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First time ever wrenching. Replaced my rear struts with some Bilsteins.

>>28911144
Nice claw hammer. :)

>>28911144
Nice. Those rotors look well used. Maybe your next job will be brakes :-)

>>28911144
>ruated to fuck
>McDonald's strut
There was no point in fooling with any of that shit

>>28911360
You clearly have no idea what rust is

>>28911362
I'm looking at that caliper, the whole car is done dude just sell it know that you got your little chinkshit dampers installed

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>>28911370
I'm surprised that you're even able to breathe (which you are doing manually now btw) with your IQ.

How do you remove a stuck timing chain cover? I 100% removed all the side bolts and nuts and also removed the bolts going through the oil pan an this piece of shit won't budge. I managed to slide a box cutter knife between the cover and cylinder head but it didn't help.

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>>28911148
Hahaha fuuuuck
>>28911243
Rotors are calipers are on the list definitely.
>>28911360
McDonald struts? They're Bilstein B6. And the car has been undercoated every year since new, it's just surface rust. My local shop has actually mentioned how little rust is on the car without being prompted. The calipers do need some love though.

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I made a shitty drip tray to keep my VQ from pissing various fluids directly into my alternator.

>>28911766
>McDonald struts
It's a joke. He's making fun of your McPherson struts. Don't listen to him. You did gud.

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>>28911766
>McDonald struts? They're HECKING Bilstein B6!!!!

Did an oil service and replaced the cabin filter on my wife's Mk3 Focus today.
Then repaired the lawn mower.

>>28911360
shoo shoo, back to india you go

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>>28911360
Slowfaglet stancefaglet spiclet calicuck wrenchlet weedlet glocklet... and probably a closet homosexual

Changing oil for the first time on a new car, should I get an identical OEM filter or does it matter?

>>28912269
Get wix

>>28912463
You just gotta call em dawg. Are you doing delivery?

>>28911435
tap it to the sides with a mallet all around or wherever you have access

>>28912486
Did you have to pay the lift gate fee?

>bro enlists my help with a pad and rotor change for a guy's 201X mini from some forum or something
>all is well till we get to the last corner, the back right wheel
>caliper is in service mode but piston wont go back in any further
>try alternating between turning it clockwise and pushing it in
>still not enough room for the pads, wtf
>bro tries turning piston with some pliers although i already tried
>piston boot must've gotten caught because it tore and sprung a leak
fml. put it all back together and to my surprise it didn't spew fluid when the brake is used, but there was a slow drip.
didn't charge the guy but had to tell him that he needed to take it to a brake shop, he ended up getting it towed by insurance because he wanted to play it safe. bro told me afterwards that he told the guy before that he didn't really want to do this because of the electric parking brake and that we weren't professionals but he insisted.

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Hope this is worth it. $1000 just for front brakes.

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>Peugeot
>makes centerless rims for a decade in the early 2000s
>pain in the ass to balance
>refuses to elaborate

>>28913118
What about that wheel is "centerless"?

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mmmm nylon

>05 chevy silverado gets a code for a "P0059 Heater circuit resistance for heated oxygen sensor in bank 2 sensor 1 is out of range."
>cost of parts and tools seems to be 40-80$
>know a good mechanic that isn't too expensive and does good work, but tight on money nowadays.
I know fuck-all about cars. The replacement seems simple enough, but the more I'm worried about fucking something up and unknowingly damaging another part of the car from lack of expertise. Is there anything I should know/worry about before I try to replace it or should I just go to my mechanic?

>>28916988
Replacing an 02 sensor is ez. You got this. You're not going to break anything else in the process.

>>28912492
Nah, wd40 and his mom's vibrator.

>>28913960
No hole, unlike buddy's mom.

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I'm rebuilding my brake calipers and I can't get the piston seal on completely. Is there something I'm doing wrong, or is just this aftermarket part bad quality? It's an E46 and I bought Autofren kit, because the ATE one is no longer made.

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Good evening guys, hope u are all great. Sorry if bed england.
My dear shitbox ('03 Palio) started having clutch problems and the mechanix said it was around $400 to fix it. I have 0 money cause indian+jobless+retarded so i figured I could do it myself.
Well after some time I finally got around doing it, its my first big repair (the only thing I had done before was changing some brake discs) and so far I think it's going kind of good, tho I've run into a lot of problems.
Well today I finally managed to drop the transmission and I saw what the problem was, as u can see the clutch release bearing was completely fucked and it barely moved when the fork was pulled.
It was kind of cool actually seeing it cause it obviously made sense. The gears wouldn't catch even when I pushed the clutch all the way in, and when I forced them, you'd hear this awful grinding sound that was likely the pressure plate teeth breaking (some of the tips were pretty chipped). As someone who's doing this for the first time it was like 'duh'
I cleaned as much as I could and then I replaced the clutch. Here comes my question. The clutch plate was a bit loose between the pressure plate and the flywheel so when I tightened the screws it ended up being a little bit below from the center. I wanted to ask u guys if this is okay or should I unscrew the pressure plate and try to center the clutch disc as much as possible. Its just a tiny bit, but I guess it could make putting the transmission back on really difficult.
Also I don't have one of those clutch guides to insert there so do you guys have any tips for that? I'll be trying to put everything back together tomorrow. It'll probably be the hardest part of all this.
Thanks in advance if anyone can help. Also since I actually started this like a month ago I forgot how to install the other pieces back lol. I might have to come here to ask for help.

>>28920106
Clutch disc needs to be visibly centered or you will have a lot of trouble getting the transmission back on. Some people use a broom handle. Some people have 3d printed a clutch centering tool.

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God dammit
I'm gonna have to buy these from Ford S they'll be $140 for about 14 cents of plastic, aren't I?

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>>28920205
Only one bring clean off. The other only half separated. I don't think I scuffed the plastic enough to let the jb weld adhere to the surface, I was mostly going for total reinforcement at the fragile spot to just push in again and hopefully be just fine forever.

>>28920106
>>28920110
usually the clutch kit you buy will have a plastic alignment tool unless it's some bargain basement special that cut every cost they could

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This is so frustrating

>>28911370

>the whole car is done

Why are you even on a wrenching thread?

>>28920106
Youll need a clutch alignment tool. Not expensive, just a little plastic rod and cone that sticks through to align the clutch. When its on and tightened up you release it and bolt it on.

>>28920213
Ive had stronger repairs with plastic welding. Get some of the same style of plastic (usually abs or hdpe) as a filler rod and melt and mix it in with a shitty old sodding iron. Bonus if you melt in some window screen mesh for extra strength. Looks like shit but usually done on the backside of a plastic part.
The JB weld has a very hard time sticking to plastic and when it fails parts of it will pop off like it was never there. I think its higher stiffness compared to plastic is a problem.
Sometimes hot glue does surprisingly well on plastic for a nondestructive repair. It holds on to the plastic better than JB but once its set you can still pick and pull it off if you need to get back in.

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fixed the blown head gasket on my diesel jetta, the head was warped so I glued sand paper to a glass table and sanded it flat

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>>28920467
Fixed

>>28920467
>>28920469
damn what a difference. howd you go about dragging the head across the glass, did you just move it in a figure-8 pattern or circles etc. and how long did it take?

>>28920469
Very cool. Please update after some miles if the head gasket does or doesnt have follow up issues. I'm interested in this technique. Only ever seen it on smaller motorcycle heads.

So I'm eyeing that Volvo S40 which one guy is selling next to my place. Manufactured in 2007, gasoline 2.4 engine. Had a test drive and it was decent, the only problem I might have with it is the rear left swing arm. Any good anon could tell me anything more I could expect from that car? Those engines are pretty reliable and electronics are minimal, but as usual with 15+yo cars it's the suspension and frame that I am the most worried about...
If anyone has any special VIN checking soft or subscription I could post it too, it's better to know what was previously done to it.

>>28920628
>Those engines are pretty reliable and electronics are minimal
Anything but. It's an expensive european "premium" car trying to compete with BMW.

>>28920469
That is the dumbest V8 IJ've ever seen . The block is way too "fat", is this for a really big turbo car with a big turbo?

>>28920630
Hmm so you're saying it's not worth the effort? Sadly I don't get to be picky...

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>>28920445
>The JB weld has a very hard time sticking to plastic
I was in a rushed panic, not completely sure why. I think I had it in my mind an ultrasonic welding tool was needed and not a soldering iron. My plan was to finish the project this weekend so I wanted the epoxy to have time to fully cure in this colder weather. My second thought was to fill that cavity with hot glue, but I quickly remembered Texas heat in the summer would likely melt that anyway. Or is it once hot glue is heated and melted it has a much higher melting temp? I don't know, I just assume it'll get to 150 in the cab, I guess if hot glue melts at 200+ it couldn't hurt to try that too just to give it more mass at least.

