Snapmaker U1 or X2D, what do you guys think?

Or just wait.

>>3002664
U1

>>3002664
Well are you printing capeshit or functional prints?

>>3002716
I'm wanting a pla/tpu toy printer mostly for making game merch and decorative shit.

I already have a P2S for functional parts, but the lack of heater is sub optimal.

>>3002797
Probably the U1 then. Not sure how well it does with TPU, but for TPU and heated chamber maybe the X2D although the P1S would probably be better for TPU. You have to weigh how much you want to print TPU over multi color.

I've never used a 3D printer but I'm considering buying one, I'm not expecting it to be easy. I would sometimes build custom arcade-style controllers, I could use some small parts and I also see videos online of people printing larger cases for them, that would be very useful if it's viable. Specifically I want a good Virtual-On controller, buying those used seems to cost much more than a 3d printer. I found a project of a guy doing something similar but I would like to use higher quality parts and a different PCB so I'll modify it. https://github.com/Xerxes3rd/Twin-Stick-Controller If it works out I want at least 4 for myself.
Do I just buy a Bambu? What should I pay attention to? Is this a completely shitty idea? I would appreciate help.

>>3002664
Just wait.

>>3002837
>Is this a completely shitty idea?
Just get an inexpensive printer and jump in. To me the biggest challenge in 3D printing is modeling original parts, but if you are only downloading finished models then the rest is easy -- just slice and print. Today's printers don't need as much maintenance and tweaking, but even if you run into problems the learning curve is gradual. A dozen hours of YouTube tutorials will go long way.

>>3002837
Bambu is the easiest one to use. I've been to a few festivals with a few different print sellers and absolutely every last one of them has used bambu. "Oh I haven't had any luck with anything else" or "Oh I've heard terrible things about flash forge!" One or two sellers bitching online would be skill issue, and it IS a skill issue, but it's an understandable skill issue, because sellers are more interested in avoiding it altogether than having total control over the process.

HOW the fuck EVER, Bambu isn't showing any interest in adopting multi-extruder multicolor yet. They have hot end swaps, which take care of the filament waste in multicolor, but not the time. You can get a snap maker u1 if you have more of an interest in this stuff than dragons.

>>3002916
A downside of the U1 is that you are strictly limited to 4 colours.
H2C is way slower, but you can print up to 6 without waste, and potentially like 24 with (a fuck ton of) waste.
They do all feel kinda like stop-gaps right now and nothing seems to fix every issue.

>>3002916
>different print sellers
subhumans.

>>3002925
It gets people out of the house, dude. Every fest I go to with my wife has at least one table set up. Even I've got an entire orphanage with staffers that keep sending my wife home with 20s like a fucking drug patsy to get them new fidgets for themselves, their kids, their kids at home, etc.
We're looking at the advent of something that gets away from just getting all of our cheap plastic shit from China, and I like it. Cuts back on child labor over there. The sensory toys are crazy with self-diagnosing millennials, which is fun because I'm the clinical sperg that sells the fucking things to them.
This must be how the Mexicans running Native American souvenir shops feel.
>>3002920
You're only limited to 4 if you don't play around with the CYMK version of Orca. Sure, it falls apart towards the top surface, but there's still options.
Hell, just having 3 or 4 is more than 99% of the shit anyone feels like printing on a standard multi-color. I groan just having to do two on my ad5x.

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>>3002649
if you are making something how many versions do you make before you are happy? for me its always a bunch like this thing is like v12. I googled and I got results like other people have like 3 or 4 revisions. If that is you, how can you think of everything you want from the beginning?

>>3002963
Until works decently/barely enough to be boring and move onto something else.

>>3002963
Sometimes I get lucky and don't have to make any edits to a few revisions. Sometimes I have to edit my model a shit load of times just to get my ideas in order or account for unforseen design issues. Sometimes I have to remodel just for it to print the way I want. I modeled a centrifuge for 50ml containers, wish has a lot of moving parts. Some parts of my model were good on the first print, but others required more finesse. I don't beat myself up when I've got back to 3d model a part for the Nth time. It's called rapid prototyping for a reason. I also enjoy the modeling process, though. And my printer nozzle is .8 so things print faster and make it less of a headache/time sink. To answer your question regarding knowing everything you want, I suppose it's how complicated your design is and how well you can model it in your head before making it digital. I spend more time modeling it in my head like an autist before it ever gets 3d modeled.

>>3002963
For a print by itself? Maybe 1-4 times. For an entire project? Preferably just 1, I'm often fine compromising with a good enough project. But sometimes I'll come back to modify it, or to remake it entirely.

>>3002963
printed? usually like 3
digital? 30

first print reveals a MAJOR failing to understand scale, or that i've used an inside measurement for an outside reference, or that some geometry is impossible to slide parts past each other in reality.

then i do an afternoon of edits, and print again

print 2 is almost always 'close enough' but has some portion that needs re-refining that i didn't notice on the first print because it was always destined for the bin, like the heatset inserts needing more clearance to avoid blowing out an important wall, or the screws i measured the clearance of for sockethead screws now need to be countersunk, so i can either drop down 2mm in length, or just put more clearance on the far side.

