Snapmaker U1 or X2D, what do you guys think?

Or just wait.

>>3002664
U1

>>3002664
Well are you printing capeshit or functional prints?

>>3002716
I'm wanting a pla/tpu toy printer mostly for making game merch and decorative shit.

I already have a P2S for functional parts, but the lack of heater is sub optimal.

>>3002797
Probably the U1 then. Not sure how well it does with TPU, but for TPU and heated chamber maybe the X2D although the P1S would probably be better for TPU. You have to weigh how much you want to print TPU over multi color.

I've never used a 3D printer but I'm considering buying one, I'm not expecting it to be easy. I would sometimes build custom arcade-style controllers, I could use some small parts and I also see videos online of people printing larger cases for them, that would be very useful if it's viable. Specifically I want a good Virtual-On controller, buying those used seems to cost much more than a 3d printer. I found a project of a guy doing something similar but I would like to use higher quality parts and a different PCB so I'll modify it. https://github.com/Xerxes3rd/Twin-Stick-Controller If it works out I want at least 4 for myself.
Do I just buy a Bambu? What should I pay attention to? Is this a completely shitty idea? I would appreciate help.

>>3002664
Just wait.

>>3002837
>Is this a completely shitty idea?
Just get an inexpensive printer and jump in. To me the biggest challenge in 3D printing is modeling original parts, but if you are only downloading finished models then the rest is easy -- just slice and print. Today's printers don't need as much maintenance and tweaking, but even if you run into problems the learning curve is gradual. A dozen hours of YouTube tutorials will go long way.

>>3002837
Bambu is the easiest one to use. I've been to a few festivals with a few different print sellers and absolutely every last one of them has used bambu. "Oh I haven't had any luck with anything else" or "Oh I've heard terrible things about flash forge!" One or two sellers bitching online would be skill issue, and it IS a skill issue, but it's an understandable skill issue, because sellers are more interested in avoiding it altogether than having total control over the process.

HOW the fuck EVER, Bambu isn't showing any interest in adopting multi-extruder multicolor yet. They have hot end swaps, which take care of the filament waste in multicolor, but not the time. You can get a snap maker u1 if you have more of an interest in this stuff than dragons.

>>3002916
A downside of the U1 is that you are strictly limited to 4 colours.
H2C is way slower, but you can print up to 6 without waste, and potentially like 24 with (a fuck ton of) waste.
They do all feel kinda like stop-gaps right now and nothing seems to fix every issue.

>>3002916
>different print sellers
subhumans.

>>3002925
It gets people out of the house, dude. Every fest I go to with my wife has at least one table set up. Even I've got an entire orphanage with staffers that keep sending my wife home with 20s like a fucking drug patsy to get them new fidgets for themselves, their kids, their kids at home, etc.
We're looking at the advent of something that gets away from just getting all of our cheap plastic shit from China, and I like it. Cuts back on child labor over there. The sensory toys are crazy with self-diagnosing millennials, which is fun because I'm the clinical sperg that sells the fucking things to them.
This must be how the Mexicans running Native American souvenir shops feel.
>>3002920
You're only limited to 4 if you don't play around with the CYMK version of Orca. Sure, it falls apart towards the top surface, but there's still options.
Hell, just having 3 or 4 is more than 99% of the shit anyone feels like printing on a standard multi-color. I groan just having to do two on my ad5x.

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>>3002649
if you are making something how many versions do you make before you are happy? for me its always a bunch like this thing is like v12. I googled and I got results like other people have like 3 or 4 revisions. If that is you, how can you think of everything you want from the beginning?

>>3002963
Until works decently/barely enough to be boring and move onto something else.

>>3002963
Sometimes I get lucky and don't have to make any edits to a few revisions. Sometimes I have to edit my model a shit load of times just to get my ideas in order or account for unforseen design issues. Sometimes I have to remodel just for it to print the way I want. I modeled a centrifuge for 50ml containers, wish has a lot of moving parts. Some parts of my model were good on the first print, but others required more finesse. I don't beat myself up when I've got back to 3d model a part for the Nth time. It's called rapid prototyping for a reason. I also enjoy the modeling process, though. And my printer nozzle is .8 so things print faster and make it less of a headache/time sink. To answer your question regarding knowing everything you want, I suppose it's how complicated your design is and how well you can model it in your head before making it digital. I spend more time modeling it in my head like an autist before it ever gets 3d modeled.

>>3002963
For a print by itself? Maybe 1-4 times. For an entire project? Preferably just 1, I'm often fine compromising with a good enough project. But sometimes I'll come back to modify it, or to remake it entirely.

>>3002963
printed? usually like 3
digital? 30

first print reveals a MAJOR failing to understand scale, or that i've used an inside measurement for an outside reference, or that some geometry is impossible to slide parts past each other in reality.

then i do an afternoon of edits, and print again

print 2 is almost always 'close enough' but has some portion that needs re-refining that i didn't notice on the first print because it was always destined for the bin, like the heatset inserts needing more clearance to avoid blowing out an important wall, or the screws i measured the clearance of for sockethead screws now need to be countersunk, so i can either drop down 2mm in length, or just put more clearance on the far side.

3rd print is usually a week later, print 2 will usually fail at some point before then, because i left some part undersized, or the wall tuned out to be 0.5mm, so its 2 walls in most places and it warped under the screwforce and no longer fits.

>>3002963
It is entirely dependent on what it is im making. Some stuff is done in one shot with maybe a revision to get perfect tolerances. Sometimes I will create something with a few revisions and come back to it weeks later with a complete redesign. Some of the functional prints I make and sell are extremely creative in how they function for a very simple product. I have competitors sometimes and they just cannot compete unless they rip the design entirely, but I already price everything at the floor and have reviews so the only way they can compete is selling at a loss lol. The chinese are getting close but im about to smack the piss out of them during seasonal warehouse price surges. Eat a loss to cause max pain to the chinese.

first time printing petg
is it dry enough to print out of the box or should i throw it in the dryer first?

>>3003019
Can't hurt to put it in a drier, but it's also probably fine.

>>3003020
yeah i put it in for like 30 minutes and the humidity dropped to 18% pretty quickly so i guess its dry enough

>>3003025
this stuff seems pretty finnicky compared to pla
had to clean my build plate to get the first layer to stick properly

I 3D printed a wet pallette.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4313777

Filled it with water and left it overnight to see if it was waterproof. No leaks, so I added the sponge and parchment paper. Now it leaks.

Printed it again, with more layers & perimeters. Was fine overnight, started leaking the next day when I added the sponge. Printed it again with even more layers & perimeters, at 0.1mm layer height. Same thing. Varnished it, same thing.

I don't understand how adding some sponge causes it to leak when it doesn't leak otherwise.

>>3003059
are you draining and drying it overnight between having water and sponge in it?
maybe it just takes 2 nights for the water to leak.

maybe the sponge is letting water wick onto another surface it otehrwise couldn't touch, and thats dripping down to look like it leaks.

maybe the sponge is heavy enough to push water through the underside.

could be anything.

>>3003059
You could experiment with vapour smoothing, extrusion ratios, and brick layers. Or give up and apply spray lacquer.

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would PETG be strong enough to make a sort of table mount for a flight stick on 8040 aluminium extrusion?
picrel is what i have in mind, the red squares would be where the table attaches with bolts into T nuts

>>3003078
It’s chunky enough it should be fine. But depending on the permanent stress it’s under (probably via the screw-heads), PLA might be a better choice.

>printing a holder
>needs just half a mil more tolerance
>back to cad, change dimensions, export, slice
>accidentally send the old gcode to the printer
>wonder why it still needs the exact same half a mil of clearance

finally getting around to properly calibrating my neptune 4 pro and the previous owner had the accel to deccel set to 20k and the stepper currents were at 1.2 amp
i thought it was normal that the printer was this loud but after changing that it's actually super quiet even while printing at 200mm/s

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>>3003160

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I have a problem, two unrelated problems really.
My bowden tube and print head cables are sagging and contacting the bed and when I look at pictures of this printer, the cables are always standing tall like an erect cock while mine is flaccid and drooping.
What am I doing wrong? Just too long a bowden tube? How short can I make it before it's too short?

