Finna install a letterbox next weekend, including the concrete base. You're supposed to install the anchor bolts after the concrete has dried by drilling a hole, but can I instead fasten the bolts to the letterbox then place it in the still-drying cement? Then, the next day, I can tighten the bolts to activate the wedge function.
>>3010260You can. That technique is commonly used on street lights.
>>3010260use j bolts not wedges
Wedges a shit
>>3010272fuck tapconslittle tiny bitchass threads rust off and they get loose in 5 years
>>3010264This. If you're setting them in wet concrete just use j bolts or regular bolts with shit welded to the heads...
>>3010260Try and tell us about it, though I assume it won't turn. Just use a normal stainless bolt then, held on with a nut in the box.
>>3010260>pound threaded rod into the ground in the right dimensions>make sure they will stay nice and plumb until the concrete sets>for each rod use bolts to secure a pair of fender washers a couple inches apart inside the eventual concrete pad>pour concrete and wait for it to set>cut down rod to the correct height (file it to avoid sharp edges)>mount letterbox
>>3010317>boltsNuts obviously
>>3010260>Then, the next day, I can tighten the bolts to activate the wedge functionYou can. But shouldn't. Concrete takes about four weeks to fully cure. Resin anchors would be a better plan. Or an anchor that's designed to be set into wet concrete. A bent piece of threaded rod would be an option.If it's your own letterbox, just leave the anchors loose for a few weeks and then tighten them up.
>>3011507>Resin anchors would be a better plan. Or an anchor that's designed to be set into wet concrete.I would sincerely appreciate elaboration on this idea. i['m a service plumber and fucked toilet flanges often require adding concrete and I fucking hate setting bolts in wet concretethere's no positive economy to return trips
>>3011601Drill down into the concrete to create deeper holes. Use resin set threaded rod anchors in the holes. It'll go off rapidly. Backfill the messed up concrete around it with rapid set mortar*. You've got minutes of working time with both and they both go off in tens of minutes.>*Store the mortar in a sealed ice cream tub or cleaned out paint tub to keep it dry. It's five times more expensive than sand and cement but worth it for very fast repairs. Here's some good viewing material:https://youtu.be/Wl0QhjtPtdM
>>3010299blue ones too? I've put in tons but only "professionally".
>>3010272>tapconnigga come on, those ain't holding anything havier than your mom.
just drill it the next day ? it'll be plenty hard to work with 24 hours laterDoing a small pad is going to take you all day anyways
You could set some L brackes or something suspended above the concrete
>>3011601>>3011608Resin mortar is god tier. Well, devil tier. That shit sets so fucking fast you'll find yourself swapping mixing nozzles a lot because it will unrecoverably clog the nozzle if you set it aside for a minute. Half a minute in hot weather. I try to always keep a cartridge and a few nozzles around for when I encounter jewed brick walls with the kind of crumbly mortar you get when the brick layer somebody is being a jew and grudgingly adds a few teacups' worth of cement to a mix that's mostly sand.
>>3012301Set it in the wet concrete with anchors btw. Dont understand why you would bother drilling holes when you are the one setting the concreteA shocking amount of people do not know this but if you use a magnesium float you strip off the layer of paint covering the magnesium which helps cream it up ;)
>>3012332>A shocking amount of people do not know this but if you use a magnesium float you strip off the layer of paint covering the magnesium which helps cream it up ;)huh
>>3011608how good is this resin stuff in wet holes with cow piss and shit? some anchors are failing/failed and need to refasten them somehow im lazy fuck so id rather not move the stuff so i can use fresh anchorswas thinking of grabbing just size bigger stainless tapcons and callin it a day
