>>3003502
3M DP8010 is probably the best structural adhesive for plastics in the world. Way better than epoxy for plastics. I use it sometimes, but it's fucking expensive.

as for your situation, i would hollow out the solid bit with a drill, fill it with epoxy, and fill the hollow barrel side with epoxy, and embed a thin threaded bolt or two in the epoxy-villed voids, acting as micro-rebar. Might use something like jbweld steelstik for a job like this.

I can't imagine jb weld wouldn't work on this

>>3003509
It worked but not for very long. Maybe I used it wrong or not enough? I dunno.

I'd insert a rod or something on the interior to give the glue something to grip. End-to-end gluing just isn't going to have much strength IMO. I can't see the interiors on either side but what you can do will just depend on how much original material there is to work with.

>>3003558
You may need a better mechanical connection or improved surface area. JB has its limitations, like plumbing for example. It's not going to bond to everything well and has stress limits. If you can, add a dowel or screw internally to the break. Flood the break with jb epoxy and wipe off the excess. CA glue and particulate like baking soda, sand, or cement is useful for plastics bonding or drop fill.

A problem with glue joints is that the glue can work, but stress just rips one of the surfaces free again. So you're just peeling off a tiny layer instead of getting a lasting repair.

>>3003502
do not do some shit job and fire that.
it will break and impale your shoulder, face, or preferably your genitals.

>>3003502
It's a prop? 3D printer and paint. If it has to be metal, print a mold and pour molten aluminum.

>>3003575
This. Drill a hole in each part an inch or two and insert/epoxy/superglue a metal rod in there then re-form the outside with more epoxy or steel/stick etc and file or sand to shape and paint.