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I need to make huge, heavy, *SOUND BLOCKING* (there's a train right outside...) curtains for these windows. 55" TV for scale.

Rate my plan please:

>Ordered 40 yards of 480gsm wool melton as the main fabric
>Ordered 40 yards of cotton flannel as a backer
>Purchased a vintage Singer 201-2 sewing machine (electric, walking food, heavy duty)
>Going to just fold the melton around the cotton and stitch 15x5 rectangular panels with a rod pocket in the top or maybe just fabric loops unsure
>Going to use tension cable or black gas pipe for the rod unsure
>Either in front or behind the pillars not sure yet (there's a ~5" gap between them and the brick), third option is fit to the window frames showing all of the brick, again unsure

AI wanted me to add a third layer of fabric in the middle (cotton bump or mass loaded vinyl) and use buckran and pleat tape and add corner weights and shit but I figured that was all excessive.

Thoughts? Recommendations?
I've never made anything from scratch out of fabric before.
>>
Here's my fancy new sewing machine if anybody cares
>>
>zero appreciation for the opportunity to railfan from home in your gay ass bathrobe
>>
>>3001420
Why are you squatting in a telegraph station built in 1860?
>>
>>3001420
please tell. me. you didnt buy a train station because it was cheap
>>
>>3001423
I am planning to hook up a camera and live stream the yard on twitch or something.

I like the windows and the trains during the day but some of them are super loud and when they're hooking up heavy cars and switching or whatever at night it sounds like I live in Ukraine. I just wanna sleep man.
>>
>>3001427
Furniture factory built in the 20s I think. So e of the apartments still have the wooden cranes or roll doors in them. I wanted a roll door apartment so I could park my motorcycle in the living room but they were occupied.
>>
>>3001429
I am renting a 1420sqft studio factory loft because it was kino but cheap
>>
Anon it's cheap because the sound problem cannot be remedied.
>>
just get earplugs
>>
>>3001448
Sorry but I'm different
I will succeed where there have failed
>>
File: 1558430929201.gif (2.59 MB, 800x450)
2.59 MB GIF
>>3001494
180° phase inversion
>>
>>3001420
none of this will work because the vibrations will go through the ground in to the building, and there is no way to economically block the sound.

>AI said...
your fucked.
>>
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>>3001494
>I will succeed where there have failed
>>
>>3001420
awesome place
good luck
>>
>>3001420
Seal window with plugs to see how much sound remains from bricks. If most sound indeed leak through windows then you can intall double window.
>>
You are not going to block significant amounts of sound with curtains.

The absolute best you can hope for is to construct a second wall made from backer board and mineral wool, sealed very tightly to the surrounding walls. This is wildly optimistic since you appear on the second floor, so unless you downstairs are also committed to this project, the sound will travel harshly through the floors.

Soundproof panels might help, but, again, they'd have to be absolutely everywhere, and the windows would be unforgiving to this effort.

Curtains are a joke.
>>
It would be easier and cheaper to build a wall outside between the windows and the train track. But you're renting so you basically can't do shit. Get used to wearing sound cancelling headphones and start looking for quieter rentals.
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>>3001420
>i'm gonna sound proof a LITERAL TRAIN passing 10 meters outside my windows with some curtains
lemao
anon, for your information. the curtains(or anything else, really) are gonna do jack shit against the sound and vibrations traveling those 10 meters through the ground and into your entire house
>>
Sleep in a sound cancelling cocoon hammock or some shit
>>
>>3001420
I lived near a cargo train line for a few years about 25 yards away. They used to couple and break at night.

Took me about 3 weeks to get acclimated and I slept without any problems

If you want to improve the noise levels you should get a bit into acoustics.
Lots of common sound "canceling" widgets work mainly on reverb. If the problem isn't reverb you need some other approaches.

Which frequencies annoy you? High pitched (easy to insulate) or lower pitched (basically impossible if you don't build a floating room).
Look at the chart, this shows your main problem: if you have a lower frequency noise you can't absorb it sensibly.

