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File: wwefsdf.png (1.57 MB, 1840x1035)
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MX Clack and Vintage Beige edition

prev >>109165391

>Keyboard recommendation template:
https://pastebin.com/n220xk9V

>Find vendors
https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list // Up-to-date list of reputable vendors with brief descriptions
https://keycaplendar.firebaseapp.com // Tracker for current and upcoming keycap group buys

>This keyboard stuff is so expensive!
https://aliexpress.com (or Taobao if you know how)

>Learn about MX-type switches ("mechanical keyboard switches")
https://rentry.org/mkg_switches // Introductory guide
https://www.theremingoat.com // Switch reviews
https://www.switchesdb.com // Compare force curves

>Split and non-standard layout resources
https://compare.splitkb.com
https://keyboard-design.com

>What does ______ do to a keyboard's sound?
https://blacksimon.tv/science (Google sheet)

>Practice typing
https://monkeytype.com
https://keybr.com
https://thetypingcat.com
https://play.typeracer.com

>How Cherry switches do backlighting, and why it's not ideal
https://rentry.org/mkg_backlight
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ntHaHZhqzwY
>>
>>109248717
why is her right hand cropped?
>>
Sent an e-mail to Joe about those broken keycaps and he's offering to send free replacements, paying for the shipping himself, as well as any extras I'd like in the same package. Now I'm thinking about which extra keycaps to get. I think I'll get the Model M style green Alt and SysRq/Break ones (planned on that initially), extra keys for the left hand cluster, and maybe one beam spring module to have a fidget toy and see what they're all about.

As usual he tries to upsell me for all the other extras, like the extra bumpers, but I got the medium ones thinking that there are dedicated threads in the keyboard, but no. There are only cut holes, and the ones for the upper part conflict with the backplate screw holes, the bumpers are meant to be installed with nuts internally, and to make things funnier, the nuts included don't seem to match the thread of the bumpers so I can't screw them in all the way, but if I did I wouldn't be able to install the backplate screws. A design oversight for sure, but that also means I can figure out custom riser bumpers on my own by going to the hardware store.
>>
>>109248933
it's likely a dude
check the channel out, the hands changed very recently
probably went on HRT to dive deeper into the hobby, haha
>>
i've gotta be retarded can xda keycaps be installed in any direction? i can't tell if they're the same on all sides
>>
File: bu.png (2.35 MB, 1285x860)
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Click jacket switches has the best tactile impact. They feel like popcorn blowing under your finger. While click bar switches feel like bubble packaging.
>>
>>109246862
>>109246853
thanks, but not quite what i'm looking for. i'm either going to wait to get responses back from those i emailed or compromise using the og listing
>>
I should've done a close inspection of every single flipper and spring on the first opening. I feel like a bunch of them are a little off, where they still buckle and work, but not as reliably as I'd like them to be. Plus it's a PITA to try and adjust them from the barrel, and I don't think I'll be able to floss mod them from the barrel either.

Seriously, I have no idea how you're supposed to do the floss mod without doing something akin to soaking the SuperFloss in water so that it shrinks so it can go into the spring, then dry out, corrode the spring and go back into the shape it needs to be. Maybe I should try the grease mod instead, but Super Lube is ridiculously expensive here.
>>
>>109249351
nonsense
get the Melodic/Harmonic/Lanes
click jackets are horrible and you will feel a real isolated tactile impact
not that jacket bs
>>
>>109249773
how is it so janky if these boards are 100% reverse engineered new products fresh off the Chinee assembly aline?
>>
>>109249815
Springs can get loose during shipping. Two of them fell off completely and were ruined so I had to replace them before I could use the keeb. Joe justifies it by saying that it's cheaper for him to cover the shipping damage by sending free replacements from his own pocket than to invest in better packaging.
>>
holy fuck these silent lemons are light as hell. they feel and sound nice but my heavy hands keep fat fingering other keys.
not really sure why people say switching to splits is so difficult I'm already at 60 wpm without punctuation down from 110ish but I guess I just always had pretty good typing habits there's only a few weird things I do like using index for C and ring for P.
I'm just sticking with qwerty it doesn't really seem like switching to something else is worth it for me.
>>
>>109250137
qwerty just werks
splits are for...to each their own
but fuck that shit
>>
File: sfgfdvfd.png (2.77 MB, 2794x1415)
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Bowl Keyboards is where dreams go to die
>a Baion keyboard without Baion's signature design
peak Bowl enshittification
>>
>>109249804
>you will feel
I actually tried many switches and made conclusions based on my feelings. On what your knowledge is based?
>>
>>109250336
MX Blues being dogshit next to Gat Melodics
>>
>click jacket switches
>click bar switches
those Gats are click leaf switches
haven't tried those have you anon
fuck click jackets
>>
what's the best cheap tenting solution for splits?

