modifier script would make it better though.

How thick is the landscape layer? If it’s less than 1.5mm you may have trouble, but if it’s 2-3mm I think you’d be fine.

>>2998771
The landscape layer is 1mm to let light through the slits, but I think I can thicken it to 3mm and it'd still be fine. 1mm was kind of an arbitrary number.
It's really hard to judge thickness in Blender. Seems thick as fuck in there, but when I pull out the calipers and give it a look irl it's thin as fuck.
Do you have a link to the Gcode script? Searching it up doesn't come up with anything useful. I'm using PLA, which as far as I'm aware is pretty normal as far as filament goes. I'm gonna give some test prints a go with the model pretty soon to see what I can get away with.

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>>2998779
>Do you have a link to the Gcode script
My mistake, it was a pull request into Orca directly. Was in the nightly 6 months ago, should be in the full release as of Orca 2.4.0.

Might need a bit of testing, and it still depends on your cooling fan setup. I recommend one 5015 fan at minimum, two is better.

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>>2998780
Thanks a ton. I'll give that a go.
As for cooling, right now I just have the base for the Centauri Carbon, but I have exhaust vented directly outside with an inline fan on the vent to suck air out. Idk how cool I need things to be, but I'll play around with things. I want to avoid opening up the enclosure if I can help it as I have it in my room with no where else to put it.

I know it's gonna be a lot of testing and trial and error, hopefully by the end of it I'll have something that looks alright. End result is something like pic related. I mocked it up years ago, and it's been hanging around rent-free in my head ever since. Maybe if I figure this shit out I can give some of my other works a go too.

>>2998734
>>2998779
Oh those are slots? 1mm seems too weak and very likely to sag and jiggle, so yeah 3mm is a good idea, maybe more. You could make them thicker in the middle and thinner towards the slots, for strength without impacting light exit angle. Though if you're using a light filament colour that variable thickness could look strange, if you want it to be light I'd consider printing in black and painting it, so the light can't penetrate through the plastic. I'd also consider permanent support pillars/fins and connective links between the strips to span the slots, you could put such links significantly below the slot so light could diffuse around them. The permanent support fins wouldn't be a problem if you had an LED strip/filament or EL wire under each slot. Having the slots only go so deep and just embedding a thin EL wire or LED filament might be worth doing anyhow.

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>>2998783
Considerations.

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>>2998788
>>2998783
Yeah I see what you mean. That definitely seems doable. I do want the base to be removable so I can work on it and put the LEDs inside. Though I probably could just model slots into the base that the supports/pillars/fins slot into.
How I have the LEDs arranged shouldn't be a problem, since I can space things out on the inside. I've tested out different arrangements, and having them laid out front to back lights up all the lines, while side to side doesn't. The more densely I can pack LEDs the better though. I considered El wire, but I think it's a bit too thick and I want to keep the lines thin but defined, so they look less like holes in the model and more like a feature of the landscape.
I've just thrown together these supports on the inside and they don't seem to impact the light pattern at all, so I think if I do some that are spaced more consciously it should be alright.

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damn, shouldn't have updated

>>2998743
The bed doesn't have springs. It's a completely custom built by an "engineer" who decided to ignore all of my advice when building it. Wasn't as much an issue with a glass plate, since that is rigid (and the heating element is powerful enough to ensure that localized cold spots don't happen), but when transitioning to PIE plates, the issue stared appearing.

But obviously, it worked! For like 3-4 prints until the warp became was too much.

>>2998835
What is the heated bed itself? A PCB heater? Aluminium slab is the way to go for warp-resistance, maybe you can tame any warping by bolting a sufficiently rigid frame to the underside of the bed instead. Worst case you just add shims, layers of aluminium tape on the sheet magnet should work fine.

>>2998876
An oven heating element. Probably if I make an X-Structure or something, like originally intended to. The problem is it's an old bed slinger, and the bed is already quite heavy for the single motor that drives it. So I am limited by the Y axis, in terms of speed, and I don't know if the additional weight would cause it to become even slower.
Which isn't great, even simple parts take a while already. Used to be faster but the sheer amount of not-well-thought-out modifications over the years led to this.

