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File: gudnuff.jpg (39 KB, 636x566)
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questions that dont deserve a new thread

a place for retards to converse

thread theme: shitty fixes

old thread >>3002637
>>
I want to use this to spray condensed water from my mini split onto the condenser coil.
>>
>>3007680
To what end?
>>
>>3007681
Look at it logically.
>>
>>3007682
Go float your ass through another hurricane Halsey you dumb shit. Bring your reductive reasoning with you.
>>
>>3007680
ACs generally don't make enough water to do much of any anything to cool the coils. All you'll have done is add something that requires power and maintenance with little benefit.
>>
File: 1761920385042607.png (72 KB, 381x254)
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>swimming pool was resurfaced w/ aggregate finish
>brush daily, add 3 ppm of chlorine, balance pH daily
>T+5 weeks
>looking a bit foggy, no visible algae tho
>guess I'll go and shock it for good measure
>add 25 ppm worth of chlorine at night
>test it in the morning
>0 ppm FC
>okay I guess
>add another 25 ppm
>test in 2 hours
>2 ppm
>what the fug
>add yet another 25 ppm worth
>test again in 2 hours
>22 ppm
What is my swimming pool guzzling my chlorine like a whore? Phosphates? A phantom algae bloom?
>>
>>3007681
To precool the air cooling the condenser coil.
>>
>>3007744
I'm not a pool guy. Are you using stabilizer tablets? Is your filter clean? Do you have any leaks around the skimmer or drain? Did you have the emergency popup valve on the bottom of the pool replaced? Are any valves stuck halfway?
>>
>>3007744
You didn't let another anon look after your pool recently, did you?
>>
i just got a job working with a bunch of 20-25year olds and theyre all fucking slackers who avoid difficult/monotonous tasks that still need to get done and sit on their phone whenever management is not around. theres this very well mannered 80's style fratboy richboy trope who just does the rudest shit like volunteering others for shitwork. then theres one girl here who just shuts up and works. and then they also hired a very knowledgeable retiree age guy to work with us and he just talks and talks and talks and when he finally shuts up to work, he falls asleep a few minutes later, LMAO i just started so ima just shut up and work. maybe send my boss an email askingg if he can get me out on projects/activities where i can learn career relevant shit since i spend so much time doing the shit work instead of poking around for the 'fun work'

thoughts?
>>
>>3007766
Shut up and keep your head down.
>>
>>3007766
Welcome to the wonderful world of work.
>>
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>>3007766
Sounds a lot like my first job except smart phones were still 20 years away and people still drank beer during lunch. Shit ain't changed, really. Hell, one of the guys I worked with became a friend. He started his own business some years back. We were at a mutual friends birthday party and he was talking shit about one of his employees falling asleep during some downtime and being a crotchety old boomer about it. Once he was finished I told everyone about how he used to nap in a utility closet multiple times a week because he would come to work hung over all the time. He did this for years. You gotta keep people humble or their ego takes over after a certain point. They get rose tinted glasses and forget how things actually were. Then they start drinking their own kool-aid about how they actually got through life. Ain't no one in their 20s not slacking off at some point. Ain't no one in their 50s either. Any boss that claims they worked every minute of every shift is a lying sack of shit or a literal psychopath. Try that shit as a normal human being and you'll burn out like a lit fart.

Do your job, put in the effort, and let your bosses know you want to move forward in your career. Don't worry about how much or how little anyone else is doing unless they are actively fucking with you or trying to scrape their shit onto your plate and have you clean it up. Not everyone is doing what they want to do or even in a company that will give them the opportunity to do what they want to do. Many, if not most, people are just there to collect a pay check. That is fine and not your problem. Just make sure you are in a company that will actually value your contributions and give your the opportunities you are looking for. If they don't or won't, well, just collect your paycheck and keep applying to jobs that will.
>>
>>3007771
>Once he was finished I told everyone about how he used to nap in a utility closet multiple times a week because he would come to work hung over all the time. He did this for years.

ive never had a job where anyone could do this. i actually once got extremely drunk the night before a shift where my
boss told me i would just need to open the shop up for some subcontractors and then close up a few hours later. i had a small to do list and then struggled with it at the end of my shift, :p
>>
>>3007766
>thoughts?
The "ladder" is an illusion.
The job is hiring 20 year old girls and old ass men.
There is nowhere to move up, you exist *explicitly* to do the shit work. Thats why they hired the likes of you and the others.

You begging the boss for more work?
Youll get more work, more responsibilities and duties, more hardship with no more pay and nothing to show for it.

Good little worker bee bossman will exploit to the fullest extent.

Your next employer when you jump ship wont give a flying fuck whether you only did the work asked of you vs you working yourself into the ground for no reason.