Like you said, if it fails it should easily come off (famous last words) and I can try melting it and/or hot gluing. I don't have any idea where to get ABS filler rod so I may grab some garbage in the garage and melt it on. Any suggestions on donor plastic?

It does give me some misery loves company vibes of so many broken panels listed for sale on ebay.

>>28920110
>>28920422
thanks boys, I'll center the fuck of that disc, probably with a broom as anon suggested.
>>28920238
No, the damn thing didn't come in the kit haha, some third world shit. I even bought the 'expensive' option in one of the only 2 stores that sell Fiat parts in my city. Just the bearing, clutch and pressure plates.

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>>28920478
>howd you go about dragging the head across the glass
just a forward and backward motion about 1000 times, flipping it around every once in a while, probably not necessary to do that but can't hurt
took about 6 hours but I was using 220 grit, would have taken less than half that if I use 80 grit but finding wet/dry 80 grit is apparently really fucking hard
>>28920602
drove the car about 100 miles so far with no issues, the cylinders were cracked between the valves on every cylinder, after some reading this happens to every single 1.5/1.6 VW IDI engine and as long as you can't fit a dime into the crack they're good to go (allegedly)

>>28920903
>as long as you can't fit a dime into the crack they're good to go (allegedly)
Can you fill with jb weld?

>>28920650
JB weld, hot glue, plastic welding all work to some degree. Just sharing whats worked for me. Hopefully you dont need to do anything more.
Hate brittle plastics. I want a 3d scanner to remake interior panels. Theyre coming down to 500usd used for a good one.

>>28916988
All you need is liquid wrench/pblaster, and maybe the special wrench or socket that fits over the sensor.

>>28917694
Did you grease it? I would use a flat piece of wood to smack it on. It's supposed to be snug.

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>>28920908
suppose its just best to leave it alone and let it chill, if the engine decides to give any problems I'll just put one of my ALH from the 99-03 VWs in it, I have like 10 of those laying around and can make a stand alone harness in a few hours

>>28920940
When the EMPs start going off, you're going to be laughing at everyone else.

>>28920921
can hot glue re-melt in a hot car?

>>28920990
Didn't for me or my car on the backside of the gearshift surround but I suppose yeah in theory.

>>28920990
No.

>>28921086
>>28921095
I'm gonna skip it. As I said before, I was in a rushed panic and I'm going to do the super glue and baking soda trick IF the JB weld doesn't work. The speakers aren't terribly heavy and the panel has a 7mm screw at the bottom. The issue is getting those clips back into the slots.

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Replaced these worn bump stops (pic) on my Z4.

I'm a poor who recently moved to a place where I have a garage of my own. When I replaced the oil pan (cus stripped threads on old one, should've just re-threaded but ah well) on my 99 prizm, one of the bolts snapped in half (half a pinkie fingernail deep in the hole). I tried a left-hand bit to get it out but couldn't get a good angle and didn't wanna ruin the threads on block side. So I filled the hole (that has part of a bolt in it still) with my rtv and it stayed dry for a few months. But now it's very very slow leaking. Anything a poor with next to zero specialized tools can do?

Feel like the correct solution is somehow welding a thinner bolt to the existing stuck bolt part then screwing that out and screwing in a new bolt. But IDK shit about welding and I'd have to get my car up pretty damn high for that to be remotely possible.

Should you use copper grease between the hub and brake disk?

>>28921262
No problem with doing it. In rusty climates it can seize in place, same as the disc to the wheel itself but it's sort of rare. Probably takes many years to develop. Some think most of the seizing happens close to the center of the hub so focus the antiseize there.

>>28921258
The bolt broke deep within the block? Thats kind of rare. If theres still a couple of turns of threads on the block visible I would try cutting a new bolt shorter or just stacking washers until you can tighten it snug, and just be careful to not overtorque and pull out what few threads are left in the block.
You can also just live with the oil leak.

>>28921353
oh shit wow, I had a mega retard moment, duh shorter bolt might do the trick! Can't remember exactly how deep it goes it might've still been in pan thread instead of block thread but if it isn't then I'm one lucky son of a bitch! It is livable so far but this is my only leak free car and I really wanna keep it that way, it's parked out on the nice driveway.

2002 Avalon idles rough and runs like shit on deceleration. At idle, the tach hunts between 500 and 1000. Cleaned the throttle body twice. Replaced IACV, replaced crankshaft position sensor, bypassed MAF, bypassed EGR solenoid, cleaned camshaft position sensor. Drained and filled tranny fluid. Codes P0300, 302, 304, 306. Cannot find a vacuum leak.

Gonna do the VVT and replace camshaft sensor properly, see if that fixes it. If it doesn't, I'll do plugs and coils next. Don't really know what I'm doing, just googling shit and playing with it

Fucking shifter pin on my 300td is stuck so fucking bad I gave up working on it for like six weeks fmnl

>>28921467
Here's your (You), but I think you can do better if you apply yourself.

>>28921522
Not trolling, I found this board yesterday and was looking for advice if anyone has any. Juat want my car to run right and to say I fixed it DIY. In what world am I posting bait?

>>28921467
the bank with cylinder 2, 4, and 6 is fucking up. i doubt coils or plugs will help, but I think you're on to something with cam sensors. from a quick google those cylinders are all on the front bank of the engine. your other bank is fine, so I wouldn't mess with it if you can avoid it.

>>28920322
>1st gen taurus

let me guess, you bought one and it was too short

>>28921750
Your car is telling you exactly what is wrong with the four codes while you list off dozens of random unrelated things you replaced that didn't fix it. This is classic shotgun mechanic baitposting.

>>2892134
I opened with "I don't really know what I'm doing."

To your point, three spark plugs are coding, yes. I just find it a little sus that all three plugs and coils in the same bank are throwing codes at the very same time. What are the odds that all three plugs pooted put simultaneously. That logic led me to believe it was something electrical/sensor/vacuum related, not the plugs/coils themselves. Open to corrections about that because, for the third time, I don't know what I'm doing. It's why I'm here.

>>28922098
Sounds like you're following my train of thought a bit better, thank you for validating

>>28922109
No, I'm frustrated that if I want to buy both control arms, they're in different warehouses, so I'd have to pay for shipping twice.

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>>28922146
Short story up front: it ended up being the bank 2 VVT solenoid.

>>28922134
I will admit, you got into my head a little bit, because if anything, the one suggesting a shotgun here is you. I don’t work on cars a lot, but I do work on machines for a living, and I'm not retarded.

>car starts doing weird shit on decel
>feels like it’s about to stall
>idle is rough
>decel = load change, maybe trans?
>check trans fluid, sad and brown.
>drain and fill.
>no change
>rough idle = maybe air?
>clean throttle body
>when taking it off, notice this little valve just...open.
>car is off and it’s still open
>that doesn’t seem right,
>google it
>it’s called an IACV
>order one because they're cheap
>no fix, but old one was clearly bad.
>maybe it’s reading air wrong?
>unplug MAF
>car immediately runs worse
>alright, MAF is fine
>what about fuel
>fuel pump?
>nah, it would run bad all the time
>stick with air
>see vacuum diagram under hood
>start bypassing stuff one by one
>nothing changes
>cool, not vacuum
>remember I’ve got a cheap scanner somewhere
>misfires on 2, 4, 6
>entire bank? Three plugs at once?
>yeah I don’t buy that.
>they’ve got power, they’re grounded.
>this is something shared
>start looking at sensors
>find cam position sensors
>lower one is filthy
>doesn’t stick to metal
>replace it for $20
>still not fixed
>but again, clearly bad part gone
>keep googling
>see people talking about VVT issues causing rough idle.
>VVT is like $15 on Amazon
>worst case, I return it
>swap it out
>start car
>smooth as butter
>drive it
>no more weird decel
>idle steady
>check codes again
>misfires gone
>damn, this only cost me like $100 and two afternoons.
>car runs like it should

Glad I didn't:

>Have Autozone scan it
>shotgun plugs and coils at it for $200 like a dumbass.

