>>3012683
>Are you a butcher by trade or why the fuck would you have a butcher apron kek.
No, but my father was and I inherited his old stuff.
>Ironically you did so well that I think having the hoodie up is kind of a shame, it hides a lot of the craftsmanship on the mask
I guess that's the price I'll have to pay. The hoody and its shadow over the mask look way creepier imo.
And I will not walk around with the hoody and mask on all the time. Because I don't want to end up all sober and shit.

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>6€ delivered even after the EU tried to fuck over chinese imports

Binquilin! Long live the CCP! My life belongs to chairman Xi.
Sure it's absolute dogshit quality, but since it's PLA it still prints just fine.

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guys should I get AMS2 or AMS to replace my OG AMS on an x1c? Also does the AMS2 chain with the AMS for 8 colors?

>>3012741
Is your printer occupied 24/7? Mine sits around not printing anything for 99.9% of the year. Time isn't the issue it's material cost and I'd just tell him to pay for it and that chances of failure are high because it's such a big part.

>>3012775
this week it is because im busy prototyping stuff, and in any case i really dont want to spend 200 hours babysitting something. ill probably buy him a bambu a1 or something for christmas so he can start learning and wont take up my sv08.

>>3012771
>but my father was and I inherited his old stuff
Sure makes the costume look cooler, nice.
>The hoody and its shadow over the mask look way creepier imo.
For creep/scare factor you're definitely right, better to go that route. The less you show the better. Just hides a lot of your weathering etc.

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Inb4 formlabs buys them out just to shut them down

>>3012782
Few things that cause me full body shivers as fast as
>coming soon on kickstarter

>>3012784
Micronics were building a legit desktop metal printer, formlabs shut that shit down in 2024

>>3012786
I was mostly joking about how often kickstarter projects end up a failure (or bought out, or a scam, or massively changed).

But by God I'd love if we got at-home metal printing (doesn't have to be desktop) for a reasonable price.
I see that they're advertising a selling point around 5k, that would be super impressive, even if it ends being in the 5-10k range, as long as they can keep maintenance cost and post processing required reasonable it would be impressive.

>>3012782
>another powder bed printer

This shit will never be viable as a consumer unit, the process is too finicky, metal powders are too hazardous and the lasers are expensive.

They need to experiment with direct metal deposition the same way plasma or flame spraying is done.

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lmao

>>3012800
It really is interesting to see that people will literally have 0 seconds of critical thinking. Like he pulled that thatch hut model into his slicer, saw it generated 500g of supports and still pressed print (without even a calibration print first given the horrific stringing). Fascinating.

>>3012782
buy an ad, nigger.

>>3012789
My money is on electrochemical additive manufacturing. Selectively electroplating material right under the tool. Though ECM is probably more dimensionally accurate. Because of how similar the processes are, you’d do both with one machine, allowing you to build up continuously varying alloys and complex infill patterns with the deposition, then performing a subtractive finishing pass on the outside to get it to spec. I know ECM/EDM needs a motion controller that can backtrack to clear shorts, and alter its feed rate depending on conductivity, but that same kind of adaptive motion control would also probably be really good for electrochemical deposition.

>>3012802
a lot of people use printers as companies market them, push button, get object.
the idea that plastic could be different, or (god forbid) perishable, doesn't really feature on a lot of peoples radars as something to even think about.

like, the guy in the pic even mentions having changed nozzle sizes recently, which would imply hes got SOME knowhow (can unscrew a nozzle without killing himself), and knows that retractions can mitigate stringing, but cant make the logical jump to continue that thought process, so asks an adult (computer) for help.

hes clearly someone who isn't careful with money, what with the core one, and massive amount of supports for some wargaming terrain, so maybe this is literally baby's first printer, and the 200 filaments he bought with it have just gone soggy

t. some retard online

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i need some sort of filament dryer. i originally was going to get a food dehydrator because it felt like a "better" purchase, maybe i could use it for actually drying food or something (even though i've never needed a food dehydrator in my entire life).

but then you can't print out of a dehydrator and you'd need some other bullshit to hold the spool while printing.

is it worth just getting a purpose built filament dryer like pic related? i'd rather not have some nigger-rigged setup. i've been putting off using nylon and TPU because it's such a motherfucker to try and oven-dry it every time i want to use it.

>>3012835
>i'd rather not have some nigger-rigged setup
If you want a ready to use purpose-built solution, then the kind you posted which heat the filament is the only option, they all use the same technology.
The only real alternatives are either desiccant (you have to manually refill/refresh), or solid-state moisture-removal, which is expensive and I haven't seen one integrated into the device, you still have to manually design an enclosure for those.