>>2998883
>bed slinger
Oh man. I guess I'd go for shims then, do a bed mesh when cold and then when hot to see if it's a thermal expansion issue, if so then you'll have to remesh it for every different bed temperature, and try to shim it to some compromise temperature that makes the coldest and hottest bed temps not too bowed. Do you ever print TPU, with its recommended 35C bed? Or nylon or polycarbonate?

Also post a photo or diagram of that oven heating element, because I can't picture how that would work at all.

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is it supposed to be stupid annoying to dial in solid infill flow rate/spacing? i cant seem to find any premade calibration 3mfs for this specifically, and the other calibration prints seem to not hone in on my problem, which is just the tiniest overextrusion, which adds up after 10-20+ layers and results in a garbage top surface that makes the next one worse. im using an sv08 and orca slicer for reference. also heres part of a fursuit cause ppics get replies.

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>>2998900
>bed mesh when cool and hot
Already did that, although a 11x11 mesh cool and 15x15 (the diagram your saw, I got lazy and made Claude make me a python script to visualize it from the console output since I don't like the diagrams in Klipper, and the select text thing in Klipper FUCKING SUCKS). The problem exists already in the cool state, but is exacerbated by the heat warping. Never printed TPU. Only ever PLA, ABS and PETG. I'm a big fan of ABS, what can I say? My prints from years ago on that hold up well.

I think what happened was that over time the heating element dragged the aluminum plate down by gravitational pull, which is why it wasn't a problem before. Then, after a while of sitting, the bed deformed, and the heating/cooling did the rest.

Not gonna give you a picture, but maybe tomorrow I make you a diagram anon. What I really need with this machine is pic related and a bottle of holy machine spirit oil.

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>>2998905
I err on the side of slight underextrusion. Ratio of 0.955 I think. You're never going to fill in all the gaps between the walls anyway, especially without brick-layers. But I haven't exactly done strength tests to see whether I'm weakening my prints by 5% or by 25%.

Orca does have an extrusion ratio test, pic related, though it is only a few mm tall so you're not going to get too precise of a result. Maybe you can stretch it taller.

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>>2998908
ive used those cards before and they were fine, but they are only ~3-4mm thick so the issue doesnt show itself in them. at some point i lost my orca settings and im reconfiguring it now. ill have to try making them taller and going off that.

these skadis hooks are 8mm thick in the stl, but im getting up to .5mm over overextrusion on them. im already dropping the solid infil flow rate to 95% and line width to .5mm, but the issue seems somewhat inconsistent. my pla filament is at ~13% humidity according to the sunlu drier box i have. ill try dropping the infill flow rate a bit more and see where it goes.

>>2998913
If you're getting inconsistencies, it may be that your extruder is struggling a bit with that filament at your maximum flow rate, so I'd print your test specimens at a low speed to get the worst case scenario.
Also that stringing is NOT what you should be getting from PLA, what did you dry it at 35C? Or is it some strange blend, or with carbon fibres?

>>2998914
i suspect the stringing is from setting the seam to random and scarfing the outer walls, in combination with suboptimal pressure advance settings. im not opposed to doing some postprocessing so the stringing doesnt bother me, but it would be nice to avoid.

its sunlu pla black and im drying at 40c. ive had issues with the extruder gear stripping the filament and it winding up stuck in the head, so it may be related to the extruder not performing as it should. i have the max volumetric speed set at 17mm^2/s for this filament becuse it seems like it can take it, but ill also run a test with it lower; id like to try and keep it high because it massively affects the speed of the prints. id rather mess with settings for a bit before buying a new hotend assembly, but if thats what it takes id rather that than print dogshit all the time.

>>2998917
>40c
I'd dry it closer to 45, though that really depends on how much you trust the heat distribution of your drier. Ideally your drier would measure internal humidity and tell you how much moisture your roll is releasing, but we do not live in such a world yet.