3rd print is usually a week later, print 2 will usually fail at some point before then, because i left some part undersized, or the wall tuned out to be 0.5mm, so its 2 walls in most places and it warped under the screwforce and no longer fits.

>>3002963
It is entirely dependent on what it is im making. Some stuff is done in one shot with maybe a revision to get perfect tolerances. Sometimes I will create something with a few revisions and come back to it weeks later with a complete redesign. Some of the functional prints I make and sell are extremely creative in how they function for a very simple product. I have competitors sometimes and they just cannot compete unless they rip the design entirely, but I already price everything at the floor and have reviews so the only way they can compete is selling at a loss lol. The chinese are getting close but im about to smack the piss out of them during seasonal warehouse price surges. Eat a loss to cause max pain to the chinese.

first time printing petg
is it dry enough to print out of the box or should i throw it in the dryer first?

>>3003019
Can't hurt to put it in a drier, but it's also probably fine.

>>3003020
yeah i put it in for like 30 minutes and the humidity dropped to 18% pretty quickly so i guess its dry enough

>>3003025
this stuff seems pretty finnicky compared to pla
had to clean my build plate to get the first layer to stick properly

I 3D printed a wet pallette.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4313777

Filled it with water and left it overnight to see if it was waterproof. No leaks, so I added the sponge and parchment paper. Now it leaks.

Printed it again, with more layers & perimeters. Was fine overnight, started leaking the next day when I added the sponge. Printed it again with even more layers & perimeters, at 0.1mm layer height. Same thing. Varnished it, same thing.

I don't understand how adding some sponge causes it to leak when it doesn't leak otherwise.

>>3003059
are you draining and drying it overnight between having water and sponge in it?
maybe it just takes 2 nights for the water to leak.

maybe the sponge is letting water wick onto another surface it otehrwise couldn't touch, and thats dripping down to look like it leaks.

maybe the sponge is heavy enough to push water through the underside.

could be anything.

>>3003059
You could experiment with vapour smoothing, extrusion ratios, and brick layers. Or give up and apply spray lacquer.

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would PETG be strong enough to make a sort of table mount for a flight stick on 8040 aluminium extrusion?
picrel is what i have in mind, the red squares would be where the table attaches with bolts into T nuts

>>3003078
It’s chunky enough it should be fine. But depending on the permanent stress it’s under (probably via the screw-heads), PLA might be a better choice.

>printing a holder
>needs just half a mil more tolerance
>back to cad, change dimensions, export, slice
>accidentally send the old gcode to the printer
>wonder why it still needs the exact same half a mil of clearance

finally getting around to properly calibrating my neptune 4 pro and the previous owner had the accel to deccel set to 20k and the stepper currents were at 1.2 amp
i thought it was normal that the printer was this loud but after changing that it's actually super quiet even while printing at 200mm/s

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>>3003160

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I have a problem, two unrelated problems really.
My bowden tube and print head cables are sagging and contacting the bed and when I look at pictures of this printer, the cables are always standing tall like an erect cock while mine is flaccid and drooping.
What am I doing wrong? Just too long a bowden tube? How short can I make it before it's too short?

My second problem is probably easier, I have a couple of half-clogged nozzles that I can't really clear by drawing filament out of them and poking needles through them.
What would work for cleaning nozzles off the printer?
Stick them on a soldering iron and scour with steel/brass wool?
Could I burn pla/petg off them with a bbq lighter?
How about a heat gun?

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>>3002664
I was in the same situation and decided to wait. Also did a $5 reservation to Infimech MX, maybe will pick it up (I mean 6 color tool changer for $250? Sounds like something really useful for making toys for my nephew and nieces instead of single color prints). So currently waiting to see what Creality and Bambu roll out with tool changers.

>>3002649
But for my secondary printer can someone give any recommendations for a low noise one? Single color mostly, currently split between Kobra X, A1 and Sparkx i7, but also aware of the downsides that go with bedslingers, although never owned one. Are there any CoreXY alternatives that are close to those 3 in low noise modes or are they all vacuum machines when running?

>>3003180
sorry for the namefagging, i forgor to remove it

>>3003173
how do you figure they're half clogged? I'm going almost 2 years with my stock nozzle and maybe i should change it.
Also new nozzles are dirt cheap right?

>>3003183
>how do you figure they're half clogged? I'm going almost 2 years with my stock nozzle and maybe i should change it.
>Also new nozzles are dirt cheap right?
Some of them have poor print quality and the one in there right now is spitting out hairlike string that's much finer than it's intended 0.4mm, it made a kind of spongy print that I can crush in my fingers.

>>3003173
perhaps it's time to consider buying a new nozzle.

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>>3003185
>he gets foam tpu for free
>still complains
seriously though if picrel doesnt clean it, just buying a fresh nozzle might be the way. gonna get one for my K1C and see how it goes too

>>3003187
>>3003186
Is my problem that I'm not treating nozzles like consumables and throwing them away every few months?

Do we really not clean them up and reuse them?