My second problem is probably easier, I have a couple of half-clogged nozzles that I can't really clear by drawing filament out of them and poking needles through them.
What would work for cleaning nozzles off the printer?
Stick them on a soldering iron and scour with steel/brass wool?
Could I burn pla/petg off them with a bbq lighter?
How about a heat gun?

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>>3002664
I was in the same situation and decided to wait. Also did a $5 reservation to Infimech MX, maybe will pick it up (I mean 6 color tool changer for $250? Sounds like something really useful for making toys for my nephew and nieces instead of single color prints). So currently waiting to see what Creality and Bambu roll out with tool changers.

>>3002649
But for my secondary printer can someone give any recommendations for a low noise one? Single color mostly, currently split between Kobra X, A1 and Sparkx i7, but also aware of the downsides that go with bedslingers, although never owned one. Are there any CoreXY alternatives that are close to those 3 in low noise modes or are they all vacuum machines when running?

>>3003180
sorry for the namefagging, i forgor to remove it

>>3003173
how do you figure they're half clogged? I'm going almost 2 years with my stock nozzle and maybe i should change it.
Also new nozzles are dirt cheap right?

>>3003183
>how do you figure they're half clogged? I'm going almost 2 years with my stock nozzle and maybe i should change it.
>Also new nozzles are dirt cheap right?
Some of them have poor print quality and the one in there right now is spitting out hairlike string that's much finer than it's intended 0.4mm, it made a kind of spongy print that I can crush in my fingers.

>>3003173
perhaps it's time to consider buying a new nozzle.

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>>3003185
>he gets foam tpu for free
>still complains
seriously though if picrel doesnt clean it, just buying a fresh nozzle might be the way. gonna get one for my K1C and see how it goes too

>>3003187
>>3003186
Is my problem that I'm not treating nozzles like consumables and throwing them away every few months?

Do we really not clean them up and reuse them?

>>3003189
>Do we really not clean them up and reuse them?
yes past a certain age I throw them out, especially if i printed different types of plastic high temp plastics can leave behind a thin layer that clogs the nozzle for lower temp plastic later
>>3003185
>the one in there right now is spitting out hairlike string that's much finer than it's intended 0.4mm
I would try disengaging the extruder motor and try pushing filament through a hot nozzle by hand. if hand fed looks ok then see if the extruder is binding up when it gets hot. my sv08 used to do that i had to sand a hair off the extruder motor shaft because it would start rubbing after a couple hours printing and give me the spongy print problem like you mentioned

>>3003191
>I would try disengaging the extruder motor and try pushing filament through a hot nozzle by hand
Did that, I pulled out the bowden tube and pushed some filament into the hotend by hand, then turned it off and waited a bit and pulled it out, trying to do a cold draw.
It didn't really work but pushing it through by hand got the same result as with the drive engaged so it does seem to be the nozzle.

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>>3003189
I honestly don't know how these retards are still getting clogs in the year of our lord 63. I've yet to change a single tungsten carbide nozzle after thousands of hours of printing abrasives at stupid temperatures.
a .2mm nozzle I could understand, but .4 and .6?

>>3003194
same, I'm on the same starter nozzle of my K1C and have zero issues so far
>>3003189
if they're worn out or aren't cleared out with standard procedures then yeah. I mean even syringe needles need to be changed occasionally when they get dull, you don't resharpen them

>>3003189
wait scratch that. how tf did you get two nozzles clogged in a couple of months? did you use "wood" filament or something?

Why is it so common to print stuff with parts and they come out ever so misaligned, is there a way to mitigate this?

>>3003201
x-y offset. You can make holes a little smaller or a little larger.
This is part of the appeal for Bambu when you're making toys and such. You already have a print profile for that specific piece that's tried and tested.

>>3003193
Did you end up doing a proper cold pull? There’s some nylon nozzle-cleaning filament you can buy. You can burn the plastic out of nozzles with a gas torch, but I’d only do it with a solid brass or maybe stainless nozzle. Hardened steel nozzles will lose their hardness and bimetal nozzles could come apart.

What have you been printing with? Fibre reinforced filament? Glow in the dark or wood filament?

>>3003238
I'm new to this, how do I check for that? I use orca slicer

>>3003255
nta but its in the quality tab under precision
positive number to make stuff a bit bigger, negative number to make it smaller
start with like +/-0.05 and see if that helps

>>3003257
Cool I see em, thanks anon

Hey anons, been out of the game for awhile now. Thinking of upgrading from my Ender 3 Pro to a Bambu's P2S, but I just wanna know how big of a deal is the recent OrcaSlicer drama? Would I be screwing myself if I get the P2S?

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>>3003271
I just got a X2D from an Ender 3. it's hard to express how dogshit the Ender is and how "jus werks" the Bambu is.

I would taken a shotgun to my ender but I gave it to the neighbor kids so they can grow up hating 3d printing.

>>3003199
>did you use "wood" filament or something?
Good guess, I did actually, with the new nozzle anyway.
And that failed mid print with a blockage that I put down to the filament being pretty old (and not dried) PLA polywood. It ended up ejecting the bowden tube and fucking up the coupler which I had to swap out.
This (plus that I was no longer certain the roll had enough filament to finish the print) made me give up on the polywood and switch to PETG, I ran into blockages, cleared them, tried again and this time it came out spongy but seemed to be feeding properly and I figured I'd at least get the part and since it's only an under-desk rubbish bin, I didn't care about the quality that much.
It also ran into a blockage but at least printed half the bin which is fine since it's just a shorter bin now.
I'll post a pic later, the surface is fucking awful but it is technically functional.

>>3003247
>Did you end up doing a proper cold pull?
A couple, one of them worked very well which gave me the confidence that it was going to work this time.

>There’s some nylon nozzle-cleaning filament you can buy.
Never heard of it, can you link some?

>What have you been printing with? Fibre reinforced filament? Glow in the dark or wood filament?
I've been printing PETG almost 24/7 for weeks, switched to polywood for this one thing and it fucked up, so I went back to PETG and it's still somewhat fucked.

I ordered a set of needles since the one that came with the printer is now bent.
I've also ordered a handful of nozzles which feels like a lazy solution but I guess is what we do.
Should get some spare couplers now that I think about it.

>>3003271
>I just wanna know how big of a deal is the recent OrcaSlicer drama?
The open source movement is dead, even Prusa himself is using patents to close off his software.
Like it or not, closed source and walled gardens are where 3d printing is going.

If you want a P2S, get the P2S.

I recently got my first Bambu, its the X2D and all the quality of life stuff is actually pretty great. They are hyped/overhyped for a reason. All the horse shit checks it does before every print really does make shit just work.

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>>3003287
Meanwhile yesterday Creality released the K2.
Again.

>>3003271
What orcaslicer drama?

>>3003287
Open source software and firmware is the only reason we are able to dismiss those new anti ghost-gun laws as being completely infeasible.

Open source hardware doesn’t matter at all. If you need a replacement part and there isn’t a 3D model of it from the manufacturer, it’s perfectly feasible to reverse engineer it. Circuit boards are more opaque, but it’s still feasible to reverse engineer the faulty section, or just replace with a 3rd party circuit board with the same function.

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>>3003300
>what orcaslicer drama
https://forum.bambulab.com/t/orcaslicer-bambulab-legal-threats-from-bambu-lab/251555

TL;DR, Bambu forked prusa's slicer and benefited from it, but they don't like it when someone tries to do the same to get around their proprietary bullshit.

>>3003300
>Circuit boards are more opaque, but it’s still feasible to reverse engineer the faulty section
There must be some service or tool that turns a circuit board into a schematic you can send to a PCB service.

>>3003304
Oh that, I just saw it as Bambu digging their own grave, especially since rossmann started hosting a clone of the orca fork. Has anything happened to that in the last 3 months?

>>3003311
Bet you could use a few purpose-trained neural networks to do that for you these days. It's only getting cheaper to train them.
>opencv to trace and clarify images and identify part numbers
>custom neural net to convert traced and clarified image into a netlist
>llm to interpret datasheets from searching part numbers and output useful information in a standard format
>custom neural net to convert that information into symbols and footprints and spice models
>internal verification of netlist via spice with llm feedback, filling in missing connections based on description and understanding of whole circuit, and understanding of familiar sub-circuit blocks
>custom neural net to convert netlist into schematic for human reference
>custom neural net to combine traced and clarified image with netlist to create kicad pcb layout

You could ditch the whole circuit understanding part, but then you'd remain unsure even in the simplest cases of traces being hidden by components, let alone more than two layers. Unless you go all autistic and desolder everything, and grind down the entire board to see the inner layers.

