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File: gudnuff.jpg (39 KB, 636x566)
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questions that dont deserve a new thread

a place for retards to converse

thread theme: shitty fixes

old thread >>3002637
>>
I want to use this to spray condensed water from my mini split onto the condenser coil.
>>
>>3007680
To what end?
>>
>>3007681
Look at it logically.
>>
>>3007682
Go float your ass through another hurricane Halsey you dumb shit. Bring your reductive reasoning with you.
>>
>>3007680
ACs generally don't make enough water to do much of any anything to cool the coils. All you'll have done is add something that requires power and maintenance with little benefit.
>>
File: 1761920385042607.png (72 KB, 381x254)
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>swimming pool was resurfaced w/ aggregate finish
>brush daily, add 3 ppm of chlorine, balance pH daily
>T+5 weeks
>looking a bit foggy, no visible algae tho
>guess I'll go and shock it for good measure
>add 25 ppm worth of chlorine at night
>test it in the morning
>0 ppm FC
>okay I guess
>add another 25 ppm
>test in 2 hours
>2 ppm
>what the fug
>add yet another 25 ppm worth
>test again in 2 hours
>22 ppm
What is my swimming pool guzzling my chlorine like a whore? Phosphates? A phantom algae bloom?
>>
>>3007681
To precool the air cooling the condenser coil.
>>
>>3007744
I'm not a pool guy. Are you using stabilizer tablets? Is your filter clean? Do you have any leaks around the skimmer or drain? Did you have the emergency popup valve on the bottom of the pool replaced? Are any valves stuck halfway?
>>
>>3007744
You didn't let another anon look after your pool recently, did you?
>>
i just got a job working with a bunch of 20-25year olds and theyre all fucking slackers who avoid difficult/monotonous tasks that still need to get done and sit on their phone whenever management is not around. theres this very well mannered 80's style fratboy richboy trope who just does the rudest shit like volunteering others for shitwork. then theres one girl here who just shuts up and works. and then they also hired a very knowledgeable retiree age guy to work with us and he just talks and talks and talks and when he finally shuts up to work, he falls asleep a few minutes later, LMAO i just started so ima just shut up and work. maybe send my boss an email askingg if he can get me out on projects/activities where i can learn career relevant shit since i spend so much time doing the shit work instead of poking around for the 'fun work'

thoughts?
>>
>>3007766
Shut up and keep your head down.
>>
>>3007766
Welcome to the wonderful world of work.
>>
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>>3007766
Sounds a lot like my first job except smart phones were still 20 years away and people still drank beer during lunch. Shit ain't changed, really. Hell, one of the guys I worked with became a friend. He started his own business some years back. We were at a mutual friends birthday party and he was talking shit about one of his employees falling asleep during some downtime and being a crotchety old boomer about it. Once he was finished I told everyone about how he used to nap in a utility closet multiple times a week because he would come to work hung over all the time. He did this for years. You gotta keep people humble or their ego takes over after a certain point. They get rose tinted glasses and forget how things actually were. Then they start drinking their own kool-aid about how they actually got through life. Ain't no one in their 20s not slacking off at some point. Ain't no one in their 50s either. Any boss that claims they worked every minute of every shift is a lying sack of shit or a literal psychopath. Try that shit as a normal human being and you'll burn out like a lit fart.

Do your job, put in the effort, and let your bosses know you want to move forward in your career. Don't worry about how much or how little anyone else is doing unless they are actively fucking with you or trying to scrape their shit onto your plate and have you clean it up. Not everyone is doing what they want to do or even in a company that will give them the opportunity to do what they want to do. Many, if not most, people are just there to collect a pay check. That is fine and not your problem. Just make sure you are in a company that will actually value your contributions and give your the opportunities you are looking for. If they don't or won't, well, just collect your paycheck and keep applying to jobs that will.
>>
>>3007771
>Once he was finished I told everyone about how he used to nap in a utility closet multiple times a week because he would come to work hung over all the time. He did this for years.

ive never had a job where anyone could do this. i actually once got extremely drunk the night before a shift where my
boss told me i would just need to open the shop up for some subcontractors and then close up a few hours later. i had a small to do list and then struggled with it at the end of my shift, :p
>>
>>3007766
>thoughts?
The "ladder" is an illusion.
The job is hiring 20 year old girls and old ass men.
There is nowhere to move up, you exist *explicitly* to do the shit work. Thats why they hired the likes of you and the others.

You begging the boss for more work?
Youll get more work, more responsibilities and duties, more hardship with no more pay and nothing to show for it.

Good little worker bee bossman will exploit to the fullest extent.

Your next employer when you jump ship wont give a flying fuck whether you only did the work asked of you vs you working yourself into the ground for no reason.

Its not the 40s, you dont work yourself out of the mailroom into a well paying career with a pension.
>>
>>3007775
Big company, white collar job in an office building. We started in the 'services' department. Basically, we were dogsbodies, gophers, bitch boys. Whatever needed doing that wasn't part of someone's job description went to us. Bet you didn't have that at your job either? Being able to tell someone with a straight face that it wasn't part of your job description and that you couldn't do it. Bosses wouldn't even ask you. They knew what you were paid to do and what you weren't. They were serious about it too. You couldn't hang a fucking picture in your office or even move furniture around. That was a maintenance job to drive that nail or move that desk. If you did it you'd get shit. If you did it and hurt yourself they would contest your Workman's comp and write you up. If you hurt someone else they would fire you. You'd call maintenance, tell them what you needed, and they would decide if it needed an actual professional (shitter's clogged) or a bitch boy (40 reams of paper were delivered and needed to get distributed to all the office copiers). They would call us for the latter. Or the mail room would call and say a bunch of odd sized packages that wouldn't fit in the mail cart had arrived (if it didn't fit in the cart the mail room wouldn't deliver it) and needed to go to the 4th floor. Or the warehouse would call and say they needed someone getting paid peanuts to come break down a bunch of shipping crates so the real employees wouldn't be wasting their time. Or there was a big meeting this afternoon and they needed several catering plates picked up from a local restaurant. Bitch boy stuff.

That also meant that we were unsupervised a lot of the time and had down time fairly often. Sometimes it was a fucking madhouse too. If someone didn't check in for an hour or two it wasn't that noticeable and we covered (lied) for each other. You know how TV shows always have secretaries reading magazines or people dipping into closest to fuck? That kind of place.
>>
>>3007779
what year was this? boomer 80s? what was the pay? i can see a job like this paying a few bucks above min wage out here ...seems like amazon style management is phasing out low-wage slacker jobs
>>
>>3007785
It was the summer of '85. I was 20 when I started. I had gotten an Associates Degree in Computer Information Systems and was all hot to trot. Not a lot of job openings for that in a flyover state at the time. I was getting $3.50 an hour, just above minimum wage. It was full time though, so I jumped at it. I think McDonald's was paying more but their schedules were dogshit.

I've worked a ton of different jobs since. I did eventually end up in IT but it took a few years. Some jobs are still like it was when I was a kid. Like the one I am in now. Some are nose to the fucking grindstone, go go go, all day every day. It depends on the culture. A lot of smaller companies I've worked at were hungry. High pressure, always on, no schedule. You never knew what you were doing next until something caught fire. Sometimes it was because they were a startup and trying to look like hot shit so someone would buy them up. Other times it was because management was drinking the Steve Jobs kool-aid and thought that being an asshole was required. Other times it was because the company just couldn't pay the bills unless they were riding everyone and pinching every penny. No matter what, my goal was always to get a better job somewhere else. Either though acquisition or transition to another employer.

Probably my best job was a stint at HP back in the mid 90s and early aughts. It was sweet. Great pay, *great* benefits (nothing comes close except Google at its peak benefits era, but for HP it was Tuesday, not a high point), great people, steady work, doing cool things, making good products. When Fiorina took over it went south in a hurry. I was caught up in the layoffs she used to justify her 4 million dollar a year salary. Then I worked for hungry startups for a few years and took a few years off after a few of them paid out but also because the great recession hit.
>>
>>3007793
Part II
I got back into things doing contract IT work. Miserable. Got treated like ditch digger by fuckwits. It had its moments. Had one corporate shitstain chew me out for skipping a kick off meeting that had nothing to do with me. Out in the open in front of everyone no less. I handed him my card, told him to have his boss call me, and walked. His boss called me, I explained what happened, and told him he either reigns in Bill Belichick, Jr. or he gets someone else to do the job. He promised it wouldn't happen again. A week later it happened again. I walked out and called the dudes boss on the way home. I told him the contract was null, cited the clause, and gave him the number of my lawyer if he wanted to discuss it. I then called up one of the people on my waiting list that needed some easy stuff done and told them I had a few days free. The pay was good and I could schedule my own vacations but I tired of being my own boss. It is a lot of paperwork, bullshit, quoting, inventory, and running around. IE real work. It was always shit work too. Network tear outs, migrations, upgrades of old cheap shit that should have been retired years ago to new cheap shit that should never have been purchased.

I eventually got back into a salaried position doing IT for a business. It was fine but nothing special. Did that for 2-3 years and then went to work for a university. Low pressure but skilled work. Some days it is fixing a printer, others it is upgrading the network backbone to support a new mainframe. If you think business hold on to old shit, jesus. We have a climate controlled room that stores backups going all the way back to the 1970s when they were still reel-to-reel and some IBM big iron running z/OS that shipped during Obama's first term. That said, the big stuff is always on the calendar months out and the little stuff is easy. The only time I do helpdesk stuff is when there is literally nothing else for me to do or the queue is backed up.
>>
OK, here's my question.
I'm enrolled in a apprenticeship course at my college (there's no community college that does free/minimal cost courses like in the US) so I used my RESP savings to attend and pay off my student debt fully.
I did my first 8 week coursework, and passed my final exam.
Naturally their website is so shitty that I can't view my final exam grades, or any of my fucking grades because they're unmarked, so I have no idea on what the status of my course is.
Why the fuck are colleges in Canada so fucking inept? Same shit with universities by extension, it feels like they're for-profit but raped by government red tape so they cannot effectively operate as a business and instead have to do bullshit like exclude people paying for their tuition in full because their GPA isn't high enough, have convoluted bullshit around apprenticeship certification and a confusing program that demands work hours while paying for education, etc.
This shit is all retarded, I get that public education has to be regulated since everyone attends, but these are for-profits and are simultaneously incredibly restrictive, and unable to maintain basic features of their service (student support, grading, their website portals, etc).
Maybe I'm in over my head, but this shit pisses me off, if its clearly for-profit and taking your tuition money to provide a service, why does there have to be so much bullshit involved?
Outside of gatekeeping/useless workers (office/HR ones) justifying their job, I can't think of anything else.
>>
>>3007864
Do people working at schools make good money? No. So why would you assume they have the best people working at them? The best you are going to get is some of the people are there for the joy of it and also happen to be good at their jobs. The rest are there either because they have no better options or they love the work but aren't actually that good at it.