>>3003189
>Do we really not clean them up and reuse them?
yes past a certain age I throw them out, especially if i printed different types of plastic high temp plastics can leave behind a thin layer that clogs the nozzle for lower temp plastic later
>>3003185
>the one in there right now is spitting out hairlike string that's much finer than it's intended 0.4mm
I would try disengaging the extruder motor and try pushing filament through a hot nozzle by hand. if hand fed looks ok then see if the extruder is binding up when it gets hot. my sv08 used to do that i had to sand a hair off the extruder motor shaft because it would start rubbing after a couple hours printing and give me the spongy print problem like you mentioned

>>3003191
>I would try disengaging the extruder motor and try pushing filament through a hot nozzle by hand
Did that, I pulled out the bowden tube and pushed some filament into the hotend by hand, then turned it off and waited a bit and pulled it out, trying to do a cold draw.
It didn't really work but pushing it through by hand got the same result as with the drive engaged so it does seem to be the nozzle.

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>>3003189
I honestly don't know how these retards are still getting clogs in the year of our lord 63. I've yet to change a single tungsten carbide nozzle after thousands of hours of printing abrasives at stupid temperatures.
a .2mm nozzle I could understand, but .4 and .6?

>>3003194
same, I'm on the same starter nozzle of my K1C and have zero issues so far
>>3003189
if they're worn out or aren't cleared out with standard procedures then yeah. I mean even syringe needles need to be changed occasionally when they get dull, you don't resharpen them

>>3003189
wait scratch that. how tf did you get two nozzles clogged in a couple of months? did you use "wood" filament or something?

Why is it so common to print stuff with parts and they come out ever so misaligned, is there a way to mitigate this?

>>3003201
x-y offset. You can make holes a little smaller or a little larger.
This is part of the appeal for Bambu when you're making toys and such. You already have a print profile for that specific piece that's tried and tested.

>>3003193
Did you end up doing a proper cold pull? There’s some nylon nozzle-cleaning filament you can buy. You can burn the plastic out of nozzles with a gas torch, but I’d only do it with a solid brass or maybe stainless nozzle. Hardened steel nozzles will lose their hardness and bimetal nozzles could come apart.

What have you been printing with? Fibre reinforced filament? Glow in the dark or wood filament?

>>3003238
I'm new to this, how do I check for that? I use orca slicer

>>3003255
nta but its in the quality tab under precision
positive number to make stuff a bit bigger, negative number to make it smaller
start with like +/-0.05 and see if that helps

>>3003257
Cool I see em, thanks anon

Hey anons, been out of the game for awhile now. Thinking of upgrading from my Ender 3 Pro to a Bambu's P2S, but I just wanna know how big of a deal is the recent OrcaSlicer drama? Would I be screwing myself if I get the P2S?

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>>3003271
I just got a X2D from an Ender 3. it's hard to express how dogshit the Ender is and how "jus werks" the Bambu is.

I would taken a shotgun to my ender but I gave it to the neighbor kids so they can grow up hating 3d printing.

>>3003199
>did you use "wood" filament or something?
Good guess, I did actually, with the new nozzle anyway.
And that failed mid print with a blockage that I put down to the filament being pretty old (and not dried) PLA polywood. It ended up ejecting the bowden tube and fucking up the coupler which I had to swap out.
This (plus that I was no longer certain the roll had enough filament to finish the print) made me give up on the polywood and switch to PETG, I ran into blockages, cleared them, tried again and this time it came out spongy but seemed to be feeding properly and I figured I'd at least get the part and since it's only an under-desk rubbish bin, I didn't care about the quality that much.
It also ran into a blockage but at least printed half the bin which is fine since it's just a shorter bin now.
I'll post a pic later, the surface is fucking awful but it is technically functional.

>>3003247
>Did you end up doing a proper cold pull?
A couple, one of them worked very well which gave me the confidence that it was going to work this time.

>There’s some nylon nozzle-cleaning filament you can buy.
Never heard of it, can you link some?

>What have you been printing with? Fibre reinforced filament? Glow in the dark or wood filament?
I've been printing PETG almost 24/7 for weeks, switched to polywood for this one thing and it fucked up, so I went back to PETG and it's still somewhat fucked.

I ordered a set of needles since the one that came with the printer is now bent.
I've also ordered a handful of nozzles which feels like a lazy solution but I guess is what we do.
Should get some spare couplers now that I think about it.

>>3003271
>I just wanna know how big of a deal is the recent OrcaSlicer drama?
The open source movement is dead, even Prusa himself is using patents to close off his software.
Like it or not, closed source and walled gardens are where 3d printing is going.

If you want a P2S, get the P2S.

I recently got my first Bambu, its the X2D and all the quality of life stuff is actually pretty great. They are hyped/overhyped for a reason. All the horse shit checks it does before every print really does make shit just work.

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>>3003287
Meanwhile yesterday Creality released the K2.
Again.

>>3003271
What orcaslicer drama?

>>3003287
Open source software and firmware is the only reason we are able to dismiss those new anti ghost-gun laws as being completely infeasible.