>>3012838
can you run nylon out of a passive box? i figure it's fine for the duration of the print. if the RH in the box is at a "dry" level, then it should work regardless.

>>3012843
I don't have any box, I just pay attention to humidity for storage, but I'd imagine that as long as the humidity in the box is low, it won't make a difference if it's active or desiccant or whatever else.

Has anyone made an affordable and reliable filament re-spool extruder type of thing yet?

>>3012835
You often don't need to print out of a filament drier, for non-CF PETG or for silk PLA it's definitely not a requirement, but for CF filaments, PA, TPU, or multi-day prints, it would help. PA-CF specifically would make me desire the ability to print directly from a drier, though I don't know how quickly it begins to absorb moisture.

For drying nylons, cheap driers like that won't cut it. That Comgrow shitbox especially only goes up to 50C unless I read wrong. I'd be looking at something specifically high temperature like the Elegoo H1HT, Bambu AMS HT, or Sunlu E2. MyTechFun has some good videos on drying nylon filaments, if I recall 80C or above is preferred for nylons.

>>3012838
>they all use the same technology
No there's three broad categories.
The cheap ones:
>wide flat element, often self-regulating
>less than 50W, usually with external power adapter
>get up to 50C reliably after a short while, 60C can be a struggle
>no airflow directly through the core of the heating element
>often just a couple of power modes instead of temperature setting
>sometimes have vent holes, usually rely on air leakage around gaps
>often just a small fan to circulate air, sometimes no fan at all
The mid-tier ones:
>hollow heating element that air is forced through
>usually 75-150W, usually direct AC input
>can usually get up to 70C if not higher
>proper temperature setting on the display
>no humidity readout
>usually a vent hole or two to let moisture out
>decent airflow
And the high-tier ones:
>whatever fan and heater arrangement that can get up above 80C
>at least 100W, usually direct AC input
>measures and displays temperature and humidity
>active vent that opens and closes when moisture needs to be released

>>3012847
Do you mean turning scrap/pellets into filament? Or just respooling?

>>3012851
>That Comgrow shitbox especially only goes up to 50C unless I read wrong
ah yeah that's what it is. i remember i looked into dry boxes before and didn't buy one for some reason, and that was the last time i had a nylon project. now i'm doing it again and remembering why i didn't buy one in the first place-- you have to pay a lot and they still kind of suck dick compared to just running a food dehydrator.

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Hurt the top of my foot after doing sit-ups with my feet under the hard edge of my bed for a year or so. So I made this thing out of wood and some old clothes, but then I started hurting my foot by banging it into the wood. So I printed these things in TPU with low infill. Distinctly less painful.

>>3012856
I think the risk with a food dehydrator is the uneven heat distribution, the top can be up to 10C hotter than the bottom. With nylon though, assuming you’ve got it on a polycarbonate spool like on Sunlu’s nylons, anything between 80C and 110C should be safe and effective. I suspect those things have ample power too, but I’d want to ensure I get a model that can handle at least 80C, 90C would be a better bet in case you don’t trust its temperature measurements.

You can definitely also modify food dehydrators to have a filament output and a spool-holding feature. I’d also add a humidity sensor (one rated for the temperatures), if not a temperature-humidity controller like the W1099 or STC3028. Even if you don’t use the controller to switch the load, it gives you a good readout and the humidity measurement goes below 10%.

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The current meta is air fryers with a dehydrate setting. You guys are way behind the times.

>>3012864
I'm still waiting for heated vacuum chambers.

>>3012868
They'd only be marginally better than a well ventilated drier I suspect. The rate of diffusion of water out of the filament is probably limited by the solid plastic filament, rather than the partial pressure of the gas around it. At least if that gas around it is lower in RH than the filament, which in a heated drier it definitely will be. Having air around the filament constantly moving helps keep the filament at a constant and well-regulated temperature, hard to do that in a vacuum. I'm more excited at the prospect of counter-flow heat exchangers that can have high flow-rates of drier exhaust without any meaningful heat loss.

A vacuum chamber would make more sense for filament storage, though you'd probably back-fill with dry nitrogen or CO2 or whatever just to prevent humid air leaking back in. The lack of oxygen and water in the air would prevent any long-term reactions with filament, if you wanted to keep some expensive rolls good for years. Though conventional foil bag vacuum sealing with some good desiccant inside is probably something you can do at home too.