Its not the 40s, you dont work yourself out of the mailroom into a well paying career with a pension.
>>
>>3007775
Big company, white collar job in an office building. We started in the 'services' department. Basically, we were dogsbodies, gophers, bitch boys. Whatever needed doing that wasn't part of someone's job description went to us. Bet you didn't have that at your job either? Being able to tell someone with a straight face that it wasn't part of your job description and that you couldn't do it. Bosses wouldn't even ask you. They knew what you were paid to do and what you weren't. They were serious about it too. You couldn't hang a fucking picture in your office or even move furniture around. That was a maintenance job to drive that nail or move that desk. If you did it you'd get shit. If you did it and hurt yourself they would contest your Workman's comp and write you up. If you hurt someone else they would fire you. You'd call maintenance, tell them what you needed, and they would decide if it needed an actual professional (shitter's clogged) or a bitch boy (40 reams of paper were delivered and needed to get distributed to all the office copiers). They would call us for the latter. Or the mail room would call and say a bunch of odd sized packages that wouldn't fit in the mail cart had arrived (if it didn't fit in the cart the mail room wouldn't deliver it) and needed to go to the 4th floor. Or the warehouse would call and say they needed someone getting paid peanuts to come break down a bunch of shipping crates so the real employees wouldn't be wasting their time. Or there was a big meeting this afternoon and they needed several catering plates picked up from a local restaurant. Bitch boy stuff.

That also meant that we were unsupervised a lot of the time and had down time fairly often. Sometimes it was a fucking madhouse too. If someone didn't check in for an hour or two it wasn't that noticeable and we covered (lied) for each other. You know how TV shows always have secretaries reading magazines or people dipping into closest to fuck? That kind of place.
>>
>>3007779
what year was this? boomer 80s? what was the pay? i can see a job like this paying a few bucks above min wage out here ...seems like amazon style management is phasing out low-wage slacker jobs
>>
>>3007785
It was the summer of '85. I was 20 when I started. I had gotten an Associates Degree in Computer Information Systems and was all hot to trot. Not a lot of job openings for that in a flyover state at the time. I was getting $3.50 an hour, just above minimum wage. It was full time though, so I jumped at it. I think McDonald's was paying more but their schedules were dogshit.

I've worked a ton of different jobs since. I did eventually end up in IT but it took a few years. Some jobs are still like it was when I was a kid. Like the one I am in now. Some are nose to the fucking grindstone, go go go, all day every day. It depends on the culture. A lot of smaller companies I've worked at were hungry. High pressure, always on, no schedule. You never knew what you were doing next until something caught fire. Sometimes it was because they were a startup and trying to look like hot shit so someone would buy them up. Other times it was because management was drinking the Steve Jobs kool-aid and thought that being an asshole was required. Other times it was because the company just couldn't pay the bills unless they were riding everyone and pinching every penny. No matter what, my goal was always to get a better job somewhere else. Either though acquisition or transition to another employer.

Probably my best job was a stint at HP back in the mid 90s and early aughts. It was sweet. Great pay, *great* benefits (nothing comes close except Google at its peak benefits era, but for HP it was Tuesday, not a high point), great people, steady work, doing cool things, making good products. When Fiorina took over it went south in a hurry. I was caught up in the layoffs she used to justify her 4 million dollar a year salary. Then I worked for hungry startups for a few years and took a few years off after a few of them paid out but also because the great recession hit.
>>
>>3007793
Part II
I got back into things doing contract IT work. Miserable. Got treated like ditch digger by fuckwits. It had its moments. Had one corporate shitstain chew me out for skipping a kick off meeting that had nothing to do with me. Out in the open in front of everyone no less. I handed him my card, told him to have his boss call me, and walked. His boss called me, I explained what happened, and told him he either reigns in Bill Belichick, Jr. or he gets someone else to do the job. He promised it wouldn't happen again. A week later it happened again. I walked out and called the dudes boss on the way home. I told him the contract was null, cited the clause, and gave him the number of my lawyer if he wanted to discuss it. I then called up one of the people on my waiting list that needed some easy stuff done and told them I had a few days free. The pay was good and I could schedule my own vacations but I tired of being my own boss. It is a lot of paperwork, bullshit, quoting, inventory, and running around. IE real work. It was always shit work too. Network tear outs, migrations, upgrades of old cheap shit that should have been retired years ago to new cheap shit that should never have been purchased.