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>>3003286
This is the result.
I double-checked walls and layer height and it all looks reasonable to me and not wildly divergent to previous prints.

>>3003320
0.4mm nozzle btw

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>>3003300
>we are able to dismiss those new anti ghost-gun laws as being completely infeasible
What makes you think we're past that already?
Bambu and Anycubic dont give root access so you cant install OS firmware on them. So far they allow lan-only mode, but for how long?

Creality allows root but do picrel AND they locked out root on K1C 2025 with nobody managing to pressure them to unlock it.

>>3003320
yikes that really sucks. had my first spaghetti fail ever after 2 years of owning the printer (mostly collecting dust) while printing a 4 hour 10x2cm cylinder with no skirt.

>>3003326
wrong pig but it has something about remote model scanning

>>3003293
What does it do now?

>>3003328
that does sound creepy. Do you have more infos on it? Got a pre 2025 K1C that was rooted, so I hope that I'll be fine.

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Does anyone here have experience with trying to get good translucent PETG walls? I'm getting pretty decent results, but one thing I haven't figured out is why I keep getting what looks like bubbles.
I don't think they're moisture bubbles, since this spool went straight from the vacuum sealed package to the filament dryer and was in there for 8 hours before beginning this print, as well as being actively dried and fed out of the dryer during the print. It also only ever occurs on one wall in the same general area, the other 3 walls are perfect.
I'm printing 0.6mm layer height with a 0.8mm nozzle at 250C on an Ender 5 S1. Speed is set to 15mm/s for perimeters.
I think I've seen something similar to this on my opaque PETG prints too, but it's much more noticable with translucent filament.

>>3003336
are you sure that those are bubbles?
it resembles the randomized seam setting a little bit. But not really random enough. So probably something else.
only in one spot you say?
Maybe there is some sort of airflow or something else that is specific to that one spot.
Did you try to print it in a different orientation? Like the edges not parallel to the edges of the bed but at an 45° angle. Like a diamond.

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>>3003340
>are you sure that those are bubbles?
No, I'm not sure at all actually. That's just what they look the most like.
>it resembles the randomized seam setting a little bit. But not really random enough. So probably something else.
Yeah, I thought it might have been seam related too, but I enforced the seam on a corner explicitly and nothing seam-related appears on that side in PrusaSlicer.
>only in one spot you say? Maybe there is some sort of airflow or something else that is specific to that one spot.
Could make sense, but it isn't always on the same wall. It's always on only one wall, but not always the same one. I feel like it's related to the seam location in some way, so I'll probably try putting the seam on a different corner next and see if it moves.
>Did you try to print it in a different orientation? Like the edges not parallel to the edges of the bed but at an 45° angle. Like a diamond.
No, but this is a good idea worth trying. I'll probably try it after moving the seam, since I have to print like 2 or 3 more of these anyways. Thanks.
They're racks for CDs. The first pic makes them look cloudier than they really are, it doesn't look too bad with something directly behind the wall. Sort of a discount ribbed acrylic effect with tall layer height. I almost wanna try 0.8 layer height with a 1.0 nozzle.
Though in picrel I accidentally forgot to move the seam from the automatic location, so that looks bad. But on this one it had the bubbling/blemishes on one of the top/bottom walls with the guide rails on them instead of the thinner side walls like the first pic I posted, which is why I think the seam location is a factor.

>>3003345
I wonder if you could do a lenticular image with a 3d printer...

>>3003326
So long as there’s one or two major companies making printers with root access and open source firmware, and so long as there’s one or two open source slicers, its enough. Snapmaker’s U1 has root access, so do all Prusas, Neptune 4s and probably other Elegoos, all Sovols, etc. Also despite not providing root access, Creality and Anycubic and FlashForge are also likely in violation of the GPL. Once the legal guns come out, they go both ways.

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>>3003330
incorporates their new "CFS nano" they're pushing into their i7 bed slinger, but onto the old K2 frame with 4 spools attached on one side. Tidy solution since so many companies now offer multiple spool holders on the sides of their printers and with creality you pay extra for their CFS or go bust.
Looks like the upcoming K3 tool changer also uses that module and its retrofitted to the i7 (which launched with a kinda nifty "Refill" double spool holder, and an enclosed CFS lite) ahead of the K3 launch. The thingy also allows to hang 4 spools on the sides of the i7 instead of the top like the Kobra X.
So far I cant say I'm impressed with the K3 renders. It looks like it directly copies the U3, while also using cheaper and simpler nozzles instead of 4 actual tools. Creality will probably charge $800 for it since iirc Snapmaker charges $700?
So the pro version with heating and 5-6 colors will be closer to $1300 to push people into buying the 8 color K3 Plus for $1600.

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>>3003334
found the correct pig (K2 Plus).
all 4 points are very ominous

>>3003370
Wait, so Anycubic doesnt provide root access/bed meshes too? Do you know if their "mainland china" version is also cucked like Bambu's is?
I am trying to select between A1, i7 and KX for my GF to print her crafts supplies and molds with a .2 nozzle as quiet as possible (and learn without worrying to break something complicated or expensive) but my only choice is to order freight forward from China since local sellers charge like $1100 for a U1, 700 for an A1 etc.

>>3003374
>all 4 points are very ominous
You're not fucking whistling dixie there kiddo

>>3003375
Looks like they do provide root access now, they just took a while. Pretty typical for the Chinese. Open source compliance isn’t a legal problem, just a PR problem.

>>3003384
whoa there pal leave some boot for the rest of your friends

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>>3003386
boy, I say boy, you got your chickenhawks confused with your chickens and it ain't pretty.

>>3003387
>>3003386
>>3003384
please saars i am a humble uchpuchmaki man living in a small bazar. what does this all mean?

>>3003388
they report everything you print to the feds

>>3003389
no, i mean leaving some boot for a boy or something. I'm already very paranoid about the photo i posted

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>>3003374

>>3003390
Reference to the concept of bootlicking, that he’s bootlicking so intensely there’s no boot left to go round for everyone else.

>>3003430
you would have to pay me to drive and pick up a free ender3. Buying an ender nowadays is like buying one of those dremel 3d printers. We are well past that stage unless you just like to work on 3d printers. You can probably find a used a1/a1 mini for not much more or maybe even a clone of the a1 series and you would be much better off.

>>3003390
>no, i mean leaving some boot for a boy or something
The anon that posted that failed to understand the reply to your post.
The expression "whistling dixie" means something like "talking nonsense" or exaggerating or day dreaming.

https://youtu.be/o5Ar5QLcrx8?t=40

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dixie_(song)#In_popular_culture
https://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=whistling%20dixie

>>3003430
>is 150 for a used ender3 v2 neo good?
Go on Ebay and you'll find a bunch slightly cheaper than that.
If the one you're looking at is in good condition and maybe has some accessories, it's fine.

>>3003442
>At least with the Ender I can upgrade it pretty far
You won't, you'll just replace it.
It's not expensive enough to bother upgrading, though you're right that there is an ecosystem to do so.

I don't know how much longer that ecosystem will last though, those parts are probably no longer in production and the manufacturers are most likely moving onto supporting newer models.

>>3003444
this, my k1c is barely expensive enough to actually bother printing a hat and upgrading fans on it instead of/before selling

>>3003459
What printer do you want to replace it with?
Got a K1C aswell and so far I am happy with it.

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>>3003444
I'm honestly looking for a first step and something I can upgrade on a meager budget. I'm not in the market for what seems to be the iPhone of 3D printers but at the same time I wont be able to afford a prusa or ratlabs printer for some time. The drive is what's killing me, so I'll let it go for today and if it's around when I'm closer next week I'll spring for it. There's no sense in making two bad purchases.
>>3003287
>The open source movement is dead
according to fucking who? It's bigger than ever from what I've seen

>>3003480
The V2 neo is not the best choice. It’s not direct drive like the earlier enders. And it doesn’t use the normal 2020 extrusions that you can easily slot T-nuts into. But you can still add tie rods.