Double that at a for profit place.

>why does there have to be so much bullshit involved?
My tradie friends say that the building codes were written in blood. Someone, somewhere fucked up enough that the government caught wind of it and drafted rules for them. This does not happen to industries that run smoothly and have no problems. All you ever hear about is shit like "programmers can't call themselves Software Engineers in Texas because of some bullshit rule. Why would they even have a rule like that?" Picture related. The Texas Engineering Practice Act restricts who can call themselves an 'engineer' after some shithead calling himself an 'engineer' fucked up a gas line installation and blew up a fucking school. I'd bet money on any government red tape being in place because of lawsuit or public outcry after something like that.
>>
>>3007869
>My tradie friends say that the building codes were written in blood. Someone, somewhere fucked up enough that the government caught wind of it and drafted rules for them.
This is fine, some regulation is required
it's just that the resulting regulation is so retarded and rapey instead of following common sense just to justify someone's job that drives me up the wall.
Using insurance as a example, why the fuck are insurance jews allowed to drive rates up to exorbitant prices, but can't deny people service based on their ethnicity, skin color, etc if they know that population is more predisposed to getting into harm or doing retarded shit more often?
In Canada, insurance here for new drivers is 400$/mo, going up to 600$/mo because of how the driving schools are owned by migrants, who do fraud (especially on CDL licenses), and never get punished or fined for it because that'd be racist.
The precedent is that everyone is remotely racist to some degree against the flood to indians who physically smell like human shit (or obnoxious amounts of spice and cologne), but cannot do anything or act on it because it's socially taboo.
Which brings me back to my apprenticeship, despite paying for my education and passing the course, i still need to have "practical experience" for the 3rd and 4th year which is ridiculous, because I'd rather just pay for the courses, finish them and pass, and then find work.
All of this "earn while learning" stuff is bullshit marketing because nobody wants to onboard a apprentice until they've had 2-3+ years of experience, but to get that experience you need to already be a apprentice with a company.
>>
>>3007873
>All of this "earn while learning" stuff is bullshit
that is the way you actually learn. while most employers just give you bitch work and call it learning, you only gain real knowledge by doing the work. a school won't give you a feel for when an oil filter is seated correctly vs crossthreaded, you gotta learn that the hard way by spraying oil all over the shop floor. just about everything i know about my job i learned by fighting with against it till i found a way that doesn't suck or watching some grey beard do it the easy way. you only go to school to learn the code cuz no employer is going to pay a jman to teach you building code and you can't trust people to read it on their own time.
>>
>>3007680
Just find an old AC manual and look into making a water cooled condenser housing.
Also, "Enjoy your calcium/mineral build up on the condenser".
>>
File: 1765040801917271.jpg (84 KB, 1000x750)
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Anyone knows where I can find picrel (the cable adapter), preferably with detachable cable? Yes, for Parkside x20v tools.
>>
>>3007899
did you look on amazon? we have battery adapters for everything to everything in US. we don't have parkside though and i don't want to change my region to check for you
does it have to be cabled?
also that's a heat gun. I've tried to run my plug-in heat gun on a m18->outlet adapter and it couldn't handle the draw
>>
>>3007904
>*Pic for illustrative purposes only*
Yes, there's plenty adapters for hooking 3rd party batteries directly (e.g., from another thread: https://powertoolsadapters.com), but through a cable i couldn't find much and only for the battery, not the part that connects to the tool, not for Parkside. This one was on a local site, but it's no longer available.
>>
>>3007907
>does it have to be cabled?
>>
fixing and repainting my window frames
are there any good drill or grinder attackments that makes scraping old paint faster than handing scraping it (took me a day to scrape off half the window frame)
>>
>>3007911
Yeah, that's the whole point of it: being able to hang the battery on your belt/wall, or keep it on the bench, etc., instead of it just weighing down the tool. Heck, even connect the tool to a power supply.
>>
File: wifi power delivery.jpg (72 KB, 614x501)
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>>3007911
>>does it have to be cabled?

i tried wifi power delivery but it was a kinda weak
good enough for an anal tickler but not enough to drill a hole
>>
>>3007919
Yeah, sanding discs.
>>
that lowkey works though
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>>3007921
i mean you're looking for a cabled battery adapter, why not just get the cheap heat gun you can plug into an extension cord?
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>>3007893
>"Enjoy your calcium/mineral build up on the condenser
Condensed water is distilled water.
>>
File: IMG20260913113256 - Copy.jpg (789 KB, 1061x1541)
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What do I even fill this with?
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>>3007958
It's going to be full of all the shit in the plenum of your air handler, and others pointed out "You're not going to produce enough water", you mong.
>>
I have a water main leaking underneath my house slab somewhere. What do I need to know for this?
I saw water trickling out of my garage this morning and immediately turned it off. I called a big box plumbing service who sent a guy out, he cut the wall where my main goes under the slab from the service junction and said the water is backflowing up to this point, so it's somewhere under the house.

He ordered a sonic leak testing guy to come out but since it's the weekend he can't make it until tomorrow morning, and the actual work probably won't happen until Monday. Til then I have my water shut off and I'm only turning it on to take a shit.
What do I need to know about this situation to not get fucked by the plumbers and to fix it correctly? I have about $10k to sink into this, the house is 22 years old so I don't mind replacing a longer section of pipe.
>>
>>3007986
>What do I even fill this with?

pretty straightforward
remove all rotten wood
replace with non-rotten wood
dont treat it as cosmetic surgery, it's major league tear-down and replace
coz rot never subsides, it only grows like cancer
and the solution to cancer is always:
CUT IT OUT
CUT IT ALL OUT
>>
>>3007998
>only have 10k to spend
get a written bid before committing to anything
plumbing is notoriously assrape and pipes buried in concrete are not going to be cheap by any standard
>>
>>3008010
This. When my old pipes started to go in my place we just abandoned them in the slab and re-ran everything in the attic. That way I only had to cut some holes in the drywall in a few places that were mostly under sinks to put in new supply lines. The killer was the showers and bathtubs. It was easier to cut holes in the stucco to access the pipes through the exterior walls then remove tile. Stucco is easy to match compared to tile.
>>
>>3007998
i'm a service plumber and deal with this regularly, my area is mostly 30-50 yr old copper homes so...
I'll share my standard experience:
>slab leak
leak detection to minimize demo, restoring demo is expensive; especially in house with tile, cabinets, wood flooring, w/e; not to mention concrete
>leak detection identifies spot X
ok. slab leak repair starts at 1.8k. that covers a 12x12 square of standard depth and pinhole repair (normal)
is there a footer? another 600$
was leak detection off and I have to chase pipe? another $500 a foot
I give all this upfront
though know, if your piping is starting to fail you should expect it to be a reoccuring instance over the following years
if this pipe installed the same time as all your other pipe and experiencing the same water has corroded...
do you have home insurance? they will contrast this repair with a repipe cost
I will work up a repipe estimate
essentially $450 per 'drop' for attic run pex. bathroom sink, 2 drops, shower, 2 drops, toilet 1 drop; etc
repipe for standard family home 8-14k
if you want we can do the slab repair right now, i've set expectations
permiting for a repipe can take up to 2 weeks
>>
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>>3008013
Does anyone even do copper for residential anymore or is it all just PEX? I hate PEX and sharkbite shit. Years of rentals and horror stories between myself and friends where every few years half your shit would get ruined because the PEX repair of a PEX repair of a PEX repair failed. I lived in a place where they replaced the same fucking pipe three times. The original post 2000s copper 'pipe' was really more like Chinese copper foil and only lasted a decade. They replaced it with PEX, which failed (split along its length). They replaced that with more PEX, which failed at the connectors. First at one end, then the other. What do I have to do to get water pipes that aren't shit? Go back to wood, cable, and beeswax?
>>
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>>3008007
I think I got it all. Ended up using a die grinder to carve away all the soft and discolored wood. Then absolutely drenched it in timber preservative.

I hate this fucking house, the old owners put the concrete render directly on the old weatherboard cladding. It makes it impossible to properly inspect the wood for rot. I think Im going to replace all the windows with aluminum and re-clad the house once I have the funds.
>>
>>3007942
he wants portability probably?
>>
>>3008013
Thanks for the response. When the guy showed up he told me I had high water pressure and I should have had a pressure reducing valve. I had a bathroom pipe bust about a year ago and got that fixed.
But this is what I'm afraid of is that the whole house is fucked. It's 22 years old, 2 issues in two years and who knows what the previous owner dealt with. I appreciate your estimates on those prices. I'll have to see what the sonic testing turns up tomorrow.
>>
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>>3007919
Used a sanding disc, less effort than manually scraping it. Wondering if an orbital sander is worth grabbing if i still have 5 windows like these to do. Also advice on the remaining bits on corners
>>
>>3008018
>timber preservative
Looks like farm diesel. What is that stuff?
>>
>>3008031
>What is that stuff?
Its Koppers frame saver, a boron-based wood preservative.
>>
What is the correct way to install siding on this angle? I cant see how to do it without sacrificing most of the nail strip or most of the flange.
>>
>>3008014
uponor pex has a 25 year warranty on their pipes/connections that covers any consequential damage
if you're using knockoff brands, such as what is available at home depot, that is an issue
>>
>>3008084
Are you using an undersill?
>>
>>3008087
My house's pipes are 75 year old galvanized steel with some cooper additions that were put in back in the 1970s... when the water heater was last replaced. It turned 53 in April and only leaks a little bit. 46,000 BTU to heat 30 US gallons for a 38.7 GPH recovery rate.