I eventually got back into a salaried position doing IT for a business. It was fine but nothing special. Did that for 2-3 years and then went to work for a university. Low pressure but skilled work. Some days it is fixing a printer, others it is upgrading the network backbone to support a new mainframe. If you think business hold on to old shit, jesus. We have a climate controlled room that stores backups going all the way back to the 1970s when they were still reel-to-reel and some IBM big iron running z/OS that shipped during Obama's first term. That said, the big stuff is always on the calendar months out and the little stuff is easy. The only time I do helpdesk stuff is when there is literally nothing else for me to do or the queue is backed up.
>>
OK, here's my question.
I'm enrolled in a apprenticeship course at my college (there's no community college that does free/minimal cost courses like in the US) so I used my RESP savings to attend and pay off my student debt fully.
I did my first 8 week coursework, and passed my final exam.
Naturally their website is so shitty that I can't view my final exam grades, or any of my fucking grades because they're unmarked, so I have no idea on what the status of my course is.
Why the fuck are colleges in Canada so fucking inept? Same shit with universities by extension, it feels like they're for-profit but raped by government red tape so they cannot effectively operate as a business and instead have to do bullshit like exclude people paying for their tuition in full because their GPA isn't high enough, have convoluted bullshit around apprenticeship certification and a confusing program that demands work hours while paying for education, etc.
This shit is all retarded, I get that public education has to be regulated since everyone attends, but these are for-profits and are simultaneously incredibly restrictive, and unable to maintain basic features of their service (student support, grading, their website portals, etc).
Maybe I'm in over my head, but this shit pisses me off, if its clearly for-profit and taking your tuition money to provide a service, why does there have to be so much bullshit involved?
Outside of gatekeeping/useless workers (office/HR ones) justifying their job, I can't think of anything else.
>>
>>3007864
Do people working at schools make good money? No. So why would you assume they have the best people working at them? The best you are going to get is some of the people are there for the joy of it and also happen to be good at their jobs. The rest are there either because they have no better options or they love the work but aren't actually that good at it.

Double that at a for profit place.

>why does there have to be so much bullshit involved?
My tradie friends say that the building codes were written in blood. Someone, somewhere fucked up enough that the government caught wind of it and drafted rules for them. This does not happen to industries that run smoothly and have no problems. All you ever hear about is shit like "programmers can't call themselves Software Engineers in Texas because of some bullshit rule. Why would they even have a rule like that?" Picture related. The Texas Engineering Practice Act restricts who can call themselves an 'engineer' after some shithead calling himself an 'engineer' fucked up a gas line installation and blew up a fucking school. I'd bet money on any government red tape being in place because of lawsuit or public outcry after something like that.
>>
>>3007869
>My tradie friends say that the building codes were written in blood. Someone, somewhere fucked up enough that the government caught wind of it and drafted rules for them.
This is fine, some regulation is required
it's just that the resulting regulation is so retarded and rapey instead of following common sense just to justify someone's job that drives me up the wall.
Using insurance as a example, why the fuck are insurance jews allowed to drive rates up to exorbitant prices, but can't deny people service based on their ethnicity, skin color, etc if they know that population is more predisposed to getting into harm or doing retarded shit more often?
In Canada, insurance here for new drivers is 400$/mo, going up to 600$/mo because of how the driving schools are owned by migrants, who do fraud (especially on CDL licenses), and never get punished or fined for it because that'd be racist.
The precedent is that everyone is remotely racist to some degree against the flood to indians who physically smell like human shit (or obnoxious amounts of spice and cologne), but cannot do anything or act on it because it's socially taboo.
Which brings me back to my apprenticeship, despite paying for my education and passing the course, i still need to have "practical experience" for the 3rd and 4th year which is ridiculous, because I'd rather just pay for the courses, finish them and pass, and then find work.
All of this "earn while learning" stuff is bullshit marketing because nobody wants to onboard a apprentice until they've had 2-3+ years of experience, but to get that experience you need to already be a apprentice with a company.
>>
>>3007873
>All of this "earn while learning" stuff is bullshit
that is the way you actually learn. while most employers just give you bitch work and call it learning, you only gain real knowledge by doing the work. a school won't give you a feel for when an oil filter is seated correctly vs crossthreaded, you gotta learn that the hard way by spraying oil all over the shop floor. just about everything i know about my job i learned by fighting with against it till i found a way that doesn't suck or watching some grey beard do it the easy way. you only go to school to learn the code cuz no employer is going to pay a jman to teach you building code and you can't trust people to read it on their own time.
>>
>>3007680
Just find an old AC manual and look into making a water cooled condenser housing.
Also, "Enjoy your calcium/mineral build up on the condenser".
>>
File: 1765040801917271.jpg (84 KB, 1000x750)
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Anyone knows where I can find picrel (the cable adapter), preferably with detachable cable? Yes, for Parkside x20v tools.
>>
>>3007899
did you look on amazon? we have battery adapters for everything to everything in US. we don't have parkside though and i don't want to change my region to check for you
does it have to be cabled?
also that's a heat gun. I've tried to run my plug-in heat gun on a m18->outlet adapter and it couldn't handle the draw
>>
>>3007904
>*Pic for illustrative purposes only*
Yes, there's plenty adapters for hooking 3rd party batteries directly (e.g., from another thread: https://powertoolsadapters.com), but through a cable i couldn't find much and only for the battery, not the part that connects to the tool, not for Parkside. This one was on a local site, but it's no longer available.
>>
>>3007907
>does it have to be cabled?
>>
fixing and repainting my window frames
are there any good drill or grinder attackments that makes scraping old paint faster than handing scraping it (took me a day to scrape off half the window frame)
>>
>>3007911
Yeah, that's the whole point of it: being able to hang the battery on your belt/wall, or keep it on the bench, etc., instead of it just weighing down the tool. Heck, even connect the tool to a power supply.
>>
File: wifi power delivery.jpg (72 KB, 614x501)
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>>3007911
>>does it have to be cabled?