>>3012856
id have gone with a cut up pool noodle

>>3012877
and pass up an excuse to use up the last of his suspiciously flesh toned flexible filament so mum wont think hes 3d printing a GF?
nah mate

>>3012877
The only pool noodle I have is falling apart into cancer dust, and this thing has screw holes to fasten it solidly. This was a good chance to test how cushioned I could make a print, 6% infill with 2.5 walls (alternating 2-3) is definitely on the stiffer side of things, I think attempting just 1 wall (well, alternating 1-2) would work well enough and still be strong. A 0.6mm nozzle is holding me back, thick walls make the infill excessively sparse, I'd rather have thinner walls closer together. I guess I could still tell it to print 0.3mm wide walls for infill and it would probably come out just fine, not good enough to be an outer wall but probably strong enough, that's another thing to test. Because I was printing with such low infill, I made sure to angle my top surfaces as if they were overhangs, so they could print with or without internal supports. But the number of top surfaces made it pretty rigid on those sections, it would have been better set to 30 degrees from the vertical or so.

>>3012878
I think I've still got another roll of the shit. Vintage 2021 skin pink jaycar TPU, in anonymous brown boxes 250g at a time. Already gone through two rolls of it. Good thing TPU doesn't go bad from hydrolysis like PLA does.
It's actually normally a slightly brighter pink, but when you print it at 240C it mellows out a bit, getting closer to the uncanny inflatable lady colour.
Also now my textured bed is starting to fall apart in the middle of my bed, 35C might be too high for this stuff. I should test it at 25C and 30C to see how the bed adhesion changes.

>>3012870
>way to miss the point
A heated vacuum would be inefficient by definition. It's a joke on fads.

>>3012889
Sorry, missed your sarcastic tonal inflection.

>>3012851
>No there's three broad categories
My bad, I meant differing technologies as in "resistive heating" and "solid state" but yeah your explanation is much more useful to someone looking to buy a dryer.

How do I go about determining a suitable max acceleration for my retrofitted z18 running klipper? Is it just "make it move the print head across the bed with increasing acceleration until I hear it start skipping steps and then dial it back"?

Similarly, how do I determine how high to set run current? Right now I have the xy steppers at 0.7 amps, the z stepper at 9.75, and the extruder (voron printhead) at 0.3.

>>3012864
This made me think of that picture where someone put a thing of papa john's garlic butter into one of those coffee machines that takes cartridges

>>3012889
I mean in theory it would be fine, but it's overkill for this. If you're trying to de-gas the stainless steel beam pipe and niobium superconductors in a particle accelerator that's exactly how you do it though. When they first built the LHC they literally just ran massive amounts of current through the beam pipe so it acted as it's own heating element while running the vacuum pumps at the same time

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>>3012847
if you're talking about spool to spool rewinding there are a dozen at least, they're all stupid complex trying to do everything and fit every spool core, fancy gear tensioners, adaptable crank handle. I tried printing one and it was just stupid complex and never fit together. I've been meaning to make my own simple version but until then

>>3012856
alternatively: don't do situps.

>>3012877
only if you print a jig that accepts flat razors and you can feed the pool noodle through to make precise cuts to fit his use case.

>>3012864
>image shows spool
>image says dry prints
>rage.jpeg

>>3012921
are you retarded?

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just got x2d as my first printer, i'm not up to date with all the drama around bambulab, is it safe to upgrade the firmware on it? (as in feature removal, downgrade prevention etc.).
I'm on 01.00 and i'd keep it that way, but low power mode was only introduced in 01.01, i really need to put this thing behind UPS while not overloading it.

>>3012889
>A heated vacuum would be inefficient by definition
>It's a joke
such apparatus do exist and comercially dry wood and other shit, the likes of you is just too imbecilic to grasp the concept of microwaves

>>3012923
they were all in your shit before your printer model was even made. also they have pretty amazing recovery unless you're 3rd world bro.

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that one in the front row got me spooked

>>3012908
Yeah that sounds right. Get it to skip steps then back off a tad. But before that, set the stepper current so the motors are warm but not hot. Maybe 40 degrees, or 20 degrees hotter than ambient.
After that you can tune input shaping. If your input shaping is the kind where it just limits maximum acceleration, then you could turn down max acceleration and motor current appropriately too.

>>3012920
>sit-ups are actually le bad compared to X
Please don’t make me browse /fit/.

>>3012926
Microwaves can work for drying filament or so I hear, but you don’t get temperature regulation. Also carbon fibre filaments catch fire.

quick test print for a battery compartment mod on a speak and spell thats got a raspi jammed in it. i had to hack away a bunch of it cause 1) there are metal tabs under the stickers that hold the front plate on and interfere with a flush fit on the bottom and 2) i didnt bother modeling cutouts for the gussets on the right side of the compartment so a hacksaw solved that. despite the perspective being wonk as fuck, taking a picture of it from above and dropping that in clender as a reference and scaling it wasnt terrible for a first attempt at matching a physical object.