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>>28920106
Hey guys its me again. Pls help me. I may have fucked up the whole car.
I just put everything back together and tested the car last night. It struggled to start but it wasnt anything crazy, the fuel pump sounded fine, the start was a bit weak so I gave it a bit of gas and I heard a slight crunching noise, so I turned it off to avoid damaging it. After that, it wouldn’t start again.
When I turn the key, the lights come on so to me it seemed the battery was fine, but the dashboard flickers, no fuel pump sound, and there’s an intermittent clicking sound coming from this little green box. I charged the battery last night, and today the fuel pump kicked in for a second, but then it shut off again and the clicking/pulsing sound came back from that green box.
Any idea what could be going on? Could I have burned or broken something?
If i turn the key to the starting position the starter sounds fine but it the car itself wont start. So hopefully Its only an electronics issue and i didnt blow the transmission or the engine or w/e

>>28923167
>clicking/pulsing sound
Check the battery to see if its just low on voltage/amperage, then check fuses and relays.

>>28923187
I charged it fully last night. On our other car it works np.
I'll check the fuses. Hopefully it wont be a big thing. No clue how to check the relays tho.
Thanks for the reply too

>>28923189
>No clue how to check the relays tho.
I don't know of a diagnostic test, maybe someone else here does? Perhaps just using a new relay for $10 and swapping it out to test? Relays can and do go bad with age and under certain circumstances, sorry I can't help you point in a more specific direction.

>>28923203
Spent my last few $ on the transmission fluid haha. Still thanks. Fuses are all fine. Grok says this likely happened because i didn't ground the battery correctly which is weird cause i connected it right where i pulled it from.
I'll also try the fuel pump by itself, i feel like it is as you said tho, probably just a relay

>>28922500
>I changed the transmission fluid and replaced the IAC valve hoping to resolve my misfire codes
>but you're the retard for suggesting I troubleshoot the codes instead
Okay.

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It’s over

>>28923218
Couldn't hurt to clean the terminals really well, and even re-seat the grounding cables. Bad grounds will cause all kinds of gremlins.

>>28923272
Mein nigger you are a fucking genius. I unironically asked grok and claude cause i had no idea what else to do. Was literally just about to give up. Then they suggested the same as you, it might be because of the ground. When reassembling the thing i forgot where one of the 2 negative cable ends was supposed to go (the other one was connected to the chassis and i thought that was enough to ground it) so i also put that other end to another random bolt.
Claude said it should go onto the transmission or engine and after checking some videos I managed to find where.
It starts! Thank you my boys.
Now i have another problem, which might be actually even worse. The wheels are spinning.... in neutral. Fuck me man. I hope its just the gear selector in the wrong position and not something crazy like the clutch plate was attached wrong. Wish me luck friends.

>>28923394
They stop spinning when I press the clutch, btw. Could it be that the clutch cable needs more tension?

>>28923394
>I hope its just the gear selector in the wrong position and not something crazy like the clutch plate was attached wrong.
To toot my own horn, I didn't look that up or ask AI, I just know electrical shit is a gigantic pain in the balls to deal with on older cars. But a decent trick is to use a wire brush, scrape both metal surfaces to get rid of the oxidation, clean it well, and bolt it down snug, wiggle the contacting metals again and torque the bolt down.
The other nonsense on older cars is where a tiny bit of wire insulation is missing on 2 wires causing an intermittent short.

As far as the wheels spinning if you can easily confirm it should be in neutral is you fucked up the clutch stack and/or pressure plates and may have to start over. I'm probably using the wrong words but apparently its a common rookie mistake of installing a new clutch. It looks right, but just isn't. You should also check the pressure release arm; some cars have janky setups where it'll rock back and forth but you're not on the right pivot point (or its simply worn down) simulating the clutch pedal always being 'out'.

Good luck dude, proud of you for working on your old car getting it going again!

>>28923410
I posted before this refreshed; something may be wrong with your linkage from the shifter to the transmission if the clutch pedal is pressed and the clutch disengages. That tells me its between the physical lever inside the cab and the transmission itself. Either linkage rods/cables, or worn arms on the exterior.

>>28923224

Go ahead and try to save face, parts swapper.

The tranny fluid was due anyway. I did troubleshoot the codes, just reasoned put that an entire bank of coils probably didnt all die at once.

If I did it your way, I'd have wasted an extra 200 bucks and still would've had to replace a bad IACV, done a drain and fill, and eventually land on the VVT.

Newsflash, engines need metered fuel, air, and oil. They also need to know where the camshaft is. I found issues with all those things, and now my engine getting the right air, oil, and info. On what planet would it have been smarter to just throw some plugs and coils at it for it not to work?

This is exactly why I dont hang out with "cay guise."

>>28923415
Thank u fren
>>28923418
Hmm You could be right but the gears go in fine when the cars is running, when the clutch is pressed (it's still lifted) I tensioned the cable but the spinning is still there on neutral.
Although I may not like it, maybe the clutch arm thingy wasn't in the right position when i installed it. Or maybe since I didn't have an alignment tool something shifted inside.
Grok says I may have installed the disc backwards haha, but no way because i checked the mark on the disc to the flywheel. It also says maybe I didn't screw one of the pressure plate bolts enough.
I'm very tempted to just lower the car and see if the spinning is too noticeable and if isn't
The only good thing about this is that now I atleast know what shit has to come off and what does not. Last time I took off a bunch of stuff that wasn't necessary.
Anyways, thank u all for the replies. Is a lot more fun and helpful having u guys guide me here. <3

>>28923461
>Or maybe since I didn't have an alignment tool something shifted inside.
The clutch didn't come with a plastic alignment tool? It fuckin should have and if not go buy one (or print one). You've done it once, disassemble it all and do it again going a little slower now that you know what you're doing. Also look for scuff/scrape marks indicating something rubbing due to incorrect installation.

>>28923189
>find a relay that works, but is non-essential, like for your horn or headlights. Does your horn honk? Then that's a good relay. Swap that good relay with your sus relay. If the problem goes away, then sus relay was bad.

Bonus: with the sus relay plugged in where the hirn relay was, does the horn still work? Of yes, sus relay isnt bad.

>>28923449
You are a parts shotgun mechanic if you think troubleshooting misfire codes means replacing plugs and coils with new ones.

>>28923486
No just replace them all just in case. Don't bother trying to figure out if that's actually the problem. They're old anyway.
t. mechanic pro

>>28923856
Yeah, that's why I didn't do that, found three actual problems and addressed them instead. My car is fixed, and as expected by reading the codes, plugs and coils weren't the problem. You're a salty retard, end of.

2000 Camry I4 (5sfe)
Last June I started having a misfire problem, and took several months to learn up on how it could be fixed.
Replaced the ignition coils (and plugs & wires) in February, which solved the misfire, but now the car wasn't increasing it's idle properly when I shifted in gear or turned the cabin air blower on.
Someone on a different forum suggested that it might be a stuck IAC valve, so over the past few days I tried spraying carb cleaner down the slot to where the valve is.
Seems to have done nothing, though; car still won't idle up.

I'm at a loss for what the issue is.
I'm kind of doubting it's the IAC valve, since it was working fine pre-misfire. I wouldn't expect anything to totally fail just from sitting for a few months.

>>28924959
Have you checked the MAF by chance?

Also, if the IACV is stuck closed instead of open, spraying carb cleaner up the vent won't do anything conclusive. You may want to take it off and look at it on a bench.

On my Yoder, there are coolant lines that run through the IAC housing so you'll want some hose clamps or a catch pan underneath

>>28925121
>Have you checked the MAF by chance?
No. Not even aware of how one checks that.

>Also, if the IACV is stuck closed instead of open, spraying carb cleaner up the vent won't do anything conclusive. You may want to take it off and look at it on a bench.
>On my Yoder, there are coolant lines that run through the IAC housing so you'll want some hose clamps or a catch pan underneath
I can't really take it off with any ease.

The two screws holding on the electromagnet portion are seized (impact screwdriver made zero difference) and stripped to hell (stripped it slightly with Phillips not knowing about JIS, and then any further attempts to unscrew those just stripped it worse, even with JIS tips).
The four screws holding the IACV to the throttle body are also seized, and I can't get an impact screwdriver in there (let alone a hammer to hit it with).
I also can't easily take the whole throttle body out of the engine, because the coolant hoses are stuck to the point where they'd have to be destroyed to get them off the fittings, and I fear what I'd have to go through just to replace those...

>>28925185
Oof, that’s rough. Not trying to talk down to you, but at that point I’d seriously consider finding a shop or someone older who’s dealt with seized screws and stuck hoses before. That stuff can turn into a mess quick if you force it.

If you do decide to fight it yourself, heat + penetrating oil and letting it sit can sometimes help with seized screws, but you’re already pretty deep into stripped territory, so just be careful.