i tried wifi power delivery but it was a kinda weak
good enough for an anal tickler but not enough to drill a hole
>>
>>3007919
Yeah, sanding discs.
>>
that lowkey works though
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>>3007921
i mean you're looking for a cabled battery adapter, why not just get the cheap heat gun you can plug into an extension cord?
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>>3007893
>"Enjoy your calcium/mineral build up on the condenser
Condensed water is distilled water.
>>
File: IMG20260913113256 - Copy.jpg (789 KB, 1061x1541)
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What do I even fill this with?
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>>3007958
It's going to be full of all the shit in the plenum of your air handler, and others pointed out "You're not going to produce enough water", you mong.
>>
I have a water main leaking underneath my house slab somewhere. What do I need to know for this?
I saw water trickling out of my garage this morning and immediately turned it off. I called a big box plumbing service who sent a guy out, he cut the wall where my main goes under the slab from the service junction and said the water is backflowing up to this point, so it's somewhere under the house.

He ordered a sonic leak testing guy to come out but since it's the weekend he can't make it until tomorrow morning, and the actual work probably won't happen until Monday. Til then I have my water shut off and I'm only turning it on to take a shit.
What do I need to know about this situation to not get fucked by the plumbers and to fix it correctly? I have about $10k to sink into this, the house is 22 years old so I don't mind replacing a longer section of pipe.
>>
>>3007986
>What do I even fill this with?

pretty straightforward
remove all rotten wood
replace with non-rotten wood
dont treat it as cosmetic surgery, it's major league tear-down and replace
coz rot never subsides, it only grows like cancer
and the solution to cancer is always:
CUT IT OUT
CUT IT ALL OUT
>>
>>3007998
>only have 10k to spend
get a written bid before committing to anything
plumbing is notoriously assrape and pipes buried in concrete are not going to be cheap by any standard
>>
>>3008010
This. When my old pipes started to go in my place we just abandoned them in the slab and re-ran everything in the attic. That way I only had to cut some holes in the drywall in a few places that were mostly under sinks to put in new supply lines. The killer was the showers and bathtubs. It was easier to cut holes in the stucco to access the pipes through the exterior walls then remove tile. Stucco is easy to match compared to tile.
>>
>>3007998
i'm a service plumber and deal with this regularly, my area is mostly 30-50 yr old copper homes so...
I'll share my standard experience:
>slab leak
leak detection to minimize demo, restoring demo is expensive; especially in house with tile, cabinets, wood flooring, w/e; not to mention concrete
>leak detection identifies spot X
ok. slab leak repair starts at 1.8k. that covers a 12x12 square of standard depth and pinhole repair (normal)
is there a footer? another 600$
was leak detection off and I have to chase pipe? another $500 a foot
I give all this upfront
though know, if your piping is starting to fail you should expect it to be a reoccuring instance over the following years
if this pipe installed the same time as all your other pipe and experiencing the same water has corroded...
do you have home insurance? they will contrast this repair with a repipe cost
I will work up a repipe estimate
essentially $450 per 'drop' for attic run pex. bathroom sink, 2 drops, shower, 2 drops, toilet 1 drop; etc
repipe for standard family home 8-14k
if you want we can do the slab repair right now, i've set expectations
permiting for a repipe can take up to 2 weeks
>>
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>>3008013
Does anyone even do copper for residential anymore or is it all just PEX? I hate PEX and sharkbite shit. Years of rentals and horror stories between myself and friends where every few years half your shit would get ruined because the PEX repair of a PEX repair of a PEX repair failed. I lived in a place where they replaced the same fucking pipe three times. The original post 2000s copper 'pipe' was really more like Chinese copper foil and only lasted a decade. They replaced it with PEX, which failed (split along its length). They replaced that with more PEX, which failed at the connectors. First at one end, then the other. What do I have to do to get water pipes that aren't shit? Go back to wood, cable, and beeswax?
>>
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>>3008007
I think I got it all. Ended up using a die grinder to carve away all the soft and discolored wood. Then absolutely drenched it in timber preservative.