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>>3012998
oh

>>3012999
Gonna add a battery spring contact or something in there?

>>3012998
>>3012999
>wasnt terrible for a first attempt at matching a physical object
That's some pretty complex geometry for a first try. Good job anon.

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>>3013011
yeah, eventually the insert is going to fill the whole battery compartment and let the 21700s slide in through the back of the toy. i picked up a really decent powerbank charging board for 99c that works perfectly and im gonna hook it up to a usbc port i hacked into the other side of the case, but i need to figure out polarity protection because i dont think the charging board has any and its possible to put both batteries in any orientation. if i cut out some cussets on the bottom half of the speak and spell case i could fit the charging board under the battery caddy, but im trying to minimize modifications to the case cause these things are fucking expensive now.

>>3013018
thanks. something clicked a while back when i was watching someone do hard surface stuff with booleans and making many small cutters is just so much easier than trying to model one large object. im still useless with cad, but one day ill get down parametric design.

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>>3012782
There's another one also launching called the mesa 1. Which looks interesting, from what I can tell it looks like it 3D prints with metal powder and a type of sand(?) layer by layer and then uses a furnace to cast it effectively rather than using lasers
https://youtu.be/SRKj_QPDHXw?si=YZNkffrVBBGeS7LO

>>3013022
>posting tracking links on 4chan.
honestly this should be a bannable offense.

>>3013022
I'm not convinced that bike gear wouldn't just explode under normal use. Metal at home is pretty based tho. I wonder what real operating cost is?

>>3013022
I wonder if not using a laser helps with porosity or anything else because at the super small scale it's not blasting individual metal particles and vaporizing a portion of them explosively and unintentionally equipping them with tiny ablative propulsion drives?

>>3013038
>I wonder what real operating cost is?
Yeah isn't metal powder pretty expensive? It has to be super pure right? And getting them in tiny uniform sizes without being oxidized (especially with such a high surface area/volume ratio) has got to be tricky. I feel like the only way to do it would be to produce it in an inert atmosphere, or somehow chemically precipitate it out of some solution at temperatures closer to the human body than normal metal working temps.

It is nice to see it apparently can run on 120 volt power. Even if it requires a 20 amp circuit instead of a 15 that would only be a minor inconvenience if that even. I kinda wish we would just switch over to 220-240 volt power like lots of other countries but of course that would be a massive nightmare during the transition period so it'll never happen...

>>3013045
>Yeah isn't metal powder pretty expensive
When we had the other guy shill the SnowPod I looked up an article about it
( this one https://www.gizmochina.com/2026/10/26/hands-on-snowxs-snowpod-puts-real-metal-3d-printing-on-a-desk/ ) which very much seems like a low effort influencer type article, but they claim:
>At launch, the SnowPod is specified for 316L stainless steel only
>Xu quoted roughly US$50 for a 2.5 kg stainless steel cartridge
>SnowX reports powder recovery of more than 90%

20$/2.5kg of print ready 316L powder sounds frankly too good to be realistic, even for chinese market prices, so I'll believe it when it happens, which I doubt it will.
Wholesale prices for stainless steel powder are shockingly low though, we're talking ~10$/kg from factory (excluding shipping, duty, packaging etc).
Looking up powder suppliers that actually sell in EU/US, we're talking 30-60$/kg (weirdly with US being substantially higher than EU offerings, no idea why). But those are still not packaged for consumers and often have minimum purchase amounts of like 10-20kgs.

>And getting them in tiny uniform sizes without being oxidized
>to produce it in an inert atmosphere
That might be why theirs only offers 316L stainless printing and also requires a nitrogen generator or source to go with it.
Being willing to require both stainless and atmosphere does suggest oxidization being a pretty big challenge.

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Surface was a bit unstable. Seemed like the motherfucker was printing out of its mind. Got it done super fast. If I lower the speed, think it'll help for precision?
This is just out of the box, loading the file that came on the included sd card.

>>3013069
>If I lower the speed, think it'll help for precision?
I don't really see precision errors on that print, so what's the point? You've got some stringing, but the layers look aligned.

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>>3013070
There's one seam about halfway up the hull, and then some of the hangs sagged a bit. I haven't 3d printed since that one made out of MDF came out, not sure what a good print looks like

>>3013071
Hm yeah that doesn't look ideal.
To be fair a bambu printer with default settings should actually print at a moderate speed and do so with minimal hassle. For the speed if your last experience was the old reprap days then everything will feel super fast to you. But that layer shifting and those overhangs don't quite look right.
>not sure what a good print looks like
Your benchy in the first pic looked good to me. From this angle not so much. Shouldn't have that layer shift contraction whatever and the overhangs shouldn't sag this bad.
As is it's good enough to use, but probably worth fixing those issues.