As for meaningful upgrades:
>proper PEI bed
>dual-Z (probably belted) for consistent gantry alignment across Z-hops
>direct-drive with a pancake stepper for more consistent extrusion and TPU capability
>dual 5015 cooling fans for proper bridging
>nozzle with hardened insert, and hardened gears, for abrasive filaments
>all-metal heat-break for higher temperature printing
>custom Marlin firmware with more features exposed

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>>3003471
How do you deal with it being so noisy and not having a 0.2 nozzle, did you do any mods?
Also for some reason circular holes arent exactly circular to the eye, even though the calibration cross shows that the y axis is shorter by 0.01% iirc.

>What printer do you want to replace it with?
I'm considering gambling on an Infimech MX or MX Pro (if anyone wants to join me, please use this link to support the friendly neighborhood cheese merchant https://infimech.com/products/infimech-mx-series-vip-reservation?sca_ref=12024509.p1ZNqByZZwmQZA not shilling, I'm gambling and still skeptical but they seem to already show off the machines in action on exhibitions around the world)

Originally wanted to get a Creality K3 Pro, a U1 Plus/U2 (if they make a fully enclosed version) or whatever Bambu sharts out. Still might if Infimech do anything sus hinting on not delivering.

Also I heard that the big trio of bed slingers are quiet enough for the living room?
Trying to decide to get an A1/KobraX/i7 for my GF to learn and spam her hobby attributes + print some tabletop minis with a 0.2 nozzle without sitting next to a vacuum cleaner all day.

Basically for me there are finally two main reasons to upgrade:
>Path 1: Multi color through tool changing
>Path 2: Making printing convenient through silent operation
Qidi Plus5 is tempting but

>>3003528
>Qidi Plus5 is tempting but
sorry its 2:22 am an brain sharted out

...is tempting but do I really need to print PPA-CF like engineering materials at home? So far I stayed away from CF and GF filament like its the plague since I dont want to contaminate my printer and breathe in rogue particles for months. I'd rather stick to pla, petg and the occasional abs/asa, maybe neylon but the price really bites

>>3003530
it's nice to have unless you're just make little toy doo-dads for your child's tabletop game.

>>3003528
Wow, that MX Pro is an impressive machine for that price. I'd want to know a few things before buying it though:
>open source firmware allowing root access and third party firmware installation
>nozzles and extruders are capable of printing abrasive materials
>doesn't shit itself printing TPU
It's likely a fair bit cheaper than the K3 Pro, the other tool-changer machine with a heated chamber that's been announced.
But Snapmaker's design philosophy and openness does make me lean towards an upgraded U1. Shame there aren't any U1 sellers locally and shipping is expensive.

>>3003530
Fibre-core filament minimises fibres on the surface. Printer in garage minimises shit in the air, though I don't think fibres in the air are an issue unless you're sanding the shit.

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>>3003552
i usually make trinkets, toys or piggy banks for the kids in our family and our friends, plan to do silicon mold templates for my beautiful wife for her arts and crafts hobby. Other than that I print hangers, vr controller accessories, random parts for home that arent too load bearing, you know.
>>3003553
So far they've been pretty airtight on details and just repeat "please wait for the final specs when we launch this quarter, we are working every day to polish the final design".
But we know that it will have hardened steel nozzle and the pro will have an optional laser attachment>>3003553
>K3 Pro, the other tool-changer machine with a heated chamber that's been announced
when was it announced? cant find any info on it

Yeah I like the U3's openness too, if it was a fully enclosed system with some kind of dry storage doodad I would have already gotten it. Actually almost bought it when I saw the K3 teaser leading me to find the MX Pro

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>>3003554
>>3003553
second pic. no info on TPU or firmware yet, but no root = no buy. The only exception is maybe bambu if I'm drunk enough but just because they do polish their stuff apparently

>>3003554
>hardened steel nozzle
They always neglect to mention the gears.
>when was it announced? cant find any info on it
Must have been hallucinating. I was thinking of the K3 itself, and figured that since it was the successor to the K2 series it would naturally come with a heated chamber. Might be wrong.

>if it was a fully enclosed system with some kind of dry storage doodad I would have already gotten it
That's not the sticking point for me. Ikea tub lid is cheap and effective, and it should be quite feasible to relocate the filament buffers to a custom dry box. There's already a design for a sealed spool-holder that attaches on the side of the printer itself, but it's not perfect.
Instead it's the nozzle ecosystem that's making me apprehensive, and the fact it wasn't designed to run in a heated chamber so it's hard to say how it would last if you add your own chamber heater.

The MX Pro's shallow lid makes me suspicious of the filament path routing, especially for brittle filaments. But I wonder if the laser engraver will allow it to use the laser to mark prints while they're still stuck to the bed? Or char support interfaces?

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>>3003556
apparently I found a Russian website that already has a preorder listing for K3. Some things I gather:
> Its 260*260*260
> Optimized for TPU down to 80A
> Comes with CFS Nano (which proves my theory why they suddenly started pushing it with the i7)
> They call the nozzles "modified quick release unicorn"
> K3 will be fully enclosed (which really doesnt match with picrel)
> Wifi enabled
> You will have to check/clean the nozzle sockets every 50-100 hours of work
> The plate will be IPA friendly
> In the print head there is a knife that cuts the filament before changing the nozzle (why? i thought the whole idea is that you leave it inside?)

>K2 heated chamber
I think K2 didnt have a heated chamber, but K2 Pro and Plus did? Well K3 isnt officially announced yet, at least I cant find it. But the design is revealed in facebook ads of all places.

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>>3003556
>The MX Pro's shallow lid makes me suspicious of the filament path routing, especially for brittle filaments.
Well they're just routing them behind the printer and into the holes above the toolhead array. The idea is for the PTFE tubes to slide in an out. Originally they said it would need 30cm of clearance behind. Recently they started saying just 10cm clearance for tubes and heat dissipation but also raised the MSRP by $500 and are extremely careful not to show that specific part of the printer (creality avoids showing the portion above the nozzle array too btw). Maybe they're cooking up something? I dont know.
But I wonder if the laser engraver will allow it to use the laser to mark prints while they're still stuck to the bed? Or char support interfaces?
I think its a gimmick like with the bambu one and will need a whole separate plate. But Bambu iirc had a special camera for alignment, this one doubt will have that.
In any case printers and lasers dont mix - this will deposit sooth and dust all over your bearings and belts. Sounds like having a really bad time real fast.

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>>3003557
Ukrainians also list preorders for the K3, also listing it as having "0.4 / 0.8 nozzles". But I really want a 0.2 one!
Russian site lists it at 99k rubbles so around $1200

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>>3003528
>How do you deal with it being so noisy
by not being in the same room. Got a room as a dedicated workshop, so noise is not an issue.

>and not having a 0.2 nozzle
so far I did not need that kind of detail. I plan on getting a 0.2 and a 0.6 nozzle though. They are like 6 or 7 bucks on ebay.

>did you do any mods?
- root access because pre 2025 machine (no pic)
- Lid raiser with with hinges and air vents (pic 1)
- new place for the filament sensor (closer to the drag chain, less wasted filament) (pic 4)
- additional insulation for a higher and more stable chaimber temperature (every pic)
- seal between the display and the door (pic 2)
- tool tray and TPU door catch for additional cooling if I want to print with a low chamber temperature (pic 3)
- raised the drag chain and added guiding brackets for the bowden tube that no longer runs inside the chain (pic 4)
- additional bracket for the chamber thermistor (because the location at the back wall leads to inaccurate readings) (pic 5)
- fan cover (so it won't eat failed spaghetti prints) (pic 6)
- replaced the springs that are pushing against the brass bushings of the print head with weaker ones (reduced ringing for me) (no pic)

>Also for some reason circular holes arent exactly circular to the eye
never ran into this problem. I ran input shaping after rooting the printer, maybe that helps?

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>>3003561
sorry for this:
>They are like 6 or 7 bucks on ebay.
they seem to be a little bit more expensive in the US.

>>3003283
>ender 3 is dog shit
Works on my machine ^tm

>>3002649
Got a qidi 4 max
Shit is already got a fucked mcu not even 2 weeks after getting it
Just contacted customer support hoping to get a replacement

>>3003557
>which really doesnt match with picrel
That image is AI slop anyhow. 4 filament paths from the CFS system go into three in the nozzle.
>knife
Maybe it's just for swapping filament with a CFS, and not for tool-changes, and they got their wording wrong? With open firmware that would all be customisable of course. Assuming Creality would give us open firmware.