For a quick check: Record the noise with the phone, check if you can hear it. Put it into audacity put on the spectrogram view. If the noise is into the higher frequency bands (good) if it's lower (bad)

In summary: If it's low frequency noise you either pray to God for help and/or you should start looking for a new apartment
>>
build padded standoffs for floor, walls, and ceiling and make rooms within rooms like a TV set. replace windows or """install""" (long lasting acoustic caulk) an extra set of windows to achieve an extra glazing layer
>>
You will not be able to build anything that will fix this problem that's convenient or looks nice or is cheap. Even if you do it "right" (which you can't, because you're renting), it will only mitigate SOME specific noise levels, the cost WILL be several hundred, if not thousands of dollars of acoustic dampening material, it will look awful and it will take up a massive portion of that room.

Considering your situation, I assume you're probably not connected to anyone... what you should do is use it as an opportunity and sink your money into a huge TV or projector and some massive speakers and make a poor man's home theater. Loud and proud, baby.

Or just buy the earplugs and enjoy the train noises, ya dummy.
>>
used to work at a high end fabric wall sound insulation contractor. clients were whos who of Silicon Valley, but I'm not going to drop names

99% was this shit covered with fabric.https://www.acoustimac.com/owens-corning-703-1-12?utm_term=&utm_campaign=Shopping+-+Insulation+2025&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&hsa_acc=4716037441&hsa_cam=22260951023&hsa_grp=178822691881&hsa_ad=733832938043&hsa_src=g&hsa_tgt=pla-2308752932606&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gad_source=4&gad_campaignid=22260951023&gclid=CjwKCAjw1bvTBhBbEiwAzbP8L5v--ueyTH1R947Oq91YLBPZQtCP9uK7W5sDOg_QLgQOqnLikxmnkRoCguYQAvD_BwE

I don't think just fabric will do jack shit.

Best bet might be finding when someone is demo a bunch of drop ceiling, then cover the tiles in fabric.

Another idea is a bunch of plastic covered R-13 batts in 16 or 24" size, cut to 8' long and long lasting Duct Taped shut. At least they will likely be useful when you move.

PS-"active noise cancellation" doesn't seem to work, and probably causes insanity.
>>
>>3002075
>record wound
>put it into audacity
>spectrogram view
What is spectroid?
>>
>>3002614
>not acquiring 5GHz spectrum analyzer
>not hooking a studio condensor microphone up to it through an audio LP filter
>not running GNSS disciplined oscillators as frequency standard
NGMI
>>
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>>3001420
Your main problem is the hundred tons of steel rolling right next to you, a bunch of wool isn't going to do shit when the literal foundations of your place, the walls and the ceiling are directly coupled to it through a hard and solid material.
You're only going to get rid of SOME high frequency vibrations but to completely or reasonably get rid of the sound altogether at that distance especially for a brick building would require recording studio levels of soundproofing, building a literal "box within a box" inside the room held off the floor with dampening supports and heavily covered in different soundproofing materials.

What really kills the sound's energy isn't the material it's going through but the changes in frequency as it travels through materials with different resonant frequencies. An inch of sandwiched drywall/asphalt sheet/drywall is better than ten inches of foam or wool on their own.
And even if you went that far (I don't have to tell you how incredibly expensive this becomes) it only takes a single solidly coupled contact between the wall/floor/ceiling to the interior drywall through say, a stud or a screw, for the sound to get through.
Obviously it would be nowhere near as annoying if that was the only place it was leaking through but to go back to my point, a bunch of wool isn't going to stop the incredibly powerful vibrations from traveling a mere 20 meters through the floor and into every surface in your room which becomes a speaker
>>
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>>3003251
Oh and this is completely getting rid of the windows and bricking them up to bring up the mass dampening of the main wall, if you want windows it can get an order of magnitude or two more expensive as you'd need to either get custom made (not something you can easily do yourself) super fucking thick studio windows with a bunch of different thickness panes acoustically insulated between one another and not coupled from the outside to the inside through a single solid frame but multiple "floating" ones, or have two sets of windows completely separate from one another which will probably make it impossible to clean the outside windows or even open them at all

