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File: Winter Wood Heat.jpg (2.6 MB, 3276x3276)
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Winter Is Coming Anon. Are you ready? The time for Lumberjack Testosterone is upon us.

How many cords will you burn? Do you buy or buck? Show us what you are working with: Splitters, Chainsaws, Axes, Mauls, & Saws. What are you cutting? What are you burning? Where & how are you sourcing? What are you burning in; make, model, year?
>>
File: 1 cord so far..jpg (2.83 MB, 2457x2457)
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1 cord stacked as of yesterday. i still have about a 1/2 cord left uncut. I am about to fire up the chainsaw again. wood is mostly dry, but definitely still needs a finish. the lower photo is mulberry felled 18 months ago but left stacked in 8' logs until yesterday. the upper stack by the house is oak of unknown age given free from some old guy who just wanted it hauled off. i have lots of well aged large elm rounds that are already cut but need split. I also have a fair amount of seasoned, burn-size elm rounds that just need cut. I dont have a moisture meter at this time but I still have a few months before burn season. I keep putting off buying a splitter because im poor, but these fat rounds just keep stacking up as I pick through the smaller burnable rounds. splitting elm with an axe, maul, wedge and sledge is fucking impossible. I've got to get a splitter by next fall. it HAS to happen.
>>
>>3004582
I've got this many rounds so far and will probably need about four times as much. it's mostly white ash with a little elm. I've got my eye on a couple of large standing dead white ash trees that should produce three-quarters to a full cord each and a medium half-dead maple that I'll use for overnight logs. I won't split anything until the first good freeze when the water will expand the cracks. Before then, I'll just burn the scraps like those in the foreground and no-split-ems.
>>
>>3004582
>>3004653
I've been using this CS-400 for eight years and have had to rebuild the carburetor and replace the pull start assembly. Otherwise it's been reliable and effective. I welded a steel pipe handle to the maul since I got really tired of replacing or repairing the fiberglass jobs at least once a year. The pipe handle is heavier but extremely durable.
>>
>>3004582
fuck i need to order firewood for winter! holy fuck i forgot. i need 5 cord like now fuck fuck fuck
>>
I've been making cardboard/paper bricks to supplement my firewood
>>
File: Model CMXGSAMY42N6.jpg (2.61 MB, 4000x3000)
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my chainsaw has a very frustrating issue. it seems to develop some sort of fuel vacuum or negative pressure after running. it will run fine up until I shut it off for refueling or chain tension adjustment. once shut down for any reason, it cannot seem to pull fuel back in to restart. there is no vent on the cap or tank to clean. even the prime bulb (seperate from the pull choke) will not fill and pump fuel when pressed after unit has run. if i pull the choke and then try, it will start for 1-2 seconds then die. I then remove choke and it will pull-start for 1-2 seconds then starve. if I leave it alone for many hours until it cools completely, I can restart it.

what do anon? if i wasn't so fucking poor I would just buy a husqvarna to upgrade. but this is what I've got to work with so I have to make it work.

Model number in photo caption
>>
File: tomcruise.jpg (438 KB, 1918x1080)
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>>3004787
>Husqvarna

>to upgrade

Get a Stihl son

But to answer your question, blast the gas tank with brakleen and let it dry
>>
>>3004787
Also sharpen and tighten your shit

A chains stretches from overheating, a chain overheats from having to force it to cut because it's dull as shit
>>
>>3004802
>>3004803

Original Anon here.

upgraded.

Also scored a giant elm. Cunty McCunface threw a fit because a single 3 inch by 6 foot long branch broke off in a storm around midnight sunday evening and landed in her front yard "EnDAnGerInG mY ToDdlEr!!" so she called the city, and our communist housing resource center and claimed the tree was diseased and the property management was neglecting her. Property manager said "alright... tree is diseased and dangerous you say? fine. we'll cut it down, exposing your hovel to 100% of the unabated southern sun. Wish granted."

I will, of course, be keeping the wood.