>but K2 Pro and Plus did
The plus came out first, but yeah it's not exactly a guarantee for the K3.

>>3003560
It's more about the angle. The K1 and K1 max had problems because the PTFE tube coming out of the toolhead had a pretty tight cornering to fit under the lid, it's a main reason behind why people design lid risers (>>3003569). The tube was also always rotating a little in its coupling.
Tube routing like the Centauri Carbon 2 under a tall lid seems a lot more robust.
>I think its a gimmick
Lasers can be really good for marking letters and such on 3D prints, there's a guy on youtube having great success doing that for SMD component spool holders.
>dust
Oh yeah that could be a nightmare on your laser lens.

I wonder if anyone has made custom tools for the U1? Like for dropping in hardware or with strange and different extruders. That's a main advantage of full toolchangers over nozzle-changers.

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Mould for epoxy. Somewhat less than 8100mm^2. Holds an 8P8C socket inside the housing of a Snapmaker Original’s router toolhead (I lost the old one) along with a motor driver PCB. You can see the threaded inserts that will be used to mount it to the toolhead and PCB. With two wires coming out too. Tomorrow I’ll go through the process of coating the inside with mould release wax (blend of vaseline and candle wax), and packing it into the ends of the threaded inserts.

Might need to reprint one part though, I think I need 3 wire holes not 2.

>>3003594
>Oh yeah that could be a nightmare on your laser lens.
And all rails/rods/anything with lubricant or grease on them.
>there's a guy on youtube having great success doing that for SMD component spool holders
saw his vid too, didnt he end up using UV lasers, while the attachments are usually blue/red LED which will deliver subpar results
>>3003569
can you please share which STLs you used for the vent cover and door seal (whats the point of it btw?)
And the tape that you used to insulate the walls? Was looking into getting some car sound dampening rubber to cover them just yesterday

dont clean your build plate with alcohol when its still hot
my lungs hurt

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>>3003636
>can you please share which STLs you used for the vent cover
if you mean the lid riser with the sliding vent covers:
https://www.printables.com/model/890518-creality-k1-k1c-k1se-lid-riser-v2-50mm-height
if you mean the cover for the side fan, I think it was this one:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6607808
>and door seal (whats the point of it btw?)
https://www.printables.com/model/551917-creality-k1-door-cover/files
less openings = less convection = more heat inside
no clue what kind of foamy seal I glued onto the door seal though. It was something I had laying around.
>And the tape that you used to insulate the walls?
some generic 2 sided aluminum foil bubble wrap stuff. Something like pic related. Had more than enough of it because of some unrelated project.

>>3003581
whatever helps you cope anon!

>>3003648
>dont clean your build plate with alcohol when its still hot
>my lungs hurt
But that's the best part!

...it also dries super quickly.

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>>3003649
thanks my guy!
i'm currently trying to build a v3.2 lid of the same author, but the sliding windows in PLA refuse to stick in the far right corner of the build plate, so infuriating. Speaking of - I'm so tired trying to make this thing flat

>>3003671
Take the bed base out of the printer and bend it over your knee, checking it against a straightedge until it’s properly flat.

>>3003684
do I need to put a tiny flag up my ass while doing this and take pictures for better efficiency?

>>3003691
how can you print a tiny ass flag if your bed is not straight

>>3003699
i can order it on temu

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>>3003617
The snapmaker will be revived.

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>>3003720
Mould is poured, epoxy is setting.

>>3003582
Sent me a replacement hot end, hoping that will fix it.
I'm assuming it won't and that they will have to end up sending me a new mainboard.
Their customer service has been suprisingly high quality so far, responding fast & actively helping to diagnose and resolve the issue from the start.

>>3003658
it literally just works. The only "issues" I have ever had have been user error and BOY does it let you do things you should never do to a printer, this thing is built like a tank. Bambu is no saint in anything, they are literally the John Deer of printers, if it ever gives out, for any reason? on any part? Just buy a new one at full price connected to youe nearest zog facility!

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>>3003748
And de-moulded. I was a little hasty and it cracked as I was getting it out of the mould, hadn’t cured fully yet I guess, but I wanted to be able to trim the meniscus before it became too hard. Its glued back together thanks to super glue. It’s a tiny bit lopsided due to the imprecise clamping of the 8P8C socket, and the resin level dropped a bit as it cured, but overall it fits well enough. I’ll leave it to cure overnight before putting any permanent load on it though.

And the three piece mould is fully intact, so I can reuse it if I ever need to.

>>3003765
what happened to your printer m8?
the epoxy color is terrible, should have gone with pink or something more pleasant

>>3003770
My ender 3 (that I used to print the mould) is fine. I'm retrofitting a snapmaker original to use a different motor, which requires a motor driver to reduce the speed, hence this bracket to hold the motor driver in place of the original bracket (which I lost). The snapmaker can be used as a 3D printer, but the non-silent stepper drivers, difficult to access direct extruder, slow lead-screw X and Y axes, and shitty stock firmware makes it pretty bad as a 3D printer. I bought an SKR mini to replace its controller, but that would be a bit of work to wire up and manage for something I don't use. But I figure I might as well try it for PCB milling.

That's meant to be clear epoxy for fibreglassing, it comes out a bit yellow. It's not neon piss coloured in person, the photo white balance looks a bit off. I could have added a layer or two of fibreglass to strengthen the casting, but figured that would just increase the chances of trapped air bubbles.

>>3003772
Interesting, thank you. You're the first person I met who had anything bad to say about the U1, all I heard was just endless praise and I almost got one

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>>3003758
>Bambu is no saint in anything, they are literally the John Deer of printers, if it ever gives out, for any reason? on any part? Just buy a new one at full price connected to youe nearest zog facility!
You're just an angry broke little piss baby lmao

>>3003834
Even then, you don't have to buy Bambu parts, you can get them from Ali Express for cheaper sometimes.

>>3003834
>70usd for a lidar
how much does a cartographer cost? $30?
grim

>>3003840
can you put the cartographer on K1C, Sparkx i7 or Kobra X?

>>3003848
uhhh yeah?
just 3d print a mount??

>>3003849
I meant from a firmware standpoint. I currently have a K1C and trying to decide between A1, KX and i7 for a secondary one - doing research on which one is the quietest one

>>3003851
its compatible with any printer that can run klipper

>>3003778
I never said anything about the U1. This is a Snapmaker Original, AKA Snapmaker 3-in-1. The first product made by Snapmaker.

>>3003840
Isn’t lidar for calibrating line extrusion width and height?

>>3003860
idk
i'd imagine it serves the same purpose as other bed leveling methods

>>3003861
https://wiki.creality.com/en/k1-flagship-series/k1-max/quick-start-guide/ai-feature-description
It does both flow calibration and first layer fault detection with the lidar, as well as using it as a bed level sensor.

>>3003878
yeah i guess it's not really worth replacing then

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>>3003765
Now back together again. But I learnt that my custom micro switch mount for depth sensing of tools was misplaced, so I’ll have to redesign that too. I’ll make this one adjustable.

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>>3003899
Oh damn, with the 1k ID resistor I’d put in, while it successfully identifies the toolhead as a router or laser, it doesn’t send it PWM signal. Now it’s embedded in epoxy. Looks like the laser module uses 130 ohms. Guess I’m going to try keyhole surgery tomorrow. With a drill press.

>>3003938
If that fails I could cast it again. The mould is thankfully still intact. I could mix in a pigment too, to make it look less piss coloured.

>>3003899
>>3003938
you should turn it into a vinyl cutter

>>3002649
Hey guys, new to the hobby here.
I have my eyes on a sovol SV06 plus ace. I like that it's open source and I don't mind fiddling a bit if necessary.
My only doubt is whether or not it will be able to print ASA. It's not listed in the "supported filaments" but I know people make homemade enclosures and make it work. Anyone has any experience printing ASA on these? Should I just pivot to an enclosed printer like a centauri carbon? It's smaller, more expensive and has a less open ecosystem, but at least ASA is officially supported.