I dread having to replace anything because I can't find anything locally that isn't dogshit. I tried to special order a water valve for my washer because no one out here stocks anything for copper anymore. Let me tell you what a fucking chore that was. Everything is fucking Chinese now. Every time I would call a place they would be like "Sure we have that! Oh, wait, you are in California? Sorry, our brass has TOO MUCH LEAD IN IT to be shipped there." I ended up using a compression fitting type that wasn't intended for washers. It looks completely different than the cold water valve and messes with my OCD every time I look at it.
>>
>>3008091
unfortunately they don't make anything as good as they used to. if you replace that water heater with a new one like it you'll be lucky if it gets a quarter of the life
unfortunately you still will have to at some point
75 year old galvy is a miracle it isn't leaking already and repairs on that are more expensive than copper
it's going to have to be addressed at some point
sucks we live in a world where the only materials are worse now, but new worse materials is better than old failing materials

if you're aesthetic, and on gas, tankless water heater is probably the better choice when replacing
it's more upfront but will likely last longer if flushed yearly (have them install service valves)
uponor pex is the only practical option for an affordable repipe, just make sure they're using the name brand with the warranty and it's something they regularly do and have a reputation
if you just hire a cheap smhuck they'll just file bankruptcy before helping you with a problem like that
>>
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How can I clean the condenser of my tumble dryer? Pic is after vacuuming. The usual advice given online is "soft brush", but the lint is caked on and won't budge. Any chemical I could spray it with?
>>
Anybody ever use any of that concrete busting expandable foam stuff? Was looking at the Dexpan brand. It’s rolled say it works great for busting slabs and rocks. I’ve got some 1’ thick reinforced concrete piers I need to bust into smaller chunks. Drilling a few SDS holes seems a lot easier than demo sawing every piece
>>
>>3008127
drill a line of holes close to each other and then hit it with a sledgehammer
>>
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>>3008127
You can rent a breaker for $140 a day.
>>
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I have a number of 35mm point and shoot film cameras in various states of repair. I want to fix them and sell them. It's easy to test the operation of the flash, shutter and winding mechanisms, but is there an easy way to test that the cameras can take photos? I've thought about buying some cheap bulk black and white film, then just cutting a few frames feeding the film into an empty cartridge, then shoot and develop the film, rinse and repeat until all issues are solved. Is there a more modern way to do this? Have they made tools or devices to test cameras like this? TIA.
>>
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I was just given some machines for free. I don't have any experience making things or using power tools like this. But assuming I have a good supply of hand tools and no other power tools (besides cordless drill) what kind out trouble can I make with these? Anything cool to do with these or should I just sell them to some Mexicans on craigslist?
>>
Just the thread I was looking for. Got an old lady who had her AC take a shit over the summer, who had it removed, and hasn't replaced it. Winter is coming, and she still has the damn thru-wall AC sleeve unfilled, and we have a tendency to get get -30 Fahrenheit temps in the middle of winter.

Was thinking of getting some insulboard rated at R-10, cutting out 3 inserts of it at the same dimension of the sleeve minus a smidge, then facing taping the shit out of it. This retarded, or is there a more proper way to do this?
>>
>>3008171
replace the AC?
>>
>>3008141
i'd probably just clean them up the best you can and just sell them as-is.
the kinds of people that buy this kinda crap are willing to troubleshoot their own problems.
>>
>>3008175
also it probably goes without saying but take good pictures of them before you post them and list known issues or people asking for refunds will murder your profits.
>>
>>3008168
With those three tools you can cut some wood, sand it down to look pretty, and drill perfectly straight holes into them. If you're not creative enough to think of what you can do with that then that's your problem.
>>
>>3008168
>Central Machinery
>Ryobi
>micro scale
You might get $35 for all of those together.
>>
>>3008168
Those little 1x30 belt sanders kick ass for sharpening knives if you know what you're doing. Can also take off too much metal real fast if you don't know what you are doing.
>>
>>3008191
What if I put my penis on one BUT I'm not circumsized?
>>
>>3007998
Follow up to this - the leak detection showed it was under my garage slab. We decided to abandon that segment and reroute through the attic. Everything is all good now but when going back through photos from the service guy I noticed the pipe is laying directly on the thin edge of a metal connector plate for a truss. There's no way this is good right? I think I'm going to call them back out to affix this properly.
>>
>>3008199
Do you want to become circumsized? That might be one way to do it...

>>3008220
Yeah I'd slip a hose over that or affix it to the wooden truss with a EMT conduit bracket or something along those lines.
>>
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Are there any stores like Radio Shack in central europe? Germany specifically
I know you can get everything online nowadays, probably way cheaper even, but I yearn for the sensation and spectacle of being surrounded by circuitry and exposed copper, technology that is not meant to be consumed, but to be used and transformed
Those places are almost extinct afaik and the last place I went to that had that 14 years ago was a big "Conrad" near my home town.
I even went to visit it recently (4 years ago) and saw only an abandoned building with the brand logo still intact. I shed a single tear seeing those halls without light.
>>
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What do you think about using a mini split to collect pure water in an off grid or emergency situation?
>>
>>3008248
I don't think it would collect enough to cover the entire amount of water you could need to drink in a day but it could supplement things. It is basically distilled. The hard part it keeping the contamination out of it from being collected from a non-sterile environment. Of course, that is what water filters are for. Those should always be in your emergency kit even if it is a little bugout bag.
>>
>>3008254
On a humid day I was filling one of those coffee cans every two hours and that was indoor air. If I kept the doors and windows open to harvest more moisture it would probably be even more.
>>
>>3007763
lol the other guy that forgot to put the filter in
>>
>>3008248
I'd worry about lead contamination.
>>
>>3008248
A typical adult male should drink about a gallon of water a day. Or 3.8 liters. If that can is a large coffee can (about 7 inches high, 4 inches in diameter) that is about half of what you should be drinking a day. So you would need two of them a day per adult male. That is assuming light work and not very much sweating.
>>
>>3008295
What if I substitute a couple cups of coffee, about 3-4 beers, a monster energy drink and maybe a powerade in there too?
>>
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I am retarded and trying to assembly this lamp fixture.

I have it mostly done but:

Whats the metal 3leg pronged thing for?
Whats the tho plastic see through bits for? They seem to screw together.
In the bottom right, the round cap, that has two screws what are they for? One seems to be an adjustment but not sure.
Do I need the ground wire (eu) it broke cos its cheap
>>
Clear things are a gland/strain relief for the cord to pass through that hole in the metal more than likely. Did it not come with assembly instructions?
>>
>>3008295
With how much creatine powder?
>>
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My office has some kind of wood or floating wood floor similar to pic related. I'm a rentoid, so I have no idea what it actually is.
My office chair and other things have left some kind of residue on the floor, kind of like rubber from sneaker soles or some kind of random gunk trampled solid.
Now I am wondering how I can remove that shit again. I don't want to crawl around on all fours and scratch it off with my fingernails, but I also can't just douse everything with some strong cleaning solution because, well, swelling and warping are not nice if I want to use this and get my deposit back eventually.
I already thought about using some kind of brush, but I don't want to test a million brushes until I find one that is stiff enough to properly clean and soft enough to not scratch everything up.
Am I overthinking this or are there any actual pro strats for approaching this?
>>
I have a question about how the water softener might be piped into my house... If I go out to my water softener and close the inlet/outlet valves on the water softener, my house still gets water. So where is that soft water actually going and how does my house go back to getting soft water just because I opened it back up?

The technician tried explaining it to me but I just didn't understand. He was talking about reverse manifolds or something. I'm just not understanding how the house suddenly switches back and forth between soft water just because of those two in/out valves...
>>
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>>3008380
I didn't do a good job of describing my question.
My old water softener was entirely disconnected, pulled off the piping yesterday. But I was still getting water to my kitchen sink.
So this MUST mean there is some sort of bypass around the softener, which means there is a mixing point downstream where both paths meet.
What controls this mixing point to make sure that once I open the softener back up, I'm not just getting straight hard water still? What forces the flow through the softener?
>>
>>3008381
There's probably a pressure relief valve at the inlet side in case the softener gets clogged/shut off. Back pressure increases, opens the valve, goes through the bypass section, and then a 1 way check valve at the outlet.
>>
>>3008381
Have you tried letting it run for a bit? It might just be left over water in the system. Just that sink or the whole house? I have seen places that specifically didn't soften the water going to the main sink for some reason. Find your main shutoff and follow that pipe until it gets to the softener. If there is a bypass or something like that it will be somewhere along there.
>>
>>3008412
retard
>>3008422
retard
>>3008381
nobody can tell you shit without actual images of your pipes

decent filtration systems have built in bypass units where you can turn two valves or push a bar on the unit to decide if it is going through the unit or going around
>>
>>3007669
any resources or pointers on how to design good lighting for a new construction? I'm designing the plan for my future tiny house, and I have little to no idea on how to do it.
same for running water + sewage lines
>>
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>>3008304
Yes - that makes sense. The diameter doent seem to match anything ni ely though.
>>
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>>3008300
>Whats the metal 3leg pronged thing for?
could be to keep bulb/socket in place so it doesnt touch the sides.
>Whats the tho plastic see through bits for? They seem to screw together.
joiners or cord flex protector
>In the bottom right, the round cap, that has two screws what are they for? One seems to be an adjustment but not sure.
other side of long tube maybe, threaded onto the silver threads.
>Do I need the ground wire (eu) it broke cos its cheap
if it is not double shielded then you could zap yourself if there is a short circuit or whatever.
your photos suck ass, do you not know what it is meant to look like?
>>
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>>3008436
maybe
>>
>>3007669
need a rigid 3.5m small diameter 'rod', that barely bends when held in the middle by something like 0.5m wide. i was thinking stainless steel curtain rail, but you guys might have something better?
>>
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>>3007669
What are some lightweight software options for modeling construction and furniture projects? Are there any tools specific to electrical systems, gas pipes, water pipes, etc.? My main objectives are to:
>digitally reconstruct my house, coarsely for now but eventually down to the placement and variety of nails used
>design workshop furniture, e.g. workbenches and equipment racks
>explore possible room layouts for furniture and equipment
I also have a 3D printer that I'll be learning to use in the near future; I've asked /3dpg/ about their CAD suggestions towards that end for my antique hardware.

