Has anyone ever replaced a fixed window on their car before? Specifically back window glass. I had picrel painted and I took the window out because I didn't want it to look like shit with masking linesI've tried calling multiple glass shops and nobody wants to touch it as the glass is used. I have the glass and new molding so I'm unsure how to proceed. The urethane looks incredibly messy.
The glass btw
>>3002040Rubber out glass out, rubber back in glass back in. Easy as.
>>3002040It's bolt-in, it literally doesn't get any easier. Scrape off the old urethane, nicely apply a new bead of window weld, drop the window in and tighten it down. What are you even asking? You took it out.
>>3002055Basically how do I lay a nice V shaped bead
>>3002056Cut your tip like this, go slow, maybe even practice on some cardboard with an extra tube. Use your finger along the edge of glass to guide the tip, don't hold it in a spot if pumping or else tons will come out in one spot. Use primer if you've scraped off all the old urethane. Also the molding is probably held in with the urethane itself. Get a power caulk gun if you value your hands otherwise you need one with high thrust ratioOh and all urethane is basically the same, just some cures faster than others for pros/people that need to drive away in an hour. Leave it for 24 hours and don't slam the car doors with windows closed. One other thing, to help with alignment, test fit the glass without any adhesive, and use a marker to make a few witness marks on glass/roof so you can pop the glass down and get it perfect>>3002055It can be tricky, too much and it's gonna ooze inside and running something so thick is daunting
>>3002040Its been many years since I've *helped* with a rear slider in a pickup truck. But >>3002086 anon outlined it really well. Scrape it really well, clean out any dust or oils, and use a quality adhesive. I think we used CRC products in the shop I was working in. I think for rear truck sliding windows we sanded it down to bare metal then cleaned and prepped both surfaces.Use a good prep on the glass itself. Just use a few razor blades to get all the old goop off the window, prep with a good solvent and then alcohol. Don't touch any prepped surface with your fingers.You'd better get good at laying a bead of caulking because if you put a little too much it'll squish out and now you have BIG BLACK CAULK oozing out which just looks bad. Don't sweat it if you have a little, but whatever the fuck you do, do not try to wipe it away. You'll smear it and it'll look worse. For the love of Mazda, do not do this job by yourself. You have to caulk quickly before a skin sets up on the adhesive, you also have to put the glass directly in place and NOT wiggle it around for alignment. That will result in adhesive wiggling around resulting in air bubbles (poor seal) or it squishing out where you don't want it. Either have a buddy just hold the caulk gun in place for you to finish the entire ring, or know for certain he can replicate your bead. You're going to need at least 2 people to maneuver the glass into place anyway.Put the rubber trim around the glass where it should be and just test fit it in place to see how much adhesive you should be applying. The masking tape "lines" is a decent tip too. Go watch a few youtube videos.
as has been pointed out by the good advice anons, it can be messy if you fuck upit'll take a stupid amount of time, but you can blue tape around each surface to excess 'silicone' spoodges onto it instead of the glass and interioryou'll want to pull it while it's wet after you set it ini regret every silicone job i don't tape
I had a local glass guy swap w140 back glass from my parts car to another car. Was a little touch and go. He tore the connector for the defrost off, but I was able to solder it back on.Try calling non-chain glass installers, I am sure they would be happy for the business. They may want you to pay some upfront in case it breaks due to age.
>>3002040I'm surprised no one will touch it as its not that hard a job. In addition to what others have said, grab a pair of these suction cup thingis for doing glass it'll make it so much easier and you wont' leave a finger behind
>>3002218>I'm surprised no one will touch it as its not that hard a job.they want to sell him a new piece of glass. and they don't want to touch the old one in case it's damaged and op blames them when it falls apart.
>>3002225Most repair joints should have a clause for customer supplies parts somewhere, (they just don't usually warranty the work) just that glass in particular for cars over 30yo tends to become a fair bit more scarce so you end up getting what you've got. Its not even a particularly hard job either, my dad did windscreen fitting for a few years when I was younger and it was so much easier when you've got all the tools and space set up that it gets knocked over in 30minutes and 5 for a wipe down, clean and good to go in an hour or soI know the whys of course they want to upsell something but here we are in DIY and anon has to fix his own shit the hard way :(
>>3002040some Pick and Pull have Lock Shops AND glass shops (that shouldn't be scared of used glass)
>>3002218I wouldn't recommend anyone doing a singular piece of glass get a specialized unitasker tool like these suction cup handles. It simply will not make the 1 job easier, and you can't really use it anywhere else in your life. If you happen to find a pair for a trivial amount of cash, sure. But buying them for more than say, $10 would be a monumental waste of money and just end up being thrown out without any tangible benefit.
>>300288710-20 bucks to avoid a pinch point between steel and glass. Depends how much you think your fingers are worth or time off work with severed tendonsThey also work really well for moving whitefoods, fridges, freezers and dishwashers. I mean you can bodge up something equivalent with wood and gaff tape if you have to but I'm just suggesting the proper way first