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Forbidden technique:「FORESKIN RESTORATION」

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>>3003986
i dont see why you shouldnt be able to print ASA
you can even print nylon with that if you get an enclosure

>>3003959
Yeah it would probably be pretty easy to buy a vinyl cutting tip and 3D print a rigid enough holder. But the work area is pretty small, and I could also just use the laser to cut vinyl if I really wanted.

The motorised spindle tool has a bit of runout and I’m looking into replacing it with something more concentric, and with an ER8 or ER11 collet. This grub screw is rounding over my hex key each time I use it.

>>3003986
ABS and ASA are very similar to one another, if a machine can print one it can print the other. That said, both are warp-prone and I would expect you’d only have luck with very small, flat, or otherwise low-stress components without a warm enclosure/tent.

>>3003993
Ooh, is that silicone moulding? Show us more details of that mould, I can’t see where the silicone was poured in.

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>>3003994
>>3004033
ABS isn't listed on the official page either, but then again neither are 0.2mm nozzles yet they sell them as compatible

>>3004035
Well TPU, PLA, and PETG (idk about PVA) are the main plastics you can easily print without an enclosure. The hot end can get more than hot enough for ABS/ASA and the bed can get up to 100C, it will print as well as any other bedslinger with that kind of spec. Take a look at some YouTube videos of people printing ABS/ASA with a bedslinger open to the air.

>>3003986
i print asa on my bambu a1. I use a "cool smooth plate" but set way high, nozzle at 275 and bed at 100. you will think im bullshitting but i use wd40 inbetween asa prints so they release better. for me i do need to make an enclosure but only for the filtering the fumes.

>>3004054
I've heard ASA can warp less than ABS, but I've also heard anecdotes suggesting the opposite. I suspect it's brand dependant. What ASA are you printing with? My coworker had warping issues with Elegoo ASA in a Centauri Carbon, though it was a very narrow tall print.

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>>3004033
>Show us more details of that mould
Of course!
Here's a few views of the CAD model that show you the internal structure.
I maybe should have made the sprue/runner larger for the highest point to allow air to exit on its own because the silicone was too thick for that to happen naturally, but I didn't want the trim-away spot to be bigger than it was. As it was, I just let the pour settle for ~20 minutes and injected more silicone through the hole for the lower sprue to force the air out.
You can also see the holes I included for four M5 screws to hold the whole thing together during curing, which resulted in only a very thin flashing layer which broke off easily. There's another M5 hole in the top which I used to push the two halves apart for demolding.

>>3003834
>bragging about paying more for upgrades and repairs
gee bill I can fix my toaster with a paper clip and it still works, almost like it was the user that needed replacing

>>3004071
>moving goal posts
I accept your concession

>>3003993
why is it so bumpy onii-chan

>>3004077
random seam position so that the seam ridge wouldn't interfere with the mold halves lining up

>>3004080
bruh your seam blobs are like watermelon seeds why the fuck are they so fucking big? you'd think you'd dial that shit in so you don't have a hundred voids in your mold. god damn.

>>3004138
I don't waste time dialing things in unless I buy like 10 spools of the same brand of filament, or I need a part to actually look good. If anything, the surface variation increases grip, which is also why I did the print on variable layer height instead of all 0.08

>>3003993
I'm curious, what this is actually for.

>>3004163
I think anon was pretty explicit about what it's for.

>>3004168
by what mechanism?

>>3004172
nta but a false silicon foreskin is supposed to restore moisture to the penis head and while it cannot restore the nerves of the foreskin or the function (as stretching does the latter) it is supposed to help with your mutilated jew'd up cock.

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>>3004172

>>3004172
You can google it, if you must.
I haven't the heart to lead you down that rabbit hole.

>>3004172
>>3004176
It's for passively stretching to restore foreskin function. If you look at the cutaway, you can see that the sleeve bulges inward around the top and bottom to grab the skin at either end while not contacting as much in between.
I was making reasonable progress yoinking that shit by hand a few times a day but you get faster results from consistent longer-term tension.

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>>3004176

i really dont mind being cut

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>>3004192
you don't know any better. hopefully you won't let your sons, nephews or even acquaintances friends get mutilated because you don't know any better. Here's a print the tip of which was also unintentionally fucked up, but at least this one got glow in the dark as a replacement.

>>3004192
You are ignorant of what you lack

>>3002649
hi guys
I just got a used prusa i3 from someone, and it seems to mostly work, but I'm getting a "MINTEMP BED FIXED" error any time I try to preheat or start a print. I looked up the error and it seems like it could be a number of things but most people say it was fixed by just replacing the thermistor.

I figured I would ask here anyway, does that sound about right? I could definitely troubleshoot this more but I would rather just replace a part and call it a day if that's really what's causing the issue.

>>3004192
>>3004198
>>3004203
i can pinch the tip and piss into my foreskin balloon, then lightly unpinch one side and squeeze lightly to pressure wash the bowl.

it makes every pee time fun

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Needed a way to store this cheap tap & die set that came in a shitty blister pack so I threw this together. Probably coulda gotten the printer settings a bit better but everything fit perfectly first try, so I'm happy with it.

>>3004227
Is it going to slot into a drawer or toolbox? Did you use TPU so they fit with a controllable amount of friction?

>>3004066
what kind of silicone did you use?

>>3004221
Seems entirely plausible. Find where the bed thermistor is connected on the mainboard and measure across its terminals for resistance if you have a multimeter. While the machine is turned off. I believe it should be in the ballpark of 10kohms, if it's faulty it should measure really high or maybe really low. It could be that the thermistor wires are poorly plugged, crimped, or screwed down, or have corrosion or oxidisation between them, so definitely test it after removing it. Or that the wires between the plug and the thermistor sensor itself are damaged, for which I'd be examining the cables. But more likely the thermistor itself is dead. It could maybe also be something like a thermal runaway protection sensing, in which case the bed heating element may be damaged or improperly connected.

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>>3004227
Did something similar. Toolboxes and holders were some of my first projects too. Good for getting to know your printer and how to work with CAD.

>>3003838
I bought a A1 build plate from aliexpress and it's definitely thinner than the official one but it was like half the price and has works perfectly fine.

>which printer should I buy
i need a bed that can print a piece thats W 215 × D 320 × H 250 mm
I'm budgeting around 1000$

>>3004239
Print out of what material, or with what material properties? Does speed matter? Does it need to be multi-colour, or even multi-material? Is there any reason preventing you from connecting two prints together?

Could be anything from a Neptune 4 Max to a K2 Plus Combo.

>>3004242
its for printing in place, mainly printing speaker cabinets as my first project and then down the line probably playing around with other stuff

its possible to split it but I'd prefer to print it as one piece

>>3004243
in pla* stupid autocorrect

>>3004178
I'm not cut, why would I be cut when I'm not jewish?
>>3004184
>>3004176
Thanks. that's horrid but if it helps then cool.

I've got a piece with an 18mm hole in it that needs to accept a short fitting that's 18mm in diameter in a way that I can quickly attach and detach it without it coming apart without me wanting it to. What's a good way to design this?

>>3004231
https://www.amazon.com/LETS-RESIN-Silicone-Translucent-Non-Toxic/dp/B07V5FFPWC
Basic-ass platinum cure I found on amazon

>>3004260
>why would I be cut when I'm not jewish?
Some of us have parents who were retarded 20-somethings who either fell for "it looks neater and it's cleaner" or pressure from brain-damaged zogbot grandparents.

>>3004283
thanks, the result looks really clean

>>3004285
Much better than I expected, yeah

>>3004260
>I'm not cut, why would I be cut when I'm not jewish?
US Christians were convinced to cut en masse and some of that retardation spread around the western world, at least the English speaking world.
That's a pet theory, I haven't gone diving for data to support it but it feels about right.

Another plausible theory is that jews wanted to not be b& from cutting themselves and so argue strongly that it's done for sound medical reasons and they convinced some parents and doctors of it in the process of trying to keep it legal for themselves.

>>3004260
>Thanks. that's horrid but if it helps then cool.
NTA I don't think it helps very much but you do can get a foreskin-shaped flap of flesh which under the circumstances, is about the best that can actually be done without something crazy like a foreskin transplant from 17 jewish babies with compatible genetics.
It's arguably a form of self-administered trans surgery.
On the plus side, if trans survives as a mainstream accepted thing long enough, genital reconstruction treatment might eventually allow regrowing foreskins that are your own cells and have the right nerves etc.