I'm using a Linux laptop from 2012:
>ThinkPad T430
>OS: Linux Mint
>CPU: Intel i5-3320M (4) @ 3.300GHz
>GPU: Intel 3rd Gen Core processor Graphics Controller
>Memory: 16GB DDR3
>>
>>3008443
How little deformation, under what strain?
>>
>>3008447
basically no strain, holding up cloth, lets say 2kg max, ideally less than 1cm deformation at both edges.
>>
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How would you proceed to make aluminium powder and rust in a DIY proportion?
>>
>>3008513
Bleach and iron filings for the rust, soda cans and an industrial blender for the aluminum
>>
>>3008515
>Bleach and iron filings for the rust

So something that's been bugging me... There's an old fart machinist guy on Jewtoob that made a video about preventing rust in the workshop and he talks about not having any acids in the workshop (of course) and also about making a solution out of lye and water to wipe onto the surfaces of the steel because the basic properties of it protect the steel underneath and if any water does get on it then it will prevent it from rusting. Then he goes on to say don't mop the floors with bleach because it will rust everything in the shop...

Wait a fucking minute, isn't bleach basic as hell? Why does it cause rusting if it is a base? Chlorine gas I guess? Wtf man.
>>
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>>3008536
Per Wikipedia:

Chlorine is a yellow-green gas at room temperature. It is an extremely reactive element and a strong ***oxidising*** agent: among the elements, it has the highest electron affinity and the third-highest electronegativity on the revised Pauling scale, behind only oxygen and fluorine.
>>
>>3008536
It oxidizes like mad
>>
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while removing paint from the window frames, noticed a lot of the wood has blackened and softened

am i fucked or is this still repairable by a retard(me)
>>
Whatever happened to Seeker threads on /diy/?
>>
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>300855won
>trolling outside of /b/
>>
>>3008551
I wonder if Doug is still making weak "men" seethe by using an angle grinder without a guard...
>>
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could i make a security camera chandelier like this by gorilla glueing the cameras on?
>>
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Is it safe to paint over this hardwood fence with these lichen remains on it?
>>
>>3008551
seems he dropped off the face of the planet once the boat finished, i completely forgot it even existed even though i watched a lot of the videos.
>>
>>3008442
Thank you. I assembled it without the spider and washer. I used the see through things on top of the black cone.

If its wrong who knows it works
>>
>>3008556
Safe, sure

Adhere properly, possibly not

Bleach and let dry first
>>
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the front porch light is flickering, i tried cleaning the socket little tab, and then the flickering went from really really fast to like very slow 2 seconds on 6 seconds off flickering.
I suspect (with claude's help) it is either the socket is bust, or the switch was poorly done during a remodel.
Naively i was just wanting to replace this socket and see if that fixed it, but i can't really figure out how to disassemble it or get the socket out. I have turned the appropriate breaker off and taken the sconce off the wall now, but looking for some direction to get this socket replaced.
>>
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>>3008595
>>
Looks like it is a motion detecting porch light and the slow flashing might just be the test mode ? The manual also has some crap about auto turning off during the daylight, so i may need to wait until dark to see if its staying on properly
My current guess is initial fast flickering was bad bulb connection, and new slow flickering is just the test mode i was unaware of, thanks for listening
>>
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Turns out I should have taken a picture of how it was wired before i disconnected the wires, cause now I'm not really sure how to reconnect them
>>
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>>
What is the difference between LoRa and 802.11 HALOW for meshtastic purposes? I understand that there is a bandwith difference but can I just re-tool a 915 MHz radio to shoot either?

I built a few functions on my Pi for LoRa but I am unsure how that transfers over if I switched. /g/ doesnt care about amateur radio.
>>
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How do I restore this? It's inox
>>
>>3008448
Yeesh, pretty precise stuff. I'd try curtain rail, but you might need something more specialised with an angle cross section.
>>
>>3008600
>>3008599
Generally, it is white to white, black to black, and bare to ground. Red is normally used for things like multi-way switches. If you have the manual it should tell you what the red is for. I suspect it might be for activating/power additional lights in a chain so that you only need one motion sensor.

>>3008612
You clean it and polish it. Get a polish that is suitable for inox or stainless steel and follow its instructions.
>>
>>3008623
yeah i believe the red is for an optional additional light so ill just ignore it for now (which agrees with the warning label on the red wire
But i just did white to white, black to black, ground to ground and when i turned it on the light was just flickering faster and buzzing even which i read was bad so i disconnected it all and have left the breaker off
I'm frustrated but appreciate the help
>>
>>3008018
Your house is obviously haunted. Call a priest.
>>
Is Hougen a good brand for mag drills? I need one and someone is selling a used one near me for $500.
>>
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>>3008685
depends what you need to do
and they have a ton of models
hougens run rotabroaches really well but dont have much throat for reaching out from where you have it magged down
and some dont have much room under the spindle to run a chuck and regular drills. idk if they all have reverse to tap with either
and having an independent floating body to fine tune the position like the big milwaukee is nice
and if youre gonna run rotabroaches over 1 1/2 you should find a power feed model
>>
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>>3008685
>>3008686
dis lil niggas my most used magger but its too way to burn up drill motors on
its sure nice to be able to hang 1 handed vs the back ache of the fatass big milwaukee
i almost bought one of the pancake hougens to do a sleeve job on a truck frame stretch but didnt love the proprietary twist lock rotabroaches and no drill chuck
>>
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>overseeded last week & now the big dead dirt patch in my lawn is full of grass sprouts
it feels so good, bros
>>
>>3008595
>flashing

try it using an old incandescent bulb, not an LED lamp or the spiral (compact fluorescent) ones
old fixtures need old lamps
>>
>>3008747
:0 wish i had the patience to wait for this advice, I just bought a new fixture and chucked the old one. maybe i dig it out of the trash, likely not
>>
2 questions

1) what is the best type of brush to clean stainless steel?

2) Whats the best way to de-rust steel/metal? If I just soak them in vinegar, it seems to work but leaves a bit liquid film on the part that still has some rust on it. Ive heard electrosys(sp), but it seems kinda scary and hard to setup.
>>
>>3008978
>Whats the best way to de-rust steel/metal?
Enormous question. Really depends what your specific situation is. Sandblasting works great but probably isn't practical.
What rust removing chemicals are available in hardware stores near you?
>>
>>3008980
Im in the US, major city, so I assume a decently wide variety. I dont have the $$ by any specific machines, but i could pick up a few chemicals if needed
>>
>>3008990
phosphoric acid aka parkerizing solution
homeless despot sells something canned metal prep and etch thats basically phosphoric acid plus a wetting agent for $20/gal which does a shitload
>>
>>3008109
Coil cleaning spray. Used to clean the coils on AC units.
>>
>>3008978
>Whats the best way to de-rust steel/metal?
Evaporust. Even Harbor Freight carries it.
>>
>>3008555
"Art"
>>
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I'm gonna ballast bypass this cunt, anything I should know before I snibety snab?
>>
My gutter seam is failing. What's the ideal way to clean and remove the failing flex seal or sealant on top?
>>
>>3009021
Turn the power off first.
>>
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>>3009030
I will duct tape the switch in the off position. I could turn off the breaker but it's the kitchen light and doing do would also trip my fridge. Not to mention the horror of having to set the clock on the microwave and the oven again.
>>
>>3009031
How old is your house? It has been code for the fridge to be on its own breaker since the Eisenhower administration. Mine was built in 1951 and the original two prong outlet was indeed on its own breaker.
>>
got a circular saw 7 and half inch feels too big for 18bmi person
what do the cool tradie twinks use
>>
also how much base plate play is acceptable
>>
>>3008991
>>3009005
thanks, i'll check these out
>>
>>3009062
Ospho is another one/brand to check out. Basically phosphoric acid as well.
>>
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>>3009037
Mid 90's. You're right, at least partially for sure. I was writing from memory and too lazy to go down to the garage to check last night. Good news is the ceiling lights are on their own breaker, surprisingly the correctly described "kit. lites".
Bad/whatever news is that I'm not sure if the fridge has its own breaker. I have 6 general use outlets in the kitchen, 3 on the left side and 3 on the right, plus the fridge outlet on the right side as well. The 3 on the left are on a separate breaker from the right-side ones, I know for sure because I have microwave and a countertop toaster oven on the left and it I run them simultaneously by mistake the breaker will pop. But it does not cut off the three general outlets on the right, nor the fridge (or the main oven - it's gas but it has an electronic display and electric igniters so I suppose it must plugged in somewhere too, so there's probably another outlet hiding behind the cabinets). (And I just remembered there is another outlet in the kitchen sink cabinet for the dishwasher and disposal unit).
I tried figuring out exactly what each breaker does a few years ago but I gave up because it's annoying to do without another person on the radio, and I remember that at least some of the description on the box were completely wrong.
All set to do the work now, only waiting for the splicing connectors to arrive if amazon could kindly hurry the fuck up.
>>
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Got a thing very similar to pic related and while I Iove it and it cuts great when it does, it just keeps eating through blades like there's no tomorrow. I'm around just over 100 cuts and I'm already on my 5th blade. They keep getting fatigue cracks and break soon after. Tried several from different sources and none made much difference. I use recommended speed, I don't gorilla smash the machine into the workpiece either. The only thing resembling tension adjustment I could fine is a pair of springs inside that can be moved between few detents, but they're in the loosest setting already. It doesn't seem to be overtightened anyways.
Am I doing something work, or is it just fucked by design?
>>
>>3009081
>something work
*something wrong lel
>>
>>3009081
Get a donkey saw. They are slow but they cut and replacement blades are super cheap. You just let them do their things and walk away. Many of them automatically shut off when they are finished. You can even DIY one if you want.
>>
>>3009081
what brand blades?
i gets 100s of cuts with my portabands on a single blade and usually dull the teeth on something before they break
bought a 100 pack of dewalt labled made in usa 10/14 blades that are good and lenox or morse blades of the same pitch work equally well for general purpose abuse
>>
>>3009083
In fact I'm considering making one to use pieces of broken band saw blades I now got shitload of, but for now I want to know if I can make it stop breaking blades somehow, or did I waste my money again by going for something cheap.
>>
>>3009084
Well the cheaper ones I admit (still around $8-10ish each), none of the brands I have heard of or remember the names. Some local shops weld them.
>>
>>3009081
have you tried tighter?
using the handheld ones, i find the blades snap when they are loose on the rollers or when you twist or pinch them in the material.
>>
>>3009087
>Some local shops weld them
theres the problem
the factory welds from the reputable mfgs are proprietarily excellent and jimbob using the built in welder on the side of the old chinkshit shop bandsaw cannot come close to the same quality joint
>>
>>3009089
I'm worried it might be too tight but it's definitely not loose