I hate this fucking house, the old owners put the concrete render directly on the old weatherboard cladding. It makes it impossible to properly inspect the wood for rot. I think Im going to replace all the windows with aluminum and re-clad the house once I have the funds.
>>
>>3007942
he wants portability probably?
>>
>>3008013
Thanks for the response. When the guy showed up he told me I had high water pressure and I should have had a pressure reducing valve. I had a bathroom pipe bust about a year ago and got that fixed.
But this is what I'm afraid of is that the whole house is fucked. It's 22 years old, 2 issues in two years and who knows what the previous owner dealt with. I appreciate your estimates on those prices. I'll have to see what the sonic testing turns up tomorrow.
>>
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>>3007919
Used a sanding disc, less effort than manually scraping it. Wondering if an orbital sander is worth grabbing if i still have 5 windows like these to do. Also advice on the remaining bits on corners
>>
>>3008018
>timber preservative
Looks like farm diesel. What is that stuff?
>>
>>3008031
>What is that stuff?
Its Koppers frame saver, a boron-based wood preservative.
>>
What is the correct way to install siding on this angle? I cant see how to do it without sacrificing most of the nail strip or most of the flange.
>>
>>3008014
uponor pex has a 25 year warranty on their pipes/connections that covers any consequential damage
if you're using knockoff brands, such as what is available at home depot, that is an issue
>>
>>3008084
Are you using an undersill?
>>
>>3008087
My house's pipes are 75 year old galvanized steel with some cooper additions that were put in back in the 1970s... when the water heater was last replaced. It turned 53 in April and only leaks a little bit. 46,000 BTU to heat 30 US gallons for a 38.7 GPH recovery rate.

I dread having to replace anything because I can't find anything locally that isn't dogshit. I tried to special order a water valve for my washer because no one out here stocks anything for copper anymore. Let me tell you what a fucking chore that was. Everything is fucking Chinese now. Every time I would call a place they would be like "Sure we have that! Oh, wait, you are in California? Sorry, our brass has TOO MUCH LEAD IN IT to be shipped there." I ended up using a compression fitting type that wasn't intended for washers. It looks completely different than the cold water valve and messes with my OCD every time I look at it.
>>
>>3008091
unfortunately they don't make anything as good as they used to. if you replace that water heater with a new one like it you'll be lucky if it gets a quarter of the life
unfortunately you still will have to at some point
75 year old galvy is a miracle it isn't leaking already and repairs on that are more expensive than copper
it's going to have to be addressed at some point
sucks we live in a world where the only materials are worse now, but new worse materials is better than old failing materials

if you're aesthetic, and on gas, tankless water heater is probably the better choice when replacing
it's more upfront but will likely last longer if flushed yearly (have them install service valves)
uponor pex is the only practical option for an affordable repipe, just make sure they're using the name brand with the warranty and it's something they regularly do and have a reputation
if you just hire a cheap smhuck they'll just file bankruptcy before helping you with a problem like that
>>
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How can I clean the condenser of my tumble dryer? Pic is after vacuuming. The usual advice given online is "soft brush", but the lint is caked on and won't budge. Any chemical I could spray it with?
>>
Anybody ever use any of that concrete busting expandable foam stuff? Was looking at the Dexpan brand. It’s rolled say it works great for busting slabs and rocks. I’ve got some 1’ thick reinforced concrete piers I need to bust into smaller chunks. Drilling a few SDS holes seems a lot easier than demo sawing every piece
>>
>>3008127
drill a line of holes close to each other and then hit it with a sledgehammer
>>
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>>3008127
You can rent a breaker for $140 a day.
>>
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I have a number of 35mm point and shoot film cameras in various states of repair. I want to fix them and sell them. It's easy to test the operation of the flash, shutter and winding mechanisms, but is there an easy way to test that the cameras can take photos? I've thought about buying some cheap bulk black and white film, then just cutting a few frames feeding the film into an empty cartridge, then shoot and develop the film, rinse and repeat until all issues are solved. Is there a more modern way to do this? Have they made tools or devices to test cameras like this? TIA.
>>
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I was just given some machines for free. I don't have any experience making things or using power tools like this. But assuming I have a good supply of hand tools and no other power tools (besides cordless drill) what kind out trouble can I make with these? Anything cool to do with these or should I just sell them to some Mexicans on craigslist?
>>
Just the thread I was looking for. Got an old lady who had her AC take a shit over the summer, who had it removed, and hasn't replaced it. Winter is coming, and she still has the damn thru-wall AC sleeve unfilled, and we have a tendency to get get -30 Fahrenheit temps in the middle of winter.