>>2998906
I just came to the conclusion that maybe, by clamping the PIE plate onto a glass plate, I could get entirely around this issue. It's retarded, but it just might work.

>>2998920
I'm surprised we don't see spring steel build plates on top of glass more often, but I guess the thermal conductivity of glass is reason enough not to. Now glass *underneath* a PCB heater might be pretty good, though differential thermal expansion might result in even more warping if you don't let them slide over one another.

>>2998929
Hmmm...both interesting propositions. But the thing is, since I don't use a PCB heater, I can actually use the heating element to it's fullest potential. Glass is wonderful and lovely, especially with Kapton, but only if the Z-Probe works...

>>2998919
ill give these all a try. thanks, fingers crossed i can get this thing dialed in well. kinda sick of fucking with the printer instead of the prints.

>>2998939
Could also just be that your filament is old and shitty. If it's stringing, it's expanding in the nozzle, and so you're bound to get inconsistent extrusion too. I couldn't say whether that could be fixed by drying. Sunlu recommend a 50C drying temp, if that doesn't work maybe the filament has irreversably hydrolysed.

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>>2998734
you need multi-material. you print the supports in a different material and they separate like butter. gets a nice clean under and easy to remove.

also why not translucent filament? you can go a lot thinner without the slots and I understand you're fixed on that first idea but with a modern machine you shouldn't be. See the 10k variants on moon lamp to see what I'm talking about.

>>2998760
this is fire actually, instead of glue just make them a little wider than the frame with feet so they clip in. I fucking hate glue, glue is for broken prints not putting prints together in the first place.

>>2998941
>you need multi-material
Dumb question, but can I print the supports first and then print the landscape on top? Idk how I'd do a multi-material print without buying a completely different printer, or getting the multi-filament "upgrade" for the CC (which gets rid of the lid and vents fumes into the room which is a no-go).
>also why not translucent filament?
Mostly because of the multi material "problem". The slots seemed like a good compromise that worked with a single material. Swapping materials in multiple passes wasn't something that occurred to me or seemed possible (if it is).
Again, I'm brand new to this. The most I've printed so far was the boat, and then an adapter I made to vent the fumes outside.

>instead of glue just make them a little wider than the frame with feet so they clip in.
That kinda makes sense. Print out the strips on the side, give the base a little lip, then use the compression of the plastic to keep it in place like a spring. Printing on the sides would lean into the look anyway since the layer lines would go horizontally across the model.
Honestly when the dude first mentioned it, it didn't really make a lot of sense to me. But it's actually a really good idea now that I've pictured it in my head. Might be a good idea to have keyed slots for the strips to locate into so they're all perfectly aligned as well.
This definitely seems like the way to go. I had my reservations about printing it vertically anyway, since I felt like it'd be hard to do bridging with height changes, even if I supported the fuck out of it.

Thanks once again everyone. You've been pretty patient with me and super helpful. Making things in 3d in Blender is cool, but I never really thought about how things would work in the real world. Printing them really forces me to think about the structural and engineering part of things that I never would have considered.

>>2998943
>can I print the supports first and then print the landscape on top
Only if the nozzle never goes lower than the supports. A flat raft of support material would work, but something contoured wouldn't, the travel moves would just crash into the supports, even if the nozzle had sufficient clearance. If you used a non-planar slicer though it would be a different story.

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>>2998900
Sometimes, his genius is almost frightening.

>>2998965
ups the "To" should say "Top aluminum plate"

>>2998941
>>2998944
Anon might be able to pull it off with something like FullControl (https://www.reddit.com/r/FullControl/), e.g. by making a support layer and then a top layer over that which would circumvent the problem of running into the support, but it'd be a hella difficult print to pull off.