I only had 6 hours to procure a lift, buy a new chainsaw & jack what i could before the 5:00pm equipment return window. I got everything high enough to require the lift. I will load the luber tomorrow. since I didnt plan on lumberjacking, I didnt have my trailer. once wood is loaded and area is clear, I will remove the rest of the standing tree.

my guess: maybe a cord if im lucky.
>>
>>3005022
>I only had 6 hours to procure a lift, buy a new chainsaw & jack what i could before the 5:00pm equipment return window

Oh no baby, what is you doin'?

Just cut the tree down, then cut it up

But awesome that you upgraded fren
>>
>>3005022
Oh and a MASSIVE money saver when running a saw is mixing your own gas. Just get a gallon gas jug and a gallon of 2 stroke oil. 2.6fl oz in a gallon is 50:1
>>
I'm about to build me one of these. Was camping this past year and our camping neighbor had one.....dam it splits amazing with just a sledgehammer. The logs don't bounce!
>>
>>3005045
>The logs don't bounce!
What the fuck are you doing that they bounce?
>>
>>3005045
That style was invented by a 14-year-old girl that wanted to help her dad split firewood.
>>
>>3005045
I would add a slide-hammer type deal on top to slam down on the wood instead of having to use a sledgehammer
>>
why not a fan to blow on stove?
>>
File: woodstove_dd.png (783 KB, 900x506)
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I bought a Makita corded 120v electric saw to cut rounds in my shed/driveway, it's working great. I'm keeping my gas saws of course, but the electric one is so much more handy for work near/in the buildings.

If you live near a city or similar and have to scavenge for wood or don't have a woodlot, call up tree services and tell them that you'd take logs and/or chips, and at least here in the Midwest they'll drop a dual axle dump trailer right in your driveway of whatever a nearby job produced. Not always the best wood but it always burns. I just finished splitting and stacking a cord and a half of oak and I'm working on another cord or two of maple. They dumped two huge loads of wood chips which we use to mulch heavily around our fruit trees. We planted them in orchard rows and mulch the whole row deep and wide, the free mulch works great and the top layers will be decomposing as the bottom layers a few years from now, helping with moisture and providing nutrients. If shit hits and I need to triple our garden space, I can quickly pull back the mulch and plant right in the now-compost underneath.

Most tree services around here would rather not haul too far away or (God forbid) have to pay to dump it, so with a few calls and a low time preference you can get trees brought to you instead of having to get them yourself!
>>
>>3005345
I stumbled upon this silliness a year or two ago.

https://getchipdrop.com/
>>
too soon but i was supposed to build a compact oil burner forgot about that
>>
File: WINTER WOOD progress.jpg (3.65 MB, 3127x2620)
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my progress continues. I cut down several trees last week at my boss' house, but they are not pictured. I'll go pick them up in a few weeks.

I've done several measurements and calculations and I still only come up reliably with under 3 cords. at a glance it looks like more (there are several smaller piles of oak, pear, peach, apple, pecan, and other grilling/smoking quality not in photo) but I do not benifit from bullshitting myself. photo is about 60/40 elm/mulberry heat-use-exclusive. only 2 cords are seasoned for this year.

today's effort: I ran one tank out in the new MS271 bucking down my most recent elm for better seasoning. I have decided to just rent a 30T splitter this year. cost is $150 for Saturday & Sunday. hopefully I can just buy one for next season. this year's big expense will be a 4600w solar panel expansion plus another 5.12Ah LiFePO4, so a $2000-$3000 splitter isnt in the cards right now.
>>
File: 1000026182.jpg (221 KB, 900x1200)
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>>3004582
Picked up this one last week. It'l heat up my workshop that I also sleep in. We'll see how the winter goes. I have some wood, but not sure it's enough. If bad comes to worse, I'll just start dismantling the half rotten patio, maybe buy some coal.
>>
No stupid question thread, so y'all'll have to do. Daft question, fellas. Got an old lady who asked me for help taking out a thru-the-wall AC unit earlier this year. Fast forward to now, she hasn't put in a replacement. We're in like Zone 4. The fuck needs to be done to winterize the sleeve so gram doesn't turn into a Popsicle in -40 degrees F? Stuff it with 7 inches of fiberglass cladding and a cover over the outside part of the sleeve, plus the plastic one on the inside?
>>
i bought a sengoku kero heater on whim. for some reason i feel like this winter is going to be horrible.
i have 5 cord cut but the -20f nights cannot be reasoned with just a wood stove.
and i have my oil furnace as a back up.