>>3004229
It's going in a big toolbox drawer. Just regular PLA, it just needs to keep the pieces together and protect them from banging into other tools.

>>3004234
Yeah, or in this case keeping the CAD skills from atrophying while I'm on summer break.

wtf is that green hole saw looking thing, by the way? You've got it next to reamers and center drills but it doesn't look like any machining/metalworking tool I've ever seen.

>>3004289
>NTA I don't think it helps very much
With constant coverage the glans of the dick actually does de-keratinize and regain the sensitivity it's supposed to have. It's apparently a little unnerving because the top layer of skin just sloughs off after a while.

>>3004302
/diy/ covers all kinds of home improvements and personal projects.

>>3004301
>wtf is that green hole saw looking thing, by the way?
NTA but it looks like it's for excavating the area around the pilot hole. Like a hole saw but that won't work if you're attempting to remove material from something that you're not drilling all the way through.
Essentially a circular chisel.

>>3004287
Being a very simple shape probably helps with that a lot. I've considered doing 3D prints for silicone sex toys, but the fact nobody does them with the kind of shapes I want means that they probably just fail to demold. I'd probably need at least a vacuum chamber to have any hope.

>>3004306
I figured that was how it worked, but you couldn't do a totally blind bore with it given the drill bit in the center. I guess it must be a pretty niche thing.

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>>3004301
>>3004306
It is just a hole saw with different blades.

I bought a Prusa XL while I was drunk a while ago and I'm finally starting to print huge things with it. I kinda regret getting the 5 tool heads because all I've used multi-material printing for is stuff like adding TPU to things that close or as a buffer so it's not hard material on hard material. Apparently they just dropped an "upgrade" for it which is the first one in like three years

>>3004243
Yeah I’d be looking at the larger Neptune 4s or Bambu A2L. Maybe something like a Kobra S1 Max or Creality K2 Plus if you’re after an enclosed machine.

>>3004313
Oh ok, that makes sense to store blades

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>>3004323
It stores everything. The tool holder, all the blades and the pilot drill bit.
The transparent plastic blister it originally came in was way too big and flimsy. Now it’s a neat little package.

>>3004322
thanks, I'll investigate further

>>3004357
nta but i got a neptune 4 pro
i'd say dont get a big neptune 4 unless you can get it REALLY cheap

>>3004313
that's one of the neatest things i've ever seen, wonder why the packaging didn't include such a holder/function as one itself.

>>3004360
I'm wondering, is it better to get a 3d printer with an enclosure? i live in a really cold area and it will be going in the garage

>>3004365
For PLA alone it’s not really a big deal. The main reasons for an enclosed printer are:
>faster print speed
>better thermal insulation for ABS and even hotter filaments
>walls to keep fumes and noise out
Maybe if it gets well below 10C out there you might want to use an enclosed printer, but the basic ones just have you leave the door or lid open when printing PLA or they’ll get too hot inside anyhow. If I recall only the fancier printers have methods for keeping the enclosure below a certain temperature, I bet the K2 Plus could do so.

>>3004373
yeah its regularly 0 or below by a few degrees (celcius). is printer noise that noisy? i used to own a ender 3 and that thing was nightmare with how loud it was. since I'm doing 24 hour prints I figure enclosed might be better?

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Bambu Patent leak pointing to a 10 head toolchanger fed by two AMS with 5 slots and an output for each slot.

>>3004376
the goyim have gone insane

>>3004376
hopefully they'll cause orcaslicer to support multi nozzle size printing. I'd happily have a 0.8 for bulk stuff and a 0.4 for detail.

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How bad is it, bros?

would a 3d printed 4080 profile be strong enough to not wobble?
im extending my simrig for flight sims and one of the profiles is 10cm short and i'd rather not buy another profile cause they are quite expensive

>>3004404
>would a 3d printed 4080 profile be strong enough to not wobble?
I think you mean a stabilising bracket for a graphics card?
It's hard to visualise your problem from those words, show a pic of your mock-up or CAD or whatever.

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>>3004405
no im talking about 4080 aluminium profiles
i cobbled together this mount but the profile it sits on is 10cm too short so this mount sits too low and digs into my seat

>>3004400
>365 bed
that shit will vary depending on temperature. measure it while hot, and probably adjust the knobs so that the thing's not in tension.

>>3004406
turn those vertical holes to diamond or teardrop for no supports. wtf is the tab on top? seems strong enough

>>3004363
>neatest
looks like death coiled to me, regular hole saws that attache properly to a bit are dangerous enough, that multitool looks like it'd spit C shaped shrapnel at the first problem.

>>3004410
no idea, i just stole the plate and slapped on a 4080 mount i stole from somewhere else
https://www.printables.com/model/360267-twcs-vkb-ucm-mount-plate

>>3004313
Ah interesting, I've never seen that style before. The first pic was kind of deceptive, made it look like it had multiple individual pieces of blade arranged around the center rather than those incomplete circles, if that makes sense.

>>3004389
Apparently it already does? People were saying so when the creality clit-tech was announced because it can also use multiple nozzle sizes.

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My first print on an ender3 v2 neo. Jesus Christ how horrifying

>>3003649
>foil
sorry to ping you about this again. I'm still struggling to find anything like what you posted that can be reasonably attached to the walls.
all butyl sheets I found use the butyl as the adhesive so once you attach it, its forever.
>>3004435
what the fuck were you trying to print out of nylon on an ender3 out of all things

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>>3004435
Aaand my second print. The bed is off level
>>3004451
It's silk PLA and I was printing a bed level test. I'll do it again after this cylinder is done printing.

>>3004476
point a space heater at it grandpa

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>>3004451
> I'm still struggling to find anything like what you posted that can be reasonably attached to the walls.
First of all, who said that any of my work was reasonable? Looking back, it was probably way to much work with way to many little details.
I'll try to put as much info into this one post as possible. The Insulation was mostly done for temperature reasons. Here is an example of the kind of insulation that I used:
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/336530757896
Feel free to look for something cheaper, this is just the first one that I've found right now. I did not use any form of adhesive for the sides. I just unscrewed the printers side panels, cut the insulation to the right size and jammed the insulation in between the side panels and the frame of the printer (left pic). This was way more work than it sounds. If you cut it to the same size, the thickness of the insulation will bend the side panels slightly. Even after popping the bubbles between the frame and the panels. Especially on the long parts that are not supported by screws. I had to cut it to fit as tightly as possible with a pair of manicure scissors. It fits like a glove with just the tiniest amount of insulation around the screws. I had to pop all the bubbles that were not needed (like the ones beneath the fan in the left pic) with a needle. For the insulation on the bottom, the back wall and the top cover I used double sided mirror tape (brand on the left pic). It's strong and resists heat and moisture. You can see the tape in use in the right picture. I also jammed parts of it beneath the printed hinges for a tight fit.
All this shit took me way more time than I'd like to admit. I disassembled and assembled and disassembled and assembled this fucker so many times like you wouldn't believe.
As a bonus I added my test results. First the naked printer, second with half assed insulation and the last with my full insulation. For the tests the bed was the only heat source.

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>>3004478
The layering looks good. now I'm going to upgrade the firmware to make tramming easier

>>3004376
How many active nozzles at a time?

>>3004486
I went for a custom build of Marlin with the stock Marlin UI and UBL enabled, it’s nice but it took a few hours of configuring it.

>>3004408
It's an SV08, no screws, it's always all over the place.
Jokes aside, the point is the mesh is a lot more accurate and fairly worse looking than the default probe would ever admit to.
Yet klicky produced a better first layer on the first try. Amazing stuff, probe doicking and undocking is the cherry on top.

>>3003993
Imagine getting memed into this

>>3004502
imagine defending your mutilation

>>3004503
It's precisely the opposite.

>>3004502
Well, it's working, so who really got memed?

>>3004503
Imagine getting mutilated

>>3003594
>That image is AI slop anyhow. 4 filament paths from the CFS system go into three in the nozzle.
WTF
I was going to ask why you slop up an image of a 3d printer instead of just googling for a manufacturer image but it's not released.
Can't scam people for pre-order payments if the manufacturer won't give you a press kit for it.