>>3009090
The only actual weld that broke was on the very first blade that came with the machine (it was the best looking one by far as well, sandblasted so you could barely tell it's there). The rest all got fatigue cracks growing from the gullets, sometimes in several places at once.
>>
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>>3007669
I have the unfortunate pleasure of having the sewer access or clean-out covers in my bedroom, in the basement. Lately I have noticed a sewer smell coming from them. What could be the problem and how can I fix it until the landlord does something about it? I don't know much about DIY, is there something I can buy or is it a sign of trouble with the plumbing? Pic is not my room, as I have 2 of these instead of 1.
>>
>>3009081
See if you can find the right size on sawblade.com or have them custom made from them. I have a Grizzly swivel head bandsaw and got tired of buying blades direct from grizzly that kept breaking at the welds. Got them for like half price from sawblade.com and they last way longer too. In fact I really haven't had any issue with them snapping at the welds anymore.
>>
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>>3009079
WAGO my beloved
>>
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I've been thinking about ripping my laptop's screen off and replacing it with a monitor, I figured I could save space if I bolted a mount to the wall instead of having it on my desk, but I wondered if this type of mount could be rotated 90° (as in, the arm looking like a crane) or if that'd just make it bend with the weight of the monitor.
I'd rather ask here bc I feel like it's too retarded of a question to ask the people that sell em. I'd conclude that it'd make the mount useless because it'd just constantly go down instead of staying still, but that type of movement would be amazing for my horizontally-challenged computer corner
>>
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>>3009112
Hell yeah welcome to the future baybee!
>>
>>3009109
Like I said, welds are not the problem, the blade itself keeps cracking. I believe at least in part it's because the machine is small and twisting the everliving shit out of the blade in the tiny space between the pulleys and guide rollers. Maybe the guide geometry is bad, like the backing roller sticks out too much for example?The guides have no adjustments whatsoever, but I took them apart first thing out of the box and made sure everything's clean of debris and is spinning freely.
>>
>>3009128
Sounds like brittle inferior bandsaw blade material... Try a good quality bi-metal blade.
What is the blade size?
>>
>>3009113
>ripping my laptop's screen off and replacing it with a monitor
Why not just run it closed or with two screens (native and external displays)?
>>
>>3009133
one of the hinges got stifff and destroyed part of the plastic case several years ago, I've had it taped open for a long while.
It's an old lappy, basically a worse desktop computer now. ideally I'll swap it for an actual desktop some day, so having a monitor and somewhere to mount it would save me from having to get one in the future.
Might have to get a different type of mount, coz I'm still living with my parents and if luck's on my side I might have to take it down to move, but I'm just brainstorming for now
>>
>>3009105
It's a sign of plumbing trouble, more than likely the air venting pipe is clogged with toilet paper and/or grease. We had this issue a while ago, but worse cause our sink was burpling, so there was no airflow at all. We went on our roof and shot high our hose down the air venting pipe, running the hose all the eay down as it was running and slowly but surely worked away at it until it was all/mostly gone. Afterwards to avoid it from happening again we dumped bacteria sachets down the toilet for a while to keep the grease formation down.
>>
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What connector is this and what's its rating?
It looks like an XLR connector, but it's actually a power cable; it's used on Parkside battery backpack.
>>
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>>3009165
Backpack in question
>>
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How do i fix my foundation ? North Texas DFW lots of clay soil slab concrete
All the doors are varying degrees of fucked up depending on the season, lots of interior drywall cracks, some concerning exterior stairstep cracks
This corner is a particular problem spot, with the most serious cracks found here and along the north wall.
There is a french drain that i need to make sure still works good, There is a big tree very close to the corner, and then there are sorta grading challenges with getting the water to fall away from the house. I excavated a lot of dirt from this exact corner a good couple years ago now cause it had built up against the brick facade.
My preliminary research says its all to do with the shrinking expanding clay soil, in some part due to the big tree there, and then in some part due to the grading all around the house as well as effective water/drainage management.
Further because it is kind of this big nebulous fix I'm wondering if I am wanting/needing to get an outside assessment from a professional engineer? Its a lot of money ($700) but i don't know if im equipped to figure it out on my own otherwise.
>>
>>3009230
even more research tells me this small cracking is par for the course and not always structurally significant, the real sticking point is these damn doors not latching or sticking and then the exterior gaps in the window trim. So if i can just fix all that shit and paint over the inside cracks i could carry on without too much worry.
With allll that being said how do y'all fix funky doors? just keep expanding the strike/latch holes ? mess with the hinges? some combination of both?
I ran out of free claude messages
>>
I ended up being 6 cm short on my pipe elbow and my entire downspout is slanted to the right. Is there a way to fix this when it's already welded together by solvent? I keep trying to rotate or move it and it won't budge.
>>
>>3009230

Central TX slab repair,due to that clay shifts over decades, is a mainline business out there. If it's 1 area, you might be able to get away with triaging it yourself. If it's multiple spots across the slab, call in the pros.

2 decades back, was at an onsite call (different industry) and the woman at home, was commenting her marriage survived the $50k slab fix their house required due to 3 decades of shift. But that was the whole 2k sqft house.

Dig down 2ft at and around the corner and examine. You're either chipping it out and restructuring it yourself, or calling the pros.
>>
I've got a battery lawnmower that uses 2 20v batteries in series to run at 40v. How bad/ what battery issues would I get using a 4Ah and a 2Ah battery together?
Could I do that until the 2Ah was depleted and swap in another 2Ah to run the 4Ah to depletion?
If anyone has the formulas to show how stupid of an idea it'd be I'd love to learn.
Hypothetically, what if they were in parallel?
>>
>>3009242
sounds expensive will prob just make the strike holes bigger and buy more caulk
>>
Got this gauge it was full then gradually dropped to the 3 green bars the next time I grilled propane ran out and it was zeroed in red. I got tank refilled hooked up and it's stuck at the three green, hasn't moved. Tapping it does nothing, I don't want to waste gas unhooking. It's been rainy but otherwise grill has been fine. Thoughts?
>>
>>3007986
Rotten wood stabilizer then wood epoxy
>>
>>3009286
>Remove gauge

>As long as it's still cooking, there's gas

>When it stops cooking, it's out of gas
>>
>>3009288
Yeah that makes for a shitty meal or even wasted food. I've got a backup tank now but if I've no idea the one is close I've got no reason to watch carefully or even switch preventively.
>>
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>>3009300
propane is liquid in the tank and boils off at constant pressure as you use it so a gauge is fucking retarded until the last breath of gas is consumed
learn how to judge the fill level by weight
>>
How do I avoid building permits
>>
>>3009306
DC15 Dexterity check
>>
why is it so absurdly hard to find info about mold removal? there is useless ai slop and people going back and forth this works no it doesn’t pls pay this professional a gorillion dollars for some mystery service
>>
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whats a good material I can use to make a panel of some sort for my window, so I can run the exhaust from a paint booth outside? ideally something that actually stands a chance at not letting out all of the conditioned air
>>
>>3009332
>letting out all of the conditioned air
You realize thats exactly what your paint booth exhaust is doing?
>>
>>3009306
Get friendly with your neighbors. If you're US, most municipalities only fuck you if it bothers someone and they rat your ass out.

Obviously the larger the project the more risk. Something like remodeling a bathroom, no one gives a fuck. Adding adding a 10,000 square foot roach hotel full of WOPs, LGA's are going to get involved.

Other possibilities to fuck you: the insurance jew, and if you sell the house, The buyer will use no permits as a negotiating point.
>>
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>>3009336
>buyer will use no permits as a negotiating point
the neighbor tried this and the dickhead seller moving away called his bluff
there was a nice (((illegal))) shed in the back and the roastie buyers agent told him to offer $2k off or remove it
seller said ok and him and his wife smashed it to bits and hauled it off
now the new neighbor always laments his fuck up and wishes he had a shed
>>
I want to put a safe inside a wooden cabinet that is just a little larger than it. Around less than 1 inch larger on all dimensions. What would be a good thing, that is somewhat easy to remove, and that would fit snuggly between them so someone can drag the cabinet around without noticing there is a safe inside. I though about carpet but I kind of think it would leave gaps for bugs.
>>
>>3009365
sprayfoam it in there and put trim around the front if you care
note this would be pretty permanent mounting
>>
how retarded is it to use a metal bristle brush attachment on a drill to clean a gas grill?
>>
>>3009373
Not very. I'd question the effectiveness since you need to push down fairly hard and the bearings probably aren't too good with shear stress, but meh. Like a lot of cleaning, elbow grease really is the most effective solution.
>>
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>>3007669
I have a desire to light up a 400 square foot area at night time. What is a good solution for portable flood lights? I don't have any batteries or anything atm. Ideally, it would feel like daytime when the lights are on, and it's not too expensive.
>>
>>3009384
>feel like daytime
>not too expensive
Well that depends on whether 50kW of lights is too expensive for you or not
>>
>>3009386
budget is $150
I thought lighting would be a stupid cheap and simple in this century
>>
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>>3009387
Back in the 1950's they thought they would use 'atomic' lights to light up large areas:

>Tottenville is illuminated by electric “suns” suspended from arms on steel towers 200 feet high. There are also lamps which are just as bright and varicolored as those that now dazzle us on every Main Street. But the process of generating the light is more like that which occurs in the sun. Atoms are bombarded by electrons and other minute projectiles, electrically excited in this way and made to glow.