I’d definitely try to rule out the IACV before moving on though, since your symptoms line up really well with it not opening under load.

Does the engine need to be completely cold (needle on blue) to drain the coolant? Mine takes forever to cool down.

>>28925556
The hotter it is, the more pressure is built up. It has to be cool enough that the pressure will not blow out and burn you when you take the cap off.

Open your overflow tank fist.

Take a thick towel, put it over your radiator cap and turn it SLOW. Be ready to let go at any time. After the cap is off, pressure is gone, and you're good to go.

I'm flushing the coolant in an E46, and the internet said, pour the distilled water/new coolant with engine off, heating on and bleed valve open. I did so, and barely any water got in and the low coolant light was on. I figured I have to do it with the engine on, so that it can suck in the water and suddenly, the old coolant that didn't drain, started vomiting from the bleed valve, am I doing something wrong? I poured the rest of distilled water because it actually started getting sucked from the expansion tank, turned off the engine, topped off the water, closed both the cap and bleed valve and there was no coolant light, engine got up to the temperature, didn't overheat, warm air was blowing.

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>1.5 months ago, replace transmission filter
>2 weeks ago notice a small transmission leak crawl under my car and see it's coming from the drain plug
>5 days ago finally crawl back under put gasket sealer around the drain plug, clean the entire area with break cleaner and top off my fluids
>everything is good no leaks
>except engine oil is low and it's about time for a change
>loaned my oil filter wrench to my dad
>meh ill take it to Walmart can't beat a $20 oil change
>yesterday am take it to Walmart
>talk to the kid and ask him to tell me if transmission is still leaking
>oil change everything is good kid says no leaks now I don't have to worry about my car for a while
>last night roommate says car is leaking
>go outside and it looks like a gallon of transmission fluid dumped
>jack it up and it it spewing fluid from seal around my transmission pan
>absolutely diffrent plance than it was leaking before
>some of the bolts are super loose
>tighten them quickly but leak don't stop
>this am
>call walmart and ask what the fuck, did you accidentally loosen the wrong bolts?!!?
>tell me to bring it to them
>cancel Saturday plans
>take itbback to walmart they say yeah I don't know why it's leaking, but it wasn't us lol
>tech takes me out and shows me loose bolts
>why didn't you use a torque wrench when you put your pan on?
>I use locktite i don't have a torque wrench
>well this is obviously your problem kick rocks
.
.
I'm so pissed how the fuck did it magically start leaking from a new place
Immediately after getting a oil change?!?
I gotta change my gasket for sure
It's 2 bolts to change the filter again, should I just go ahead and do that too?

>>28925733
sounds like when you first started filling it, there was air trapped in the lines that hadn’t made its way out through the bleed screw yet. Because of that, the system wouldn’t take much coolant, since the air was basically blocking it.
Then when you started the engine, the water pump ran, and that trapped air got pushed out through the bleed screw. As the air burped out, it created space for the coolant to finally move in and fill the system properly.

Once it cools off completely, I’d double-check the coolant level, but it sounds like you’re probably in the clear.

>>28925819
You seem to be correct, as after the second drain, more water came in (still it was about 3 liters at most) and there was no coolant light.

>>28925602
I don't have a radiator cap (BMW), just the expansion cap tank and I decided that an hour is good enough, after 1.5 hours the needle still wasn't touching blue.

>>28925779
>taking your car to wal-fucking-mart
>taking your car back to wal-fucking-mart after they fucked it up the first time
buy a torque wrench

I'm retarded, and after flushing the cooling system with distilled water, I realized I bought ready-mix coolant instead of concentrate to make a 50/50 mix, like it's recommended by BMW. I can't exactly drain the entire system, so is it okay to mix the distilled water + ready mix coolant and top it off over the next few days with concentrate while the air is still coming out?

>>28926032
You'll be slightly below spec on corrosion inhibitors and your water will freeze closer to 32/0 than it is supposed to but you won't damage anything.

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How do I diagnose where a coolant leak is coming from?

>>28927545
There is a special dye that when used with a UV light and some goggles you can see were its coming from. This doesn't work if you have a head gasket issue.

>>28927545
U can also clean it a bit and then run it and look for coolant steaming out. Sometimes the radiator itself leaks causing stains like that, sometimes its spraying from elsewhere. If it's a shitbox or work truck you can try "bars leaks" but many people hate it because it could block coolant passages.

>>28927545
Go to AutoZone and rent the pressure tester

>>28925521
>I’d definitely try to rule out the IACV before moving on though, since your symptoms line up really well with it not opening under load.

>>28924959 (Me)
>The four screws holding the IACV to the throttle body are also seized, and I can't get an impact screwdriver in there (let alone a hammer to hit it with).

By some miraculous combination of sheer brute force, vice grips, and possibly WD-40, I managed to get all four of those screws off.
And what do you know? The IACV *was* kinda stuck.
Sprayed carb cleaner, brushed & wiped off what I could, then used a flathead screwdriver to press the wall of the valve until it moved. Sprayed more carb cleaner and tried to wipe out the innards with a pipe cleaner. Will check it again on Wednesday, but hopefully that freed it up.
(Also need to get replacement hex bolts for those four JIS screws; one of the four tried to strip on me, even with a JIS tip...)

The nice bonus in all this is that I got to clean a shitload of carbon off the throttle plate & tube, so now my gas pedal shouldn't have moments where it sticks anymore.


>>28925121
On my Yoder, there are coolant lines that run through the IAC housing so you'll want some hose clamps or a catch pan underneath

Yeah, I *totally* didn't kinda forget to do this and let a bunch of coolant drain out the bottom of the engine bay...totally....
Relatedly, is it bad to leave a big void/air-bubble in the coolant lines, or do I need to pour a bit into the hoses? (To put it another way: do bubbles in the coolant find their way out as the engine cranks & runs?)
Also also, the coolant was like a yellow/green color, and I feel like I've heard that Japanese cars should actually use red coolant instead? But maybe I'm thinking of ATF, or that the color is the other-way around.

>>28928467
Your water pump is going to push out the bubbles. Run it for like 15 minutes with your overflow cap off, then check your levels.

Dont forget to make sure the little gasket is still there when you put the IAC back on

>>28928467
Asian formula is usually red, yeah

>>28929552
Do I need to replace all my coolant immediately then, or is it not that big of a deal?

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I replaced the purge valve for the second time. The RS is notorious for blowing them, but I'm just swapping parts since I don't have access to an evap machine. I replaced everything they recommend so i'm stumped after this.

>fuel hose + cap, (broken).
>evap canister
>purge valve

Throwing some very small evap leak code. Might try buying an evap machine or taking it to the stealership.

Also bought brake pads, began taking them off. But don't have the ratchet tool to push all 4 cylinders back in at the same time. Used to cheaper brakes. So put them back on since they still had like 20% left.

>had constant battery drain issues with my Subaru legacy, would have to jump start it every morning
>turns out it was from a retarded design decision where the dcm module would constantly try to connect to a defunct 3g network, even when the car was off
>dealership said it was under warranty over the phone, then said it wasn't when I drove there
>instead of fixing it they just pulled the fuse for it, which stops the battery drain because it disabled the module BUT also kills my front speakers
>whatever, they didn't charge me and car runs, that's all I care about
>another, smaller shop I go to said he can do some sort of circuitry work to stop the dcm module and still give me my speakers back for ~$350, but I never bothered to get that repair done
Aside from the slight hassle is there anything wrong with me just inserting the fuse when I drive and pulling it whenever I park? Just want to make sure that such a practice won't cause any more issues.

>>28929611
Immediately? Nah. Before winter comes around again maybe

>>28929897
What happens if you just unplug the DCM? Not the fuse, but the connector where power enters that module. If you dont lose anything you actually use by doing that, thats what I would do.

If you want to fix it and still have the module powered on, locate an ignition power wire, run a fuse off ot it to POWER IN on the module. I bet thats the $350 fix that the dealership would do.

>>28930165
>What happens if you just unplug the DCM?
No fucking clue where that is or how to reach it. I only know the fuse box because it's easy to get too. I didn't think that was an option because neither the dealership or the small shop listed exclusively disconnecting the dcm as an option.

>>28929931
Oh, I'm Florida.
Winter isn't really a thing here.
February only had a single hard freeze, and it was the first one we've had in a few years.

>>28930170
Quick search shows it behind the middle dash panel right underneath your screen.