>>3013074
I'm gonna try moving it to a more stable piece of furniture then. After that I'll recalibrate and then consult the troubleshooting stuff in the OP.

>>3013077
Sounds like a good plan. Bambu printers are pretty good at compensating vibrations, but some rubber feet, more weight or more stable furniture should help anyhow.

>>3013071
That's shrinkage. the solid infill is pulling in the walls. Setting the wall order to inner/outer/inner can help with that.

>>3013081
Noted, thank you anon

>>3013047
I posted the snow one above and also this second one. I'm genuinely interested in metal printing ever since I found out about Micronics only for them to be shut down by formlabs, also another reason I recommend to everyone I know to avoid the new formlabs printer apart from having to throw out and buy a few vat every time you need to change the fep

>>3013038
3D printed plastic bike gears work fine even without 100% infill. I don't see why this wouldn't work unless it was particularly soft and weak bonds like real bad bastard metal

>>3013047
Don't forget metal is denser, so equivalent part costs more as it's heavier

>>3013045
I feel like laser might be better for more detailed prints than sand casting, how does laser work with overhangs though?

>>3013021
If you have nipple cells, you could try blocking the non-nipple side from making electrical connection to the contact from plastic geometry alone. You could also add a DW01 protection circuit (or equivalent) to each holder, assuming those have reverse polarity protection. I’d probably want to put protection circuits on them either way.

>>3013033
A well written website would auto-trim links. And support .webp.

>>3013045
If there’s a binder to burn off, I wouldn’t trust it not to have porosity. Though maybe they can just make it shrink isotropically without warping. If it can produce parts at least ~75% of the strength of cast structural metals, and be accurate enough to press a bearing into without post-machining, it will find sure success at engineering and prototyping shops. But with toxic metal powders and high temperature firings, I don’t think it will ever appeal to hobbyists.

>>3013071
Google “benchy hull line”. I think turning your extrusion ratio down to 96% should fix it, though maybe that’s not ideal. Orca has a calibration print for testing that.

>>3013089
Laser doesn’t have problems with overhangs at all.

>>3013088
I can't really think of any uses for one for my current usecases, but if there was one that was reasonably priced (think like 10-15k) I could maybe see it become a thing at our local makerspace, and it would be really cool to print some stuff with it. I also know a few people who regularly have metal 3d printed stuff made in china, they'd be happy as shit if it became more affordable.
>>3013089
>Don't forget metal is denser, so equivalent part costs more as it's heavier
By volume, sure. Still the 50$ for 2.5kgs seems unreasonable, we're talking cheapest wholesale prices at the factory tier prices as a pre-packaged consumer ready cartridge. I just don't believe that'll happen. But goddamn would I love to be wrong.

My dear sweet child whom I have raised from birth just knocked a 9 hour halloween print off the bed when I asked her to check for a filament tangle. It was 7 hours in... I have no children.

>>3013094
That sucks. What was it gonna be? Post model.

>>3013092
I'd love to be able to grind my own metal I find scrap of and print it.. actually both these type of tech might work with plastic printing too potentially and could grind plastic in fine enough powder for it

>>3013098
metal powder is not just ground scrap, very unlikely that's ever gonna happen.
For plastic scrap it's more realistic, there's been projects attempting it for ages now, some work better some worse. Some use full scrap, others use pellets. Issue is these days PLA filament pre-extruded is so goddamn cheap it's just plain not worth it economically. Like look at >>3012772 , that's 6€/1kg PLA. Pellets won't be much cheaper and still require coloring, plus all the feed mechanisms I've seen were anything but uniform.

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>>3013097
it's my annual toy for the trick or treaters. the first plate had some issues >>3012957 including an unreadable ! and the moon being dull, this plate was going perfect except for a feed error. oh well, restarting- reprint is always better right?

>>3013101
Ah yes I do remember your first plate. I was wondering if it was just for home decor or if there was a use for it, a small printed toy for kids is really cute.

>>3013100
Youre talking about extruding ground plastic scraps. But if we had a powder plastic printer you wouldn't need a filament extruder. Though I think powder printers are likely lower print quality than filament printers

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Halloween costume is done.
Originally started thinking about making it in >>3010626 , but only started printing in >>3012246 .

Learned a shitload: First time having to print something in parts, first time painting a print by hand, first time in a long time sewing, fist time drilling into PLA, first time trying to reinforce an insert without adequate support.