>>109250296
>splits are for...
I'm all in on them already after typing on it for like an hour at most so far. it already feels extremely comfortable and I'm pretty sure as soon as I figure out my layers and my C and P issues I'll be beating my old wpm records easily.
plus it's really nice that you can move the right half out of the way for extra mousepad space for gaming
>>
>>109250582
mx tilter kit from 3dkeycap.
not as good as native, but at least you can test it on your normal one without spending too much.
>>
I don't know maybe you just having fun by having my attention, but such arguments would never convince me. "Go get!" "Go buy!" "This is best" I think I hear this on every bazar. Entry level marketing.

And to further calm you down, I already bought the switches I wanted.

If you wish to receive further attention, develop your argument in an interesting way.
>>
File: regfdg.png (213 KB, 475x412)
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Were the graced click bars of our anon present,
Who may I rather challenge for click jackets
Than pity for mischance.
>>
>tented Alice
>>
is it haram to use Tangies in 2030-4?
>>
>fuck around with the short spacebar for the n-th time
>try to bend it just the right way so that it won't bind when slowly pressing down
>the right clip of the stabilizer wire mount is bent but hopefully won't snap
>end up pushing the spring into the barrel like a retard when trying my luck to remount the spacebar without lifting the keyboard
>pull it back out, it's a little bent sideways but it actuates
>the spacebar feels heavier now but it works and doesn't seem to suffer from any binding
Yeah I'm gonna have to do open the assembly again and do a proper inspection of every single flipper, spring and barrel, one by one, to ensure everything is lined up correctly.
>>
>>109252106
ol' Joe gave you the real DIY experience
you got more for your money's worth
>>
why is my MO key not working? it's sending my current PDF layer's keys instead of the layer it's supposed to be using.
>>
>>109252502
I mean, I'm not all that mad, it's a fun experience dealing with this type of keyboard and getting it just right. Hits the right type of 'tism for me. It's just that I don't want to end up with a broken spacebar, so I'll just order an extra before he sends the replacements.
>>
@grok, should I replace my gateron reds with cherry mx2a silent reds?
>>
File: shitandruin.png (354 KB, 670x1123)
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This GB was supposed to have SHIPPED 2 years ago.
>>
>>109252770
fuck no
get either of these
>https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/products/wingtree-x-lichicx-pink-pink-35g-silent-linear-pcb-mount-switch
>https://unikeyboards.com/products/wekt-lucy-r5-silent-linear-switch-factory-lubed-10pcs
>>
Are keychron keyboards fully modifiable? I see a bunch of hexagon-shaped screws underneath, and no stickers blocking them. Not sure if there's anything under the rubber feet. Some of the key presses are acting up even after swapping some switches around (Enter key for example doesn't always activate, but sometimes actives 3 times within one press, same with shift key), so I'm thinking I should replace the PCB. If I can do it myself without having to send it back that would be nice. Still under warranty but I don't want to deal with customer service atm if it's fixable on my end.
>>
Owlab or tp ax for screw in stabs
>>
>>109253008
neither
get the Fourwraps V2 stabs
>>
>>109253225
What’s the difference what are the benefits
>>
>>109253425
newer design, better experience
same price, if not cheaper.
>>
File: 0pw847ki68ue1.jpg (437 KB, 4032x3024)
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VROOM VROOM
>>
>mfw in my constant attempts to get the short spacebar stabilizer right I broke off the left stabilizer tab due to fatiguing it too much
It's really fucking annoying to get it right due to how the right tab is positioned right by the end of the stabilizer wire compared to the full length one. I do have spare tabs and I think they're just glued in, but I'm gonna get another spare set just in case.
>>
>>109256161
oof
>>
>>109256646
I wonder if I could DIY tabs like these, they're just a small metal bit with tho alignment bumps that seem to be glued in. Maybe make ones out of thicker metal. Either way, I have spares and I'll get another spare set, you can never have too many spare parts when you're a retard like me. Right now I managed to get it running okay-ish with the broken tab and lifting the right tab really high, doesn't seem to bind but it is rattly without the left tab obviously.
>>
>>109256661
3D scan
3D print
>>
>>109257857
No 3D printer
Also they should be metal cuz bending = adjustment
Like, cutting a thin metal sheet to the right length, then bending it in the right spots would be half the battle, then doing the two bumps for alignment.
>>
File: YC-CYBER.png (232 KB, 407x527)
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r9 my new mouse
>>
>>109258549
cybertruck/10
>>
Where I am right now with my F122 journey:
>Joe gave me a few helpful hints on how to un-fuck my spacebar
>the left spacebar tab is gone, need to figure out how to mount a proper replacement
>the spacebar wire is fucked, will have to bend a new one (the short spacebar has issues not documented in the manual)
>order with the replacements and extras is placed, payment should go through tomorrow
So now I have to figure out how to approach attaching the left tab, and bend a new wire where one end is a milimeter shorter to account for the issues of the short spacebar. Fun. Love doing overpriced DIY projects.
>>
File: This is -mkg- .png (272 KB, 650x488)
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>>109258549
This is keyboard general
>>
File: dfghtrh.png (54 KB, 1200x543)
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holy copeD
>>
>>109259399
>built-in upselling
fleece 'em Joe!
>>
>>109259669
I wouldn't have this issue if I didn't choose to do a short spacebar mod myself. For once it's my fault, not Joe's. Well, in part it's his for not mentioning anything about the short spacebar being different in the manual, but then again, most people don't seem to be aware the short spacebar is an option to begin with. The stock 7U spacebar ran just fine so it's all on me really, I gotta fix my own fuck-ups here.
Joe gave the right hint to shorten one side of the stabilizer wire but like I said, it'll be better for me to DIY a new one with local materials, and besides that it's a matter of attaching a replacement I already have on hand, of which I ordered extras just to be sure.
Joe's paying for shipping this time around since three keycaps broke in transit so he offered to send those covering the cost of the keycaps and shipping while giving me a chance to bundle in small extras of my choosing so I got a few extra keycaps as well, like the green Alt Model M style modfiiers and some extra stuffing for the left hand keys.

