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08/21/20New boards added: /vrpg/, /vmg/, /vst/ and /vm/
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File: 1790186057903778.jpg (3.87 MB, 8160x6120)
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Newfag makes a thread edition

>Keyboard recommendation template:
https://pastebin.com/n220xk9V

>Find vendors
https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list // Up-to-date list of reputable vendors with brief descriptions
https://keycaplendar.firebaseapp.com // Tracker for current and upcoming keycap group buys

>This keyboard stuff is so expensive!
https://aliexpress.com (or Taobao if you know how)

>Learn about MX-type switches ("mechanical keyboard switches")
https://rentry.org/mkg_switches // Introductory guide
https://www.theremingoat.com // Switch reviews
https://www.switchesdb.com // Compare force curves

>Split and non-standard layout resources
https://compare.splitkb.com
https://keyboard-design.com

>What does ______ do to a keyboard's sound?
https://blacksimon.tv/science (Google sheet)

>Practice typing
https://monkeytype.com
https://keybr.com
https://thetypingcat.com
https://play.typeracer.com

>How Cherry switches do backlighting, and why it's not ideal
https://rentry.org/mkg_backlight
>>
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>mogs everyone ITT
>>
>>110217636
do they have backlight?
>>
>>110217672
You need to 10x your productivity for that wagie
>>
>>110217565
Why do you need keyboards in the age of AI?
>>
>>110218037
So I can type this message to tell you to use better bait.
>>
>>110217565
I need to escape from my country before I can buy a mechanical keyboard
>>
hey, bump!
>>
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>>
Should I get Gateron Baby Kangaroo V2 switches if I want inexpensive tactiles?
>>
>>110223568
Haven't heard anything bad about 'em, go for it.
>>
I've been thinking about getting a properly cut single piece of foam to put into my F122 to reliably reduce it's hollowness, but I have no idea how I could even start with that without a 3D scanner. Like, I take off the bottom plate, now I could theoretically place the keyboard onto some material that'll take the shape of the hollow space within the keyboard and have the reference as for what shape the foam should be. I don't know, I'm running out of ideas as to what to use and how to not make it sound hollow. Once I managed to get it sounding less hollow, now it sounds more hollow, and I don't know what I did wrong now that worked before. The foam on the bottom plate can't work due to how the inner assembly curve is perfectly aligned with where the bottom plate is at so there's zero tolerances on that particular part of the curve.

Like, I get why Joe opted for a metal case and it feels solid as shit. But the hollowness, it's such a pain in the ass to deal with due to this curve and tight tolerances.
>>
I've been trying to do research on the Epomaker RT82 and the general opinion seems to be split between 'really good feeling when typing and great value' to 'unreliable crap that fails within months'. Aula and Keychron seem to have the same reputation. I'm getting it as a gift so I'd hate for it to fail in a such a short time.

Alternatively, I'm willing to hear recommendations for a similar board for $110 or under, linear switches and tkl or 75%.
>>
I have seen the light
>SELL EVERYTHING
>USE ONLY TOPRE
>>
lol
>>
does no one use a custom anymore or what?
>>
mechanical equivalent of k120?
>>
>>110225133
buy a £20 membrane and buy another in 5 years. don't fall for the mechanical memes
>>
>>110228833
guess that answers it
makes sense tbf all the cool GBs ran between 2022-25.
>>
Thoughts on 40% keyboards?
>>
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>>110229684
Forgot image
>>
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My ducky year of the snake 2013 with blue switches is still going strong, I'm still typing with it perfectly fine. Almost every day in use.
>>
>>110217565
I missed you guys, my build is coming along. Just trying to work out some kinks. Having trouble finding the right switch and weight for my space bar. I'm accidentally double spacing words sometimes. I'm using speed switches with a 1mm actuation and they are nice but I think for the spacebar I might need to go back to a normal 2mm actuation because I think it's just too easy to hit it when I don't mean to.
Still I succeeded in my main goals of making it super light and feels mostly good to type on. Once I'm happy with it I'll post some pics.
>>
>>110224931
What about filling it with silica gel beads? Can't hurt the insides and will fill up every bit of space.
>>
>>110229684
Gives up too much, I tried one and sent it back in a couple of weeks. I can't live without my ' key.
>>
Hope some new keyboard tech comes along some day to give us a reason to rebirth this general. I'm going to miss it, I learned a lot. Oh well, guess I'll have to show off my build on leddit.
>>
>>110228640
I built 2 customs 3+ years ago (aluminum body + all of the foams and inserts + non-china-clone keycap set) and they're still going strong so I don't see any reason to build another keyboard
I'm only considering getting some new switches to try out a tactile switch for my home keyboard that uses kailh box pinks right now
>>
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>>110217565
lads. I haven't cleaned my keyboard in over a decade
>>
>>110232616
that's a bit much. I try to clean mine at least once every couple of years (key caps off at least).
That being said, I have an old model M, and I have yet to clean it (worried about damaging it). Anyone have a decent guide on how to tackle it? Searching for model m on the internet just brings up a bunch of new clones.
>>
>>110232616
You have an unmedicated mental illness. At least scrub off the top of that space bar and the alt key.
>>
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>>110228640
Been using boards I made myself for years now, including designing my own PCBs.
>>
>>110229684
>>110229693
ortholinear non-split like in the pic is fucking awful, but if it's split it's probably fine
>>
>>110232636
>Anyone have a decent guide on how to tackle it?
Very carefully. Definitely don't try to disassemble it fully as it wasn't designed for that, which is why the whole bolt mod kerfuffle affects the Model M's and why the Model F's were considered so much better for longevity. You could be non-invasive about it and pull off the keys with a standard wire key puller, clean them one by one, clean around the barrels, then put the keys back on.