There is a wire harness that you can plug in whete the DCM is plugged in now. If you google "Suburu DCM bypass harness" there's lots of $40 solutions.

https://youtu.be/h-fS1BwIk8g?si=9j0ngIymZK2FrQaR

>>28930244
I would do it on the next 90 days then

>>28930250
Huh that's very helpful, thanks. Just need to make sure that I find one for Legacy specifically.

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chinkshit sales coming

>>28930851
I was going to point out you can get basically the same thing at Harbor Freight for a few bucks less but noticed the euro symbol. derp, its early here.

Does the euro zone have a harbor freight equivalent?

>>28930996
>Does the euro zone have a harbor freight equivalent?
No, but they probably sell the same product, like exact same chinkshit product in generic autoparts stores for 80 bucks

>>28931004
I'm sure they do. Likely made in the same factory that just changes out molds, plastic colors, or sometimes just a different stick on label.

I hope that anon realizes they're not accurate and just gets you in the ballpark for torque and shouldn't be used for anything other than "good enough". Even the older style mechanical torque wrenches are superior despite their low price.

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>>28931005
>Even the older style mechanical torque wrenches are superior despite their low price.
deflection torque wrenches are indeed superior
>dont need to keep them in a bulky special snowflake case
>don't need batteries or to be kept away from oil
>can drop them, use them in reverse
>calibration? just bend the needle back to zero lol
>shit is like $12, not $120

a digital is more precise when it's accurate, you wouldn't want to use these on inch-lbs stuff for example but for most important parts of a car this ol bastard is all you need.

>>28931005
torque test channel got the cheapest digital adapter on amazog, and it had some 1-3 % accuracy

>>28931110
Yeah, and the $15 mechanical torque wrenches at harbor freight have good accuracy too. For the average /o/ wrencher, I'd wager the traditional mechanical ones are simply easier to use that try to read that digital screen and oops 'it can't fit there' sorta shit. Thats mostly why I don't think shade tree mechanics shouldn't be getting the in-line ones.

>>28931086
>you wouldn't want to use these on inch-lbs stuff for example
I have a 1/4" drive one that does inch pounds. You can totally use a small one for small things

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New fuel pump in
While I'm back here I'm pulling the fuel sending unit to throw a multimeter on it, it's been reading 2 gallons lower than it should for years but is getting closer to 3-4 gallons off now.

Can /o/ help me troubleshoot a weird noise coming out of my v8 chally?
When I push the clutch in and shift from 1st to second it has a very faint grinding noise, like what you'd hear if you didn't use the clutch at all but like a tenth of the sound. It doesn't make a sound when I'm at a stop at all. The second I release the clutch the sound stops.
There's also a faint screech sound when I'm backing up slowly, not fully releasing the clutch.
I know it's transmission related but not sure if it's the synchros or the clutch.
I just recently had it looked at for another reason and they said the fluid looked good and it was topped off so I don't think it's low on fluid either.

>>28931527
Throwout bearing?
Driveshaft center support bearing is also a difficult diagnosis usually but idk if challenger has one of those

>>28931531
they do have one but the throwout bearing sounds more apt. thanks anon.

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got a low mileage 2003 ford focus back up and running after a ton of work to it. im trying to find these two brackets, but can't find a part number anywhere. it is just two simple brackets. the first (which can still mostly be seen) is a bracket connected to the bottom of the block and the second (which is 95% gone) holds the bottom of the cat and connects to the first bracket.

My AC appears to be acting up. Do you guys do your own AC recharges? I am pretty mechanically inclined, but would need to buy the hoses and stuff. As opposed to just taking it to a shop, paying some money and getting it charged.

I tried those refill bottles, but those didn't work for me.

>>28923394
These are the guys getting hired to do pretty much everything in the west now btw lads, enjoy the decline.

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Bought a 2009 street triple yesterday for 2500 then rode it home 80 miles, and today fixed most things wrong with it, which wasn't much.
The throttle was sticking which was from the throttle assembly just being too close to the end of the handlebars so the bar ends were clamping down on it. While I did that I also adjusted the throttle play to tighten it up a bit.
The brake fluid looked like dark caramel so I did the front and back brakes
The brake light switch for the front brakes wasn't working cause a connector was snapped off for some reason, ordered another one that'll be here tuesday.
Next on the list is new tires cause these are ten years old even if they look new, and some new turn signals cause these are held on by electrical tape but they work so I'm putting it off.

>>28934834
That is a very cool bike for 2500. I remember wanting a daytona 675 for a while. Is there any unusual bullshit about those bikes mechanically? Like ducati desmo valves that need adjustment every 5 miles, or BMW driveshaft splines that eat themselves?

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Friendly reminder to consider using dielectric grease on the boot of the coils or things will get stuck when you need to remove them to replace spark plugs and coils.
Also didn't help that the dealership I took my bike in for service 15k miles ago replaced my spark plug but reused the coils that originally came with the bike.
Hell of a time to get the center metal terminal, that connects to the spark plug, out so I can use my air compressor to eject the torn off boot.

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gay muffler

>>28935131
>ONE 1 I
>TWO 2 II
>THREE 3 III
>FOUR 4 IIII
Kek it's the rosetta stone of coils

>>28935550
Kek, I just didn’t want to mix them up and my hand writing is atrocious and being frustrated with the torn boots I expected to be confused which coil and spark plugs were paired together when I finally got them out.

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It’s never been more over than it currently is bros…

Are there engine specific manuals that have advanced service/repair instructions and torquings or is this some bullshit that I need to sift through fuddlore Facebook posts and decade old forums to figure out?

>>28935700
I don't think torque specs will unfuck your engine. I think you have a coolant leak into the oil.

>have to change fuel pump
Job's already going shitty. One of the carpet tie-down screws was stripped from the PO being a retarded faggot. No longer sold by OEM (or out of stock?) Used are $20 and still look like shit. I'll find a similar length bolt and slap a washer on top of it I guess...Then half of the screws for the gasoline tank cover plate are missing. Oh great, this job has been done before and it was probably botched. I really hope they used an oem-like pump and didn't buy something third party and crimp on connectors.
>Then I need to replace master brake cylinder grommets
I could replace the whole thing but I'm trying to avoid bleeding the brakes. I'm lazy.

>>28935709
Yeah big dog, gotta take that bitch apart in order to stop that from happening. But when it’s time to put it together I’d like to do it properly so I don’t have to do it a second time.

>>28935732
Oh you're gonna try to fix it altogether. Uhh, Haynes Manuals or Chilton Manuals are probably your best bet. Otherwise, maybe try asking a few AIs to get that info for you, it'll trawl the old forum posts for you.

>>28935750
Cheers, will prolly blog post about the ordeal this weekend

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>>28935754
Good luck, fren. Sometimes the best projects are "I have no fucking idea what i'm doing" then by the end of it, you're a boomer sage telling some sperg exactly how to do it step by step.

>>28935094
not that I know of. I looked into the street triples, gixxers, and cbrs. I know the street triple had a stator recall but that's it.

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I'm back >>28931438

After doing the pump and filter the 2000 Honda Prelude started perfectly and idled for a few minutes before cutting out, started again and died 30 seconds later. Checking the psi of the system had it running high so I replaced the fuel pressure regulator.
Starter runs, fuel pump primes to above 40 psi but It just won't start. Priming a bunch or being on the gas at all doesn't make a difference.
I put the original fuel pressure regulator back in assuming the new one was bad, but it still won't start, as if it isn't getting fuel.

I'm going off a manual and blocked fuel return hose is one of the only things left. I was assuming this isn't the case as my tank/system was totally clean.
Would air in the system somewhere be a possibility? I didn't see anything about bleeding the system or preparing it other than letting it prime twice.

Any ideas?

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i got a 1987 two stroke boat motor that needs fuel, i can get that premium gas for it but it needs an oil additive. i live a long way from civilized country so i have limited access. im sure 5w30 doesn't burn clean, but could i maybe use olive oil, or maybe something lighter?
sorry i cant remember the brand and cant get a photo of the engine since i broke my back two days ago and i cant go down and lift the boat over to show the engine.
i think its a jhonson brand motor from 198X maybe 2-4 hp.
im sure it will run on spit and beer but i wanna keep it for a while.

>>28933733
It's also starting to spell really bad/musty. Almost thought I was spelling rank dry piss for a second. The focus AC may be known for this from a view forum threads

>>28935700
if you can get your hands on the factory service manual you're all set. otherwise, chilton or hayes manuals as that anon said. if nothing else...i dunno :\
>>28933733
i bought a cheap-ish vevor vacuum pump and a manifold gauge set, a set of scales, and used a wire coathanger to hold the refrigerant can upside down so i could weigh how much refrigerant went in. it was pretty satisfying to do.