I managed to finish the mask/skull, a headband with attachment pieces custom sewn around my head shape, stilts and adapters and made 3 necklaces, two with 5 bone plates each and one consisting of around 30 bones of varying dimensions and shapes.

The skull is hollow, with the beak having a separate chamber from the skull cavity, with 6 holes in the beak. The idea was to have a fog machine create fog and release it through the beak, but the vape pods I'd have needed for that were out of stock. The upper part of the skull is kept in place with inserted magnets, so easy to create the internals next year.

The coat will have to be a project for another year, as will be getting some fabric paint to draw runes onto the red scarf and making foam pads on the shoulders to ease the transition from neck to shoulder. This was the lowest budget option that somewhat worked within a dew days; a black coat that hides the transition from head to skull for like 5€.
The way it works is that there's a harness you wear over your head, with the skull hovering over your head on stilts which also makes me 7'3", adding to the creepy factor. Pretty sure if I wear that and you only see me from the distance it'd be creepy.

Dedicated to >>3012771 >>3012664 , his weathering stuff genuinely motivated me to make it real.

>>3013114
Wow, it came together great! The scarf might be a bit bright coloured, but it’s not bad.

Better wear some thin dark cotton gloves. And have bangles and tiny pouches and charms tied around your wrists. To a lesser extent around your ankles. If you can pack some XL gloves with finger extensions to make your hands look eerily long, that might be cool too, but not very practical.

Some sort of prop like an old lamp might fit in too, though if you have to repaint it or add electronics that could take too long.

Also remember as many Darkest Dungeon narration lines as possible.

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>>3013120
>The scarf might be a bit bright coloured, but it’s not bad
Yeah I got it as cotton fabric, but the listing looked a lot more muted (and less fine weave). I mean I can probably still weather it and wash it with some dark dye to darken it, but not in time for this year.
On the upside, a monster with bright red reminds me of the movie "the village" (2004), where no one in the village is allowed to wear or have red because it attracts the monsters (which wear bright red robes). That movie traumatized the shit out of me as a kid when it was on free TV, so I kind of like it, even if it's not accurate to the game model I was going for.
When I have time the goal is darker, more frayed, and with runes/inscriptions on the fabric.
>Better wear some thin dark cotton gloves
Gloves will be worn, don't worry.
>Some sort of prop like an old lamp might fit in too, though if you have to repaint it or add electronics that could take too long
I have a metal/glass lantern (only candle, not oil sadly) but that would go really well with it. Great idea anon, thanks!
>Also remember as many Darkest Dungeon narration lines as possible.
Shame on me I haven't played that. Will watch some video though, people might actually get a reference to darkest dungeon, unlike pathologic which no one is gonna recognize kek.

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>>3013114
looking really good so far. Great costume and really creepy.
>his weathering stuff genuinely motivated me
thanks, but most of my ideas were stolen anyway.
Learned the techniques from this guy:
>www.youtube.com/@BigHush
>>3013122
checked
>reminds me of the movie "the village"
had to think of this movie aswell, since I don't recognice the game your costume is referring to.
Or maybe the bird creatires from the "dark crystal".

>>3013112
real SLS printers are better quality and IIRC stronger than FDM

>>3013114
next time consider slicing up the model along natural lines so the connects are hidden, otherwise it looks nice esp the bones in the necklace

>>3013125
>looking really good so far. Great costume and really creepy.
Thanks! For a first attempt it came out well I'd say.
>Learned the techniques from this guy:
I'll check him out. I used to watch a guy who did like kitbashing from random dollar store stuff, but it all went over my head since I was never into tabletop or anything. Now I'm actually interested in understanding all the techniques more.
>Or maybe the bird creatires from the "dark crystal".
Never saw that, but they look nicely creepy, so that's good.

>>3013127
>otherwise it looks nice esp the bones in the necklace
Thanks! Then being actually dangling on string, rather than being glued to the fabric also has the upside that they make a little sound and can stick out. Feels much more like actual bones that way.
>next time consider slicing up the model along natural lines so the connects are hidden, otherwise it looks nice esp the bones in the necklace
Yeah that was partially because i was kind of expecting to fill it in with fairing compound anyways, but then the one I had wasn't usable anymore (had hardened). definitely will put more effort into that next time though, both finding better angles for the cuts and putting more effort in alignment/sanding to make the layers actually disappear.

Do you guys recicle the material when something goes wrong? is there a practical/cheap way to do it?

>>3013137
*recycle

Am I cucking myself if I do the binding shit to a bambu?