Was thinking of getting some insulboard rated at R-10, cutting out 3 inserts of it at the same dimension of the sleeve minus a smidge, then facing taping the shit out of it. This retarded, or is there a more proper way to do this?
>>
>>3008171
replace the AC?
>>
>>3008141
i'd probably just clean them up the best you can and just sell them as-is.
the kinds of people that buy this kinda crap are willing to troubleshoot their own problems.
>>
>>3008175
also it probably goes without saying but take good pictures of them before you post them and list known issues or people asking for refunds will murder your profits.
>>
>>3008168
With those three tools you can cut some wood, sand it down to look pretty, and drill perfectly straight holes into them. If you're not creative enough to think of what you can do with that then that's your problem.
>>
>>3008168
>Central Machinery
>Ryobi
>micro scale
You might get $35 for all of those together.
>>
>>3008168
Those little 1x30 belt sanders kick ass for sharpening knives if you know what you're doing. Can also take off too much metal real fast if you don't know what you are doing.
>>
>>3008191
What if I put my penis on one BUT I'm not circumsized?
>>
>>3007998
Follow up to this - the leak detection showed it was under my garage slab. We decided to abandon that segment and reroute through the attic. Everything is all good now but when going back through photos from the service guy I noticed the pipe is laying directly on the thin edge of a metal connector plate for a truss. There's no way this is good right? I think I'm going to call them back out to affix this properly.
>>
>>3008199
Do you want to become circumsized? That might be one way to do it...

>>3008220
Yeah I'd slip a hose over that or affix it to the wooden truss with a EMT conduit bracket or something along those lines.
>>
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Are there any stores like Radio Shack in central europe? Germany specifically
I know you can get everything online nowadays, probably way cheaper even, but I yearn for the sensation and spectacle of being surrounded by circuitry and exposed copper, technology that is not meant to be consumed, but to be used and transformed
Those places are almost extinct afaik and the last place I went to that had that 14 years ago was a big "Conrad" near my home town.
I even went to visit it recently (4 years ago) and saw only an abandoned building with the brand logo still intact. I shed a single tear seeing those halls without light.
>>
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What do you think about using a mini split to collect pure water in an off grid or emergency situation?
>>
>>3008248
I don't think it would collect enough to cover the entire amount of water you could need to drink in a day but it could supplement things. It is basically distilled. The hard part it keeping the contamination out of it from being collected from a non-sterile environment. Of course, that is what water filters are for. Those should always be in your emergency kit even if it is a little bugout bag.
>>
>>3008254
On a humid day I was filling one of those coffee cans every two hours and that was indoor air. If I kept the doors and windows open to harvest more moisture it would probably be even more.
>>
>>3007763
lol the other guy that forgot to put the filter in
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>>3008248
I'd worry about lead contamination.
>>
>>3008248
A typical adult male should drink about a gallon of water a day. Or 3.8 liters. If that can is a large coffee can (about 7 inches high, 4 inches in diameter) that is about half of what you should be drinking a day. So you would need two of them a day per adult male. That is assuming light work and not very much sweating.
>>
>>3008295
What if I substitute a couple cups of coffee, about 3-4 beers, a monster energy drink and maybe a powerade in there too?
>>
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I am retarded and trying to assembly this lamp fixture.

I have it mostly done but:

Whats the metal 3leg pronged thing for?
Whats the tho plastic see through bits for? They seem to screw together.
In the bottom right, the round cap, that has two screws what are they for? One seems to be an adjustment but not sure.
Do I need the ground wire (eu) it broke cos its cheap
>>
Clear things are a gland/strain relief for the cord to pass through that hole in the metal more than likely. Did it not come with assembly instructions?
>>
>>3008295
With how much creatine powder?
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My office has some kind of wood or floating wood floor similar to pic related. I'm a rentoid, so I have no idea what it actually is.
My office chair and other things have left some kind of residue on the floor, kind of like rubber from sneaker soles or some kind of random gunk trampled solid.
Now I am wondering how I can remove that shit again. I don't want to crawl around on all fours and scratch it off with my fingernails, but I also can't just douse everything with some strong cleaning solution because, well, swelling and warping are not nice if I want to use this and get my deposit back eventually.
I already thought about using some kind of brush, but I don't want to test a million brushes until I find one that is stiff enough to properly clean and soft enough to not scratch everything up.
Am I overthinking this or are there any actual pro strats for approaching this?
>>
I have a question about how the water softener might be piped into my house... If I go out to my water softener and close the inlet/outlet valves on the water softener, my house still gets water. So where is that soft water actually going and how does my house go back to getting soft water just because I opened it back up?