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I'm looking at a second gen tacoma, haven't seen it in person yet. How bad does this frame rust look, I have no idea how to judge these things. Is it falling apart or just dirty?

>>28936734
Well, after going over everything I touched, and testing for continuity and resistances in all the fuel system relays/connectors and found nothing wrong.
Tested resistance of the ignition coil and both windings were far below expected ranges, wasn't expecting that was I replaced that coil 4 years ago.

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The time has finally come to tear this bitch open, got the air manifold off and next up is the alternator. I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t a little nervous about opening the engine but I guess it can’t get more fucked than it already is. Anyone have any tips on cleaning all the oil/coolant sludge out of it?

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Got the alternator off and the top opened up, but I’ve run into a problem. I have to take the timing chain/cover off but that’s where the engine mount is! Since this is going to be a multi weekend project would I be safe to let it rest on some jackstands since I don’t really want to leave my jack out in the weather

>>28939241
It looks fine to me, no obvious holes or anything. Bring a screwdriver and poke around under there though. Are you in a rusty state?

>>28939834
Well, new ignition coil didn't fix anything.
Can only thing distributor or ECU. Started to tear down the dizzy to get to the ignition control module in it, fuck ass rotor doesn't appear to have a set screw holding it in. Always something man.

I'm looking to buy impact wrenches since I don't have any, starting to get more involved with wrenching on my car (need to change out suspension stuff eventually) and motorbike.
Does it make sense to buy a single mid range torque or have two, one low end and one mid range impact drivers?
Just considering having the two because of size and weight if I do need to get to something. Or should I just buy the one mid range and be happy with that?

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>>28941738
I personally got a high end torque (fuel).
Uses:
Harmonic balancer bolts
Suspension
Wheels

It's the older model and huge, so doesn't fit in tight spaces, but usually works for my purposes.

I also have an electric ratchet (fuel), which I pair with a breaker bar/regular ratchet if needed. But I generally just go the a regular hand ratchet.

If working in interior, I use a m12 fuel little driver that has impact functions and use the little hex to 1/4 or 3/8 adapters. So no need to have a mid range driver unless you are an actual mechanic.

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>>28941738
I like watching this guy's channel as he test various power tools and hand tools:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yu1VGp-HSZs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PU_V1btloA

I personally got the Dewalt DCF921 with a battery and charger kit about a year or 2 ago, it was on clearance for a bit over 50% off. In that first link it compared all of Dewalt's impact wrenches and how much each model's peak torque was tested in his setup. And so far I haven't had to use my larger DCF891 torque wrench and I really like the smaller profile of the 921 to reach in difficult confined spaces, I am able to consistently take off my 4runner's lug nuts, I have replaced the front and rear strut suspension, I have replaced my lower ball joints, I have replaced my rear lower and upper control arms and the DCF921 was able to handle these job with ease.
I have also removed my motorcycle's rear axle nut with the DCF921 just fine.
I personally would recommend you get a smaller profile impact wrench from any brand that can output up to 300ft/lbs(minimum) of loosening/breaking torque at the very least and also whichever fits your budget constraints.

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Did my break in 500 mile oil change and installed the TOYOTA brand TOYOTA skid plates. I’ll slap on the rear diff plate later this week

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>>28942677
Got it on. Installing the brackets around the rear axel were a bitch

>>28916988
Find a video and follow it, that's literally what pros do when they aren't sure about something, and don't let some retard who barely knows what a wrench is himself give you shit for doing so
>t. professional poorfag wagie truck mechanic

>>28911006
my subaru has this neutral switch to know when its in gear or not and apparently ever since i've gotten the car its been broke aka the car thought it was in gear the whole time. Coming to a stop the rpms would bounce and not really be steady, and if restarted while hot it would sometimes not want to run. it got real bad when it actually died a few times coming to a stop. this whole time i was cleaning the maf and tb and then i decided to replace the tb, maf, map, coils, plugs, fuel pump assembly, gas pedal and none of it helped. I told all of this to chatgpt and it mentioned the switch. I didn't get a code ever but I just replaced the switch and its like completely fixed and idles great im wondering if its why the previous owner got rid of it cause it was a big difference

My 2002 Chevy Blazer only fully ignites if I unlock it with the FOB (even if it's unlocked), what could be the issue?

>>28911006
that video was disappointing

>>28949136
>blazer
>fully ignites

>took half of the engine apart
>didn't sort the bolts, just kind of threw them together in one box
>the service manual doesn't say the bolt sizes for each part
Uh oh

>>28949466
Just use your emotions. It's usually obvious if it's the wrong bolt. You'll be fine bud.

Anyone decent with car audio? Upgrading some Ford OEM speakers the internet basically suggests is a night and day difference since Ford has never had decent speakers from the factory. Also considering adding a subwoofer from crutchfield, a little all in 1 unit.

Should I get the door speakers and see if I'm content with the new sound quality, or just bite the cock and order a $480 subwoofer setup and be done with it?

I got some rusty ass heat shields on my engine. How should I clean it? I'm figuring just some wire brushing but then how to I stop it just rusting right back up?

>>28951515
find a shop that can ceramic powder coat it, iirc it's what oems use on manifolds and it lasts a very very long time

>>28940887
ECU and all relays were clean all the wiring checked out perfect.
Rebuilt the distributor with a new Ignition Control Module and it fired right up.

Thanks for visiting my live journal.

>>28951889
<3

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cracked open the q50 again after work. this time I'm deleting the air to water system to install the Z1 Air to Air intercooler kit.

>>28911006
Is there any tutorials or other notes on Mazda keyless access? It just doesn't work but I know that it has to. Maybe some safety thing that can be reset.

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What do you think of my plugs? Its a 94 mr2 turbo, been sitting a long time.

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another night wrenching. I'm on the backside of being done now with the air-to-air IC install. Hopefully next pic is all buttoned up.

>>28953712
>bmw model T-800

>>28953759
>bmw
>z1 intercoolers
>nissan sticker on engine ecu
hmm

I need to swap some connectors on a wire harness and would like the proper clips(? The plastic bits that surround the connections and click together) how do I find the right ones, are they standardized or is it just guessing

>>28954259
Read the part number, then yank them out of equivalents in the junkyard.

>>28911360
That isn't a mcphearson strut you fucking retard nocar.

>Trunk close assist on my Deville died on me yesterday.
>It's the motor and not the fuse.
>Right before 3 days straight of thunderstorms.

Fuck me, bros. I don't care about $90 for the new part, but I swear I'm going to have to bail out water from the spare tire well.

>>28920637
The fact that you can't tell if this is a joke or not is a testament to the state of this website.

>>28953691
>been sitting a long time
then the plugs are meaningless. drive it hard for 30 minutes then check the plugs. Those plugs look like it's been idling in the driveway.

>>28911006

My Subaru is nearing 150,000 miles and I was thinking it might be a good time to service the transmission.

Is it a good idea and if so what should I do?

>>28954830
Fluid and filter.

>>28954830
don't fuck with it, most transmissions have lifetime fluid. if you change it out or flush it you'll start having transmissions problems probably instantly.

First time trying to self diagnose a check engine light. Fucking engine cap wasn't screwed in right. Guess I'm basically retarded.

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Not really wrenching, just basic maintenance.
Got back from a 2400km trip without any leaks from the top or front mains so I was pretty stoked.

>>28956032
>lifetime fluid
All fluids are lifetime fluids. If not changed or filled, they will last the lifetime of the system.

>>28956124
Fucking engine cap gets me every time.

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i changed the spark plugs today (with anti seize on the threads and silicon fat on the insulator)
while the car was in warranty i only visited authorized repair shops
paid a huge extra for it
and what do i see today? they killed one of the clips of the spark coils
of course they said nothing back then
fucking bunch of bastards

at least it worked and i didn't destroy my engine

I have an automatic gearbox where the fluid level is set by overflow. How do I know when the level is correct? Let’s say I add more fluid, it will obviously overflow, but after that should it keep flowing steadily or do I wait until it slows down to a drip?

>>28957949
Lookup the repair manual for your equipment drain and fill procedures are usually covered with the details you are looking for.

>>28957949
It's correct when it over flows you fool. Don't over think this.

>>28957949
Sometimes it can overflow if youre filling too quickly so another slow pump can confirm your at the top.
Make sure you have the right fill plug via reference pictures. Use www dot charm.li if you dont have a manual.
Make sure you have the right fluid. Ive seen a lot of auto parts stores selling gear oil marked "not safe for synchromesh transmissions" as transmission fluid.