>>2998943
you're at the point where you should start printing and see for yourself. the actual printing is cheap as shit, time and the printer are your investments.

also you're printing in PLA and ostensibly PETG for the multi-material, what fucking fumes are you talking about?

also you can use translucent filament as support for itself, it's not like one excludes the other and it's still just PLA

Oh yeah before I forget, I got a survey from prusa today which pretty clearly indicates they want to move to subscription based services. Subscription based "pro" soccer being the most obvious but they had questions about modeling and printers (although not any about actual premium printer features, just an "easy" button). idk, printables trying to be maker world but for a fee seems abysmally stupid to me.

>>2998996
*soccer == slicer, dum fone

>>2998996
>I got a survey
Oh, I deleted that survey. Should I take it? I'm totally against any kind of subscription shit.

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Some fuckery I did a few weeks ago. My tiny attic was getting too humid with constant rain, fixed the leaks then made this frame for 2 low powered pc fans to extract air. It's worked pretty well so far, no more mold, or shitty smells (had to deep clean every surface before)

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>>2998990
I have it pretty much worked out and I am going to start printing.
Gonna have a little base with a track to use as the base for the mountaiin, each of the strips are printed separately and have fingers that point inward that lock into the track. They're all printed sideways, but at the last few layers, I swap out to a transparent filament.
Slide them all down the track piece by piece and the mountain is pretty much finished. Then I can take that whole piece and drop it into a tray that has the side covers, and the holder for the acrylic sheet.

>the actual printing is cheap as shit, time and the printer are your investments.
I like to have thing planned out in advance rather than throwing things at the wall. I'm used to time being an investment, since rendering shit out takes forever with 3d animation, but I'd rather have a solid plan to work towards over a dead end.

>what fucking fumes are you talking about?
"Apparently" 3d printing puts out a shitload of fumes that you shouldn't breathe over an extended period of time. Whether or not that's true, I'd rather not gamble if it's an easy fix to just vent it out the window.
It's in my bedroom, since that's the only place I have space to put it, so I'm going to be exposed to it regardless, just less since it's going outside.

>>2999028
>key compounds that come off PLA during printing are lactide (a building block of the plastic itself), caprolactam, and propylene glycol. Aldehydes like octanal, nonanal, and decanal are also commonly detected. Although I'd wager it isn't that much. Much worse with ABS (Styrene!). The other problem with 3D printing are fine to ultra-fine particles.
The health effects of which onto humans, to my current knowledge, are still being researched. Not sure what fumes PETG releases.

And no, it's not "Apparently". It does release fumes (along with the cloud of fine/ultrafine particulate matter), this has been subject of research for many years already. It's just not certain if, and how much, effect on the human body this stuff has.

>>2999034
Then yes.
Those fumes. Hence printing enclosed and with a vent. The CC Canvas gets rid of the lid, so there's no venting the fumes. Other anon was acting like it was a non-issue and there were no fumes. In a subject of uncertainty where the margin of error is your quality of life, I'd rather err on the safe side.

Who has converted their ender 3 into something useful?

>have some old nylon
>bubbles
>dry it for 8 hours at 70
>bubbles
>dry it for a day
>bubbles
>repeat again
>bubbles
does it ever stop bubbling

>>2999057
Gotta dry it at 80-90C if you want it to be fast. MyTechFun did a video on drying nylons at different temperatures that you might want to take a look at. If you're going to be printing nylons, I'd want to get something equivalent to the Sunlu E2, that can properly dry the filament and anneal the prints.

>>2999057
microwave(if gf/unreinforced) or oven at 90-110C if a dryer isn't cutting it.

>>2999028
3d printing fumes will give you tits.
Whether or not you like that is up to you.

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Having first layer issues with an A1 mini, right out of the box

>ran calibration, failed about 5 times on the auto bed leveling step
>finally succeeded, printed a scraper and a tolerance coin. Nothing moves on the latter, first few layers seem all fused
>ran bed leveling again, hasn't succeeded once 10+ attempts
>did bed tramming, read comments about how I shouldn't even be doing this in 2026 but w/e fixes it I'm up for it
>bed leveling step still shitting the bed

I have a support ticket but they just recommend inane shit like 'clean the plate' 'check the nozzle is secured/check the extruder's screws'. They suggested the tramming themselves

Any ideas beyond this?