Given all the horror stories people had with Joe, my experience with him has been solid so far honestly. Maybe I just so happen to resonate on similar neurodivergent wavelengths with him.
>>
File: ewfsdfs.png (1.91 MB, 1234x1205)
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people used to pay out the ass for this
>>
File: 1759841091110120.png (246 KB, 2687x802)
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Got a new record, my goal for the longest time since I learned touch typing was to reach 200 wpm or get at least close to it, currently typing on a Mac keyboard, if I were to get a proper Mechanical keyboard, would there be improvement right away? How much improvement?
>>
File: sdfsdfs.png (2.13 MB, 1840x1035)
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>guise do I use these fucking standoffs that came with the keyboard hurr grug
>>
File: ergsdffwse.png (2.25 MB, 1840x1035)
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>oh man I can't believe the board sounds nice after I built it the way it was fucking meant to be built
>>
MX Blacks for the clacks
>>
>>109259797
U80-A is still my favorite keyboard of all time
>>
any good recommendations for choc keycaps? I did the blank keycap meme and its obviously shitty. all the places that I look have reviews saying the posts break easily. I just want some black keycaps with good labeling that wont break.
>>
File: firefox_PNcj22SqtG.png (1.21 MB, 844x844)
1.21 MB PNG
>>109249413
2 out of 4 responses so far, both negative as to being able to source or produce the material
i've wound up buying 2x sets of it off aliexpress. will post the finished build (elora) here when the switches and caps arrive in roughly a week or two :^)
>>
>>109261877
does it really type well
looks like dampened slop
though I do really really like the way it looks
total dream board for using SA caps due to its chonky profile
>>
>>109261980
just get CFX profile caps
>https://chosfox.com/collections/cfx-keycaps
>>
zFrontier's native Chinese storefront has a LOT of listed stuff that you simply can't get anywhere else today. Not from any of the known vendors, nowhere at all.
Once you navigate it and get a forwarder to handle the buying and shipping, it's just the easiest thing in the world to get the rare stuff they have. I took the chance and it worked out perfectly!
>>
File: Mudbeam.jpg (2.35 MB, 6120x6878)
2.35 MB JPG
GMK Mudbeam, got lucky with a 618 discount that zF had going on their site.
>>
File: Command 65 R2.jpg (3.13 MB, 6773x3849)
3.13 MB JPG
And a really nice Command 65 on a discount. I love it
>>
Think a fucking ant shorted my spacebar.