>>28958166
>linkrel
NTA but tysm

>>28957695
I had to change my wheel bearings today because whichever dumbass did them last decided they didn't need seals on the inboard side. And probably the same guy damaged the bore of one of the knuckles. And then my TRW balljoints came with soft nuts that stripped before getting to 60ftlbs. But it's all good now.

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>99 F350 has a bunch of electrical stuff not working
>tear apart the fuse box
>waste hours cleaning the corrosion off
>find picrel
>another pin breaks off while cleaning it
>go to the junkyard and pull a fuse box from a '01 f150
>repin it to match how it came in my truck
>Windows, chime, and wipers work now
We're so back

>>28958654
Sucks. But did you find and fix the water leak that caused that mess?

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Happy Sunday :-)

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My sway bar end links are toast. $10.17 ea x2 for Moog from Rock Auto + shipping = $33. Auto Zone sells Duralast Gold for $65 ea = $130 total. Who the fuck is paying 4x more? How does Auto Zone still exist?

>>28959517
People who need it today or don't know about Rockauto, which is a surprising amount, actually. A lot of people I've told about it used amazon exclusively to buy unbranded chinese garbage.

On the topic, they're opening an Oreilly's in town and I'm not even excited because I realized I never buy parts from a store and get most of my fluids and supplies at Home Depot or Walmart.

>>28959577
The only time I'm in an O'reiley's is to take advantage of their loaner tools for odd suspension jobs.

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Not difficult, but cramped.

>>28927545
update
>cold weather, puddle under the car every morning
>level below low mark
>Buy UV dye to find where it's coming from
>hot weather comes, Top it up, take it for a spin
>next morning: bone dry under the car, level still at max
i don't get it

>>28953712
>that fucking rats nest of hoses and wires
Why would anyone do that to themselves.

>>28920903
>took about 6 hours

respect. assuming you did that shit manually and not with some futuristic ai-robot

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she's pretty much ready for tuning. Leaving the bumper cover off in case of boost leaks though. If I had leaks then the couplers would be impossible to reach on some of them.

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Partially re-capped my stereo amp (all the red ones) to fix a crackly left channel. One capacitor in the left channel was out of spec.

Put it back in, still crackles.

Swapped out the left channel chip for one from a parts amp.

Still crackles.

I'm thinking it's just a blown door speaker at this point. Dumb. At least I'm sort of making progress.
Pro-tip to anyone removing through-pin chips with 30yo solder:
Tin again with fresh leaded solder
Mask all around the component with foil tape
Hot air on a low setting moving around for like 5 minutes straight before going in for the final melt

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>>28961569
At least it didn't seem to make a difference that the replacement chip was made in singapore and has different numbers on it.

>>28961569
Did you try cleaning the board? Intermittent faults to ground or connecting other bits can crackle.

Caps won't do much other than either fail to ground or fail to provide full juice and volume. Well, I guess smoothing too, but usually not an issue.

Pro-tip. You want to heat anything in an area as quick as you can to not spread the heat around. You just want it below burning the board temps. Sticking a thin screwdriver under the chip and heating on high for less than 20 seconds should have got you going without chancing anything around the chip.

-t. did this shit a million times on converting 1970's and 80's mainframe keyboards to work with modern computers.

Also, where is the potentiometer to adjust +/- on your Channel 4?

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>>28962417
>heat anything as fast as possible
>20 seconds
In a perfect world yeah. Maybe it was more like 1 minute rather than 5. But it felt like a long time. The existing solder was really difficult to melt. I had to dilute it with more fresh solder first to get it to melt reliably. Also didnt help that my latest solder wick from an off-brand is shit unless doused in flux. It seems high quality equipment really pays off in board repair.
I did protect everything in the area with foil tape, and only bubbled/burnt a few mm^2 of the bare resin of the board.
>no pot on woofer channel
Idk, this is from a merc R129 SL. Supposedly these amps were also used on ZR-1 vettes. I have another from a W140 S class that has way more channels, picrel, also doesnt have one for woofer channel.
Other than servicing audio equipment for ages, is there anywhere I can go to learn what these parts are all doing? Obv the chips are proprietary but what are the adjustable pots for? Relative volume of each channel?
Electronics stuff is wizardry to most gearheads.

>>28962469
The best place to learn this kind of thing is headphone amp forums. The pots are mostly to balance the +/- voltages so you get equal forward and back movement on the cones to make the sound. They may have left out the pot on the sub channel for current concerns but you can just slap something beefier in there, anyway. You can figure out all the proper adjustments with a regular multimeter.

The chips are just little 8 bit distributors. It saves making a PNP/NPN bridge or anything. You can find any new equivalents on Mouser or Digikey.

>>28962508
Ty amp wizard

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How do i remove this?

>>28963070
Brake cleaner, a lot of it.
There was also some product made specifically for this that my wife bought me one time and made me scrub the driveway with, it was surprisingly effective, the oil stains vanished like they weren't even there.

>>28963070
>>28963073

Kitty litter is excellent if you let it sit, too.

>>28963070
If theyve sat there for any real time over a day, theyre not gonna come out all the way.

>>28963070
gasoline and maybe mash on it with a broom

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i didnt like my setup re-using the CCRM, i bit the bullet and ordered a timing cover, eccentric, pump, carby gas tank, sending unit and vent

cant find a bendy torque wrench anywhere, when i do i can get my dana 35 assembled and spend another weekend at the field

VW TDI PD engine needs a new timing belt, I've done a few but this looks like a nightmare to do without a proper lift. Do people really just sit a trolley jack under the engine? Sounds like a recipe for disaster

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>Get new relay in today to complete my fog light upgrade on the 2005 Ranger since the new Hooke bumper came with them
>Already have the correct connectors wired to the new lights to plug into the factory fog option
>Put in a new center bezel with a factory fog lamp switch that matches my trim and color
>Triple check relay and fuse placement because of the stupid mirrored fuse box cover
>Everything looks good
>Turn key
>Press button
>Button lights up red
>No lights...
>Check voltage at fuse with switch pressed
>12VDC
>At light connectors
>12VDC
>At wires on light side of connectors
>12VDC
>Either the lights are blown or the voltage is reversed
>Rig it up backwards with some alligator test clips
>Light comes on
>With red going to black and black going to red from the light to the connector splice that plugs into the harness

Fucking Chinesium BULLSHIT!

>>28958989
I found it but have yet to fix it. It's the windshield leaking, common on early super duties. I'll get it replaced once I get a rock chip or crack in it

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I again have a floor on my car. I know the welds are anything but pretty, but at least I have a floor.
New seat rails too, now I'm off to fix the wiring harness that caught fire when welding and it should be off to the streets.

How do I safely clean an alternator that's full of sludge?

>>28966477
Most alternators are a common design with differences in the case mount points and pulley only. You can take them apart if you need to and there are YouTube tutorials to do so. To clean it cheaply you can use some diesel and a brass toothbrush from harbor freight

>>28966315
Those are indeed grotesque. You could always grind them. Oh well, only way to get better is to do it.

>>28966689
the welds dont bother me as much as the way he's boxing in the floor tub to the rocker.

>>28966315
instead of filling 1/4" gaps maybe beat it down with a hammer and close the seam as you move down the panel

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>need wheel hub and bearing for my Infiniti
>want to keep it OEM
>call local steelership and they say they have one $350
>show up and it's now $450
>"oh that's the online price"
>....
>go online and find it for 230 OEM
They think I'm retarded? Fucking stealerships.

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My rock auto package is in FedEx purgatory :-(

>>28967089
>They think I'm retarded?
Well, you did call a dealership about a part...

>>28967325
What engine is that?
Kinda looks a like an older Toyota from the image.

>>28966810
The floor tub originally was boxed in like that, but it had all rusted to fuck with absolutely nothing left.
Sure it wasn't as grotesque looking originally, but the idea was the same.
>>28966813
If you mean the rear footwell where the flat plate meets the original floor, it's completely welded shut from the underside, those fat tacks were there just yo keep it in place somewhat.

After a full fuckin week of wrestling i was able to drill out a stripped m10 triple square on my q5 cv axle. THANK GOD!

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>>28934834
Been about a month since I bought this bike, so far had to buy new turn signals, a stator, and r/r.
Had it not want to start on me twice with a new battery and once I cracked the crank case open it made a lot of sense as to why the battery kept draining out.