The technician tried explaining it to me but I just didn't understand. He was talking about reverse manifolds or something. I'm just not understanding how the house suddenly switches back and forth between soft water just because of those two in/out valves...
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>>3008380
I didn't do a good job of describing my question.
My old water softener was entirely disconnected, pulled off the piping yesterday. But I was still getting water to my kitchen sink.
So this MUST mean there is some sort of bypass around the softener, which means there is a mixing point downstream where both paths meet.
What controls this mixing point to make sure that once I open the softener back up, I'm not just getting straight hard water still? What forces the flow through the softener?
>>
>>3008381
There's probably a pressure relief valve at the inlet side in case the softener gets clogged/shut off. Back pressure increases, opens the valve, goes through the bypass section, and then a 1 way check valve at the outlet.
>>
>>3008381
Have you tried letting it run for a bit? It might just be left over water in the system. Just that sink or the whole house? I have seen places that specifically didn't soften the water going to the main sink for some reason. Find your main shutoff and follow that pipe until it gets to the softener. If there is a bypass or something like that it will be somewhere along there.
>>
>>3008412
retard
>>3008422
retard
>>3008381
nobody can tell you shit without actual images of your pipes

decent filtration systems have built in bypass units where you can turn two valves or push a bar on the unit to decide if it is going through the unit or going around
>>
>>3007669
any resources or pointers on how to design good lighting for a new construction? I'm designing the plan for my future tiny house, and I have little to no idea on how to do it.
same for running water + sewage lines
>>
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>>3008304
Yes - that makes sense. The diameter doent seem to match anything ni ely though.
>>
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>>3008300
>Whats the metal 3leg pronged thing for?
could be to keep bulb/socket in place so it doesnt touch the sides.
>Whats the tho plastic see through bits for? They seem to screw together.
joiners or cord flex protector
>In the bottom right, the round cap, that has two screws what are they for? One seems to be an adjustment but not sure.
other side of long tube maybe, threaded onto the silver threads.
>Do I need the ground wire (eu) it broke cos its cheap
if it is not double shielded then you could zap yourself if there is a short circuit or whatever.
your photos suck ass, do you not know what it is meant to look like?
>>
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>>3008436
maybe
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>>3007669
need a rigid 3.5m small diameter 'rod', that barely bends when held in the middle by something like 0.5m wide. i was thinking stainless steel curtain rail, but you guys might have something better?
>>
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>>3007669
What are some lightweight software options for modeling construction and furniture projects? Are there any tools specific to electrical systems, gas pipes, water pipes, etc.? My main objectives are to:
>digitally reconstruct my house, coarsely for now but eventually down to the placement and variety of nails used
>design workshop furniture, e.g. workbenches and equipment racks
>explore possible room layouts for furniture and equipment
I also have a 3D printer that I'll be learning to use in the near future; I've asked /3dpg/ about their CAD suggestions towards that end for my antique hardware.

I'm using a Linux laptop from 2012:
>ThinkPad T430
>OS: Linux Mint
>CPU: Intel i5-3320M (4) @ 3.300GHz
>GPU: Intel 3rd Gen Core processor Graphics Controller
>Memory: 16GB DDR3
>>
>>3008443
How little deformation, under what strain?
>>
>>3008447
basically no strain, holding up cloth, lets say 2kg max, ideally less than 1cm deformation at both edges.
>>
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How would you proceed to make aluminium powder and rust in a DIY proportion?
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>>3008513
Bleach and iron filings for the rust, soda cans and an industrial blender for the aluminum
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>>3008515
>Bleach and iron filings for the rust

So something that's been bugging me... There's an old fart machinist guy on Jewtoob that made a video about preventing rust in the workshop and he talks about not having any acids in the workshop (of course) and also about making a solution out of lye and water to wipe onto the surfaces of the steel because the basic properties of it protect the steel underneath and if any water does get on it then it will prevent it from rusting. Then he goes on to say don't mop the floors with bleach because it will rust everything in the shop...

Wait a fucking minute, isn't bleach basic as hell? Why does it cause rusting if it is a base? Chlorine gas I guess? Wtf man.
>>
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>>3008536
Per Wikipedia:

Chlorine is a yellow-green gas at room temperature. It is an extremely reactive element and a strong ***oxidising*** agent: among the elements, it has the highest electron affinity and the third-highest electronegativity on the revised Pauling scale, behind only oxygen and fluorine.
>>
>>3008536
It oxidizes like mad
>>
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while removing paint from the window frames, noticed a lot of the wood has blackened and softened

am i fucked or is this still repairable by a retard(me)
>>
Whatever happened to Seeker threads on /diy/?
>>
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>300855won
>trolling outside of /b/
>>
>>3008551
I wonder if Doug is still making weak "men" seethe by using an angle grinder without a guard...
>>
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could i make a security camera chandelier like this by gorilla glueing the cameras on?
>>
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Is it safe to paint over this hardwood fence with these lichen remains on it?
>>
>>3008551
seems he dropped off the face of the planet once the boat finished, i completely forgot it even existed even though i watched a lot of the videos.
>>
>>3008442
Thank you. I assembled it without the spider and washer. I used the see through things on top of the black cone.