>$750 p2s combo with 6 filaments
>$920 for x2d combo with filaments
eurocommie prices so with taxes etc
worth the extra for x2d?

>>3013137
Creality is releasing the m1/r1 soon. This is basically a filament recycler. The issue with recycling though is that the color is going to be an issue and you also need a good ratio of virgin material. Plastic doesnt like being melted over and over again so you run into issues. I would probably only use recycled material for prototyping and non critical components. Basically treat recycled material like its just barely a step above trash because it is.

>>3013137
No practical or cheap way to do it, unless you own a big enough print farm that it's worth buying pellets instead of filament in the first place. Either for making your own spools, or for direct pellet printing. Recycled filament is generally a lot runnier than virgin plastic, so you have to blend your ground up plastic with fresh pellets. I'm waiting for a reliable consumer pellet extruder, but I'm not holding my breath.

There are a few uses for FDM scrap, like casting it into solid blocks to use for knife scales or subtractive machining or whatever, and there are a few places you can take your scrap to for them to make recycled filament from it. Those places generally don't pay you for it, just give you a minor discount on their overpriced filament.

If you print in ABS/ASA, you can dissolve the scrap in acetone and use the resultant slurry as a glue for bonding the parts together. Maybe it's even possible to make a printer that feeds this slurry out of a nozzle, or an extruder that makes filament from this slurry, though managing the concentration of the slurry seems difficult.

>>3013156
The X2D is definitely more capable, but I've heard mixed results about its reliability with that bowden extruder. If you don't need the heated chamber or multi-material, I'd go for the P2S. Though if you print enough with two main colours that the AMS waste will add up to $170 within a timespan you care about, then the X2D would be worth it for the filament savings. Though at that point I'd consider a Snapmaker U1.

>>3013158
I doubt it will be economical to run that thing. But we'll see.

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Any ideas for useful prints? whenever I browse stl sites they're just full of plastic waste like funko pops and random trinket garbage

>>3013160
The assumption is that it even works because its creality. I have one paid for already and I will be running 100% virgin material through it. My guess though is that it wont be able to hold a diameter tolerance. Optimistic, but I also know this is creality so could just end up with an annoying paperweight. Its already been delayed for about 5 months I think.

If it works and spits out 1kg an hour of $3 kg pellets it will pay itself off in a month or two.

>>3013161
check makerworld. A lot of my prints are things i need like shims, spacers, replacement parts. I did just print out some monitor shelves the other day. Just a little shelf that balances on the top of your monitor. Printed a couple out and moved my weeb shit and some of my tools on top of it to save some desk space.

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>>3013163
do you search a specific category or something? this is what I find on the main feed

>>3013162
>The assumption is that it even works because its creality
It's a brand that's got a decent chance of giving you a refund if shit goes wrong, but they're kinda known for making both good products and shitty flops. I bet the i8 will be a clog machine.
>My guess though is that it wont be able to hold a diameter tolerance
You can always use a filament diameter sensor on your printer to calibrate that out.

I suspect it's just not worth the man-hours to handle the thing, though if you're winding 5kg rolls and only need to babysit the first and last minute, the math works out different.

>>3013161
>>3013164
The target market for funko pop trinket waste are people who own a printer without knowing anything useful to print with it. People like yooooou!
Grabcad is the more autistic CAD repository.

How about making an equatorial mount for a camera/telescope?
Gridfinity/pegboard?
Rack/enclosure to mount all your computer peripherals into (card reader, USB hub, DVD drive, etc.), so you can more easily plug things in and out of them?
Impact-resistant TPU shell for a power-bank?

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filament should be free

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Okay now I found something worth printing

>email elegoo for info on their mystery petg being rebranded as other brands
>they send me google drive links
>technical datasheet .zip
>only contains pla wood and asa
>some of the values are different from what the website quotes (impact strength and bending modulus)
>msds .zip
>contains lots of filaments (but not the petg)
>tells me composition of rapid petg is 98% tpa, eg, and chdm, with 2% unnamed assisting agent
>apparently their petg-cf is made of 95% 2-phenylethyl-beta-D-thiogalactoside, and 5% unnamed assisting agent
>can't find out what that shit is, some kinda antibacterial agent?
>pla basic and pla are both 92% pla and 8% assisting agent
>pla plus is 95% and 5%, so it's more pure than the pla and pla basic?
>rohs.zip
>passed

>want to buy a 3d printer
>billion choices with unclear tradeoffs
so whats good in the $500-$750 range

>>3012786
No it was nylon sls. Not metal

>>3013169
The OP specifically has a section just for you. If you don't know what you want, then you want a Bambu.
In that price range you're choosing between a X2D and a P2S. Picking between two choices should make it much easier for you. Might be worth waiting for black friday deals.