Open source hardware doesn’t matter at all. If you need a replacement part and there isn’t a 3D model of it from the manufacturer, it’s perfectly feasible to reverse engineer it. Circuit boards are more opaque, but it’s still feasible to reverse engineer the faulty section, or just replace with a 3rd party circuit board with the same function.

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>>3003300
>what orcaslicer drama
https://forum.bambulab.com/t/orcaslicer-bambulab-legal-threats-from-bambu-lab/251555

TL;DR, Bambu forked prusa's slicer and benefited from it, but they don't like it when someone tries to do the same to get around their proprietary bullshit.

>>3003300
>Circuit boards are more opaque, but it’s still feasible to reverse engineer the faulty section
There must be some service or tool that turns a circuit board into a schematic you can send to a PCB service.

>>3003304
Oh that, I just saw it as Bambu digging their own grave, especially since rossmann started hosting a clone of the orca fork. Has anything happened to that in the last 3 months?

>>3003311
Bet you could use a few purpose-trained neural networks to do that for you these days. It's only getting cheaper to train them.
>opencv to trace and clarify images and identify part numbers
>custom neural net to convert traced and clarified image into a netlist
>llm to interpret datasheets from searching part numbers and output useful information in a standard format
>custom neural net to convert that information into symbols and footprints and spice models
>internal verification of netlist via spice with llm feedback, filling in missing connections based on description and understanding of whole circuit, and understanding of familiar sub-circuit blocks
>custom neural net to convert netlist into schematic for human reference
>custom neural net to combine traced and clarified image with netlist to create kicad pcb layout

You could ditch the whole circuit understanding part, but then you'd remain unsure even in the simplest cases of traces being hidden by components, let alone more than two layers. Unless you go all autistic and desolder everything, and grind down the entire board to see the inner layers.

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>>3003286
This is the result.
I double-checked walls and layer height and it all looks reasonable to me and not wildly divergent to previous prints.

>>3003320
0.4mm nozzle btw

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>>3003300
>we are able to dismiss those new anti ghost-gun laws as being completely infeasible
What makes you think we're past that already?
Bambu and Anycubic dont give root access so you cant install OS firmware on them. So far they allow lan-only mode, but for how long?

Creality allows root but do picrel AND they locked out root on K1C 2025 with nobody managing to pressure them to unlock it.

>>3003320
yikes that really sucks. had my first spaghetti fail ever after 2 years of owning the printer (mostly collecting dust) while printing a 4 hour 10x2cm cylinder with no skirt.

>>3003326
wrong pig but it has something about remote model scanning

>>3003293
What does it do now?

>>3003328
that does sound creepy. Do you have more infos on it? Got a pre 2025 K1C that was rooted, so I hope that I'll be fine.

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Does anyone here have experience with trying to get good translucent PETG walls? I'm getting pretty decent results, but one thing I haven't figured out is why I keep getting what looks like bubbles.
I don't think they're moisture bubbles, since this spool went straight from the vacuum sealed package to the filament dryer and was in there for 8 hours before beginning this print, as well as being actively dried and fed out of the dryer during the print. It also only ever occurs on one wall in the same general area, the other 3 walls are perfect.
I'm printing 0.6mm layer height with a 0.8mm nozzle at 250C on an Ender 5 S1. Speed is set to 15mm/s for perimeters.
I think I've seen something similar to this on my opaque PETG prints too, but it's much more noticable with translucent filament.

>>3003336
are you sure that those are bubbles?
it resembles the randomized seam setting a little bit. But not really random enough. So probably something else.
only in one spot you say?
Maybe there is some sort of airflow or something else that is specific to that one spot.
Did you try to print it in a different orientation? Like the edges not parallel to the edges of the bed but at an 45° angle. Like a diamond.

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>>3003340
>are you sure that those are bubbles?
No, I'm not sure at all actually. That's just what they look the most like.
>it resembles the randomized seam setting a little bit. But not really random enough. So probably something else.
Yeah, I thought it might have been seam related too, but I enforced the seam on a corner explicitly and nothing seam-related appears on that side in PrusaSlicer.
>only in one spot you say? Maybe there is some sort of airflow or something else that is specific to that one spot.
Could make sense, but it isn't always on the same wall. It's always on only one wall, but not always the same one. I feel like it's related to the seam location in some way, so I'll probably try putting the seam on a different corner next and see if it moves.
>Did you try to print it in a different orientation? Like the edges not parallel to the edges of the bed but at an 45° angle. Like a diamond.
No, but this is a good idea worth trying. I'll probably try it after moving the seam, since I have to print like 2 or 3 more of these anyways. Thanks.
They're racks for CDs. The first pic makes them look cloudier than they really are, it doesn't look too bad with something directly behind the wall. Sort of a discount ribbed acrylic effect with tall layer height. I almost wanna try 0.8 layer height with a 1.0 nozzle.
Though in picrel I accidentally forgot to move the seam from the automatic location, so that looks bad. But on this one it had the bubbling/blemishes on one of the top/bottom walls with the guide rails on them instead of the thinner side walls like the first pic I posted, which is why I think the seam location is a factor.

>>3003345
I wonder if you could do a lenticular image with a 3d printer...