When cleaning, be careful with the keys as the stems are a part of the mechanism, if you break them the key's gone. When putting them back on, place the keyboard on the desk vertically so that the spacebar is facing upwards, you basically want all the springs to fall down at that angle so that they latch onto the key and buckle properly. If you were to take off a key as the keyboard sits flat on the desk, you'll be able to roughly see how that buckling spring mechanism works. The spring needs to sit at the 12 o' clock position so that it properly latches onto the nub on the key, or else it won't buckle correctly, and you risk damaging the spring.

While my only experience with buckling springs comes from Joe's Model F repro, it's not all that different in practice really. There's a reason the keys are interchangeable between Model F's and Model M's. If anything you could use his manual videos for assembly as guidance for any buckling spring keyboard. His repros, Unicomps, vintage IBM's, it's all the same mechanical principles.
>>
>>110233801
>You could be non-invasive about it and pull off the keys with a standard wire key puller, clean them one by one, clean around the barrels, then put the keys back on.
Yeah, it's not that dirty, so I doubt I'd need to take it apart.
Sounds like a pain in the ass, thanks anon.
>>
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>>110233840
>Sounds like a pain in the ass
Not really, the worst thing that could happen with a Model M is that the plastic rivets deteriorated with age, by which point you'll have to bolt/screw mod it. If that didn't happen, it's fairly easy. I went through bigger pains in the ass with my F122 repro than re-seating the keys, that part is trivial.

Picrel is how you're meant to hold a buckling spring keyboard for re-attaching the keys, it's the easiest way to keep all the springs seated at a point where they'll line up with the key nub. Move the spring up with your finger in that position if you want to get the idea why and how, it's a very simple switch mechanism. Then you test if it both buckles and actuates, as it could buckle without actuating, and that needs re-seating.
>>
>>110217636
>F5 F5 F5 F5
how refreshing
>>
>>110233886
oh, I don't have a problem pulling the key caps off, I meant the taking it apart etc. I've read your chronicles here, thanks anon.
Shouldn't be an issue, I'll pull a couple and see how bad it is, really doesn't look dirty but I've never actually cleaned it, and I want to put it up (fucker takes up lot of space).
>>
>>110233910
Yeah disassembling a Model M is a PITA and you can only do it once, after that it's bolt/screw mod. It's not necessary if all you're gonna do is clean crumbs and dust, it's hard for those to get under the keys and into the barrels so surface level cleaning should suffice if you're expecting it to have an average level of grime on it.
>>
>>110229684
How do you type '40%' on one
>>
>>110233894
i see what you did there
>>
>>110233943
It's just light dust, I don't daily it. Happen to know if there's any do's or don'ts on the key caps? I was planning on putting them in a big bowl of warm soapy water (dish soap) and let them soak a bit before rinsing them off. Will the ink or whatever they're printed with be ok? Thanks again anon
>>
>>110234001
If they're dye-sub then it shouldn't be an issue, and IIRC IBM did dye-sub for the beige ones from start to finish, only the TrackPoint WoB ones were pad printed and wore out like crazy but those are unicorns now. Warm soapy water shouldn't cause any issues like that. Try finding a photo of worn legends on a Model M, if they held up decades of use like that then they won't care about warm water.
>>
>stem swap MX Blacks with full travel linear stems designed to sound higher pitched and clackier
>sounds great on individual switches in my hand
>sounds terrible inside a keyboard with a keycap on
fuck MX Blacks.
>>
MX Clacks
>>
MX Gays
>>
Bought my bro an Aula F108 Pro w/ Caramel Lattes (~$80), feels way better than my G Pro X TKL Lightspeed (GX browns) that cost 2x
Mine’s not hotswap
Is it worth modding (keycaps/foam/tape) or should I just sell it and get an Aula?
anything better than the F108 Pro / F87 Pro around $80?
>>
>>110236751
Just get an Aula, Logicrap doesn't benefit from any modding.
>>
browsing xhamster on my $1500 Glare TKL hits different
>>
>>110232636
I have couple of IBM M keyboards and just cleaned it like every other keyboard. They're tough chances of fucking something up are minimal. So just like wet wipes and vacuum stuff in between the keys.
>>
>>110234001
>Happen to know if there's any do's or don'ts on the key caps?
Friend fucked his M keycaps but tossing them into dishwasher at too high temp. Caps kinda deformed here and there and started binding when mounted back onto keyboard.
I also never disassembled M keyboard despite some coming from landfill and being full of sand and dirt and they still never failed.
>>
Budget -- £80~100
Location -- UK
Switch -- Anything close to blue, its all ive used
Layout -- UK ISO
Form factor -- 80% TKL
Lights -- Not too fussed a solid light can be usefull i guss
Prev keyboards- I've used a ducky shine 3 for the last 10 years and its fianlly giving in. Do they do an equivlaent nowdays? I dont mind buying off Ali aslong as its uk iso
>>
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>>
>>110240334
Well that's not good, that's not good at all. How did that happen?
>>
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>>110240478
Someone probably put pressure on the socket without supporting it from the back of the PCB. Many such cases.



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