In short, you're just going to waste your money on some fancy blackout curtains and still have to sleep with earplugs unless you spend 10-20 grand to get the room up to a professional level of soundproofing

Alternatively, you can blow up the train tracks
>>
>>3001420
Protip: dont live in what was a factory/warehouse 100 years ago
>>
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>>3001420
High frequency noise can be blocked using adapted window panes, with multiple glass plates of different thicknessess.
Your main problem is, as >>3003251 points out, that vibrations will propagate into the very foundations of the building. You will have to make a floating structure, either by suspended cables or dampers such as pic. related.
>>
>>3003662
what are you afraid of? the volatile, toxic wood preservatives are plenty present in every house build before the 90s
>>
>>3001420
nothing is going to block out the sound of a fucking freight train 100 feet away.
>>
Good morning I don't want to make a new thread so this one seems nice. Do you have any solution for soundproofing a room. My problem is music. It's from far away but still don't let me sleep. My skills are next to zero in this domain.
I've installed a soundproofing window made of laminated glass (no double glazing). It worked at first but for some reason, may be took a shot from an earthquake or something, the clapper is offset from the frame. It let air, light and worst of all sound pass completely. Tried to seal it with silicone and it stopped the wind, sadly not the sound. Any tip of any nature?
>>
>>3004147
Do you have pics of what the window looks like? Is there anywhere else air/sound could come in from? Did you insulate both the exterior and interior gaps between frame and wall?
>>
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>>3004210
Here is the window closed and opened. The brand is Schüco btw if it helps. I know there is something called Acoustical Sound Sealant by Liquid Nails but I can't find it in any shop and on amazone it's no delivery where I live. It really sucks but nobody can help in my surroundings with this.
>wall
The wall isn't the problem the gaps are well sealed, the rubber seal not pressing on the frame is.
>Did you insulate both the exterior and interior
I didn't seal it properly from the outside, just partly because I underestimated the infiltration but I feel like my silicon is doing nothing.
>Is there anywhere else air/sound could come in from
Before my actual problem it was relatively silent and since nothing changed except the window so I believe there isn't any other.
>>
>>3004290
You mentioned an earthquake, if things shifted enough to upset the seal of the frame against the wall I'd look at other places air could be seeping in through. Do you have a false ceiling? Roll down blinds? (don't think so based on the pic but I'll ask anyway)

Try sealing the outside and the inside thoroughly first, if it doesn't go away check the place where the glass meets the frame if there's not a pre-made silicone seal there already
When you say the clapper is offset from the frame, what do you mean?
>>
>>3004290
I just noticed in your pic you added silicone (very shittily) to the place where the seal is meant to touch the frame, did it not touch it everywhere before? If so your problem is with the hinge adjustment, not with adding more sealant there, that's just pretty much guaranteed to remove any uniformity in the contact and make it impossible for it to seal properly
>>
>>3004291
>false ceiling? Roll down blinds
Nope.
>what do you mean?
Where the silicon is now (inside), you could see light going through, air too. I checked where the glass meet the frame already it seem from my neophyte point of view there is no problem here.
>>3004292
>did it not touch it everywhere before?
As I said, no. It have gaps big enough for air and light. The company that sold me the window sent a guy to adjust the hinge, didn't work. I think the guy offsetted it even more or may be the PVC itself is deformed.
>(very shittily)
Yeah, sorry for that i know I suck. Will try again.