So, yeah, the space is 20x20 feet? Buy used and get a bunch of worklights. Done. They have a ReStore in your area? Mine always has old lighting systems. Everything from grow lights, to florescent light fixtures, to giant fucking 20,000 watt light bulbs. Every time a business does a reno or clears out the stock room of shit they can't use anymore it ends up at our ReStore.
>>
>>3009398
I am seeing some 500w halogen lamps for $10

I kinda have a desire to steal electricity to light up parks at night in my city. They turn the lights off because park lights supposedly invite danger. Faggots.

I want to get extension cords, plug them into rec centers and light up the city
>>
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>>3009376
so far so good. too bad i ran out of light. im not sure how i feel about the brush marks in the metal though
>>
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I want to make these into cane tops. They're about the size of billiard balls and the holes go all the way through but I think just screwing it to the cane would look like shit

Ideas?
>>
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>>3009467
>>
>>3009468
That would look good actually

And I have some old brass bushings I could maybe hammer out a little flat
>>
>>3009335
yes but I mean not essentially having my window cracked open 24/7. I'd like to be able to seal it up without having to move my entire desk out of the way every time to open and close the whole window
>>
>>3009332
Is the pic your window? If so, long IKEA draft excluder ought to do it.
>>
>>3007669
yo there, I have a fridge samsung rt32 one of many variants, kek, recently just stopped cooling the food section, and turned warmer even when the freezer going on, I'm guessing the air ducts are clogged with ice, and this lead me there is something off with the timer, then roamed around the compressor and didn't find it, then I recalled the inverter thing, afaik the inverter ones doesn't have the analog timer and the main card does the function, but I see at the side of the little pump a gizmo I don't know its the timer.
So, how can I tell if the component (attached to the canon type pins) is an analog timer or not?
>also
the main sends 11 led flashings that supposedly says the freezer fan is not working (for the ice clog I think).
If I just change the main, it would work again?
I recalled once some guy told me it can be installed an analog timer to do the defrost cycle
>how to do it?
Thanks a lot ,cheers
>>
>>3009507
can you let it sit for a day or 2 unplugged and thaw?
i had to take the plastic cover behind the shelves out and hang little pieces of copper wire from the heater element to thaw the drain ducts because the aluminum tabs had dissolved
>>
>>3009509
I'm unplugging it now to see what happens.
>the aluminum tabs had dissolved
that's crazy anon, why would it happen?
that shit it's supposed to hold all that ice.
Thanks for the tip!
>>
>>3009512
my fridge is from 2009
they were just paper thin little flags that hung down the duct opening to conduct heat from the element. just the natural acidity of the condensation ice was enough to eat them away in 15 yrs
mine still has airflow issues from the styrofoam behind the panels getting age deformed so it condenses water under the bottom drawers which freezes into a sheet that has to be chipped out about every 2 months
>>
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what is the best product and process for removing heavy motor oil stain from finished concrete in garage. I see a lot of products show no phoshpate, so what posphate do? I want to be careful not to mess up the finish on the floor and some of the products say you need to test it somewhere first, or not to leave it on too long.
>>
>>3009531
>so what posphate do?
A really good job of removing oil stains at the risk of causing algae blooms in the waste water treatment process.
>>
What's the best way to anchor down a cast iron maillbox on a concrete pad I put down?

Also, is drilling concrete just hard as fuck? Or do I need a special bit? I have a hammer drill.
I need an answer by 9AM thank you.
>>
>>3009546
Masonry bit.
>>
>>3009552
Clutch anon answers just in time.
I probably got to to go to the store for it.
>>
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>>3007669
not sure if there is another board for this, but what advice would you give an apprentice in industrial maintenance? will i be replaced by le ai?
>>
>>3009536
>causing algae blooms in the waste water treatment process
No I just flush the waste down the storm drain. The fish love it.
>>
>>3009566
>will i be replaced by le ai?
not in your lifetime for actual physical work. The challenge would be to use AI to develop work schedules and for it to order parts and improve processes but the actual physical work needs to be done by more intelligent humans as the systems become more sophisticated. Low end manual labor jobs like picking cotton or lettice are the first to go and those types of repetitive jobs should be done by machine.
>>
Opened up a tube of superglue because I was going to use some
>All solidified in bottom of bottle
I had another tube still in the packaging so I opened that up
>All solidified in bottom of bottle
Both were completely sealed too. How long is this stuff supposed to last on the shelf?
>>
Can someone recommend some free no bs software if I just wanna fuck around with little architecture stuff like this?
>>
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I moved into this house a year ago that has this kind of wood paneling siding. When I first moved in I found a couple yellow jacket wasps in the house in the fall, but figured they must've got in through the door or some shit with all the moving we did.
This year I kept finding them in the house throughout the summer. I did some watching and found that some of the spots where the grooves in the wood paneling meet a frieze board, wasps were crawling in and out
I've been told since wasps are in there right now, if I plug spots where the grooves meet the boards, the wasps will just chew alternate paths, possibly into my house.
So my question is: can I plug it up after the first frost? If a new queen has taken up residence but can't get out in the spring, will she die before being able to hatch and feed new wasps?
(pic isn't my house, but mine is similar)
>>
>>3009730
If it's literally just doodling floorplans look into D&D mapping programs. Dungeonscrawl etc.
>>
>>3009739
Thanks!
>>
>>3009730
Sweet Home 3D can be fun to play around with and it's FOSS (respects your freedoms)
>>
What's the best way to put a whole through the floor and have it come out in the basement ceiling? I'm moving into a new home that isn't officially wired for ethernet and I want to run cables from the ONT upstairs down to two rooms in the basement. Also I need to put a hole in the ceiling above the ONT so I can run more ethernet into the attic for security cameras. Just want it to look as clean as it can. The ISP quoted me $3100 to run the cables and install the hardware (4x turret cameras, all upstairs, then one AP upstairs and one downstairs) which seemed really high to me. But of course I'm not an expert.
>>
>>3008234
There aren't even stores like Radio Shack in America, from what I've seen over these past years. At best you'll find a tiny "gadget" store which is really just old bits and bobs that have a "like new" price that the guy probably found in a storage unit and don't fit anything you have.
>>
>>3008344
When I was in grade school the janitor used to walk the halls with a tennis ball impaled on a broom handle, "scrubbing" up the scuff marks kids would leave on the floors (intentionally or otherwise). Seemed to work pretty well. I'm no expert but being an office I'm assuming that floor is probably vinyl.
>>
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I mite b doing this to increase workbench height. Question.
>>
>>3009286
You can pour hot water or coffee down the side of the tank and feel where the temperature changes. Hillbilly way of checking how full it is.
>>
How much should a guy be charging me to demolish and haul away an old shed on my property? Do I need some sort of "demolition" permit or something? I'm in Ohio.
>>
>>3009420
Big improvement. Down the line when the "flavorizer" bars get nastier and nastier I'd just replace them. Go off market, no reason to pay for the name when it's just a fucking piece of steel.
>>
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I have a rough running John Deere x300 with a Kawasaki engine.

Last year it had a bad idle, I removed the carb, and put all new gaskets on it, and ran all the parts through a sonic washer.

This year its dying at load after about 30 minutes of use.
I noticed some oil leaks around the valve covers and intake, so I tightened the bolts some and cleaned off the deposits with brake clean, still dies.
I ran seafoam through it, it made it better for about 10 minutes and then it died again.
new plugs, clean fuel, good oil level. 560 hours

What can I look at here?
>>
>>3009417
I'm not sure what you gain by being a public nuisance. Most people have no good reason to be in a public park after dark. Why not just get up to whatever you're planning to do on your own property?
>>
>>3009531
What's stopping you from using some sort of degreaser like oven cleaner? Obviously read about risks beforehand, I'm no expert.
>>
>>3009825
tennis, skating, workout areas, etc
>>
>>3009531
wet it with diesel
scrub with a stiff brush
put floor dry down and grind it in with your feet then let it sit a few days
repeat again and itll get 90% of it up
>>
>>3009828
Whats stopping you from just going during the day?
>>
>>3009833
work
>>
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>>3008344
actual pro strategy would be a low-speed floor buffer pushing a red or white scotchbrite pad in a puddle of dilute neutral soap water, like half a teaspoon of dawn in a mopbucket full of clean water. Flooding floating panel fake snap together floors is big no-no though, so you'd be spraying it on with a spraybottle keeping it wet but not puddling. The tennis ball on a stick is basically for shoe rubber streaks only, for full on scrubbing the tool is called a doodlebug, and you'd have a white or red scotchbrite pad on it. You could use the tennis ball in the soap I guess, just sweep the floor first and be careful as the small contact patch can quickly concentrate force into a stuck piece of dirt hard enough to scratch or gouge the flooring.

pic screws onto a standard broom handle
>>
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How do i grease this asinine bullshit, no greasegun tip is that slim
>>
>>3009824
not sure if vapor lock. opening the gas cap helps a bit, it still sputters but runs again for 10 minutes or so.