>>3003326
So long as there’s one or two major companies making printers with root access and open source firmware, and so long as there’s one or two open source slicers, its enough. Snapmaker’s U1 has root access, so do all Prusas, Neptune 4s and probably other Elegoos, all Sovols, etc. Also despite not providing root access, Creality and Anycubic and FlashForge are also likely in violation of the GPL. Once the legal guns come out, they go both ways.

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>>3003330
incorporates their new "CFS nano" they're pushing into their i7 bed slinger, but onto the old K2 frame with 4 spools attached on one side. Tidy solution since so many companies now offer multiple spool holders on the sides of their printers and with creality you pay extra for their CFS or go bust.
Looks like the upcoming K3 tool changer also uses that module and its retrofitted to the i7 (which launched with a kinda nifty "Refill" double spool holder, and an enclosed CFS lite) ahead of the K3 launch. The thingy also allows to hang 4 spools on the sides of the i7 instead of the top like the Kobra X.
So far I cant say I'm impressed with the K3 renders. It looks like it directly copies the U3, while also using cheaper and simpler nozzles instead of 4 actual tools. Creality will probably charge $800 for it since iirc Snapmaker charges $700?
So the pro version with heating and 5-6 colors will be closer to $1300 to push people into buying the 8 color K3 Plus for $1600.

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>>3003334
found the correct pig (K2 Plus).
all 4 points are very ominous

>>3003370
Wait, so Anycubic doesnt provide root access/bed meshes too? Do you know if their "mainland china" version is also cucked like Bambu's is?
I am trying to select between A1, i7 and KX for my GF to print her crafts supplies and molds with a .2 nozzle as quiet as possible (and learn without worrying to break something complicated or expensive) but my only choice is to order freight forward from China since local sellers charge like $1100 for a U1, 700 for an A1 etc.

>>3003374
>all 4 points are very ominous
You're not fucking whistling dixie there kiddo

>>3003375
Looks like they do provide root access now, they just took a while. Pretty typical for the Chinese. Open source compliance isn’t a legal problem, just a PR problem.

>>3003384
whoa there pal leave some boot for the rest of your friends

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>>3003386
boy, I say boy, you got your chickenhawks confused with your chickens and it ain't pretty.

>>3003387
>>3003386
>>3003384
please saars i am a humble uchpuchmaki man living in a small bazar. what does this all mean?

>>3003388
they report everything you print to the feds

>>3003389
no, i mean leaving some boot for a boy or something. I'm already very paranoid about the photo i posted

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>>3003374

>>3003390
Reference to the concept of bootlicking, that he’s bootlicking so intensely there’s no boot left to go round for everyone else.

>>3003430
you would have to pay me to drive and pick up a free ender3. Buying an ender nowadays is like buying one of those dremel 3d printers. We are well past that stage unless you just like to work on 3d printers. You can probably find a used a1/a1 mini for not much more or maybe even a clone of the a1 series and you would be much better off.

>>3003390
>no, i mean leaving some boot for a boy or something
The anon that posted that failed to understand the reply to your post.
The expression "whistling dixie" means something like "talking nonsense" or exaggerating or day dreaming.

https://youtu.be/o5Ar5QLcrx8?t=40

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dixie_(song)#In_popular_culture
https://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=whistling%20dixie

>>3003430
>is 150 for a used ender3 v2 neo good?
Go on Ebay and you'll find a bunch slightly cheaper than that.
If the one you're looking at is in good condition and maybe has some accessories, it's fine.

>>3003442
>At least with the Ender I can upgrade it pretty far
You won't, you'll just replace it.
It's not expensive enough to bother upgrading, though you're right that there is an ecosystem to do so.

I don't know how much longer that ecosystem will last though, those parts are probably no longer in production and the manufacturers are most likely moving onto supporting newer models.

>>3003444
this, my k1c is barely expensive enough to actually bother printing a hat and upgrading fans on it instead of/before selling

>>3003459
What printer do you want to replace it with?
Got a K1C aswell and so far I am happy with it.

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>>3003444
I'm honestly looking for a first step and something I can upgrade on a meager budget. I'm not in the market for what seems to be the iPhone of 3D printers but at the same time I wont be able to afford a prusa or ratlabs printer for some time. The drive is what's killing me, so I'll let it go for today and if it's around when I'm closer next week I'll spring for it. There's no sense in making two bad purchases.
>>3003287
>The open source movement is dead
according to fucking who? It's bigger than ever from what I've seen

>>3003480
The V2 neo is not the best choice. It’s not direct drive like the earlier enders. And it doesn’t use the normal 2020 extrusions that you can easily slot T-nuts into. But you can still add tie rods.

As for meaningful upgrades:
>proper PEI bed
>dual-Z (probably belted) for consistent gantry alignment across Z-hops
>direct-drive with a pancake stepper for more consistent extrusion and TPU capability
>dual 5015 cooling fans for proper bridging
>nozzle with hardened insert, and hardened gears, for abrasive filaments
>all-metal heat-break for higher temperature printing
>custom Marlin firmware with more features exposed

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>>3003471
How do you deal with it being so noisy and not having a 0.2 nozzle, did you do any mods?
Also for some reason circular holes arent exactly circular to the eye, even though the calibration cross shows that the y axis is shorter by 0.01% iirc.

