How difficult and time consuming is it to master airbrushing miniature models?
>>3002804I just started learning this for slot car racing.I have some unique practice: Rust.The game has an MS paint in it for signs and I got so good with it I was selling art for people's bases and the style is so much like air brushing.My initial attempts are good really, I'm using craft store acrylic and medium with filthy water scooped from the garden fountain, but it seems to mix fine. I stopped using the thimble filters in the cup right away.
There's a lot of masking but I am getting metallic candy coats right off the bat.
>>3002809the purple crap smeared on the toy hauler body came with it, I'm trying to clean it. This is the first car I did.
>>3002804Depends on your standards.
>>300280420 hours to get good.https://youtu.be/5MgBikgcWnY
>>3002804>How difficult and time consuming is it to master airbrushing miniature models?Pretty easyabout 3 months
>>3002804>How difficult and time consuming is it to master airbrushing miniature models?Depends on how quickly you pick it up and what your goals and standards are. Something like laying down base coats or tossing on some rust like in your pic is relatively easy, camouflage and flawless final coats are harder, stuff like simulated lighting and photo-matched details are a lot harder. There are multiple threads on multiple boards with relevant links and people who can answer questions - /wip/ on /tg/, /smg/ on /toy/ and the gunpla/plamo threads on /toy/ and /m/.If you want to cut your teeth airbrushing I would honestly recommend starting with HG gunpla; they're dirt-cheap for the level of quality that you get and most models have a nice mix of larger flat areas, weird shapes and pieces, decals, etc. and it can even get you started with paint matching as there are official paints and official formulas for matching various models. From there move on to whatever you want.
>>3002947How does brush painting compare to airbrushing?
>>3002975Ones more like a hamaster and the other more like a dog sat on a barstool
>>3002975Not at all. I'm not good at it but I have a double action (is that the term) airbrush and use it sometimes.You have to control more parameters than when painting with a brush and while those do matter with a brush, speed, distance/pressure and angle matter much more. Lastly it requires more coordination. Not only because of how angle and distance (analogous to pressure with brush maybe) matter more but also there's that part where you need to control either air and paint or both with one control.
>>3002975Easier for detailing by far, no need for masking and easier set up/clean up. Airbushing is vastly superior for production painting and basecoating
>>3002804>How difficult and time consuming is it to master airbrushing miniature models?mastering? eh that could take a while. However, you can get serviceable results quickly. Priming and base coloring only takes a few tries to give you the feel for paint consistency and how not to flood the model. Free handing camo, streaking, and other fine detail work does take effort and the right equipment. I've used acrylics and lack of a venting system as an excuse to not push my airbrushing to better levels, so I've wallowed in mediocrity for years. >>3002975once you get an airbrush, 90% of your painting will be with it, it's just that much better and faster. You do need both though, like the black dividing lines between camo colors was done by hand.
>>3002804t.won awards for this shitYou need practice AND an artists eye AND the right paint n equipment. Some people get to one. Fewer get to two. Practice makes up for a lot. Good luck.
>>3002975Brush is a pain in the ass to get smooth streak free finish, i'd only use it where it doesn't matter eg miniatures/40k shit.Trains/Planes/Automobiles it's airbrush all the way.
>>3002804Easy to learn, hard to master. Building and painting scale models/minis is a great hobby on its own, and airbrushing is an especially fun part. I would say to get an airbrsuh as soon as you know you are serious about the hobby, and don't cheap out of on it, either.
>>3003072How was the 04 number on the side made? No way that was done by hand
>>3003333kit supplied decal
Over the long term how expensive is this?
Has anyone used a CO2 tank with a dual stage pressure regulator and an inline moisture trap instead of a traditional air compressor?