If its wrong who knows it works
>>
>>3008556
Safe, sure

Adhere properly, possibly not

Bleach and let dry first
>>
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the front porch light is flickering, i tried cleaning the socket little tab, and then the flickering went from really really fast to like very slow 2 seconds on 6 seconds off flickering.
I suspect (with claude's help) it is either the socket is bust, or the switch was poorly done during a remodel.
Naively i was just wanting to replace this socket and see if that fixed it, but i can't really figure out how to disassemble it or get the socket out. I have turned the appropriate breaker off and taken the sconce off the wall now, but looking for some direction to get this socket replaced.
>>
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>>3008595
>>
Looks like it is a motion detecting porch light and the slow flashing might just be the test mode ? The manual also has some crap about auto turning off during the daylight, so i may need to wait until dark to see if its staying on properly
My current guess is initial fast flickering was bad bulb connection, and new slow flickering is just the test mode i was unaware of, thanks for listening
>>
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Turns out I should have taken a picture of how it was wired before i disconnected the wires, cause now I'm not really sure how to reconnect them
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>>
What is the difference between LoRa and 802.11 HALOW for meshtastic purposes? I understand that there is a bandwith difference but can I just re-tool a 915 MHz radio to shoot either?

I built a few functions on my Pi for LoRa but I am unsure how that transfers over if I switched. /g/ doesnt care about amateur radio.
>>
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How do I restore this? It's inox
>>
>>3008448
Yeesh, pretty precise stuff. I'd try curtain rail, but you might need something more specialised with an angle cross section.
>>
>>3008600
>>3008599
Generally, it is white to white, black to black, and bare to ground. Red is normally used for things like multi-way switches. If you have the manual it should tell you what the red is for. I suspect it might be for activating/power additional lights in a chain so that you only need one motion sensor.

>>3008612
You clean it and polish it. Get a polish that is suitable for inox or stainless steel and follow its instructions.
>>
>>3008623
yeah i believe the red is for an optional additional light so ill just ignore it for now (which agrees with the warning label on the red wire
But i just did white to white, black to black, ground to ground and when i turned it on the light was just flickering faster and buzzing even which i read was bad so i disconnected it all and have left the breaker off
I'm frustrated but appreciate the help
>>
>>3008018
Your house is obviously haunted. Call a priest.
>>
Is Hougen a good brand for mag drills? I need one and someone is selling a used one near me for $500.
>>
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>>3008685
depends what you need to do
and they have a ton of models
hougens run rotabroaches really well but dont have much throat for reaching out from where you have it magged down
and some dont have much room under the spindle to run a chuck and regular drills. idk if they all have reverse to tap with either
and having an independent floating body to fine tune the position like the big milwaukee is nice
and if youre gonna run rotabroaches over 1 1/2 you should find a power feed model
>>
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>>3008685
>>3008686
dis lil niggas my most used magger but its too way to burn up drill motors on
its sure nice to be able to hang 1 handed vs the back ache of the fatass big milwaukee
i almost bought one of the pancake hougens to do a sleeve job on a truck frame stretch but didnt love the proprietary twist lock rotabroaches and no drill chuck
>>
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>overseeded last week & now the big dead dirt patch in my lawn is full of grass sprouts
it feels so good, bros
>>
>>3008595
>flashing

try it using an old incandescent bulb, not an LED lamp or the spiral (compact fluorescent) ones
old fixtures need old lamps
>>
>>3008747
:0 wish i had the patience to wait for this advice, I just bought a new fixture and chucked the old one. maybe i dig it out of the trash, likely not
>>
2 questions

1) what is the best type of brush to clean stainless steel?

2) Whats the best way to de-rust steel/metal? If I just soak them in vinegar, it seems to work but leaves a bit liquid film on the part that still has some rust on it. Ive heard electrosys(sp), but it seems kinda scary and hard to setup.
>>
>>3008978
>Whats the best way to de-rust steel/metal?
Enormous question. Really depends what your specific situation is. Sandblasting works great but probably isn't practical.
What rust removing chemicals are available in hardware stores near you?
>>
>>3008980
Im in the US, major city, so I assume a decently wide variety. I dont have the $$ by any specific machines, but i could pick up a few chemicals if needed
>>
>>3008990
phosphoric acid aka parkerizing solution
homeless despot sells something canned metal prep and etch thats basically phosphoric acid plus a wetting agent for $20/gal which does a shitload
>>
>>3008109
Coil cleaning spray. Used to clean the coils on AC units.
>>
>>3008978
>Whats the best way to de-rust steel/metal?
Evaporust. Even Harbor Freight carries it.
>>
>>3008555
"Art"



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