>What printer do you want to replace it with?
I'm considering gambling on an Infimech MX or MX Pro (if anyone wants to join me, please use this link to support the friendly neighborhood cheese merchant https://infimech.com/products/infimech-mx-series-vip-reservation?sca_ref=12024509.p1ZNqByZZwmQZA not shilling, I'm gambling and still skeptical but they seem to already show off the machines in action on exhibitions around the world)

Originally wanted to get a Creality K3 Pro, a U1 Plus/U2 (if they make a fully enclosed version) or whatever Bambu sharts out. Still might if Infimech do anything sus hinting on not delivering.

Also I heard that the big trio of bed slingers are quiet enough for the living room?
Trying to decide to get an A1/KobraX/i7 for my GF to learn and spam her hobby attributes + print some tabletop minis with a 0.2 nozzle without sitting next to a vacuum cleaner all day.

Basically for me there are finally two main reasons to upgrade:
>Path 1: Multi color through tool changing
>Path 2: Making printing convenient through silent operation
Qidi Plus5 is tempting but

>>3003528
>Qidi Plus5 is tempting but
sorry its 2:22 am an brain sharted out

...is tempting but do I really need to print PPA-CF like engineering materials at home? So far I stayed away from CF and GF filament like its the plague since I dont want to contaminate my printer and breathe in rogue particles for months. I'd rather stick to pla, petg and the occasional abs/asa, maybe neylon but the price really bites

>>3003530
it's nice to have unless you're just make little toy doo-dads for your child's tabletop game.

>>3003528
Wow, that MX Pro is an impressive machine for that price. I'd want to know a few things before buying it though:
>open source firmware allowing root access and third party firmware installation
>nozzles and extruders are capable of printing abrasive materials
>doesn't shit itself printing TPU
It's likely a fair bit cheaper than the K3 Pro, the other tool-changer machine with a heated chamber that's been announced.
But Snapmaker's design philosophy and openness does make me lean towards an upgraded U1. Shame there aren't any U1 sellers locally and shipping is expensive.

>>3003530
Fibre-core filament minimises fibres on the surface. Printer in garage minimises shit in the air, though I don't think fibres in the air are an issue unless you're sanding the shit.

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>>3003552
i usually make trinkets, toys or piggy banks for the kids in our family and our friends, plan to do silicon mold templates for my beautiful wife for her arts and crafts hobby. Other than that I print hangers, vr controller accessories, random parts for home that arent too load bearing, you know.
>>3003553
So far they've been pretty airtight on details and just repeat "please wait for the final specs when we launch this quarter, we are working every day to polish the final design".
But we know that it will have hardened steel nozzle and the pro will have an optional laser attachment>>3003553
>K3 Pro, the other tool-changer machine with a heated chamber that's been announced
when was it announced? cant find any info on it

Yeah I like the U3's openness too, if it was a fully enclosed system with some kind of dry storage doodad I would have already gotten it. Actually almost bought it when I saw the K3 teaser leading me to find the MX Pro

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>>3003554
>>3003553
second pic. no info on TPU or firmware yet, but no root = no buy. The only exception is maybe bambu if I'm drunk enough but just because they do polish their stuff apparently

>>3003554
>hardened steel nozzle
They always neglect to mention the gears.
>when was it announced? cant find any info on it
Must have been hallucinating. I was thinking of the K3 itself, and figured that since it was the successor to the K2 series it would naturally come with a heated chamber. Might be wrong.

>if it was a fully enclosed system with some kind of dry storage doodad I would have already gotten it
That's not the sticking point for me. Ikea tub lid is cheap and effective, and it should be quite feasible to relocate the filament buffers to a custom dry box. There's already a design for a sealed spool-holder that attaches on the side of the printer itself, but it's not perfect.
Instead it's the nozzle ecosystem that's making me apprehensive, and the fact it wasn't designed to run in a heated chamber so it's hard to say how it would last if you add your own chamber heater.

The MX Pro's shallow lid makes me suspicious of the filament path routing, especially for brittle filaments. But I wonder if the laser engraver will allow it to use the laser to mark prints while they're still stuck to the bed? Or char support interfaces?

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>>3003556
apparently I found a Russian website that already has a preorder listing for K3. Some things I gather:
> Its 260*260*260
> Optimized for TPU down to 80A
> Comes with CFS Nano (which proves my theory why they suddenly started pushing it with the i7)
> They call the nozzles "modified quick release unicorn"
> K3 will be fully enclosed (which really doesnt match with picrel)
> Wifi enabled
> You will have to check/clean the nozzle sockets every 50-100 hours of work
> The plate will be IPA friendly
> In the print head there is a knife that cuts the filament before changing the nozzle (why? i thought the whole idea is that you leave it inside?)

>K2 heated chamber
I think K2 didnt have a heated chamber, but K2 Pro and Plus did? Well K3 isnt officially announced yet, at least I cant find it. But the design is revealed in facebook ads of all places.