>>3003398I have since I use CO2 as MIG shielding gas, for tire inflation and bead seating, and short impact tool use.The dual stage regulator is a good idea for fine flow control and if you want dual use in future you can use a dual stage acetylene regulator by either replacing the nipple and nut with a CO2 nipple and nut (I buy crush washers by the bag and zip tie several to the regulator).CO2 rapidly cools as it expands so for airbrush use I suggest using a long pneumatic hose as I do so it has room to expand and warm up. You won't need a heated regulator for air brushingI use brass (not steel) high quality Milton pneumatic chucks and nipples. Your long hose can step down to the small airbrush hose. The Western catalog is worth a look since they dominate industrial welding gas fittings in the US. Once you learn CGA fittings you can do many cool things. If you decide you'd benefit from an inline CO2 heater those are available. CO2 refills are easy at local welding suppliers. I buy used cylinders since they're exchangeable and always have a couple handy. I also made a transfill whip to fill paintball CO2 cylinders to try them out for small work like air brushing but never got around to trying them out.
>>3003379A good airbrush (~$220+) can potentially last you a lifetime, with a couple of o-rings/needle changes. Compressors are generally cheaper, and it depends a lot on a type. But a good one can do a decade fine if you take care of it. Acrylic paints will potentially outlast you if stored properly. All in all, I would say it's a fairly cheap hobby, though with a bit of an initial investment.
What is the best paint booth to buy?
>>3003379>Over the long term how expensive is this?Not very. Spend a few hundred bucks on a compressor and an airbrush and aside from maybe needing a few replacement parts here and there (worn O-rings, being a dumbass and damaging the needle, etc.) both of those things will pretty much last indefinitely. That said, while you don't NEED a booth you need a booth. Lacquer fumes are nasty (and if you're not going to be using lacquer then what's even the point?) and even acrylic will start to deposit in a fine layer over everything (including what you're working on) sooner or later. I'd also recommend one of those discharge pots as well as some other accessories that aren't strictly necessary but are very handy like those alligator clips on a stick as well as a base to jam them into.
>>3003429A cheap one, just take it easy on the spraying, you can always upgrade the fans later
>>3003434Airbrush cleaning pots are imo a must. Like yeah, you don't need it, but it makes EVERYTHING so much better it's not even funny.
Any advice for airbrushing outside? I don't want to setup a paintbooth inside.
Has anyone painted a model outdoors? My area is hot but humidity is low.
>>300280410000 hours
>>3004342It could be done if you have a wind protected paint booth. A big cardboard box could work. Then you could do it outside. When it is very hot, you might get problems that the paint dries completely before it reaches the surface. That could result in a grainy finish. Maybe make some experiments with rattle cans first.
>>3003379You do not need any of the very expensive airbrushes. Even the cheap Chinese knockoff ones are good quality nowadays and perfectly fine for scale models.
>>3004974If you plan to airbrush in any capacity above priming, basecoating, and maybe a simple post/pre-shading, AND have a good time using it, then no, you shouldn't get cheap chinkshit. Especially if you are going to mostly use acrylics and not lacquers. There are chinkbrushes that are alright (Fengda BD180 comes to mind), but they are all nearly universally a pain to clean and all the other secondary activities you'll be doing a lot with your airbrush. Don't fucking cheap out on the airbrush, a good one that will potentially last you a lifetime is not that much of an investment in the first place.
>>3002804I think this is more a /tg/ question anon.
>>3004975Can't agree with that. I do use a BD180 with a .2 nozzle, which cost me ca. 25 bucks including shipping from China. It is perfectly fine. It is as good if not easier to use as my former Badger 100 or H&S Evolution (which I personally don't like but that's a matter of preferences). You can do fine lines and freehand camo patterns with it and it cleans up like any other airbrush. Also, a beginner will easily fuck up his first airbrush (like benind the needle while cleaning, dropping it, clogging it etc.), so why do that on a $200 airbrush? For what? I say get the BD 180 (or even two) and you're fine.