odd that kero is cheaper than diesel right now. MIGA!
>>
>>3007977
>he -20f nights cannot be reasoned with just a wood stove
house insulation, ever heard of 'er?
>>
>>3007999
Yeah I stuff my walls with the body parts of your family members
>>
I have plenty of wood to work and plenty of saws to cut it. Got splitter envy real bad since the only thing available is a shitty single pole 4.5hp. My uncle has a few Bless splitters, PTO drive double pole 4’ blade. Can split a cord in an hour if you’ve got it stacked and ready. I would honestly rather use a maul than a shitty splitter. Better to have loved and lost than to have never split wood on a professional splitter
>>
>>3007999
>>3008000

Since we are discussing insulation and envelope effeciency:

We have zip board and tape sheathing, 2x4 walls, 2x10 rafters, open cell sprayfoam, synthetic underlayment and architectural asphalt composition shingles. we get incredible performance out of our envelope. our weak points are our front and rear entry doors. both have a shite kerf seal, always have. windows are jeld-wen off-the-shelf big box store drop-ins. they are double paned, but builder grade, they do alright i guess, but you have to make an effort to shut them fully and properly or they whistle when the wind picks up.

our house (great room) usually hovers around 25° regardless of how bitter it gets outside. -25° is not unheard of around here. 50°ΔT... comfy. it stays cooler in the master, but it has its own stove (Morsø 1410). it can get too hot if we arent careful. we usually load and light it right before we get in the shower. I close the door & intake when we get out and it will hover around 22° then slowly burn down overnight and is usually around 18°-20° when we wake up in the morning.
>>
File: 20240614_160038.jpg (2.72 MB, 2476x3302)
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>>3008003
>splitter envy
they make a decent press brake too
>>
Posted in another thread too but any ideas about this chainsaw problem I am having? >>3008186
>>
>>3008000
so that's why you freeze your ass off.
>>
>>3005022
>single 3 inch by 6 foot long branch broke off in a storm around midnight sunday evening and landed in her front yard "EnDAnGerInG mY ToDdlEr!!" so she called the city, and our communist housing resource center and claimed the tree was diseased and the property management was neglecting her.
All of my hate for these 'people'
>>
>>3004582
>How many cords will you burn?
Wtf is a cord? I'm not an amerifart. I burn around 1/4 ton per year, but that's because I'm at the cottage only a couple weeks per year

>Do you buy or buck?
I've bought oak and haev burned my own from my own land

>Show us what you are working with: Splitters, Chainsaws, Axes, Mauls, & Saws.
I have a saw and a pruning saw. The axe was made of chinesium and broke

>What are you cutting?
Fast growth pine. It's what I have

>What are you burning in
A stove that I bought second hand for 150 euros. It gets the place up to 34 centigrade. For amerifarts, that almost 100 fahrenheit. Then I have to open the windows because no one can sleep in a room that hot
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>>3007628
I think those are made for coal. I had one and it was a pain to feed wood into that
>>
>>3008202
Yo mama is so fat that the edgy tard-anons walls actually has a decent R-value.

He just hasn't insulated his roof.
>>
>>3008207
>34 centigrade
Subhuman.

Most of the 'Amerifarts' ITT are doing much more serious shit that you, you sound like it's pretty much a hobby.
>>
>>3008208
You're right, but most wood dealers around me sell it cut to 25cm which works ok. I might end up buying coal anyway, from my calculations it seems to be the cheapest option.
>>
File: Pay The Toll.jpg (1.4 MB, 4096x4096)
1.4 MB JPG
>>3008322

if coal is an option you should definitely go coal.

coal stoves fire from below, wood stoves fire from above. burning wood in a coal stove gives you an inefficient burn because of this. this means you are burning more wood for less BTU. compound that with coal just being a higher BTU/kg fuel, then add in the fact that is an old technology stove and your losses become crippling.