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>>3003556
>The MX Pro's shallow lid makes me suspicious of the filament path routing, especially for brittle filaments.
Well they're just routing them behind the printer and into the holes above the toolhead array. The idea is for the PTFE tubes to slide in an out. Originally they said it would need 30cm of clearance behind. Recently they started saying just 10cm clearance for tubes and heat dissipation but also raised the MSRP by $500 and are extremely careful not to show that specific part of the printer (creality avoids showing the portion above the nozzle array too btw). Maybe they're cooking up something? I dont know.
But I wonder if the laser engraver will allow it to use the laser to mark prints while they're still stuck to the bed? Or char support interfaces?
I think its a gimmick like with the bambu one and will need a whole separate plate. But Bambu iirc had a special camera for alignment, this one doubt will have that.
In any case printers and lasers dont mix - this will deposit sooth and dust all over your bearings and belts. Sounds like having a really bad time real fast.

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>>3003557
Ukrainians also list preorders for the K3, also listing it as having "0.4 / 0.8 nozzles". But I really want a 0.2 one!
Russian site lists it at 99k rubbles so around $1200

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>>3003528
>How do you deal with it being so noisy
by not being in the same room. Got a room as a dedicated workshop, so noise is not an issue.

>and not having a 0.2 nozzle
so far I did not need that kind of detail. I plan on getting a 0.2 and a 0.6 nozzle though. They are like 6 or 7 bucks on ebay.

>did you do any mods?
- root access because pre 2025 machine (no pic)
- Lid raiser with with hinges and air vents (pic 1)
- new place for the filament sensor (closer to the drag chain, less wasted filament) (pic 4)
- additional insulation for a higher and more stable chaimber temperature (every pic)
- seal between the display and the door (pic 2)
- tool tray and TPU door catch for additional cooling if I want to print with a low chamber temperature (pic 3)
- raised the drag chain and added guiding brackets for the bowden tube that no longer runs inside the chain (pic 4)
- additional bracket for the chamber thermistor (because the location at the back wall leads to inaccurate readings) (pic 5)
- fan cover (so it won't eat failed spaghetti prints) (pic 6)
- replaced the springs that are pushing against the brass bushings of the print head with weaker ones (reduced ringing for me) (no pic)

>Also for some reason circular holes arent exactly circular to the eye
never ran into this problem. I ran input shaping after rooting the printer, maybe that helps?

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>>3003561
sorry for this:
>They are like 6 or 7 bucks on ebay.
they seem to be a little bit more expensive in the US.

>>3003283
>ender 3 is dog shit
Works on my machine ^tm

>>3002649
Got a qidi 4 max
Shit is already got a fucked mcu not even 2 weeks after getting it
Just contacted customer support hoping to get a replacement

>>3003557
>which really doesnt match with picrel
That image is AI slop anyhow. 4 filament paths from the CFS system go into three in the nozzle.
>knife
Maybe it's just for swapping filament with a CFS, and not for tool-changes, and they got their wording wrong? With open firmware that would all be customisable of course. Assuming Creality would give us open firmware.

>but K2 Pro and Plus did
The plus came out first, but yeah it's not exactly a guarantee for the K3.

>>3003560
It's more about the angle. The K1 and K1 max had problems because the PTFE tube coming out of the toolhead had a pretty tight cornering to fit under the lid, it's a main reason behind why people design lid risers (>>3003569). The tube was also always rotating a little in its coupling.
Tube routing like the Centauri Carbon 2 under a tall lid seems a lot more robust.
>I think its a gimmick
Lasers can be really good for marking letters and such on 3D prints, there's a guy on youtube having great success doing that for SMD component spool holders.
>dust
Oh yeah that could be a nightmare on your laser lens.

I wonder if anyone has made custom tools for the U1? Like for dropping in hardware or with strange and different extruders. That's a main advantage of full toolchangers over nozzle-changers.

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Mould for epoxy. Somewhat less than 8100mm^2. Holds an 8P8C socket inside the housing of a Snapmaker Original’s router toolhead (I lost the old one) along with a motor driver PCB. You can see the threaded inserts that will be used to mount it to the toolhead and PCB. With two wires coming out too. Tomorrow I’ll go through the process of coating the inside with mould release wax (blend of vaseline and candle wax), and packing it into the ends of the threaded inserts.

Might need to reprint one part though, I think I need 3 wire holes not 2.

>>3003594
>Oh yeah that could be a nightmare on your laser lens.
And all rails/rods/anything with lubricant or grease on them.
>there's a guy on youtube having great success doing that for SMD component spool holders
saw his vid too, didnt he end up using UV lasers, while the attachments are usually blue/red LED which will deliver subpar results
>>3003569
can you please share which STLs you used for the vent cover and door seal (whats the point of it btw?)
And the tape that you used to insulate the walls? Was looking into getting some car sound dampening rubber to cover them just yesterday

dont clean your build plate with alcohol when its still hot
my lungs hurt

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>>3003636
>can you please share which STLs you used for the vent cover
if you mean the lid riser with the sliding vent covers:
https://www.printables.com/model/890518-creality-k1-k1c-k1se-lid-riser-v2-50mm-height
if you mean the cover for the side fan, I think it was this one:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6607808
>and door seal (whats the point of it btw?)
https://www.printables.com/model/551917-creality-k1-door-cover/files
less openings = less convection = more heat inside
no clue what kind of foamy seal I glued onto the door seal though. It was something I had laying around.
>And the tape that you used to insulate the walls?
some generic 2 sided aluminum foil bubble wrap stuff. Something like pic related. Had more than enough of it because of some unrelated project.