>>3004232
thanks for the input anon. I should be able to spend a bit of time troubleshooting this weekend.

if petg and tpu stick to each other perfectly and together should solve each other's problems and enhance each other's strengths, where are the petg+tpu blends? it feels like it'd make for a perfect filament, as long as high temps are not involved.

>>3004628
tpu with a petg core, or a nylon core would be stiff enough and basically indestructible.

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>>3004486
I spent fifteen minutes using the bed leveling wizard from that one very good firmware project and immediately had to move the printer. This morning I made my first legit CAD model to replace a part on my sewing machine. I tried using FreeCAD but OpenSCAD was so much easier than having to go through the fucking song and dance of getting a sketch to extrude. Then again, the bevels...

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>>3004644
the parts came out... functional! All the tolerances were dead on, now it's just a matter of tuning the printer settings to make something that isn't so stringy and weak at the bottom. I might upload it online if I can get it perfect

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>forgets to click avoid crossing walls
>LIKE A BOSS

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what causes this? is the print bed fucked?

>>3004648
that's literally nothing just ignore it

>>3004628
>>3004636
It would creep to a horrible extent, and heat resistance would be worse too. Creep and heat resistance are the only reasons to use PETG, by blending it with TPU you’d lose both.

Now PET+TPU might be more interesting, with or without glass fibres.

>>3004672
>Creep and heat resistance are the only reasons to use PETG
lol. lmao.

>they still haven't taken the ASA pill

>all of my printer problems were due to one motor in my ams going bad(or it was due to replacing the ptfe tubing to it)
I don't know why that's the last thing I thought of, but at least we got here.

>>3004699
Whoops, forgot UV and chemical resistance. Flexibility too if you’re making springs or some shit.

>>3004722
I’d have thought a motor driver could detect unusual behaviour in a stepper motor, and hence be able to give a specific error code for that.

>>3004726
>and hence be able to give a specific error code for that.
It was a bit of a mystery because everything was saying good, but it was underextruding to the point where it couldn't really print. Went down this whole rabbit hole of replacing shit(that wasn't broken lmao) and getting the same results. Realized it printed fine when not using the ams, realized it printed fine with the ams just not the first slot. Oh well, I have a back up extruder/extruder motor and also an AMS feeder unit that is possibly fine.

>>3004074
not even. I can slap any 3rd party fix to an ender and it will run, do that to a bambu and it will fail tremendously, that's besides the bloat of the enclosure that is not fullt sealed tm

>use 3rd party parts to fix ender
>get the opportunity to post about your ender calibration process
LMAO

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>>3004485
thanks for the detailed advice!

anyone has the califlower calibration tool stls?

>>3004775
>califlower calibration tool stl
>$6
dafuq is this shit, just make your own that isn't stupid

>>3004760
>do that to a bambu and it will fail tremendously,
bambu doesn't need a 3rd party fix they just work. feel free to cite an actual case strawmanning piece of shit

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>>3004504
>anti-circumcision
>defending mutilation
you what now?

>>3004645
>>3004646
worst foreskin restoration ITT

>>3004798
Stretching your dick skin to make a floppy "foreskin" is mutilating yourself again dumbass.

>printing a bunch of things with square bases together
>brim is perfect on three sides
>the parts themselves adhere perfectly by themselves
>but fourth side of the brim (one of the sides perpendicular to bed's movement) on every square is frayed with no bed adhesion
why can that be? the squares are spread all over the bed so it's not levelling or cleanliness.

>>3004827
belt too tight?

>>3004827
Perhaps the gantry is skewed (and the bed has been levelled to match), such that the bottom of the nozzle is not square to the bottom of the bed? This might especially be an issue if you've got a bedslinger with just one Z screw, if it's got dual Z then it might just be out of sync. Equivalently, the moving bed of a bedslinger might not be square to the gantry uprights. There's probably test prints for seeing how square your motion system is.

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>>3004646
it turns out my horrible stringing/strength problems were caused by five year old poorly stored filament I got for free with the machine. Hobbylobby filament prints wonderfully in comparison.

>>3004886
As expected.

I don’t think I’ve bought a new roll of PLA in like 4 years. I’ve been printing with shitty wet marble PLA for the past year, I got 3/4 of a roll for free from a friend. Doesn’t string as badly as your image, but it’s still kinda bad.

>>3004890
the image is the improved version. Cleaning this took maybe a minute. The green ones are the old filament

>>3004886
>>3004890
I have some decent PLA from like ~2018 thats been sitting around in storage.
I grabbed it and was going to try it out, but it shatters in your hand its so brittle. Trying to figure out something else to do with it, melt it in molds or something.

>>3004905
PLA degrades over time in the presence of moisture via hydrolysis. I'm not sure if this happens to any other common filaments. I also don't know how this affects a model that's printed or cast with old filament, or how it affects a model that's been printed and sat around for a long time afterwards. Will uncoated PLA prints just crumble after 10 years?

>>3004905
>>3004925
you can *probably* print with it if you do a single filament forward only print but if it breaks off in the tube or head it's a big pita. with filament prices where they are today you should probably just pitch that shit in the bin. I used to deal with this all the time because somehow my old delta would degrade the entire piece of PLA in the feed tube which turned spaghetti brittle for like a foot after not printing for a few days. my SOP became always unload when freshly done with a print and discard anything length of filament even mildly brittle- but even the brittle shit did print fine as long as it was forward like I said.

as far as lasting I've had printed PLA for 6 years that is just fine indoors. my outside PLA mailbox handle in direct sun crumbled after ~3 years and it got pulled at least once every day. I've got some other outside stuff in PLA that's in the shade and fine after a year but based on the mailbox pull that's no surprise, plus most of it isn't in direct sun every day (334 days per year).

>>3002649
I want to 3d print a cup holder ... Holder? Divider for my car. I have never 3d printed something and I am bad at math. How possible is this?

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>>3004946
one banana. the most difficult part is probably learning a cad program to design it in. onShape is the least overhead as it's free and browserbased, Fusion360 for hobby is the best if you can handle a steep learning curve. the printer you can probably find at a library or maker space.

if you search yeggi.com and put in cupholder you might find a model already that you can use. yeggi is just a conglomerate of other 3d sites, 3dcults and thingiverse probably being your best bets. don't pay for a model.

>>3004947
>Fusion360 for hobby is the best if you can handle a steep learning curve.
Fusion has a learning curve of basically zero, it's comically easy to use.

>>3004925
> I'm not sure if this happens to any other common filaments.
I have some ABS thats probably 7 or 8 years old, feels pliable and in nice shape. It honestly feels like it would print fine but im not going to trust it.

>>3004925
>Will uncoated PLA prints just crumble after 10 years?
I have figurines I printer with my first printer 13 years ago, and they dont seem brittle. They also have been sitting inside in a climate controlled house, and they dont have a lot of thin or brittle features on them either.

>>3004947
>>3004959
Its 2026, there is no reason to use anything other than FreeCad 1.1

>>3004982
i printed a glow in the dark calibration frog in 2014.
my neighbour put it outside in a pot plant.
she has since passed, and her next of kin left all the pot plants to us (fuck hauling a load of succulents half way across the world.) and the frog came with it.
it was surprisingly rigid last time i checked despite sitting on mulch for years.

>>3004983
this nigga doesn't reference his dimensions properly

>>3005002
I hope she liked the frog. :(

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Air box lid printed. Waiting for the tube to come in.

Is resin/SLA printing dead? Seems like FDM is all anyone talks about these days and most of the new products are FDM, at least at the consumer level.

>>3005039
i bought a resin printer and still haven't set it up because it needs so much processing work. but I think I'm going to so I can print some dolls

>>3005039
I fucking hate resin printers.
Unless you're running a business off one, or for some other reason using it literally every single day, resin printers are a boondoggle. They have uses, but are absolutely not worth the time or space they occupy for a home shop.

>>3005041
hmm, when a resin doll is about $500 it pays itself off after you print a few dolls

>>3005042
So you're running a business?

>>3005043
no, I'm going to be printing them for myself

>>3005040
>>3005041
This, I hope fdm gets to the point it can print minis at the same quality, so I never have to deal with resin printers again

>>3005021
what material?
https://hackaday.com/2025/12/10/failed-3d-printed-part-brings-down-small-plane/

>>3005051
not same but it's close enough with a 2mm nozzle

>>3005064
>2mm nozzle
Man's out there printing michelin tire man minis