Stainless or Alum M10 threaded rivets for my new Tarpon 16i grab handles?I butchered the removal of one the holes, so will be "cleaning up" to about 1/2" hole for new inserts, which is fine because they musta used a trained snake to install the inside nut and washers, so going big should be fine.I'm thinking aluminum because stainless might be at the outer limits of the rivet tool I'm buying. Its not like this boat spends THAT much time in water, much less salt.Thots?M10 say grip is from 1mm to 4mm, and boat hull is about 3mm, and plastic, so that should be fine.Any tips to prevent over crushing? I guess I'll do a few practice crushes and gauge how far the arms swing for that distance?
just found this....Not reliably. The Cionyce 3/8" Rivet Nuts are designed for metal sheets, pipes, and rigid materials. The installation process applies concentrated force that can crack, split, or deform most plastics—especially thinner ones.Why it doesn't work well on plastic:•The rivet gun pressure needed to set the nut properly can fracture brittle plastic•The knurled body has no grip advantage on smooth plastic surfaces
>>3000508use a stainless steel body washer on either side to give it something to grip into and distribute the force. If you haven't already ordered the rivet nut tool, I got one of the ratcheting style ones and it absolutely kicks ass. It came with a bunch of riv-nuts too, and I haven't tried the 3/8 ones, but the 5/16 ones were super easy to install with the ratcheting style. https://www.amazon.com/TOLRET-Mandrels-Assortment-Professional-TR21/dp/B0CJBFKCPS/ref=sr_1_1_sspaOr I seriously just got done supergluing, with bonding powder, (baking soda also works well) some riv-nuts to the back of a plastic dash bezel to give it some metal threads for a fuel selector switch to screw into. Pic rel. The original plastic that the screws were supposed to grip had busted out. You could use epoxy as well.