Budget: $200
Location: USA
Switch type: I have no idea, I'm used to membrane mush. Linear I guess.
Layout: ANSI
Form: 100% but a few extra keys for macros would be nice.
Lighting: RGB isn't essential. At least some kind of backlight.
Previous: Steelseries Apex RAW

Mostly just want to play friendslop and roguelikes and not have to worry about buying a keyboard for another decade or two.
>>
File: 1781518959934879.png (1.11 MB, 828x783)
1.11 MB PNG
These replacement tabs are a bitch. Joe sends you the exact same parts that are used in the factory, but unpainted. The real issue is that the factory solder will end up leaving bumps if you pry it off, so you can't just put the replacements in the same spot as then it'll be higher than it should be. Joe suggests gluing them with the bumps facing up and placing them in a different spot which I don't like the idea of, I'd like to glue it in in the exact same spot and height, but these two bumps are not allowing me to make the mount flush.

Now I'm thinking about taking some manual drill to have the right control over what I'm doing and carefully attacking these with small diameter drill bits, just enough control and pressure so that I get rid of the excess material and leave two grooves so that the replacement tab will be perfectly flat with the original mounting holes. The alternative would be disassembling the whole thing to be left with just the top assembly, which would mean opening the inner assembly, taking out every single barrel, then removing the inner foam, just to make two tiny holes in that big ass steel plate, which is suboptimal to say the least, but it would mean that I could use a power drill without worrying I'll damage the foam or the PCB if I went too hard on it.
>>
File: 1783443234549696.png (1020 KB, 768x720)
1020 KB PNG
Also I already attacked it a little so there's less oxidation on the spot, but the issue of the remains of the factory mounting messing with the replacement is much the same, I gotta find a way to make a delicate hole on these, otherwise I'll have to do a full disassembly just to prep it for a glue-in replacement.
>>
>>109265475
whatever's cheap on Amazon rn
>>
>>109266037
>>109266071
fucking depressing
all that effort making brand new molds for that 1:1 IBM feel
zero R&D to modernize the internals
don't tell me pseuds get off to this janky assembly I thought it was all about buckling springs
>>
>>109266149
>zero R&D to modernize the internals
I mean, Joe's approach to the spacebar wire is way better than IBM's that needed disassembling the whole thing every time you wanted to pop it off. All the shit I'm dealing with rn stems from my retardation, if I didn't break that damn tab and got Joe's hint on the shorter spacebar beforehand I wouldn't be facing this issue right now.
Some of the springs are a little off, I bent the spring on the spacebar switch, the M key spring for example takes a few attempts to align with the key, but they all buckle just fine. The K key is a little ass and the capacitance level difference on it is right on the edge, yet it registers no problem, the controller is doing it's job. The worst I had to deal with was the numpad plus that would stick, but a little Krytox helped it rebounce.

Seriously, for all the horror stories people had with Joe's repros, my experience has been stellar so far. Right now I bent the spacebar tab according to Joe's suggestion and it's working pretty good on just that right tab, of course it rattles like a motherfucker but it registers reliable so that's one less issue. Now all that's left to do to make it perfect is get the replacement tab on there, and get the replacement keycaps for the ones that broke in shipping and it'll be golden.
>>
creamy Baion



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