short version:
Coal saves you money and heats better.
>>
File: 1000026452.jpg (147 KB, 1024x768)
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>>3008343
I need to experiment a bit first. I'm in the middle of a fancy residential area, so most people are using electric/gas heat, and won't like smoke/smell. So far I've tried coal briquettes, I can get really clean burn if I warm the stove a bit with wood, then clean it, fill it up from the top and light a wood fire on the very top. Burns about 20 hours. These aren't that much expensive compared to coal. Coal is about 400$ a ton, 425$ for the briquettes. I've looked at wood ones, they are more expensive than coal per kwh.
I also have some scrap aluminium saved, I'm going to build a fin radiator on the smoke pipe.
>>
>>3008602
In my experience, the efficiency of the stove has a huge impact on how much heat it outputs and how long the fuel lasts. When I updated my old cast iron shop stove with a modern one I got in trade it was a night and day difference in how much heat it put out and how long the fuel would last. In this case, just plain wood. No idea how old the old stove was. At least 40+ years.
>>
my estimated cost of heating this winter:
$180 for the entire season.
the breakdown goes like this:
1300kwh elecric for 2x EG4 12K BTU heat pumps = $195 (~15¢/kwh)
1.3 cords of "free" elm/mulberry, some oak $85 splitter rental.

I dont have enough *seasoned* wood to go 100% solid fuel this year. I have about 2.5 cords but about 1/3 to 1/2 of that is very green, only having been logged 2 months ago. as such, we will use our mini-splits.

>the positive mini-split variable (bonus)
our house has a $7kW solar system (gried-tied, non-export, 20.5kwh LiFePO4 battery) that supplies about 70% of our power. this drops our *heating specific, grid purchased* cost to about $75-$100 for 2026-2027 season.

lets just assume $95 is our grid purchase this season. then we will apply the entire $85 splitter rental to this year's burn for simplicity. combine = $180 total actual cost to heat our home this winter.

and on that note, Anon, I must go drive into town and pick up the splitter. I will update with some photos later on. HAPPY & PRODUCTIVE LUMBERJACKING TO ALL & BE SAFE OUT THERE!
>>
File: Splitting Day 2.jpg (2.57 MB, 2531x3449)
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Day 2 of splitting.

I split for 6 hours yesterday with few breaks. Double acting splitfire. despite that, I bet I only made it through 1 cord. way slower than i was expecting. splitter has to go back tomorrow morning. i should make it through the rest today.

ive still got a fair amount i will need to cut shorter, but i better 85% will be good to go as is.
>>
local firewood jew just raised his prices for 400 a cord.
it's worth it though because iran cannot have a nucular bomb
maga
>>
>>3008958
firewood always gets expensive in the fall/winter. its a seasonal commodity
didnt you ever read the fable of the any and the grasshopper?
>>
>>3008963
nah, 400 a cord is unheard of unless you are a restaurant in the middle of NYC.
sub 300 is max for dry in middle of the winter.

wait a minute, you sell firewood don't you, moshe?
>>
File: 1736023018132139.png (708 KB, 1024x904)
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>>3008977
i havent cut wood to sell since high school circa 2003. was selling oak for 175 and fir at 125 then which if corrected for infinity m2 printing since would be way more than 400 now
and i quickly decided it wasnt worth doing it back then either
git gud grasshopper
>>
File: Splitting finished.jpg (2.29 MB, 3276x1395)
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it is done.
started at 10:00 finished at 18:00 today. two piles to the back (left of frame) are 85% seasoned. they've been sitting for 18-14 months, but were only bucked last month. the two giant piles up front (right of frame) are less than 2 months old. still not sure how many proper cords there are. I will get it stacked later this week and finally have an accurate measurement. but if i had to guess i would say 1 cord seasoned, 1.5 cord green. there is wood behind the seasoned piles that dosent show well in the photo and we have about 1/4 cord stacked on a rack by the back door.

glad its done.
>>
>>3008958
and for 700 you can get yourself a chainsaw that will give you a dozen or more cord every winter for years.
There is always deadfall to burn, ask a local farmer there will absolutely be a few who would be happy for someone to clear some trees away from fence lines or out of sloughs in their fields.



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