i ordered a new check valve
>>
>>3009850
pull out the shaft and give the u joint more room to move out of the way
>>
>>3009860
Yeah... taking at apart is the last resort.
I got one of the two joints by putting a grease nipple into the grease gun and pressing it against the joints nipple, a jerry-rigged needle fill adapter, the other didnt take but i got frustrated and will try again later, might not have got on it nice and flush.
>>
>>3009863
than droop the rear end, that will give the shaft more angle and maybe you can get the tip in.
>>
>>3009866
that's a good idea too.
If i have to tear this apart i am replacing these fuckers with 45 degree zerks.
wtf do japanese engineers smoke? every other ujoint i deal with even on farm equipment regularly is either a nipple on one of the joint ends, or coming out the center of the joint at a 45 degree.
>>
>>3009850
Needle tip adapter.
>>
>>3009866
>>3009888
Yeah I was just too frustrated, came back to it this morning and my makeshift needle adapter worked for the second.
what really gets me on this truck is that the main driveshaft has grease nipples on both ujoint, but not on the shaft itself, whereas the 4wd shaft has no grease nipples on it's ujoints, but does have one on the shaft.
I'll just have to get center mounted 45 degree nipple joints when I need to replace one and do all 4 at the same time.
>>
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https://youtu.be/4VnCJdYImb8
He explained, yet i still don't understand how the fuck he made the copper sheets work. I'm way too retarded to understand how this is completely safe, as i have a gaming pc that need a fuckton of electricity to work.
>>
>>3009942
That just makes servicing the PC a pain in the ass
>>
>>3009942
As to the question you must be skimming the video, he's insulated and used standoffs
>>
>>3009946
>standoffs
Oh yeah, i missed that part, i'm retarded
>>
>>3009947
I skimmed too, i just happened to click on the exact moment he showed the answer to your question.
>>
My uncle wants me to use red oxide as primer on steel. Is he right or senile
>>
>>3009996
Did you google it?
>>
Can I use a 20V drill charger for a 20V laptop?
>>
>>3009871
>farm equipment
i have to drop my deck on my john deere to get to any of the spindle nips
>>
I need to clean cut a 3" aluminum pipe.
I have a miter saw, jigsaw, angle grinder.
i dont have a specific steel blade except for the jig saw.
i need to make a clean, straight cut.

which is best?
>>
>>3010020
No hacksaw?

You can make a fairly clean cut with the jigsaw by putting a hose clamp around the pipe where you want the cut and following the edge of the hose clamp band
>>
>>3010021
im not sure how to get it started without it sliding all over and fucking things up.
>>
>>3010022
Get a hacksaw and a metal blade, or take the jigsaw blade out and start your cut by hand
>>
>>3010019
>john deere
Well there's your problem
>>
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I ordered this silent (turbine) air compressor because it was on sale. I'm planning to paint a hood with clear coat this weekend. What if it's just 50l? They say the paint jet will change with drop pressure but the gun is set to just around 2 3 bars. If it runs out of air I'll wait for it to charge what's the big deal? Anyway I'll get a 40l truck air tank and connect it to the secondary output.
>>
What kind of fuse is this?
>>
>>3010040
>fuse
What you've circled is either glue used to hold the 35mF capacitor to the board or before soldering or electrolyte leaking from the capacitor.
Since the cap isn't bulged, I'd guess it's glue.
>>
>>3010045
>35mF capacitor
I looked again - it's 33mF @ 35 volts - my bad
>>
>>3010045
the solder below it looks broken.
The fuse icon is missing a fuse.

It's a blown ECU. I'm looking for the damage.
>>
>>3010051
fuse icon, the resistor? the thing labelled R001? R for resistor? yeah people remove components from pcbs all the time when it goes through emf testing to get the cost down they realise they dont need it. if you redo the whole board you need to redo all the testing too very expensive. thats why its there.
>>
>>3010004
you need to check the amps on the charger vs the amps your laptop charger put out before it died, if the drill charger is lower it'll be safe but slow, and if the drill charger is higher don't do it. Also make sure both are putting out dc voltage, I've seen a few weird ones that put out 12v a/c and the like.
>>
>>3010053
Never mind. I thought the squiggly line was for a fuse. Derp.

Anyway in the red circle you can see a burn mark. I was looking for a blown fuse

Here is the whole board
>>
>>3010051
>>3010061
>>3010040
that is a trace which has become a fuse.

you should take your multimeter in continuity mode and probe one side of the break and go over EVERY external pin on the ecu individually and mark down any that are connected. then probe the other side and check every pin again.

hopefully for your case it goes out to just one pin or a couple of power pins or something, this would mean fixing it would make it work again so long as whatever vehicle component that pin goes to is replaced.

if you do repair the trace instead of checking shit, try temporarily adding a 1-2 amp fuse in between initially or properly reverse engineer it and figure it out
>>
>>3010085
Got it, thanks.
I was hoping the board had some internal fuse that blew but yeah, looks like a trace went instead. It was the only one I found under a visual inspection.

I'll see if I can resolder it and look for any other issues. Too bad I can't test it anymore after swapping to an aftermarket ECU.
This one burned out some time ago, I just don't have anything to test it it anymore without going through a lot of work.
>>
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This part of my refrigerator's door gasket is failing, is it possible to repair this mishapen part instead of replacing it ?
I've just tried heating it up with a hair dryer and massaging it back to form but that didn't really work so good so i added more tape to kinda pull it back into position
>>
>>3010210
Use silicone sealant
>>
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Let's say I dropped a can inside my fridge and it made a dent in the interior plastic.
Do I need to seal it? No hissing, didn't hit coolant line.
Can I seal it without emptying it and letting the plastic warm up, then cure for 24 hours?
Thing's 10+ years old, tempted to just ride this out. Thanks in advance for any input
>>
My outdoor plyboard flooring is lifting from all the moisture and monsoons. I'm planning to put polyurethane sealant on the seams temporarily to stop the leaks. Can I paint over it? I still need over a month to get all the materials.
>>
>>3010243
Yes
>>
I have some vinyl siding on the side of my house that gets a lot of wind that's lifting up. Looks like 2 or 3 rows of siding is lifting up a bit (not detached from another) in hard wind. I want to reseat these correctly.
What tool(s) do I need to remove the lifting siding? I tried to pull them up but couldn't by hand. I assume there's nails holding the siding, or were holding the siding to the house. What kind of nails should I use? Where should they be placed? Should I fill the old nail holes with caulking or something?
>I don't know anything about it so I'm easily considered a siding retard. Please advise.
>>
>>3009165
I can't say what type of connector it is exactly, but 4 pin XLR is fairly common for power cables/AC adapters.
>>
>>3009498
Get a duct vent with a damper
Get foam or rubber seals for the edges to prevent air-loss, or spray foam if permenant
Use plywood or some insulation board
>>
>>3009784
Holesaw + plumbob
>>
>>3009105
those are floor drains and should have p traps that, if not filled with water, will let out sewer smell. pour water down it and reevaluate next day
>>3009147
they make similar monitor mounts that clamp to a desk and don't require wall penetrations. i'd just go for the double even if you don't have two screens at the moment
>>3009546
masonry bit and tapcons, unironically should take a minute each
>>
>>3010318
iirc there's a tool called a zipper for this. it's basically just a bent butter knife minus serrations
>>
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>>3010405
That's what it looks like, but xlr pin position isn't exactly the same: picrel pins aren't simetrical
>>
>>3007753
They actually do this on really hot days to rooftop units at our local hospital. 669 local sprinklerfitter here.
>>
>>3008030
using an oscillating multitool or even a sawzall wrap sand paper around the blade area. it helps to dull the blade first if you can, then just squeeze the trigger and stick it in there
>>
what does working consecutive 15hr days do to your focus? lets say you get at least 6hr sleep every night, so 4 full sleep cycles?

ive worked ten 15hr days in a row and i noticed i was making tons of small little fuck ups in my routine of doing the same process over and over again, and then when i picked up a new task, i would like constantly miss little steps and details and have to keep running the process back here and there for lots of little minute detail misses. anyone dealt with this? do i need to try and get a solid 7.5hr if i am going to keep up with this?

i live at a mancamp so no commute, no cooking, etc
>>
>>3010658
Yeah shifts like that are counterproductive. You start losing productivity around hour 10

I never worked at a man camp but the last office where I worked, we *finally* got the site manager to put us on 4 10s and having a 3 day weekend every week upped productivity significantly
>>
>>3010658
Is this a third world slave labor camp
>>
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>>3010661
>>
>>3007986
Get a funnel and fill it all with clear epoxy. Tape it till it doesn't leak. It won't fix anything but you're planning on doing this anyway.
(real answer full teardown and rebuild)
>>
>>3008168
You have a decent wood and light metals set of tools, don't you fucking sell them. Get books and learn how to use those to make another few tools, and bam you have new tools AND new skills. Your cutting replacables will make FAR more difference in what it can do than you think.
You know who sells perfectly good all around tools? I'll give you a hint, they live in poor urban areas.
>>
>>3010661
no, entry level stem job but my boss gave me okay to work as much OT as i can so ive been catching us up on a backlog of easy shit after our shift is over and i usually get a pretty strong rush of energy on those last three to four hours BUT its affecting my work in the morning where i have to often switch tasks and collaborate with others.
>>
also even before i started working mad hours i had an indian coworker says to me "anon, you have a very poor short term memory"
is this a byproduct of 20years of moderate-heavy drinking/smoking?
anything i can do to improve?

the 16hr shifts def decrease my memory span
>>
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i have $100 refund on a boot purchase from work. im willing to spend up to another $100 out my own pocket on some comfy steel toe boots.
i really like these slip on boots from walmart and would like something in this style, though regular lace up boots are fine. i would also like to go to one of those stores that 'measures' your feet and suggest boots based on your foot width and arch and what not.
any tips for getting a low/reasonable priced boot while utilizing these services from a salesman, and not letting them upsell me the most expensive shit?
>>
^^^also most my jobs have me standing in front of a computer on 70% concrete, 30% dirt and seldomly actually doing work.
>>
>>3010681
Find a place that repairs boots locally and is run by an old guy (or the son of the old guy in a pinch). Ask them what the best work boots you can get locally are in your price range.
>>
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>>3010658
>Guys am I tired?
>>
>>3010681
$200 is pretty low for a pair of good boots. For $350 or so you could get a pair of Iron Ranges that will last a long time if you take care of them. Buy nice or buy twice. Look for a boot that's able to be resoled.
>>
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>>3010681
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boots_theory

The reason that the rich were so rich, Vimes reasoned, was because they managed to spend less money. Take boots, for example. ... A really good pair of leather boots cost fifty dollars. But an affordable pair of boots, which were sort of OK for a season or two and then leaked like hell when the cardboard gave out, cost about ten dollars. ... But the thing was that good boots lasted for years and years. A man who could afford fifty dollars had a pair of boots that'd still be keeping his feet dry in ten years' time, while a poor man who could only afford cheap boots would have spent a hundred dollars on boots in the same time and would still have wet feet.