>>2999116
>ran calibration, failed about 5 times on the auto bed leveling step
How is that not instantly a return? I don't have an A1 but you shouldn't be having adhesion issues with the PEI plates, ESPECIALLY the new ones that have craters. You could try unscented aquanet hairspray, but if their calibration is failing how is that your problem? Speak to whoever you bought it from. Also, what filament?

>>2999116
Bambu support kinda sucks because they're either giving you the "This retarded woman just bought a 3D printer for her 9 year old kid" or "Okay, we see the issue, here's a replacement" and there's not really any in-between.
I've experienced both.

My suggestion would to immediately demand a refund. You have 14 days after you receive a printer to get a full refund, and you wanna request that right away, even if it's fixable, you don't wanna get to day 15 and not be able to refund, you know? Plus, it'll almost certainly light a fire under their ass to actually help you. (Do not accept any compensation until you have a fully working printer)

I've literally never had a Bambu printer fail its calibration, so I have no advice really beyond "It absolutely should not fucking do that and there's probably something wrong there".


If you bought the printer from like Bestbuy or Microcenter or whatever, just return it to them and they'll probably just swap it out for you right there and then.

I had a Prusa back in 2019 and it was pretty solid. I've been out of the hobby for a few years and I want to get a Core One L but it seems these Chinese brands have really stepped it up.

>>2999052
bookends?

>>2999034
>along with the cloud of fine/ultrafine particulate matter
you know that's from the gloves they used to test for microplastics, right?

>>2999028
you can put a pause in your print so you don't have to watch like a hawk for the right time to swap filaments

>>2999131
bambu is great but their success is due to getting into the market early. I've been rocking a day 1 x1c and have caused more than one a1 purchase but I wouldn't just assume they're better today. I would rather have a tool changer for multi material, the AMS-type systems are a big fault point. I wouldn't not buy bambu, but they're no longer ahead of everyone.

>>2999131
Bambu is in a really strong position. And has really cornered the market on home 3D printing. Their shit is generally good, generally works and has a lot of community support behind it.

I'd say if you just want a 3D printer. Get a Bambu.
If you want specifically a multi-material printer to print toys and gadgets in PLA, get a Snapmaker U1.
If you're an industrial engineer who wants to recommend what printer his company gets. Get a Prusa.

>>2999133
No, it's localized around the hot end.

>>2999138
is your face around the hot end?

>>2999121
eSUN Pla +. I have various other (bambu/sunlu/local brand) but I wanted to keep that variable out until the first calibration cleared
>>2999125
Yeah the support has varied in consistency, it almost feels like multiple people have been handling the case by now.

I really wanted to make it work but I'll take your advice and just return this. Thanks.

>>2999139
I am not going to argue with a troglodyte who understands neither thermodynamics nor particle physics.

>>2999149
He's probably white, unlike us based Indians.

>>2999145
You should be having zero issues with pla. I was hoping you might be trying ABS/ASA or something but it seems like your printer is defective. I would just make them swap it.

>>2999149
I aced thermodynamics and fluid dynamics at Purdue while getting my engineering degree son. If you think this has anything to do with particle physics you're dumber than you seem.

>>2999154
I aced thermodynamics and fluid dynamics at Mumbai University while getting my bloody engineering degree, basterd.

>>2999155
higher education tip: next time someone says "degree" you say "masters", and if they say "masters" you say "PhD". stay scared of plastic kid.

>>2999156
higher caste tip: next time someone says "dalit" you say "brahmin", and if they say "brahmin" you say "aryan"/ stay scared of plastic, sir

>>2999116
Looks like it’s printing too close to the bed. How do Bambu machines handle Z-offset anyhow? Ask you to manually jog it down until the paper stops moving?

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>>2999166
They don't mention paper, just 'move the bed so visually it almost touches the heatbed'

I found that to be too vague so I used paper, making it so the paper could move but I still felt drag. Didn't work
The replacement process is turning to be a shitfest (bought it on sale though a 3rd party, so I'm only being offered to return it, no replacing) so I'm thinking of trying again by visual inspection

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What happened to Thingiverse? Search results and even the featured things on their frontpage lead to this page.