>>3003448Ultrasonic and cut fluid
>>3005048I have never in all my years (been airbrushing for nearly a decade now) seen anyone who owned both BD180 and Evolution and preferred the Fengda. I've seen people enjoying Fengda more than Ultra, but that kinda makes sense. But not to Evolution. To be honest, I'm not sure I really believe you here, anon. Especially when it comes to cleaning, saying the 180 is just as good/easier to use/clean than Evolution is a very weird claim. I had Evolution for years, and it is, in my opinion, probably the best "regular" airbrush to get. There are better performing ones (Micron, Infinity) but the differences there are marginal at best. I own Infinity and I sprayed with Micron a few times.>Also, a beginner will easily fuck up his first airbrush If he's completely braindead with both hands left, I guess. I'm very retarded and I never had any trouble with it. This is another reason why to buy a good brush - the build quality of, say, mid to upper tier HS or Iwata is incomparable to 99% of chinkbrushes. It's generally easy to break chinkbrushes, but you have to put in some effort to break better brushes. And it's not really an argument either, to break the pistol is basically impossible, and everything else can be replaced.
>>3005103LMAO isn't the point to just change the paint out quick? Like how lomg do you want to wait?>>3005106>Fuck up an airbrushThe needle maybe, especially if you wanna be cool and run it without the shroud.
>>3005106i got me the infinity and i love that thing.aint never clogged once on me.if you like airbrushing and actually use your first shitter one you buy, just fuckin step up to the infinity imo.its the best for the price imo.(drukn as fuck idiot here so take it with a grain of salt kek)
>>3005106>I'm not sure I really believe you here, anonWhat I found is that airbrushes is a highly subjective field where it is hard to give recommendations actually. I even earned tow Evolutions. First one I sold. Second one still flies around in a drawer. my gold standard still is the Badger 100 GXF but I can't find spare parts for it for a price I am willing to pay. Yeah, I do prefer the BD180 to the H&S.> everything else can be replacedcorrect, but at a certain pricepoint. A BD180 replacement needle and nozzle I bought for future use cost me 3 bucks.
>>3005149>What I found is that airbrushes is a highly subjective field where it is hard to give recommendations actuallyNot at all. It's a very exact field. There's a reason why Eclipse and Evolution are nearly universally recommended as top picks. >A BD180 replacement needle and nozzle I bought for future use cost me 3 bucksNot really. BD180 needle + nozzle costs usually around $12 minimum. HS needle is usually around $17. It's pricier, yes, but it's the only thing you might need to replace (+o-rings).
>>3005152>There's a reason why Eclipse and Evolution are nearly universally recommended as top picks.Because people want to sell you something. And the people who recommend are very often bought as well (influencers and authors on forums). And you are buying. Also who the fuck cares what is "universally recommended"? I have to use it at the end of the day. And if I find out through trial and error that I get better results with one than another, how is that up for debate?
>>3005162The reason why Eclipse and Evolution are universally considered amongst the best picks you can get is because of the atomization quality, build quality, machining/tolerances, ease of use, ease & quickness of cleaning, and more. All these things are pretty easily measurable, often literally, too. All that, compared to their price/performance ratio, is what makes them objectively great choices, especially for a tool that, with a little bit of care, will outlast you. I'm not saying 180 is a bad airbrush. It's fine, and as far as cheap chinkshit goes, it's a straight-up enigma with how much of a bang for buck it provides. It is, however, a fair bit worse in every metric compared to Evolution (or Eclipse). The simple process of disassembly and cleaning is day and night, the material quality (the fact you felt the need to buy a replacement nozzle is telling), the tolerances, and the QC, too. Good brushes like Evo or Eclipse are simply a better investment (especially long term). Doubly if you think the (scale model) airbrushing is a hobby for you, and not just some secondary/half-assed activity to other hobby. Which is why I still don't believe your claims. Tbqh, it kinda sounds to me like the usual "everything is from china anyway" and "look, I saved $2, therefore I'm superior" contrarian memery.
>>3005165I put my old Evolution in the classifieds now for 50 bucks. Knock yourself out.