>>3003581
whatever helps you cope anon!

>>3003648
>dont clean your build plate with alcohol when its still hot
>my lungs hurt
But that's the best part!

...it also dries super quickly.

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>>3003649
thanks my guy!
i'm currently trying to build a v3.2 lid of the same author, but the sliding windows in PLA refuse to stick in the far right corner of the build plate, so infuriating. Speaking of - I'm so tired trying to make this thing flat

>>3003671
Take the bed base out of the printer and bend it over your knee, checking it against a straightedge until it’s properly flat.

>>3003684
do I need to put a tiny flag up my ass while doing this and take pictures for better efficiency?

>>3003691
how can you print a tiny ass flag if your bed is not straight

>>3003699
i can order it on temu

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>>3003617
The snapmaker will be revived.

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>>3003720
Mould is poured, epoxy is setting.

>>3003582
Sent me a replacement hot end, hoping that will fix it.
I'm assuming it won't and that they will have to end up sending me a new mainboard.
Their customer service has been suprisingly high quality so far, responding fast & actively helping to diagnose and resolve the issue from the start.

>>3003658
it literally just works. The only "issues" I have ever had have been user error and BOY does it let you do things you should never do to a printer, this thing is built like a tank. Bambu is no saint in anything, they are literally the John Deer of printers, if it ever gives out, for any reason? on any part? Just buy a new one at full price connected to youe nearest zog facility!

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>>3003748
And de-moulded. I was a little hasty and it cracked as I was getting it out of the mould, hadn’t cured fully yet I guess, but I wanted to be able to trim the meniscus before it became too hard. Its glued back together thanks to super glue. It’s a tiny bit lopsided due to the imprecise clamping of the 8P8C socket, and the resin level dropped a bit as it cured, but overall it fits well enough. I’ll leave it to cure overnight before putting any permanent load on it though.

And the three piece mould is fully intact, so I can reuse it if I ever need to.

>>3003765
what happened to your printer m8?
the epoxy color is terrible, should have gone with pink or something more pleasant

>>3003770
My ender 3 (that I used to print the mould) is fine. I'm retrofitting a snapmaker original to use a different motor, which requires a motor driver to reduce the speed, hence this bracket to hold the motor driver in place of the original bracket (which I lost). The snapmaker can be used as a 3D printer, but the non-silent stepper drivers, difficult to access direct extruder, slow lead-screw X and Y axes, and shitty stock firmware makes it pretty bad as a 3D printer. I bought an SKR mini to replace its controller, but that would be a bit of work to wire up and manage for something I don't use. But I figure I might as well try it for PCB milling.

That's meant to be clear epoxy for fibreglassing, it comes out a bit yellow. It's not neon piss coloured in person, the photo white balance looks a bit off. I could have added a layer or two of fibreglass to strengthen the casting, but figured that would just increase the chances of trapped air bubbles.

>>3003772
Interesting, thank you. You're the first person I met who had anything bad to say about the U1, all I heard was just endless praise and I almost got one

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>>3003758
>Bambu is no saint in anything, they are literally the John Deer of printers, if it ever gives out, for any reason? on any part? Just buy a new one at full price connected to youe nearest zog facility!
You're just an angry broke little piss baby lmao

>>3003834
Even then, you don't have to buy Bambu parts, you can get them from Ali Express for cheaper sometimes.

>>3003834
>70usd for a lidar
how much does a cartographer cost? $30?
grim

>>3003840
can you put the cartographer on K1C, Sparkx i7 or Kobra X?

>>3003848
uhhh yeah?
just 3d print a mount??

>>3003849
I meant from a firmware standpoint. I currently have a K1C and trying to decide between A1, KX and i7 for a secondary one - doing research on which one is the quietest one

>>3003851
its compatible with any printer that can run klipper

>>3003778
I never said anything about the U1. This is a Snapmaker Original, AKA Snapmaker 3-in-1. The first product made by Snapmaker.

>>3003840
Isn’t lidar for calibrating line extrusion width and height?

>>3003860
idk
i'd imagine it serves the same purpose as other bed leveling methods

>>3003861
https://wiki.creality.com/en/k1-flagship-series/k1-max/quick-start-guide/ai-feature-description
It does both flow calibration and first layer fault detection with the lidar, as well as using it as a bed level sensor.

>>3003878
yeah i guess it's not really worth replacing then

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>>3003765
Now back together again. But I learnt that my custom micro switch mount for depth sensing of tools was misplaced, so I’ll have to redesign that too. I’ll make this one adjustable.