Spend your money where you spend your time. If you are going to have that shit on your feet for 8/10/12 hours a day, 5+ days a week, spend accordingly.

Also, never walk into a Walmart again. People think Amazon treats its employees like shit but they just copied Walmart's playbook.
>>
i work in masonry cause im retarded and we were working by some framers, i saw a guy with a gun that was literally exploding like an m80 into the base of the frame, what the fuck is it?
>>
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>>3010725
Powder Actuated Tool? They are .22 round powered guns for setting shit in concrete without drilling first.
>>
>>3010727
that is badass, i was laying non-mortar retaining wall like a slave and was curious what the hell was going on
>>
Best way to remove soap residue stuck in my shower?
>>
>>3010773
Run the shower with hot water and spray down everything. Lots of water. Make sure everything gets nice and steamy. That will soften the soap residue. Use a cleaning solution that is good for your bathroom surfaces. 409, Tilex, Simple Green, whatever. If it is really bad you might use an abrasive cleaner like Comet or Ajax instead of a liquid cleaner. Scrub that shit with an abrasive pad. Green Scotch-Brite for example. That should take care of it.
>>
>>3010773
Good advice from anon here: >>3010777. I'd recommend Bar Keeper's Friend. One thing to note is to be careful with abrasives, depending on the material your tub is made from.
>>
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Prelude to a potential diy project I really don't have time for.

Thinking about firing this contractor.
Screws through shower pan lining is no good right? Or am I retarded and don't know what I'm looking at?
>>
im
sure i
coild get somthing better than my walmart
boots for$150-200ish
remember, i have a $100 voucher
>>
>>3010946
it's definitely wrong, but luckily you caught it before it's a super expensive fix.
there should be no penetrations of the liner on the inside or top of curb or within 4" of flood level height
flood level is the curb so 4" up the wall from there should also have no penetrations
it's especially bad on the inside of the curb, that is a big risk
luckily you can just take the boards off and overlay new pvc liner for the curb with new corners

i don't know how they're supposed to do it, as I just do the liners.
I figured they just mortar and tile directly on it or use some mesh
>>
File: 20261010_161053.jpg (1.15 MB, 1500x2000)
1.15 MB JPG
What do I use to fill these holes and what's the best way to get close to the texture? Don't need it to be overly perfect but I can't really find any good info, only on how to do a complete ceiling or how to fill in plasterboard or repair cracks.
>>
File: 20261010_121052.jpg (945 KB, 4000x3000)
945 KB JPG
What the hell is this pattern called? I'm trying to find replacement tiles for a drop ceiling and no place seems to have pic related.
>>
>>3010982

Any common dry wall repair compound.

You're never going to get the texture and color to match. You can kind of shape the goop to get somewhat the right texture but it's never going to look perfect unless you retexture the whole ceiling.
>>
>>3010990
I'm not too bothered about it being perfect, it's in the entryway by the front door and coat rack, it's not well lit and people won't stay in their long. It just needs not to stick out much as you walk in and not give a "this house needs a lot of work..." vibe.

I've bought a repair kit, a texture sponge and paint sampler that's as close as I could find so I'll see how it goes. Worse comes to worst it's a 1.5*2m bit of ceiling, I can clean it up and repaint the whole thing.
>>
>>3010988
Look at more than one tile.
Are they exactly alike?
If not, it's been applied to a smooth tile before installing.
If they are exactly alike it's a factory finish.
If you can't find it you'll have to make your own with a smoot tile and mud or plaster suitable for applying to ceiling tiles.
>>
I'm getting a "home theater" set up and am putting speakers on stands. I've read many places that stands should be filled with something so they don't produce a ringing sound, being that they're hollow. I've heard several suggestions: sand, cat litter, rice, #9 lead shot. The shot is way too expensive. Have you guys ever set up something like this before? Did you fill your speaker stands? If so, with what? I know that if I pick sand it needs to be dried to inhibit mold growth inside the stands. Not exactly thrilled at the prospect of oven drying many pounds of sand.

>>3011018
They are not identical in pattern layout, but there are many sections from different tiles in which the pattern itself is identical. I can't imagine they hand textured all these. Then again it was 50 years ago - who knows? Might just buy plain white tile and be done with it. Only two tiles need replacing out of the whole ceiling. The basement is about 1000 square feet, which would be a lot of tiles to texture. Another reason I assumed they just bought the tile ready to go.
>>
>>3011022
Maybe those wood pellets they sell to burn as heating fuel(and also mark way up and sell as cat litter). It's already dried and pretty cheap.
>>
>>3007669
I need a work bench, and I would like to build one. It would be my first, and I would like to make it out of wood (although a stainless skin on the top would be nice for dragging around transmissions and engine parts easily). Is there a simple style that I should look at? For example, "For a good all-around work bench, you're going to like the Gerson Hannover style for its versatility." I made up that name, but I think you get what I mean. Also, how do I know if I should do an L shaped bench in the corner or avoid that and just do a straight one? I'm pretty limited on space. The one I'm currently using was built before I moved in, and the corner of the L is pretty tough to actually use because of the depth and what I'm already using the bench for. If you guys saw my setup, you would be shaking your head calling me a big idiot.

>too long didn't read
I need a work bench. How should I build it and what shape?
>>
Have a collapsed garage I'm cleaning up, it's basically just cinder block chunks. What are some ways I could get rid of them?
>>
>>3011053

If it's breezeblock chunks, there are people that would like it. It's very useful for gardners as broken up breeze blocks are good for drainage at the bottom of planters, flower pots and flower beds. Advertise in local places for free rubble to collect. Just be sure there's no asbestos

Other than that, get a bunch of strong bags, find a local concrete place that'll take them for free or for a cheap fee.
>>
QUESTION.

I do construction.
I've driven a 2004 extended cab for 15 years.

I just found a unicorn truck, a 2011 f150 with 38k miles for 10k, snapped it up.

I have now lost my internal tool storage , the new truck is standard cab with a 8 foot bed.

What is the cheapest and easiest solution to have a safe and weatherproof tool storage.

I am currently sitting at getting a job box and chaining it into the back bed like a crossover box.

Anyone got a cheap ass solution so my tools don't get stolen or wet?
>>
>>3011053
Best bet is to load it all up and take it to the local dump and just pay the 50-70$.
>>
Can someone recommend DIY furniture channels that doesn't need to have a table saw, jigs or an expensive planer
>>
>>3007669
I wanna get a battery bank as a dual purpose thingy. The primary purpose is to run my shit (~1kw) for an 1 hour anywhere (I go weird places and the power at my house is janky af). The secondary purpose will be to supplement my 1 kw generator (prius + 1kw inverter) in the event I have an extended power outage (charge the battery bank while running the fridges so I am not constantly leaving the vehicle unattended).

Do most battery banks have the ability to choose how much power it draws for charging? In most cases I can leave it 12+ hours at a time to charge. I'm concerned that if it charges more than like 600 watts that it'll overload the outlets. The BLUETTI Elite 200 V2 looks perfect if it isn't fixed at drawing 2000 watts. It looks like it's adjustable but it doesn't say how low it goes
>>
>>3007669
I want to convert a 100+ year old fountain to a cistern to collect rain water. The fountain ran dry. It is approx 19ft deep and 3ft in diameter. The walls look okay but the ground is not sealed. I was thinking about building a tube and using pond foil as I am not sure if concrete rings will be possible. I was scouting for huge plastic containers of ready to use cisterns but they are either not fit for my measures or unreasonably expensive. Any ideas or other things to think of? I know about filtering oxidizing the deep water so it wont go bad.
>>
>>3011162
The surface area to catch is too small for a cistern to catch do you'd need to put gutters or something else to fill it.
They make like a paint liner for cisterns, I used it to patch mine. They work well enough
>>
>>3011163
Thanks. So I guess I have to bite the bullet and work my way thru on the ladder. On the other side I am also thinking about putting in smaller diameter concrete rings and just fill up the sides. I know its hard to say theoretically, but how can I make guesses on the longevity as the fountain is already very old?
>>
>>3007766
I think you woke up on planet earth, current year.
>>
>>3009147
just buy a fucking micro PC and cheap monitor
>>
File: 1000092154.jpg (214 KB, 1438x1440)
214 KB JPG
I want to make my own battery powered tools, and I got most stuff figured out except how to connect the battery to the rest of the assembly. Is there a specific part that connects to the battery? Or do I just make tabs to contact with the battery tabs
>>
>>3011319
>market is saturated in successful power tools that all do it the same way
>should i do it this way?
idk anon, probably not
>>
>>3011342
I know it's a retarded question lol it's just I've never seen the inside of one of these tools. I'll probably buy a broken one just to take it apart and learn it. But i'm guessing it's going to be tabs connected to wires right?
>>
/diy/ bros, I'm planning to switch my cable setup from cat5e to cat6a. Any tips on what to watch out for? I know basic crimping when i bought the previous cat5e roll, assuming it's still the same thing, but i haven't decided on which cable to get. I read around that there are fake cat6a with cca(not pure copper) around, wanted to avoid such thing if possible
>>
>>3008248
You would die of legionnaires disease.
>>
>>3011165
You can't. You fill it up and repair holes and it will hold water as long as it holds water

I bought a house with a cistern and it leaked for probably 20 years..slow drain into the yard (I'm on a hill) I found it cause of saturation and im autistic about water usage. The cistern didn't feel right vs how much water we used

I painted it with a cistern repair paint and it lasted another 5 years before a slow leak developed. I just got city water now.



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