Is there anything else I can do beside the window itself?
>>
>>3004294
I'd try removing the silicone where the seal is meant to touch between the frame and window and adjusting the hinge instead
Do you know the specific model?
>>
>>3004295
As I said it was already tried by people better than me, didn't do anything. I don't know the specific model.
>>
>>3004300
You'd be surprised the kind of work "handymen" perform out there these days, not a small part of the reason I DIY is because so-called "professionals" don't give a shit about quality
Try playing around with it, worst case you'll learn more about how it all works in case it ever breaks
>>
The frame needs to be square and plumb.
>>
>>3004290
for you >>3004308
>>
>>3004304
I know but I suck hard at manual labour, I can't even build a wall correctly neitherless something as precise as a soundproof device. None of the handymen knows shit about soundproofing where I live, they might be good for other things though.

Thank you anyway. I'll try my best. If it ever work out I'll make a thread here.
>>3004308
Simpler said than done.
>>
>>3001420
Don’t bother with curtains. Get plants. Two layers of trellis over the windows, grow vining plants on them. Pothos are dirt cheap and grow extremely fast. Plants are full of membranes filled with water and are effective at absorbing sound. You’ll also have very nice air quality and the lighting will make it low maintenance.
Any other soundproofing solution you’ll try will involve blocking the light or will be too costly.
You should also put a layer of interlocking foam or thick rugs on the floor, that will help with resonance you feel through the ground.
>>
>>3001443
>factory loft
lol, nobody asked what your jew landlord calls it.
>>
>>3001420
If you're willing to sacrifice a little area you'd be wise to ask a guy that specializes in soundproofing for music studios
basically you'd have to build another room inside of this room
won't really help with the windows though
>>
File: I fucked up.jpg (2.69 MB, 4816x3952)
2.69 MB JPG
Update on my window.
Tried to silicon the fuck out of the whole external frame. Couldn't open it anymore. Try to knife the silicon to open the window. Since I'm not good I cut the original seal of the window with it (pic related) not that it ever sealed anything anyway so thank god it was the outside. Doesn't seem like it gives more sound reduction even when I couldn't open it. I'm loosing the small amount of hope I had.
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>>3001421
There is literally no way that machine will handle the thickness of the material you have
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>>3001495
I've often wondered if you could do this to any level of effectiveness with speakers, or if the sound is just too multidirectional for it to have any serious effect.
>>
>>3002356
FYI dude, you can delete everything after the first ? in that link and it will work just fine. all that bullshit after the ? is just to help the website identify who shared the link, the ad campaign that surfaced it, etc etc. No need to send a 5,000 character URL
>>
>>3001420
Blocking sound requires mass
There is no getting around that
Sew some denim batt in between the front and back of your fabric
your curtains will weigh about 50lbs per window
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>>3005218
I think the best you could do is maybe a few decibels. The entire structure is vibrating through the ground. If the noise was only coming from one direction and not through the ground then phase inversion with a speaker wall would work pretty well.
>>
>>3001420
Would be a shame to block out those windows.
I would be negotiating with my landlord to have double glazed window panes fitted to the inside of those thick frames.
You could install them yourself easily enough.
>>
the endless stream of people that come to /diy/ and think they can magically block sound with a piece of foam or build an underground bunker using shipping containers is simultaneously entertaining and depressing
>>
you should be worried about all the studies that tie sleeping in loud environments to health issues. like an unignorably massive pile of them
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>>3001494
Your ambition is admirable, but ...
>>3001980
>Curtains are a joke
This
OP, there is no fucking way curtains are going to make an appreciable difference.
The ONLY reasonable way to block your train sound is to make a sound proof, isolated, airtight, room-within-a-room resting on rubber isolators or other dampers.
I build a soundproof room and it cost me a few thousand bucks.
>>
>>3005448
not OP but I'm trying to move because I live next to a busy road and it's literally killing me
>>
>>3001420
>Thoughts?

It's going to do fuck all.
>>
>>3005455
>I build a soundproof room and it cost me a few thousand bucks.
A room within a room build for a few thousand is pretty impressive. How large? Just wood construction and a ton of drywall on every surface?



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