Removing the r/r was the biggest pain in the ass cause I had to disconnect the rear shock from the top and move it out of the way just to reach a bolt on the bracket.

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Well

I put some flowers in my engine block planter, does that count?

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Takin care a bizness

>>28966477
Degreaser + garden hose

Are there you-pull-it junkyards within a day's driving distance of NYC? Google search is giving me regular junkyards no matter what I search, and even the LKQ in all adjacent states seems to not be you-pull-it based on their google reviews.
Car-Part.com is kind of a pain to deal with, I've called 4 different junkyards but the stock is always old/no longer there. I don't think they update it ever and Car-Part doesn't show you how old the listing is.
Looking for black hood/hatch/seats for a Mini R53...

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I have been watching YouTube videos of this machine and people seem to like it. Just found a local place that does mount/balance for $35 on loose sets though. Decisions, decisions.

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Ordered these reproduction decals online and I'm happy with how they turned out. The white one the ebay seller actually custom made for me for only $12, and it looks just like the original.

>>28949144
Link it, please, hon.

>>28971784
Harry's U-Pull-It

Might be unironically easier to look into freight shipping from another salvage yard off car-part.com

>>28972237
Why bother? A shop is cheap as hell and will do it in 10 minutes. That's mini-lathe money.

>>28972579
When I was living in the inner city, I'd go to the Mexicans who'd do a loose set for $60. Then I moved to the suburbs and everyone wants $100+. The guy that's $35 is a half hour drive from me. If he didn't exist, I'd probably buy the tire machine. After 4-5 jobs you break even.

>>28972590
Set for 60 is good best I got from mexicans was 60 but that was back in 2014 in Los Angeles. Theyre probably asking for more now to pay immigration lawyers and inflation.
My cost saving strategy has been to just buy a cheap second set of wheels so I dont need to remount tires when its time for snow season. Or just suck it up and deal with all seasons (in NYC now, snow is not super bad)
Having your own tire machine and having the skill is cool though. Like a welder it should easily last long enough to pay itself off. If you have the space there's worse toys to blow money on.
I know racers who have good results with just the cheap bubble balancer and just aluminum taping wheel weights to the inside of the barrel.

>>28972237
Just get irons for $70, you aren't breaking beads without air. There are a couple different tools but I just jack up the car on top of the tire to break it.

>>28972566
TY
Harry's website at least says the date the listing was last updated which is super nice and should be on car-part imo.

i have to do wheel bearings in BOTH my cars and i'm not looking forward to doing it

>>28973239
You aren't looking forward to buying them or regreasing them? Because repairing is pretty simple AFAIC.

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wrenchlet here. I wanted to learn manual so I decided to buy a fixer upper that I wouldn't mind grinding the gears on until I can shift properly. I found a 2007 nissan versa SL with about 195k miles on it and an extra set of wheels for $500. It does need a lot of work though...

The good:
>Starts and runs
>Engine sounds good, no white smoke or oil leaks
>Body in good shape for a 20 year old car and not rusted out completely
>Got in gear

The bad:
>Battery is no good, needed a jump to start and died immediately after
>Clutch is fucked, pedal stuck to the ground
>engine light for a O2 sensor

I got in a little over my head here but I'm determined to get her running again for my own sense of accomplishment and not because the car is worth fixing. I have done some diagnostics and the problem with the clutch is the slave cylinder sprung a leak. I was hoping it was the master cylinder cause it would've been an easy fix but it was not. I did not realize that replacing the slave cylinder means taking out the transmission, but after watching every youtube video I could find I feel pretty confident to take a stab at it. I was worried because the service manual says to hoist the engine to do that but a youtube video I saw he just used a bottle jack and 4x4 to prop it up.

I've been slowly taking things apart over the course of the past week after work. I just managed to get the CV axles off which was a huge bitch because all the bolts in the suspension are seized to fuck. I pulled my shoulder a bit trying to reef them out and used two bottles of penetrating fluid to try to get all these bolts to unseize. I admitted defeat and bought an air impact wrench which just zips them out no problem. I got my clutch kit yesterday (might as well replace everything while I have it apart) and I'm hoping to at least get the transmission off, parts replaced, and transmission back on for this weekend. worried about getting the CV axles back on but I'll worry about that later.

>>28973279
>but a youtube video I saw he just used a bottle jack and 4x4 to prop it up
that could fuck up the oil pan and starve your engine; follow the service manual. The alternator might be fucked FYI. Also try not to ghetto up your driveway with oil stains

>>28973279
Ya whoever invented internal slave cylinders needs to get necked.

If youre in the states you can rent an overhead engine support bar. I see them on sale at amazon for super cheap as well, but its something you rarely need. Itll let you keep the engine lifted while you remove all the engine mounts to eventually disconnect the trans.

Also stay safe bro. Clutch jobs on the floor are notoriously shitty.

>Friday
>no posts
>no new thread
does anyone even wrench here anymore?

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>>28974823
no we're smoking wide moon rocks little armstrong picked up lit from a brush fire from the challanger disaster out of a jim dean decanter.

>>28974823
We all got lives/wives. Saturday we wrench

>>28974823
Today, I restored 2 hundred+ year old watches for my best friend, had an indoor BBQ, and sexted with my gf. I got rained out from wrenching.

Got two oil changes to do tomorrow if the weather holds. Then, maybe work on trunk drain problems.

>>28974823
my cars are not so unreliable that they need repair every week.

Oil changes are due. So I'll be doing that and washing cars.

Also, my windshield washer nozzles got clogged from using old fluid. So need to try to clean that out.

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Is this kind of tool really useful for bleeding the cooling system? What happens if I just use a regular funnel and properly use the bleed screws?

>>28975539
It's useful I guess, but you don't really need it. You can just do it with a regular funnel like you said.
Fill up the system, let the engine idle to let out any major pockets of air, fill to the recommended level, close the cap and go for a drive. Then let it cool down and top up the coolant once more to the recommended level. Should be perfect after that.

>>28975539
its only important if your upper-hose has bleeding issues, like if its higher than the cap, which would trap an air pocket.
which would cause breif overheating issues or overflowing out of the resevoir.
if your caps the higjest point its worth nothing to you.

I don't know why I agreed to replace some tiny piece of coolant line that burst in my uncle's F250, but I did and what a pain it was. It wasn't even that bad objectively, but having to climb onto the vehicle, brace myself with one arm most of the time, and spend so long on such an otherwise simple repair reminds me why I hate new cars and shouldn't work on them. The 6.7 powerstroke is ridiculous.

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I did it bros, the tranny is out and boy was it heavy as fuck. the slave cylinder was fucked and the rubber gasket was completely gone. I'm surprised I could get in gear at all. been trying to clean the damn thing but I can't get all the gunk, the rubber broke down and mixed with the clutch dust so it's pretty stubborn. I unloaded 3 cans of brake cleaner into it and wire brushed off the sludge but I can't seem to get the books and crannies completely clear. you think this is clean enough or should I keep trying? hoping to replace the clutch and get it back in before sundown. I assemble the rest of the car tomorrow. honestly it's been more frustrating trying to break the rusty bolts than challenging. fingers crossed she'll drive again

>>28973311
>>28973613
I decided to chance it and use the bottle jack. The oil pan is steel and I had a long enough 4x4 that could distribute the load to the frame. seems to be pretty sturdy and isn't sagging

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>>28975911
a pic before I cleaned it

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Big milestone today, got the engine out of my bus after blowing it up on a road trip. Swapping it out with a newer turbo 671, which will take a little bit of shoe-horning since the new motor I got has the blower and turbo on the opposite side as the one I pulled out, but shouldn't be too bad.
>>28975911
Yeah, that's plenty clean enough. Grime in the bellhousing won't effect anything unless it's so bad that it's dripping onto your clutch. Did you end up getting it back in before sundown?

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cleaning underseal of my car to clean the rust.. I fuckin hate bodywork.
I am done for now because I ran out of wd40 to coat the bare metal so it doesnt rust more.
>Inb4 why not just seal it immediately?
I want to do few passes with sandblaster to make sure as much rust is gone. I dont have a compressor that is fit for continuous work so I am removing most of the underseal with wirewheel so there is less to sandblast.
And i couldnt find someone to clean the underside because, they either demand I basically bring a bare chassis or they are far away and my body guy is picky and wont take cleaning jobs.

Putting a lot of efford in a car that i like but thinking more and more about selling.
But hey i can be a stubborn bastard and i want it roadworthy again.

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>>28973112
aand she's done for now. New tranny filter and new rotors are on. Struts are next when I can afford them and knuckle bushings when I can find them