>>2999191
Probably doing some censorship because blue states are trying to completely lock down printers

>>2999116
If you take a good look at the different parts of your printer like the heat bed and nozzle you will likely notice something obviously wrong/broken.
These things don't normally happen with Bambus unless there is seriously something wrong.

>>2999154
Sure you have buddy.

>>2999136
>industrial engineer who wants to recommend what printer his company gets
I really feel like Bambu fucked up with this point. I know multiple companies who would really like to buy Bambu but simply cannot for security reasons and instead pay double or triple for a slightly inferior Prusa.

>>2999166
>>2999170
After two years of daily printing I have never had to even think about Z offset on my Bambu P1S. I have no idea how I would even adjust it.

Because the nozzle physically touches the build plate the Z offset is set correctly with a very high likelihood without any need for tuning. Sometimes I get a clump of plastic on the nozzle which interferes with the bed leveling process.

wtf do people use to make quick little edits to stl files? Meshmixer flat out doesn't load, you need a degree in 3d modeling to use Freecad, and everything else needs an account to use.

>>2999214
beefy computer, fusion 360 convert to solid, do your edits, rescale if needed, and hope shit doesn't crash.

>>2999201
Even then, Prusa's support and servicing blows Bambu out the water.
I feel like companies expect a better service than Bambu's "Submit a ticket and wait 2-3 days for a potentially useful reply".
Whilst I'm sure they're offering something more direct for actual businesses, that shit is not cheap, and is almost certainly still very Chinese compared to Prusa where you just talk to a guy.

>>2999136
Can't recommend bambu without mentioning that they have been clamping down hard on consumer freedom, retroactively blocking thirdparty software, and throwing lawyers at anyone who dares oppose them.
If you want something that just works and don't mind being forced into their proprietary ecosystem, then it's fine. I just wouldn't be that comfortable given their tendency to alter the deal after the fact.

>>2999228
I mean, yeah.
But what's the alternative?

>>2999230
Depends on what you need, there's obviously Prusa, but there's also qidi, 22idex, funmat, quite a few others.

>>2999231
I wouldn't say that any printer from china is going to be any more secure than Bambu is.
And printers made in the west tend to be significantly more expensive.

It's a shitty situation, desu. (And it's only gonna get worse)

>>2999233
the issue is more to do with Bambu behaving the way it is rather than security.
Printers shouldn't be connected to the internet anyway.

>>2999233
A lot of the chinese printers can be reflashed with custom firmware, I don't mind that as a middle ground. Lots of the more recent ones are just a custom UI on top of klipper, reverting it to stock klipper is an easy solution.

>>2999214
wings3d if I just want to shuffle around some points

>>2998229
this nigga finally came in the mail
i think the previous owner returned it because the frame wasnt level? it looks pretty much brand new and leveling the frame was easy
half the rollers were way too loose aswell, doubt it ever printed anything
it's calibrating the bed right now and there dont seem to be any issues
so yeah got a new neptune 3 pro for 50% off

>>2999228
>forgets to mention you can run your printer in lan mode and connect it to orca slicer
Typical lol

>>2999244
Orca slicer?
You mean software you download from the internet?
How much do you trust that exactly?

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>>2999237
chuddah print done
looks like it fucked up some parts
should i try to fix this before i install klipper?

>>2999247
I'm sure you can connect it to your own personally made slicer too

>>2999249
If you aren't building your own 3D printer and writing your own software for it, are you really 3D Printing?

>>2999244
>forgets to mention all of the compromises and lost functionality of switching to lan mode, just to get a standard option that every other major printer supports out of the box
Typical lol

>>2999252
>forgets to mention all of the compromises and lost functionality of switching to lan mode
You mean like...not being able to use bambu servers? What doesn't work the same otherwise? Go ahead, list it.