>>3013161
Useful prints are mostly useful if you have a problem that they would solve. Printing them to print them doesn't make much sense.
Stuff that's often useful though: Organizers and replacements for proprietary hooks and such.
While not glamorous, stuff that's 3d printed I often use are 3d printed attachment hooks for my shelves that hold up those climbing plants. Looks pretty and costs barely material. Also if you have Ikea Skadis boards the boards are cheap but they try to get you with hooks, adapters etc. Just print those.

These are really convenient if you have a lot of metric bolts and hate guessing/measuring their length each time.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1974259-your-pocket-gauge-for-screws-nuts-m-card
or if you also use imperial nuts and bolts https://makerworld.com/en/models/2123652-nut-bolt-measure-pro-gauge-sae-and-metric
If you don't have multi material/AMS printing, get a model where the text is slightly embossed, print in white, then just paint it in with a sharpie.

If you like to go hiking/outdoors and shit /innawoods/ then these are a great hygiene upgrade:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1318654-ultralight-travel-bidet

Either way the stuff that's actually useful that's ready made/on sites is limited. You'll enjoy your 3d printer 100x as much if you learn at least basic parametric design to design your own stuff.
The most euphoric feeling is designing and 3d printing some 10g heavy part that is needed for something you own to work, but the replacement either doesn't exist anymore or costs like 50$ each.

>>3013137
I have an iron cast to melt scraps but I've never tried it and jsut have boxes upon boxes of filament poop. I don't really give a shit because my waste stream x1000 still pales in comparison to any industry and there are much better things you can do for the planet.

>>3013141
the app is good and it's not like they don't already have everything when you bought it

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>>3013161
1. learn CAD
2. organizers
3. learn CAD
4. browse by category (kitchen, 4runner, bedroom, bath, foreskin, garage)
5. learn CAD

>>3013166
>he doesn't write off his filament

>>3013169
yes

>>3013137
There's no practical and cheap way to do it. Some people will melt filament or scraps in an oven or with a iron and baking paper into a sheet, then form a bowl from that, but it looks like ass and you only need so many ugly bowls in your life.
As >>3013158 said, m1/r1 would work, but are cost prohibitive.

The only "realistic" option, and that's still associated with upfront cost and only makes sense once you have a lot like >>3013178 is to shred it (e.g. in a blender), dry it in an oven or dehydrator, then get a manual desktop injection molding device. Still like 200$ and you'll have to decide on one item to be able to make with it, so it better be something generic like hooks or some shit. So it only makes sense if you can sell it to hippies at a large markup due to being "100% recycled".

>>3013166
Filament is so cheap it basically already is, at least for the lower performance materials.
Seriously, it's insane how low costs are these days.

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I wonder how anon's foreskin regrowing adventure is going.

>>3013187
He grew too much and it engulfed him.
He's like a cocoom now.

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>>3013188
>cocoom

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so how's snapmaker u1? still worth it in current_year?
it seems to be more open than the average locked down chinkbox, with some custom software and hardware projects that even get official support from time to time. the baseline characteristics arent great - 100C bed, extra enclosure needed on top etc - but 4 nozzles is neato and there's a lot of community activity when it comes to modding etc
seems like a decent model if you want a baseline multi-nozzle printer that you can then meaningfully extend, although you'd probably NEED to extend it somewhat if you want ASA, TPU etc.

>>3013169
Like >>3013176 suggests, but the Snapmaker U1 is good and user friendly too.

>>3013202
Reliable plug-and-play printer for PLA, PETG, TPU. Buy/make the lid and it will do ABS/ASA, but without an actively heated chamber it won’t be brilliant at that. Definitely doable to add a chamber heater. If you want to feed it filament from a drier, I think you need to modify the filament feeders a bit too.

It’s an early generation toolchanger, but as we’ve yet to see an INDX-style nozzle changer that’s reliable, I think it’s still the best choice. Maybe the FlashForge toolchanger comes close, but it’s more locked down and more of a PLA-only machine than the U1.

I await Snapmaker’s next update to the U1, or a toolchanger from Qidi.

>>3013207
For ABS I've only used eSun ABS+HS and it's amazing in my P1S without a heated chamber. Though the bed temp is like 100 so it'd provide some kind of chamber temp. It's actually been way better than their PETG+HS and PETG in general for me too, better print quality, way faster printing/more flow, and way less warping during printing

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honeycomb infill FTW!

>>3013168
>2-phenylethyl-beta-D-thiogalactoside
>also known as PETG
ahahaha