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>>2999215
>>2999236
Literally all I want to do is make the solid part on the right of this lid to have some sort of honeycomb pattern, why is it so hard to do this?

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>>2999256
import, plane, sketch, make the part solid, extrude your pattern, pray it doesn't crash, export as stl, check that stl dimensional shennanigans haven't taken place, and print.
Hell, upload the part to catbox and I'll film a quick process on how to do it sometime over the weekend/office day monday.
Alternatively, you could also do it in the slicer with a solid modifier, making it a stacked honeycomb infill with no top or bottom layer.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=leHHulARH9Q
bambu slicer and prusaslicer have similar capabilities.

>>2999256
If you just want simple bools some slicers can do that, though it wont be precise.

>>2999256
https://litter.catbox.moe/yjoszm.mp4
here, I'm bored as fuck at the office.

>>2999261
fucking obs not recording the right click menu, and I thought I had turned audio off.
first step was right click->add modifier-modifier type.
size it accordingly, place it accordingly, go into the per object editing, select your infill values and type, then remove top and bottom layers.

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>>2999256
seems pretty trivial, here's how i'd do it in openscad

>>2999256
You should follow some cad tutorials and figure out how to do things like this yourself.

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>>2997103
Does anyone have this model of Captain Clark from the Backrooms movie?

Have you noticed gift shops selling articulated-nigger.stl type prints for 15$? Noticed that while on vacation recently.
Absolutely devious

>>2999116
>Luv my 2015 sovol printer
>Luv my shimmed bed
>Luv my custom tuned bed mesh
>Luv my z-offset setting set via clicky knob
It was simpler times but you could fix your own issues.

>>2999324
We're on Stage 2 of that now.
It's no longer that articulated slop is being made by one lad in his garage.
It's chinese slopshops are producing like batches of 1,000 of them and then random gift shops are stocking them.

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i moved my printer from the floor to a table and got a lil dryer. next mod is an sealed enclosure with a carbon scrubber

>>2999262
Huh, that's pretty much exactly what I want, thanks anon.
Do you know why it's greyed (greened) out at the bottom? Is it just a weird visual glitch?

>>2999338
its just showing the area of the modifier that sits under the printing plane.

>>2999331
I have mine on a stone slab incase it ever burns down. Maybe worth a consideration

why do bridges get completely fucked up when you print them at a higher speed?
shouldnt closing the gap be more important than cooling the filament?
anyways after fucking around all day with all kinds of stuff i think i finally got my printer dialed in
printed one of those tiny whistles with 0.08 layerheight at 45mm/s and it looks pretty much perfect

>>2999411
I'm guessing when you go slow, it cools along the bridge and kinda creates structure in the air. While going fast will go across fast enough, but the filament is still hot and just ends up drooping. Going slow uses the strength of the cooler filament to stretch out to the point that it can't hold it any more, rather than wet-noodling it across.

>>2999411
Part cooling fans can simply cool a certain number of cubic millimetres per second. Go too fast and you exceed that threshold. Use twin 5015 fans.

>>2997724
Let us know if you repost it somewhere. Looks cool as shit

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>>2999028 >>2998782
Been plucking away at this in the background.
I tried the tray idea I had where they lock in, but quickly decided after that print that it wasn't worth it, and that a channel in the base would be simpler and do the same thing. Also had to thicken the slices because when I had the tray, they'd bend in an arc or forward/back instead of sitting flat against each other.
I also learned that the model and the slices themselves are fucking small. They look super big and chunky in Blender, but when you print it out it really drives home what scale you're working at. Even with calipers next to my mouse for reference, it still seems abstract and larger than what gets printed out.

But yeah, pic related is the result of my last test. I chopped the model up to test the front, and some of the taller bits. Layer height is pretty large just to see how things fit together. I'd like to figure out a way to print some of the base on the side to make the terrain on the border a bit cleaner. The mountainous part isn't too bad, but the plains area is looking pretty shit.
I've got some Flashforge Burnt Titanium PLA coming in the mail along with some transparent filament, so I think by the time that's in I'll be ready to go.

>>2999497
What will the transparent PLA be for? The gaps between the slices?

Are you going to wall-mount it?

>>2999499
So originally (>>2998734) I had wanted to print it with holes/slots to let light shine through to have the lines be lit up.
The holes were kind of a problem (though I guess not so much now), but an anon mentioned swapping to transparent PLA for the last few layers to do the same thing, which I think will work better than holes. If it doesn't, I think I can do the holes and not run into any issues now.
And nah, it's going to be a diorama that sits flat like >>2998782

>>2999504
Manual filament swap? I was thinking about just printing thinner clear slices seperately and stacking them together, but all as one print would probably look a bit better. Or at least require less post-processing, sanding the top surface bumps. You could schedule a bunch of filament changes, and print it all in one go.

Yeah too small for a wall I guess. I was thinking if you had a 300x300 printer, you could print 300mm long slices and arrange them on a 300x900mm wall artwork.

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>>2999505
I could print separate transparent slices, but I'm gonna just do it manually with swaps. The bright side is that all the strips are the same thickness, so I can just chuck a shitload of them onto the bed, and have the gcode pause at a layer, swap, and it does all of them at the same time. I have 50 slices, a 256x256 bed should be able to fit a good handful of them I think (5-6 for the taller slices, and 15-20 of the shorter ones).
I'm trying to use as much of the space as I have to make as big a model as I can, at least without cutting it up more.

It would be cool to try and make a version that's wall art though. Squash all of the dimensions so it has some depth but not as much. I might give that a try after. It'd be as simple as scaling down all of the slices by whatever value, and maybe altering the base to angle upwards towards the wall for forced perspective.

>>2999508
Yeah if you don't have an AMS, multiple slices per bed is the way to go. You could still do multiple layers and multiple slices all at once, but that would mean going to your printer every 40 minutes to do a manual swap. Actually I'd do the clear layers first, that way it's only ten minutes or so after starting the print and it will finish by itself.

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is there a trick for printing delicate parts?
tried printing a mini infinity cube to see if my printer was capable of it but i had to pry open the bottom layer with a knife
or is my z offset just too low?

>>2999514
>or is my z offset just too low?
If you have to pry it off the bed, then probably. I see a bit of what could be elephant's foot, you can tune that out in your slicer, same for first layer flow ratio, but best to stick to the defaults and get the Z offset properly tuned I say.

>>2999516
i calibrated it a bunch of times today and lowered it until i saw the clear inprint of my bed in the prints, it's really hard to get the prints off the bed now
i guess i went too low
ty for the help

I've had an FDM printer for 10 years but mine is finally dying and I don't feel like fixing it anymore. I bought a Saturn 4 Ultra and god damn I have fallen in love with resin printing compared to FDM. But my first request to print something on it is a full-size staff and I'm trying to figure out if it's going to be more of a pain printing in resin or if I should go back to FDM for this one.

Does anyone have a favorite video where a large prop is made from start to finish with a resin printer?

>>2999454
Thank you anon, atm it's only up on Cults3D as the other sites take it down within a few days. "Space marine action figure"

>>2999699
catbox, then link it here/ tg's 3dpg.
probably the best bet for getting anons to find it.

What's the best 3D printer to get if I want to tear it down and learn how they work? I don't care about results, I just want to mess around with it and see how they work.

>>2999769
a voron kit.
instead of tearing one down you build it up.
then you tear it down to upgrade it down the line because you're understanding of the machine makes obvious upgrades for how you use it SO much more obvious.

>>2999775
Voron V0.2 looks cool, and useful. Is there a trusted site to get one? I see there are "legit" kits and cheaper Chinese ones.

>>2999777
vorons are self sourced, so ANY kit is just some group sourcing the bits in bulk.
i went for a formbots 2.4 kit like, 4 years ago, and the only issues i had were with them telling me it was out of stock, and when they refunded me it was like $100 short from exchange costs, so i had to argue with them about that, and ended up getting the bigger printer for the original price with them eating the cost difference of the original payment.

check the reviews.